WO2012153076A2

WO2012153076A2 - Cosmetic skin treatment method comprising two successive steps

Info

Publication number: WO2012153076A2
Application number: PCT/FR2012/051065
Authority: WO
Inventors: Jean-Noël THOREL
Original assignee: Thorel Jean-Noel
Priority date: 2011-05-12
Filing date: 2012-05-14
Publication date: 2012-11-15
Also published as: FR2975002A1; FR2975002B1; WO2012153076A3

Abstract

The invention relates to a method for the cosmetic treatment of the skin and/or mucous membranes, consisting in successively applying two cosmetic compositions to the skin and/or mucous membranes, namely: a first composition containing a single active ingredient that can correct a skin dysfunction, optionally in the presence of a pro-penetrator system; and, immediately following the application of the first composition, a second composition which, depending on skin type, has a nourishing and/or hydrating and/or protective action and/or enhances complexion radiance and/or elasticity and/or matt appearance.

Description

PROCESS FOR COSMETIC TREATMENT OF SKIN IN TWO SUCCESSIVE STEPS

The subject of the invention is a process for cosmetic treatment of the skin and / or mucous membranes in two successive stages.

Current cosmetic compositions combine active and excipients. The active ingredients are chosen for their effect on the skin and exert a biomechanical, biophysical, physiological or biological activity to produce this effect. This is for example the anti wrinkle effect depigmenting etc .... The assets can be of various origins. It can be synthetic chemical molecules or natural molecules that, for the most part, are foreign to the skin. The role of the excipients is to enable the formulation of the active ingredients, ie to incorporate them into a galenic formula that can be applied to the skin or the mucous membranes. It is for example diluents, dispersants etc .... adapted to form the required topical form such as for example cream, gel, oil, lotion etc. The excipients are also chemical molecules, mostly from the chemical industry. They are generally of synthetic origin, more rarely of natural origin, and most of the time, different from the constituents of the skin. The Applicant has found that the market offers cosmetic compositions that are increasingly expensive because of the large number of constituents they contain. In addition, and most importantly, they contain a mix of assets to address a variety of issues, while the consumer often tries to address a specific problem. If one refers for example to the anti-aging range, the compositions available generally contain a depigmenting agent for treating senescence spots and an anti-wrinkle agent. This therefore unnecessarily leads to overconsumption of assets without counting the cost of the composition which could be less without the presence of this asset. Moreover, the current cosmetic compositions contain, in addition to the active agents and formulation excipients, agents whose effect lies in an improvement of the surface state of the skin. It may be for example moisturizing agent, matifying etc ... Once again, some of these agents, although present, may be useless for the consumer, whose skin would not need such an effect . On the contrary, certain compositions contain the desired active agent but not the agent making it possible to improve the surface state of the skin according to its nature. The consumer is thus constrained by the choice of the asset without any latitude on the choice of the agent improving the surface condition imposed on it by the composition of the final product. The only alternative remains to acquire a second product that is just as complex, which increases the cost accordingly. Another disadvantage is also that of the chemical interaction that can occur between all the constituents. This interaction can be the source of a decrease in activity of active agents and agents acting on the surface condition of the skin. It can also cause problems of stability of the composition. The same applies to excipients. Plus their number is high and the negative interactions are strong.

Furthermore, the cosmetic compositions are formulated so as to penetrate the assets through the barrier formed by the stratum corneum so that they exert their action in the epidermis or the dermis. But not all assets need to penetrate the skin to act. Some of them have indeed a surface action, as is the case for example of fruit acids. In addition, the assets intended to penetrate the skin can exert a more or less deep action. It is obvious that the plurality of assets in a cosmetic composition does not make it possible to guarantee that the different assets will fully perform their function in the right place.

The Applicant has found a solution to this complex problem by modifying the conventional approach of cosmetics at several levels:

first of all, to propose cosmetic compositions comprising only an active agent responding to a specific problem of the consumer,

formulate this asset in an environment allowing it to act where the skin needs it,

formulate the active as simply as possible with a minimum of excipients so as to avoid the maximum of chemical interactions between the constituents, excluding from the composition agents having an effect on the surface of the skin a nutritive activity and / or moisturizing and / or protecting and / or enhancing the radiance of the complexion and / or elasticity and / or dullness,

applying to the skin a second product having, depending on the nature of the skin, an action having an effect on the surface of the skin, namely a nutritive and / or moisturizing and / or protective activity and / or enhancing the radiance complexion and / or elasticity and / or dullness,

- preferably use a second composition containing only biodermal constituents (not counting the water which may itself be biodermic).

The document US2008 / 022570A1 describes a solar cosmetic treatment consisting of cleaning the skin by peeling and then applying to the skin a first composition containing several active ingredients. After 2 to 4 weeks of treatment, during intense exposure, the treatment is continued by applying a second composition additionally containing UV filters. Finally, a composition after solar is applied, the formulation of which corresponds substantially to that of the first product. This treatment improves the smoothness of the skin as well as helps maintain the tan over a long period of time. US 2010 / 0173957A1 describes a method for limiting the side effects of topical treatments with retinoic acid. The method is to precede the application of retinoic acid by the application of a nicotinic acid derivative. The first step is directly related to the nature of retinoic acid.

US2007 / 0190190A1 discloses a skin treatment method of preparing the skin to limit the irritating effects caused by the subsequent application of the active-containing composition, in practice benzoyl peroxide used for the treatment of the skin. acne.

US6139850 describes a method of the same type as previously consisting, prior to the application of an irritating composition, to apply an anti-irritant composition comprising strontium. More specifically, the subject of the invention is a process for cosmetic treatment of the skin or mucous membranes consisting in applying successively to said skin or mucous membranes, two cosmetic compositions, respectively:

a first composition containing at least one active agent, advantageously a single active agent capable of correcting a cutaneous dysfunction, optionally in the presence of a propenetrating system, the composition being in particular devoid of agents having a nutritive and / or moisturizing and / or protective activity and / or reinforcing the radiance of the complexion and / or the elasticity and / or the dullness of the skin,

immediately after application of the first composition, a second composition having, depending on the nature of the skin, a nutritive and / or moisturizing and / or protective activity and / or enhancing the radiance of the complexion and / or the elasticity and / or or dullness.

The Applicant has found that by separating the desired effects (active on one side, agents having an effect on the skin surface of the other) in the form of two compositions applied successively:

the penetration of the active was improved, compared to the application of a single composition containing active agents and agents acting on the surface of the skin, the effectiveness of the agent acting on the surface was improved. The method of the invention also allows the consumer to benefit from optimal latitude on the choice of his products without any constraints and in a streamlined manner. By this means, he can indeed exactly choose the asset and the agent improving the surface condition of his skin, without using other compounds that would be useless in relation to his skin profile. In addition, the active formulated at the optimal dose, stably, in the presence of only formulation excipients and optionally a propenetrating system, allows to act in a targeted manner with respect to a targeted dysfunction. In the remainder of the description, the expression "cutaneous dysfunction" denotes, in particular, the first wrinkles and fine lines, the expression wrinkles, the wrinkles installed, the loss of firmness, the shine (excess of sebum), the points black, irregular skin texture, enlarged pores, pimples, acne, pigment spots, hyperpigmentation, irritation, tingling, warming, redness, rosacea, dryness (tugging, discomfort, squasms .. .), extreme dryness (xerosis, atopy, scab, eczema ...), calluses, rough skin, cracks, lesions (bruises, scars, edema ...).

According to the invention, the first composition advantageously contains a single active agent.

The asset is advantageously:

either a pure molecule obtained by synthesis or by biotechnology,

a pure molecule obtained by purification from a plant,

a total plant extract, that is to say a mixture of molecules of interest extracted from a plant,

a plant extract titrated to a specific molecule.

In order to act in the most efficient manner possible, the active ingredient is formulated in the cosmetic composition in the purest possible manner, that is to say in the presence of a number of excipients or vehicles the most limited possible.

The choice of excipients will be made according to the zone in which the active ingredient is supposed to act, that is to say on the surface of the skin, or in the skin at the level of the epidermis or dermis. If the action of the active ingredient is effective in the skin, then the cosmetic composition further contains a propenetrating system ensuring the penetration of the active through the skin. The choice of penetration system will depend on the chemical nature of the asset

In an advantageous embodiment, the propenetrating system contains or advantageously consists of:

ethanol representing between 1 and 10%, advantageously between 2 and 5% by weight of the composition,

of propanediol representing between 1 and 20%, advantageously between 5 and 10% by weight of the composition.

The penetrating system may also contain:

urea representing between 1 and 4% by weight of the composition,

lactic acid or a salt thereof representing between 0.5 and 1.5% by weight of the composition. In a preferred embodiment, the composition contains, in addition to the active agent, a propenetrating system containing or consisting of:

ethanol representing between 2 and 5% by weight of the composition,

propanediol representing between 5 and 10% by weight of the composition,

urea advantageously representing between 1 and 3% by weight of the composition,

lactic acid or a salt thereof advantageously representing between 0.5 and 1% by weight of the composition. If, on the other hand, the action of the active agent occurs on the surface of the skin, then the first cosmetic composition is devoid of a propenetrating agent.

The choice of excipients is also based on the stability of the asset. It follows that the first cosmetic composition may contain a stabilizing agent advantageously coupled to a gelling agent.

As already stated, one of the objectives is to incorporate in the first galenic composition as few ingredients as possible while having a composition as pure as possible in terms of active ingredients, and applicable to the skin.

The first composition of the invention may also contain, depending on the case:

a fatty phase representing between 2 and 20% by weight, preferably between 3 and 10% by weight of the composition, and / or

a gelling agent representing between 0.1 and 2%, preferably between 0.1 and 1% by weight of the composition.

In practice, the active ingredient is from 0.001% to 20% by weight of the composition, preferably from 0.5% to 10%. In order to allow precise administration of the active ingredient, the first composition of the invention is advantageously dispensed by means of a dropper or a pump bottle. In this hypothesis, the composition has a viscosity of between 250 and 2000, depending on the dosage form, advantageously 400 and 850 cps. (The viscosity measurement is carried out at 25 ° C. on a BROOKFIELD DV-II + PRO viscometer, with a mobile size 3 rotating at a speed of 60 rpm).

Advantageously, the composition is in the form of an emulsion or a gel. "Emulsion" denotes an O / W emulsion whose particle size is greater than 1 micrometer. In this form of administration, the composition contains in practice at least 60%, advantageously at least 70% by weight of water.

The first composition, apart from the sole active ingredient and the optional propenetrating system advantageously contains only formulation excipients making it possible to obtain in particular a gel or an emulsion. It contains no additional constituent that may have an action on the skin, in particular a nutritive and / or moisturizing and / or protective activity and / or enhancing the radiance of the complexion and / or the elasticity and / or the dullness of the skin. the skin.

The second composition has, as already stated for purpose, depending on the nature of the skin, to improve its surface state by a nutritive and / or moisturizing and / or protective action and / or enhancing the radiance of the complexion and / or or elasticity and / or dullness. By the expression "skin nature", it is especially possible to distinguish between oily, mixed, normal, dehydrated, dry and very dry skin, sensitive or not.

The second composition is a particularly nourishing and / or moisturizing and / or protective composition and / or enhancing the radiance of the complexion and / or the elasticity and / or the dullness of the skin.

To do this, the second composition advantageously contains, apart from water, biodermic constituents chosen from:

the compounds identical to those contained in the skin, these compounds being natural or of synthetic origin,

the compounds mimicking the action of the natural compounds of the skin,

skin assimilable compounds such as nutrients,

the compounds do not interact with the skin but are useful for the skin, such as, for example, mineral sunscreens.

In an advantageous embodiment, the second composition contains, including water, at least 98% by weight of biodermal constituents.

In all cases, the second cosmetic composition is monophasic or multiphase and can therefore be in the form of a cream, emulsion, lotion, serum, gel. It is a stable galenic composition. It therefore means that the biodermal constituents replace the commonly used synthetic excipients, namely, for example emulsifier, thickener, emollient, etc. Their mixture, representing, preferably water, preferably at least 98%, % by weight of the second composition leads to a pharmaceutical composition of the type mentioned previously, stable. The water used in the compositions of the invention may be demineralized or osmosis water, thermal water or water which has been subjected to a physical treatment and whose composition has been progressively enriched with mineral salts, said water being characterized by bioelectronic parameters (pH, conductivity, rH).

According to the invention, the second composition is advantageously cytocompatible with the skin. As already stated, the biodermal constituents may be chosen from the constitutive molecules of the epidermis and the dermis. For example, we will remember:

various lipids, fluids or concretes, such as oleic acid, essential fatty acids, mono-, di- and tri-glycerides, linoleic acid, squalene, stearic acid, glycerol monostearate,

concrete lipids, such as stearic acid, cholesterol, ceramides, cholesterol-ester or sulphate, saturated diglycerides,

nucleic acids,

mucopolysaccarides, such as hyaluronic acid,

collagens.

In a particular embodiment, the subject of the invention is a method for determining a personalized cosmetic treatment of the skin or mucous membranes according to which:

informing at least a first parameter such as age, sex, skin type, skin color and a second parameter relating to at least one skin dysfunction observed in a questionnaire in the form of a web page or the like ,

a first cosmetic composition is selected from the compositions proposed from a database of first compositions, said first composition containing a single active agent capable of correcting the cutaneous dysfunction indicated, and / or

selecting a second composition among the compositions proposed from a database of second compositions, said composition being formulated according to the first parameter, in particular the nature of the skin.

In other words, the fact of informing the personal parameters of the consumer allows:

with regard to skin dysfunction, selecting in a composition list, the composition that is best adapted to correct said dysfunction, to improve the surface condition of the skin, to select from a composition list, the most suitable composition according to the age, sex, skin nature, and color of the skin. skin. This function is provided by means of a particularly nutritive and / or moisturizing and / or protective action and / or an action on the radiance of the complexion and / or the elasticity and / or the dullness of the skin. In practice, the degree of action of the second composition depends essentially on the type of skin of the consumer.

By the expression "skin nature", it is especially possible to distinguish between oily, mixed, normal, dehydrated, dry and very dry skin, sensitive or not.

Among the skin dysfunctions, we list, for example, the first wrinkles and fine lines, expression wrinkles, wrinkles installed, loss of firmness, shine (excess of sebum), blackheads, uneven skin texture, dilated pores, pimples, acne, pigment spots, hyperpigmentation, irritations, tingling, overheating, redness, rosacea, dryness (tugging, discomfort, squasms ...), extreme dryness (xerosis, atopy, scab, eczema ...), calluses, rough skin, cracks, lesions (blues, scars, edema ...). The method of the invention therefore makes it possible to select the best cosmetic treatment according to a real cutaneous dysfunction and personal parameters. The treatment is thus optimized.

According to the invention, the previously described method can be implemented by a computer under the control of a program that can be executed by said computer.

The invention therefore also relates to a computer program implementing the method previously described and comprising:

a questionnaire in the form of a web page or the like comprising a plurality of fields relating to at least one first parameter such as age, sex, skin type, skin color and / or at least a second parameter relating to at least one observed dermal dysfunction, at least one marker being assigned to each field of the form,

a database of first compositions containing a single active agent capable of correcting the cutaneous dysfunction indicated, at least one marker being attributed to each composition, a database of second compositions having, depending on the nature of the skin, a nutritive and / or moisturizing and / or protective activity and / or enhancing the radiance of the complexion and / or elasticity and / or dullness, at least a marker being assigned to each composition,

means for selecting at least one field of the form and,

means for generating a new web page comprising information relating to the first composition and / or the second composition from the markers associated with the selected questionnaire fields. The invention and the advantages thereof will be apparent from the following examples.

Figure 1 is a graph showing the improvement of caffeine penetration through the skin when administered in two stages according to the invention.

FIGS. 2a to 2d are histological sections of frozen skin explant models after application of 4 distinct formulations of caffeine C1 (Fig. 2a), C2 (Fig. 2b), C3 + C3 '(Fig. 2c), C4 (Fig. 2d).

Figure 3 is a screenshot of a questionnaire implemented in a method for determining a personalized facial cosmetic treatment. Example 1: Illustration of the effectiveness of a two-stage treatment

The purpose of this example is to compare the diffusion of 2% caffeine in 4 different environments through human skin, on Franz cells. Condition No. l (Cl): Non-vectorized 2% solubilized caffeine

Condition N2 (C2) Caffeine 2% in a conventional O / W emulsion and containing two humectants,

Condition # 3 (C3): 2% Caffeine in a Pro-Penetrating Vector

Condition N ° 4 (C4): 2 steps A + B> Caffeine 2% in the pro-penetrating vector (C3) + emulsion containing a humectant (C2)

Condition # 5 (C5): Caffeine 2% in emulsion C2 containing the pro-penetrating vector identical to C3

The C2 emulsion has a composition whose formulation depends on the nature of the skin. In this case, it contains a humectant to restore the barrier function of the sample from dehydrated skin. a / measurement of cutaneous absorption of caffeine

Method used The measurement of cutaneous absorption of caffeine is carried out ex vivo using Franz cells. All the experimental conditions were defined using OECD guidelines. The explants used are from frozen human skin of the same donor. The explants were placed on passive diffusion Franz cells and the products were applied semi occlusively. Before applying the products to be evaluated, the skin integrity of each cell is verified by the measurement of the PIE.

For each cell a defined amount of Cl to C5 products is deposited on the surface of the skin using a positive displacement pipette. Each product is deposited on 3 cells of Franz distributed randomly on 4 trays. The recipient fluid contains physiological saline maintained at 32.5 ° C by a thermostatic circuit.

The tested products For each formula tested, the good solubilization of the caffeine was controlled and a dosage of its concentration in the formulas Cl, C2, C3 and C5 was carried out before the application of the products on the explants. All formulas are adjusted to pH 7

Composition Tables of Formulas Cl, C2, C3 Including 2% Caffeine (Percent by Weight)

(Cl): Non-vectorized 2% solubilized caffeine

Cl Caffeine 2%

0.5% xanthan gum

Preservatives (Leuconostoc / Radish Root Ferment Filtrate + 1% Potassium sorbate - Sodium benzoate)

NaOH 0.002%

Water qs C2 caffeine 2% in a conventional O / W emulsion containing two humectants

C2 Caffeine 2%

Humectants 9% (glycerin + xylitol)

Xanthan gum 1%

Emulsifiers 2,5%

(cetearyl alcohol / coconut glucoside / cetearyl glucoside + potassium

cetyl phosphate)

Mineral oil 5%

Water qs

(C3): 2% caffeine in a pro-penetrating vector

C3 Caffeine 2%

0.5% xanthan gum

Propanediol 10%

Potassium phosphate 0.75%

Disodium phosphate 2.61%

Urea 2%

Ethanol 5%

Sodium lactate 1%

Water qs (C5): Caffeine 2% in emulsion C2 containing the pro-penetrating vector identical to C3

Determination of caffeine

The different samples are stored in tubes identified at -20 ° C. The caffeine is then assayed in the samples by HPLC.

Results analysis

From the amounts of caffeine dosed remaining on the surface of the skin, are deducted the quantities having crossed the stratum corneum. The results are expressed as a percentage of the dose of caffeine applied to each cell and correspond to the average of the results obtained on 3 explants treated under the same conditions. As shown in FIG. 1, the penetration rate of caffeine obtained with composition C5 is greater than that obtained with composition C2, which proves the propenetrating effect of the ethanol / propanediol system at the dose claimed.

The composition C3 shows that the propenetrating system in the absence of any excipient other than a preservative alone improves the penetration of the active agent with respect to the emulsion C2. The comparison of the conditions C4 and C5 shows that the fact of adding an additional treatment step with a composition formulated according to the nature of the skin makes it possible to improve the penetration of the active ingredient b / Tolerance of the propenetrating system of the invention vis-à-vis the skin

An explant of each series is preserved for the realization of histological sections allowing to control the cutaneous integrity. After fixation, paraffin impregnation, the 5μιη sections are made and stained with a Masson trichrome stain.

Interpretation of the cuts:

When the stratum corneum (SC) is well laminated, it means that it is properly hydrated. The delipidation of the skin as well as the drought diminishes this aspect and the SC becomes more compact. The aggression of the skin by irritating products or UV causes the keratinization of SC. It becomes more compact and more impervious.

Figure 2a corresponds to the histological section of the explant treated with the composition Cl.

Figure 2b corresponds to the histological section of the explant treated with the composition C3.

Figure 2c corresponds to the histological section of the explant treated with the composition C4: C3 + C2 (two-stage treatment).

Figure 2d corresponds to the histological section of the explant treated with the composition C5

The results are grouped in the following table

(-) little, slightly; (+) enough, moderately; (++) enough, clearly, quite well, well, clearly

C3 to C5 treatments do not alter the qualities of the stratum corneum; C4 has a beneficial effect greater than C5 (laminated character, less keratinized). Example 2: Illustration of a method for determining a personalized cosmetic treatment of the face

FIG. 3 is a screenshot of a questionnaire used in a method for determining a personalized cosmetic facial treatment. This questionnaire contains a first series of fields related to sex, age, nature of skin, skin color in particular grouped in the frame (1). The questionnaire contains a second series of fields grouped in the frame (2) related to a skin dysfunction such as, for example, wrinkles, buttons etc. It finally contains a third frame (3) in which there is a single field for selecting the type of composition, that is to say first composition and / or second composition.

Each field is assigned a marker that can be a letter, a number, a word, etc. or a combination of these elements. In the series of fields 1, we assign a marker XI (man), X2 (woman) etc. up to Xi A in the series of field 2, we attribute a marker Yl (first lines and wrinkles), Y2 (expression lines ) ... until Yj.

A first database is then constituted consisting of a list of first compositions (Al to An) containing a single active by attributing to each composition at least one marker Y 1, Y 2 ..... up to Yj.

At the same time, a second database consisting of a list of second composition Bl ... Bm) containing ingredients that depend on the nature of the skin is formed. . Each second composition is assigned at least one of XI .... to Xi.

Each composition A1, A2 B1, B2 is associated with one or more markers

X or Y. For example:

The composition Al is associated with the markers Y2, Y10 and Y3.

With the composition A2 are associated the markers Y8, Yl

Etc ...

With the composition B1 are associated the markers X4, X8, X3

Composition B2 is associated with X2 markers.

Etc ...

When the user fills the fields of lists 1 and 2; a new page is generated on which appears all the products A and B used to treat the skin dysfunction observed. When the user has selected the field 3, and filled in the fields of the lists 1 and 2, a new page is generated which shows all the products A and B used to treat the observed skin dysfunction (s) and reinforce the barrier function. skin according to the fields selected in list 1.

When the user has not selected the field 3, and that he has filled in the fields of the lists 1 and 2, a new page is generated which shows all the products A used to treat the observed skin dysfunction (s). .

In another particular embodiment, the first database consists of a list of first compositions (Al to An) containing a single active by attributing to each composition at least one marker Y 1, Y 2 ..... up to 'to Yj and / or X 1 .... to Xi.

Claims

1 / Cosmetic treatment method of the skin and / or mucous membranes consisting of applying successively to said skin and / or mucous membranes two cosmetic compositions, respectively:

a first composition containing a single active agent capable of correcting a cutaneous dysfunction, possibly in the presence of a propenetrating system,

21 Treatment method according to claim 1, characterized in that the asset is:

either a pure molecule obtained by synthesis or by biotechnology,

a pure molecule obtained by purification from a plant,

a total plant extract,

a plant extract titrated to a specific molecule.

3 / A method of treatment according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the propenetrating system contains:

ethanol representing between 1 and 10%, advantageously between 2 and 5% by weight of the first composition,

propanediol representing between 1 and 20%, advantageously between 5 and 10% by weight of the first composition.

4 / A method of treatment according to claim 3, characterized in that the propenetrating system further contains:

urea representing between 1 and 4% by weight of the composition,

lactic acid or a salt thereof representing between 0.5 and 1.5% by weight of the composition.

5 / A method of treatment according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the first composition further contains only formulation excipients. 6 / A method according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the second composition contains, outside the water:

compounds identical to those contained in the skin, these compounds being natural or of synthetic origin,

compounds that mimic the action of the natural compounds of the skin,

compounds assimilable by the skin,

compounds that do not interact with the skin but are useful for the skin.

Method according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the second composition contains, including water, at least 98% by weight:

of compounds identical to those contained in the skin, these compounds being natural or of synthetic origin,

compounds mimicking the action of natural compounds of the skin,

of assimilable compounds through the skin,

- compounds that do not interact with the skin but are useful for the skin.

8 / A method according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the second composition is stable, monophasic or multiphasic and is advantageously in the form of an emulsion, gel.

Method according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the cutaneous dysfunction is chosen from the group comprising the first wrinkles and fine lines, expression wrinkles, wrinkles installed, loss of firmness, shine (excess of sebum ), blackheads, irregular skin texture, enlarged pores, pimples, acne, pigment spots, hyperpigmentation, irritations, tingling, overheating, redness, rosacea, dryness (tugging, discomfort , squasms ...), extreme drought (xerosis,, scab, ...), calluses, rough skin, chapped skin, lesions (blues, scars, edema ...). 10 / A method for determining a personalized cosmetic treatment of the skin and / or mucous membranes according to which:

informing at least a first parameter such as age, sex, skin type, skin color and / or a second parameter relating to at least one skin dysfunction observed in a questionnaire in the form of a web page or similar,

a second composition is selected from the compositions proposed from a database of second compositions, said composition being formulated according to the nature of the skin.

11 / A method according to claim 10, characterized in that the cutaneous dysfunction is selected from the group comprising the first wrinkles and fine lines, expression lines, wrinkles installed, loss of firmness, shine (excess of sebum), blackheads, irregular skin texture, enlarged pores, pimples, acne, pigment spots, hyperpigmentation, irritations, tingling, overheating, redness, rosacea, dryness (tugging, discomfort, squasms ...), extreme dryness (xerosis, scab, ...), calluses, rough skin, cracks, lesions (bruises, scars, edema ...).

12 / computer program implementing the method according to one of claims 10 or 11 and comprising:

a questionnaire in the form of a web page or the like comprising a plurality of fields relating to at least a first parameter such as age, gender, skin type, skin color and / or at least a second parameter relating to at least one observed dermal dysfunction, at least one marker being assigned to each field of the form,

a database of first compositions containing a single active agent capable of correcting the cutaneous dysfunction indicated, at least one marker being attributed to each composition,

a database of second compositions having, depending on the nature of the skin, a nutritive and / or moisturizing and / or protective activity and / or enhancing the radiance of the complexion and / or elasticity and / or dullness, at least a marker being assigned to each composition,

means for selecting at least one field of the form and,

means for generating a new web page comprising information relating to the first composition and / or the second composition from the markers associated with the selected questionnaire fields.