WO2013124430A1

WO2013124430A1 - Composition in the form of a foam constituted of an oil-in-water emulsion comprising hydrophobic silica aerogel particles

Info

Publication number: WO2013124430A1
Application number: PCT/EP2013/053586
Authority: WO
Inventors: Claire BOUQUET; Cyril Chevalier; Thierry Cotton
Original assignee: L'oreal
Priority date: 2012-02-23
Filing date: 2013-02-22
Publication date: 2013-08-29
Also published as: FR2987260A1; FR2987260B1

Abstract

The present invention relates to a composition in the form of a foam having a density of 0.3 to 0.8, characterized in that it is in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable medium a) a continuous aqueous phase comprising at least one thickener or gelling agent for said aqueous phase; b) a fatty phase dispersed in the aqueous phase, comprising: (i) at least one fatty acid partially or totally neutralized with an organic or inorganic alkaline agent and (ii) at least hydrophobic silica aerogel particles. It also relates to a cosmetic process for caring for and/or making up human keratin fibres, in particular the skin of the body or of the face, comprising at least the application, to the surface of the keratin material, of at least one composition as previously defined.

Description

COMPOSITION IN THE FORM OF A FOAM CONSTITUTED OF AN OIL-IN- WATER EMULSION COMPRISING HYDROPHOBIC SILICA AEROGEL PARTICLES The present invention relates to a composition in the form of a foam having a density at 20°C of 0.3 to 0.8, characterized in that it is in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable medium

a) a continuous aqueous phase comprising at least one thickener or gelling agent for said aqueous phase;

b) a fatty phase dispersed in the aqueous phase, comprising:

(i) at least one fatty acid partially or totally neutralized with an organic or inorganic alkaline agent and

(ii) at least hydrophobic silica aerogel particles. The invention also relates to a cosmetic process for caring for and/or making up human keratin materials, in particular the skin of the body or of the face or the hair, comprising at least the application, to the surface of the keratin material, of at least one composition as defined above. Creativity has a predominant role in the cosmetics field. Texture is one of the factors of choice for seducing the consumer. Softness, lightness, surprising sensory effects and original feels are continuously evolving.

Nowadays, beyond the performance of cosmetic care products, cosmetic product consumers are continually searching for new sensations on the skin.

Many cosmetic product ranges currently on the market propose a wide spectrum of textures that can satisfy all types of skin on all continents; however, there is a galenic category which does not appear on the cosmetic shelves and which has a pleasurable texture: foams, a product synonymous with lightness, softness, comfort and pleasure.

Care products in the form of a foam of "shaving foam" type already exist. These technologies require specific packaging combining the use of a propellant gas and of aerosol-type packaging. The resulting foams are not very stable and could not be packaged in a jar.

Foams packaged in a jar, such as "Calendula Cream" from Laboratoires Boiron ®, exist on the market, but this product, which is intended rather for treating erythema, irritated skin, dry patches, cracks and chapping, has cosmetic properties which are not entirely satisfactory in terms of sensorial ity.

The absence of this type of galenical form on the cosmetics market can be explained by the technical difficulty in obtaining in a jar a product which is both stable over time and faultless in terms of sensoriality, in particular with respect to lightness, spreading, softness, comfort and pleasure.

Foams are generally thermodynamically unstable two- or three-phase systems in which bubbles of gas (generally air, nitrogen) are dispersed. In general, they have a low density at 20°C of generally between 0.3 and 0.8. The stability of a foam depends greatly on that of the walls which separate the bubbles: the interfaces. The emulsion, the external phase of the emulsion/air dispersion, constitutes these interfaces. They are very thin and therefore very fragile. The stability of the foam is defined by its ability to retain its structure (number of bubbles, size of the bubbles) over time.

There remains therefore the need to prepare compositions in the form of a foam with a density at 20°C ranging from 0.3 to 0.8 which can without technical difficulty be packaged in a jar and be stable over time and to temperature variations, which can be spread easily on a keratin material such as the skin and produce, on application, a feeling of softness and lightness and a non-fatty, non-tacky effect, and which can be suitable for a wide spectrum of cosmetic applications.

The applicant has discovered, surprisingly, that this objective can be achieved with a composition in the form of a foam having a density at 20°C of 0.3 to 0.8, characterized in that it is in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable medium

b) a fatty phase dispersed in the aqueous phase, comprising:

(ii) at least hydrophobic silica aerogel particles. The foams obtained with the compositions of the invention can be used in a wide range of cosmetic products for caring for and/or making up keratin materials and in particular the skin. They are furthermore stable at both low temperature and high temperature. Depending on the selection of the constituents and of their percentage in the composition, they offer a broad spectrum of foam textures ranging from a light melting foam to a rich and waxy foam which can be packaged in a jar.

This discovery forms the basis of the present invention. The present invention therefore relates to a composition in the form of a foam having a density at 20°C of 0.3 to 0.8, characterized in that it is in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable medium

b) a fatty phase dispersed in the aqueous phase, comprising:

(ii) at least hydrophobic silica aerogel particles.

The invention also relates to a cosmetic process for caring for and/or making up human keratin materials, in particular the skin of the body or of the face or the hair, comprising at least the application, to the surface of the keratin material, of at least one composition as defined above. The term "human keratin materials" means the skin (of the body, face and around the eyes), hair, eyelashes, eyebrows, bodily hair, nails, lips or mucous membranes. The term "cosmetically acceptable medium" means any medium that is compatible with the skin and/or its integuments, which has a pleasant colour, odour and feel and which does not cause any unacceptable discomfort (stinging, tautness or redness) liable to dissuade the consumer from using this composition. The density of the compositions ranges from 0.3 to 0.8 and preferably from 0.4 to 0.6. It is measured at 20°C using a Gardener pycnometer, which is a metal pycnometer, with a volume of 100 ml and a cylindrical shape.

Method of measurement: the density of a product is the ratio of the weight of a given volume of this product to the weight of the same volume of water under defined temperature conditions, in this case the temperature is 20°C.

The pycnometer is weighed before and after filling, firstly with demineralized water, and then with the product to be analysed. The density value is calculated according to the following equation:

M2 - M0

d (T°C) = M1 - M0 where:

M0 is the weight of the empty pycnometer (grams)

M1 is the weight of the pycnometer + water at T°C (grams)

M2 is the weight of the pycnometer + product at T°C (grams)

PREPARATION PROCESSES

The compositions according to the invention can be prepared according to a process comprising the following steps:

a) the aqueous phase and the fatty phase for the emulsification are mixed under hot conditions at a temperature greater than 60°C;

b) the emulsion is left to cool and, starting from 50°C, mechanical stirring is carried out, optionally in the presence of an inert gas in particular chosen from air, nitrogen, carbon dioxide and oxygen, until the desired density is reached.

The present invention also relates to a process for preparing a composition as defined above, comprising the following steps:

b) the emulsion is left to cool and, starting from 50°C, mechanical stirring is carried out, optionally in the presence of an inert gas in particular chosen from air, nitrogen, carbon dioxide and oxygen, until the desired density is reached. According to one particular embodiment of the invention, a whipping machine, in particular a pressurized continuous whipping machine such as of the Howden B.V. Mondomix type, which is known in the food-processing industry, will be used for step b). The emulsion is melted with stirring in the melting vessel. It is then pumped so as to arrive at a mixing head (rotor/stator assembly) with a given amount of air. The rotation of the rotor will incorporate the air into the emulsion and form the foam. A back-pressure system can be used to increase the incorporation of the air into the emulsion. .

This type of whipping machine makes it possible in particular to adjust the following parameters: the emulsion temperature, the emulsion input flow rate, the emulsion input pressure, the air flow rate, the rotor speed, the temperature of the mixing head by means of a thermostatic jacket and the pressure of the mixing head (back-pressure system).

The emulsion input flow rate is preferably from 5 to 200 ml/minute.

The emulsion input pressure preferably ranges from 0.1 to 7 bar.

The air flow rate preferably ranges from 5 to 320 ml/minute.

The rotor speed preferably ranges from 200 to 1600 rpm.

The pressure of the mixing head is preferably from 1 to 4.5 bar.

The degree of expansion of a foam according to the invention is generally greater than 20%, preferably greater than 70% and preferentially greater than 100%.

The degree of expansion DegE is measured by means of the density before expansion and the density after expansion, according to the following formula:

DegE = 100 X (Dcream before expansion - Dcream after expansion) / Dcream after expansion

AQUEOUS PHASE

Water preferably represents from 20% to 90% of the formula, more preferentially from 30% to 70%, by weight, even more preferentially from 40% to 60% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The aqueous phase may be a demineralized water or alternatively a floral water such as cornflower water and/or a mineral water such as Vittel water, Lucas water or La Roche Posay water and/or a spring water.

The aqueous phase can also comprise a polyol which is miscible with water at ambient temperature (25°C) chosen in particular from polyols having in particular from 2 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably having from 2 to 10 carbon atoms and preferentially having from 2 to 6 carbon atoms, such as glycerol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, dipropylene glycol or diethylene glycol; glycol ethers (having in particular from 3 to 16 carbon atoms), such as mono-, di- or tripropylene glycol (Ci-C₄)alkyl ethers, or mono-, di- or triethylene glycol (Ci-C₄)alkyl ethers; and mixtures thereof. The composition according to the invention can comprise a polyol which is miscible with water at ambient temperature. Such polyols may promote the moisturization of the surface of the skin on which the composition is applied. In addition, the composition according to the invention can comprise a monoalcohol having from 2 to 6 carbon atoms, such as ethanol or isopropanol.

AQUEOUS PHASE THICKENERS OR GELLING AGENTS As aqueous phase thickeners or gelling agents, mention may be made of carboxyvinyl polymers, such as Carbopols (Carbomers) and the Pemulens (acrylate/Cio-C3o alkyl acrylate copolymer); polyacrylamides, for instance the crosslinked copolymers sold under the names Sepigel 305 (CTFA name: polyacrylamide/Ci3-i₄ isoparaffin/Laureth 7) or Simulgel 600 (CTFA name: acrylamide/sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate copolymer/isohexadecane/polysorbate 80) by the company SEPPIC; 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid polymers and copolymers, optionally crosslinked and/or neutralized, for instance poly(2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid) sold by the company Hoechst under the trade name Hostacerin AMPS® (CTFA name: ammonium polyacryloyldimethyl taurate) or Simulgel 800 sold by the company SEPPIC (CTFA name: sodium polyacryloyldimethyl taurate/polysorbate 80/sorbitan oleate); copolymers of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid and of hydroxyethyl acrylate, for instance Simulgel NS and Sepinov EMT 10 sold by the company SEPPIC; polysaccharide biopolymers, for instance xanthan gum, guar gum, locust bean gum, acacia gum, sclerotium gum, scleroglucans, chitin derivatives, chitosan derivatives, carrageenans, gellans or alginates; celluloses, such as microcrystalline cellulose, carboxymethylcellulose, hydroxymethylcellulose and hydroxypropylcellulose; water-soluble or water- dispersible silicone derivatives, for instance acrylic silicones, polyether silicones and cationic silicones, and mixtures thereof.

Polysaccharide biopolymers, and more particularly sclerotium gum, will preferably be used. The aqueous phase gelling agents or thickeners preferably represent from 0.1 % to 15%, more preferentially from 1 % to 10% and even more preferentially from 1 % to 5% relative to the total weight of the composition.

POLYOLS

According to one specific form of the invention, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one polyol.

This compound is particularly advantageous for conferring an affinity for water on the solid anhydrous composition in which it is present.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "polyol" should be understood as meaning any organic molecule comprising at least two free hydroxyl groups. Preferably, a polyol in accordance with the present invention is present in liquid form at ambient temperature. A polyol that is suitable for the invention may be a compound of linear, branched or cyclic, saturated or unsaturated alkyl type, bearing on the alkyl chain at least two -OH functions, in particular at least three -OH functions and more particularly at least four -OH functions. The polyols that are advantageously suitable for formulating a composition according to the present invention are those containing in particular from 2 to 32 carbon atoms and preferably 3 to 16 carbon atoms.

Advantageously, the polyol will be chosen from glycols, such as propylene glycols, polyethylene glycols, PEG/PPG/Polybutylene Glycol-8/5/3 Glycerin, for instance the product sold under the trade name Wilbride by the company Nof Corporation, glycerol, propylene glycol, pentylene glycol, butylene glycol, propanediol, ethylhexyl glycerol, caprylyl glycol or mixtures thereof. The polyol(s) is (are) preferably present in an amount ranging from 0.1 % to 30 % and better still from 1 % to 20%, by weight, relative to the total weight of said composition.

FATTY PHASE

The compositions in accordance with the invention comprise at least one fatty phase.

The fatty phase comprises at least one volatile or non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil and/or one volatile or non-volatile silicone oil.

For the purposes of the invention, the term "volatile oil" means an oil that is capable of evaporating on contact with the skin or the keratin fibre in less than one hour, at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure. The volatile oil(s) of the invention is (are) volatile cosmetic oils, which are liquid at ambient temperature, having a non-zero vapour pressure at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure, ranging in particular from 0.13 Pa to 40 000 Pa (10^"3 to 300 mmHg), in particular ranging from 1 .3 Pa to 13 000 Pa (0.01 to 100 mmHg) and more particularly ranging from 1 .3 Pa to 1300 Pa (0.01 to 10 mmHg).

The term "non-volatile oil" means an oil that remains on the skin or the keratin fibre at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure for at least several hours, and that in particular has a vapour pressure of less than 10^"3 mmHg (0.13 Pa). a) Hydrocarbon-based oils

Mention may in particular be made, as non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oils which can be used according to the invention, of: - hydrocarbon-based oils of vegetable origin such as triglyceride esters, which are generally fatty acid triesters of glycerol, the fatty acids of which may have chain lengths varying from C₄ to C2₄, these chains possibly being linear or branched, and saturated or unsaturated; these oils are in particular wheatgerm oil, sunflower oil, grapeseed oil, sesame seed oil, corn oil, apricot oil, castor oil, shea oil, avocado oil, olive oil, soybean oil, sweet almond oil, palm oil, rapeseed oil, cottonseed oil, hazelnut oil, macadamia oil, jojoba oil, alfalfa oil, poppy oil, pumpkin oil, marrow oil, blackcurrant oil, evening primrose oil, millet oil, barley oil, quinoa oil, rye oil, safflower oil, candlenut oil, passion-flower oil and musk rose oil; or else caprylic/capric acid triglycerides, for instance those sold by the company Stearineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol 810, 812 and 818 by the company Dynamit Nobel;

(ii) synthetic ethers having from 10 to 40 carbon atoms;

(iii) linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin, such as petroleum jelly, polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as Parleam, and squalane, and mixtures thereof; (iv) synthetic esters, for instance the oils of formula RCOOR' in which R represents a linear or branched fatty acid residue comprising from 1 to 40 carbon atoms and R' represents a hydrocarbon-based chain that is in particular branched, containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms, on condition that R + R' is > 10, for instance purcellin oil (cetostearyl octanoate), isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, C12-C15 alkyl benzoate, for instance the product sold under the trade name Finsolv TN or Witconol TN by the company Witco or Tegosoft TN by the company Evonik Goldschmidt, 2-ethyl phenyl benzoate, for instance the commercial product sold under the name X-Tend 226 by the company ISP, isopropyl lanolate, hexyl laurate, diisopropyl adipate, isononyl isononanoate, oleyl erucate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, isostearyl isostearate, alcohol or polyalcohol octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates, for instance propylene glycol dioctanoate; hydroxylated esters, for instance isostearyl lactate, diisostearyl malate; and pentaerythritol esters; citrates or tartrates, for instance linear C12-C13 dialkyl tartrates, such as those sold under the name Cosmacol ETI by the company Enichem Augusta Industriale, and also linear Ci₄-Ci₅ dialkyl tartrates such as those sold under the name Cosmacol ETL by the same company; acetates;

(v) fatty alcohols that are liquid at ambient temperature, containing a branched and/or unsaturated carbon-based chain having from 12 to 26 carbon atoms, for instance octyldodecanol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2- butyloctanol or 2-undecylpentadecanol;

(vi) higher fatty acids such as oleic acid, linoleic acid or linolenic acid; (vii) carbonates such as dicaprylyl carbonate, for instance the product sold under the name Cetiol CC by the company Cognis;

(viii) fatty amides, such as isopropyl N-lauroyl sarcosinate, such as the product sold under the trade name Eldew SL205 from Ajinomoto;

and mixtures thereof. Mention may in particular be made, as volatile hydrocarbon-based oils which can be used according to the invention, of hydrocarbon-based oils having from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, and in particular branched Cs-Cie alkanes, for instance Cs- Ci6 isoalkanes of petroleum origin (also known as isoparaffins), for instance isododecane (also known as 2,2,4,4,6-pentamethylheptane), isodecane or isohexadecane, or the alkanes described in the patent applications from the company Cognis, WO 2007/068371 or WO 2008/155059 (mixtures of different alkanes differing by at least one carbon). These alkanes are obtained from fatty alcohols, which are themselves obtained from coconut oil or palm oil, the oils sold under the trade name Isopar or Permethyl, branched Cs-Ci6 esters, isohexyl neopentanoate, and mixtures thereof.

Other volatile hydrocarbon-based oils, for instance petroleum distillates, in particular those sold under the name Shell Solt by the company Shell, may also be used. According to one embodiment, the volatile solvent is chosen from volatile hydrocarbon-based oils having from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, and mixtures thereof. b) Silicone oils

The non-volatile silicone oils can be chosen in particular from non-volatile polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMSs), polydimethylsiloxanes comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups which are pendent and/or at the end of the silicone chain, which groups each have from 2 to 24 carbon atoms, or phenyl silicones, such as phenyl trimethicones, phenyl dimethicones, phenyl(trimethylsiloxy)diphenylsiloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, diphenyl(methyldiphenyl)trisiloxanes or (2-phenylethyl)trimethylsiloxysilicates. Volatile silicone oils that may be mentioned, for example, include volatile linear or cyclic silicone oils, in particular those with a viscosity < 8 centistokes (8x10^"6 m²/s) and having in particular from 2 to 7 silicon atoms, these silicones optionally comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms. As volatile silicone oil that may be used in the invention, mention may be made in particular of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, heptamethylhexyltrisiloxane, heptamethyloctyltrisiloxane, hexamethyldisiloxane, octamethyltrisiloxane, decamethyltetrasiloxane and dodecamethylpentasiloxane, and mixtures thereof. Mention may also be made of the volatile linear alkyltrisiloxane oils of general formula (I):

where R represents an alkyl group comprising from 2 to 4 carbon atoms, one or more hydrogen atoms of which can be substituted by a fluorine or chlorine atom. Mention may be made, among the oils of general formula (I), of:

3-butyl-1 ,1 ,1 ,3,5,5,5-heptamethyltrisiloxane,

3-propyl-1 ,1 ,1 ,3,5,5,5-heptamethyltrisiloxane, and

3-ethyl-1 ,1 ,1 ,3,5,5,5-heptamethyltrisiloxane,

corresponding to the oils of formula (I) for which R is, respectively, a butyl group, a propyl group or an ethyl group.

Preferentially, the fatty phase will contain one or more vegetable oils.

The oil(s) preferably represent(s) from 1 % to 50% by weight, more preferentially from 5% to 30% and even more preferentially from 5% to 20% relative to the total weight of the composition. SOLID OR PASTY FATTY SUBSTANCES

According to one particular form of the invention, the fatty phase of the composition in accordance with the invention comprises at least one fatty substance chosen from solid fatty substances and pasty fatty substances.

Pasty fatty substances

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "pasty fatty substance" is understood to mean a lipophilic fatty compound which exhibits a reversible solid/liquid change in state, which exhibits, in the solid state, an anisotropic crystalline arrangement and which comprises, at a temperature of 23°C, a liquid fraction and a solid fraction.

In other words, the starting melting point of the pasty fatty substance can be less than 23°C. The liquid fraction of the pasty fatty substance, measured at 23°C, can represent from 9% to 97% by weight of the pasty fatty substance. This liquid fraction at 23°C preferably represents between 15% and 85 % and more preferably between 40% and 85 % by weight. For the purposes of the invention, the melting point corresponds to the temperature of the most endothermic peak observed in thermal analysis (DSC) as described in the standard ISO 1 1357-3; 1999. The melting point of a pasty fatty substance can be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example the calorimeter sold under the name MDSC 2920 by the company TA Instruments.

The measurement protocol is as follows:

A sample of 5 mg of pasty fatty substance placed in a crucible is subjected to a first temperature rise ranging from -20°C to 100°C, at a heating rate of 10°C/minute, is then cooled from 100°C to -20°C at a cooling rate of 10°C/minute and is finally subjected to a second temperature rise ranging from -20°C to 100°C, at a heating rate of 5°C/minute. During the second temperature rise, the variation in the difference in power absorbed by the empty crucible and by the crucible containing the sample of pasty fatty substance is measured as a function of the temperature. The melting point of the pasty fatty substance is the value of the temperature corresponding to the tip of the peak of the curve representing the variation in the difference in power absorbed as a function of the temperature. The liquid fraction by weight of the pasty fatty substance at 23°C is equal to the ratio of the enthalpy of fusion consumed at 23°C to the enthalpy of fusion of the pasty fatty substance.

The enthalpy of fusion of the pasty fatty substance is the enthalpy consumed by the latter in order to pass from the solid state to the liquid state. The pasty fatty substance is said to be in the solid state when all of its mass is in crystalline solid form. The pasty fatty substance is said to be in the liquid state when all of its mass is in liquid form. The enthalpy of fusion of the pasty fatty substance is equal to the area under the curve of the thermogram obtained using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), such as the calorimeter sold under the name MDSC 2920 by the company TA Instruments, with a temperature rise of 5°C or 10°C per minute, according to the standard ISO 1 1357-3:1999.

The enthalpy of fusion of the pasty fatty substance is the amount of energy required to make the pasty fatty substance change from the solid state to the liquid state. It is expressed in J/g. The enthalpy of fusion consumed at 23°C is the amount of energy absorbed by the sample to change from the solid state to the state that it has at 23°C, constituted of a liquid fraction and a solid fraction.

The liquid fraction of the pasty fatty substance measured at 32°C preferably represents from 30% to 100% by weight of the pasty fatty substance, preferably from 50% to 100%, more preferably from 60% to 100% by weight of the pasty fatty substance. When the liquid fraction of the pasty fatty substance measured at 32°C is equal to 100%, the temperature of the end of the melting range of the pasty fatty substance is less than or equal to 32°C.

The liquid fraction of the pasty fatty substance measured at 32°C is equal to the ratio of the enthalpy of fusion consumed at 32°C to the enthalpy of fusion of the pasty fatty substance. The enthalpy of fusion consumed at 32°C is calculated in the same way as the enthalpy of fusion consumed at 23°C.

The pasty fatty substance is preferably chosen from synthetic fatty substances and fatty substances of vegetable origin. A pasty fatty substance can be obtained by synthesis from starting materials of vegetable origin. The pasty fatty substance is advantageously chosen from:

- lanolin and derivatives thereof,

- polyol ethers chosen from ethers of pentaerythritol and of polyalkylene glycol, ethers of fatty alcohol and of sugar, and mixtures thereof, the ether of pentaerythritol and of polyethylene glycol comprising 5 oxyethylene units (5 OE) (CTFA name: PEG-5 Pentaerythrityl Ether), the ether of pentaerythritol and of polypropylene glycol comprising 5 oxypropylene (5 OP) units (CTFA name: PPG- 5 Pentaerythrityl Ether), and mixtures thereof, and more especially the PEG-5 Pentaerythrityl Ether, PPG-5 Pentaerythrityl Ether and soybean oil mixture, sold under the name Lanolide by the company Vevy, in which mixture the constituents are in a 46/46/8 ratio by weight: 46% PEG-5 Pentaerythrityl Ether, 46% PPG-5 Pentaerythrityl Ether and 8% soybean oil,

- polymeric or non-polymeric silicone compounds,

- polymeric or non-polymeric fluoro compounds,

- vinyl polymers, in particular:

- olefin homopolymers and copolymers,

- hydrogenated diene homopolymers and copolymers,

- liposoluble polyethers resulting from the polyetherification between one or more C2-C100 and preferably C2-C50 diols,

- esters,

and/or mixtures thereof.

The pasty fatty substance is preferably a polymer, in particular a hydrocarbon- based polymer.

Among the liposoluble polyethers that are particularly preferred are copolymers of ethylene oxide and/or of propylene oxide with C6-C30 long-chain alkylene oxides, more preferably such that the weight ratio of the ethylene oxide and/or of the propylene oxide to the alkylene oxides in the copolymer is from 5:95 to 70:30. In this family, mention will in particular be made of copolymers such that the long- chain alkylene oxides are arranged in blocks having an average molecular weight of from 1000 to 10 000, for example a polyoxyethylene/polydodecyl glycol block copolymer, such as the ethers of dodecanediol (22 mol) and of polyethylene glycol (45 OE) sold under the brand name Elfacos ST9 by Akzo Nobel.

Among the esters, the following are in particular preferred:

- esters of a glycerol oligomer, especially diglycerol esters, in particular condensates of adipic acid and of glycerol, for which some of the hydroxyl groups of the glycerols have reacted with a mixture of fatty acids such as stearic acid, capric acid, isostearic acid and 12-hydroxystearic acid, in particular such as those sold under the brand name Softisan 649 by the company Sasol,

- the arachidyl propionate sold under the brand name Waxenol 801 by Alzo, phytosterol esters,

- fatty acid triglycerides and derivatives thereof,

- pentaerythritol esters,

- esters of dimer diol and dimer diacid, if appropriate esterified on their free alcohol or acid function(s) by acid or alcohol radicals, in particular dimer dilinoleate esters; such esters can be chosen in particular from esters with the following INCI nomenclature: bis-behenyl/isostearyl/phytosteryl dimer dilinoleyl dimer dilinoleate (Plandool G), phytosteryl isostearyl dimer dilinoleate (Lusplan PI- DA or Lusplan PHY/IS-DA), phytosteryl/isostearyl/cetyl/stearyl/behenyl dimer dilinoleate (Plandool H or Plandool S), and mixtures thereof,

- mango butter, such as the product sold under the reference Lipex 203 by the company AarhusKarlshamn,

- hydrogenated soybean oil, hydrogenated coconut oil, hydrogenated rapeseed oil or mixtures of hydrogenated vegetable oils, such as the soybean, coconut, palm and rapeseed hydrogenated vegetable oil mixture, for example the mixture sold under the reference Akogel® by the company AarhusKarlshamn (INCI name: Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil),

- shea butter, in particular the product having the INCI name Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, such as the product sold under the reference Sheasoft® by the company AarhusKarlshamn,

- cocoa butter, in particular the product which is sold under the name CT Cocoa Butter Deodorized by the company Dutch Cocoa BV or the product which is sold under the name Beurre De Cacao NCB HD703 758 by the company Barry Callebaut,

- shorea butter, in particular the product which is sold under the name Dub Shorea T by the company Stearineries Dubois,

and mixtures thereof.

According to one preferred embodiment, the pasty fatty substance is chosen from shea butter, cocoa butter, shorea butter, a soybean, coconut, palm and rapeseed hydrogenated vegetable oil mixture, and mixtures thereof, and more particularly shea butter.

Waxes

The waxes under consideration in the context of the present invention are generally deformable or nondeformable solid lipophilic compounds at ambient temperature (25°C) which exhibit a reversible solid/liquid change in state and which have a melting point of greater than or equal to 30°C which can range up to 200°C and in particular up to 120°C.

On bringing one or more waxes in accordance with the invention to the liquid state (melting), it is possible to render it or them miscible with one or more oils and to form a macroscopically homogeneous mixture of wax(es) and oil(s) but, on bringing the temperature of said mixture back to ambient temperature, recrystallization of the wax(es) in the oil(s) of the mixture is obtained.

For the purposes of the invention, the melting point corresponds to the temperature of the most endothermic peak observed in thermal analysis (DSC) as described in the standard ISO 1 1357-3; 1999. The melting point of the wax can be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example the calorimeter sold under the name MDSC 2920 by the company TA Instruments.

The measurement protocol is as follows:

A sample of 5 mg of wax placed in a crucible is subjected to a first temperature rise ranging from -20°C to 100°C, at a heating rate of 10°C/minute, is then cooled from 100°C to -20°C at a cooling rate of 10°C/minute and is finally subjected to a second temperature rise ranging from -20°C to 100°C, at a heating rate of 5°C/minute. During the second temperature rise, the variation in the difference in power absorbed by the empty crucible and by the crucible containing the sample of wax is measured as a function of the temperature. The melting point of the compound is the value of the temperature corresponding to the tip of the peak of the curve representing the variation in the difference in power absorbed as a function of the temperature. The waxes capable of being used in a composition according to the invention are chosen from waxes of animal, vegetable, mineral or synthetic origin and mixtures thereof, which are solid at ambient temperature. They can be hydrocarbon-based, fluorinated and/or silicone waxes.

Mention may in particular be made, by way of examples, of hydrocarbon-based waxes, such as natural beeswax (or bleached beeswax), synthetic beeswax, carnauba wax, rice bran wax, such as that sold under the reference NC 1720 by the company Cera Rica Noda, candelilla wax, such as that sold under the reference SP 75 G by the company Strahl & Pitsch, microcrystalline waxes, for instance the microcrystalline waxes having a melting point of greater than 85°C, such as the products HI-MIC® 1070, 1080, 1090 and 3080 sold by the company Nippon Seiro, ceresins or ozokerites, for instance isoparaffins having a melting point of less than 40°C, such as the product EMW-0003 sold by the company Nippon Seiro, a-olefin oligomers, such as the Performa V® 825, 103 and 260 polymers sold by the company New Phase Technologies, ethylene/propylene copolymers, such as Performalene® EP 700, polyethylene waxes (preferably with a molecular weight of between 400 and 600), Fischer-Tropsch waxes or the sunflower seed wax sold by the company Koster Keunen under the reference Sunflower Wax.

Mention may also be made of silicone waxes, such as alkyl or alkoxy dimethicones having from 16 to 45 carbon atoms, or fluorinated waxes.

The level of fatty substances chosen from solid fatty substances and pasty fatty substances in the composition can be between 2% and 20% by weight, preferably between 5% and 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition NON-EMULSIFYING ELASTOMERIC ORGANOPOLYSILOXANE

According to one particular form of the invention, the fatty phase can also contain at least one non-emulsifying elastomeric organopolysiloxane. The term "non-emulsifying organopolysiloxane" defines elastomeric organopolysiloxane that do not contain a hydrophilic chain, such as polyoxyalkylene or polyglycerol units.

The crosslinked elastomeric organopolysiloxane in accordance with the invention may be obtained via a crosslinking addition reaction of diorganopolysiloxane containing at least one hydrogen bonded to silicon and of diorganopolysiloxane having ethylenically unsaturated groups bonded to silicon, in particular in the presence of a platinum catalyst; or via a dehydrogenation crosslinking condensation reaction between a diorganopolysiloxane containing hydroxyl end groups and a diorganopolysiloxane containing at least one hydrogen bonded to silicon, in particular in the presence of an organotin; or via a crosslinking condensation reaction of a diorganopolysiloxane containing hydroxyl end groups and of a hydrolysable organopolysilane; or via thermal crosslinking of organopolysiloxane, in particular in the presence of an organoperoxide catalyst; or via crosslinking of organopolysiloxane by high-energy radiation such as gamma rays, ultraviolet rays or an electron beam.

Preferably, the crosslinked elastomeric organopolysiloxane is obtained via a crosslinking addition reaction (A₂) of diorganopolysiloxane containing at least two hydrogens each bonded to a silicon, and (B₂) of diorganopolysiloxane having at least two ethylenically unsaturated groups bonded to silicon, in particular in the presence (C₂) of a platinum catalyst, as described, for instance, in patent application EP-A-295 886.

In particular, the organopolysiloxane may be obtained by reaction of dimethylvinylsiloxy-terminated dimethylpolysiloxane and of trimethylsiloxy- terminated methylhydropolysiloxane, in the presence of a platinum catalyst. Compound (A₂) is the base reagent for the formation of elastomeric organopolysiloxane, and the crosslinking takes place via an addition reaction of compound (A₂) with compound (B₂) in the presence of the catalyst (C₂).

Compound (A₂) is advantageously a diorganopolysiloxane having at least two lower (for example C₂-C₄) alkenyl groups; the lower alkenyl group may be chosen from vinyl, allyl and propenyl groups. These lower alkenyl groups may be located in any position on the organopolysiloxane molecule, but are preferably located at the ends of the organopolysiloxane molecule. The organopolysiloxane (A2) may have a branched chain, linear chain, cyclic or network structure, but the linear chain structure is preferred. Compound (A₂) may have a viscosity ranging from the liquid state to the gum state. Preferably, compound (A₂) has a viscosity of at least 100 centistokes at 25°C.

The organopolysiloxanes (A₂) may be chosen from methylvinylsiloxanes, methylvinylsiloxane/dimethylsiloxane copolymers, dimethylvinylsiloxy-terminated dimethylpolysiloxanes, dimethylvinylsiloxy-terminated dimethylsiloxane/methylphenylsiloxane copolymers, dimethylvinylsiloxy- terminated dimethylsiloxane/diphenylsiloxane/methylvinylsiloxane copolymers, trimethylsiloxy-terminated dimethylsiloxane/methylvinylsiloxane copolymers, trimethylsiloxy-terminated

dimethylsiloxane/methylphenylsiloxane/methylvinylsiloxane copolymers, dimethylvinylsiloxy-terminated methyl(3,3,3-trifluoropropyl)polysiloxanes, and dimethylvinylsiloxy-terminated dimethylsiloxane/methyl(3,3,3- trifluoropropyl)siloxane copolymers.

Compound (B₂) is in particular an organopolysiloxane having at least two hydrogens bonded to silicon in each molecule and is thus the crosslinking agent for compound (A₂). Advantageously, the sum of the number of ethylenic groups per molecule of compound (A₂) and the number of hydrogen atoms bonded to silicon per molecule of compound (B₂) is at least 4.

Compound (B₂) may be in any molecular structure, in particular in a linear chain, branched chain or cyclic structure. Compound (B₂) may have a viscosity at 25°C ranging from 1 to 50 000 centistokes, in particular so as to be miscible with compound (A). It is advantageous for compound (B₂) to be added in an amount such that the molecular ratio between the total amount of hydrogen atoms bonded to silicon in compound (B₂) and the total amount of all the ethylenically unsaturated groups in compound (A₂) is in the range from 1/1 to 20/1 . Compound (B₂) may be chosen from trimethylsiloxy-terminated methylhydropolysiloxanes, trimethylsiloxy-terminated dimethylsiloxane/methylhydrosiloxane copolymers and dimethylsiloxane/methylhydrosiloxane cyclic copolymers. Compound (C₂) is the catalyst for the crosslinking reaction, and is in particular chloroplatinic acid, chloroplatinic acid-olefin complexes, chloroplatinic acid- alkenylsiloxane complexes, chloroplatinic acid-diketone complexes, platinum black and platinum on a support. The catalyst (C₂) is preferably added in an amount of from 0.1 to 1000 parts by weight and better still from 1 to 100 parts by weight, as clean platinum metal, per 1000 parts by weight of the total amount of compounds (A₂) and (B₂).

Other organic groups may be bonded to silicon in the organopolysiloxanes (A₂) and (B₂) described previously, for instance alkyl groups such as methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl or octyl; substituted alkyl groups such as 2-phenylethyl, 2- phenylpropyl or 3,3,3-trifluoropropyl; aryl groups such as phenyl, tolyl or xylyl; substituted aryl groups such as phenylethyl; and substituted monovalent hydrocarbon-based groups such as an epoxy group, a carboxylate ester group or a mercapto group.

According to one particular form of the invention, the non-emulsifying elastomeric organopolysiloxane used is in powder form. As non-emulsifying elastomeric organopolysiloxanes, use may be made of those in powder form having the INCI name: Dimethicone/vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer, for instance the commercial products sold under the names Dow Corning 9505 Cosmetic Powder and Dow Corning 9506 Cosmetic Powder by the company Dow Corning.

According to one preferred embodiment, the non-emulsifying elastomeric organopolysiloxane is mixed with at least one volatile or non-volatile hydrocarbon- based oil and/or volatile or non-volatile silicone oil, such as the oils described above, to form a gel. In these gels, the non-emulsifying elastomeric organopolysiloxane is in the form of non-spherical particles.

As mixtures of oil/non-emulsifying elastomeric organopolysiloxane in gel form, use may be made of the products having the following INCI names: - Dimethicone and dimethicone/vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer, for instance the commercial products sold under the names KSG 6 and KSG 16 by the company Shin-Etsu;

- Cyclopentasiloxane and dimethicone/vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer, for instance the commercial products sold under the names KSG 15 and KSG 24 by the company Shin-Etsu; Dow Corning 9040 Silicone Elastomer Blend by the company Dow Corning;

- Dimethicone and dimethicone crosspolymer, for instance the commercial product sold under the name Dow Corning 9041 Silicone Elastomer Blend by the company Dow Corning;

- Mineral oil and vinyl dimethicone/lauryl dimethicone crosspolymer, for instance KSG 41 by the company Shin-Etsu;

- Isododecane and vinyl dimethicone/lauryl dimethicone crosspolymer, for instance KSG 42 sold by the company Shin-Etsu;

- T ethylhexanoin and vinyl dimethicone/lauryl dimethicone crosspolymer, for instance KSG 43 sold by the company Shin Etsu;

- Squalane and vinyl dimethicone/lauryl dimethicone crosspolymer, for instance KSG 44 sold by the company Shin Etsu.

Use will be made more particularly of the non-emulsifying elastomeric organopolysiloxanes in gel form having the INCI name: - Dimethicone and dimethicone/vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer, for instance the commercial products sold under the names KSG 6 and KSG 16 by the company Shin-Etsu.

The non-emulsifying elastomeric organopolysiloxane is preferably present in the composition in active material concentrations ranging from 0.32 % to 2.53 % by weight and more preferentially ranging from 0.32 % to 1 .58 % by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

FATTY PHASE THICKENERS OR GELLING GENTS

As fatty phase thickeners or gelling agents, mention may be made of synthetic polymers, such as the poly C10-C30 alkyl acrylates sold under the name Intelimer IPA 13-1 and Intelimer IPA 13-6 by the company Air Products, hydrophobically modified acrylamidomethylpropanesulfonic acid (AMPS®) copolymers, for instance the copolymer known under the INCI name: Ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate/steareth-25 methacrylate crosspolymer sold under the trade name Aristoflex HMS by the company Clariant or else modified clays, such as hectorite and derivatives thereof, for instance the products sold under the Bentone names.

Use will preferably be made of the copolymer known under the INCI name: Ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate/steareth-25 methacrylate crosspolymer sold under the trade name Aristoflex HMS by the company Clariant. The fatty phase gelling agents or thickeners preferably represent from 0.1 % to 15%, more preferentially from 1 % to 10% and even more preferentially from 1 % to 5% relative to the total weight of the composition. FATTY ACIDS (SOAPS) The fatty phase of the compositions according to the invention comprises at least one fatty acid or a mixture of fatty acids partially or totally neutralized with an alkaline agent such as organic bases, such as alkanolamines (preferably triethanolamine), or inorganic bases, for instance potassium hydroxide or sodium hydroxide.

The fatty acids that can be used according to the invention are preferably C12 to C22 and more preferentially CM to C22 fatty acids. Among the fatty acids to be neutralized, mention may be made of lauric acid, oleic acid, coconut oil acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid and stearic acid, or mixtures thereof.

Sodium stearate will more particularly be used. Depending on the nature of the composition and on the desired cosmetic application, the fatty acids can represent from 1 % to 20% of the fatty phase, preferentially from 5% to 15% and even more preferentially from 7% to 10% relative to the total weight of the composition. The partial or total neutralisation of the fatty acid can range from 20% to 100%, preferably from 50% to 100% and more preferentially from 70% to 90%.

HYDROPHOBIC SILICA AEROGEL PARTICLES The fatty phase of the compositions according to the invention also comprises silica aerogel particles intended to stabilize the composition according to the invention by taking up a position at the dispersed phase/continuous phase interface. Aerogels are ultralight porous materials which were first produced by Kristler in 1932.

They are generally synthesized by a sol-gel process in a liquid medium and then dried by extraction with a supercritical fluid. The supercritical fluid most commonly used is supercritical CO2. This type of drying makes it possible to avoid shrinkage of the pores and of the material.

Other types of drying also make it possible to obtain porous materials starting from gel, namely (i) drying by freeze drying, which consists in solidifying the gel at low temperature and in then subliming the solvent, and (ii) drying by evaporation. The materials thus obtained are referred to respectively as cryogels and xerogels. The sol-gel process and the various drying operations are described in detail in Brinker C.J. and Scherer G.W. , Sol-Gel Science, New York, Academic Press, 1990.

The term "hydrophobic silica" means any silica of which the surface is treated with silylating agents, for example halogenated silanes such as alkylchlorosilanes, siloxanes, in particular dimethylsiloxanes such as hexamethyldisiloxane, or silazanes, so as to functionalize the OH groups with silyl groups Si-Rn, for example trimethylsilyl groups. Preferably, the hydrophobic aerogel particles that may be used in the present invention advantageously have a specific surface area per unit of mass (SM) ranging from 200 to 1500 m²/g, preferably from 600 to 1200 m²/g and better still from 600 to 800 m²/g and/or have an oil-absorption capacity, measured at the wet point, ranging from 5 to 18 ml/g of particles, preferably from 6 to 15 ml/g and better still from 8 to 12 ml/g.

The absorption capacity measured at the wet point, denoted Wp, corresponds to the amount of oil which it is necessary to add to 100 g of particles in order to obtain a homogeneous paste.

It is measured according to the "wet point" method or method of determination of oil uptake of a powder described in the standard NF T 30-022. It corresponds to the amount of oil adsorbed onto the available surface of the powder and/or absorbed by the powder by measurement of the wet point, described below:

An amount m = 2 g of powder is placed on a glass plate and the oil (isononyl isononanoate) is then added dropwise. After addition of 4 to 5 drops of oil to the powder, mixing is carried out using a spatula, and addition of oil is continued until conglomerates of oil and powder have formed. From this point, the oil is added at the rate of one drop at a time and the mixture is subsequently triturated with the spatula. The addition of oil is stopped when a firm and smooth paste is obtained. This paste must be able to be spread over the glass plate without cracks or the formation of lumps. The volume Vs (expressed in ml) of oil used is then noted.

The oil uptake corresponds to the ratio Vs/m.

The hydrophobic silica aerogel particles used according to the present invention are preferably aerogel particles of silylated silica (INCI name: silica silylate).

The preparation of hydrophobic silica aerogel particles modified at the surface by silylation was previously described in document US 7 470 725. Use will be made in particular of aerogel particles of hydrophobic silica surface- modified with trimethylsilyl groups (trimethylsiloxyl silica).

The hydrophobic aerogel particles that may be used in the present invention advantageously have a size, expressed as the mean diameter (D[0.5]), of less than 1500 μιτι, preferably ranging from 1 to 30 μιτι, preferably from 5 to 25 μιτι, better still from 5 to 20 μιτι and even better still from 5 to 15 μιτι.

The specific surface area per unit of mass can be determined by the nitrogen absorption method, known as the BET (Brunauer-Emmett-Teller) method, described in The Journal of the American Chemical Society, Vol. 60, page 309, February 1938, which corresponds to international standard ISO 5794/1 (appendix D). The BET specific surface area corresponds to the total specific surface area of the particles under consideration. The sizes of the aerogel particles according to the invention can be measured by static light scattering using a commercial particle size analyser such as the MasterSizer 2000 machine from Malvern. The data are processed on the basis of the Mie scattering theory. This theory, which is exact for isotropic particles, makes it possible to determine, in the case of non-spherical particles, an "effective" particle diameter. This theory is described in particular in the publication by Van de Hulst, H.C., "Light Scattering by Small Particles", Chapters 9 and 10, Wiley, New York, 1957. According to one advantageous embodiment, the hydrophobic aerogel particles used in the present invention have a specific surface area per unit of mass (SM) ranging from 600 to 800 m₂/g and a size, expressed as the volume mean diameter (D[0.5]), ranging from 5 to 20 μιτι and better still from 5 to 15 μιτι. The hydrophobic aerogel particles used in the present invention can advantageously have a packed density p ranging from 0.04 g/cm³ to 0.10 g/cm³ and preferably from 0.05 g/cm³ to 0.08 g/cm³.

In the context of the present invention, this density can be assessed according to the following protocol, known as packed density protocol:

40 g of powder are poured into a graduated measuring cylinder and then the measuring cylinder is placed on a Stav 2003 device from Stampf Volumeter. The measuring cylinder is subsequently subjected to a series of 2500 packing actions (this operation is repeated until the difference in volume between two consecutive tests is less than 2%) and then the final volume Vf of packed powder is measured directly on the measuring cylinder.

The packed density is determined by the ratio: mass (m)/Vf, in this instance 40/Vf (Vf being expressed in cm³ and m in g).

According to one embodiment, the hydrophobic aerogel particles used in the present invention have a specific surface area per unit of volume SV ranging from 5 to 60 m²/cm³, preferably from 10 to 50 m²/cm³ and better still from 15 to 40 m²/cm₃.

The specific surface area per unit of volume is given by the relationship: SV = SM^*p, where p is the packed density, expressed in g/cm³, and SM is the specific surface area per unit of mass, expressed in m²/g, as defined above.

Mention may be made, as hydrophobic silica aerogels which can be used in the invention, for example, of the aerogel sold under the name VM-2260 (INCI name: Silica silylate) by the company Dow Corning, the particles of which have a mean size of approximately 1000 microns and a specific surface area per unit of mass ranging from 600 to 800 m²/g.

Mention may also be made of the aerogels sold by the company Cabot under the references Aerogel TLD 201 , Aerogel OGD 201 and Aerogel TLD 203, Enova Aerogel MT 1 100 and Enova Aerogel MT 1200. Use will more particularly be made of the aerogel sold under the name VM-2270 (INCI name: Silica silylate) by the company Dow Corning, the particles of which have a mean size ranging from 5 to15 microns and a specific surface area per unit of mass ranging from 600 to 800 m²/g.

The silica aerogel particles in accordance with the invention are preferably present in the cosmetic composition in an amount of active material ranging from 0.5% to 15% by weight and more preferentially from 1 % to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

ADJUVANTS

The compositions in accordance with the present invention can also comprise one or more conventional cosmetic adjuvants chosen from demulcents, humectants, opacifiers, stabilizers, emollients, fragrances, preservatives, lipophilic active agents, hydrophilic active agents, polymers, fillers, a colouring agent or any other ingredient normally used in the cosmetics and/or dermatological fields.

Of course, those skilled in the art will take care to select the aforementioned optional additional compound(s) and/or the amounts thereof such that the advantageous properties intrinsically associated with the compositions in accordance with the invention are not, or are not substantially, adversely affected by the envisaged addition(s). Among the hydrophilic or lipophilic active agents, mention may be made of:

- vitamins and derivatives or precursors thereof, alone or as mixtures;

- antioxidants;

- free-radical scavengers;

- UV-screening agents;

- self-tanning agents;

- antiglycation agents;

- calmatives;

- NO-synthase inhibitors;

- agents for stimulating the synthesis of dermal or epidermal macromolecules and/or for preventing their degradation;

- agents for stimulating fibroblast proliferation;

- agents for stimulating keratinocyte proliferation;

- muscle relaxants;

- tensioning agents;

- matting agents;

- keratolytic agents;

- desquamating agents;

- moisturizers;

- anti-inflammatory agents;

- agents that act on the energy metabolism of cells;

- insect repellents;

- substance P or substance CRGP antagonists;

- anti-wrinkle agents;

- anti-ageing agents. According to one particular form, the compositions of the invention additionally comprise one or more fillers which make it possible, in particular, to confer thereon supplementary sensoriality, mattness, coverage, wear and/or improved- stability properties.

Fillers

A composition in accordance with the invention can also comprise at least one filler, of organic or inorganic nature, which makes it possible, in particular, to confer thereon supplementary mattness, coverage, wear and/or improved-stability properties.

The content of filler(s) can range from 0.1 % to 15%, preferentially from 1 % to 10% and even more preferentially from 1 % to 5% relative to the total weight of the composition.

The term "filler" should be understood to mean colourless or white solid particles of any shape which are in a form that is insoluble and dispersed in the medium of the composition. These particles, of inorganic or organic nature, can confer body or rigidity on the composition and/or softness and uniformity on the makeup.

The fillers used in the compositions according to the present invention may be in lamellar, globular or spherical form, in the form of fibres or in any other intermediate form between these defined forms. The fillers according to the invention may or may not be surface-coated, and in particular they may be surface-treated with silicones, amino acids, fluoro derivatives or any other substance that promotes the dispersion and compatibility of the filler in the composition. As examples of inorganic fillers, mention may be made of talc, mica, silica, hollow silica microspheres, kaolin, calcium carbonate, magnesium carbonate, hydroxyapatite, boron nitride, glass or ceramic microcapsules, and composites of silica and titanium dioxide, such as the TSG series sold by Nippon Sheet Glass. As examples of organic fillers, mention may be made of polyamide powders (Orgasol Nylon® from Atochem), polyethylene powders, poly(methyl methacrylate) powders, polytetrafluoroethylene (Teflon) powders, acrylic acid copolymer powders (Polytrap from the company Dow Corning), lauroyl lysine, polymeric hollow microspheres such as those of polyvinylidene chloride/acrylonitrile, for instance Expancel (Nobel Industrie), hexamethylene diisocyanate/trimethylol hexyllactone copolymer powder (Plastic Powder from Toshiki), silicone resin microbeads (Tospearl from Toshiba for example), synthetic or natural micronized waxes, metal soaps derived from organic carboxylic acids having from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably from 12 to 18 carbon atoms, for example zinc stearate, magnesium stearate or lithium stearate, zinc laurate, magnesium myristate, Polypore ® L 200 (Chemdal Corporation), crosslinked elastomeric organopolysiloxane powders coated with silicone resin, in particular with silsesquioxane resin, as described, for example, in patent US 5 538 793, polyurethane powders, in particular powders of crosslinked polyurethane comprising a copolymer, said copolymer comprising trimethylol hexyllactone. It may in particular be a hexamethylene diisocyanate/trimethylol hexyllactone polymer. Such particles are in particular commercially available, for example, under the name Plastic Powder D-400® or Plastic Powder D-800® from the company Toshiki, and mixtures thereof.

According to one particular embodiment of the invention, the composition comprises at least one crosslinked elastomeric organopolysiloxane powder coated with silicone resin. The presence of this filler also makes it possible to thicken and/or gel the composition of the invention.

The crosslinked elastomeric organopolysiloxane powder(s) coated with silicone resin can be present in an amount ranging from 0.5% to 12% by weight, advantageously from 2% to 10% by weight and preferably from 7% to 9% by weight relative to the total of weight of said composition.

Mention may in particular be made of the crosslinked elastomeric organopolysiloxane powders coated with silicone resin, in particular with silsesquioxane resin, as described, for example, in patent US 5 538 793. Such elastomer powders are sold under the names KSP-100®, KSP-101®, KSP-102®, KSP-103®, KSP-104® and KSP-105® by the company Shin Etsu; mention may also be made of crosslinked elastomeric organopolysiloxane powders coated with silicone resin such as powders of hybrid silicone functionalized with fluoroalkyl groups, in particular sold under the name KSP-200 by the company Shin Etsu; or powders of hybrid silicones functionalized with phenyl groups, in particular sold under the name KSP-300 by the company Shin Etsu.

Mention may also be made of the concave elastomeric organopolysiloxane particles of portions of spheres that can be used according to the invention (CTFA name: methyl silanol/silicate crosspolymer), such as:

bowl-shaped particles constituted of the crosslinked organosilicone TAK-1 10 (methylsilanol/silicate crosslinked polymer) from the company Takemoto Oil & Fat, of width 2.5 μιτι, height 1 .2 μιτι and thickness 150 nm (particles sold under the name NLK-506 by the company Takemoto Oil & Fat);

bowl-shaped particles constituted of the crosslinked organosilicone TAK-1 10 (methylsilanol/silicate crosslinked polymer) from the company Takemoto Oil & Fat, of width 0.8 μιτι, height 0.4 μιτι and thickness 130 nm (particles sold under the name NLK-515 by the company Takemoto Oil & Fat);

bowl-shaped particles constituted by the crosslinked organosilicone TAK-1 10 (methylsilanol/silicate crosslinked polymer) from the company Takemoto Oil & Fat, of width 7 μιτι, height 3.5 μιτι and thickness 200 nm (particles sold under the name NLK-510 by the company Takemoto Oil & Fat).

Use will preferably be made of silica particles (preferably of particle size between 1 and 20 microns), starch particles (preferably of particle size between 10 and 20 microns), polyethylene particles, poly(methyl methacrylate) powders, polytetrafluoroethylene (Teflon) powders, lauroyl lysine, hexamethylene diisocyanate/trimethylol hexyllactone copolymer powder (Plastic Powder from Toshiki), elastomeric organopolysiloxane powders, crosslinked elastomeric organopolysiloxane powders coated with silicone resin, and concave elastomeric organopolysiloxane particles of portions of spheres (ctfa name: methyl silanol/silicate crosspolymer).

Colouring agent

The colouring agent present in the compositions of the invention is chosen, for example, from the group constituted of pigments, dyes and interference particles.

According to one embodiment, the colouring agent is chosen from pigments.

A cosmetic composition in accordance with the invention may advantageously incorporate at least one colouring agent chosen from organic or inorganic colorants, in particular such as the pigments or nacres conventionally used in cosmetic compositions, liposoluble or water-soluble dyes, materials with a specific optical effect, and mixtures thereof.

The term "pigments" should be understood to mean white or coloured, inorganic or organic particles which are insoluble in an aqueous solution and are intended for colouring and/or opacifying the resulting film.

The pigments may be present in a proportion of from 0.1 % to 40% by weight, especially from 0.5% to 30% by weight and in particular from 1 % to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition. As inorganic pigments that can be used in the invention, mention may be made of titanium oxides, zirconium oxides or cerium oxides, and also zinc oxides, iron oxides or chromium oxides, ferric blue, manganese violet, ultramarine blue and chromium hydrate. Preferably, the composition of the invention comprises at least titanium oxides and iron oxides.

The pigment may also be a pigment having a structure that may be, for example, of sericite/brown iron oxide/titanium dioxide/silica type. Such a pigment is sold, for example, under the reference Coverleaf NS or JS by the company Chemicals and Catalysts, and has a contrast ratio in the region of 30.

The colorant may also comprise a pigment having a structure which may be, for example, of the type such as silica microspheres containing iron oxide. An example of a pigment having this structure is the product sold by the company Miyoshi under the reference PC Ball PC-LL-100 P, this pigment being constituted of silica microspheres containing yellow iron oxide.

The term "nacres" should be understood as meaning coloured particles of any shape, which may or may not be iridescent, in particular produced by certain molluscs in their shell, or alternatively synthesized, and which have a colour effect via optical interference.

The nacres may be chosen from nacreous pigments such as bismuth oxychloride, titanium mica coated with an iron oxide, titanium mica coated with bismuth oxychloride, titanium mica coated with chromium oxide, titanium mica coated with an organic dye and also nacreous pigments based on bismuth oxychloride. They may also be mica particles at the surface of which are superimposed at least two successive layers of metal oxides and/or of organic colorants.

Examples of nacres that may also be mentioned include natural mica coated with titanium oxide, with iron oxide, with natural pigment or with bismuth oxychloride. Among the nacres available on the market, mention may be made of the nacres Timica, Flamenco and Duochrome (based on mica) sold by the company Engelhard, the Timiron nacres sold by the company Merck, the Prestige mica- based nacres sold by the company Eckart, and the Sunshine synthetic mica- based nacres sold by the company Sun Chemical.

The nacres may more particularly have a yellow, pink, red, bronze, orange, brown, gold and/or coppery colour or glint. As illustrations of nacres that may be used in the context of the present invention, mention may in particular be made of gold-colored nacres sold in particular by the company Engelhard under the name Brilliant gold 212G (Timica), Gold 222C (Cloisonne), Sparkle gold (Timica), Gold 4504 (Chromalite) and Monarch gold 233X (Cloisonne); the bronze nacres sold in particular by the company Merck under the names Bronze fine (17384) (Colorona) and Bronze (17353) (Colorona) and by the company Engelhard under the name Super bronze (Cloisonne); the orange nacres sold in particular by the company Engelhard under the names Orange 363C (Cloisonne) and Orange MCR 101 (Cosmica) and by the company Merck under the names Passion orange (Colorona) and Matte orange (17449) (Microna); the brown-tinted nacres sold in particular by the company Engelhard under the names Nu-antique copper 340XB (Cloisonne) and Brown CL4509 (Chromalite); the nacres with a copper glint sold in particular by the company Engelhard under the name Copper 340A (Timica); the nacres with a red glint sold especially by the company Merck under the name Sienna fine (17386) (Colorona); the nacres with a yellow glint sold in particular by the company Engelhard under the name Yellow (4502) (Chromalite); the red-tinted nacres with a golden glint sold in particular by the company Engelhard under the name Sunstone G012 (Gemtone); the pink nacres sold in particular by the company Engelhard under the name Tan opale G005 (Gemtone); the black nacres with a golden glint sold in particular by the company Engelhard under the name Nu antique bronze 240 AB (Timica); the blue nacres sold in particular by the company Merck under the name Matte blue (17433) (Microna); the white nacres with a silvery glint sold in particular by the company Merck under the name Xirona Silver; and the golden- green pinkish-orange nacres sold in particular by the company Merck under the name Indian summer (Xirona), and mixtures thereof.

The cosmetic composition according to the invention may also comprise water- soluble or liposoluble dyes. The liposoluble dyes are, for example, Sudan Red, DC Red 17, DC Green 6, β-carotene, soybean oil, Sudan Brown, DC Yellow 1 1 , DC Violet 2, DC Orange 5 and quinoline yellow. The water-soluble dyes are, for example, beetroot juice and caramel.

The dyes may be present in a proportion of from 0.001 % to 5% by weight, especially from 0.01 % to 3% by weight and in particular from 0.01 % to 1 % by weight relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition. The cosmetic composition according to the invention may also contain at least one material with a specific optical effect. This effect is different from a simple conventional tint effect, i.e. a unified and stabilized effect as produced by standard colorants, for instance monochromatic pigments. For the purposes of the invention, the term "stabilized" means lacking an effect of variability of the colour as a function of the angle of observation or alternatively in response to a temperature change.

For example, this material may be chosen from particles with a metallic glint, goniochromatic colouring agents, diffracting pigments, thermochromic agents, optical brighteners, and also fibres, in particular interference fibres. Needless to say, these various materials may be combined so as to afford the simultaneous manifestation of two effects, or even of a novel effect in accordance with the invention.

The particles with a metallic glint that may be used in the invention are chosen in particular from:

- particles of at least one metal and/or of at least one metal derivative,

- particles comprising a monomaterial or multimaterial organic or mineral substrate, at least partially coated with at least one layer with a metallic glint comprising at least one metal and/or at least one metal derivative, and

- mixtures of said particles.

Among the metals that may be present in said particles, mention may be made, for example, of Ag, Au, Cu, Al, Ni, Sn, Mg, Cr, Mo, Ti, Zr, Pt, Va, Rb, W, Zn, Ge, Te and Se, and mixtures or alloys thereof. Ag, Au, Cu, Al, Zn, Ni, Mo and Cr and mixtures or alloys thereof (for example bronzes and brasses) are preferred metals.

The term "metal derivatives" denotes compounds derived from metals, in particular oxides, fluorides, chlorides and sulfides.

By way of illustration of these particles, mention may be made of aluminium particles, such as those sold under the names Starbrite 1200 EAC® by the company Silberline and Metalure® by the company Eckart.

Mention may also be made of metal powders of copper or of alloy mixtures such as the references 2844 sold by the company Radium Bronze, metallic pigments, for instance aluminium or bronze, such as those sold under the names Rotosafe 700 from the company Eckart, the silica-coated aluminium particles sold under the name Visionaire Bright Silver from the company Eckart, and metal alloy particles, for instance the silica-coated bronze (alloy of copper and zinc) powders sold under the name Visionaire Bright Natural Gold from the company Eckart.

They may also be particles comprising a glass substrate, for instance those sold by the company Nippon Sheet Glass under the name Microglass Metashine®.

The goniochromatic colouring agent may be chosen, for example, from multilayer interference structures and liquid-crystal colouring agents. Examples of symmetrical multilayer interference structures that may be used in compositions prepared in accordance with the invention are, for example, the following structures: AI/SiO₂/AI/SiO₂/AI, pigments having this structure being sold by the company DuPont de Nemours; Cr/MgF₂/AI/MgF₂/Cr, pigments having this structure being sold under the name Chromaflair by the company Flex; MoS2/SiO2/AI/SiO2/MoS₂; Fe₂O3 SiO2 AI/SiO2 Fe₂O3, and

Fe2O3 SiO2 Fe2O3 SiO2 Fe2O3, pigments having these structures being sold under the name Sicopearl by the company BASF; MoS2 SiO2 mica-oxide SiO2 MoS2; Fe₂O3/SiO2/mica-oxide/SiO2/Fe₂O3; TiO₂/SiO₂/TiO₂ and TiO2 AI₃O2 TiO₂; SnO/TiO₂/SiO₂/TiO₂/SnO; Fe₂O3 SiO2 Fe₂O3; SnO/mica/TiO2/SiO₂/TiO₂/mica/SnO, pigments having these structures being sold under the name Xirona by the company Merck (Darmstadt). By way of example, these pigments may be the pigments of silica/titanium oxide/tin oxide structure sold under the name Xirona Magic by the company Merck, the pigments of silica/brown iron oxide structure sold under the name Xirona Indian Summer by the company Merck and the pigments of silica/titanium oxide/mica/tin oxide structure sold under the name Xirona Caribbean Blue by the company Merck. Mention may also be made of the Infinite Colors pigments from the company Shiseido. Depending on the thickness and the nature of the various coats, different effects are obtained. Thus, with the Fe2O3 SiO2 AI SiO2 Fe2O3 structure, the colour changes from greenish gold to reddish grey for S1O2 layers of 320 to 350 nm; from red to gold for S1O2 layers of 380 to 400 nm; from violet to green for S1O2 layers of 410 to 420 nm; from copper to red for S1O2 layers of 430 to 440 nm.

Examples of pigments with a polymeric multilayer structure that may be mentioned include those sold by the company 3M under the name Color Glitter. Examples of liquid-crystal goniochromatic particles that may be used include those sold by the company Chenix and also the product sold under the name Helicone® HC by the company Wacker.

Those skilled in the art will choose said active agent(s) according to the effect desired on the skin, hair, eyelashes, eyebrows or nails. The cosmetic compositions according to the invention have applications in a great number of treatments, in particular cosmetic treatments, of the skin, lips and hair, including the scalp.

Another subject of the present invention is constituted of the use of the compositions according to the invention as defined above in the manufacture of products for the cosmetic treatment of the skin, lips, nails, hair, eyelashes, eyebrows and/or scalp, in particular care products, anti-sun products and makeup products. The cosmetic compositions according to the invention can be used, for example, as makeup products.

ASSEMBLY According to another aspect, the invention also relates to a cosmetic assembly comprising:

i) a container delimiting one or more compartment(s), said container being closed by a closing member and optionally being unsealed; and

ii) a makeup and/or care composition in accordance with the invention placed inside said compartment(s).

The container will preferably be in the form of a jar. The closing member may be in the form of a lid comprising a cap mounted so as to be able to move by translation or by pivoting relative to the container housing said makeup and/or care composition(s).

The examples that follow serve to illustrate the invention without, however, being limiting in nature. In these examples, the amounts of the composition ingredients are given as weight percentages relative to the total weight of the composition.

EXEMPLES

AM^*: active material

Method of preparation:

The aqueous phase (water, glycerol and phenoxyethanol) is heated to 70°C, the scleroglucan gum is added thereto and the gel is made to swell. The phase is left at a temperature of 60°C. The oily phase (stearic acid and squalane) is heated to 70°C, the aerogel is added thereto at around 60°C and the dimethicone is dispersed while at the same time remaining at 60°C. The oily phase is poured into the aqueous phase. The phase with the sodium hydroxide are added, then the KSG 10 and the tospearls.

Procedure:

The emulsions 1 , 2 and 3 were prepared by means of a Howden B.V. Mondomix pressurized continuous whipping machine. After starting up and adjusting the parameters, the whipping of the formula is initiated. On the three formulae prepared, at To, a cream with a "chantilly" appearance, in which the bubbles developed after 24 h, was observed; this in the end gives a care foam suitable for facial care: of the moisturizing, treatment of imperfections, anti-wrinkle care product type. After final obtaining of the foam, the following are measured:

- the density at 20°C using a Gardener pycnometer

- the sensorial ity of each foam obtained

the stability after 2 months at ambient temperature, 4°C, 37°C and 45°C

The results show that foams 1 and 2 which do not contain silica aerogel particles are unstable upon storage and undergo phase separation overtime at low temperature, at ambient temperature and at high temperature.

Foam 3 of the invention containing silica aerogel particles remains stable after 2 months of storage at low temperature, at ambient temperature and at high temperature.

Claims

1. Composition in the form of a foam having a density of 0.3 to 0.8, characterized in that it is in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable medium

b) a fatty phase dispersed in the aqueous phase, comprising:

(ii) at least hydrophobic silica aerogel particles.

2. Composition according to Claim 1 , which can be obtained by means of a process comprising the following steps:

3. Composition according to Claim 2, for which a whipping machine, in particular a pressurized continuous whipping machine, is used for step b).

4. Composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 3, in which the hydrophobic aerogel particles have a specific surface area per unit of mass (SM) ranging from 200 to 1500 m²/g, preferably from 600 to 1200 m²/g and better still from 600 to 800 m²/g, a size, expressed as the volume mean diameter (D[0.5]), ranging from 1 to 30 μιτι and/or an oil-absorption capacity, measured at the wet point, ranging from 5 to 18 ml/g of particles, preferably from 6 to 15 ml/g and better still from 8 to 12 ml/g.

5. Composition according to one of Claims 1 to 4, characterized in that the hydrophobic silica aerogel particles have a size, expressed as the volume mean diameter, ranging from 5 to 25 μιτι, better still from 5 to 20 μιτι and even better still from 5 to 15 μιτι.

6. Composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 5, characterized in that the hydrophobic silica aerogel particles have a packed density p ranging from 0.04 g/cm³ to 0.10 g/cm³ and preferably from 0.05 g/cm³ to 0.08 g/cm³.

7. Composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 6, characterized in that the hydrophobic silica aerogel particles have a specific surface area per unit of volume SV ranging from 5 to 60 m²/cm³, preferably from 10 to 50 m²/cm³ and better still from 15 to 40 m²/cm³.

8. Composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 7, characterized in that the hydrophobic silica aerogel particles have an oil-absorption capacity, measured at the wet point, ranging from 5 to 18 ml/g, preferably from 6 to 15 ml/g and better still from 8 to 12 ml/g of particles.

9. Connposition according to any one of Clainns 1 to 8, characterized in that the hydrophobic silica aerogel particles are trimethylsiloxyl silica particles.

10. Connposition according to any one of Clainns 1 to 9, characterized in that the aqueous phase gelling agent or thickener is chosen from polysaccharide biopolymers and more particularly sclerotium gum.

11. Composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 10, in which the aqueous phase comprises at least one polyol, in particular a glycol and more particularly chosen from propylene glycols, polyethylene glycols, PEG/PPG/Polybutylene Glycol-8/5/3 Glycerin, glycerol, propylene glycol, pentylene glycol, butylene glycol, propanediol, ethylhexyl glycerol, caprylyl glycol or mixtures thereof.

12. Composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 1 1 , in which the fatty phase also comprises an additive chosen from pasty or solid fatty substances, non- emulsifying elastomeric organosiloxanes, and fatty phase thickeners or gelling agents.

13. Composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 12, in which the partially or totally neutralized fatty acid(s) is (are) chosen from C12-C22 and more preferentially C14-C22 fatty acids, and more particularly sodium stearate.

14. Composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 13, also comprising at least one cosmetic additive, for instance those which are chosen from demulcents, humectants, opacifiers, stabilizers, emollients, fragrances, preservatives, lipophilic active agents, hydrophilic active agents, polymers, fillers and colouring agents.

15. Process for preparing a composition as defined according to one of the preceding claims, comprising the following steps:

b) the emulsion is left to cool and, starting from 50°C, mechanical stirring is carried out, optionally in the presence of an inert gas (in particular chosen from air, nitrogen, carbon dioxide and oxygen), until the desired density is reached.

16. Process according to Claim 15, in which a whipping machine, in particular a pressurized continuous whipping machine, is used for step b).

17. Cosmetic process for caring for and/or making up human keratin materials, in particular the skin of the body or of the face, comprising at least the application, to the surface of the keratin material, of at least one composition as defined according to any one of the preceding claims.