US3014502A - Pile fabric and its method of manufacture - Google Patents

Description

Dec. 26, r1961 L. M. VALENTINE PILE FABRIC AND ITS .METHOD OF' /MANUFACTURE 'Filed .June .12, 1959 5 Sheets-Sheet 1 B55 BB HM6545Z/ MU wwwwwwww TN ff+t+t+f mE Z333 VM wwwwwwww ..N.M. on o m o ons M 0 s a .7 /987 W W 6 wm 5 Kani, A 4 M635 Y m 3 unmsfysz/ B 2 w A f M3523 s 0 w L r t M X: xfl D o ooo oo wm o o MM E000 ooo w a W M 2 E C D l W Q .p x xox o F ooo ooo wn o o o ooo oo n O O MV1/UV 2 p `\\.\W\\\\\\\ P M R 7C N E ma 4P p M W u D .u mw E X e. h

i7' 7017/75 YS Dec. 26, 1961 l.. M. VALENTINE 3,014,502

PILE FABRIC AND ITS METHOD 0F MANUFACTURE Filed June l2, 1959 3 Sheets-Sheet 2 BSE 3 Sheets-Sheet 3 Dec. 2.6, 1961 L. M. VALENTINE PILE FABRIC AND ITS METHOD OF MANUFACTURE Filed June l2, 1959 `necessary for a short pile fabric.

nite States My invention relates to the manufacture of cut pile fabrics having more than one length of pile woven in the same pieces of cloth at the same time, and more particularly to two fabrics woven face to face `such that each will have two or more lengths of pile evenly distributed over the face of each fabric.

In the art of weaving cut pile fabrics by any of the :presently known or employed looms it .has never been .suggested to weave a fabric of more than one length of pile in the same piece at the same time with the conventional knife rail set to cut the pile midway between the top Iand bottom pieces. If `the knife rail were set to cut the pile olf-center, it would `necess-arily produce one piece with relatively high pile while the other piece would possess all `low pile. It is further known in the art of weaving cut pile fabric that pile must be kept taut at all times during the weaving operation to permit the shuttles to fly without obstruction from slack pile ends in the respective sheds. lt is also understood that it is necessary to deliver a greater length of pile yarn for a long pile fabric than is Prior to my invention, the weaving of two lengths of pile was not possible in view of the fact that the loom would have to be set for the weaving of the short pile, which would thus leave the yarn of the long pile relatively loose thereby causing the shuttles to y out of the loom and the yarn to snarl and eventually break.

It has been proposed, as a method of obtaining two lengths of pile, to employ a fiber used in the making of pile fabric having deiinite heat shrinking characteristics. The fabric having such fibers is subjected to the application of heat, thereby causing a shrinkage of the fiber effected by such heat and thereby resulting in a fabric having two lengths of pile.

Fabrics of two lengths of pile have been made in uncut pile fabrics in which the pile in the fabric is in loop form.

` Fabrics of this type are commonly known as frieze fabrics.

However, on these fabrics the pile is not cut in either the loom or off the loom, and there is no means ofcutting the loops evenly and uniformly across and lengthwise of the fabric.

Accordingly, an object of my invention is to provide a fabric having more than one length of cut pile.

Another object is to weave two or more lengths of pile in `the same piece at the same time evenly across and lengthwise of the piece, withthe length of pile being selectable and variable according to the separate lengths desired, such lweaving being possible on the presently known double shuttle plush loom and single shuttle plush loom wherein the cutting of the pile by the usual cutting mechanism is accomplished along the central plane interposed .between the usual top and bottom pieces of fabric or by cutting the pile along such plane after the pieces have been removed from the selected loom.

A further object is to provide different lengths of cut pile to provide fur-effect fabrics by compatible weaves wherein a weave is employed to produce compactness for the short fur body, whereas another weave is employed to produce the long open guard liber of the fur with the weaves and yarns selected being dependent upon the system selected for producing the desired fur resemblance.

An important object is to facilitate the weaving of cut 'l atene i 3,014,502 Patented Dec. 26, 1961 pile .fabric having appreciably longer pile lengths than is now possible by means of the present plush `loom of either the double shuttle type with the pile being cut in the loom at the midway point between the top and bottom pieces by means of the presently employed pile Vcutting mechanism, or by the single shuttle type wherein the pile is cut either inthe loom or olf the loom by conventional cutting means. l t

Another important object is to `weave Amore Athan one length of pile by means of such plush looms wherein the distance that the top and bottom `pieces are set apart is only dependent upon the selected length of short pile, thereby permitting the weaving of yarn of considerably less strength than would otherwise be required *to weave the selected length of long pile.

The principles of this invention are applicable to all known types of cut pile fabrics -of substantially all weaves and constructions made on the presently known and conventional double shuttle plush looms which weave two pieces of cloth simultaneously face to face or `by the presently known single shuttle plush loom which weaves two pieces face to face at the same time. In accordance with these looms, the pile is cut either in the loom while weaving by the conventionally employed reciprocatory cutting knife or off the loom by a cutting machine kno-wn cornmercially to 'the art as a splitter. The present invention advantageously utilizes extra filling or weft threads which are removed from the fabric after completing their function, or extra gauze fabric woven with each ofthe top and bottom pieces and subsequently removed after completing Itheir function. These extra filling threads and gauze fabrics are woven on the face side of boththe topand bottom pieces and function to keep the pile warp tight during the stages when it is not weaving with the `base fabric, as well as to hold such pile warp tight while being transferred from the top to bottom piece, and vice versa. The pile cutting position is interpreted or selected as .the central location between the top and bottom pieces where the pile yarn is transferred from one piece yto the other. The extra filling threads or gauze, as the case may be, are then removed from the base fabrics by the techniques Y used in the trade for this purpose.

veight filling threads to the repeat;

FIG. 2 is a fragmentary diagrammatic view illustrating the fabric woven in accordance with FIG. l after the connecting pile has been cut and the supporting weft threads removed;

FIG. 3 is a graph illustrating a suitable drawing and shedding operation for practicing 'my invention;

FIG. 4 is another diagrammatic illustration of the weaving of grounds of a double pile fabric wherein the fabric is made by combining an eight pick weave, of which two picks are removed after weaving to produce the conventional six pick weave, together with a sixteen pick weave, of which four picks are removed to produce the conventional twelve pick weave, twelve picks of which will be picks of weave and four picks of which will be pull-out picks; Y

FIG. 5 is a fragmentary diagrammatic view illustrating the fabric woven in accordance with FIG. l after the con- FIG. 6 is a graph illustrating a suitable drawing and shedding operation for fabricating my invention in accordance with FIGS. 4 and 5;

FIG. 7 is still another diagrammatic illustration of the arrangement of yarns in the weaving of a double pile fabric in accordance with my invention wherein this fabric is made by combining a twelve pick short pile weave in which six picks are removed after weaving, together with a twenty-four pick long pile weave in which twelve picks are removed after weaving;

FIG. 8 is a fragmentary diagrammatic view of the fabric woven in accordance with FIG. 7 after the connecting pile has been cut and the supporting gauze fabric removed; and

FIG. 9 is a graph of a suitable drawing and shedding operation illustrating the manner in which the fabric of FIGS. 7 and 8 is woven.

The present invention is concerned with the weaving of cut pile fabrics which are woven face to face such that they will ultimately possess two or more radically different heights of pile, the length of which is readily and accurately controlled. These different lengths of cut pile are, accordingly, adapted to be evenly distributed over the face of the fabric, thereby permitting the construction of a fabric having all of the characteristics of natural furs. In this connection the fine short pile simulates the body of such natural furs and the long, coarse fibers resemble the long, coarse guard hairs of such furs.

The principles of the present invention are applicable to substantially all cut pile fabrics of conventional weaves and are capable of being practiced by the employment of presently known and commercial double shuttle plush looms which weave two pieces simultaneously face to face and on the commercially available single shuttle plush loom which is capable of weaving two pieces at a time face to face. In connection with either type of loom, the pile is either cut in the loom during the operation of weaving or subsequently cut on a splitter commonly employed in the art for this purpose after the goods have been taken from the loom with the pile uncut.

In accomplishing the present invention, either extra filling threads or gauze fabrics is advantageously employed between the top and bottom pieces, the separation of which in the loom is determined by the desired distance necessary to make the shorter pile. Under such circumstances, the interposed threads or fabric between the top and bottom pieces function to maintain the long pile taut so that the two lengths of pile are woven at the same time in the same piece with the knife rail and cutting knife being set midway between the top and bottom pieces. The selection of either extra filling threads or an extra gauze fabric will depend on the desired length of the long pile, but in either case the extra filling threads and the gauze fabric are woven into and with the pile warp as well as the ground warp of both top and bottom pieces so as to provide equal tension and fastness to each of the pile ends evenly across the piece. The filling threads or gauze fabric are woven in on the face side of both the top and bottom pieces and are removed from such pieces after such pieces are removed from the loom.

The extra filling threads and the gauze fabric function to maintain the extra amount of pile yarn which is delivered for purposes of forming the long pile relatively tight while the long pile is not weaving with the ground, as well as to hold such pile tight while being transferred from the top and bottom pieces. In addition, these extra filling threads or gauze fabric serve to maintain the threads away from the cutting knife until the proper time at which the pile is most advantageously cut, as well as to keep the pile taut when being presented to the cutting knife. In cooperation with the normally employed bumper rods, these filling threads or gauze fabric keep the pile taut at substantially all times to maintain the weaving sheds clear of loose ends and, thus, permit the shuttles to fly without obstruction. These extra filling threads, as well as the gauze fabric, are woven with their own selvage so that their removal is thereby facilitated after the cutting knife has performed its function. The removal of the threads may be accomplished by the means and techniques usually employed in the making of frieze fabrics. In removing the gauze the filling of the gauze is first removed so as not to disturb the pile. The warp of the gauze, as a consequence, becomes merely cotton thread waste.

In constructions requiring very long pile it is often necessary to make very long warp iioats in the weave to produce these long pile effects. Under such circumstances, when the pile warp is not weaving, it would be in a position to snarl and twist around other or adjacent threads if not kept tight and held in place. The employment of the gauze fabric under these conditions will prevent such undesirable results. The gauze fabric is, accordingly, lwoven with the extra filling and into the base fabric by the pile warp and interlaced in such a manner to form a well tied in base to carry the pile warp and, consequently, keep it taut to permit the proper shedding of the loom as well as the many other functions stated in the above.

The manufacture of fabrics in accordance with my invention may be carried out on the usual type of double shuttle plush loom having shuttles S and S which are simultaneously operable in fixed planes to respectively lay weft threads across the loom. As will be understood by those skilled in the art, the loom is also equipped with the conventional reciprocatory cutting knife, the usual take-up or pin rollers, and the commonly employed pile delivery rollers, either single or double depending on the selected weaves and required heights of the difierent lengths of pile.

In weaving the particular fabric shown in FIG. l and FIG. 3 of the drawings, which is shown by way of illustration only, I utilize the backing warps A and A' and B and B', warps A and A forming the ground for the upper or top fabric and B and B' the ground for the bottom or lower fabric. As will be evident shortly, the pile warps P1 and P2 form the short pile while the pile warps P3, P4, P5 and P6 form the long pile, with all of the pile warp ends connecting the grounds of the upper and lower fabrics. These piles when cut will form the tufts of both the top and bottom fabrics.

The warp yarn ends in a reed dent are drawn through the heddle eyes of the heddles mounted in heddle or harness frames 1-10 arranged as shown in the diagram of FIG. 3 marked Draw, this draw and weave being for a l and l backing weave.

In the manufacture of fabrics in accordance with the exemplary specific embodiment of FIG. l and FIG. 3, it will be apparent that two sets of delivery rollers need not be utilized since the high and low pile will require the same yardage of yarn for their respective weaves. In this connection, the two different weaves of this construction, namely the short pile weave repeating on four picks--of which two picks are removed after weavingand the long pile weave repeating on eight picks of which four picks are removed after weavingwill produce a short pile twice as compact as the long pile, whereas the latter will be twice as long. The weight of the yarn in both the high and the low pile will be approximately the same, provided the same size yarn is used for both.

In weaving a repeat of this fabric the cycle may be considered as starting with the simultaneous laying of the picks or wefts WIA and WIB by the upper shuttle S and the lower shuttle S', respectively, with the weft yarn as laid by both shuttles being the same size and count.

The positions occupied by the warp yarns during the laying of the wefts are indicated in FIG. 3 which shows the up, down and center positions which are conventional designations of pile positions for all pile fabrics. In view of the importance of the positions that the pullout picks or weft threads occupy, I employ other symbols, namely X to denote pile up over top pull-out and a small dot for pile over bottom pull-out weft. The usual large black dot representing up signifies that both top and bottom warps are over wefts A for the top piece and wefts B for the bottom piece; X representing center signifies that these warps are over the lower wefts and under the upper wefts; and empty white squares representing down signify that these warps are under the top wefts for the top shuttle and under the bottom wefts for the Ibottom shuttle, these being the positions of each warp thread during the laying of each pair of wefts or picks. Each vertical row of squares of the draw denotes the relative position of each end of the warp; and the raising and lowering of each end is so indicated in the weave and harness chain.

Thus, the arrangement of the ground ends and the pile ends in FIG. l is bottom ground end 7, top ground end 9, bottom ground end 8, top ground end l0, short pile end l, long pile end 3, long pile end 4, these to; complete the iirst dent in the reed. Then bottom ground end 8, top ground end l0, bottom ground end 7, top ground end 9, short pile end 2, long pile end and long pile end 6 will complete the second dent and the repeat of the draw.

During the laying of wefts WA and WlB, the usual harnesses of the loom are properly arranged such that the heddles through which the warp yarns pass hold ground warp A in the up position and ground warp A in the down position with respect to the top piece, and ground warp B in the up position and ground warp B in the down position in the bottom piece. These ground warps of both the top and bottom pieces then continue to weave in a l up and l down arrangement with the wefts W1A, W3A, WSA and W'7A for the top piece and wefts WlB, WSB, WSB andf'W7B for the bottom piece, wefts WZA, W4A, W6A and WSA for the top piece and wefts WZB, W4B, W6B and WSB for the bottom piece being all pull-out wefts or picks used to hold the pile in position for weaving and dwelling.

The complete weaving of each warp thread with wefts lWIA and WIB is as follows: ground warps A and A and B and B are disposed as previously stated; pile warp P1 is held in an up position over WIA; pile warp P2 is held in a down position under -weft WIB; pile warp P3 is held in an up position over weft WlA; pile warp P4 is in a center up position under weft WEA; pile warp P5 is held in a center down position under WEA and"l Y over WIB; and pile warp P6 is in a down position under wefts WIA and WIB, thus completing the progress of the first weft thread.

During the reverse movement of the shuttles S and S to lay respectively, wefts WZA and WZB and, as stated previously, ground warps A and A and ground warps B and B' do not weave with wefts WZA or WZB in either the top or bottom pieces since WZA and WZB are pullout wefts weaving only with the pile warps. n Under such circumstances, pile P1 is held in a center position passing under wefts WZA and over weft WZB; pile P1 is transferred from the top to the bottom piece; pile P2 is held in a center position over weft WZB and under weft W2A; pile P2 being transferred from the bottom to the top piece; and pile warp P3 is held in the top center position under weft WZA to form half of the interlace with weft WZA along with pile warp P4 which 'will be evident shortly to thusly hold pile warp P3 taut in the dwell. Pile Warp P4 is in the top center position over weft WZA, thereby completing the interlace with weft WZA and pile warp P3` Pile warp P3 and pile warp P4 embrace each other about weft WZA to form a rm support for weft WZA to thereby constantly maintain the desired tension and tautness on the pile warps. Pile warp P5 is held in the bottom center position by weft WZB. In this connection, weft WZB passes over pile warp P5 and thusly forms half of the bottom interlace with pile warp P6 and weft WZB.` Pile warp P6 is held in the center down position over weft WZB tovthereby complete the interlace with weft WZB. Consequently, pile warp P6 cooperates with pile warp P15 to provide a firm support for weft WZB for purposes of maintaining the tension constant on the pile warps, as well as to supply a rrn support for holding all the pile warps taut.

During the reverse movement of shuttles S and S' to lay respectively wefts WSA and WSB, top ground A is down and ground A is up with respect to `weft WSA for the top piece, whereas ground warp B is down and ground warp B is up with respect to weft W3B. Pile warp P1 is in a down position under weft WBB, while pile warp P2 is in an up position over weft WSA. As will be observed, pile wa1p P3 is held in the center up position under weft WSA, pile warp P4 in the down position under weft WSB, pile warp P5 in the up position over weft WSA, and pile warp P6 in the down center position over weft WBB.

During the reverse movement of shuttles S and S to lay respectively wefts WA and WB which do not weave with ,ground warps A and A' for the top piece or B and B for the bottom piece, pile warp P1 is held in the center position during its transfer from the bottom piece to the top piece, passing over weft W43 and under weft WdA, piie warp PZ is held in center position as it is being transferred from the top piece to the bottom piece, and consequently is under weft WLiA and over weft WeB. Pile warp P3 is in the top center position, passing over weft Wit-A to form the interlace with weft WLtA alo-ng with pile warp P5. Pile warp P4 is held in the down center position, passing over weft W4B to form the interlace with weft WeB together with pile warp P6. Pile warp P6 is held in the down center position, passing under weft WiiB to complete the other half of the interlace of weft WiB and to cooperate with pile warp P4 to form the `desired rm support for this weft W4-B. Pile warp P5 is held in the up center position under weft WtA to fonm the interlace of weft i1/4A along with pile warp P3 to provide the iirm support for weft WfiA to maintain the tension constant on all of the pile ends and to keep the pile warps taut for weaving.

During the reverse movement of shuttles S and S' to lay respectively wefts WSA and WSB, the ground warp for the top piece A is held up and ground warp for A is held down. Similarly, ground warpl B is up and ground warp B is down to complete the plain weave for the bottom piece. Pile Warp P1 is up and over weft WSA while pile warp PZ is down and under weft WSB. In addition, pile warp P3 is held in a down position under weft WB and pile warp P4 is held in a down center position over weft WSB. In completing this movement pile warp P5 will be in a center up position under weft WSA and pile warp P6 will be held in an up position under weft WSA.

During the reverse movement of shuttles S and S to lay respectively wefts W6A and WB, wherein these wefts do not weave with ground warps A and A for the top piece or with wefts B and B' for the bottom piece, pile warp P1 is held in a center position as it is being transferred from the top to the bottom piece, and pile warp P2 is similarly in a center position as it passes from the bottom to the top piece. Pile warp P3 is in a bottom center up position, passing over weft WGB to form part of the interlacing with weft WB, and pile warp P4 is held in the bottom center up position under weft WdB to complete the interlacing with this weft W6B to thereby provide a firm anchor for wett WGB to maintain the tension uniform for all the pile ends in the botto-m piece and the pile warps taut for weaving. Pile warp PS is held in the up center position over weft WB and pile warp P6 isheld in the center up position, passing under weft WGA to complete the interlacing of weft WSA to thereby form the desired support for this weft AW6A for the reasons stated in the above.

During the reverse movement for shuttles S and S to lay respectively wefts W7A and W7B, the ground warp A for the top piece is held in a down position and ground warp A' is held in an up position, while ground warp B for the bottom fabric is in the down position, and ground warp B' in the up position to continue the plain weave arrangement of the ground fabric. Thus, pile warp P1 is held in the down position by weft W7B, pi'le warp P2 is in the up position, passing over weft W7A, Pile warp P3 is held in the center down position, passing above weft W7B, pile warp P4 is held in the up position, passing over weft W7A, pile warp P5 is held in the down position, passing under weft W7B and pile warp P6 is held in the center up position, passing below weft W7A,

During the reverse movement for shuttles S and S to lay respectively wefts WBA and WSB, which as previously stated do not weave with the ground warps A and A for the top piece and wefts B and B for the bottom piece, pile warp P1 is held in a center position as it is being transferred from the bottom to the top piece. Pile warp P2, on the other hand, is similarly held lin a center position while passing from the top piece to the bottom piece. Pile warp P3 is in the bottom center down position under the weft WSB and pile warp P4 is held in the down center up position under the weft WSB. Pile warp P5 is held in the down center up position o-ver the weft WSB to complete the interlacing and anchoring of the weft WSB. Pile warp P6 is held in the up center position, passing under weft WSA, and completes the interlacing of the weft WSA to form a firm support for holding the tension even on all the pile ends and to act against pile warp P5 to hold the pile warps taut for weaving as well as for the other reasons advanced in the above.

The manufacture of fabrics illustrated in FIGS. 4, 5 and 6 may e carried out on the usual type double shuttle plush looms having shuttles marked S and S' simultaneously operable in fixed planes to Ilay weft threads across the loom. The loom is, in all respects, similar to that previously mentioned in connection with FIGS. 1-3 but requires two sets of delivery rollers, each set having its own drive and change gears to regulate the amount of yarn delivered for the height of pile desired.

The warp yarn ends in a reed dent are drawn through the heddle eyes of the heddles mounted in heddle frames or harness frames 1-10 arranged as shown in the diagram marked draw of FIG. 6. This draw, as well as the illustrated weave, is primarily adopted for weaving a 1 and l backing weave. In this particular embodiment the backing warps A and A form the ground warps for the top piece and backing warps B and B' form the ground warps for the bottom piece. Pile warps P1 and P2 are employed for the short pile and warps P3, P4, P5 and P6 the long pile. It will be apparent shortly that all pile warp ends connect the grounds of the top piece and bottom piece arranged in such a manner that when cut they will form the tufts 0f both the top and bottom fabrics.

In weaving this fabric the cycle may be considered as starting with the simultaneous laying of the wefts WIA and WIB by the upper shuttle S and the lower shuttle S', respectively, the weft yarn laid by both shuttles being the same size and count.

During the laying of wefts WIA and WIB, the usual harnesses of the loom are suitably positioned with the heddles through which the warp yarns respectively pass, disposing as illustrated ground warps A and A with respect to weft WIA for forming the top piece and ground warps B and B' with respect to weft WIB for forming the ground fabric for the bottom piece. As illustrated in the draw of FIG. 6, the warps are initiated by having the rst end of the bottom fabric dressed-in as end l, then the rst end of the top fabric being dressed-in as end 2. Each series of warps, both top and bottom, are then continued by weaving 1 up and 1 down with the top ground wefts WZA, WSA, WSA, W6A, W7A, W9A, W10A and W-11A for the top piece and with WZB, W3B,

WSB, W6B, W7B, W9B, W10B and WIIB for the bottom piece. Wefts W4A, WSA and W12A pull out wefts which do not weave with the top ground ends, and wefts W4B, WSB and WIZB pull out wefts which similarly do not weave with the bottom ground wefts. These pull-out wefts are employed to weave with the long pile ends to hold them tight during the dwell, as well as during their transfer from -top and bottom pieces. Under such oircumstances, the weaving sheds advantageously clear the slack ends, the cutting mechanism permitted to effectively cut the pile. Furthermore, during the simultaneous laying of the weft threads WIA and WIB, these wefts WIA and WIB are also woven with pile warp P1 in an up position over weft WIA, and pile Warp P2 in a down position under weft WIB. Pile warp P3 is held in an up position with weft WIA passing thereunder, while pile warp P4 is held in a down position by passing under weft WIB. Pile warp P5 is held in a center down position at this point with pile warp P6 in a center up position. Thus, the weaving of all the yarns with wefts WIA and WIB is accomplished.

During the reverse movement of shutles S and S to lay respectively wefts WZA and WZB, ground warp A is held in a down position and ground warp A is held in an up position for the top piece; the ground warp B is held in a down position and ground warp B is held in an up position, thus forming the plain weave arrangement of the ground fabric of both the top and bottom pieces. Pile warp PI is held in a down position vso that weft WZA passes over this pile warp P1; and pile warp P2 is held in the up position, passing over weft WZB. As will be observed, pile warp P3 is held in the down position in the top piece, and pile warp P4 is held in the up position in the bottom piece. Pile warp P5 is held in the center down position in the bottom piece in the dwell, and pile warp P6 is held in the center up position in the dwell in the top piece. Thus, the weaving of all warp threads with wefts WZA and WZB has been completed.

By the reverse movement of the shuttles S and S' to lay respectively the wefts WBA and W3B, ground warp A is held in the up position with ground warp A' being held in the down position in the top piece; and ground warp B is held in the up position with ground warp B in the down position in the bottom piece. Pile warp P1 is held in the up position in the top piece, while ground warp 2 is held in the down position in the bottom piece. Pile warp P3 is held in the up position in the top piece, while pile warp P4 is held in the down position in the bottom piece. Pile warp P5 is held in the dwell in the center down position of the bottom piece and pile warp P6 is held in the dwell in the center up position of the top piece; thus, completing the weaving of all the warps with wefts W3A and W3B.

By the reverse movement of the shuttles S and S to lay respectively the wefts W4A and W4B, ground warps A and A' do not weave with weft W4A in the top piece and ground warps B and B do not weave with weft W4B in the bottom piece since these wefts W4A and W4B are pull-out wefts that weave only with the long pile warp threads to thereby hold them in place and take up the slack yarn in these warps caused by the extra yardage delivered to produce the two heights of pile. It should be understood that other functions are performed by these -pull-out wefts as enumerated in the above. Pile warp P1 does not weave with wefts W4A or W4B as pile warp P1 is being transferred from the top to lthe bottom piece and is held in a center up posi-tion under weft W4A and over weft W4B. Pile warp P2 does not Weave with wefts W4B or W4A as pile warp P2 is being transferred from the bottom to the top and is held in the center down position, passing over weft W4B and under weft W4A. Pile warp P3 is held in the center up position under weft W4A to form half of the interlace with weft W4A and to hold against pile warp P6. Pile warp P4 is held in the center down position to form half of the yinterlace with weft W4B and to hold against pile warp P5. Pile warp P5 is held in the center down position to form the other half of the interlace with weft W4B Iand to hold against pile warp P4 to form a firm foundation for maintaining the desired tensioning of all the long pile Wlarp threads oonstant across the width of the pieces and for holding the pile ends taut while in the dwell, thereby taking up slack yarn that is created by the delivery of `the pile to produce the two pile heights. Under these conditions, the pile yarns will lber'suiiciently tight to keep lthe weaving sheds clear of loose yarns, 4to permit 4the cutting knife to cut the pile at even lengths at the proper time, and to facilitate their transfer between top and bot-tom pieces.

Pile warp P6 is held in the center up position lto form the other half of the interlace wit-h pile warp P4 and weft W4A, to hold against pile walp P3 to form the firm foundation for the top piece to hold .the long pile warp ends in position and to perform the other functions described in the foregoing. Thus, the weaving of the yarns with the wefts W4A and W4B is completed.

By the reverse movement of the shuttles S and S to lay respectively the wefts WSA and WSB, ground warp A is held in a down position and ground warp A is held in an up position for the top piece, and ground warp B is held in a down position while ground warp B' is held in an up position for the bottom piece. Pile warp P1 having been transferred from the top to the bottom piece by the weaving of wefts W4A and W4B is now in a down position in the bottom piece, and pile warp P2 having been transferred from the bottom piece to the top piece by the weaving of wefts W4A and W4B is now in an up position in the top piece. Pile warp P3 is held in a center up position being held in the dwell under weft WSA, and pile warp P4 is held in the down center position being held in the dwell of the bottom piece being over weft WB. Pile warp P5 is held in the up position over weft WSA, and pile warp P6 is held in the down position under weft WBB, thus completing the weaving for wefts WSA and WSB.

By the reverse movement of shuttles S and S to lay respectively wefts WGA and W6B, the ground warp A is held in an up position and ground warp A' is held in a Ydown position in the top piece, and ground warp B is held in an up position and ground warp B is held in a down position. Pile warp P1 is held in an up position in the bottom piece and pile warp P2 is held in a down position in the-top piece. Pile warp P3 is` held in a center up position being held in the dwell under weft W6A, and pile Warp P4 is held in a down center position being held in the dwell over weft WlB. Pile warp P5 is held in the down position of the top piece'and pile w-arp P6 is held in the up position of the bottom piece, thus completing the weaving of all the warp threads with wefts W6A and W6B.

By the reverse movement of the shuttles S and S' to lay respectively wefts W7A and W7B, ground warp A is held in the down position, and ground warp A is held in the up position for the top piece; and ground warp B is held in the down position and ground warp B is held in the up position for the bottom piece. Pile warp P1 is held in the down position inthe bottom piece and pile Warp P2 is held in the up position in the top piece. Pile warp P3 is held in `the 4up center position,I being held in the dwell under weft W7A, and pile warp P4 is held in the down center position, being held in the dwell over weft W7B. Pile warp P5 is held in the up position in the top piece and pile warp P6 is held in the down position of the bottom piece, thus completing the weaving of all the warps with wefts W7A and W7B.

By the reverse movement of the shuttles S andrS' to lay respectively wefts WSA and WSB, ground warps A and A' do not weave with weft W'SA for the top piece, weft WSA passing under both A and A' of the top piece; and ground warps B and B do not weave with weft WSB of the bottom piece, weft WSB passing over both B and B'. Pile warp P1 does not Weave with either wefts WSA or WSB since pile warp P1 is in the process of being transferred from the bottom piece to the top piece and is held in the center position under weft WSA and over weft WSB. Pile warp P2 does not weave with either weft WSA or weft WSB since pile warp P2 is in the process of being transferred from the top piece to the bottom piece and is held in the center position under weft WSA and over weft WSB. Pile warp P3 is held in the center up position over weit WSA to form half of the interlace with weft WSA and to hold against pile warp P5. Pile warp P4 is held in the down center position under weft WSB to form half of the interlace with weft WSB and to hold `against pile warp P6. Pile warp P5 is held in the center up position, passing under weft WSA to complete the other half of the interlace with weft WSA and to complete the hold against pile warp P3 to form a irm support for weft WSA to hold all of the long pile ends in the top piece under constant tension across the piece, and to permit weft WSA to complete the other functions that it is obliged to do as described in the foregoing. Pile warp P6 is held in the down center position under weft WSB to complete the interlace with weft WSB and to complete the hold against pile warp P4 to form a firm support for weft WSB to similarly hold all the long pile ends in the bottom piece under constant tension across the piece, thus the weaving of all warp ends with wefts WSA and W8B has been completed.

By the reverse movement of shuttles S and S to lay respectively wefts WQA and W9B, ground warp A is held in the up position and ground warp A is held in the down position inthe top piece, `and ground warp B is held in the up position and ground warp B is held in the down position in the bottom piece. Pile warp P1 is held in the up position in the top piece and pile warp P2 is held in the down position in the bottom piece, pile warp P3 is held in the down position in the bottom piece and pile Warp P4 is held in the up position in the top piece. Pile warp P5 is held in the center up position, being held in the vdwell under weft W9A and pile warp P6 is held in the center down position, being held in the dwell over weft W9B, thus completing the weaving of all warps with wefts W9A and W9B.

By the reverse movement of shuttles S and S to lay respectively wefts Wli'A and WIOB, ground warp A is held in the down position and ground w-arp A is held in the up position in the top piece, and ground warp B is held in the down position and ground warp B is held in the up position in the bottom piece. Pile warp P1 is held in the down position in the top piece and pile warp P2 is held in the up position in the bottom piece, pile warp P3 is held in the up position in the bottom piece and pile warp P4 is held in the down position in the top piece. Pile warp P5 is held in the center up position, being held in the dwell under weft W10A, and pile warp P6 is held in the center down position, being held in the dwell over weft WlB, thus completing the weaving of all warps with wefts WltlA and W10B.

By the reverse movement of shuttles S and S' to lay respectively wefts W11A and W11B, ground warp A is held in the up position and ground warp A is held in the i. down position in the top piece, and ground warpB is held in the up position and ground warp B is held in the down position in the bottom piece. Pile warp P1 is held in the up position in the top piece and pile warp P2 is held in the down position in the bottom piece, pile warp P3 is held in the down position in the bottom piece and pile warp P4 is held in the up position in the top piece. Pile warp P5 is held in the center up position in the top piece, it being held in the dwell under weft W11A, and pile warp P6 is held in the center down position, it being held inthe dwell over weft W11B, thus completing the Weaving of all warps with wefts WHA and W11B.

By the reverse movement of shuttles S and S' to lay respectively the wefts W12A and W12B, ground wfarps A-and A do not weave with weft W12A in the topA piece,

both `ground warps A and A' passing over weft WIZA, and ground warps B and B' do not weave with weft WIZB in the bottom piece, both ground warps A and A passing under weft W12B. Pile warp P1 does not weave with weft W12A or wef-t W12B since pile warp P1 1s 1n the process of being transferred from the top piece to the bottom piece and is held in -a center position, passing under weft WIZA and over weft W12B. Pile warp PZ does not Weave with either weft WlZA or WlZB since pile warp P2 is in the process of being transferred from the bottom piece to the top piece and is held in the center position, passing over weft W12B and under weft W12A. Pile warp P3 is held in the up on bottom center position, passing over weft W12B to form half of the 1nterlace with weft WIZB -and to hold against pile warp P6. Pile warp P4 is held in the down position of the top center to form half of the interlace with weft WMA and to hold against pile warp P5. Pile warp P5 is held in the up top center position and completes the interlace with weft WlZA and to complete the hold against pile warp P4, to form a rrn foundation to hold the long pile ends in position in the top piece and to maintain the tension of all the long pile ends constant across the piece, and to permit the weft WIZA to perform the other functions that it is obliged to perform as described previously. Pile warp P6 is held in the down on the bottom center position to complete the interlace with weft W123 and to hold against the pile warp P3 to form a rrn foundation for all of the long pile ends in the bottom piece, and to hold all the long pile ends under constant tension to permit weft W12B to perform its other expected funetions, thus the weaving of all the warps with wefts W12A and W12B has been completed.

By the reverse movement of shuttles S and S to lay respectively wefts W13A and W13B, ground warp A is held in the down position and ground warp A is held in the up position in the top piece. Under these conditions, ground warp B is held in the down position and ground warp B is held in the up position in the bottom piece. Pile warp P1 is held in the down position in the bottom piece and pile warp P2 is held in the up position in top piece. Pile warp P3 is in the center down position in the bottom piece, it being held in the dwell weit W13B, passing over pile warp P3. Pile warp P4 is held in the center up position in the top piece, it being held in the dwell under weft W13A. Pile warp P5 is held in `the down position in the bottom piece and pile warp P6 is held in the up position in the top piece, thus completing the weaving of all the warps with wefts W13A and W13B.

By the reverse movement of the shuttles S and S to lay respectively wefts W14A and W14B, ground warp A is held in the up position and ground warp A is held in the down position in the top piece, and ground warp B is held in the up position and ground warp B is held in the down position in the bottom piece. Pile warp P1 is held in the up position in the bottom piece and pile warp P2 is held in the down position in the top piece. Pile warp P3 is held in the center down position in the bottom piece, it being held in the dwell over weft W14B, and pile warp P4 is held in the center up position in the top piece, it being held in the dwell under wett WMA. Pile warp P5 is held in the up position in the bottom piece and pile warp P6 is held in the down position in the top piece, thus completing the Weave of all the warps with wefts W14A and W14B.

By the reverse movement of the shuttles S and S to llay respectively wef-ts WlSA and WlSB, ground warp A is held in the up position and ground warp A is held in the down position in the top piece, and ground warp B is held in the down position and ground warp B is held in the up position in the bottom piece. Pile warp P1 is held in the down position in the bottom piece and pile warp P2 is held in the up position in the top piece. Pile warp P3 is held in the center down position of the bottom piece, it being held in the dwell over weft WISB, and pile warp P4 is held in the center up position in the top piece, it being held in the dwell under weft W1SA. Pile warp P5 is held in the down position in the bottom piece and pile warp P6 is held in the up position in the top piece, thus completing the weaving of all the warps with wefts W15A and W15B.

By the reverse movement of the shuttles S and S' to lay respectively wefts W16A and W16B, ground warps A and A' do not weave with weft W16A in the top piece, and ground warps B and B' do not weave with weft W16B in the bottom piece, ground warps A and A passing over weft W16A and ground warps B and B' passing under weft W16B. Pile warp P1 does not weave with weft W16A or weft W16B as it is in the process of being transferred from the bottom piece to the top piece and is held in a center position. Pile warp P2 does not weave with wefts W16A or W16B las it is in the process of being transferred from the top piece to the bottom piece and is likewise held in a center position. Pile warp P1 passes under weft W16A and over weft W16B, and pile warp P2 passes under weft W16A and over weft W16B. Pile warp P3 is held in the down center position under weft W16B to form half of the interlace with weft W16B in the bottom piece and to hold against pile warp P5 to thereby cooperate to form the firm foundation for the long pile threads in the bottom piece. Pile warp P4 is held in the up center position to form half of the interlace with weft W16A and to hold against pile warp P6 to form a firm foundation for the long pile threads and to permit weft W16A to hold the long pile threads in position Vin the top piece. Pile warp P5 is held in 'the up position in the bottom center to complete the other half of the interlace with weft W16B, the hold against pile warp P3 and the desired firm foundation, as well as the aforenoted functions. Pile Warp P6 is held in the down center position of the top piece to complete the interlace with weft W16A, the hold `against pile warp P4, a rm foundation for weft W16A in the top piece, and to per mit weft W16A to complete the functions it is expected to perform in keeping the ytension constant on all the long pile threads across the piece, as well as others; thus the weaving of all warps with wefts W16A and W16B is completed, and thus the full cycle of weaving of a complete repeat of the Weave. Under such circumstances, the warps and wefts return to their respective starting positions and all warp threads will be in position to repeat the weave at wefts W1A and WIB.

It should be noted by the preceding description that in the complete layout for weaving the P1 and P2 short pile w-arp ends in a regular six pick-two harness weave and in its combination with a l2 pick-4 harness weave, each six pick interlacing is accompanied by a long pile end of a l2 pick weave. Thus, after the pull-out picks are removed, each pile interlacing will have two pile ends together, one of short pile and the other of long pile, and the end of long pile will have two different lengths of pile, one the same length as the short pile with the other leg of the W being twice as long as the short pile.

The manufacture of fabrics shown in FIGS. 7, 8 and 9 may be carried out on the usual type double shuttle plush loom equipped and operated in a similar manner to that described in connection with FIGS. 1, 2, 3, 4, 5 and 6. Thus, warp yarns are drawn through heddle eyes of the heddle mounted in the heddle frames 1-12, which are arranged as shown in theA diagram marked Draw of FIG. 9. This draw and weave for the weaving of a two-and-one backing or ground weave, both for the top piece and the bottom piece, is Iso arranged that every end of both top and bottom is held in a fast pile binding arrangement, except the ends woven with the gauze fabrics, which are essentially loose pile weaves, since these gauze fabrics are removed from the base fabrics after the pile has been cut to thereby form the tufts for both the top and bottom pieces, the ground weave for the gauze fabrics being l up and l down Woven together with the extra gauze warp and the pull-out wefts.

In the present embodiment, which is disclosed along with the others by Way of illustration only, three backing warps are utilized for the top and bottom pieces between each set of pile ends in each reed dent; these ground ends are marked A and A. Two ends of A work on the same harness and weave alike with the warp end marked A' working between the two ends of A and A weaving opposite to the weaving of A in the top piece. Similarly, with respect to ground warps B and B', there are two ends of B weaving alike, with one end B weaving between the two ends of B, and weaving opposite to the two ends of B in the bottom piece. The gauze warps Y and Y form the gauze fabric adjacent to the top piece, and gauze warps Z and Z form the gauze fabric adjacent to the bottom piece. Both of these gauze fabrics are set to be Woven on the face side of both the top and bottom pieces, and, as will be seen in the following description of the weaving, are woven and interlaced to the ground fabrics both top and bottom to form a firm foundation to permit these gauze fabrics to complete the function they are oblige-d to perform in accordance with the pre ent invention. n f

Also utilized are two pile warps P1 and P2 to form the 'short pile in the fabric, and four pile warps P3, P4, P5

and P6 to form the long pile, all pile ends connecting with the ground fabrics of both the top and bottom pieces,

' and when cut form the tufts for both the top and bottom pieces. The two wefts which are laid across the loom at the same time, one weft for the top piece and the other for the bottom piece are, in this fabric, used for the weaving of the ground fabrics in the arrangement of one weft in the ground fabric and the next weft in the gauze fabric. in the weaving of fabrics as shown in FIGS. 7, 8 and 9, it is preferable that the loom be equipped Vwith two 4PKIA and PKlB by the upper shuttle S and the lower shuttle S', respectively, the weft yarn laid by both shuttles being the same size and count.

Warping arrangement is 1st end in warp is 1st end of bottom ground drawn on 7 harness, then 2nd is 1st end of tot` ground drawn on 9 harness, then lst end of top gauze drawn on 1l harness, then 2nd of gauze drawn for 1st end of gauze for bottom piece drawn on l2 harness, etc., as shown by draw of FIG. 9.`

The Weaving of the fabric according to the diagram and draw and chain is as follows. By the laying of wefts PKIA and PKlB simultaneously by shuttles S and S, the harness of the loom positions the heddles through which the warp yarns are passed such that: ground warp end A is held in the down position; ground Warp A is held in the up position in the top piece; ground warp B is held in the up position; ground warp B is held in the down position in the bottom piece; gauze warps Y and Y' do not Weave with weft PKlA; gauze warps Z and Z do not weave with weft PKlB, since both sets of these gauze warps weave only with the pull-out wefts 224 in even numbers; pile warp P1 is held in the up position in the top piece; pile warp P2 is held in the down position in the bottom piece; pile warp P3 is held in the up position in the top piece; pile warp P4 is held in the down posi' tion in the bottom piece; pile warp P5 is held in the dwell by the gauze adjacent to the top piece; yand pile warp P6 is held in the dwell by the gauze adjacent to the bottom piece, thus the weaving of all warps with wefts .PKIA and PKlB is complete.

L A and A do not weave with weft PKZA in the top` piece,

and ground warps B and B' do not weave with weft PKZB in the bottom piece. Gauze warp Y is held in the down position and gauze warp Y' is heldin the up position in the gauze adjacent to the top piece, and gauze warp Z is held in the down position and gauze warp Z is held in the up position in the gauze adjacent to the bottom piece. Short pile warp P1 and short pile warp P2 do not weave with wefts PKZA or PKZB in that weft PKZA passes over pile warp P1 in the top piece and weft PKZB passes under pile warp P2 in the bottom piece. Pile warp P3 does not weave with weft PKZA since it is held in the center of the top ground fabric. Pile warp P4 does not weave with weft PKZB since it is held in the center of the bottom ground fabric. Pile warp P5 is held in the up position in the gauze adjacent to the top piece, and pile warp P6 is held in the down position in the gauze adjacent to the bottom piece, thus completing the weaving of all warps with wefts PKZA and PKZB.

By the reverse movement of shuttles S and S to lay respectively wefts PIGA and PKSB, ground warp A is held in the up position and ground warp A is held in the down position in the top piece, and ground warp B is held in the down position and ground warp B is held in the up position in the bottom piece. Gauze warps Y and Y do not weave with weft PK3A in the gauze adjacent torthe top piece and gauze warps Z and Z' do not weave with weft PKEB in the gauze adjacent to the bottom piece, the Y gauze warps passing under weft PKSA and the Z gauze warps passing over weft PKSB. Pile warp Pll is held in the up position in the top piece, pile warp P2 is held in the down position in the bottom piece, pile warp P3 is held in the down position in the top piece and pile warp P4 is held in the up position in the bottom piece. Pile warp P5 is held in the center position, it being transferred from the gauze of the top piece to the gauze of the bottom piece, while pile warp P6 is held in the center position, it being transferred from the gauze of the bottom piece to the gauze of the top piece, thus completing the weaving of all warps with wefts PKB-A and PKBB.

By the reverse movement of shuttles S and S to lay respectively wefts PK4A and PK4B, ground warps A and A do not weave with weft PK4A in the top piece, and

ground warps B and B do not weavewith weft PK4B in the bottom piece. Gauze warp Y is held in the up position and gauze warp Y is held in the down position in the top gauze, and gauze warp Z is held in the up position and gauze warp Z is held in the down position in the bottom piece gauze. Pile warp P1 does not weave with weft PK4A in the top piece and pile warp P2 does not weave with weft PK4B in the bottom piece. Pile warp P3 does not weave with weft PK4A in the top and pile warp P4 does not weave with weft PK4B in the bottom piece. Pile warp P5 is held in the down center position under weft PK4B and pile warp P6 is held in the top center position over weft PK4A, thus completing the weaving of all warps with wefts PK4A and PKLBB.

By the reverse movement of shuttles S and S' to lay respectively wefts PKSA and PKSB, ground warp A is held in the down position and ground warp A is held in the up position in the top piece, and ground warp B is held in the up position and ground warp B' is held in the down position in the bottom piece. Gauze warps Y and Y do not weave with weft PKSA in the top piece gauze and gauze warps Z and Z' do not weave with weft PKSB in the gauze of the bottom piece. Pile warp P1 is held in the up position in the top piece, pile warp P2 is held in the down position in the bottom piece, pile warp P4 is held in the down position in the bottom piece, pile warp P3 is held in the up position in the top piece, pile warp P6 is held in the dwell by the gauze to the top piece, and pile warp P5 is held in the dwell by the gauze to the bottom piece, thus completing the weaving of all the warps with wefts PKSA and PKSB.

By the reverse movement of shuttles S and S to lay respectively wefts PKGA and PK6B, ground warps A and A do not weave with weft PK6A in the top piece, and ground warps B and B' do not weave with weft PK6B in the bottom piece. Gauze Warp Y is held in the up position and gauze warp Y is held in the down position in the gauze to the top piece, and gauze warp Z is held in the down position and gauze warp Z is held in the up position in the gauze to the bottom piece. Short pile warp P1 does not weave with weft PK6A, since it is in the process of being transferred from the top piece to the bottom piece and is held in the center position under weft PK6A and over weft PKSB. Short pile warp P2 does not weave with weft PK6B, since it is in the process of being transferred from the bottom piece to the top piece and is held in the center position over weft PK6B and under weft PK6A. Pile warp P3 is held in the down center position in the gauze to the top piece such that it is held under weft PK6A and forms half of the interlace with weft PK6A and pile warp P6. Pile warp P4 is held in the up position in the bottom gauze to form half of the interlace with weft PK6B and pile Warp P5. Pile warp P is held in the up position in the bottom gauze and completes the interlace with weft PK6B and pile warp P4. Thus, a rm tie of wefts PK6B and the bottom gauze to the bottom ground fabric is attained to produce a rm foundation for the bottom gauze to hold all the long pile ends securely and tightly, and the means by which the bottom gauze takes up all the slack yarn created by the extra yarn delivered to the long pile warp ends to permit the two heights of pile. In addition, the long pile ends are taut for weaving for purposes of keeping the weaving shed clear of loose ends to permit the shuttles, both top and bottom, to fly. Furthermore, the long pile ends are, accordingly, tightly disposed to prevent them from getting snarled and twisted around one another in a manner that loose ends would otherwise ordinarily work. In this connection, the long pile ends are taut to facilitate their transfer between the top and bottom pieces. The long pile ends are, thus, under constant tension across the piece, thereby enhancing the cutting to the proper length of all the long pile ends. The tying of the gauze fabrics to the ground fabrics by means of the pile ends effectively overcomes the possibility of the pile ends in the center of the pieces not being as tightly held as the ends on the sides 0f the pieces where the selvages are the support. Pile Warp P6 is held in the down position in the gauze to the top piece and completes the interlace with weft PKGA and pile warp P3, and to thus provide a firm tie of weft PK6A and the top gauze fabric to the top ground fabric to produce a iirm foundation for the top gauze to hold the long pile ends securely tight, and to permit the gauze to the top fabric to perform the same functions as described in the weaving of the pile warps P4 and P5 in the bottom gauze, thus the weaving of all the warps with wefts PKGA and PK6B is complete.

By the reverse movement of shuttles S and S to lay respectively wefts PK7A and PK7B, ground warp A is held in the down position and ground warp A is held in the up position in the top piece, and ground warp B is held in the up position and ground warp B is held in the down position in the bottom piece. Gauze warps Y and Y do not weave with weft PK7A in the top gauze and warps Z and Z do not weave with weft PK7B in the gauze to the bottom piece. Pile warp P1 is held in the down position in the bottom piece and pile warp P2 is held in the up position in the top piece. Pile warp P3 is held in the dwell by the gauze to the top piece and pile warp P4 is held in the dwell by the gauze to the bottom piece. Pile warp PS is held in the down position in the bottom piece and pile warp P6 is held in the dwell by the gauze to the top piece, thus completing the weaving'of all the warps with wefts PK7A and PK7B.

By the reverse movement of the shuttles S and S' to lay respectively wefts PKSA and PKSB, ground warps A and'A do not weave with weft PKSA in the top piece and ground warps B and B do not weave with weft PKSB in the bottom piece. Gauze warp Y is held in the up position and gauze warp Y is held in the down position in the gauze to the top piece, and gauze warp Z is held in the up position and gauze warp Z is held in the down position in the gauze to the bottom piece. Pile warp P1 does not Weave with weft PKSA in the top piece and pile warp P2 does not Weave with weft PKSB in the bottom piece. Pile Warp P3 is held in the up position in the gauze to the top piece, and pile warp P4 is held in the down position in the gauze to the bottom piece. Pile Warp P5 is held in the center position in the ground of the bottom piece, and pile warp P6 is held in the center position in the ground of the top piece, thus completing the Weaving of all the warps with wefts PKSA and PKBB.

By the reverse movement of the shuttles S and S' to lay respectively wefts PK9A and PK9B, ground warp A is held in the up position and ground Warp A is held in the down position in the top piece, and ground warp B is held in the down position and ground warp B is held in the up position in the bottom piece. Gauze warps Y and Y do not weave with weft PKQA in the gauze to the top piece, and gauze warps Z and Z do not weave with weft PKQB in the gauze to the bottom piece. Short pile warp P1 is held in the up position in the bottom piece and short pile warp P2 is held in the down position in the top piece. Pile warp P2 is held in the down position in the top piece and pile warp P3 in the center position as it is being transferred from the top gauze to the bottom gauze by passing under weft PK9A and over weft PK9B. Pile warp P4 is held in the center position during its transfer from the gauze to the bottom piece to the gauze to the top piece by passing over weft PK9B and under weft PK9A. Pile warp P5 is held in the up position in the bottom piece and Pile warp P6 is held in the down position in the top piece, thus completing the Weaving of all the warps with wefts PK9A and PKQB.

By the reverse movement of shuttles S and S to lay respectively wefts PKlGA and PKlOB, ground warps A and A do not weave with weft PKlOA in the top piece, and ground warps B and B do not weave with weft PKGB in the bottom piece. Gauze warp Y is held in the down position and gauze warp Y' is held in the up position in the gauze to the top piece, and gauze Warp Z is held in the down position and ground warp Z is held in the up position in the gauze to the bottom piece. Short pile warp Pl is held in the center position in the ground in the bottom piece and short pile warp P2 is held in the center position in the ground in the top piece. Pile warp P3 is held in the down position in the gauze to the bottom piece and pile warp P4 is held in the up position in the gauze to the top piece. Pile Warp P5 is held in the center position in the ground of the bottom piece and pile warp P6 is held in the center position in the ground of the top piece, thus completing the weaving of all the warps with wefts PKIA and PK10B.

By the reverse movement of the shuttles S and S' to lay respectively wefts PKllA and PKllB, ground warp A is held in the down position and ground warp A is held in the up position in the top piece, and ground Warp B is held in the up position and ground warp B is held in the down position in the bottom piece. Gauze warps Y and Y do not weave with weft PKllA in the top gauze, and gauze warps Z and Z' do not weave with weft PKllB in the bottom gauze. Pile warp P1 is held in the down position in the bottom piece and pile warp P2 is held in the up position in the top piece. Pile warp P3 is held in the dwell by the gauze to the bottom piece and pile warp P4 is held in the dwell by the gauze to the top piece. Pile warp P5 is held in the down position in the bottom piece and pile Warp P6 is held in the up position in the top piece, thus completing the weaving of all the warps with wefts PKllA and PKIIB.

By the reverse movement of shuttles S and S' to lay 17 respectivelyrwefts PK12A and PKIZB, Iground Warps A and A do not weave with weft PKIZA in the top piece and ground Warps B and B do not Weave with weft PKIZB in the bottom piece. Gauze warp Y is held in the up position and gauze warp Y is held in the down position in the gauze to the top piece, and gauze warp Z is held in the up position and gauze warp Z is held in the down position in the gauze to the bottom piece. Pile Warp P1 is vheld in the center position While in the process of being transferred from the bottom piece to the top piece and passes under weft PKllZA and over weft PKlZB. Pile Warp P2 is hel-d in the center position while being transferred from the top piece to the bottom piece. Pile warp P3 is held in the up position in the gauze to the 'bottom piece and forms half of the interlace with weft PK12B and pile Warp PS. Pile Warp P4 is held in the down position in the gauze to the top piece and forms half of the interlace with weft PK12A and pile warp P6. Pile Warp P5 is held in the up position in the gauze to the bottom piece and completes the interlace with weft PKIZB and pile Warp P3 to thus complete the Weaving of gauze to the bottom piece to the ground of the bottom piece and thereby provide the desired irm foundation for the gauze to the bottom piece. Pile Warp P6 is held in the down position in the gauze to the'top piece and completes the interlace with weft PKlZA and pile Warp P4 to thus complete the weaving of the gauze to the top piece to the ground of the top'piece whereby a firm foundation is formed, thusthe `Weaving of all warps with `Wefts PKlZA and PK12B is accomplished.

By the reverse movement of shuttles S and S to lay respectively wefts PKISA and PKlSB, ground `warp A is held in the down position and ground warp A is'held lin the up position in the top piece, and groundwarp B is held in the up'position and ground Warp` B is held in theldown' position in the bottom piece. Gauze w-arpe Y and Y do not weave with weft PK13A in the gauze to the top piece and gauze warps Z' and Z do not Weave with weft PK13B in the bottompieee. Pile warp P1 is held in the up lposition in 4the top piece and pile Warp P2 is held in the down position in the bottom piece. Pile Warp P3 is in the down position in the bottom pieceand pile Warp P4 is held in the up position in the top piece. Pile Warp P5 is held in the dwell by the gauze to the bottom piece and pile warp P6 is heid in the dwell by the gauze to the top piece, thus completing the weaving .of Vall waips with wefts PKISA and PK13B.

By theireverse movement of the shuttles S and S' to lay respectively Wefts PKMA and PK14B, ground warps A and A do not weave With weft PKMA in the top piece and ground Warps B and B do not Weave with weft PK14B in the bottom piece. Gauze warp Y isv held in the down position and gauze warp Y' is held in the up position in the gauze to the top piece, and gauze warp Z is held-in the down position and gauze Warp Z is held in the up position in the gauze toy the bottom piece. Pile warp P1 is in the center position i-n the ground of the top piece and pile warp P2 is in the center position in thegground of the` bottom piece, Pile warp P3 does not Weave with weft PK14B-in the bottom piece and pile warp P4 does not Weave with weft PKMA in the top piece. Pilewarp P5 is held in the down position in the gauzeto the bottom piece and pile Warp P6 Y 4is held in the up position in the gauze to the toppiece,

thus completing the Weaving of all Warps with wefts PKMA and PKMB.

` By the reverse movement ofthe shuttles S and S to lay respectively Wefts PKISA and PKlSB, ground Warp A is held in the' dogvfvn position and groundwarp A' is held in the up position inthe top piece, and ground Warp B is held in theJ down position and ground Warp B -is held in thev up position in the bottomxpiece. Gauze Warps Y and Y do not weave with weft PKISA in the gauze to the toppiece, and gauzewarps-Z and Z do not weave with weft PKISB in the gauze to the bottoinpiece. in the top piece and pile warp P2 is held n the up position in the bottom piece. Pile warp P3 is held in the up position in the bottom piece andpile Warp P4 is held in the down position in the top piece. Pile Warp P5 is held in the center position during its transfer from the'gauze to the top piece to the gauze to the bottom piece. Pile Warp P6 is held in the center position While being transferred from the gauze to the bottom piece yto the gauze .to the top piece, thus the Weaving of all Warps with Wefts PKISA and PKISB is completed.

By the reveise movement of the shuttles S and-S to lay respectively Wefts PK16A rand PKlB, ground Warps A 4and A do not weave with weft PK16A in the top piece, and ground warps B and B do not weave with weft PKMB in the bottom piece. Gauze Warp Y is held in the up position and gauze Warp Y is held in the down position in the gauze to the top piece, and gauze Warp Z is held in the up position and gauze warp Z is held in the down position in the gauze tothe bottom piece. Pile Warp P1 does not weave with weft PKIGA in the top piece and pile Warp P2 does not Weave with weft PKIGB in the bottom piece. Pile Warp P3 does not Weave with weft PK16B in the bottom piece and pile Warp P4 does not Weave with weft PK16A in the top piece. Pile Warp P5 is held in the up position in the gauze to the top piece and pile Warp P6 is held in the down-position in the gauze to the bottom piece, thus completing the Weaving of ally the Warps With wefts PKISA and PK16B. f

. By the reverse movement of the shuttles Si and S to lay respectively Wefts PK17A and PK17B, ground warp A is held in the down position and ground Warp A is held in the up position in the top piece. Ground Warp B is held in the up position and ground warp B is held t in the down position in the bottom piece. Gauze warps .with weft PK7B to the gauze to the bottom piece. Pile warp Pl is held in the up position in the to-p piece and pile Warp P2 is held in the down position in the bottom piece. Pile warp P3 is held in the down position in the bottom piece and pile Warp P4 is held in the .up position in the top piece. Pile warp P5 is held in the dwell by the gauze to the top piece and pile Warp P6 is held in the dwell by the gauze to the bottom piece, thus the weaving of all Warps with wefts PK17A and PK17B is completed.

By the reverse movement of the shuttles S and S to lay respectively wefts PKISA and'PKlSB, ground Warps A and A do not weave with weft PKISA in the top piece and, ground fWarps B and B do not Weave'with -weftPKSB in the bottom piece. Gauze Warp Y is heldl in the down position and gauze Y is held inthe up position in the gauze to` the top piece, `and gauze Warp Zfis' held inthe down-position 'and gauze Warp Z is the. center posit-ion over weft PKSB land under weft PKISA. Pile warp P3 is held in theV upposit-ion in the gauze to the ybottom piece to -form half of the interlace with wett PKISB and -pile'warp- P6. VPile warp P4 is held in lthe down position-in the" gauze to theltop piece .to form one halt' of the interlaee with weft PKlSA' and pile Warp PS. Pile warp P5 is held in the down position `in the gauze to the top piece and completes the other Ihalf of the interlace with weft PKISA and pile warp P4 toithereby weave: the gauze Vto the top piece Vto `the ground of the top piece and thus form the desired firm foundation for the top gauze.` Pile warp P6 is held in Pile Warp P1 is held in the down position L the up position in the gauze to the bottom piece and completes the other half of the interlace with weft PKISB and pile warp P3 to weave the gauze to the bottom piece to the ground of the bottom piece and thus form a similar rm foundation for the gauze to the bottom piece, thus the weaving of all the warps with wefts PKlSA and PKISB is completed.

By the reverse movement of the shuttles S and S to lay respectively wefts PK19A and PK19B, ground Warp A is held in the'down position and ground warp A is held in the up position in the top piece, and ground warp B is held in the up position and ground warp B' is held in the down position in the bottom piece. Gauze warps Y and Y do not weave with weft PK19A in the gauze to the top piece, and gauze warps Z and Z do not weave with weft PK19B in the gauze to the bottom piece. Pile warp P1 is held in the down position in the bottom piece and pile warp PZ is held in the up position in the top piece. Pile warp P3 is held in the dwell in the gauze to the bottom piece and pile warp P4 is held in the dwell by the gauze to the top piece. Pile warp P5 is held in the up position in the top piece and pile warp P6 is held in the down position in the bottom piece to thus complete the weaving of all warps with wefts PK19A and PK19B.

By the reverse movement of the shuttles S and S to lay respectively Wefts PKZA and PKZUB, ground warps A and A do not Weave with weft PKZQA in the top piece, and ground warps B and B do not weave with weft PKZB in the bottom piece. Gauze warp Y is held in the up position and gauze warp Y is held in the down position in the gauze to the top piece, and gauze warp Z is held in the up position and gauze warp Z is held in the down position in the gauze to the bottom piece. Pile warp P1 does not weave with weft PKZOB in the bottom piece and pile warp P2 does not weave with weft PKZtlA in the top piece. Pile Warp P3 is held in the down position in the gauze to the bottom piece and pile warp P4 y is held in the up position in the gauze to the top piece. Pile warp P5 does not weave with weft PKZA in the top piece and pile Warp P6 does not weave with weft PKZGB in the bottom piece, thus the Weaving of all warps with wefts PK20A and PKZGB is completed.

By the reverse movement of shuttles S and S to lay respectively Wefts PK21A and PKZIB, ground warp A is held in the up position and ground warp A is held in the down position in the top piece, and ground Warp B is held in the down position and ground warp B is held in the up position in the bottom piece. Gauze warps Y and Y do not weave with weft PKZlA in the gauze to the top piece, and gauze warps Z and Z do not weave with weft PKZIB in the bottom piece. Pile warp P1 is held in the up position in the bottom piece and pile warp P2 is held in the down position in the bottom piece. Pile Warp P3 is held in the center position during its transfer from the gauze of the bottom piece to the gauze ofthe top piece. Pile warp P4 is held in the center position when being passed from the gauze of the top piece to the gauze of the bottom piece. Pile warp P5 is held in the down position in the top piece and pile warp P6 is held in the up position in the bottom piece, thus complating the Weaving of all warps with wefts PK21A and PKZIB.

By the reverse movement of shuttles S and S to lay respectively Wefts PK22A and PK22B, ground warps A and A' do not 'weave with weft PK22A in the top piece,

and ground warps B and B do not weave with weft PK22B in the bottom piece. Gauze warp Y is held in the down position and gauze Warp Y' is held in the up position in the gauze to'the top piece, and gauze warp Z is held in the down position and gauze warp Z' is held in the up position in the gauze to the bottom piece. Pile Warp P1 does not weave with weft PK22B in the bottom piee. Pile warp P1 does not weave with weft PK22B in the bottom piece and pile lwarp P2 does not weave with weft PK22A in thetop piece. Pile'warp P3 is held in the up position in the gauze to the top piece and pile warp P4 is held in the down position in the gauze to the bottom piece. Pile warp P5 does not weave with weft PK22A in the top piece and pile warp P6 does not weave with weft PK22B in the bottom piece, to thus complete the weaving of all the warps with wefts PK22A and PK22B.

By the reverse movement of shuttles S and S to lay respectively wefts PKZSA and PK23B, ground warp A is held in the down position and ground warp A is held in the up position in the top piece, and ground warp B is held in the up position and ground warp B' is held in the down position in the bottom piece. Gauze warps Y and Y do not weave with weft PK23A in the gauze t0 the top piece, and gauze warps Z and Z do not weave with weft PK23B in the gauze to the bottom piece. Pile warp P1 is held in the down position in the bottom piece and pile warp P2 is held in the up position in the top piece. Pile warp P3 is held in the dwell by the gauze to the top piece and pile warp P4 is held in the dwell by the gauze to the bottom piece, thus the weaving of all warps with wefts PK23A and PKZSB is completed.

By the reverse movement of the shuttles S and S' to lay respectively wefts PK24A and PK24B, ground warps A and A do not weave with weft PK24A in the top piece, and ground warps B and B do not weave with weft PK24B in the bottom piece. Gauze warp Y is held in the up position and gauze Warp Y is held in the down position in the gauze to the top piece, and gauze warp Z is held in the up position and gauze Warp Z is held in the down position in the gauze to the bottom piece. Pile warp P1 does not weave with weft PK24B since it is in the process of being transferred from the bottom to the top piece and is held in the center position over weft PK24B and under PK24A. Pile Warp P2 does not weave with weft PK24A during its transfer from the top piece t0 the bottom piece, and is held in the center position under weft PK24A and over weft PK24B. Pile warp P3 is held in the down position in the gauze to the top piece to form one half of the interlace with weft PK24A and pile Warp P5. Pile warp P4 is held in the up position in the gauze to the bottom piece to form one half of the interlace with weft PK24B and pile warp P6. Pile warp P5 is held in the down position in the gauze to the top piece and completes the other half of the interlace with weft PK24A and pile Warp P3 to Weave the gauze to the top piece to the ground of thetop piece and thus form the desired firm foundation for the gauze to the top piece. Pile warp P6 is held in the up position in the gauze to the bottom plee and completes the other half of the interlace with weft PK24B and pile warp P4 to weave the gauze to the bottom piece to the ground of the bottom piece and thus form a lrm foundation for the gauze to the bottom piece, thus the weaving of all warps with wefts PK24A and PK24B is completed.

Accordingly, the cycle of the repeat of the weave is accomplished and all warps are in the same position that they originally occupied during the laying of wefts PKlA and PKlB. It will be noted that the short pile warps P1 and P2 have been weaving in a regular six pick two harness arrangement, having a two and one binder arrangement for the ground Weave for both the top and bottom pieces. Furthermore, the long pile warps P3, P4, P5 and P6 have been Weaving in a twelve pick four harness arrangement, with each tuft of the six pick weave accompanying a tuft of the twelve pick weave. As will be appreciated, the use of the six pick weave and the twelve pick weave, as previously mentioned, follows the removal of the gauze and pull-out wefts.

It will be understood that in the absence of a rm interlock, the Wefts would have ditliculty in holding the long pile ends in the center of the pieces, across their respective widths, taut or as taut as the ends are held on the sides where the selvages are supported by the selvage holders. lf not held rm in the center, pile will be cut shorter in certain areas because of the sag in the weft caused by the tension of thelong pile yarn. Additional means such as extra warp threads to hold these wefts as supports in the center would necessitate extra harnesses in the loom which are not only more diiiicult to run, 'but also result in a slowing down of the weaving operation. Quite obviously, my invention provides a rlm interlacng, and accordingly avoids sagging inthe weft.

In view of the foregoing, it should be apparent that it is now possible by means of my invention to weave two different weaves in the same piece at the same time. Under such circumstances, a weave can be employed to produce compactness resembling the line short body down of natural fur along with a weave to produce the long open guard liber of the fur. For example, a fine, soft 22V f ing subsequent to said cutting removing the two sets of wefts from said grounds.

SVThe invention in accordance with claim 1 including during said dwell interlacing said wefts with said pile yarn to form a rm foundation for tensioning said pile yarn between said grounds.

wool can be employed in one case while the other may v constitute a mono-filament nylon, rayon, mohair or coarse wool. In any event, my invention is not dependent upon or restricted to lany particular type of ber used in the making of the yarns whether twisted, curled, textured, plain woolen spun, worsted spun, cotton spun or other system.

Thus, I have accomplished the production of two or more lengths of pile, notwithstanding the type of yarn employed. As will be apparent from the foregoing, I may combine certain weaves in the same piece to obtain dilierent lengths of pile while having thesame amount of delivery of yarn. In vthis connection, I can utilize a U weave having two picks to the repeat of the-weave together with a six or eight pick W weave. Both ont' these weaves would require approximately the same amount of delivery of pile yarn but `would result in a difference of about double the respectivey lengths of pile produced by the six pick weave as compared to the two pick weave. In the event that a double set of delivery rollers are found to lbe necessary, those skilled-in the -art are well aware of their incorporation into the presently known looms in which two pieces are woven face to face at the same time. in this connection, each set of pile delivery rollers is usually independently driven through the line of gearing from the looms conventional perpendicular shaft driven by the worm gear of the crank shaft. Each set of delivery rollers ordinarly has its own change gears which permit the desired amount of pile yarn to be regu lated and delivered. In addition, it should be understood that the ground weave employed is in no sense limited to that disclosed but may encompass, as for example, the well-known two for one backing weave.

Thus, the numerous aforementioned objects and advantages, amo-ng others are most effectively attained. Al-

. though several embodiments have `been specifically disclosed, they `are in no sense limiting and the present invention will be deined by the scope of the appended claims.

l claim: u

l. in the manufacture of cut pile fabrics having more than one height of cut pile in a loom adapted to simultaneously weave a top and bo-ttom ground vface to face, the steps which include laying the top and bottom ground spaced from one another, laying two sets of wefts between the'l grounds and in planes substantially parallel with the grounds and spaced from one another in a direction normal to the grounds, interlacing pi1e-formng yarns to both of` the grounds, providing a dwell of the pile-forming yarns as they are transferred from one grou-nd to the other for increasing the effective length of such yarns between said grounds as they are transferred lfrom one f ground to the other, interlacing other pile forming yarns, to both of the grounds such that the length of such 4. The invention in accordance with claim l wherein the wefts in one plane are laid in staggered relationship with respect to the wefts in the adjacent ground and in alignment with the weits in the other plane -w-arpwise of the fabric.

5. The invention in accordancewith claim l wherein the heights of cut pile extending from one ground correspond to the heights of pile in the other ground.

6. The invention in accordance with claim l wherein the interlacing of certain of said pile-forming yarn is accomplished by one weave and the interlacing of other pile-forming yarn is accomplished by a second weave.

7. In the manufacture 0f cut pile fabrics having more than one height of cut pile in a loom adapted to simultaneously weave atop and bottom ground face to face, the

eps of laying the top and bottom ground spaced from one another, laying two sets of wefts between the grounds and in planes substantially parallel with the grounds and spaced from one another in a direction normal to the grounds, securing a first pile-forming warp to one of said grounds, looping said rst pile-forming warp about at least one weft in the plane adjacent said one gro-undY to provide a dwell of said rst pile-forming warp, interlacing said rst pile-forming warp to the other said ground, concurrently with the securing and interlacing of said lirst pile-forming warp to said grounds securing another pile-forming warp to one of said grounds and directly interlac'ing it with the other of said grounds free from said wefts of both grounds, and cutting the interlacing pile warp between the grounds.

8. The invention in accordance with claim 7 including rior to interlacing said first pile forming wmp to said other ground, looping said first pi1e-forrning warp about at least one weft of the plane adjacent said other ground to provide a further dwell of said iirst pile-forming warp. 9. The invention in accordance with claim 7 wherein a complementary cycle of securing, looping and interlacing is similarly performed in transferring said pile-forming warps from said other ground to said one ground.

10. The invention in accordance with claim 7 wherein a plurality of said pile-forming warps are similarly woven to said grounds to provide cut pile distributed substantially equally throughout each ground composed of at least two diierent lengths of pile with the dwell providing the highest pile extending from each groundv a distanceV substantially in excess of one-half the distance separating the grounds at the weaving point while said wefts remain between the grounds. y i 4 ll. In the manufacture of cut pile fabrics having more than one height of cut pile Vin a loom adapted to simultaneously weave a topv and bottom gro-und face to face, the steps of laying the top and bottom ground spaced from one another, laying two sets of wefts in planes substantially parallel with the grounds and spaced from one another in a direction normal to the grounds, interlacing tirst pileforming yarns to both of the grounds, providing a dwell of the lirst pile-forming yarns by loopingsaid lirst pileforming yarns about at least one weft in the plane adjacent one of said grounds as they are transferred from one ground to the other for increasing the effective length of such yarns between said grounds as they are transferred from one ground to the other, interlacing other pile-forming yarns to both of the grounds such that the length of such other yarns between said grounds as they are transferred from one ground to the other is less than said effective iength, and cutting the interlacing pile yarns between the grounds.

12. The invention in accordance with claim ll wherein said rst pile-forming yarns interlace with said wefts to firmly interlock said Wefts to avoid sagging in said wefts. 13. The invention in accordance with claim 7 wherein a complementary securing, looping, and interlacing of pile forming warps is similarly performed in transferring a second pile forming warp complementing said rst pile 5 forming Warp and another pile forming warp complementing said other pile forming Warp from said other ground to said one ground.

Kaufman Feb. 4, 1936 Wilson June 9, 1936 15 24 Drobile Oct. 12, 1937 Kubicky Feb. 15, 1938 fFonda June 28, 1938 Vetterlein May 6, 1941 Kaufman Oct. 6, 1942 Keen May 4, 1943 Faber Mar. 6, 1945 De Mestral Sept. 13, 1955 Karpoff Apr. 28, 1959 FOREIGN PATENTS Great Britain of 1894 Great Britain Apr. 9, 1931

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