WO2014207715A2

WO2014207715A2 - Pemulen starch emulsified gel

Info

Publication number: WO2014207715A2
Application number: PCT/IB2014/062662
Authority: WO
Inventors: Isabelle Bossant; Lise-Laure DUNOYER MORALI
Original assignee: L'oreal
Priority date: 2013-06-27
Filing date: 2014-06-27
Publication date: 2014-12-31
Also published as: WO2014207715A3; FR3007645A1

Abstract

The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least 13% by weight of starch relative to the total weight of the composition, at least one emulsifying polymer and ethanol in an amount of from 5% to 30% by weight of relative to the total weight of the composition. The present invention also relates to a cosmetic composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least 10% by weight of starch relative to the total weight of the composition, at least one emulsifying polymer, ethanol in an amount of from 5% to 30% by weight of relative to the total weight of the composition and at least one additional filler chosen from aerogel, perlite, and mixtures thereof. The invention also relates to the cosmetic use of these compositions for reducing and/or limiting and/or preventing the flow of sweat from facial and/or bodily skin, and also for matting the skin and/or attenuating the sheen and/or glare of facial and/or bodily skin. The invention is also directed towards a cosmetic treatment process for caring for and/or making up facial and/or bodily skin.

Description

Pemulen starch emulsified gel

The present invention relates to the cosmetic field and more particularly to a cosmetic composition that is useful especially for reducing the flow of sweat and/or for attenuating the shininess of facial and/or bodily skin.

The present invention also relates to a cosmetic treatment process for caring for and/or making up the skin, which consists in applying to the surface of the skin an effective amount of such a composition.

In particular, a cosmetic composition according to the invention may be in the form of a gel, a foundation, a tinted or non-tinted cream, a cream-gel, a care cream or an antisun product and may be available in a tube or in a jar or in the form of a roll-on, sticks, pump-dispenser bottles, an aerosol or a spray.

The shininess of the skin may be linked to substantial secretion of sebum and/or sweat resulting from a physical activity or climatic conditions.

Obtaining a matt effect on the skin is highly desired by users who have combination skin or greasy skin, and also for cosmetic compositions that are intended to be used in hot and humid climates. The highlights caused by an excess of sebum and/or sweat on the surface of the skin are, in effect, generally considered unaesthetic.

Shiny skin also generally gives rise to poorer staying power of the makeup, which thus has a tendency to become degraded in the course of the day.

It is known practice to use, as antiperspirant agents, aluminium salts or aluminium/zirconium salts, for instance aluminium and/or zirconium chlorohydrates, but these salts have the drawback of being irritant and of being poorly tolerated, especially by people with sensitive skin. In addition, their antiperspirant efficacy is limited when they are used alone and their use in high concentrations in order to obtain good efficacy results in formulation difficulties.

Compositions based on deodorant active agents and/or antiperspirant active agents, which are intended to be applied to the skin and which contain body powders such as talc, are moreover known.

Powders for absorbing sebum and thus making the skin matt by a mechanical effect are also known.

However, pulverulent compositions have several drawbacks.

Specifically, pulverulent compositions consist of powders that have different apparent densities and, during their handling and storage, segregation of the constituents takes place, with the heaviest collecting at the bottom of the container in which the composition is contained, and the lightest at the top. Thus, the pulverulent composition taken up by the consumer at the start of use of the product may be very volatile and an appreciable amount of product may thus be lost.

Powders also have a tendency to be sensitive to ambient humidity, to agglomerate and to leave white marks on the skin and/or clothing.

In addition, compositions in powder form give off dust during their handling and can consequently be harmful, toxic or even irritant to the nasal cavity, the mouth, the throat and the lungs.

There is thus a need to prepare compositions that both are stable and afford good mattifying and/or antiperspirant efficacy. It is moreover also sought for these compositions additionally to have a comfortable and pleasant sensory feel on the skin, in particular freshness, easy spreadability, rapid penetration into the skin, softness, creaminess and/or lightness of the textures.

There is also a need to prepare compositions that are capable of giving a very powdery skin finish and that do not leave any white marks on application, either on the skin or on textiles.

The Applicant has discovered, surprisingly, the possibility of making an aqueous gel or a cream-gel comprising a large amount of starch, at least one emulsifying polymer and ethanol, which satisfies these needs.

Thus, the present invention relates to a cosmetic composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least 13% by weight of starch relative to the total weight of the composition, at least one emulsifying polymer and ethanol in an amount of from 5% to 30% by weight of relative to the total weight of the composition.

The present invention also relates to a cosmetic composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least 10% by weight of starch relative to the total weight of the composition, at least one emulsifying polymer, ethanol in an amount of from 5% to 30% by weight of relative to the total weight of the composition and at least one additional filler chosen from aerogel, perlite, and mixtures thereof.

The present invention describes a cosmetic composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least 10% by weight of starch relative to the total weight of the composition, at least one emulsifying polymer and at least 5% by weight of ethanol relative to the total weight of the composition.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "physiologically acceptable medium" means a medium that is non-toxic and that can be applied to the skin, the lips, the hair, the eyelashes, the eyebrows and the nails, which has a pleasant colour, odour and feel and which does not give rise to any unacceptable discomfort (stinging, tautness or redness) liable to put the consumer off using this composition comprising such a support.

A composition according to the invention is intended for topical application.

A composition according to the invention has the advantage of having good harmlessness and good cosmetic properties, i.e. a uniform, light and pleasant texture on application.

In addition, it is stable over time. In the context of the invention, it is considered that a composition is stable if no change in its macroscopic or microscopic appearance or in its physicochemical characteristics (pH, viscosity) is observed after storing it at room temperature, at 40°C and at 45°C, for a period of two months.

A cosmetic composition in accordance with the invention also has the advantage not only of absorbing the water present in sweat (or perspiration), but also the oily materials, such as sebum, exuded by the skin, without, however, giving an impression of dryness.

Thus, a composition according to the invention is stable while at the same time affording good matting and antiperspirant efficacy.

In addition to a comfortable and pleasant sensory feel on the skin, in particular freshness and softness, a composition according to the invention spreads easily on the skin and penetrates rapidly therein.

Another advantage of a composition according to the invention is that it gives a very powdery skin finish without leaving white marks on application on the skin or on textiles that come into contact with the treated skin.

Although a composition according to the invention can be used by any consumer, it more particularly satisfies the requirements of consumers living in countries whose climate is hot and humid for most of the year. Among these countries, mention may be made especially of those located in South-East Asia and Latin America, and also India.

A subject of the invention is also a cosmetic treatment process for caring for and/or making up facial and/or bodily skin, characterized in that a cosmetic composition according to the invention is applied to the skin.

According to another aspect, a subject of the invention is the cosmetic use of a composition according to the invention for reducing and/or limiting and/or preventing the flow of sweat from facial and/or bodily skin. According to yet another aspect, a subject of the invention is the cosmetic use of a composition according to the invention for mattifying the skin and/or attenuating the sheen and/or glare of facial and/or bodily skin.

STARCH

The size of the starch particles may range from 1 to 100 microns, preferably from 2 to 50 microns and more particularly from 5 to 30 microns.

The starches that may be used in the present invention are, for example, corn starch, potato starch, tapioca starch, rice starch, wheat starch and cassava starch.

A modified starch is a starch that is been modified via processes known to those skilled in the art, for instance esterification, etherification, oxidation, acidic hydrolysis, crosslinking or enzymatic conversion.

Non-limiting examples of modified starches include aluminium starch octenylsuccinate, sodium starch octenylsuccinate, calcium starch octenylsuccinate, distarch phosphate, hydroxyethyl starch phosphate, hydroxypropyl starch phosphate, sodium carboxymethyl starch and sodium starch glycolate.

In one preferred embodiment, starch that is suitable for use in the invention is a modified or unmodified starch and is chosen from a corn starch, a potato starch, a tapioca starch, a rice starch, a wheat starch, a cassava starch, aluminium starch octenylsuccinate, sodium starch octenylsuccinate, calcium starch octenylsuccinate, distarch phosphate, hydroxyethyl starch phosphate, hydroxypropyl starch phosphate, sodium carboxymethyl starch and sodium starch glycolate, and mixtures thereof, and preferably corn starch.

In a particular embodiment, the starch is a starch octenylsuccinate, in particular of aluminium, the starch being corn, wheat or rice starch. Mention may be made especially of the product sold by Akzo Nobel under the name Dry Flo Plus.

In another particular embodiment, the starch that is suitable for use in the invention is in the form of starch powders crosslinked with octenylsuccinate anhydride, sold under the name Dry-Flo by the company National Starch.

According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the starches are especially chosen from powders of unmodified starch such as corn starch.

The starch that is suitable for use in the invention is present in an amount of at least 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition and preferably at least 13%) by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. EMULSIFYING POLYMERS

For the purposes of the invention, the term "emulsifying polymer" is intended to denote a polymer having amphiphilic properties, i.e. having at least one hydrophilic part and at least one hydrophobic part. Hydrophilic groups and hydrophobic groups are well known to those skilled in the art.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "polymer" is intended to denote a compound comprising at least two repeating units and in particular at least five repeating units.

An emulsifying polymer may especially be a polymer derived from acrylic acid and/or at least one amphiphilic polymer comprising at least one 2- acrylamidomethylpropanesulfonic acid (AMPS) unit.

Acrylic acid-based polymers (of Pemulen and Carbopol type)

The emulsifying polymer(s) according to the invention may be chosen from acrylic acid derivatives. These polymers comprise:

- from 80 mol% to 99 mol% of acrylic acid (AA) units of formula (5) below:

— CF£, CH

0=C (5)

o x⁺ in which X⁺ is a proton, an alkali metal cation, an alkaline-earth metal cation or the ammonium ion; and

- from 1 mol% to 20 mol% and preferably from 1 mol% to 15 mol% of units of formula (6) below:

R

in which Ri denotes a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched Ci-Ce alkyl radical (preferably methyl), A denotes an ester or amide group or an oxygen atom and R4 denotes a linear or branched alkyl comprising m carbon atoms with m ranging from 6 to 30 and preferably from 10 to 25.

As acrylic acid-derived amphiphilic polymers that are preferred according to the present invention, mention may be made of:

- the non-crosslinked copolymer obtained from (meth)acrylic acid and steareth-20 methacrylate, sold under the name Aculyn 22^® by the company Rohm & Haas,

- the non-crosslinked copolymer obtained from (meth)acrylic acid and laureth-25 methacrylate, sold under the name Aculyn 25^® by the company Rohm & Haas,

- the non-crosslinked copolymer obtained from (meth)acrylic acid and beheneth- 25 methacrylate, sold under the name Aculyn 28^® by the company Rohm & Haas,

- the crosslinked copolymer obtained from (meth)acrylic acid and vinyl neodecanoate, sold under the name Aculyn 38^® by the company Rohm & Haas,

- the crosslinked copolymer obtained from (meth)acrylic acid and steareth-20 methacrylate, sold under the name Aculyn 88^® by the company Rohm & Haas,

- crosslinked copolymers of C10-C30 alkyl acrylate and of (meth)acrylic acid, for instance Pemulen TR1^® and TR2^® sold by the company Lubrizol,

- the crosslinked copolymer of acrylic acid and of vinyl isodecanoate, sold under the name Stabylen 30^® by the company 3 V,

- crosslinked copolymers obtained from (meth)acrylic acid and from a C10-C30 alkyl acrylate, sold under the name Carbopol ETD 2020^® and Carbopol 1382^® by the company Lubrizol,

- the non-crosslinked copolymer obtained from (meth)acrylic acid and steareth-20 itaconate, sold under the name Structure 2001^® by the company National Starch,

- the non-crosslinked copolymer obtained from (meth)acrylic acid and ceteth-20 itaconate, sold under the name Structure 3001^® by the company National Starch,

- the non-crosslinked copolymer obtained from (meth)acrylic acid, aminoacrylate and C10-C30 alkyl PEG 20 itaconate, sold under the name Structure Plus^® by the company National Starch,

- the non-crosslinked copolymer obtained from (meth)acrylic acid, methyl acrylate and ethoxylated alcohol dimethyl meta-isopropenyl benzyl isocyanate, sold under the name Viscophobe DB 1000^® by the company Amerchol. The acrylic acid-based polymer is in particular a non-crosslinked copolymer obtained from (meth)acrylic acid, methyl acrylate and ethoxylated alcohol dimethyl meta- isopropenyl benzyl isocyanate.

Preferably, the said emulsifying polymer is chosen from acrylic acid-based polymers, and in particular crosslinked copolymers of C10-C30 alkyl acrylate and of (meth) acrylic acid, for instance Pemulen TR1^® and TR2^® sold by the company Noveon.

Amphiphilic polymers comprising at least one 2- acrylamidomethylpropanesulfonic acid (AMPS) unit

The amphiphilic polymers comprising at least one 2- acrylamidomethylpropanesulfonic acid (AMPS) unit that may be used in the present invention, which are also known more simply as "amphiphilic AMPS polymers^'" hereinbelow, comprise both a hydrophilic part and a hydrophobic part comprising at least one fatty chain.

The fatty chain present in the said amphiphilic AMPS polymers according to the invention may preferably comprise from 7 to 30 carbon atoms and more preferentially from 7 to 22 carbon atoms.

The amphiphilic AMPS polymers according to the invention are especially chosen from amphiphilic polymers of at least one acrylamidomethylpropanesulfonic acid (AMPS) monomer and of at least one ethylenically unsaturated comonomer comprising at least one hydrophobic part containing from 7 to 30 carbon atoms and in particular from 7 to 22 carbon atoms or even from 12 to 22 carbon atoms.

The amphiphilic AMPS polymers according to the invention generally have a weight- average molecular weight ranging from 50 000 to 10 000 000 g/mol, in particular from 100 000 to 8 000 000 g/mol and even more particularly from 100 000 to 7 000 000 g/mol.

They may be crosslinked or non-crosslinked.

When the amphiphilic AMPS polymers according to the invention are crosslinked, the crosslinking agents may be chosen from the polyolefinically unsaturated compounds commonly used for the crosslinking of polymers obtained by free-radical polymerization.

Examples of crosslinking agents that may be mentioned include divinylbenzene, diallyl ether, dipropylene glycol diallyl ether, polyglycol diallyl ethers, triethylene glycol divinyl ether, hydroquinone diallyl ether, ethylene glycol di(meth)acrylate, tetraethylene glycol di(meth)acrylate, trimethylolpropane triacrylate, methylenebis(acrylamide), methylenebis(methacrylamide), triallylamine, triallyl cyanurate, diallyl maleate, tetraallylethylenediamine, tetraallyloxyethane, trimethylolpropane diallyl ether, allyl (meth)acrylate, allylic ethers of alcohols of the sugar series, or other allylic or vinyl ethers of polyfunctional alcohols, and also allylic esters of phosphoric and/or vinylphosphonic acid derivatives, or mixtures of these compounds.

The crosslinking agents may be chosen especially from methylenebis(acrylamide), allyl methacrylate and trimethylolpropane triacrylate (TMPTA).

The degree of crosslinking may range, for example, from 0.01 mol% to 10 mol% and preferably from 0.2 mol% to 2 mol% relative to the polymer.

The amphiphilic AMPS polymers according to the invention may be chosen especially from random amphiphilic AMPS polymers modified by reaction with a C6-C22 n- monoalkylamine or di-n-alkylamine, such as those described in patent application WO00/31154.

An amphiphilic polymer that is suitable for use in the invention may comprise at least one ethylenically unsaturated hydrophilic monomer chosen, for example, from acrylic acid, methacrylic acid or substituted alkyl derivatives thereof or esters thereof obtained with monoalkylene or polyalkylene glycols, acrylamide, methacrylamide, vinylpyrrolidone, vinylformamide, maleic anhydride, itaconic acid or maleic acid, or mixtures thereof.

An amphiphilic polymer according to the invention may comprise at least one ethylenically unsaturated hydrophobic comonomer.

An amphiphilic polymer that is suitable for use in the invention may comprise at least one hydrophobic part chosen from saturated or unsaturated linear alkyl radicals, for instance n-octyl, n-decyl, n-hexadecyl, n-dodecyl and oleyl, branched alkyl radicals, for instance isostearyl, or cyclic alkyl radicals, for instance cyclododecane or adamantane.

An amphiphilic AMPS polymer may also contain at least one ethylenically unsaturated hydrophobic comonomer comprising, for example:

- a fluoro or C7-C18 fluoroalkyl radical (for example the group of formula -(CH₂)2-

(CF₂)₉-CF₃),

- a cholesteryl radical or a cholesterol-based radical (for example cholesteryl hexanoate),

- a poly cyclic aromatic group, for instance naphthalene or pyrene,

- a silicone, alkylsilicone or alkylfluorosilicone radical.

These copolymers are especially described in document EP-A-750 899, patent US- A-5 089 578 and in the following publications by Yotaro Morishima:

- Self-assembling amphiphilic polyelectrolytes and their nanostructures, Chinese Journal of Polymer Science, Vol. 18, No. 40, (2000), 323-336; - Micelle formation of random copolymers of sodium 2-(acrylamido)-2- methylpropanesulfonate and a nonionic surfactant macromonomer in water as studied by fluorescence and dynamic light scattering, Macromolecules, 2000, Vol. 33, No. 10 - 3694- 3704;

- Solution properties of micelle networks formed by nonionic moieties covalently bound to a polyelectrolyte: salt effects on rheological behavior - Langmuir, 2000, Vol. 16, No. 12, 5324-5332;

- Stimuli responsive amphiphilic copolymers of sodium 2-(acrylamido)-2- methylpropanesulfonate and associative macromonomers, Polym. Preprint, Div. Polym. Chem. 1999, 40(2), 220-221.

They are also described in documents EP 1 069 142, WO 02/44224, WO

02/44225, WO 02/44227, WO 02/44229, WO 02/44230, WO 02/44231, WO 02/44267, WO

02/44268, WO 02/44269, WO 02/44270, WO 02/44271, WO 02/43677, WO 02/43686, WO

02/43687, WO 02/43688 and WO 02/43689, in the name of Clariant.

An ethylenically unsaturated hydrophobic comonomer of the invention may preferably be chosen from the acrylates or acrylamides of formula (1) below:

— C— C— 0= C

^{Y Rb} (i )

in which:

- R^a denotes a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched C_\-Ce alkyl radical, preferably methyl;

- Y denotes O or NH;

- R^b denotes a hydrophobic radical comprising a fatty chain containing from 7 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 7 to 22 and more particularly from 12 to 22 carbon atoms.

The hydrophobic radical R^b is chosen from saturated or unsaturated linear C7-C22 alkyl radicals (for example n-octyl, n-decyl, n-hexadecyl, n-dodecyl or oleyl), branched alkyl radicals (for example isostearic) or cyclic alkyl radicals (for example cyclododecane or adamantane); C7-C18 alkylperfluoro radicals (for example the group of formula (CH₂)2-(CF₂)9- CF₃); the cholesteryl radical or a cholesterol ester, for instance cholesteryl hexanoate; aromatic poly cyclic groups, for instance naphthalene or pyrene. Among these radicals, linear and branched alkyl radicals are more particularly preferred.

According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the hydrophobic radical R^b may also comprise at least one alkylene oxide unit and preferably a polyoxyalkylene chain.

The polyoxyalkylene chain may preferentially consist of ethylene oxide units and/or propylene oxide units and even more particularly consist solely of ethylene oxide units.

The number of moles of oxyalkylene units may generally range from 1 to 30 mol, more preferentially from 1 to 25 mol and even more preferentially from 3 to 20 mol.

Among these polymers, mention may be made of:

- copolymers, which may or may not be crosslinked and which may or may not be neutralized, comprising from 15% to 60% by weight of AMPS units and from 40% to 85% by weight of (C8-Ci₆)alkyl(meth)acrylamide units or of

(meth)acrylate units, relative to the polymer, such as those described in patent application EP-A-750 899;

- terpolymers comprising from 10 mol% to 90 mol% of acrylamide units, from 0.1 mol% to 10 mol% of AMPS units and from 5 mol% to 80 mol% of n-(C₆-

Ci₈)alkylacrylamide units relative to the polymer, such as those described in document US-A-5 089 578;

- non-crosslinked copolymers of partially or completely neutralized AMPS and of n-dodecyl methacrylate, n-hexadecyl methacrylate or n-octadecyl methacrylate, such as those described in the Morishima articles mentioned above;

- crosslinked or non-crosslinked copolymers of partially or completely neutralized AMPS and of n-dodecylmethacrylamide, such as those described in the Morishima articles mentioned above.

Amphiphilic AMPS polymers that may also be mentioned include copolymers of totally neutralized AMPS and of n-dodecyl, n-hexadecyl and/or n-octadecyl methacrylate, and also non-crosslinked and crosslinked copolymers of AMPS and of n-dodecylmethacrylamide.

Mention will be made more particularly of crosslinked or non-crosslinked amphiphilic AMPS copolymers consisting of:

(a) 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid (AMPS) units of formula (2) below: -C ^■CH^" o CH.

NH - -CH,S0₃ X in which X is a proton, an alkali metal cation, an alkaline-earth metal cation or the ammonium ion;

(b) and units of formula (3) below:

a

R

— C— C— 0= C

0-(CH₂CH₂0)n-(CH₂CH(CH₃)0)p-R^C

(3)

in which n and p, independently of each other, denote a number of moles and range from 0 to 30, preferably from 1 to 25 and more preferentially from 3 to 20, with the proviso that n + p is less than or equal to 30, preferably less than 25 and better still less than 20; R^a denotes a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched Ci-Ce alkyl radical, preferably methyl, and R^c denotes a linear or branched alkyl containing from 7 to 22 carbon atoms and preferably from 12 to 22 carbon atoms.

In formula (2), the cation X more particularly denotes sodium or ammonium.

Among the monomers of formula (3) that may be mentioned are:

- esters of (meth)acrylic acid and of a Cio-Cig fatty alcohol polyoxyethylenated with 8 OE, for instance the product Genapol C-080^® sold by the company Clariant,

- esters of (meth)acrylic acid and of a Cn fatty oxo alcohol polyoxyethylenated with 8 OE, for instance the product Genapol UD-080^® sold by the company Clariant,

- esters of (meth)acrylic acid and of a Cn- u fatty alcohol polyoxyethylenated with 7 OE, for instance the product Genapol LA-070^® sold by the company Clariant,

- esters of (meth)acrylic acid and of a Cn- u fatty alcohol polyoxyethylenated with 11 OE, for instance the product Genapol LA-110^® sold by the company Clariant,

- esters of (meth)acrylic acid and of a C^-C^ fatty alcohol polyoxyethylenated with 8 OE, for instance the product Genapol T-080^® sold by the company Clariant, - esters of (meth)acrylic acid and of a C^-C^ fatty alcohol polyoxyethylenated with 15 OE, for instance the product Genapol T-150^® sold by the company Clariant,

- esters of (meth)acrylic acid and of a C^-C^ fatty alcohol polyoxyethylenated with 11 OE, for instance the product Genapol T-l 10^® sold by the company Clariant,

- esters of (meth)acrylic acid and of a C^-C^ fatty alcohol polyoxyethylenated with 20 OE, for instance the product Genapol T-200^® sold by the company Clariant,

- esters of (meth)acrylic acid and of a C^-C^ fatty alcohol polyoxyethylenated with 25 OE, for instance the product Genapol T-250^® sold by the company Clariant,

- esters of (meth)acrylic acid and of a C18-C22 fatty alcohol polyoxyethylenated with 25 OE and/or of a C^-C^ fatty isoalcohol polyoxyethylenated with 25 OE.

The products that will be chosen more particularly are:

i. the non-crosslinked products for which p = 0, n = 7 or 25, R^a denotes a methyl and R^c represents a mixture of C12-C14 or C^-C^ alkyl,

ii. the crosslinked products for which p = 0, n = 8 or 25, R^a denotes a methyl and R^c represents a mixture of C^-C^ alkyl.

These polymers are described and synthesized in patent application EP 1 069 142.

These particular amphiphilic AMPS polymers may be obtained according to the standard free-radical polymerization processes in the presence of one or more initiators, for instance azobisisobutyronitrile (AIBN), azobisdimethylvaleronitrile, 2,2-azobis[2- amidinopropane] hydrochloride (ABAH = 2,2-Azo-Bis-[2-Amidinopropane] Hydrochloride), organic peroxides such as dilauryl peroxide, benzoyl peroxide or tert-butyl hydroperoxide, mineral peroxide compounds such as potassium persulfate or ammonium persulfate, or H2O2 optionally in the presence of reducing agents.

These amphiphilic AMPS polymers may be obtained especially by free-radical polymerization in tert-butanol medium, in which they precipitate. By using precipitation polymerization in tert-butanol, it is possible to obtain a size distribution of the polymer particles that is particularly favourable for its uses.

The reaction may be performed at a temperature of between 0 and 150°C and preferably between 10 and 100°C, either at atmospheric pressure or under reduced pressure.

It may also be performed under inert atmosphere, and preferably under nitrogen.

The amphiphilic AMPS polymers according to the invention may preferably be partially or totally neutralized with a mineral base such as sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, aqueous ammonia or an organic base such as monoethanolamine, diethanol amine, triethanolamine, an aminomethylpropanediol, N-methylglucamine, basic amino acids, for instance arginine and lysine, and mixtures of these compounds. They may especially be totally or almost totally neutralized, i.e. at least 80% neutralized.

The molar percentage concentration of the units of formula (2) and of the units of formula (3) in the amphiphilic AMPS polymers according to the invention may vary as a function of the desired cosmetic application, for example the nature of the emulsion (oil-in- water or water-in-oil emulsion) and the rheological properties of the desired formulation. It may range, for example, between 0.1 mol% and 99.9 mol%.

The sparingly hydrophobic amphiphilic AMPS polymers according to the invention will be more suitable for thickening and/or stabilizing oil-in-water emulsions.

The molar proportion of units of formula (3) may then preferably range from 0.1 mol% to 50 mol%, more particularly from 1 mol% to 25 mol% and even more particularly from 3 mol% to 10 mol%.

The more hydrophobic amphiphilic AMPS polymers according to the invention will be more suitable for thickening and/or stabilizing water-in-oil emulsions.

The molar proportion of units of formula (3) may then preferably range from 50.1 mol% to 99.9 mol%, more particularly from 60 mol% to 95 mol% and even more particularly from 65 mol% to 90 mol%.

The distribution of the monomers in the amphiphilic AMPS polymers according to the invention may be, for example, alternate, block (including multiblock) or random.

As a guide, and without this being limiting, mention may be made especially of the copolymer of AMPS and of ethoxylated Cn- u alcohol methacrylate (non-crosslinked copolymer obtained from Genapol LA-070 and from AMPS) (CTFA name: Ammonium

Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Laureth-7 methacrylate copolymer) sold under the name Aristoflex

LNC® by the company Clariant, the copolymer of AMPS and of ethoxylated (25 EO) stearyl methacrylate (copolymer crosslinked with trimethylolpropane triacrylate, obtained from

Genapol T-250 and from AMPS) (CTFA name: Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Steareth-

25 Methacrylate Crosspolymer) sold under the name Aristoflex HMS® by the company

Clariant, Aristoflex SNC (80/20 copolymer of AMPS/ethoxylated (8 mol EO) Ci₆-Ci₈ alcohol methacrylate; CTFA name: Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Steareth-8 methacrylate copolymer) and Aristoflex HMB® (copolymer of AMPS/ethoxylated (25 EO) behenyl methacrylate, crosslinked with trimethylolpropane triacrylate (TMPTA)).

The emulsifying polymer(s) that are suitable for use in the invention are generally present in the composition in an amount of from 0.01% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0.1% to 7% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition and better still 0.2% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

ETHANOL

A composition according to the invention comprises ethanol, which is a water- soluble short-chain monoalcohol.

Ethanol is present in an amount of at least 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably of at least 8% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably of at least 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, more preferably of at least 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, still more preferably of at least 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, still more preferably of at least 25% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, better still from 5% to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, from 8% to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, from 5% to 25% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and even better still from 5% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

Ethanol is included in the aqueous phase as detailed below.

ADDITIONAL FILLERS

The compositions according to the invention may comprise at least one additional filler.

The additional fillers that are suitable for use in the invention are used essentially to obtain a matt effect. They are usually chosen as a function of their noteworthy oil-absorbing properties and/or their efficient capacity for scattering light.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "filler" denotes any material consisting of spherical or non-spherical, porous or non-porous particles, which are insoluble in the compositions according to the invention.

Such additional fillers may be a mineral powder or an organic powder. The particle(s) of one or more mineral compounds used in the cosmetic composition may have different shapes, for example sphere-shaped, full or hollow, glitter, needles or platelets and preferably they are approximately spherical.

More specifically, the additional fillers that are suitable for use in the invention may be chosen from:

- silica powders, - polyamide (Nylon®) powders,

- powders of acrylic polymers, especially of polymethyl methacrylate, poly(methyl methacrylate/ethylene glycol dimethacrylate), poly(allyl methacrylate/ethylene glycol dimethacrylate), ethylene glycol dimethacrylate/lauryl methacrylate copolymer,

- silicone elastomer powders, obtained especially by polymerization of organopolysiloxane containing at least two hydrogen atoms each bonded to a silicon atom and of an organopolysiloxane comprising at least two ethylenically unsaturated groups (especially two vinyl groups) in the presence of a platinum catalyst,

- talc,

- boron nitride,

- clays,

- perlites,

- aerogel particles, and

- mixtures thereof.

Preferably, the additional filler is chosen among perlite, aerogel, talc and mixtures thereof, more preferably among perlite, aerogel, and mixtures thereof, and still more preferably among perlite, silica aerogel, and mixtures thereof.

Preferably, when the cosmetic composition according to the present invention comprises, in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least 10% by weight of starch relative to the total weight of the composition, at least one emulsifying polymer, ethanol in an amount of from 5% to 30% by weight of relative to the total weight of the composition at least one additional filler chosen from aerogel, perlite, and mixtures thereof, this composition may further comprise at least one other additional filler which is different from the one(s) which is(are) already contained in the composition. This further additional filler is preferably talc.

The additional filler may be a powder coated with a hydrophobic treatment agent.

The hydrophobic treatment agent may be chosen from fatty acids, for instance stearic acid; metal soaps, for instance aluminium dimyristate, the aluminium salt of hydrogenated tallow glutamate; amino acids; N-acylamino acids or salts thereof; lecithin, isopropyl triisostearyl titanate, mineral waxes, and mixtures thereof.

The N-acylamino acids may comprise an acyl group containing from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, for instance a 2-ethylhexanoyl, caproyl, lauroyl, myristoyl, palmitoyl, stearoyl or cocoyl group. The salts of these compounds may be the aluminium, magnesium, calcium, zirconium, zinc, sodium or potassium salts. The amino acid may be, for example, lysine, glutamic acid or alanine.

As non-limiting illustrations of additional fillers that are suitable for use in the invention, mention may be made most particularly of the fillers below.

The silicas that can be used may be natural and untreated. Mention may thus be made of the silicas sold under the names Sillitin N85®, Sillitin N87®, Sillitin N82®, Sillitin V85® and Sillitin V88® by the company Hoffmann Mineral.

They may be fumed silicas.

The fumed silicas may be obtained by high-temperature hydrolysis of a volatile silicon compound in an oxyhydrogen flame, producing a finely divided silica. This process makes it possible especially to obtain hydrophilic silicas bearing a large number of silanol groups at their surface. It is possible to chemically modify the surface of the said silica via a chemical reaction which brings about a reduction in the number of silanol groups. It is possible in particular to replace silanol groups with hydrophobic groups: a hydrophobic silica is then obtained.

The hydrophobic groups may be:

(a) trimethylsiloxyl groups, which are obtained especially by treating fumed silica in the presence of hexamethyldisilazane. Silicas thus treated are known as "Silica silylate" according to the CTFA (6th Edition, 1995);

(b) dimethylsilyloxyl or polydimethylsiloxane groups, which are obtained in particular by treating fumed silica in the presence of polydimethylsiloxane or dimethyldichlorosilane. Silicas thus treated are known as "Silica dimethyl silylate" according to the CTFA (6th Edition, 1995). Silica powders that may be mentioned more particularly include:

- the porous silica microspheres sold under the name Silica Beads® SB-700 by the company Miyoshi; Sunsphere® H51 and Sunsphere® H33 by the company Asahi Glass;

- the polydimethylsiloxane-coated amorphous silica microspheres sold under the names SA Sunsphere® H33 and SA Sunsphere® H53 by the company Asahi Glass;

- precipitated silica microspheres, for example coated with mineral wax such as polyethylene, and sold especially under the name Acematt® OK 412 by the company Evonik Degussa. A Nylon powder that may be mentioned is the Nylon powder sold under the name Orgasol® 4000 by the company Atochem.

Acrylic polymer powders that may be mentioned include:

- polymethyl methacrylate powders sold under the name Covabead® LH85 by the company Wackherr;

- the polymethyl methacrylate/ethylene glycol dimethacrylate powders sold under the name Dow Corning 5640 Microsponge® Skin Oil Adsorber by the company Dow Corning and Ganzpearl® GMP-0820 by the company Ganz Chemical;

- polyallyl methacrylate/ethylene glycol dimethacrylate powders sold under the names Polypore® L200 and Polypore® E200 by the company Amcol Health and Beauty Solutions Inc.;

- the ethylene glycol dimethacrylate/lauryl methacrylate copolymer powders, sold under the name Polytrap® 6603 by the company Dow Corning.

The silicone elastomers are especially partially or totally crosslinked elastomeric organopolysiloxanes, of three-dimensional structure, such as those sold under the names KSG6^®, KSG16^® and KSG18^® by the company Shin-Etsu, Trefil E-505C^® and Trefil E-506C^® by the company Dow Corning, Gransil SR-CYC^®, SR DMF 10^®, SR-DC556^®, SR 5 CYC Gel^®, SR DMF 10 Gel^® and SR DC 556 Gel^® by the company Grant Industries, and SF 1204^® and JK 113^® by the company General Electric.

Silicone elastomer powders that may be mentioned include the powders sold under the names Trefil® Powder E-505C and Trefil® Powder E-506C by the company Dow Corning.

Silicone powders that may be mentioned include crosslinked polydimethylsiloxane gum beads coated with silsesquioxane resin, sold especially under the name KSP100 by Shin- Etsu, and powders of ovoid silicone resins especially such as the product sold under the name NLK-602 by Takemoto.

Boron nitride particles may be mentioned, such as PUHP1030L by Saint Gobain Ceramics, UHP-1010 by Carborundum, Ronaflair Extender by Merck, Covalumine Atlas White AS by Sensient, Boroneige 601 by ESK, PUHP3008 by Saint Gobain Ceramics. Perlite is a natural glass of volcanic origin, of glossy black or light-grey colour, resulting from the rapid cooling of lava, and which is in the form of small particles resembling pearls when it is heated beyond 800°C.

The perlite particles used according to the invention are especially commercially available from the company World Minerals Europe under the trade name Perlite P1430, Perlite P2550 or Perlite P2040. These particles are sold as mattifying agents for paints. They are in the form of a white powder with a crystalline silica content of less than 0.1% by weight.

Preferably, the perlite particles according to the invention have a particle size distribution such that at least 50% of the particles are less than 25 μηι in size and preferably less than 20 μηι in size. In addition, they preferentially have a particle size distribution such that 90% by weight of the particles are less than 55 μηι in size and preferably less than 40 μηι in size. It is moreover preferred for 90% by weight of the particles to be greater than 5 μηι in size.

Its ultra-absorbent power or blotting-paper effect also makes it an ideal component especially for cosmetic products, creams, gels and deodorants.

When it is present in the composition of the invention, perlite may be in an amount ranging from 0.01% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 5% by weight and better still from 0.2% to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

Clays are products that are already well known per se, which are described, for example, in the publication Mineralogie des argiles [Mineralogy of clays], S. Caillere, S. Henin, M. Rautureau, 2nd Edition, 1982, Masson, the teaching of which is included herein by way of reference.

Clays are silicates containing a cation that may be chosen from calcium, magnesium, aluminium, sodium, potassium and lithium cations, and mixtures thereof.

Examples of such products that may be mentioned include clays of the smectite family such as montmorillonites, hectorites, bentonites, beidellites and saponites, and also of the family of vermiculites, stevensite and chlorites.

The clays may be of natural or synthetic origin. Preferably, clays that are cosmetically compatible and acceptable with keratin fibres such as the hair are used.

The clay may be chosen from montmorillonite, bentonite, hectorite, attapulgite and sepiolite, and mixtures thereof. Preferably, the clay is a bentonite or a hectorite.

The clays may be chosen from organophilic clays. Organophilic clays are clays modified with a chemical compound chosen from quaternary amines, tertiary amines, amine acetates, imidazolines, amine soaps, fatty sulfates, alkyl aryl sulfonates and amine oxides, and mixtures thereof.

Preferably, the organophilic clays according to the invention are clays modified with a chemical compound chosen from quaternary amines.

Organophilic clays that may be mentioned include quaternium-18 bentonites such as those sold under the names Bentone® 3, Bentone® 38 and Bentone® 38V by the company Elementis, Tixogel® VP by the company United Catalyst, and Claytone® 34, Claytone® 40 and Claytone® XL by the company Southern Clay; stearalkonium bentonites such as those sold under the names Bentone® 27V by the company Elementis, Tixogel® LG by the company United Catalyst, and Claytone® AF and Claytone® APA by the company Southern Clay and quaternium-18/benzalkonium bentonites such as those sold under the names Claytone® HT and Claytone® PS by the company Southern Clay.

The organophilic clay is in particular chosen from modified hectorites such as hectorite modified with a Cw-Cn fatty acid ammonium chloride, especially distearyldimethylammonium chloride and stearylbenzyldimethylammonium chloride.

The clays are especially chosen from montmorillonites and kaolin.

Preferably, the particles have a number-average size of between 50 nm and 350 microns, better still between 100 nm and 100 microns and even more preferentially between 0.5 and 100 microns.

Aerogels are ultra-light porous materials. The first aerogels were made by Kristler in 1932. They are generally synthesized via a sol-gel process in a liquid medium and then dried, usually by extraction with a supercritical fluid, the one most commonly used being supercritical CO₂. This type of drying makes it possible to avoid shrinkage of the pores and of the material. Other types of drying also make it possible to obtain porous materials from gel, namely cryodesiccation, which consists in solidifying the gel at low temperature and then in subliming the solvent, and drying by evaporation. The materials thus obtained are then known, respectively, as cryogels and xerogels. The sol-gel process and the various drying operations are described in detail in Brinker CI, and Scherer G.W., Sol-Gel Science, New York: Academic Press, 1990.

The aerogel particles in accordance with the present invention are hydrophobic aerogel particles. The term "hydrophobic aerogel particle" means any particle of the aerogel type having a water absorption capacity at the wet point of less than 0.1 ml/g, i.e. less than 10 g of water per 100 g of particle.

The wet point corresponds to the amount of water which has to be added to 1 g of particle in order to obtain a homogeneous paste. This method is derived directly from the method for determining the oil uptake of a powder as described in standard NF T 30-022. The measurements are taken in the same manner by means of the wet point and the flow point, which have, respectively, the following definitions:

wet point: weight expressed in grams per 100 g of product corresponding to the production of a homogeneous paste during the addition of a solvent to a powder.

The wet point is measured according to the following protocol:

Equipment used:

Glass plate (25 x 25 mm)

Spatula (wooden shaft and metal part, 15 x 2.7 mm)

Silk-bristled brush

Balance

The glass plate is placed on the balance and 1 g of aerogel is weighed out. The beaker containing the solvent and the liquid sampling pipette is placed on the balance. The solvent is gradually added to the powder, the whole being regularly blended (every 3 to 4 drops) with the spatula. The mass of solvent required to reach the wet point is noted. The average of three tests will be determined.

The hydrophobic aerogels used according to the present invention may be organic, mineral or hybrid organic-mineral.

The organic aerogels may be based on resins from among the following: polyurethanes, resorcinol-formaldehyde, polyfurfuranol, cresol-formaldehyde, phenol- furfuranol, polybutadiene, melamine-formaldehyde, phenyl-furfural, polyimides, polyacrylates, polymethacrylates, polyolefins, polystyrenes, polyacrylonitriles, phenol-formaldehyde, polyvinyl alcohol, dialdehydes, polycyanurates, epoxies, celluloses, cellulose derivatives, chitosan, agar, agarose, alginate, starches, and mixtures thereof.

Aerogels based on organic-mineral hybrids, for example silica-PMMA, silica- chitosan and silica-poly ether, are also envisaged. Patent applications US 2005/0192366 and WO 2007/126410 describe such organic-mineral hybrid materials.

The hydrophobic aerogel particles used in the present invention have a specific surface area per unit of mass (S_M) ranging from 200 to 1500 m²/g, preferably from 600 to 1200 m²/g and better still from 600 to 800 m²/g, and a size, expressed as volume-mean diameter (D[0.5]), of less than 1500 μηι and preferably ranging from 1 to 30 μηι, preferably from 5 to 25 μπι, better still from 5 to 20 μηι and even better still from 5 to 15 μπι.

The specific surface area per unit of mass may be determined by the nitrogen absorption method, known as the BET (Brunauer-Emmett-Teller) method, described in the Journal of the American Chemical Society, Vol. 60, page 309, February 1938, which corresponds to international standard ISO 5794/1 (appendix D). The BET specific surface area corresponds to the total specific surface area of the particles under consideration. The sizes of the aerogel particles according to the invention may be measured by static light scattering using a commercial particle size analyser such as the MasterSizer 2000 machine from Malvern. The data are processed on the basis of the Mie scattering theory. This theory, which is exact for isotropic particles, makes it possible to determine, in the case of non- spherical particles, an "effective" particle diameter. This theory is in particular described in the publication by Van de Hulst, H.C., Light Scattering by Small Particles, Chapters 9 and 10, Wiley, New York, 1957.

According to an advantageous embodiment, the hydrophobic aerogel particles used in the present invention have a specific surface area per unit of mass (S_M) ranging from 600 to 800 m²/g and a size, expressed as volume-mean diameter (D[0.5]), ranging from 5 to 20 μπι and better still from 5 to 15 μπι.

The hydrophobic aerogel particles used in the present invention may advantageously have a tapped density p ranging from 0.02 g/cm³ to 0.10 g/cm³ and preferably from 0.02 g/cm³ to 0.08 g/cm³.

In the context of the present invention, this density may be assessed according to the following protocol, known as the tapped density protocol:

40 g of powder are poured into a measuring cylinder; the measuring cylinder is then placed on the Stav 2003 machine from Stampf Volumeter; the measuring cylinder is subsequently subjected to a series of 2500 tapping actions (this operation is repeated until the difference in volume between two consecutive tests is less than 2%); and then the final volume Vf of tapped powder is measured directly on the measuring cylinder. The tapped density is determined by the ratio m/Vf, in this instance 40/Vf (Vf being expressed in cm³ and m in g).

According to one embodiment, the hydrophobic aerogel particles used in the present invention have a specific surface area per unit of volume Sy ranging from 5 to 60 m /cm , preferably from 10 to 50 m /cm and better still from 15 to 40 m /cm . The specific surface area per unit of volume is given by the relationship: Sy = SM- P where p is the tapped density expressed in g/cm³ and SM is the specific surface area per unit of mass expressed in m²/g, as defined above.

Preferably, the hydrophobic aerogel particles according to the invention have an oil-absorbing capacity, measured at the wet point, ranging from 5 to 18 ml/g, preferably from 6 to 15 ml/g and better still from 8 to 12 ml/g.

The absorption capacity measured at the wet point, denoted Wp, corresponds to the amount of water that needs to be added to 100 g of particles in order to obtain a homogeneous paste.

It is measured according to the "wet point" method or the method for determining the oil uptake of a powder described in standard NF T 30-022. It corresponds to the amount of oil adsorbed onto the available surface of the powder and/or absorbed by the powder by measurement of the wet point, described below:

An amount m = 2 g of powder is placed on a glass plate, and the oil (isononyl isononanoate) is then added dropwise. After addition of 4 to 5 drops of oil to the powder, mixing is carried out using a spatula, and addition of oil is continued until conglomerates of oil and powder have formed. From this point, the oil is added at the rate of one drop at a time and the mixture is subsequently triturated with the spatula. The addition of oil is stopped when a firm, smooth paste is obtained. This paste must be able to be spread on the glass plate without cracking or forming lumps. The volume Vs (expressed in ml) of oil used is then noted.

The oil uptake corresponds to the ratio Vs/m.

According to a particular embodiment, the aerogel particles used are mineral and are more particularly hydrophobic silica aerogel particles having the properties stated previously.

Silica aerogels are porous materials obtained by replacing (especially by drying) the liquid component of a silica gel with air.

They are generally synthesized via a sol-gel process in a liquid medium and then dried, usually by extraction with a supercritical fluid, the one most commonly used being supercritical CO2. This type of drying makes it possible to avoid shrinkage of the pores and of the material. The sol-gel process and the various drying operations are described in detail in Brinker C.J., and Scherer G.W., Sol-Gel Science, New York: Academic Press, 1990.

The hydrophobic silica aerogels used according to the present invention are preferably silylated silica aerogels (INCI name: silica silylate). The term "hydrophobic silica" means any silica whose surface is treated with silylating agents, for example halogenated silanes such as alkylchlorosilanes, siloxanes, in particular dimethylsiloxanes such as hexamethyldisiloxane, or silazanes, so as to functionalize the OH groups with silyl groups Si-Rn, for example trimethylsilyl groups.

As regards the preparation of hydrophobic silica aerogel particles that have been surface-modified by silylation, reference may be made to document US 7 470 725.

Use will be made in particular of aerogel particles of hydrophobic silica surface- modified with trimethylsilyl groups.

As hydrophobic silica aerogels that may be used in the invention, examples that may be mentioned include the aerogel sold under the name VM-2260® (INCI name: Silica silylate), by the company Dow Corning, the particles of which have a mean size of about 1000 microns and a specific surface area per unit of mass ranging from 600 to 800 m²/g.

Mention may also be made of the aerogels sold by the company Cabot under the references Aerogel® TLD 201, Aerogel® OGD 201 and Aerogel® TLD 203, Enova® Aerogel MT 1100 and Enova® Aerogel MT 1200.

Use will more particularly be made of the aerogel sold under the name VM-2270® (INCI name: Silica silylate) by the company Dow Corning, the particles of which have a mean size ranging from 5 to 15 microns and a specific surface area per unit of mass ranging from 600 to 800 m²/g.

Use will also be made of the aerogel sold under the name Enova® Aerogel MT 1100 (INCI name: Silica silylate) by the company Cabot, the particles of which have a mean size ranging from 2 to 25 microns and a specific surface area per unit of mass ranging from 600 to 800 m²/g.

When they are present, the hydrophobic aerogel particles represent from 0.1% to 10% by weight and preferably from 0.2% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. According to a preferred embodiment, the additional filler that is suitable for use in the invention is chosen from aerogel, talc, perlite, and mixtures thereof.

According to a more preferred embodiment, the additional filler that is suitable for use in the invention is chosen from aerogel, perlite, and mixtures thereof. According to a still more preferred embodiment, the additional filler that is suitable for use in the invention is chosen from silica aerogel, perlite, and mixtures thereof.

In general, the additional fillers that are suitable for use in the invention may be present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.01% to 30% by weight, preferably ranging from 0.1% to 20% by weight and most preferentially ranging from 0.5% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

GALENICAL FORM

The composition according to the invention is preferably in the form of an aqueous gel or a cream-gel.

The compositions according to the invention may also be in the form of more or less thick creams, and they may or may not flow under their own weight depending on their viscosity.

The compositions according to the invention may also be in the form of lotions, creams or fluid gels dispensed as an aerosol spray, in a pump-dispenser bottle or as a roll-on, in the form of thick creams dispensed in a tube or in a grid; in the form of wands (sticks) or in a jar, and, in this regard, may contain ingredients generally used in products of this type and well known to a person skilled in the art. Aqueous phase

The composition according to the invention may comprise an amount of aqueous phase greater than or equal to 40% by weight, in particular greater than or equal to 45%, or even 50% by weight, this amount possibly ranging, for example, from 40% to 99% by weight and preferably from 50% to 95% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

The composition according to the invention may comprise an amount of water greater than or equal to 35% by weight, in particular greater than or equal to 40%, or even 45% by weight, this amount possibly ranging, for example, from 35% to 95% by weight and preferably from 45% to 90% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

Conventionally, the aqueous phase may contain, besides water, one or more water- soluble solvents chosen from polyols (or polyhydric alcohols) and water-soluble lower alcohol(s), and mixtures thereof.

The term "lower alcohol" means an alcohol comprising from 1 to 8 carbon atoms. Examples of polyols that may be mentioned include glycerol; glycols such as pentylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, isoprene glycol, and polyethylene glycols such as PEG-8; sorbitol; sugars such as glucose, fructose, maltose, lactose and sucrose; and mixtures thereof.

Examples of lower alcohols that may be mentioned include ethanol, as mentioned previously, isopropanol and butanol, and mixtures thereof.

When they are present in the composition of the invention, the solvent(s) may be in an amount ranging from 5% to 60% by weight, preferably from 6% to 50% by weight and better still from 8% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the aqueous phase. These adjuvants and the concentrations thereof must be such that they do not modify the property desired for the composition of the invention. According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the aqueous phase contains at least one lower alcohol, which may especially be ethanol. The amount of lower alcohol such as ethanol may range, for example, from 5% to 30% by weight and preferably from 5% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. The pH of the composition is compatible with the skin and preferably ranges from 5 to 7.5 and better still from 5.5 to 7.

Fatty phase

A composition according to the invention may comprise a fatty phase (or oily phase).

The nature of the fatty phase of the emulsion is not critical. The fatty phase may thus consist of any non-waxy fatty substance conventionally used in cosmetics or dermatology; it especially comprises at least one oil, a fatty substance that is liquid at 25°C.

As oils that may be used in the composition of the invention, examples that may be mentioned include:

- hydrocarbon oils of animal origin, such as perhydrosqualene;

- hydrocarbon-based oils of plant origin, such as liquid triglycerides of fatty acids containing from 4 to 10 carbon atoms, for instance heptanoic or octanoic acid triglycerides, or alternatively, for example, sunflower oil, corn oil, soybean oil, marrow oil, grapeseed oil, sesame seed oil, hazelnut oil, apricot oil, macadamia oil, arara oil, castor oil, avocado oil, caprylic/capric acid triglycerides, for instance those sold by the company Stearineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol 810, 812 and 818 by the company Dynamit Nobel, jojoba oil and shea butter oil;

- synthetic esters and ethers, especially of fatty acids, for instance the oils of formulae R^aCOOR^b and R^aOR^b in which R^a represents a fatty acid residue containing from 8 to 29 carbon atoms and R^b represents a branched or unbranched hydrocarbon-based chain containing from 3 to 30 carbon atoms, for instance Purcellin oil, isononyl isononanoate, isopropyl myristate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-octyldodecyl stearate, 2-octyldodecyl erucate or isostearyl isostearate; hydroxylated esters, for instance isostearyl lactate, octyl hydroxystearate, octyldodecyl hydroxystearate, diisostearyl malate or triisocetyl citrate; fatty alcohol heptanoates, octanoates or decanoates; polyol esters, for instance propylene glycol dioctanoate, neopentyl glycol diheptanoate and diethylene glycol diisononanoate; and pentaerythritol esters, for instance pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate;

- substantially linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin, such as volatile or non- volatile liquid paraffins, and derivatives thereof, petroleum jelly, polydecenes, isohexadecane, isododecane or hydrogenated polyisobutene, such as Parleam® oil;

- liquid fatty alcohols containing from 8 to 26 carbon atoms, for instance octyldodecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol or oleyl alcohol;

- partially hydrocarbon-based and/or silicone-based fluoro oils, such as those described in document JP-A-2-295 912. Fluoro oils that may also be mentioned include perfluoromethylcyclopentane and perfluoro-l,3-dimethylcyclohexane, sold under the names Flutec PCI^® and Flutec PC3^® by the company BNFL Fluorochemicals; perfluoro-1,2- dimethylcyclobutane; perfluoroalkanes such as dodecafluoropentane and tetradecafluorohexane, sold under the names PF 5050^® and PF 5060^® by the company 3M, or bromoperfluorooctyl sold under the name Foralkyl^® by the company Atochem; nonafluoromethoxybutane sold under the name MSX 4518^® by the company 3M and nonafluoroethoxyisobutane; perfluoromorpholine derivatives such as 4- trifluoromethylperfluoromorpholine sold under the name PF 5052^® by the company 3M;

- silicone oils, for instance volatile or non-volatile polymethylsiloxanes (PDMS) with a substantially linear or cyclic silicone chain, which are liquid or pasty at room temperature, especially cyclopolydimethylsiloxanes (cyclomethicones) such as cyclohexadimethylsiloxane and cyclopentadimethylsiloxane; polydimethylsiloxanes comprising alkyl, alkoxy or phenyl groups, which are pendent or at the end of a silicone chain, these groups containing from 2 to 24 carbon atoms; phenylsilicones, for instance phenyl trimethi cones, phenyl dimethi cones, phenyltrimethylsiloxydiphenylsiloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, diphenylmethyldiphenyltrisiloxanes or 2-phenylethyl trimethylsiloxy silicates, and polymethylphenylsiloxanes;

- mixtures thereof. In the list of oils mentioned above, the term "hydrocarbon-based oiF means any oil mainly comprising carbon and hydrogen atoms, and possibly ester, ether, fluoro, carboxylic acid and/or alcohol groups.

When it is present in the composition of the invention, the oily phase may be in an amount of not more than 10%, preferably ranging from 0.1% to 10% by weight, more preferentially from 0.5% to 9% by weight and better still from 1% to 8% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

ADDITIVES/ACTIVE AGENTS

The composition according to the invention may also comprise any adjuvant or additive usually used in the fields under consideration and especially in cosmetics.

Among the conventional adjuvants, mention may be made especially of preserving agents; sequestrants (EDTA); antioxidants; fragrances; dyestuffs such as soluble dyes, pigments and nacres; tensioning agents; bleaching agents; exfoliants; organic or physical sunscreens; polymers; electrolytes; non-polymeric emulsifiers; thickeners and gelling agents.

The amounts of these various adjuvants are those conventionally used in the field under consideration, and are for example from 0.01% to 20% of the total weight of the composition.

As active agents that may be used in the composition of the invention, examples that may be mentioned include water-soluble or liposoluble vitamins, derivatives of these vitamins (especially esters) and mixtures thereof; antiseptics; antibacterial active agents; antiinflammatory active agents; anti-seborrhoeic active agents; keratolytic active agents; desquamating agents; antimicrobial agents; slimming agents; optical brighteners; mattifying fillers other than the abovementioned fillers; deodorant active agents such as bacteriostatic agents or other bactericides; odour absorbers; antiperspirant active agents; and any active agent that is suitable for the final purpose of the composition, and mixtures thereof.

The amount of active agents depends on the desired aim. The active agent(s) may be present, for example, in a concentration ranging from 0.001% to 20%, preferably from 0.01% to 10% by weight and better still from 0.05% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Needless to say, a person skilled in the art will take care to select the optional additive(s) of the composition according to the invention, and also the amount thereof, via routine operations, such that the advantageous properties intrinsically associated with the composition in accordance with the invention are not, or are not substantially, adversely affected by the envisaged addition.

The composition of the invention is intended for topical application.

It is also clearly understood that, depending on the active agent used in a composition according to the invention, other benefits may be brought to the consumer. Additional benefits that may especially be mentioned include a "whitening/fairness" effect, i.e. a lightening effect by means of the action of bleaching active agents such as vitamin B3 and vitamin CG, an "anti-darkening" effect with a suitable system of UV-screening agents, or the control of greasy skin via the incorporation of keratolytic active agents, for example salicylic acid.

According to one embodiment, a composition of the invention may advantageously be in the form of a foundation.

According to one embodiment, a composition of the invention may advantageously be in the form of a composition for making up the skin and especially the face. It may thus be an eyeshadow or a face powder.

According to another embodiment, a composition of the invention may advantageously be in the form of a product for the lips.

According to another preferred embodiment, a composition of the invention may advantageously be in the form of a composition for caring for bodily or facial skin, in particular facial skin.

Such compositions are especially prepared according to the general knowledge of a person skilled in the art.

Throughout the description, including the claims, the term "comprising a" should be understood as being synonymous with "comprising at least one", unless otherwise specified.

The terms "between... and... " and "ranging from... to... " should be understood as being inclusive of the limits, unless otherwise specified.

The examples that follow are presented as non-limiting illustrations of the invention. The compounds are, depending on the case, cited as the chemical names or as the CTFA names (International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook). Unless otherwise mentioned, the amounts indicated are expressed as mass percentages. Examples

Example 1 : Cream-gel

Procedure:

1. Phase I is homogenized thoroughly.

2. Phase II is dispersed in the thoroughly homogenized phase I.

3. Phase II is neutralized by adding phase III.

4. After swelling the gel, phase IV is added to the mixture obtained.

5. At room temperature, phases V, VI and VII are added to the mixture obtained. The composition obtained, which is non-pulverulent, is easy and pleasant to apply to facial and bodily skin and affords a fresh sensation on application. In addition, the composition affords a long-lasting mattifying effect combined with an antiperspirant effect.

A lightening {fairness) effect is moreover visible after 5 days of application.

Example 2: Cream-gel

Procedure:

1. Phase II is heated to 75-80°C

2. Phase I is poured gently onto phase II.

3. Phases I and II are mixed.

4. Once the emulsion has formed, phase ΙΠ is dispersed for about 1 hour.

5. Next, the mixture is neutralized with phase IV.

6. At room temperature, phases V and VI are added to the mixture obtained.

The composition obtained, which is non-pulverulent, is easy and pleasant to apply to facial and bodily skin and affords a fresh sensation on application. In addition, the composition affords a long-lasting mattifying effect combined with an antiperspirant effect and an anti-UV effect.

A lightening {fairness) effect is visible after 5 days of application.

Claims

1. Cosmetic composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least 13% by weight of starch relative to the total weight of the composition, at least one emulsifying polymer and ethanol in an amount of from 5% to 30% by weight of relative to the total weight of the composition.

2. Composition according to claim 1, comprising at least one additional filler.

3. Composition according to claim 2, in which the additional filler is chosen from aerogel, perlite, talc and mixtures thereof.

4. Cosmetic composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least 10% by weight of starch relative to the total weight of the composition, at least one emulsifying polymer, ethanol in an amount of from 5% to 30% by weight of relative to the total weight of the composition and at least one additional filler chosen from aerogel, perlite, and mixtures thereof.

5. Composition according to claim 4, in which the starch is present in an amount of at least 13% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

6. Composition according to claim 4 or claim 5, comprising further at least one additional filler.

7. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in the form of an aqueous gel or a cream-gel.

8. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the starch is modified or unmodified and is chosen from a com starch, a potato starch, a tapioca starch, a rice starch, a wheat starch, a cassava starch, aluminium starch octenylsuccinate, sodium starch octenylsuccinate, calcium starch octenylsuccinate, distarch phosphate, hydroxyethyl starch phosphate, hydroxypropyl starch phosphate, sodium carboxymethyl starch and sodium starch glycolate, and mixtures thereof, and preferably corn starch.

9. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the said emulsifying polymer is chosen from acrylic acid-based polymers, and in particular crosslinked copolymers of C10-C30 alkyl acrylate and of (meth)acrylic acid.

10. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the emulsifying polymer is present in an amount of from 0.01% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0.1% to 7% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition and better still 0.2% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

11. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which ethanol is present in an amount of at least 8% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably of at least 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, more preferably of at least 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, still more preferably of at least 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, still more preferably of at least 25% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, better still from 5% to 25% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition and better still from 5% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

12. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, also comprising an oily phase present in an amount of not more than 10% by weight, preferably ranging from 0.1% to 10% by weight, more preferentially from 0.5% to 9% by weight and better still from 1% to 8% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

13. Cosmetic use of a composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 12, for reducing and/or limiting and/or preventing the flow of sweat from facial and/or bodily skin.

14. Cosmetic use of the composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 12, for matting the skin and/or attenuating the sheen and/or glare of facial and/or bodily skin.

15. Cosmetic treatment process for caring for and/or making up facial and/or bodily skin, characterized in that a cosmetic composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 12 is applied to the skin.