WO2017083943A1

WO2017083943A1 - Process and cosmetic compositions for cleansing and conditioning hair

Info

Publication number: WO2017083943A1
Application number: PCT/BR2015/050223
Authority: WO
Inventors: Divye Mykaella CARBONERA; Leandro Valeriano DE CARVALHO; Tatiana SAMPAIO
Original assignee: L'oreal
Priority date: 2015-11-19
Filing date: 2015-11-19
Publication date: 2017-05-26
Also published as: BR112018004038B1

Abstract

The present invention relates to a multi-component hair cosmetic agent for cleansing and conditioning hair fibers, in particular human hair fibers, the hair cosmetic agent comprising (a) a first cosmetic composition containing a surfactant mixture comprising anionic surfactants and amphoteric surfactants, an amino silicone, and a cationic polymer; and (b) a second cosmetic composition containing a fatty alcohol, a cationic surfactant, and an oily component, wherein the total amount of surfactants in the surfactant mixture of the first composition ranges from about 7% to about 11.4% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition and the weight ratio of the anionic surfactant to the amphoteric surfactant is greater than 3. The invention also concerns a process for cleansing and conditioning hair fibers and a use for hair care employing the first and second cosmetic compositions.

Description

PROCESS AND COSMETIC COMPOSITIONS FOR CLEANSING AND

CONDITIONING HAIR FI ELD OF TH E INVENTION

The present invention relates to a process and multi-component hair cosmetic agent for cleansing and conditioning hair fibers, the hair cosmetic agent comprising (a) a first cosmetic composition comprising a surfactant mixture; an amino silicone; and a cationic polymer; and (b) a second cosmetic composition comprising a fatty alcohol; a cationic surfactant; and an oily component. The hair cosmetic agent and compositions of the hair cosmetic agent impart cleansing and conditioning properties to hair fibers.

The invention also concerns a process for cleansing and conditioning hair fibers and a use for hair care employing the first and second cosmetic compositions.

BAC KG ROU N D OF TH E INVENTION

The quality and condition of hair is generally adversely affected by the action of external agents such as sunlight, wind, and humidity, and also by mechanical or chemical treatments, such as brushing, combing, shampooing, dyeing, bleaching, permanent-waving and/or relaxing. Hair is thus damaged by these various factors and may over time become dry, coarse or dull, especially in fragile areas, and more particularly at the ends leading to split ends.

In particular, cleansing compositions typically contain anionic surfactants. Anionic surfactants such as sodium lauryl sulfate have detergent properties and are highly effective at removing dirt and oil. However, anionic surfactants raise the cuticle of the hair for deep cleansing, but raised, rough cuticles also lead to frizziness of the hair. In addition, consumers generally find that products containing anionic surfactants can be too drying and damaging on frequent use, and, as a result, choose mild cleansing compositions which have low levels of anionic surfactants.

However, there are drawbacks associated with mild cleansing compositions. On account of their low detergency, excess oils and styling products may not be effectively removed from the hair. This may make the hair flat and feel greasy, and even with repeated use, such products may not impart a clean feel to the hair. Consumers are therefore still in search of optimized cleansing compositions or cleansing/washing regimens and systems consisting of compositions that provide adequate hair cleansing properties and at the same time, provide adequate visual sleekness of the hair; good and conditioned feel of the hair, and in particular, control, or even eliminate frizziness, and also control or reduce the volume and the apparent mass of the head of hair. Such systems or regimens are comprised of compositions that can be particularly suitable for curly, and/or damaged/frizzy, and/or voluminous hair.

Applicants have surprisingly found that their multi-component hair cosmetic agent for cleansing and conditioning hair fibers comprising (a) a first cosmetic composition comprising a surfactant mixture containing anionic and amphoteric surfactants; an amino silicone; and a cationic polymer; wherein the total amount of surfactants in the surfactant mixture ranges from about 7% to about 1 1 .4% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition; and wherein the weight ratio of the anionic surfactant to the amphoteric surfactant is greater than 3; and(b) a second cosmetic composition comprising a fatty alcohol; a cationic surfactant; and an oily component effectively cleans the hair and at the same time, provides conditioning and hydrating properties, detangling, and curl definition without leaving the hair frizzy, flat, or feeling greasy.

S U MMARY O F TH E INVENTION

The present invention is directed to a multi-component hair cosmetic agent for cleansing and conditioning hair fibers, the hair cosmetic agent comprising:

a) a first cosmetic composition containing:

i) a surfactant mixture comprising at least one anionic surfactant and at least one amphoteric surfactant;

ii) at least one amino silicone; and

iii) at least one cationic polymer; and

iv) water;

wherein the total amount of surfactants in the surfactant mixture of the first composition ranges from about 7% to about 1 1 .4% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition;

wherein the weight ratio of the anionic surfactant to the amphoteric surfactant is greater than 3, and preferably ranges from about 3.5 to about 4.5;and b) a second cosmetic composition containing:

i) at least one fatty alcohol;

ii) at least one cationic surfactant; and iii) at least one oily component; and

iv) water.

The first cosmetic composition in accordance with the invention may be used for cleansing hair fibers, for example as hair cleansers or shampoos. The second cosmetic composition in accordance with the invention may be used for conditioning hair fibers, for example, as hair conditioners or post-cleansing compositions or post-coloration or post-relaxing/straightening compositions.

The present invention is also directed to processes for application to the hair of the above-described first and second compositions.

DETAI LE D DESCRI PTION OF TH E I NVENTION

The present compositions provide effectively cleansing of the hair and provide conditioning and hydrating properties, detangling, and curl definition without leaving the hair frizzy, flat, or feeling greasy.

"At least one" as used herein means one or more and thus includes individual components as well as mixtures/combinations.

"Conditioning" as used herein means imparting to one or more hair fibers at least one property chosen from combability, manageability, moisture- retentivity, luster, shine, volume control, discipline, and softness. The state of conditioning can be evaluated by any means known in the art, such as, for example, measuring, and comparing, the ease of combability of the treated hair and of the untreated hair in terms of combing work (gm-in), and consumer perception.

"Transformed hair" as used herein means hair that has undergone chemical or physical treatment to straighten or curl the hair.

"Substituted," as used herein, means comprising one or more substituents. Non-limiting examples of substituents include atoms, such as oxygen atoms and nitrogen atoms, as well as functional groups, such as hydroxyl groups, ether groups, alkoxy groups, acyloxyalkyl groups, oxyalkylene groups, polyoxyalkylene groups, carboxylic acid groups, amine groups, acylamino groups, amide groups, halogen containing groups, ester groups, thiol groups, sulphonate groups, thiosulphate groups, siloxane groups, and polysiloxane groups. The substituent(s) may be further substituted.

"Polymers," as defined herein, include homopolymers and copolymers formed from at least two different types of monomers. "INCI" is an abbreviation of International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients, which is a system of names provided by the International Nomenclature Committee of the Personal Care Products Council to describe personal care ingredients.

The compositions and methods of the present invention can comprise, consist of, or consist essentially of the essential elements and limitations of the invention described herein, as well as any additional or optional ingredients, components, or limitations described herein or otherwise useful.

Other than in the operating examples, or where otherwise indicated, all numbers expressing quantities of ingredients and/or reaction conditions are to be understood as being modified in all instances by the term "about," meaning within +/- 5% of the indicated number.

All percentages, parts and ratios herein are based upon the total weight of the compositions of the present invention, unless otherwise indicated.

As used herein, all ranges provided are meant to include every specific range within, and combination of sub ranges between, the given ranges. Thus, a range from 1 -5, includes specifically 1 , 2, 3, 4 and 5, as well as sub ranges such as 2-5, 3-5, 2-3, 2-4, 1 -4, etc.

As used herein, a range of ratios is meant to include every specific ratio within, and combination of sub ranges between.

As used herein, "first cosmetic composition" may also be called "first composition."

As used herein, "second cosmetic composition" may also be called "second composition."

As used herein, "multi-component" means having two or more components, such as three components or four components. "Component" as used herein refers to a part or a composition or a unit.

In an embodiment, the present invention is directed to a multi- component hair cosmetic agent for cleansing and conditioning hair, the hair cosmetic agent comprising:

a) a first cosmetic composition comprising:

i) from about 9% to about 1 1 % by weight of a surfactant mixture comprising at least one anionic surfactant selected from sulfate surfactants, preferably from sodium laureth sulfate, sodium lauryl sulfate, and mixtures thereof, and at least one amphoteric surfactant selected from (C8-C20)alkyl betaines, preferably from coco betaine, cocamidopropylbetaine, cocoamphoacetate, cocoamphodiacetate, and their salts, and mixtures thereof;

ii) from about 0.8% to about 0.9% by weight of at least one amino silicone , preferably selected from amodimethicone;

iii) from about 0.2% to about 0.46% by weight of at least one cationic polymer, preferably selected from guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride; and

iv) water;

all weights being relative to the total weight of the first composition; wherein the weight ratio of the anionic surfactant to the amphoteric surfactant is greater than 3, and preferably ranges from about 3.5 to about 4.5; and b) application to the hair of a second cosmetic composition comprising: i) from about 5% to about 6% by weight of at least one fatty alcohol, preferably selected from cetearyl alcohol;

ii) from about 1 .63% to about 1 .8% by weight of at least one cationic surfactant selected from quaternary ammonium salts, preferably from cetrimonium chloride, behentrimonium chloride, and mixtures thereof;

iii) from about 1 .27% to about 1 .63% by weight of least one oily component selected from mineral oil, triglycerides, plant oils, hydrocarbon oils, and mixtures thereof; and preferably selected from mineral oil; and

iv) water;

all weights being relative to the total weight of the second composition. In accordance with the present invention, Applicants have surprisingly and unexpectedly discovered that a multi-component hair cosmetic agent for cleansing and conditioning hair fibers comprising (a) a first cosmetic composition comprising a surfactant mixture containing anionic and amphoteric surfactants, an amino silicone, and a cationic polymer and (b) a second cosmetic composition comprising a fatty alcohol, a cationic surfactant, and an oily component effectively cleans hair and at the same time, provides conditioning and hydrating properties, detangling, and curl definition without leaving the hair frizzy, flat, or feeling greasy. Both first and second cosmetic compositions spreadwell on the hair and rinsed out easily and quickly.

Applicants have also surprisingly and unexpectedly found that, (i) even at lower concentrations of the total amount of anionic surfactants and amphoteric surfactants in the surfactant mixture of the first cosmetic composition as compared to traditional surfactant-based systems, said composition provided a creamy foam to the hair, allowed the fingers to slide easily through the hair while rinsing, and imparted a fast transformation, sensation of long lasting cleanliness, and hair movement.

It was also surprisingly and unexpectedly found that even at lower concentrations of the fatty alcohol, cationic surfactant, and oily component of the second cosmetic composition as compared to traditional conditioner systems, said composition imparted good conditioning properties to hair. The compositions have a soft, creamy texture that feels pleasant and are easy to apply to the hair.

The use of lower concentrations of the surfactants in the surfactant mixture in the first composition as compared to traditional/commercial surfactant- based or cleansing/shampoo compositions has the advantages of lower costs of production and sustainability measures as well reducing the potential harshness of the surfactants and damage to the hair or skin and irritation to the scalp and eyes while still providing efficacious and satisfactory cleansing attributes.

Likewise, the use of lower concentrations of the fatty alcohol, cationic surfactant and oily component in the second composition as compared to traditional/commercial conditioning compositions has the advantages of lower costs of production and sustainability measures while still resulting in a composition that provides satisfactory.

In certain embodiments, when the first cosmetic composition and the second cosmetic composition were used in a hair treatment regimen, resulting in a multi-component hair cosmetic agent, said agent gave the hair a sensation of long lasting cleanliness, softness, sleekness and suppleness while affording a natural, healthy feel to sensitized or damaged or embrittled hair.

The hair cosmetic agent and compositions according to the invention are particularly suitable for use on all types of hair such as curly, sensitized, straight, or colored/dyed/relaxed hair, and enables shiny and supple curls to be obtained.

Another subject of the present invention is a process for cleansing and conditioning hair fibers, such as the hair, which comprises applying the first and second cosmetic compositions as described above in a sequential manner on the hair in amounts effective to cleanse and condition the hair. Optionally, the application of the first cosmetic composition on the hair is followed by a rinsing of the hair with water before the application of the second cosmetic composition onto the hair. The compositions according to the invention improve the cosmetic properties of hair fibers, in particular human hair fibers such as the hair, for example, in terms of softness, smoothness and/or suppleness while at same time giving the hair a natural look and feeling.

The present invention also relates to a process for treating the hair, comprising the application to the fibers of the composition according to the invention.

The present invention relates to the use of the multi-component hair cosmetic agent according to the invention as a hair cleanser/shampoo and conditioner.

In some embodiments, the present invention relates to the use of the first cosmetic composition according to the invention as a hair cleanser/shampoo by itself.

In other embodiments, the present invention also relates to the use of the first cosmetic composition according to the invention as a hair cleanser/shampoo by itself.

The compositions described above may be used on any type of hair, for example, light or dark hair, straight or curly, natural hair, or hair that has undergone a cosmetic treatment such as permanent waving, dyeing, bleaching or relaxing.

In a preferred embodiment, the composition of the present invention is applied on curly, sensitized, embrittled, and/or damaged hair.

The application to the hair of the composition according to the invention may be performed, for example, using a comb, a fine brush, a coarse brush or with the fingers.

The invention also relates to a process for making the first cosmetic composition according to the invention, comprising combining a surfactant mixture containing anionic and amphoteric surfactants, an amino silicone, and a cationic polymer. The invention also relates to a process for making the second cosmetic composition according to the invention, comprising combining a fatty alcohol, a cationic surfactant, and an oily component.

Other subjects and characteristics, aspects and advantages of the invention will emerge even more clearly on reading the description and the example that follows.

FIRST COSMETIC COMPOSITION SURFACTANTS The surfactant mixture of the present invention comprises anionic surfactants and amphoteric surfactants.

The surfactant mixture is present in the first compositions of the invention in a total amount of from about 7% to about 1 1 .4% by weight, such as from about 8% to about 1 1 .4% by weight, or preferably, from about 9% to about 1 1 .2% by weight, or more preferably, from about 9% to about 1 1 % by weight, relative to the total weight of the first composition, including all ranges and sub ranges therebetween. In a particular embodiment, the total amount of the surfactant mixture is at about 7%, or at about 7.5%, or at about 8%, or at about 8.5%, or at about9%, or about 9.1 74%, or about 9.25%, or about 9.5%, or about 9.75%, or about 1 0%, or about 10.1 9%, or about 1 0.25%, or about 10.5%, or about 10.75%, or about 1 1 %, or about 1 1 .1 %, or about 1 1 .2%, or about 1 1 .3%, or about 1 1 .35%, or about 1 1 .4%, relative to the total weight of the first composition.

ANIONIC SURFACTANT

The at least one anionic surfactant of the present invention may be chosen from sulfate surfactants, sulfonate surfactants, carboxylic (or carboxylate) surfactants, and mixtures thereof.

The term "anionic surfactant" means a surfactant comprising, as ionic or ionizable groups, only anionic groups.

In the present description, a species is termed as being "anionic" when it bears at least one permanent negative charge or when it can be ionized as a negatively charged species, under the conditions of use of the composition of the invention (for example the medium or the pH) and not comprising any cationic charge.

It is understood in the present description that:

- carboxylate anionic surfactants comprise at least one carboxylic or carboxylate function (-COOH or -COO-) and may optionally also comprise one or more sulfate and/or sulfonate functions;

- the sulfonate anionic surfactants comprise at least one sulfonate function (-SO₃H or -SO₃-) and may optionally also comprise one or more sulfate functions, but do not comprise any carboxylate functions; and

- the sulfate anionic surfactants comprise at least one sulfate function but do not comprise any carboxylate or sulfonate functions.

The carboxylic anionic surfactants that may be used thus comprise at least one carboxylic or carboxylate function (-COOH or -COO-).

They may be chosen from the following compounds:

acylglycinates, acyllactylates, acylsarcosinates, acylglutamates; alkyl-D- galactosideuronic acids, alkyl ether carboxylic acids, alkyl(C6-3o aryl) ether carboxylic acids, alkylamido ether carboxylic acids; and also the salts of these compounds;

the alkyl and/or acyl groups of these compounds comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, especially from 1 2 to 28, better still from 14 to 24 or even from 1 6 to 22 carbon atoms; the aryl group preferably denoting a phenyl or benzyl group;

these compounds possibly being polyoxyalkylenated, especially polyoxyethylenated, and then preferably comprising from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide units and better still from 2 to 1 0 ethylene oxide units.

Use may also be made of the C -C,2A alkyl monoesters of polyglycoside- polycarboxylic acids, such as C -C,2A alkyl polyglycoside-citrates, C -C,2A alkyl polyglycoside-tartrates and C₆-C₂₄ alkyl polyglycoside-sulfosuccinates, and salts thereof.

Among the above carboxylic surfactants, mention may be made most particularly of polyoxyalkylenated alkyl(amido) ether carboxylic acids and salts thereof, in particular those comprising from 2 to 50 alkylene oxide and in particular ethylene oxide groups, such as the compounds sold by the company Kao under the name Akypo.

The polyoxyalkylenated alkyl (amido) ether carboxylic acids that may be used are preferably chosen from those of formula (1 ):

F¾-(OC¾hi)-OCHOOCA (1)

in which:

- Ri represents a linear or branched C -C,2A alkyl or alkenyl radical, an alkyl(C8-C9)phenyl radical, a radical R₂CONH-CH₂-CH₂- with R₂ denoting a linear or branched C9-C₂₁ alkyl or alkenyl radical,

preferably, Ri is a C8-C20 and preferably Cs-C-is alkyl radical, and aryl preferably denotes phenyl,

- n is an integer or decimal number (average value) ranging from 2 to

24 and preferably from 2 to 1 0,

- A denotes H, ammonium, Na, K, Li, Mg or a monoethanolamine or triethanola-mine residue.

It is also possible to use mixtures of compounds of formula (1 ), in particular mixtures of compounds containing different groups R1 .

The polyoxyalkylenatedalkyl(amido) ether carboxylic acids that are particularly preferred are those of formula (1 ) in which:

- R1 denotes a C12-C14 alkyl, cocoyl, oleyl, nonylphenyl or octylphenyl radical,

- A denotes a hydrogen or sodium atom, and

- n varies from 2 to 20 and preferably from 2 to 1 0.

Even more preferentially, use is made of compounds of formula (1 ) in which R denotes a C12 alkyl radical, A denotes a hydrogen or sodium atom and n ranges from 2 to 10.

Preferentially, the carboxylic anionic surfactants are chosen, alone or as a mixture, from:

- acylglutamates, especially of C6-C24 or even C12-C20, such as stearoylgluta-mates, and in particular disodium stearoylglutamate;

- acylsarcosinates, especially of C₆-C₂4 or even C12-C20, such as palmitoylsar-cosinates, and in particular sodium palmitoylsarcosinate;

- acyllactylates, especially of C12-C28 or even C14-C24, such as behenoyllac-tylates, and in particular sodium behenoyllactylate;

- C₆-C24 and especially C12-C20 acylglycinates;

- (C6-C24)alkyl ether carboxylates and especially (Ci2-C2o)alkyl ether carbox-ylates;

- polyoxyalkylenated (C₆-C24)alkyl(amido) ether carboxylic acids, in particular those comprising from 2 to 50 ethylene oxide groups;

in particular in the form of alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal, ammonium or amino alcohol salts.

The sulfonate anionic surfactants that may be used comprise at least one sulfonate function (-SO₃H or -SO₃-).

They may be chosen from the following compounds:

alkylsulfonates, alkyla-midesulfonates, alkylarylsulfonates, a- olefinsulfonates, paraffin sulfonates, alkyl-sulfosuccinates, alkyl ether sulfosuccinates, alkylamidesulfosuccinates, alkyl-sulfoacetates, N-acyltaurates, acylisethionates; alkylsulfolaurates; and also the salts of these compounds;

the alkyl groups of these compounds comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, especially from 1 2 to 28, better still from 14 to 24 or even from 16 to 22 carbon atoms; the aryl group preferably denoting a phenyl or benzyl group;

Preferentially, the sulfonate anionic surfactants are chosen, alone or as a mixture, from:

- C6-C2₄ and especially C12-C20 alkylsulfosuccinates, especially laurylsulfosuccinates;

- C₆-C₂₄ and especially C12-C20 alkyl ether sulfosuccinates;

- (C₆-C₂₄)acylisethionates and preferably (Ci₂-Ci₈)acylisethionates, in particular in the form of alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal, ammonium or amino alcohol salts.

The sulfate anionic surfactants that may be used comprise at least one sulfate function (-OSO₃H or -OSO₃-).

They may be chosen from the following compounds:

alkyl sulfates, alkyl ether sulfates, alkylamido ether sulfates, alkylaryl polyether sulfates, monoglyceride sulfates; and also the salts of these compounds;

Preferentially, the sulfate anionic surfactants are chosen, alone or as a mixture, from:

- alkyl sulfates, especially of C₆-C₂₄ or even C-12-C20,

- alkyl ether sulfates, especially of C₆-C₂₄ or even C-12-C20, preferably comprising from 2 to 20 ethylene oxide units;

When the anionic surfactant is in salt form, the said salt may be chosen from alkali metal salts, such as the sodium or potassium salt, ammonium salts, amine salts and in particular amino alcohol salts, and alkaline-earth metal salts, such as the magnesium salt. Examples of amino alcohol salts that may be mentioned include monoethanolamine, diethanolamine and triethanolamine salts, monoisopropanolamine, diisopropanolamine or triisopropanolamine salts, 2-amino-2- methyl-1 -propanol salts, 2-amino-2-methyl-1 ,3-propanediol salts and tris(hydroxymethyl)aminomethane salts.

Alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal salts and in particular the sodium or magnesium salts are preferably used.

Preferentially, the anionic surfactants are chosen, alone or as a mixture, from:

- C₆-C₂₄ and especially C12-C20 alkyl sulfates;

- C₆-C₂₄ and especially C12-C20 alkyl ether sulfates; preferably comprising from 2 to 20 ethylene oxide units;

- C₆-C₂₄ and especially C12-C20 alkyl ether sulfosuccinates;

- (C6-C2₄)acylisethionates and preferably (Ci2-Cis)acylisethionates;

- C6-C2₄ and especially C12-C20 acylsarcosinates; especially palmitoylsar-cosinates;

- (C₆-C₂₄)alkyl ether carboxylates, preferably (Ci2-C₂o)alkyl ether carboxylates;

- polyoxyalkylenated (C6-C2₄)alkyl(amido) ether carboxylic acids and salts there-of, in particular those comprising from 2 to 50 alkylene oxide and in particular ethylene oxide groups;

- C6-C2₄ and especially C12-C20 acylglutamates;

- C6-C2₄ and especially C12-C20 acylglycinates;

In some embodiments, the at least one anionic surfactant of the present invention is chosen from sulfate surfactants.

In certain embodiments, the at least one anionic surfactant of the present invention is preferably chosen from sodium lauryl sulfate, sodium laureth sulfate, and mixtures thereof.

In an embodiment, the at least one anionic surfactant of the present invention comprises sodium lauryl sulfate and sodium laureth sulfate. The at least one anionic surfactant is present in the first compositions of the invention in an amount of from about 6% to about 1 1 % by weight, such as from about 6% to about 10% by weight, or preferably from about 6.24% to about 9.25% by weight, more preferably from about 6.5% to about 9% by weight, and even more preferably from about 7% to about 8.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition by weight, relative to the total weight of the first composition, including all ranges and sub ranges therebetween. In a particular embodiment, the total amount of anionic surfactants is at about 6%, or about 6.24%, or about 6.5%, or about 6.75%, or about 7%, or about 7.2%, or about 7.5%, or about 7.75%, or about 8%, or about 8.25%, or about 8.5%, or about 8.75%, or about 9%, or about 9.25%, or about 9.5%, or about 9.75%, or about 10%, or about 10.25%, or about 10.5%, or about 10.75%, or about 10.81 % by weight, or 1 1 %, or about 1 1 .75% by weight, relative to the total weight of the first composition.

In certain embodiments, when the at least one anionic surfactant of the present invention is chosen from sodium lauryl sulfate, the anionic surfactant in the first compositions of the invention is in an amount of from about 2% to about 3.2% by weight, such as from about 2.2% to about 3.1 % by weight, or preferably from about 2.4% to about 3% by weight, more preferably from about 2.4% to about 2.9% by weight, and even more preferably from about 2.5% to about 2.8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the first composition, including all ranges and sub ranges therebetween. In a particular embodiment, when the at least one anionic surfactant of the present invention is chosen from sodium lauryl sulfate, it is present in an amount of about 2%, or about 2.1 %, or about 2.15%, or about 2.2%, or about 2.25%, or about 2.3%, or about 2.35%, or about 2.4%, or 2.45%, or about 2.5%, or about 2.55%, or about 2.57%, or about 2.7%, or about 2.75%, or about 2.8%, or about 2.85%, or about 2.9%, or about 2.95%, or about 3%, or about 3.1 %, or about 3.15%, or about 3.2%, relative to the total weight of the first composition.

In certain other embodiments, when the at least one anionic surfactant of the present invention is chosen from sodium laureth sulfate, the anionic surfactant in the first compositions of the invention is in an amount of from about 4% to about 7.8% by weight, such as from about 4.2% to about 7% by weight, or preferably from about 4.3% to about 6% by weight, more preferably from about 4.4% to about 5.5% by weight, and even more preferably from about 4.5% to about 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition by weight, relative to the total weight of the first composition, including all ranges and sub ranges therebetween. In a particular embodiment, when the at least one anionic surfactant of the present invention is chosen from sodium laureth sulfate, it is present in an amount of about 2%, or about 2.5%, or about 3%, or about 3.5%, or about 4%, or about 4.1 %, or about 4.5%, or about 4.6%, or 4.63%, or about 4.7%, or about 5%, or about 5.5%, or about 6%, or about 6.5%, or about 7%, or about 7.5%, or about 7.8%, relative to the total weight of the first composition.

In certain embodiments, the at least one anionic surfactant of the present invention comprises sodium lauryl sulfate and sodium laureth sulfate; preferably sodium lauryl sulfate is present in an amount of from about 2.5% to about 2.8% by weight, such as about 2.5%, 2.55%, 2.56%, 2.6%, 2.65%, 2.7%, and sodium laureth sulfate present in an amount of from about 4.5% to about 5% by weight, such as about 4.5%, 4.55%, 4.6%, 4.63%, 4.65%, 4.7%, 4.75%, 4.8%, all weights relative to the total weight of the first composition, including all ranges and sub ranges therebetween.

AMPHOTERIC SURFACTANT

The amphoteric surfactants of the present invention may be optionally quaternized secondary or tertiary aliphatic amine derivatives, in which the aliphatic group is a linear or branched chain comprising from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, said amine derivatives containing at least one anionic group, for instance a carboxylate, sulfonate, sulfate, phosphate or phosphonate group.

Mention may be made in particular of (C₈-C₂o)alkylbetaines, (C₈- C₂o)alkylamido (CrC₆)alkylbetaines, sulfobetaines, (C₈-C₂o)alkylsulfobetaines, (C₈- C2o)alkylamido(Ci-C6)alkylsulfobetaines, (C₈-C2o)alkylamphoacetate, (C₈- C2o)alkylamphodiacetate, and mixtures thereof.

Among the optionally quaternized secondary or tertiary aliphatic amine derivatives that may be used, mention may also be made of the products of respective structures (A1 ) and (A2) below:

(A1 ) Ra-CON(Z)CH₂-(CH₂)m-N+(Rb)(Rc)(CH₂COO-)

in which:

Ra represents a Cio-C₃₀ alkyl or alkenyl group derived from an acid Ra- COOH preferably present in hydrolysed coconut oil, a heptyl group, a nonyl group or an undecyl group,

Rb represents a β-hydroxyethyl group, Rc represents a carboxymethyl group;

m is equal to 0, 1 or 2,

Z represents a hydrogen atom or a hydroxyethyl or carboxymethyl group;

(A2) Ra'-CON(Z)CH₂-(CH₂)m'-N(B)(B')

in which:

B represents -CH₂CH₂OX', with X' representing -CH₂-COOH, CH₂- COOZ', CH₂CH₂-COOH, -CH₂CH₂-COOZ', or a hydrogen atom,

B' represents -(CH₂)z-Y\ with z = 1 or 2, and V representing COOH, COOZ', CH₂-CHOH-SO₃H or -CH₂-CHOH-SO₃Z',

m' is equal to 0, 1 or 2,

Z represents a hydrogen atom or a hydroxyethyl or carboxymethyl group,

Z' represents an ion resulting from an alkali or alkaline-earth metal, such as sodium, potassium or magnesium; an ammonium ion; or an ion resulting from an organic amine and in particular from an amino alcohol, such as monoethanola-mine, diethanolamine and triethanolamine, monoisopropanolamine, diisopropa-nolamine or triisopropanolamine, 2-amino-2-methyl-1 -propanol, 2-amino- 2-methyl-1 ,3-propanediol and tris(hydroxymethyl)aminomethane,

Ra' represents a C10-C30 alkyl or alkenyl group of an acid Ra'COOH preferably pre-sent in hydrolysed linseed oil or coconut oil, an alkyl group, in particular a C17 alkyl group, and its iso form, or an unsaturated Ci₇ group.

Among the compounds corresponding to formula (A2) in which X' represents an hydrogen atom, mention may be made of compounds classified in the CTFA dictionary, under the names sodium cocoamphoacetate, sodium lauroamphoacetate, sodium caproamphoacetate and sodium capryloamphoacetate.

Other compounds corresponding to formula (A2) are disodium cocoamphodiace-tate, disodium lauroamphodiacetate, disodium caproamphodiacetate, disodium capryloamphodiacetate, disodium cocoamphodipropionate, disodium lauroam-phodipropionate, disodium caproamphodipropionate, disodium capryloamphodi-propionate, lauroamphodipropionic acid and cocoamphodipropionic acid.

Examples that may be mentioned include the cocoamphodiacetate sold by the company Rhodia under the trade name Miranol® C2M Concentrate, the sodium cocoamphoacetate sold under the trade name Miranol Ultra C 32 and the product sold by the company Chimex under the trade name CHIMEXANE HA.

Use may also be made of the compounds of formula (A3):

(A3) Ra"-NH-CH(Y")-(CH₂)n-C(0)-NH-(CH₂)n'-N(Rd)(Re) in which:

- Ra" represents a C1 0-C30 alkyl or alkenyl group of an acid Ra"- C(O)OH preferably present in hydrolysed linseed oil or coconut oil;

- Y" represents the group -C(O)OH, -C(O)OZ", -CH₂-CH(OH)-SO₃H or the group CH₂-CH(OH)-SO₃-Z", with Z" representing a cationic counterion resulting from an alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal, such as sodium, an ammonium ion or an ion resulting from an organic amine;

- Rd and Re represent, independently of each other, a CrC₄ alkyl or hydroxyalkyl radical; and

- n and n' denote, independently of each other, an integer ranging from 1 to 3.

Among the compounds corresponding to formula (A3), mention may in particular be made of the compound classified in the CTFA dictionary under the name sodi-um diethylaminopropylcocoaspartamide, such as the one sold by the company Chimex under the name CHIMEXANE HB.

Preferably, the amphoteric surfactants are chosen from (Cs-

C₂o)alkylbetaines, (C8-C₂o)alkylamido(CrC6)alkylbetaines, (Cs-

C₂₀)alkylamphoacetates and (C₈-C₂₀)alkylamphodiacetates, and mixtures thereof.

In some embodiments, the at least one amphoteric surfactant of the present invention is chosen from (Cs-C₂o)alkyl betaines, (Cs-C₂o)alkylamido (d- C6)alkylbetaines, (C8-C₂o)alkylamphoacetate, (C8-C₂o)alkylamphodiacetate, and their salts, and mixtures thereof.

Preferably, the amphoteric surfactants are chosen from (C₈- C₂o)alkylbetaines such as the one known under the INCI names coco-betaine, (Cs- C₂o)alkylamido(Ci-C6)alkylbetaines such as the one known under the INCI name cocamidopropylbetaine, and mixtures thereof. Even more preferentially, the amphoteric surfactant is coco-betaine.

In other embodiments, the at least one amphoteric surfactant of the present invention is preferably chosen from coco betaine, cocamidopropylbetaine, cocoamphoacetate, cocoamphodiacetate, and their salts, and mixtures thereof The at least one amphoteric surfactant is present in the first compositions of the invention in an amount of from about 1 % to about 3% by weight, preferably ranging from about 1 .5% to about 2.75% by weight, more preferably from about 1 .8% to about 2.5% by weight, and even more preferably from about 1 .9% to about 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the first composition, including all ranges and subranges therebetween. In a particular embodiment, the amount of the at least one amphoteric surfactant is at about 1 %, or about 1 .5%, or about 1 .55%, or about 1 .6%, or about 1 .65%, or about 1 .7%, or about 1 .75%, or about 1 .8%, or about 1 .85%, or about 1 .9%, or about 1 .95%, or about 1 .97%, or about 2%, or about 2.05%, or about 2.1 %, or about 2.1 5%, or about 2.2%, or about 2.25%, or about 2.3%, or about 2.35%, or about 2.4%, or about 2.45%, or about 2.5%, or about 2.55%, or about 2.6%, or about 2.65%, or about 2.7%, or about 2.75%, or about 2.8%, or about 2.85%, or about 2.9% by weight, relative to the total weight of the first composition.

In an embodiment of the present invention, the weight ratio of the anionic surfactant to the amphoteric surfactant is greater than 3 or greater than 3.1 , or greater than 3.2, or greater than 3.3, or greater than 3.4, or greater than 3.5.

In another embodiment of the present invention, the weight ratio of the anionic surfactant to the amphoteric surfactant ranges from about 3.5 to about 4.5, such as from about 3.6 to about 4.4, or such as from about 3.6 to about 4.3, or such as from about 3.6 to about 4.2, or such as from about 3.6 to about 4.1 , or such as from about 3.6 to about 4.0, including all ranges and sub ranges therebetween.

AMINO SILICONE

The first cosmetic composition according to the invention optionally comprises one or more amino silicones. The term "amino silicone" is intended to mean any silicone comprising at least one primary, secondary or tertiary amine or a quaternary ammonium group.

As amino silicone that may be used in the scope of the invention, the following can be cited:

a) polysiloxanes corresponding to formula (A):

in which x' and y' are integers such that the weight-average molecular weight (Mw) is comprised between about 5000 and 500 000;

b) amino silicones correspondingto formula (B):

R'aGs-a-S OSiGzJn-iOSiGbR'^m-O-SiGs-a-R'a (B)

in which:

- G, which may be identical or different, designate a hydrogen atom, or a phenyl, OH or d-Cs alkyl group, for example methyl, or d-Cs alkoxy, for example methoxy,

- a, which may be identical or different, denote the number 0 or an integer from 1 to 3, in particular 0;

- b denotes 0 or 1 , and in particular 1 ;

- m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) ranges from 1 to 2000 and in particular from 50 to 150, it being possible for n to denote a number from 0 to 1999 and in particular from 49 to 149, and for m to denote a number from 1 to 2000 and in particular from 1 to 10;

- R', which may be identical or different, denote a monovalent radical having formula -CqH₂qL in which q is a number ranging from 2 to 8 and L is an optionally quaternized amino group chosen from the following groups:

-NR"-Q-N(R")₂

-N(R")₂

-N+(R")₃ A- -N+H(R")₂ A- -N+H₂(R") A- -N(R")-Q-N+R"H₂ A- -NR"-Q-N+ (R")₂H A- -NR"-Q-N+ (R")₃ A-,

in which R", which may be identical or different, denote hydrogen, phenyl, benzyl, or a saturated monovalent hydrocarbon-based radical, for example a C1-C20 alkyl radical; Q denotes a linear or branched CrH_2r group, r being an integer ranging from 2 to 6, preferably from 2 to 4; and A- represents a cosmetically acceptable ion, in particular a halide such as fluoride, chloride, bromide or iodide.

A group of amino silicones corresponding to this definition (B) is represented by the silicones called "trimethylsilylamodimethicone" having formula (C):

(CH₃)₃ Si

in which n and m have the meanings given above, in formula B.

Another group of amino silicones corresponding to this defi represented by silicones having the following formulae (D) or (E):

in which:

- m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) can range from 1 to 1000, in particular from 50 to 250 and more particularly from 100 to 200, it being possible for n to denote a number from 0 to 999 and in particular from 49 to 249, and more particularly from 125 to 175, and for m to denote a number from 1 to 1000 and in particular from 1 to 10, and more particularly from 1 to 5;

- Ri , R2, R3, which may be identical or different, represent a hydroxy or Ci-C₄ alkoxy radical, where at least one of the radicals Ri to R₃ denotes an alkoxy radical.

The alkoxy radical is preferably a methoxy radical.

The hydroxy/alkoxy mole ratio ranges preferably from 0.2:1 to 0.4:1 and preferably from 0.25:1 to 0.35:1 and more particularly equals 0.3:1 .

The weight-average molecular weight (Mw) of the silicone ranges preferably from 2000 to 1 000 000, more particularly from 3500 to 200 000.

R;

in which:

- p and q are numbers such that the sum (p + q) ranges from 1 to 1000, particularly from 50 to 350, and more particularly from 150 to 250; it being possible for p to denote a number from 0 to 999 and in particular from 49 to 349, and more particularly from 159 to 239 and for q to denote a number from 1 to 1000, in particular from 1 to 10, and more particularly from 1 to 5;

- Ri, R₂, which are different, represent a hydroxy or C C₄ alkoxy radical, where at least one of the radicals Ri or R₂ denotes an alkoxy radical.

The alkoxy radical is preferably a methoxy radical.

The hydroxy/alkoxy mole ratio ranges generally from 1 :0.8 to 1 :1 .1 and preferably from 1 :0.9 to 1 :1 and more particularly equals 1 :0.95.

The weight-average molecular weight (Mw) of the silicone ranges preferably from 2000 to 200 000, even more particularly 5000 to 100 000 and more particularly from 10 000 to 50 000.

Commercial products corresponding to these silicones having structure (D) or (E) may include in their composition one or more other amino silicones whose structure is different than formulae (D) or (E).

A product containing amino silicones having structure (D) is sold by Wacker under the name Belsil® ADM 652.

A product containing amino silicones having structure (E) is sold by Wacker under the name Fluid WR 1300®.

When these amino silicones are used, one particularly advantageous embodiment consists in using them in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion. The oil-in- water emulsion may comprise one or more surfactants. The surfactants may be of any nature but are preferably cationic and/or nonionic. The number-average size of the silicone particles in the emulsion generally ranges from 3 nm to 500 nanometres. Preferably, in particular as amino silicones having formula (E), microemulsions are used whose average particle size ranges from 5 nm to 60 nanometres (limits included) and more preferably from 10 nm to 50 nanometres (limits included). Accordingly, according to the invention the microemulsions of amino silicone having formula (E) sold as Finish CT 96 E® or SLM 28020® by Wacker can be used.

Another group of amino silicones corresponding to this definition is represented by the following formula (F):

in which:

- A denotes a linear or branched alkylene radical containing from 4 to 8 carbon atoms and preferably 4 carbon atoms. This radical is preferably linear.

The weight-average molecular weight (Mw) of these amino silicones ranges preferably from 2000 to 1 000 000 and even more particularly from 3500 to 200 000.

A preferred silicone of formula (F) is amodimethicone (INCI name) sold under the tradename XIAMETER® MEM-8299 Cationic Emulsion by Dow Corning.

Another group of amino silicones corresponding to this definition is represented by the following formula (G): H₃ CH CH

H₃C- -Si- o- ^■Si - O— Si " -O— Si CH

I I

A CH CH_Q I CH

(G) n NH

I

(CH₂)₂

NH. m

in which:

- A denotes a linear or branched alkylene radical containing from 4 to 8 carbon atoms and preferably 4 carbon atoms. This radical is preferably branched.

The weight-average molecular weight (Mw) of these amino silicones ranges preferably from 500 to 1 000 000 and even more particularly from 1000 to 200 000.

A silicone having this formula is for example DC2-8566 Amino Fluid by Dow Corning.

c) amino silicones corresponding to formula (H):

in which:

- R₅ represents a monovalent hydrocarbon-based radical containing from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and in particular a C Ci₈ alkyl or C₂-Ci ₈ alkenyl radical, for example methyl;

- R6 represents a divalent hydrocarbon-based radical, in particular a d- Ci 8 alkylene radical or a divalent C Ci₈, for example CrC₈, alkylenoxy radical linked to the Si via an SiC bond;

- Q- is an anion such as a halide ion, in particular chloride, or an organic acid salt (for example acetate); r represents a mean statistical value from 2 to 20 and in particular from 2 to 8;

s represents a mean statistical value from 20 to 200 and in particular from 20 to 50.

Such amino silicones are described more particularly in patent US 4

1 85 087.

d) quaternary ammonium silicones having formula (I):

in which:

- R₇, which may be identical or different, represent a monovalent hydrocarbon-based radical containing from 1 to 1 8 carbon atoms, and in particular a C1 -C18 alkyl radical, a C2-C18 alkenyl radical or a ring containing 5 or 6 carbon atoms, for example methyl;

- R₆ represents a divalent hydrocarbon-based radical, in particular a C C18 alkylene radical or a divalent C Ci₈, for example CrC₈, alkylenoxy radical linked to the Si via an SiC bond;

- Rs, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom, a monovalent hydrocarbon-based radical containing from 1 to 1 8 carbon atoms, and in particular a C Ci₈ alkyl radical, a C₂-Ci₈ alkenyl radical or a -R₆-NHCOR₇ radical;

- X- is an anion such as a halide ion, in particular chloride, or an organic acid salt (for example acetate);

- r represents a mean statistical value from 2 to 200 and in particular from 5 to 1 00;

These silicones are described, for example, in patent application EP-A 0 530 974.

e) amino silicones having formula (J):

(J)

in which:

- R-i , R₂, R3 and R₄, which may be identical or different, denote a C C₄ alkyl radical or a phenyl group;

- R₅ denotes a C C₄ alkyl radical or a hydroxyl group;

- n is an integer ranging from 1 to 5;

- m is an integer ranging from 1 to 5;

and in which x is chosen such that the amine number is between 0.01 and 1 meq/g;

f) multiblockpolyoxyalkylenated amino silicones, of type (AB)n, A being a polysiloxane block and B being a polyoxyalkylenated block containing at least one amine group.

Said silicones are preferably constituted of repeating units having the following general formulae:

[-(SiMe₂0)xSiMe₂ - R -N(R")- R'-0(C2H40)a(C₃H₆0)b -R'-N(H)-R-] or alternatively

[-(SiMe₂0)xSiMe₂ - R -N(R")- R' - 0(C₂H₄0)a(C₃H₆0)b -] in which:

- a is an integer greater than or equal to 1 , preferably ranging from 5 to 200, more particularly ranging from 1 0 to 1 00;

- b is an integer comprised between 0 and 200, preferably ranging from 4 to 1 00, more particularly between from 5 and 30;

- x is an integer ranging from 1 to 1 0 000, more particularly from 1 0 to

5000;

- R" is a hydrogen atom or a methyl;

- R, which may be identical or different, represent a divalent linear or branched C₂-C₁₂ hydrocarbon-based radical, optionally including one or more heteroatoms such as oxygen; preferably, R denotes an ethylene radical, a linear or branched propylene radical, a linear or branched butylene radical, or a - CH₂CH₂CH₂OCH(OH)CH₂- radical; preferentially R denotes a CH₂CH₂CH₂OCH(OH)CH₂- radical;

- R', which may be identical or different, represent a divalent linear or branched C₂-Ci₂ hydrocarbon-based radical, optionally including one or more heteroatoms such as oxygen; preferably, R' denotes an ethylene radical, a linear or branched propylene radical, a linear or branched butylene radical, or a - CH₂CH₂CH₂OCH(OH)CH₂- radical; preferentially R' denotes -CH(CH₃)-CH₂-.

The siloxane blocks preferably represent between 50 and 95 mol% of the total weight of the silicone, more particularly from 70 to 85 mol%.

The amine content is preferably between 0.02 and 0.5 meq/g of copolymer in a 30% solution in dipropylene glycol, more particularly between 0,05 and 0,2.

The weight-average molecular weight (Mw) of the silicone is preferably comprised between 5000 and 1 000 000, more particularly between 10 000 and 200 000.

Mention may be made especially of the silicones sold under the names Silsoft™ A-843 or Silsoft™ A+ by Momentive.

g) the alkylamino silicones corresponding to formula (K) below:

in which:

- x and y are numbers ranging from 1 to 5000; preferably, x ranges from 10 to 2000 and especially from 100 to 1000; preferably, y ranges from 1 to 100;

- Ri and R₂, which may be identical or different, preferably identical, are linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl radicals, comprising 6 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 8 to 24 carbon atoms and especially 12 to 20 carbon atoms;

- A denotes a linear or branched alkylene radical containing from 2 to 8 carbon atoms,

Preferably, A comprises 3 to 6 carbon atoms, especially 4 carbon atoms; preferably, A is branched. Mention may be made especially of the following divalent radicals: -CH₂CH₂CH₂ and -CH₂CH(CH₃)CH₂-.

Preferably, Ri and R₂, which may be identical or different, are saturated linear alkyl radicals comprising 6 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 8 to 24 carbon atoms and especially 12 to 20 carbon atoms; mention may be made in particular of dodecyl, tetradecyl, pentadecyl, hexadecyl, heptadecyl, octadecyl, nonadecyl and eicosyl radicals; and preferentially, Ri and R₂, which may be identical or different, are chosen from hexadecyl (cetyl) and octadecyl (stearyl) radicals.

Preferentially, the silicone is of formula (K) with: - x ranging from 10 to 2000 and especially from 100 to 1000;

- y ranging from 1 to 100;

- A comprising 3 to 6 carbon atoms and especially 4 carbon atoms; preferably, A is branched; and more particularly A is chosen from the following divalent radicals: CH₂CH₂CH₂ and -CH₂CH(CH₃)CH₂-; and

- Ri and R₂, which may be identical or different, being linear, saturated alkyl radicals comprising 6 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 8 to 24 carbon atoms and especially 12 to 20 carbon atoms; chosen in particular from dodecyl, tetradecyl, pentadecyl, hexadecyl, heptadecyl, octadecyl, nonadecyl and eicosyl radicals; preferentially, Ri and R₂, which may be identical or different, being chosen from hexadecyl (cetyl) and octadecyl (stearyl) radicals.

A preferred silicone of formula (K) is bis-cetearylamodimethicone (INCI name).

Mention may be made especially of the silicone sold under the name Silsoft™ AX by Momentive.

Preferably, the amino silicones according to the invention are chosen from the amino silicones of formula (F). A preferred silicone of formula (F) is amodimethicone (INCI name) sold under the tradename XIAMETER® MEM-8299 Cationic Emulsion by Dow Corning.

The at least one amino silicone is present in the first compositions of the invention in an amount of from about 0.4 to about 1 .14% by weight, such as from about 0.6 to about 1 % by weight, preferably from about 0.7 to about 1 % by weight, or more preferably from about 0.8 to about 0.9% by weight, relative to the total weight of the first composition, including all ranges and sub ranges therebetween. In a particular embodiment, the amount of the at least one amino silicone is at about 0.4%, or about 0.43%, or about 0.45%, or about 0.5%, or about 0.55%, or about 0.57%, or about 0.6%, or about 0.65%, or about 0.7%, or about 0.75%,or about 0.78%, or about 0.8%, or about 0.85%, or about 0.9%, or about 0.95%, or about 1 %, or about 1 .1 % or about 1 .14%, by weight, relative to the total weight of the first composition.

CATIONIC POLYMER

The at least one cationic polymer of the present invention is chosen, for example, from homopolymers and copolymers.

Non limiting examples of cationic polymers that can be used in the compositions of the present invention include: derivatives of cationic guar gum, preferably a quaternary ammonium such as those described in US patents 3,589,578 and 4,031 ,307 and such as guar gums containing trialkylammonium cationic groups, for example guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride. Such products are marketed under the trade designations including Jaguar (R) C13 S, Jaguar (R) C 1 5, JAGUAR (R) C 1 7 by Rhodia.

In preferred embodiments, the at least one cationic polymer of the present invention is chosen from guarhydroxypropyltrimoniumchloride.

The at least one cationic polymer is present in the first compositions of the invention in an amount of from about 0.1 to 1 %by weight, such as from about 0.1 3 to about 0.8% by weight, or preferably from about 0.1 5 to about 0.6% or more preferably from about 0.1 75 to about 0.5% by weight, or even more preferably from about 0.2 to about 0.46% by weight, relative to the total weight of the first composition, including all ranges and sub ranges therebetween. In a particular embodiment, the amount of the at least one cationic polymer is at about 0.1 %, or about 0.1 3%, or about 0.1 5%, or about 0.1 7%, or about 0.1 8%, or about 0.19%, or about 0.2%, or about 0.21 %, or about 0.22%, or about 0.23%, or about 0.24%, or about 0.25%, or about 0.28%, or about 0.3%, or about 0.33%, or about 0.35%, or about 0.38%, or about 0.4%, or about 0.43%, or about 0,46%by weight, relative to the total weight of the first composition.

SECOND COSMETIC COMPOSITION FATTY ALCOHOLS

The at least one fatty alcohol that is suitable for use in the invention comprises a fatty alkyl chain of 6 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably of 6 to 30 carbon atoms and preferably of 8 to 30 carbon atoms, wherein the fatty alkyl chain may be linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated.

The at least one fatty alcohol that is suitable for use in the invention may be liquid or solid.

In some embodiments, the at least one fatty alcohol of the present invention includes cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and their mixture (cetearyl alcohol).

In other embodiments, the at least one fatty alcohol is a liquid fatty alcohol. The liquid fatty alcohols of the present invention are preferably saturated and branched. They may possibly include in their structure at least one aromatic or non- cycle. Preferably, they are acyclic. More particularly, the saturated liquid fatty alcohols are chosen from octyldodecanol, isostearyl alcohol, 2-hexyl decanol, and palmityl alcohols, myristyl, stearyl and lauryl ether, and mixtures thereof. Unsaturated liquid fatty alcohols have in their structure at least one double or triple bond, and preferably, one or more double bonds. When multiple double bonds are present, they are preferably the number 2 or 3, and may or may not be conjugated. They may possibly include in their structure at least one aromatic or non-cycle. Preferably, they are acyclic. More particularly, the liquid unsaturated fatty alcohols are selected from oleic alcohol (or oleyl), linoleyl alcohol (or linoley- ether), linolenic alcohol (or linolenyl) and undecylenic alcohol, and mixtures thereof.

In some embodiments, the at least one fatty alcohol of the present invention is chosen from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, octyldodecanol, isostearyl alcohol, 2-hexyl decanol, palmityl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, lauryl alcohol, oleic alcohol (or oleyl), linoleyl alcohol (or linoley- ether), linolenic alcohol (or linolenyl) and undecylenic alcohol, and mixtures thereof.

In certain embodiments, the at least one fatty alcohol of the present invention is preferably chosen from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and their mixture (cetearyl alcohol).

In an embodiment, the at least one fatty alcohol of the present invention is cetearyl alcohol.

The at least one fatty alcohol is present in the second compositions of the invention in an amount of from about 3 to 9% by weight, such as from about 3 to about 8% by weight, or preferably from about 4 to about 7% or more preferably from about 4.5 to about 6.5% by weight, or even more preferably from about 5 to about 6% by weight, relative to the total weight of the second composition, including all ranges and sub ranges therebetween. In a particular embodiment, the amount of the at least one fatty alcohol is at about 3%, or about 3.5%, or about 4%, or about 4.5%, or about 5%, or about 5.5%, or about 6%, or about 6.5%, or about 7%, or about 7.5%, or about 8%, or about 8.5%, or about 9% by weight, relative to the total weight of the second composition.

CATIONIC SURFACTANT

The second cosmetic composition according to the invention also comprises one or more cationic surfactants. They are advantageously chosen from optionally polyoxyalkylenated primary, secondary or tertiary fatty amine salts, quaternary ammonium salts, and mixtures thereof. Mention may be made in particular of:

- quaternary ammonium salts having formula (la):

in which:

the groups Rs to Rn , which may be identical or different, represent a linear or branched aliphatic group containing from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, or an aromatic group such as aryl or alkylaryl, at least one of the groups R₈ to R-n containing from 8 to 30 carbon atoms and preferably from 12 to 24 carbon atoms; it being possible for the aliphatic groups to comprise heteroatoms such as, in particular, oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur or halogens; et

X is an anion that could be chosen from the group consisting of halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, (CrC₄)alkyl sulfates, (CrC₄)alkylsulfonates and (C C₄)alkylarylsulfonates.

The aliphatic groups are chosen, for example, from C1-C30 alkyl, d- C₃₀alkoxy, (C₂-C₆)polyoxyalkylene, CrC₃oalkylamide, (Ci2-C22)alkyl(C₂C6)alkylamido, (Ci2-C₂2)alkyl acetate and C-|-C₃ohydroxyalkyl groups.

Mention may be made of tetraalkylammonium halides, preferably chlorides, such as dialkyldimethylammonium or alkyltnmethylammonium chlorides in which the alkyl group comprises from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, particularly behenyltrimethylammonium, distearyldimethylammonium, cetyltrimethylammonium, and benzyldimethylstearylammonium chlorides.

Mention may also be made of palmitylamidopropyltrimethylammonium halides, preferably chlorides, or stearamidopropyldimethyl(myristyl acetate)- ammonium halides, preferably chlorides, such as the product sold under the name CE RAPHYL® 70 by the company VAN DYK.

- imidazoline quaternary ammonium salts having formula (Ma.):

in which R-12 represents an alkenyl or alkyl group comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, for example fatty acid derivatives of tallow;

Ri3 represents a hydrogen atom, a CrC₄ alkyl group or an alkenyl or alkyl group comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms;

R-I4 represents a CrC₄ alkyl group;

Ri5 represents a hydrogen atom or a C C₄ alkyl group;

X^" is an anion, preferably chosen from the group consisting of halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, (CrC₄)alkyl sulfates, (CrC₄)alkylsulfonates and (d- C₄)alkylarylsulfonates;

Ri2 and Ri₃ preferably denote a mixture of alkenyl or alkyl groups containing from 1 2 to 21 carbon atoms, for example fatty acid derivatives of tallow, R-I 4 denotes a methyl group, and R15 denotes a hydrogen atom. A product of this kind is sold for example under the name REWOQUAT® W 75 by the company REWO.

- quaternary di- or triammonium salts having formula (Ilia):

2+

R 17 R 19

^■N— (CH₂)₃— N—

^{2X ~} (Ilia)

R R

π18 20 in which :

R16 denotes an alkyl group containing from 1 6 to 30 carbon atoms, which is optionally hydroxylated and/or interrupted with one or more oxygen atoms,

Ri 7 represents a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group containing from 1 to 4 carbon atoms or a group -(CH₂)₃-N⁺(Ri ₆a) (Ri 7a) (Ri 8a) ; wherein R_{1 6a}, R_{1 7a}, Ri sa, which may be identical or different, are chosen from hydrogen and an alkyl group comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms

R18, R19, R20 and R₂i , which may be identical or different, are chosen from hydrogen and an alkyl group comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms; and

X^" is an anion preferably chosen from the group consisting of halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates, (CrC₄)alkyl sulfates, (CrC₄)alkylsulfonates and (d - d)alkylarylsulfonates, in particular methyl sulfate and ethyl sulfate.

Such compounds are, for example, FINQUAT CT-P (Quaternium 89) and FINQUAT CT (Quaternium 75) sold by the company FINETEX.

- quaternary ammonium salts containing one or more ester functions having the following formula (IVa):

in which:

R22 is chosen from C C₆ alkyl groups and CrC₆hydroxyalkyl or d - C₆dihydroxyalkyl groups;

R23 is chosen from the group R₂6-C(=O)-; hydrocarbon-based linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C1 -C22 groups R27; and a hydrogen atom;

R25 is chosen from the group R₂8-C(=O)-; hydrocarbon-based linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated Ci -C₆ groups R₂g; and a hydrogen atom;

R₂₄, R26 and R₂8, which may be identical or different, are chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C7-C21 hydrocarbon-based groups;

r, s and t, which may be identical or different, are integers ranging from

2 to 6;

r1 and t1 , which may be identical or different, are equal to 0 or 1 ;

r2+ r1 = 2 r and t1 + t2= 2 t;

y is an integer ranging from 1 to 1 0;

x and z, which may be identical or different, are integers ranging from 0 to 1 0;

the sum x + y + z is from 1 to 1 5,

X is an anion;

with the proviso that, when x is 0 then R23 denotes R₂7, and that when z is 0 then R25 denotes R₂g.

The alkyl groups R22 may be linear or branched, and more particularly linear. Preferably, R22 denotes a methyl, ethyl, hydroxyethyl or dihydroxypropyl group, and more particularly a methyl or ethyl group.

When R23 is an R₂7 hydrocarbon group, it may have from 1 2 to 22 carbon atoms, or may have from 1 to 3 carbon atoms.

When R25 is an R₂g hydrocarbon group, it preferably has 1 to 3 carbon atoms.

Advantageously, R₂₄, R26 and R₂s, which are identical or different, are chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C11 -C21 hydrocarbon groups, and more particularly from linear or branched Cn -C₂i alkyl and alkenyl groups.

Preferably, x and z, which may be identical or different, are equal to 0 or

1 .

Advantageously, y is equal to 1 .

Advantageously, the sum x + y + z is from 1 to 1 0.

Preferably, r, s and t, which may be identical or different, are equal to 2 or 3, and even more particularly are equal to 2.

The anion X is preferably a halide, preferably chloride, bromide or iodide, a (C C₄)alkylsulfate, (Ci -C₄)alkyl sulfonate or (Ci -C₄)alkylaryl sulfonate, methanesulfonate, phosphate, nitrate, tosylate, an anion derived from an organic acid, such as acetate or lactate, or any other anion that is compatible with the ammonium comprising an ester function. The anion X^" is more particularly chloride, methyl sulfate or ethyl sulfate.

Use is made more particularly, in the composition according to the invention, of the ammonium salts having formula (IVa) in which:

- R₂₂ denotes a methyl or ethyl group,

- x and y are equal to 1 ,

- z is equal to 0 or 1 ,

- r, s and t are equal to 2,

- R23 is chosen from the group R₂6-C(=O)-; methyl groups, ethyl groups or hydrocarbon-based Ci₄-C₂2 groups; and a hydrogen atom,

- R25 is chosen from the group R₂8-C(=O)-; and a hydrogen atom,

- R24, R26 and R₂8, which may be identical or different, are chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C13-C17 hydrocarbon groups, and preferably from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C13-C17 alkyl and alkenyl groups.

The hydrocarbon-based groups are advantageously linear.

Among the compounds of formula (IVa), examples that may be mentioned include salts, in particular the chloride or methyl sulfate of diacyloxyethyldimethylammonium, diacyloxyethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium, monoacyloxyethyldihydroxyethylmethylammonium, triacyloxyethylmethylammonium or monoacyloxyethylhydroxyethyldimethylammonium, and mixtures thereof. The acyl groups preferably contain 14 to 1 8 carbon atoms and are obtained more particularly from a plant oil, such as palm oil or sunflower oil. When the compound contains several acyl groups, these groups may be identical or different.

These products are obtained, for example, by direct esterification of triethanolamine, triisopropanolamine, alkyldiethanolamine or alkyldiisopropanolamine, which are optionally oxyalkylenated, with fatty acids or with fatty acid mixtures of plant or animal origin, or by transesterification of the methyl esters thereof. This esterification is followed by a quaternization by means of an alkylating agent, such as an alkyl halide, preferably methyl or ethyl halide, a dialkyl sulfate, preferably methyl or ethyl sulfate, methyl methanesulfonate, methyl para- toluenesulfonate, glycol chlorohydrin or glycerol chlorohydrin. Such compounds are, for example, sold under the names DEHYQUART® by the company HENKEL, STEPANQUAT® by the company STEPAN, NOXAMIUM® by the company CECA or REWOQUAT® WE 1 8 by the company REWO-WITCO.

Use may be made of a mixture of quaternary ammonium monoester, diester and triester salts with a weight majority of diester salts. Use may also be made of the ammonium by the company KAO under the name QUARTAMIN BTC 1 31 .

Preferably, the ammonium salts containing at least one ester function contain two ester functions.

Preferably, the cationic surfactants are chosen from the compounds of formula (la) and the compounds of formula (IVa), preferably from cetyltrimethylammonium, behenyltrimethylammonium, and dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium salts, and mixtures thereof, and salts containing at least one ester function that are described in patents US-A-4 874 554 and US-A-4 1 37 1 80. Use may also be made of behenoylhydroxypropyltrimethylammonium chloride, more particularly from behenyltrimethylammonium chloride or methosulfate, cetyltrimethylammonium chloride or methosulfate, and dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium chloride or methosulfate, and mixtures thereof. Even more preferentially, the cationic surfactant is a behenyltrimethylammonium salt.

In certain embodiments, the at least one cationic surfactant of the present invention is chosen from behenyltrimethylammonium chloride, cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, and mixtures thereof.

The at least one cationic surfactant is present in the second compositions of the invention in an amount of from about 1 .5 to 4% by weight, such as from about 1 .55 to about 3.5% by weight, or preferably from about 1 .6 to about 3% or more preferably from about 1 .6 to about 2.5% by weight, or even more preferably from about 1 .63 to less than about 1 .85% such as from about 1 .63% to about 1 .8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the second composition, including all ranges and sub ranges therebetween. In a particular embodiment, the amount of the at least one cationic surfactant is at about 0.5%, or about 0.55%, or about 0.6%, or about 0.65%, or about 0.7%, or about 0.75%, or about 0.8%, or about 0.85%, or about 0.9%, or about 0.95%, or about 1 %, or about 1 .5%, or about 1 .6%, or about 1 .63%, or about 1 .7%, or about 1 .8%, or about 1 .9%, or about 2%, or about 2.1 %, or about 2.1 5%, or about 2.2%, or about 2.4%, or about 2.6%, or about 2.8%, or about 3%, or about 3.5%, or about 4%by weight, relative to the total weight of the second composition.

OILY COMPONENT

The oily component of the present invention are chosen from various types of oils including, mineral oil, triglycerides, such as castor oil, lanolin oil, C10-18 triglycerides, caprylic/capric/triglycerides, and plant oils such as coconut oilalmond oil, apricot kernel oil, avocado oil, babassu oil, evening primrose oil, camelina sativa seed oil, grape seed oil, macadamia ternifoliaseed oil, corn oil, meadowfoam seed oil, mink oil, olive oil, palm kernel oil, safflower oil, sesame oil, soybean oil, sunflower oil, wheat germ oil, and camellia reticulataseed oil, and mixtures thereof.

Also suitable as the oily component are nonvolatile hydrocarbons such as isoparaffins, hydrogenated polyisobutene, mineral oil, squalene, petrolatum, and mixtures thereof.

In certain embodiments, the oily component of the present invention is chosen from mineral oil, triglycerides, plant oils, hydrocarbon oils, and mixtures thereof.

In certain other embodiments, the oily component of the present invention includes mineral oil.

The at least one oily composition is present in the second compositions of the invention in an amount of less than 3% by weight, such as from about 0.5 to 2.9% by weight, such as from about 0.75 to about 2.5% by weight, or preferably from about 1 to about 2% or more preferably from about 1 .2 to about 1 .8% by weight, or even more preferably from about 1 .27 to about 1 .63% by weight, including all ranges and sub ranges therebetween. In a particular embodiment, the amount of the at least one oily component is at about 0.5%, or about 0.6%, or about 0.7%, or about 0.8%, or about 1 %, or about 1 .2%, or about 1 .27%, or about 1 .3%, or about 1 .4%, or about 1 .5%, or about 1 .6%, or about 1 .63%, or about 1 .7 %, or about 1 .8%, or about 1 .9%, or about 2%, or about 2.2%, or about 2.5%, or about 2.8%, or about 2.9% by weight, relative to the total weight of the second composition.

In an embodiment, the oily component of the second composition of the present invention is not a silicone oil. Said silicone oil includes volatile or nonvolatile nonionic silicone fluids, silicone resins, silicone polymers, and silicone semi-solids or solids.

In certain embodiments, the second cosmetic of the present invention is substantially free of an anionic surfactant selected from sulfate surfactants, sulfonate surfactants, and carboxylic (carboxylate) surfactants.

The term "substantially free" as used herein means that there is less than 1 % by weight, of anionic surfactants added to the second composition, and does not include anionic surfactants that may be present in raw materials as commercially available from suppliers and employed in the second composition.

WATER

The compositions according to the invention comprise water. The water used may be sterile demineralized water and/or a floral water such as rose water, cornflower water, chamomile water or lime water, and/or a natural thermal or mineral water such as, for example: water from Vittel, water from the Vichy basin, water from Uriage, water from La Roche Posay, water from La Bourboule, water from Enghien- les-Bains, water from Saint Gervais-les-Bains, water from Neris-les-Bains, water from Allevar-les-Bains, water from Digne, water from Maizieres, water from Neyrac-les- Bains, water from Lons-le-Saunier, water from EauxBonnes, water from Rochefort, water from Saint Christau, water from Les Fumades, water from Tercis-les-Bains or water from Avene. Water may also comprise reconstituted thermal water, that is to say a water comprising trace elements such as zinc, copper, magnesium, etc., reconstituting the characteristics of a thermal water.

Each of the first and second compositions according to the invention comprises water in an amount ranging from about 50% to about 99% by weight, preferably from about 65% to about 95% by weight, and most preferably from about 70% to about 92% by weight, relative to the total weight of the first or second composition.

WATER-SOLUBLE SOLVENT (OPTIONAL)

The compositions according to the invention optionally may comprise one or more water-soluble solvent. The term "water-soluble solvent" means a compound that is liquid at room temperature and water-miscible (miscibility with water of greater than 50% by weight at 25 °C and atmospheric pressure).

Non-limiting examples of water-soluble solvents useful in the invention include, for example, glycols containing from 2 to 8 carbon atoms, such as ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, 1 ,3-butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, and dipropylene glycol, glycerin, and mixtures thereof

When present in the composition according to the invention, the water- soluble solvent is preferably present in the composition according to the invention in an amount of from about 0.01 % to 10% by weight, preferably in an amount of from about 0.05% to 5% by weight, and most preferably 0.1 % to 1 % by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

The composition according to the invention may also comprise one or more standard additives that are well known in the art, chosen from fragrances, preservatives, pH adjusting agents, thickening/viscosity-modifying agents, colorants, chelating agents, antioxidants, moisturizers, emollients, amino acids, proteins, biological polymers, active agents, ceramides or pseudoceramides, waxes, vitamins or provitamins, and mixtures thereof.

A person skilled in the art will take care to select the optional standard additives and the amount thereof such that they do not harm the properties of the compositions of the present invention.

These standard additives are generally present in the composition according to the invention in an amount ranging from about 0 to about 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

In certain embodiments, the first cosmetic composition of the present invention is an aqueous composition, such as a lotion, and may be provided in the form of a shampoo or cleanser.

In certain other embodiments, the second cosmetic composition of the present invention is an aqueous or an emulsion (water in oil or oil in water) composition, and may be provided in the form of a conditioning composition. When the second cosmetic composition is an emulsion, the composition may be in the form of a cream.

In one embodiment, the present invention to a process of cleansing and conditioning, wherein the first cosmetic composition is first applied onto hair (wet or dry), massaged into the hair fibers, then rinsed out with water, after which the second cosmetic composition is applied onto the wet hair, left on the hair from 0 up to about 10 minutes, while optionally massaging the second cosmetic composition onto then hair fibers, then rinsed out with water.

In another embodiment, the first cosmetic may be used on hair by itself. In yet another embodiment, the second cosmetic composition may be used on hair by itself.

In certain embodiments, the first cosmetic composition is applied on hair and then the second cosmetic composition is applied on the hair, with optional rinsing of the hair with water in between the application of the first cosmetic composition and the second cosmetic composition onto the hair.

While the invention has been described with reference to a preferred embodiment, it will be understood by those skilled in the art that various changes may be made and equivalents may be substituted for elements thereof without departing from the scope of the invention. In addition, many modifications may be made to adapt a particular situation or material to the teachings of the invention without departing from the essential scope thereof. Therefore, it is intended that the invention not be limited to the particular embodiment disclosed as the best mode contemplated for carrying out this invention, but that the invention will include all embodiments falling within the scope of the appended claims.

The compositions according to the invention can be manufactured by known processes used generally in the cosmetics, including the processes described in the examples below.

The examples below are given as illustrations of the present invention. EXAMPLES

Example 1 - Formulations

Shampoo formulas (first cosmetic composition) of the present invention comprising different amounts of surfactants, amino silicone and cationic polymer can be prepared in water according to the table below.

Table 1 .

^*in accordance with the invention, the total amount of surfactants in the formula ranges from 7 to 1 1 .4% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition and the weight ratio of the anionic surfactants to the amphoteric surfactant is greater than

One example of the inventive shampoo formula was prepared and presented in the table below

Table 2. Inventive Formula A (First Cosmetic composition, Shampoo)

INCI US NAME FORMULA A

% by Weight (active

matter)

COCO-BETAINE^a 1 .97

SODIUM LAURETH SULFATE^bAND SODIUM LAURYL 7.2

SULFATE⁰

AMODIMETHICONE^d 0.868 INCI US NAME FORMULA A

% by Weight (active

matter)

TRIDECETH-6 d and CETRIMONIUM CHLORIDE ^d 0.089

GUAR HYDROXYPROPYLTRIMONIUM CHLORIDE⁶ 0.23

Water, organic solvent, and additives such as fragrance, Q.S. 1 00

preservatives, pH adjusters and thickening/viscosity- modifying agents (as needed or desired)

Commercially available as DEHYTON AB 30 from BASF or GENAGEN KB, commercially available from Clariant, 30% by weight active matter

"commercially available as TEXAPON AOS 225 UP from BASF, 70% by weight active matter

Commercially available as TEXAPON LS 30from BASF, 29% by weight active matter Commercially available as XIAMETER® MEM-8299 Cationic Emulsion, from Dow Corning, Amodimethicone = 57.5% by weight active matter, Trideceth-6 = 4.92% by weight active matter, cetrimonium chloride = 1 % by weight active matter

Commercially available as JAGUAR C-1 3-S, from Rhodia (Solvay), 98.25% by weight active matter

In making Formula Ain Table 1 , the following procedure was used:

Sodium laureth sulfate and sodium lauryl sulfatewere combined with a thickening or viscosity modifying agent such as carbomer in an aqueous solution.The amodimethicone(in emulsion form)was stirred into the solutionfor a few minutes. As a separate mixture,guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride was added to water (in an amount of about 20% by weight of the total amount of water in the formula) with fast stirring. The separate mixture was added to the rest of the formula and the resulting mixture was stirred for about 15 minutes. A thickening or viscosity modifying agent such as glycol distearate was added and mixed. Coco betaine and finally the fragrance were added. If necessary, pH was adjusted with Citric Acid or Sodium Hydroxide. Also, if necessary, viscosity was adjusted with hexylene glycol or sodium chloride.

Optional ingredients and additives may be included in Formula A: fragrance, preservatives, plant oils and extracts, colorants, honey, ceramide, shea butter, royal jelly. Conditioner formulas (second cosmetic composition) of the present invention comprising different amounts of fatty alcohol, cationic surfactant, and oil component can be prepared in water according to the table below.

Table 3.

One example of the inventive conditioner formula was prepared and is presented in the table below

Table 4. Inventive Formula B (Second Cosmetic composition, Conditioner)

'commercially available as LANETTE Dfrom BASF, 100% by weight active matter Commercially available as GENAMIN KDMP from Clariant, 79% by weight active matter, remainder, water and isopropyl alcohol

hcommercially available as MARCOL 82 from Exxon Mobil Chemical, 100% by weight active matter

In making Formula B in Table 2, the following procedure was used: All the ingredients (except for fragrance) were added into a beaker with water in an amount of 30% by weight of the total amount of water in the composition. The mixture was heated until 65 °C/ 149F, sheared for 10 minutes and allowed to cool down by adding the rest of the water, little by little. When the temperature has reached 30 °C/ 86F or below, the fragrance was added.

Optional ingredients and additives may be included in Formula B: fragrance, preservatives, plant oils and extracts, colorants, honey, ceramide, shea butter, cacao seed butter, royal jelly.

Example 2 Performance Evaluation A

Test Protocol

In a home use study, consumers compared the cosmetic properties imparted by the shampoo and conditioner of the present invention to those imparted by a commercial shampoo and a commercial conditioner. The consumers used the test compositions in place of their regular shampoo and conditioner.

Table 5. Main ingredients of Comparative Formula C (commercial shampoo)

INCI US NAME

Sodium laureth sulfate and sodium lauryl sulfate

CocamidopropylBetaine

Dimethicone

Glycol distearate

Polyquaternium-6

Water

Table 6. Main ingredients of Comparative Formula D (commercial conditioner)

INCI US NAME

Behentrimoniummethosulfate

Dicetyldimonium chloride

BisaminopropylDimethicone

Water

Table 7. Results

Invention: Formula A + Comparative: Formula C

Formula B + Formula D

(shampoo + conditioner;

Multi-component hair

cosmetic agent)

^*v = statistically significant difference

^** ratings in parentheses indicate the percentage of consumers indicating that they totally agree to the presence of the designated attribute

Summary:

Overall, the use of the inventive multi-component hair cosmetic agent comprised of the inventive formulas A and B (shampoo and conditioner) provided more positive and desirable attributes to the hair compared to the comparative shampoo/conditioner treatment. It was discovered that the invention's hair cosmetic agent produced a bigger amount of foam than the test panelists were used to; a soft touch to the hair and untangled hair after the shampoo application; a very easy conditioner rinsing; and a very fast transformation after the conditioner application. It was also discovered that the invention's hair cosmetic agent provided better detangling benefits, better frizz and volume control, hair shine, more defined curls, more suppleness/softness, no unwanted residue, and a feeling of lighter and looser hair (with more movement).

Example 3 Performance Evaluation B

Test Protocol

In a home use study, consumers compared the cosmetic properties imparted by the shampoo and conditioner of the present invention as exemplified in Tables 1 and 2 (formulas A and B) to those imparted by a comparative shampoo and a comparative conditioner. The consumers used the test compositions in place of their regular shampoo and conditioner.

Table 8. Main ingredients of Comparative Shampoo Formulas E, F and G

Table 9. Main ingredients of Comparative Conditioner Formulas H, I, and J

INCI US NAME H I J

% by weight (active matter)^*

Cetearyl alcohol 7 7 4

Behentrimonium chloride 2.37 2.37 1 .975

Mineral Oil 2.99 2.99 1 .99

Water, organic solvent, and additives Q.S. 100 Q.S. 100 Q.S. 100 such as fragrance, preservatives, pH INCI US NAME H 1 J adjusters and thickening/viscosity- modifying agents (as needed or desired)

^* Commercial availability of ingredients are the same as in Table 4 above

Summary: Overall, the consumers rated the cosmetic, cleansing and conditioning properties imparted by Formulas A and B (compositions of the invention) to hair as being comparable to those provided by the comparative compositions even when the shampoo composition of the invention contained less total amount of anionic and amphoteric surfactants and the conditioner composition of the invention contained less amounts of the mineral oil.

Claims

SET OF CLAIMS

1 . A multi-component hair cosmetic agent for cleansing and conditioning hair, the hair cosmetic agent comprising:

a) a first cosmetic composition comprising:

ii) at least one amino silicone;

iii) at least one cationic polymer; and

iv) water;

wherein the weight ratio of the anionic surfactant to the amphoteric surfactant is greater than 3, and preferably ranges from about 3.5 to about 4.5;and b) a second cosmetic composition comprising:

i) at least one fatty alcohol;

ii) at least one cationic surfactant;

iii) at least one oily component; and

iv) water.

2. The multi-component hair cosmetic agent according to the preceding claim, wherein the at least one anionic surfactant is selected from sulfate surfactants, sulfonate surfactants, carboxylic (carboxylate) surfactants, and mixtures thereof, and preferably from sulfate surfactants.

3. The multi-component hair cosmetic agent according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the at least one amphoteric surfactant is selected from (C8-C20)alkylbetaines, (C8-C20)alkylamido (C1 -C6)alkylbetaines, sulfobetaines, (C8-C20)alkylsulfobetaines, (C8-C20)alkylamido(C1 - C6)alkylsulfobetaines, (C8-C20)alkylamphoacetate, (C8-C20)alkylamphodiacetate, and their salts, and mixtures thereof.

4. The multi-component hair cosmetic agent according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the total amount of surfactants in the surfactant mixture of the first composition ranges preferably from about 8% to about 1 1 .4% by weight, more preferably from about 9% to about 1 1 .2% by weight, and even more preferably from about 9% to about 1 1 % by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

5. The multi-component hair cosmetic agent according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the amount of anionic surfactants in the surfactant mixture of the first composition ranges from about 6% to about 1 1 % by weight, preferably from about 6.24% to about 9.25% by weight, more preferably from about 6.5% to about 9% by weight, and even more preferably from about 7% to about 8.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

6. The multi-component hair cosmetic agent according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the amount of amino silicone ranges from about 0.4% to about 1 .14% by weight, preferably from about 0.6% to about 1 % by weight, more preferably from about 0.7% to about 1 % by weight, and even more preferably from about 0.8% to about 0.9% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

7. The multi-component hair cosmetic agent according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the at least one cationic polymer is selected from guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride.

8. The multi-component hair cosmetic agent according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the amount of cationic polymer ranges from about 0.1 % to about 1 % by weight, preferably ranging about from about 0.1 5% to about 0.6% by weight, more preferably from about 0.1 75% to about 0.5% by weight, even more preferably from about 0.2% to about 0.46% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

9. The multi-component hair cosmetic agent according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the at least one fatty alcohol is selected from linear saturated alcohols comprising from 6 to 40 carbon atoms and preferably from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol (mixture of cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol), octyldodecanol, isostearyl alcohol, 2-hexyl decanol, palmityl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, lauryl alcohol, oleic alcohol (or oleyl), linoleyl alcohol (or linoley- ether), linolenic alcohol (or linolenyl) and undecylenic alcohol, and mixtures thereof, and preferably from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, and cetearyl alcohol, and more preferably, from cetearyl alcohol.

1 0. The multi-component hair cosmetic agent according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the amount of fatty alcohol ranges from about 3% to about 9% by weight, preferably from about 4% to about 7% by weight, more preferably from about 4.5% to about 6.5% by weight, and even more preferably from about 5% to about 6% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

1 1 . The multi-component hair cosmetic agent according to any of the preceding claims, wherein the at least one cationic surfactant is selected from optionally polyoxyalkenylated primary, secondary, tertiary fatty amine salts, quaternary ammonium salts, and mixtures thereof, and preferably from quaternary ammonium salts, and more preferably from cetrimonium chloride, behentrimonium chloride, and mixtures thereof.

1 2. The multi-component hair cosmetic agent according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the amount of cationic surfactant ranges from about

1 .5% to about 4% by weight, preferably from about 1 .6% to about 3% by weight, and more preferably from about 1 .6% to about 2.5% by weight, and even more preferably from about 1 .63% to less than 1 .85% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

1 3. The multi-component hair cosmetic agent according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the at least one oily component is selected from triglycerides, mineral oil, plant oils, hydrocarbon oils, lanolin derivatives, castor oils, and mixtures thereof, and preferably from mineral oil, triglycerides, plant oils, hydrocarbon oils, and mixtures thereof.

14. The multi-component hair cosmetic agent according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the amount of oily component is less than 3% by weight, or ranges from about 0.5% to about 2.9% by weight, preferably from about 1 % to about 2% by weight, more preferably from about 1 .2% to about 1 .8% by weight, and even more preferably from about 1 .27% to about 1 .63% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

1 5. The multi-component hair cosmetic agent according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the second composition is substantially free of an anionic surfactant selected from sulfate surfactants, sulfonate surfactants, carboxylic (carboxylate) surfactants.

1 6. The multi-component hair cosmetic agent according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the first cosmetic composition is a cleansing or shampoo composition and wherein the second cosmetic composition is a conditioner composition.

1 7. A cosmetic composition comprising: i) a surfactant mixture comprising at least one anionic surfactant and at least one amphoteric surfactant;

ii) at least one amino silicone;

iii) at least one cationic polymer; and

iv) water;

wherein the total amount of surfactants in the surfactant mixture ranges from about 7% to about 1 1 .4% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition;

wherein the weight ratio of the anionic surfactant to the amphoteric surfactant is greater than 3, and preferably ranges from about 3.5 to about 4.5; and wherein the composition is a hair cleansing or hair shampoo composition.

1 8. The cosmetic composition according to claim 1 7, wherein the composition is capable of being used as a first cosmetic composition in a multi- component hair cosmetic agent for cleansing and conditioning hair, the multi- component hair cosmetic agent further comprising a second cosmetic composition comprising:

i) from about 3% to about 9% by weight of at least one fatty alcohol selected from cetearyl alcohol;

ii) from about 1 .5% to about 4% by weight of at least one cationic surfactant selected from cetrimonium chloride, behentrimonium chloride, and mixtures thereof; and

iii) from about 0.5% to about 2.9% by weight of least one oily component selected from mineral oil, triglycerides, plant oils, hydrocarbon oils, and mixtures thereof;

wherein the second composition is a hair conditioner composition; and all weights being relative to the total weight of the second composition.

1 9. The first cosmetic composition according to claim 1 8, wherein:

(i) the surfactant mixture is present in an amount of from about 7% to about 1 1 .4% by weight; the at least one anionic surfactant is selected from sulfate surfactants, preferably from sodium laureth sulfate, sodium lauryl sulfate, and mixtures thereof; and the at least one amphoteric surfactant is selected from (C8- C20)alkylbetaines, preferably from coco betaine, cocamidopropylbetaine, cocoamphoacetate, cocoamphodiacetate, and their salts, and mixtures thereof; (ii) the at least one amino silicone is present in an amount of from about 0.6% to about 1 % by weight and is selected from amodimethicone; and

(iii) the at least one cationic polymer is present in an amount of from about 0.13% to about 0.8% by weight and is selected from guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride;

all weights being relative to the total weight of the first cosmetic composition.

20. A process of cleansing and conditioning hair, the process comprising the following steps:

a) application to the hair of a first cosmetic composition comprising: i) from about 7% to about 1 1 .4% by weight of a surfactant mixture comprising at least one anionic surfactant selected from sulfate surfactants, preferably from sodium laureth sulfate, sodium lauryl sulfate, and mixtures thereof and at least one amphoteric surfactant selected from (C₈-C₂o)alkyl betaines, preferably from coco betaine, cocamidopropylbetaine, cocoamphoacetate, cocoamphodiacetate, and their salts, and mixtures thereof;

ii) from about 0.4% to about 1 .14% by weight of at least one amino silicone selected from amodimethicone;

iii) from about 0.1 % to about 1 % by weight of at least one cationic polymer selected from guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride; and

iv) water;

all weights being relative to the total weight of the first composition; wherein the weight ratio of the anionic surfactant to the amphoteric surfactant is greater than 3, and preferably ranges from about 3.5 to about 4.5;and b) application to the hair of a second cosmetic composition comprising: i) from about 3% to about 9% by weight of at least one fatty alcohol selected from cetearyl alcohol;

ii) from about 1 .5% to about 4% by weight of at least one cationic surfactant selected from cetrimonium chloride, behentrimonium chloride, and mixtures thereof;

iii) from about 0.5% to about 2.9% by weight of least one oily component selected from mineral oil, triglycerides, plant oils, hydrocarbon oils, and mixtures thereof; and

iv) water; all weights being relative to the total weight of the second composition.

21 . The process according to claim 20, wherein the following steps are conducted on hair in this order: application to the hair of the first cosmetic composition, optionally, a rinsing step on the hair with water, application to the hair of the second cosmetic composition, leaving the second cosmetic composition on the hair for 10 seconds to 10 minutes, and a rinsing step on the hair with water.

22. A kit comprising:

a) a first cosmetic composition comprising:

ii) at least one amino silicone;

iii) at least one cationic polymer; and

iv) water;

wherein the weight ratio of the anionic surfactant to the amphoteric surfactant is greater than 3, and preferably ranges from about 3.5 to about 4.5; and b) a second cosmetic composition comprising:

i) at least one fatty alcohol;

ii) at least one cationic surfactant;

iii) at least one oily component; and

iv) water;

the first and second compositions each being packaged in a separate packaging assembly.