WO2017148973A1 - Composition comprising a thickening polymer, a derivative of menthol and a particular non-ionic surfactant - Google Patents

Composition comprising a thickening polymer, a derivative of menthol and a particular non-ionic surfactant Download PDF

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WO2017148973A1
WO2017148973A1 PCT/EP2017/054692 EP2017054692W WO2017148973A1 WO 2017148973 A1 WO2017148973 A1 WO 2017148973A1 EP 2017054692 W EP2017054692 W EP 2017054692W WO 2017148973 A1 WO2017148973 A1 WO 2017148973A1
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weight
chosen
composition
composition according
copolymers
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PCT/EP2017/054692
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French (fr)
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Sarish JOSHI
Dhimoy ROY
Maxime De Boni
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L'oreal
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    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/34Alcohols
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/81Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions involving only carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/8141Compositions of homopolymers or copolymers of compounds having one or more unsaturated aliphatic radicals, each having only one carbon-to-carbon double bond, and at least one being terminated by only one carboxyl radical, or of salts, anhydrides, esters, amides, imides or nitriles thereof; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
    • A61K8/8147Homopolymers or copolymers of acids; Metal or ammonium salts thereof, e.g. crotonic acid, (meth)acrylic acid; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00Preparations for care of the skin
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00Preparations for care of the hair

Abstract

The present invention relates to a composition comprising in a hydro-alcoholic medium a thickening polymer, a derivative of menthol and a particular non-ionic surfactant. The present invention also relates to a method of cosmetic treatment wherein such a composition is applied on keratin substrates. Finally the present invention relates to the use of such a composition for conferring a feeling of freshness and cleanliness to keratin substrates, and in particular to human keratin substrates, such as the skin, the scalp and the hair.

Description

Composition comprising a thickening polymer, a derivative of menthol and a particular non-ionic surfactant
The present invention relates to a composition comprising in a hydro-alcoho lic medium a thickening polymer, a derivative of mentho l and a particular non-ionic surfactant.
The present invention also relates to a method of cosmetic treatment wherein such a composition is applied on keratin substrates.
Finally the present invention relates to the use o f such a composition for conferring a feeling o f freshness and cleanliness to keratin substrates, and in particular to human keratin substrates such as the skin, the scalp and the hair.
The hair and the scalp are generally damaged and embrittled by the action o f external atmospheric agents such as light and bad weather, external aggression such as pollution, and also by mechanical or chemical treatments, such as brushing, combing, dyeing, bleaching, permanent-waving and/or relaxing. These damages can induce an increased sebum secretion by the scalp .
Furthermore, in certain circumstances such as under sun or hamam exposures, the keratin substrates, such as the skin and the scalp, are likely to sweat, leading to sebum secretion. An excess o f sebum secretion on the scalp renders the hair greasy and decreases its cosmetic and styling properties, such as its appearance and manageability.
In addition, the presence o f sebum reduces the freshness perceived on the scalp and the hair and provides a sensation o f oily feel.
This greasy aspect of the hair is also a nuisance from an aesthetic point of view for the consumers . In particular, the hair looks lank and heavy.
Therefore, there is a real need to develop compositions that are able to reduce the quantity o f sebum present on the skin, the hair or the scalp . These compositions shall remedy the drawbacks mentioned above, and shall confer good styling properties, such as a good manageability, to the hair, and provide a fresh and comfortable feel to the scalp or the skin.
The Applicant has now discovered that a composition, comprising in a hydro-alcoho lic medium a thickening polymer, a derivative o f mentho l and a particular non-ionic surfactant, makes it possible to achieve the obj ectives outlined above.
In particular, it has been found that such a combination is able to significantly reduce the quantity o f sebum on the scalp, for example post hamam exposure, decreasing thus the oily feel on scalp and hair and leading to a better manageability and a better styling of the hair.
Thus, the subj ect o f the invention is especially a composition comprising
- one or more thickening polymer(s),
- one or more compound(s) of formula (I)
Figure imgf000003_0001
wherein, Ri denotes a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, C 1 -C 12 alkyl radical, optionally substituted by one or more hydroxyl groups, and/or one or more NRR ' groups with R and R ' , identical or different, denoting a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, C 1 - C4 alkyl radical,
- one or more non-ionic surfactant(s) chosen from oxyalkylenated C8 - C30 fatty alcoho ls,
- one or more water-soluble organic so lvent(s) chosen from alcoho ls comprising a C i -Cs alkyl chain, and
- water.
The composition o f the present invention is able to reduce the quantity o f sebum on the skin and the scalp . In other words, the composition adsorbs the sebum and decreases the greasy feel perceived on the scalp . It leads to a fresh and clean sensation and a sustained cooling and soothing on the skin and the scalp .
The composition according to the present invention preferably aims at a leave-on application on the hair and on the scalp, which results in better manageability, and a cleaner feel when in contact with keratinous substrate along with substantial cooling o f the dermal layer supporting the keratinous substrate and sebum absorption.
Preferably, the composition according to the present invention is a cleansing agent that can be used as a leave-on product, having good sebum absorption property together with a substantial cooling effect, which then conducts to an important feeling o f cleanliness and freshness on the scalp and the hair, after application.
In particular, the composition according to the present invention decreases the warm feeling on the scalp and on the hair. The feeling of freshness is significant, and is of the order of 7°C directly after application.
In addition, hair treated with the composition o f the present invention is lighter, more manageable and easier to style. Its appearance is improved; the hair looks less greasy and shinier.
The composition also helps to protect the hair against external aggression such as pollution.
The present invention also relates to a method of cosmetic treatment of keratin substrates, in particular human keratin substrates such as the skin, the scalp and the hair, wherein the cosmetic composition o f the invention is applied on said keratin substrates.
Another obj ect of the present invention concerns the use o f the composition o f the present invention for conferring a feeling o f freshness and cleanliness to keratin substrates, and in particular to human keratin substrates such as the skin, the scalp and the hair.
Other subj ects, characteristics, aspects and advantages o f the invention will emerge even more clearly on reading the description and the example that follows. In that which fo llows and unless otherwise indicated, the limits of a range of values are included within this range, in particular in the expressions "of between" and "ranging from ... to
Moreover, the expression " at least one" used in the present description is equivalent to the expression "one or more" .
Thickening polymers
The composition according to the present invention comprises one or more thickening polymer(s) .
The term "thickening polymer" is understood to mean, within the meaning o f the present invention, a polymer capable, by its presence, o f increasing the viscosity o f the medium by at least 50 centipoises at 25 °C and at a shear rate of 1 s" 1 . Preferably, the solution obtained by dissolving the thickening polymer at 1 % by weight in water or in a 50/50 by weight water/alcohol mixture exhibits a viscosity at 25 °C and at a shear rate of 1 s" 1 which is greater than 1 00 centipoises . These viscosities can be measured using in particular viscometers or rheometers having cone-plate geometry.
Preferably, the thickening polymer(s) are chosen from the thickening polymers comprising acrylic and/or methacrylic units.
The term "polymer comprising acrylic and/or methacrylic units" is understood to mean, within the meaning o f the present invention, a polymer resulting from the polymerization o f one or more monomers including one or more monomers of structure (II) :
Figure imgf000005_0001
Pvi denoting a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched C 1 - C4 alkyl radical,
P 2 denoting a hydrogen atom, a hydroxy radical, a linear or branched C 1 - C4 alkyl radical, an NR3 R4 radical or a linear or branched C 1 - C30 alkoxy radical, optionally substituted by one or more hydroxyl radicals or by a quaternary ammonium radical, R3 and R4 denoting a hydrogen atom or an optionally oxyalkylenated C 1 - C30 alkyl radical, it being po ssible for the alkyl radical to comprise a sulfonic group .
Preferably, Ri denotes a hydro gen atom or a methyl radical .
The thickening polymer(s) is (are) preferably chosen fro m thickening polymers comprising acrylic and/or methacrylic units, and more preferably from:
(a) acrylic associative thickeners,
(b) crosslinked acrylic acid homopolymers and copolymers,
(c) crosslinked copolymers o f (meth)acrylic acid and o f (C i - C6)alkyl acrylate,
(d) non-ionic homopolymers and copolymers comprising ethylenically unsaturated monomers o f ester and/or amide type,
(e) ammonium acrylate homopolymers or copolymers o f ammonium acrylate and of acrylamide,
(f) (meth)acrylamido(C i -C4)alkylsulfonic acid homopolymers and copolymers ,
(g) crosslinked methacryloylo xy(C i -C4)alkyltri(C i -C4)alkylammonium homopolymers and copolymers, and
(h) mixtures thereof.
(a) The thickening polymers can preferably be chosen fro m acrylic associative thickeners .
The term " associative thickener" is understoo d to mean, according to the invention, an amphiphilic thickener comprising both hydrophilic units and hydrophobic units, in particular comprising at least one C 8 - C30 fatty chain and at least one hydrophilic unit .
Mention may be made, as acrylic associative thickeners which can be used in the composition according to the invention, o f acrylic associative po lymers chosen from:
(i) non-ionic amphiphilic polymers comprising at least one fatty chain and at least one hydrophilic unit ;
(ii) anionic amphiphilic polymers comprising at least one hydrophilic unit and at least one unit having a fatty chain; (iii) cationic amphiphilic polymers comprising at least one hydrophilic unit and at least one unit having a fatty chain;
(iv) amphoteric amphiphilic polymers comprising at least one hydrophilic unit and at least one unit having a fatty chain;
the fatty chains having from 8 to 30 carbon atoms.
(i) The acrylic associative polymers may preferably be chosen from non-ionic amphiphilic polymers comprising at least one fatty chain and at least one hydrophilic unit; the fatty chains having from 8 to 30 carbon atoms.
These non-ionic amphiphilic polymers can preferably be chosen from:
- copolymers of Ci-C6 alkyl methacrylates or acrylates and of amphiphilic monomers comprising at least one fatty chain (for example oxyethylenated (Cs-C22)alkyl acrylates), such as, for example, the oxyethylenated methyl methacrylate/stearyl acrylate copolymer sold by Goldschmidt under the name Antil 208; and
- copolymers of hydrophilic methacrylates or acrylates and of hydrophobic monomers comprising at least one fatty chain (for example (C8-C22)alkyl (meth)acrylates), such as, for example, polyethylene glycol methacrylate/lauryl methacrylate copolymer.
(ii) The acrylic associative polymers may preferably be chosen from anionic amphiphilic polymers comprising at least one hydrophilic unit and at least one unit having a fatty chain; the fatty chains having from 8 to 30 carbon atoms.
These anionic amphiphilic polymers can be chosen from those comprising at least one hydrophilic unit of unsaturated olefinic carboxylic acid type and at least one hydrophobic unit of unsaturated carboxylic acid (Cio-C3o)alkyl ester type. They are preferably chosen from those for which the hydrophilic unit of unsaturated olefinic carboxylic acid type corresponds to the monomer of following formula (III):
Figure imgf000008_0001
in which, R3 denotes H or CH3 or C2H5, that is to say acrylic acid, methacrylic acid or ethacrylic acid units, and for which the hydrophobic unit of unsaturated carboxylic acid (Cio-C3o)alkyl ester type corresponds to the monomer of following formula (IV):
Figure imgf000008_0002
in which, R4 denotes H or CH3 or C2H5 (that is to say acrylate, methacrylate or ethacrylate units) and preferably H (acrylate units) or CH3 (methacrylate units), R5 denoting a Cio-C3o and preferably C12-C22 alkyl radical.
(Cio-C3o)alkyl esters of unsaturated carboxylic acids in accordance with the invention comprise, for example, lauryl acrylate, stearyl acrylate, decyl acrylate, isodecyl acrylate and dodecyl acrylate, and the corresponding methacrylates, lauryl methacrylate, stearyl methacrylate, decyl methacrylate, isodecyl methacrylate and dodecyl methacrylate.
Anionic amphiphilic polymers of this type are, for example, described and prepared according to Patents US-3 915 921 and US-4 509949.
The anionic amphiphilic polymers which can be used in the context of the present invention can more particularly denote polymers formed from a mixture of monomers comprising:
acrylic acid and one or more esters of following formula (V):
Figure imgf000008_0003
(V) in which, R6 denotes H or CH3 , R7 denoting an alkyl radical having from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, and a crosslinking agent, such as, for example, those constituted of from 95 % to 60% by weight of acrylic acid (hydrophilic unit), 4% to 40%> by weight of C 10 - C30 alkyl acrylate (hydrophobic unit) and 0%> to 6%> by weight of crosslinking polymerizable monomer, or 98% to 96% by weight of acrylic acid (hydrophilic unit), 1 % to 4% by weight of C 10 - C30 alkyl acrylate (hydrophobic unit) and 0. 1 % to 0.6% by weight o f crosslinking polymerizable monomer, and
- essentially acrylic acid and lauryl methacrylate, such as the product formed from 66% by weight o f acrylic acid and 34% by weight o f lauryl methacrylate.
The said crosslinking agent is a monomer comprising a
CH2 = C\
group with at least one other polymerizable group, the unsaturated bonds o f which are non-conjugated with respect to one another. Mention may in particular be made o f po lyallyl ethers, such as, in particular, polyallyl sucrose and polyallyl pentaerythrito l.
Among the said polymers above, preference is very particularly given, according to the present invention, to the products so ld by Goodrich under the trade names Pemulen TR1 , Pemulen TR2 and Carbopol 1382, and more preferably still Pemulen TR 1 , and to the product sold by S .E .P . C . under the name Coatex SX.
Mention may also be made, as anionic amphiphilic polymers having fatty chains, o f the copolymer of methacrylic acid, methyl acrylate and dimethyl-meta-isopropenylbenzyl isocyanate o f ethoxylated alcoho l so ld under the name Viscophobe DB 1000 by Amercho l.
Mention may be made, as other anionic amphiphilic polymers having fatty chains, o f those comprising at least one acrylic monomer having sulfonic group(s), in free or partially or completely neutralized form, and comprising at least one hydrophobic portion.
The hydrophobic portion present in the polymers of the invention preferably comprises from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, more preferably still from 8 to 1 8 carbon atoms and more particularly from 12 to 1 8 carbon atoms.
Preferably, the sulfonic polymers in accordance with the invention are partially or completely neutralized by an inorganic base (sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide or aqueous ammonia) or an organic base, such as mono-, di- or triethano lamine, an aminomethylpropanedio l, N-methylglucamine, basic amino acids, such as arginine and lysine, and mixtures of these compounds .
The sulfonic amphiphilic polymers in accordance with the present invention generally have a number-average mo lecular weight ranging from 1000 to 20 000 000 g/mo l, preferably ranging from 20 000 to 5 000 000 g/mo l and more preferably still ranging from 100 000 to 1 500 000 g/mo l.
The sulfonic amphiphilic polymers according to the invention may or may not be crosslinked. Crosslinked amphiphilic po lymers are preferably chosen.
When they are crosslinked, the crosslinking agents can be chosen from polyo lefinically unsaturated compounds commonly used for the crosslinking o f po lymers obtained by radical polymerization. Mention may be made, for examp le, of divinylbenzene, diallyl ether, dipropylene glyco l diallyl ether, polyglycol diallyl ethers, triethylene glyco l divinyl ether, hydroquinone diallyl ether, ethylene glyco l di(meth)acrylate or tetraethylene glyco l di(meth)acrylate, trimethylo lpropane triacrylate, methylenebisacrylamide, methylenebismethacrylamide, triallylamine, triallyl cyanurate, diallyl maleate, tetraallylethylenediamine, tetraallyloxyethane, trimethylo lpropane diallyl ether, allyl (meth)acrylate, allyl ethers o f alcoho ls o f the sugar series, or other allyl or vinyl ethers o f polyfunctional alcoho ls, and also allyl esters o f phosphoric and/or vinylpho sphonic acid derivatives, or mixtures of these compounds .
Methylenebisacrylamide, allyl methacrylate or trimethylo lpropane triacrylate (TMPTA) will more particularly be used. The degree o f crosslinking will generally vary from 0.0 1 mo l% to 10 mo l% and more particularly from 0.2 mo l% to 2 mo l%, with respect to the polymer.
The acrylic monomers having sulfonic group(s) are chosen in particular from (meth)acrylamido(C i - C22)alkylsulfonic acids and N- (C i - C22)alkyl(meth)acrylamido(C i - C22)alkylsulfonic acids, such as undecylacrylamidomethanesulfonic acid, and also their partially or completely neutralized forms .
More preferably, use will be made o f (meth)acrylamido(C i - C22)alkylsulfonic acids, such as, for examp le, acrylamidomethanesulfonic acid, acrylamidoethanesulfonic acid, acrylamidopropanesulfonic acid, 2-acrylamido-2- methylpropanesulfonic acid, methacrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid, 2-acrylamido-n-butanesulfonic acid, 2-acrylamido-2,4,4- trimethylpentanesulfonic acid, 2-methacrylamidododecylsulfonic acid or 2-acrylamido-2,6-dimethyl-3 -heptanesulfonic acid, and also their partially or completely neutralized forms .
More particularly, use can be made of 2-acrylamido-2- methylpropanesulfonic acid (AMPS®), and also its partially or completely neutralized forms .
The amphiphilic polymers in accordance with the invention can in particular be chosen from random amphiphilic AMPS® polymers modified by reaction with an n-mono(C6 - C22)alkylamine or a di[n-(C6- C22)alkyl] amine, such as those described in Patent Application WO 00/3 1 154; the polymers described in this patent application form part of the content of the present description. These polymers can also comprise other ethylenically unsaturated hydrophilic monomers chosen, for examp le, from (meth)acrylic acids, their β-substituted alkyl derivatives or their esters obtained with monoalcohols or mono- or polyalkylene glyco ls, (meth)acrylamides, vinylpyrrolidone, maleic anhydride, itaconic acid or maleic acid, or mixtures o f these compounds.
The polymers o f the invention can be chosen from amphiphilic copolymers o f AMPS® and o f at least one ethylenically unsaturated hydrophobic monomer comprising at least one hydrophobic portion having from 8 to 50 carbon atoms, more preferably from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, more preferably still from 8 to 18 carbon atoms and more particularly from 12 to 18 carbon atoms.
These same copolymers can additionally comprise one or more ethylenically unsaturated monomers not comprising a fatty chain, such as (meth)acrylic acids, their β-substituted alkyl derivatives or their esters obtained with monoalcohols or mono- or polyalkylene glycols, (meth)acrylamides, vinylpyrrolidone, maleic anhydride, itaconic acid or maleic acid, or mixtures of these compounds.
These copolymers are described in particular in Patent
Application EP-A-750 899, in Patent US 5 089 578 and in the following Yotaro Morishima publications:
- "Self-assembling amphiphilic polyelectrolytes and their nanostructures", Chinese Journal of Polymer Science, Vol. 18, No.40, (2000), 323-336;
- "Micelle formation of random copolymers of sodium 2- (acrylamido)-2-methylpropanesulfonate and a non-ionic surfactant macromonomer in water as studied by fluorescence and dynamic light scattering", Macromolecules, 2000, Vol.33, No. 10, 3694-3704;
- "Solution properties of micelle networks formed by non-ionic moieties covalently bound to a polyelectrolyte: salt effects on rheological behavior", Langmuir, 2000, Vol. 16, No. 12, 5324-5332;
- "Stimuli responsive amphiphilic copolymers of sodium 2- (acrylamido)-2-methylpropanesulfonate and associative macromonomers", Polym. Preprint, Div. Polym. Chem., 1999, 40(2), 220-221.
The ethylenically unsaturated hydrophobic monomers of these specific copolymers are preferably chosen from the acrylates or acrylamides of following formula (VI):
Figure imgf000013_0001
in which, Rs and Rio, which are identical or different, denote a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched Ci-C6 alkyl radical (preferably methyl); Y denotes O or NH; R9 denotes a hydrophobic hydrocarbon radical comprising at least from 8 to 50 carbon atoms, more preferably from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, more preferably still from 6 to 18 carbon atoms and more particularly from 12 to 18 carbon atoms; and x denotes a number of moles of alkylene oxide and varies from 0 to 100.
The R9 radical is preferably chosen from linear C6-Ci8 (for example n-hexyl, n-octyl, n-decyl, n-hexadecyl or n-dodecyl) alkyl radicals or branched or cyclic (for example cyclododecane (C12) or adamantane (C10)) alkyl radicals; C6-Ci8 perfluoroalkyl radicals (for example the group of formula -(CH2)2-(CF2)9-CF3); the cholesteryl (C27) radical or a cholesterol ester residue, such as the cholesteryl oxyhexanoate group; or polycyclic aromatic groups, such as naphthalene or pyrene. Preference is more particularly given, among these radicals, to linear alkyl radicals and more particularly to the n- dodecyl radical.
According to a particularly preferred form of the invention, the monomer of formula (VI) comprises at least one alkylene oxide unit (x > 1) and preferably a polyoxyalkylene chain. The polyoxyalkylene chain preferably consists of ethylene oxide units and/or of propylene oxide units and more particularly still consists of ethylene oxide units. The number of oxyalkylene units generally varies from 3 to 100, more preferably from 3 to 50 and more preferably still from 7 to 25.
Mention may be made, among these polymers, of: - copolymers which are or are not crosslinked and which are or are not neutralized, comprising from 15% to 60% by weight of AMPS® units and from 40%> to 85% by weight of (C8-Ci6)alkyl(meth)acrylamide units or of Cs-Ci6)alkyl (meth)acrylate units, with respect to the polymer, such as those described in Application EP-A-750899; and
- terpolymers comprising from 10 mol% to 90 mol% of acrylamide units, from 0.1 mol% to 10 mol% of AMPS® units and from 5 mol% to 80 mol% of n-(C6-Ci8)alkylacrylamide units, such as those described in Patent US-5089578.
Mention may also be made of copolymers of completely neutralized AMPS® and of dodecyl methacrylate, and also non- crosslinked and crosslinked copolymers of AMPS® and of n- dodecylmethacrylamide, such as those described in the abovementioned papers by Morishima.
Mention will more particularly be made of the copolymers constituted of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid (AMPS®) units of following formula (VII):
Figure imgf000014_0001
in which, X+ is a proton, an alkali metal cation, an alkaline earth metal cation or the ammonium ion,
and of units of following formula (VIII):
Figure imgf000015_0001
in which, x denotes an integer varying from 3 to 100, preferably from 5 to 80 and more preferably from 7 to 25 , Rn has the same meaning as that indicated above for Rs in the formula (VI) and R12 denotes a linear or branched C6 - C22 and more preferably C 10 - C22 alkyl.
The polymers which are particularly preferred are those for which x = 25 , Rn denotes methyl and R 12 represents n-dodecyl; they are described in the abovementioned papers by Morishima.
The polymers for which X+ denotes sodium or ammonium are more particularly preferred.
(iii) The acrylic associative thickeners may preferably be chosen from cationic amphiphilic polymers comprising at least one hydrophilic unit and at least one unit having a fatty chain; the fatty chains having from 10 to 30 carbon atoms .
The cationic amphiphilic polymers which can be used in the composition according to the present invention are preferably chosen from polyacrylates having aminated side groups.
The polyacrylates having quaternized or non-quaternized aminated side groups possess, for examp le, hydrophobic groups o f the steareth-20 (polyoxyethylenated (20) stearyl alcoho l) or ( C i o - C3 o)alkyl PEG-20 itaconate type.
Mention may be made, as examples o f po lyacrylates having aminated side chains, o f the polymers 878 1 - 124B or 9492- 103 or Structure Plus from National Starch.
(iv) The acrylic associative polymers may preferably be chosen from amphoteric amphiphilic polymers comprising at least one hydrophilic unit and at least one unit having a fatty chain; the fatty chains having from 10 to 30 carbon atoms.
Among these amphoteric amphiphilic polymers, mention may be made of methacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride/acrylic acid/Cio-C3o alkyl methacrylate copolymers, the alkyl radical preferably being a stearyl radical.
(b) The thickening polymers can preferably be chosen from crosslinked acrylic acid homopolymers.
Among these crosslinked acrylic acid homopolymers, mention may be made of those crosslinked by an ally 1 ether of an alcohol of the sugar series, such as, for example, the products sold under the names Carbopol, 910, 934, 940, 941, 934 P, 980, 981, 2984, 5984 and Carbopol Ultrez 10 Polymer by Lubrizol or the products sold under the names Synthalen M and Synthalen K by 3 VSA, Cosmedia SP® or crosslinked sodium polyacrylate comprising 90% of dry matter and 10%) of water, Cosmedia SPL® or sodium polyacrylate as inverse emulsion comprising approximately 60% of dry active matter, an oil (hydrogenated polydecene) and a surfactant (PPG-5 Laureth-5), both sold by Cognis, or partially neutralized crosslinked sodium polyacrylates occurring in the form of an inverse emulsion comprising at least one polar oil, for example that sold under the name Luvigel® EM by BASF.
(c) The thickening polymers can preferably be chosen from crosslinked copolymers of (meth)acrylic acid and of (Ci-C6)alkyl acrylate.
Among these crosslinked copolymers of (meth)acrylic acid and of (Ci-C6)alkyl acrylate, mention may be made of the product sold under the name Viscoatex 538C by Coatex, which is a crosslinked copolymer of methacrylic acid and of ethyl acrylate as an aqueous dispersion comprising 38% of active material, or the product sold under the name Aculyn 33 by Rohm & Haas, which is a crosslinked copolymer of acrylic acid and of ethyl acrylate as an aqueous dispersion comprising 28% of active material. Mention may more particularly be made of the crosslinked methacrylic acid/ethyl acrylate copolymer in the form of an aqueous 30% dispersion manufactured and sold under the name Carbopol Aqua SF-1 by Noveon.
(d) The thickening polymers can preferably be chosen from non-ionic homopolymers and copolymers comprising ethylenically unsaturated monomers of ester and/or amide type.
Among these non-ionic homopolymers or copolymers comprising ethylenically unsaturated monomers of ester and/or amide type, mention may be made of the products sold under the names of: Cyanamer P250 by Cytec (polyacrylamide); PMMA MBX-8C by US Cosmetics (methyl methacrylate/ethylene glycol dimethacrylate copolymer); Acryloid B66 by Rohm & Haas (butyl methacrylate/methyl methacrylate copolymer); or BPA 500 by Kobo (polymethyl methacrylate).
(e) The thickening polymers can preferably be chosen from ammonium acrylate homopolymers or copolymers of ammonium acrylate and of acrylamide.
Among ammonium acrylate homopolymers, mention may be made of the product sold under the name Microsap PAS 5193 by Hoechst.
Among copolymers of ammonium acrylate and of acrylamide, mention may be made of the product sold under the name Bozepol C Nouveau or the product PAS 5193 sold by Hoechst (they are described and prepared in the documents FR-2 416 723, US-2 798 053 and US-2 923 692).
(f) The thickening polymers can preferably be chosen from
(meth)acrylamido(Ci-C4)alkylsulfonic acid homopolymers and copolymers.
Among these (meth)acrylamido(Ci-C4)alkylsulfonic acid homopolymers and copolymers, preference is preferably given to the use of crosslinked polymers.
More particularly still, they are partially or completely neutralized.
These are water-soluble or water-swellable polymers.
Mention may in particular be made, among these polymers, of: - polyacrylamidomethanesulfonic acid,
- polyacrylamidoethanesulfonic acid,
- polyacrylamidopropanesulfonic acid,
- poly(2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid),
- poly(2-methacrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid),
- poly(2-acrylamido-n-butanesulfonic acid) .
Polymers o f this type and in particular crosslinked and partially or completely neutralized poly(2-acrylamido-2- methylpropanesulfonic acids) are known, described and prepared in Patent Application DE- 196 25 8 10.
They are generally characterized in that they comprise, randomly distributed:
from 90% to 99.9% by weight of units of following formula (IX) :
CH,
NH c CH2SO3
CH,
(IX) in which, X+ denotes a cation or a mixture of cations, including H+, and
- from 0.01 % to 10% by weight of at least one crosslinking unit having at least two olefinic double bonds;
the proportions by weight being defined with respect to the total weight of the polymer.
X+ represents a cation or a mixture of cations chosen in particular from a proton, an alkali metal cation, a cation equivalent to that of an alkaline earth metal, or the ammonium ion.
Preferably, the crosslinked and neutralized poly(2-acrylamido - 2-methylpropanesulfonic acid) comprises from 98%> to 99.5 % by weight of units o f formula (IX) and from 0.5 % to 2% by weight o f crosslinking units.
The crosslinking units having at least two olefinic double bonds are chosen, for example, from dipropylene glyco l diallyl ether, polyglycol diallyl ethers, triethylene glyco l divinyl ether, hydroquinone diallyl ether, tetraallyloxyethane or other polyfunctional alcoho l allyl or vinyl ethers, tetraethylene glyco l diacrylate, triallylamine, trimethylo lpropane diallyl ether, methylenebisacrylamide or divinylbenzene.
The crosslinking units having at least two olefinic double bonds are more particularly still chosen from those corresponding to the fo llowing general formula (X) :
Figure imgf000019_0001
in which, R 1 3 denotes a hydrogen atom or a C 1 - C 4 alkyl and more particularly methyl (trimethylo lpropane triacrylate) .
The acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid (AMPS®) polymers according to the present invention generally have a number- average mo lecular weight ranging from ranging from 50 000 to 10 000 000 g/mo l, and preferably ranging from 80 000 to 8 000 000 g/mo l.
Among these AMPS® polymers, mention may preferably be made of:
- crosslinked sodium acrylamido-2-methyl propane sulfonate polymers, such as for examp le the product sold under the name Simulgel 800 (CTFA name : Sodium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate), crosslinked ammonium acrylamido-2-methyl propane sulfonate polymers, such as for example the polymers described in the patent EP 0 815 928 Bl, or the product sold under the trade name Hostacerin AMPS® by Clariant (INCI name : Ammonium Polydimethyltauramide); - AMPS/acrylamide copolymers, in particular crosslinked acrylamide/ sodium acrylamido-2-methyl propane sulfonate copolymers such as for example the product sold under the name SEPIGEL 305 (INCI name : Polyacrylamide/Ci3-Ci4 Isoparaffin/ Laureth-7) or the product sold under the name Simulgel 600 by Seppic (INCI name : Acrylamide/Sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate/ Isohexadecane/
Polysorbate-80);
- AMPS®/vinylpyrrolidone copolymers or AMPS®/vinylformamide copolymers, such as for example the copolymer used in the product sold under the name Aristoflex AVC® by Clariant (CTFA name : Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/ VP Copolymer) neutralized by sodium carbonate or potassium carbonate;
- AMPS®/sodium acrylate copolymers, such as for example the AMPS/sodium acrylate copolymer used in the product sold under the name Simulgel EG® by Seppic or under the name Sepinov EM (CTFA name: Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer);
- AMPS®/hydroxyethyl acrylate copolymers, such as for example the AMPS®/hydroxyethyl acrylate copolymere used in the product sold under the name Simulgel NS® by Seppic (CTFA name: Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyltaurate copolymer (And) Squalane (And) Polysorbate 60) or the sodium acrylamido-2-methyl propane sulfonate /Hydroxyethylacrylate copolymer sold under the name Sepinov EMT 10 (INCI name: Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer).
(g) The thickening polymers can preferably be chosen from crosslinked methacryloyloxy(Ci-C4)alkyltri(Ci-C4)alkylammonium homopolymers and copolymers.
Among these crosslinked methacryloyloxy(Ci-C4)alkyltri(Ci- C4)alkylammonium homopolymers and copolymers, mention may be made of crosslinked polymers of methacryloyloxy(Ci-C4)alkyltri(Ci- C4)alkylammonium salts, such as the polymers obtained by homopolymerization of dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate quaternized by methyl chloride or by copolymerization o f acrylamide with dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate quaternized by methyl chloride, the homo- or copolymerization being fo llowed by crosslinking by an olefinically unsaturated compound, in particular methylenebisacrylamide.
Use may more particularly be made of a crosslinked acrylamide/methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride (20/80 by weight) copolymer in the form o f a dispersion comprising 50% by weight of the said copolymer in mineral oil. This dispersion is so ld under the name of Salcare® S C 92 by Ciba. Use may also be made of a crosslinked homopolymer o f methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride comprising approximately 50% by weight of the homopolymer in mineral oil or in a liquid ester. These dispersions are so ld under the names of Salcare® SC 95 and Salcare® SC 96 by Ciba.
Preferably, the thickening polymer(s) is (are) chosen from crosslinked acrylic acid homopolymers and copolymers .
The total amount of thickening polymer(s), which is (are) present in the composition according to the present invention, preferably ranges from 0.01 to 5 % by weight, more preferably from 0.02 to 1 % by weight, and better still from 0.05 to 0.5 % by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Compounds of formula (I)
The composition according to the present invention also comprises one or more compound(s) of formula (I)
Figure imgf000021_0001
wherein, Ri denotes a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, C 1 -C 12 alkyl radical, optionally substituted by one or more hydroxyl groups and/or one or more NRR' groups with R and R ' , identical or different, denoting a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, C 1 - C4 alkyl radical.
Preferably, Ri denotes a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, C i -C6 alkyl radical, substituted by one or more hydroxyl groups. More preferably, Ri denotes a linear and saturated C i -C6 alkyl radical, substituted by one or more hydroxyl groups, and better still by one or two hydroxyl groups .
Advantageously, the compound(s) o f formula (I) is (are) chosen from mentho l, menthoxy propanedio l, and mixture thereof.
The total amount o f compound(s) of formula (I), which is (are) present in the composition according to the present invention, preferably ranges from 0.05 to 5 % by weight, and more preferably from 0. 1 to 1 % by weight, relative to the total weight o f the composition.
Non-ionic surfactants
The composition according to the present invention comprises one or more non-ionic surfactant(s) chosen from oxyalkylenated C8 - C30 fatty alcoho ls. These non-ionic surfactants are preferentially chosen from oxyethylenated C 8 - C30 fatty alcoho ls.
The term "fatty alcoho l", according to the present invention, means an alcoho l comprising linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl chain comprising at least 8 carbon atoms.
According to the present invention, an oxyalkylenated fatty alcoho l means a fatty alcoho l comprising at least one oxyalkylenated (alkylene oxide) unit, and an oxyethylenated fatty alcoho l means a fatty alcoho l comprising at least one oxyethylenated (ethylene oxide) unit.
According to the present invention, such a fatty alcoho l comprises from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, more preferably from 10 to 24 carbon atoms and better still from 10 to 18 carbon atoms .
Preferably, the fatty alcoho ls according to the present invention comprise a linear and saturated alkyl chain. The oxyalkylene units are more particularly oxyethylene or oxypropylene units, or a combination thereof, preferably oxyethylene units.
The number of oxyalkylene units, and particularly oxyethylene units, advantageously ranges from 1 to 50, preferably from 2 to 30, more preferably from 5 to 20, and better still from 10 to 15.
The oxyalkylenated C8-C30 fatty alcohol(s) used in the present invention is (are) preferably chosen from oxyethylenated fatty alcohols comprising a Cio-Cis alkyl chain and from 5 to 20 of oxyethylene units, and more preferably from oxyethylenated fatty alcohols comprising a Cio-Cis alkyl chain and from 10 to 15 of oxyethylene units.
More preferably, the oxyalkylenated fatty alcohol is the oxyethylenated lauryl alcohol containing 12 units of ethylene oxide.
The total amount of non-ionic surfactant(s) chosen from oxyalkylenated C8-C30 fatty alcohols, which is (are) present in the composition according to the present invention, preferably ranges from 0.1 to 10% by weight, and more preferably from 0.5 to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
The composition according to the present invention may further comprise one or more additional non-ionic surfactant(s) different from the above-described oxyalkylenated C8-C30 fatty alcohols.
The non-ionic surfactant(s) that may be used in the compositions are described, for example, in the Handbook of Surfactants by M.R. Porter, published by Blackie & Son (Glasgow and London), 1991, pp. 116-178.
Examples of additional non-ionic surfactants that may be mentioned include the following non-ionic surfactants:
- oxyalkylenated (Cs-C24)alkylphenols;
- saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, glycerolated C8-
C30 alcohols, comprising one or two fatty chains;
- saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, oxyalkylenated C8-C30 fatty acid amides; - esters o f saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, C8 - C30 acids and of polyethylene glycols;
- esters o f saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, C8 - C30 acids and of sorbito l, preferably oxyethylenated;
- fatty acid esters of sucrose;
- (C8 - C3 o)alkyl(poly)glucosides, (C8 - C3 o)alkenyl(poly) glucosides, which are optionally oxyalkylenated (0 to 10 oxyalkylene units) and comprising from 1 to 15 glucose units, (C8 -C3o)alkyl (poly)glucoside esters;
- saturated or unsaturated, oxyethylenated plant oils;
- condensates o f ethylene oxide and/or of propylene oxide, inter alia, alone or as mixtures;
- N-(C8 -C3o)alkylglucamine and N-(Cs-C3o) acylmethylglucamine derivatives;
- aldobionamides;
- amine oxides;
- and mixtures thereof.
The oxyalkylene units are more particularly oxyethylene or oxypropylene units, or a combination thereof, preferably oxyethylene units.
The number o f mo les of ethylene oxide and/or propylene oxide preferably ranges from 1 to 250, more particularly from 2 to 100 and better still from 2 to 50; the number of mo les o f glycero l ranges especially from 1 to 50 and better still from 1 to 10.
Advantageously, the additional non-ionic surfactants according to the invention do not comprise any oxypropylene units.
As examples o f glycero lated nonionic surfactants, use is preferably made o f monoglycerolated or polyglycerolated C8 - C40 alcoho ls, comprising from 1 to 50 mo l o f glycero l and preferably from 1 to 10 mo l of glycerol.
Examples of saturated or unsaturated, oxyethylenated plant oils that may be mentioned include derivatives o f po lyoxyethyleneglyco l hydrogenated vegetable/plant oil. Preferably, the number o f polyoxyethyleneglycol groups ranges from 1 to 250, more preferably from 2-100, better still from 1 to 60, and even more preferably from 50 to 60.
The hydrogenated plant oil component may or may not contain linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated Cs-Cis carbon chains substituted by one or more ethyleneglycol groups.
The additional non-ionic surfactant(s), different from the non- ionic surfactant(s) chosen from oxyalkylenated C8-C30 fatty alcohols, is (are) advantageously chosen from:
- esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, C8-C30 acids and of sorbitol, preferably oxyethylenated,
- saturated or unsaturated, oxyethylenated plant oils, and
- mixtures thereof.
According to a preferred embodiment, the additional non-ionic surfactant(s), different from the non-ionic surfactant(s) chosen from oxyalkylenated C8-C30 fatty alcohols, is (are) preferably chosen from saturated or unsaturated, oxyethylenated plant oils, more preferably from hydrogenated 50-60 oxyethylenated (i.e. 50-60 OE units) plant oils, better still from hydrogenated 50-60 oxyethylenated castor oils, and even more preferably said additional non-ionic surfactant is PEG60 castor oil.
According to another preferred embodiment, in addition to the above mentioned saturated or unsaturated, oxyethylenated plant oils, the composition of the present invention further comprises one or more esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, C8-C30 acids and of sorbitol, preferably oxyethylenated with 1 to 18 OE; more preferably chosen from saturated or unsaturated, linear C8-C30 acids and of sorbitol, oxyethylenated preferably with 2 to 10 OE; and better still from saturated or unsaturated, linear C10-C24 acids and of sorbitol, oxyethylenated with 2 to 10 OE. An example that may be mentioned is sorbitan monolaurate with 4 OE units.
In other words, according to this second preferred embodiment, the additional non-ionic surfactants, different from the non-ionic surfactant(s) chosen from oxyalkylenated C8-C30 fatty alcohols, are a mixture of saturated or unsaturated, oxyethylenated plant oils and of more esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, C8-C30 acids and of sorbitol, preferably oxyethylenated with 1 to 18 OE. Preferably, the additional non-ionic surfactants, different from the non-ionic surfactant(s) chosen from oxyalkylenated C8-C30 fatty alcohols, are a mixture of PEG60 castor oil and of sorbitan monolaurate with 4 OE units.
The amount of the additional non-ionic surfactant(s), different from the non-ionic surfactant(s) chosen from oxyalkylenated C8-C30 fatty alcohols, and chosen from saturated or unsaturated, oxyethylenated plant oils, preferably ranges from 0.05 to 1% by weight, more preferably of from 0.1 to 0.5% by weight, and better still from 0.15 to 0.35% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
The total amount of additional non-ionic surfactant(s) different from the above-described oxyalkylenated C8-C30 fatty alcohols, when they are present in the composition of the invention, preferably ranges from 0.05 to 5% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1 to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Preferably, when said additional non-ionic surfactants are present in the composition of the invention, their total amount is lower than the total amount of non-ionic surfactants chosen from oxyalkylenated C8-C30 fatty alcohols.
In other words, the weight ratio between the total amount of said additional non-ionic surfactant(s) and the total amount of non- ionic surfactant(s) chosen from oxyalkylenated C8-C30 fatty alcohols is lower than 1.
Water-soluble organic solvents
The composition according to the present invention also comprises one or more water-soluble organic solvent(s) chosen from alcohols comprising a Ci-Cs alkyl chain.
According to the present invention, a water-soluble solvent has a solubility of greater than or equal to 5% by weight in water at 25°C and at atmospheric pressure. Water-soluble organic solvents are preferably chosen from linear or branched and preferably saturated monoalcohols or diols comprising from 2 to 8 carbon atoms, such as ethyl alcohol, isopropyl alcohol, hexylene glycol (2-methyl-2,4-pentanediol), neopentyl glycol, 3-methyl-l,5-pentanediol, butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol or propylene glycol; aromatic alcohols, such as phenylethyl alcohol; polyols comprising more than two hydroxyl functional groups, such as glycerol; polyol ethers, such as, for example, ethylene glycol monomethyl, monoethyl and monobutyl ethers, propylene glycol or its ethers, such as, for example, propylene glycol monomethyl ether; and also diethylene glycol alkyl ethers, in particular C1-C4 alkyl ethers, such as, for example, diethylene glycol monoethyl ether or monobutyl ether, alone or as a mixture.
Preferably, said water-soluble organic solvent(s) is (are) chosen from monoalcohols comprising from 2 to 8 carbon atoms, diols comprising from 2 to 8 carbon atoms and mixtures thereof, and more preferably from monoalcohols comprising from 2 to 8 carbon atoms, such as ethanol.
The total amount of water-soluble organic solvent(s) chosen from alcohols comprising a Ci-Cs alkyl chain, which is (are) present in the composition according to the invention, preferably ranges from 10 to 50% by weight, and more preferably from 15 to 40% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Preferably, the weight ratio between the total amount of compound(s) of formula (I) and the total amount of said water-soluble organic solvent(s) ranges from 0.01 to 1, more preferably from 0.015 to 0.8, and better still from 0.02 to 0.7.
Preferably, the weight ratio between the total amount of thickening polymer(s) and the total amount of said water-soluble organic solvent(s) ranges from 0.001 to 0.01, and more preferably from 0.002 to 0.008.
Water
The composition according to the present invention also comprises water, which preferably represents from 40 to 99% by weight, more preferably from 50 to 95 % by weight, better still from 55 to 80% by weight, and even more preferably from 65 to 80%> by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Additives
The cosmetic composition according to the present invention may further comprise one or more additive(s) other than the compounds o f the invention.
As additives that may be used in accordance with the invention, mention may be made o f fatty substances; cationic, anionic or amphoteric surfactants or mixtures thereof; antidandruff agents; anti- seborrhoea agents; agents for preventing hair loss and/or for promoting hair regrowth; vitamins and provitamins including pantheno l; sunscreens; mineral or organic pigments; sequestrants; plasticizers; so lubilizers; acidifying agents; opacifiers or nacreous agents; antioxidants; hydroxy acids; fragrances and preserving agents .
Needless to say, a person skilled in the art will take care to select this or these optional additional compound(s) such that the advantageous properties intrinsically associated with the composition according to the invention are not, or are not substantially, adversely affected by the envisaged addition(s) .
The above additives may generally be present in an amount, for each o f them, of between 0.001 and 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Preferably, the composition according to the invention is provided in the form o f a thickened hydroalcoho lic lotion or composition, and more preferably in the form o f a hydroalcoholic gelified lotion or composition.
Another obj et of the present invention relates to a method o f cosmetic treatment o f keratin substrates, in particular human keratin substrates such as the skin, the scalp and the hair, wherein a composition, as described above, is applied on said keratin substrates.
The composition may be applied to wet or dry keratin substrates, especially human keratin substrates such as the skin, the scalp and the hair. The present invention also relates to the use o f a composition as described above for conferring a feeling o f freshness and cleanliness to keratin substrates, and in particular to human keratin substrates such as the skin, the scalp and the hair.
The fo llowing example serves to illustrate the invention without, however, being limiting in nature.
EXAMPLE
In the examp les that fo llow and unless otherwise indicated, the amounts are given as mass percentages of active material relative to the total weight of the composition (% AM = % active matter) .
1 . Compositions
The fo llowing compositions A (invention) and B (comparative) were prepared from the ingredients indicated, in percentage by mass, in the table below.
Figure imgf000029_0001
Carbopol Ultrez 10 Polymer from Lubrizol 2. Method
5 squares (sites) of 2cm* 2cm have been drawn on each upper part and lower part of forearm o f both hands o f two vo lunteers. In other words, 20 squares have been drawn per vo lunteer (giving 40 squares in total) .
0.0025 g of refined coconut oil were then poured on each of the 40 squares to simulate sebum secretion.
The amount of oil o f 10 out of 20 squares on each vo lunteer were measured and corresponded to the baselines (giving 20 baselines in total) .
The measurement o f the amount of oil was based on grease spot photometry. The mat tape o f the Sebumeter® was brought into contact with the skin or the scalp . It became transparent in relation to the sebum on the surface of the measurement area. The tape was then inserted into the aperture of the device and the transparency was measured by a photocell. The light transmission represents the sebum content.
Then, O . l g of compositions (A) or (B) were randomly poured on the 10 left squares of each vo lunteer (giving 5 sites for composition A and 5 sites for composition B , per vo lunteer) . After a leave-on time of 10 minutes, each square was dabbed 12 times with a cotton pad (2 * 2 cm, 0.5 mm thick) during 30 seconds in total before measuring the amount of oil.
3. Results
The sebumeter readings measured before and after app lication of compositions (A) or (B), as well as their difference, are respectively mentioned in tables 1 and 2 below.
Table 1 : results obtained for t le composition A (invention)
Oil concentration Oil concentration Difference before after composition between before composition application and after application ^g/cm2) composition application (%)
213 133 37.6
209 155 25.8
225 138 38.7
211 150 28.9
208 162 22.1
230 180 21.7
227 206 9.3
202 171 15.3
253 157 37.9
204 183 10.3
Average 218.2 163.5 24.8
Table 2: results obtained for t le composition B (comparative)
Figure imgf000031_0001
The results show that the claimed composition (A), comprising a non-ionic surfactant chosen from oxyalkylenated C 8 - C 30 fatty alcohols, has a better anti-sebum efficiency than the comparative composition (B), lacking such a non-ionic surfactant.
Indeed, after application o f composition (A) almost 25 % o f o il are removed from the skin, while composition (B) can only remove 15 % of oil.
The composition o f the present invention is therefore a better cleansing agent, or sebum remover, in comparison to the comparative composition.

Claims

1. Composition comprising :
- one or more thickening polymer(s),
- one or more compound(s) of formula (I)
Figure imgf000033_0001
wherein, Ri denotes a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, C1-C12 alkyl radical, optionally substituted by one or more hydroxyl groups, and/or one or more NRR' groups with R and R', identical or different, denoting a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, C1-C4 alkyl radical,
- one or more non-ionic surfactant(s) chosen from oxyalkylenated C8- C30 fatty alcohols,
- one or more water-soluble organic solvent(s) chosen from alcohols comprising a Ci-Cs alkyl chain, and
- water.
2. Composition according to Claim 1, wherein the thickening polymer(s) is (are) chosen from thickening polymers comprising acrylic and/or methacrylic units, and preferably from:
(a) acrylic associative thickeners,
(b) crosslinked acrylic acid homopolymers and copolymers,
(c) crosslinked copolymers of (meth)acrylic acid and of (Ci-C6)alkyl acrylate,
(d) non-ionic homopolymers and copolymers comprising ethylenically unsaturated monomers of ester and/or amide type,
(e) ammonium acrylate homopolymers or copolymers of ammonium acrylate and of acrylamide,
(f) (meth)acrylamido(Ci-C4)alkylsulfonic acid homopolymers and copolymers, (g) crosslinked methacryloyloxy(C i - C4)alkyltri(C i - C4)alkylammonium homopolymers and copolymers, and
(h) mixtures thereof.
3. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the thickening polymer(s) is (are) chosen from crosslinked acrylic acid homopolymers and copolymers.
4. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the total amount of thickening polymer(s) ranges from 0.01 to 5 % by weight, preferably from 0.02 to 1 % by weight, and more preferably from 0.05 to 0.5 % by weight, relative to the total weight o f the composition.
5. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein Ri denotes a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, C i -C6 alkyl radical, substituted by one or more hydroxyl groups .
6. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the compound(s) o f formula (I) is (are) chosen from mentho l, menthoxy propanedio l, and mixture thereof.
7. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the total amount o f compound(s) of formula (I) ranges from
0.05 to 5 % by weight, and preferably from 0. 1 to 1 % by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
8. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the oxyalkylenated C 8 - C30 fatty alcoho l(s) is (are) chosen from oxyethylenated fatty alcoho ls comprising a C io-Ci s alkyl chain and from 5 to 20 of oxyethylene units, and preferably from oxyethylenated fatty alcoho ls comprising a C io-Ci s alkyl chain and from 10 to 15 of oxyethylene units.
9. Composition according to the preceding claims, wherein the total amount o f non-ionic surfactant(s), chosen from oxyalkylenated
C 8 - C30 fatty alcoho ls, ranges from 0. 1 to 10% by weight, and preferably from 0.5 to 5 % by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
10. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the composition further comprises one or more additional non- ionic surfactant(s), different from oxyalkylenated C8-C30 fatty alcohols, preferably chosen from:
- esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, C8-C30 acids and of sorbitol, preferably oxyethylenated,
- saturated or unsaturated, oxyethylenated plant oils, and
- mixtures thereof.
11. Composition according to claim 10, wherein the additional non-ionic surfactant(s), different from oxyalkylenated C8-C30 fatty alcohols, is (are) chosen from saturated or unsaturated, oxyethylenated plant oils, preferably from hydrogenated 50-60 oxyethylenated plant oils, more preferably from hydrogenated 50-60 oxyethylenated castor oils, and better still said additional non-ionic surfactant is PEG60 castor oil; in an amount ranging from 0.05 to 1% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 0.5% by weight, and more preferably from 0.15 to 0.35% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
12. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the total amount of water-soluble organic solvent(s) chosen from alcohols comprising a Ci-Cs alkyl chain ranges from 10 to 50% by weight, and preferably from 15 to 40% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
13. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the weight ratio between the total amount of compound(s) of formula (I) and the total amount of said water-soluble organic solvent(s) ranges from 0.01 to 1, preferably from 0.015 to 0.8, and more preferably from 0.02 to 0.7.
14. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the weight ratio between the total amount of thickening polymer(s) and the total amount of said water-soluble organic solvent(s) ranges from 0.001 to 0.01, and preferably from 0.002 to 0.008.
15. Method of cosmetic treatment of keratin substrates, in particular human keratin substrates such as the skin, the scalp and the hair, wherein a composition according to any one o f the preceding claims is applied on said keratin substrates.
16. Use o f a composition according to any one of claims 1 to 14 for conferring a feeling o f freshness and cleanliness to keratin substrates, and in particular to human keratin substrates, such as the skin, the scalp and the hair.
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WO2022207363A1 (en) * 2021-04-01 2022-10-06 L'oreal Process for the cosmetic treatment of braided hair with a composition comprising a thickening polymer, a derivative of menthol and a particular non-ionic surfactant
FR3122335A1 (en) * 2021-04-29 2022-11-04 L'oreal Process of cosmetic treatment of braided hair with a composition comprising a thickening polymer, a menthol derivative and a particular nonionic surfactant

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WO2022207363A1 (en) * 2021-04-01 2022-10-06 L'oreal Process for the cosmetic treatment of braided hair with a composition comprising a thickening polymer, a derivative of menthol and a particular non-ionic surfactant
FR3122335A1 (en) * 2021-04-29 2022-11-04 L'oreal Process of cosmetic treatment of braided hair with a composition comprising a thickening polymer, a menthol derivative and a particular nonionic surfactant

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