WO2012149617A1

WO2012149617A1 - Detergent cosmetic compositions comprising four surfactants, a cationic polymer and a silicone, and use thereof

Info

Publication number: WO2012149617A1
Application number: PCT/BR2011/000141
Authority: WO
Inventors: Diego ALVES
Original assignee: L'oreal S.A.
Priority date: 2011-05-04
Filing date: 2011-05-04
Publication date: 2012-11-08

Abstract

The invention relates to novel detergent compositions comprising: (A) one or more anionic surfactants chosen from ethoxylated alkyl sulfates, the corresponding acids, and mixtures thereof, and (B) one or more anionic surfactants other than the surfactant(s) (A), (C) one or more amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants, (D) one or more alkylpolyglycoside nonionic surfactants, (E) one or more non-silicone cationic polymers preferably with a cationic charge density of less than 4 meq./g and (F) one or more silicones, the ethoxylated alkyl sulfate anionic surfactant/anionic surfactant (B) weight ratio ranging from 0.5 to 1. These combinations make it possible to improve the deposition of silicone on keratin materials and also the cosmetic properties. Use for cleansing and caring for the hair or the skin.

Description

"DETERGENT COSMETIC COMPOSITIONS COMPRISING FOUR SURFACTANTS, A CATIONIC POLYMER AND A SILICONE, AND USE THEREOF"

The present invention relates to novel detergent cosmetic compositions for keratin materials, in particular human keratin fibres such as the hair, comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable aqueous support, at least one anionic surfactant, at least one ethoxylated alkyl sulfate anionic surfactant other than the preceding one, at least one amphoteric surfactant and at least one nonionic surfactant of alkylpolyglycoside type, at least one non-silicone cationic polymer and at least one silicone. The invention also relates to the use of the said compositions in the abovementioned cosmetic application.

It is well known that hair is sensitized or embrittled to varying degrees by the action of atmospheric agents and especially light, water and moisture, and also repeated mechanical or chemical treatments such as brushing, combing, washing, bleaching, permanent-waving, relaxing and/or dyeing.

Attack due to chemical and mechanical treatments has consequences especially on the qualities of the keratin fibre and may lead to difficult disentangling at the time of washing the hair, on dry hair and/or wet hair, and also to degradation of the surface properties of the fibres, which become non-smooth and irregular at the surface, more particularly when the hair is dry.

Many publications moreover disclose that natural light destroys certain amino acids of the hair. These attacking factors impair the hair fibre and reduce its mechanical properties such as the tensile strength, the breaking load and the elasticity, or its resistance to swelling in an aqueous medium. The hair is dull, coarse and brittle. The hair is difficult to disentangle and to style.

It is also known especially that light and washing agents have a tendency to attack the natural colour of hair and also the artificial colour of dyed hair. The colour of the hair gradually fades or turns towards unaesthetic or undesirable shades.

Substances for protecting the hair against the degradation caused by atmospheric attacking factors, such as light, heat and treatments, have been known for many years in the cosmetics industry. In particular, products that improve the cosmetic properties (especially the disentangling, the softness, the smoothness, the gloss, etc.) and products that protect the colour of naturally coloured or artificially dyed keratin fibres and that preserve or reinforce the intrinsic mechanical properties of keratin fibres (the tensile strength, the breaking load and the elasticity, or their resistance to swelling in an aqueous medium) are sought.

Moreover, the skin may also be impaired to varying degrees by the action of atmospheric agents and also by the repeated action of detergents. Skin tissue may be burned, and the skin becomes dry and coarse and loses its natural elasticity. The onset of dandruff, excess seborrhoea or, conversely, excess dryness may then be observed.

In the field of "rinse-out" cosmetic compositions, such as shampoos, shower gels, facial makeup removers or shaving foams, detergent compositions comprising agents that are beneficial to the hair or the skin are known. These beneficial ingredients are generally introduced into the composition to facilitate the disentangling of the hair, to improve the feel qualities of the keratin fibre or of the skin, or alternatively to promote their moisturization. Cationic polymers, silicones and emollients such as polyols constitute, in this context, the ingredients most commonly used.

To obtain the expected beneficial effect, it is necessary to introduce an amount of beneficial agent into the rinse-out composition that is much higher than the amount needed to obtain the effect. For rinse-out detergent compositions, the majority of the beneficial agent is in point of fact removed during the rinsing of the composition, and the effective part of the agent contained in the composition is consequently very low.

Moreover, repeated applications of compositions of the prior art often have the effect of giving the hair an unpleasant feel, loss of volume and liveliness of the hair, and occasionally loss of sheen.

Moreover, a persistent greasy feel on the skin is obtained with such compositions.

Thus, at the present time, no rinse-out detergent compositions exist that can substantially increase the amount of beneficial agent vectorized after rinsing. Such compositions would make it possible to use much less beneficial agent to afford the same level of beneficial effect.

The Applicant has discovered, surprisingly, that by using, in a cosmetically acceptable medium, at least one combination of four surfactants and of a cationic polymer in combination with at least one water-insoluble silicone, the drawbacks mentioned above can be overcome.

In particular, it is possible to increase the deposition of silicone and thereby to increase the efficacy of the said silicone or to reduce the amount of the said agent used.

One subject of the invention is thus a detergent cosmetic composition, characterized in that it comprises:

(A) one or more anionic surfactants chosen from ethoxylated alkyl sulfates, the corresponding acids, and mixtures thereof, and

(B) one or more anionic surfactants other than the surfactant(s) (A), (C) one or more amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants,

(D) one or more alkylpolyglycoside nonionic surfactants,

(E) one or more non-silicone cationic polymers preferably with a cationic charge density of less than 4 meq./g and

(F) one or more silicones,

the ethoxylated alkyl sulfate anionic surfactant/anionic surfactant (B) weight ratio ranging from 0.5 to 1.

In particular, it has been found that by using a cosmetic composition as defined above, it spreads easily over the hair and the scalp, generating an abundant and soft foam that is easy to remove with water leaving the hair clean, shiny, feeling and looking smooth, and easy to disentangle. The composition according to the invention shows good stability on storage.

Without wishing to limit the present invention to any theory, there would appear to be, during rinsing, particular interactions and/or affinities between the combination of surfactants in accordance with the invention, the cationic polymer and the hair, which promote uniform, substantial and long-lasting deposition of the silicone and of the cationic polymer onto the surface of the said hair, this qualitative and quantitative deposition probably being one of the reasons for the improvement observed as regards the final properties, in particular the ease of styling, the disentangling, the smoothness, the softness and the sheen of treated hair when a conditioning agent is used.

All these discoveries form the basis of the present invention.

A subject of the invention is also the use of at least one composition comprising:

(B) one or more anionic surfactants other than the surfactant(s) (A),

(C) one or more amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants,

(D) one or more alkylpolyglycoside nonionic surfactants,

(F) one or more silicones,

the ethoxylated alkyl sulfate anionic surfactant/anionic surfactant (B) weight ratio ranging from 0.5 to 1 , to improve the deposition and/or fixing of the silicone(s) to the keratin materials and/or to increase the efficacy of the silicone(s) on the keratin materials. A subject of the invention is also the cosmetic use of the above compositions for cleansing and/or removing makeup from and/or conditioning keratin materials such as the hair and the skin.

The various subjects of the invention will now be detailed. All the meanings and definitions of the compounds used in the present invention given below are valid for all of the subjects of the invention.

According to the invention, the term "at least one" is equivalent to "one or more".

(A) Ethoxylated sulfate anionic surfactant(s):

The composition according to the invention comprises at least one first anionic surfactant (A) chosen from ethoxylated alkyl sulfates, the corresponding acids, and mixtures thereof.

The ethoxylated alkyl sulfate(s) used in the composition according to the invention may preferably be chosen from ethoxylated (C6-C24)alkyl sulfates, in particular from ethoxylated (C8-C20)alkyl sulfates and better still ethoxylated (C12- 14)alkyl sulfates, such as ethoxylated lauryl sulfate.

The alkyl group of these compounds may be linear or branched. Preferably, the alkyl group is linear.

The number of ethylene oxide groups per ethoxylated alkyl sulfate molecule preferably ranges from 1 to 50, better still from 1 to 10 and even better still from 1 to 5. Even more preferentially, this number ranges from 2 to 3.

The constituent salt(s) of the ethoxylated alkyl sulfate may be chosen from alkali metal salts such as the sodium salt, ammonium salts, amine salts and in particular amino alcohol salts, and alkaline-earth metal salts such as the magnesium salt.

Examples of amino alcohol salts that may especially be mentioned include monoethanolamine, diethanolamine and triethanolamine salts, monoisopropanolamine, diisopropanolamine or triisopropanolamine salts, 2-amino-2-methyl-1-propanol salts, 2- amino-2-methyl-1 ,3-propanediol salts and tris(hydroxymethyl)aminomethane salts.

Alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal salts, and in particular sodium or magnesium salts, are preferably used.

Among all these anionic surfactants (A) mentioned, it is preferred to use ethoxylated sodium lauryl sulfate comprising from 2 to 3 mol of ethylene oxide.

The composition according to the invention preferably comprises from 0.5% to 30% by weight, in particular from 1% to 20% by weight, better still from 2% to 10%, even better still from 3% to 8% and most preferentially from 3% to 6% by weight of anionic surfactant(s) (A) relative to the total weight of the composition.

The composition according to the invention comprises at least one second anionic surfactant (B) other than the abovementioned anionic surfactant(s) (A).

The term "anionic surfactant" means a surfactant comprising, as ionic or ionizable groups, only anionic groups. These anionic groups are preferably chosen from the groups C02H, CO2-, S03H, S03-, OS03H, OS03-, 02P02H, 02P02H- and 02P022-.

The anionic surfactant(s) (B) may be chosen from the anionic surfactants usually used in cosmetics, other than ethoxylated alkyl sulfates and the corresponding acid forms thereof.

As examples of anionic surfactants (B) that may be used in the composition according to the invention, mention may be made of non-ethoxylated alkyl sulfates, alkylamido ether sulfates, alkylarylpolyether sulfates, monoglyceride sulfates, alkylsulfonates, alkylamidesulfonates, alkylarylsulfonates, alpha-olefin sulfonates, paraffin sulfonates, alkylsulfosuccinates, alkylether sulfosuccinates, alkylamide sulfosuccinates, alkylsulfoacetates, acylsarcosinates, acylglutamates, alkylsulfosuccinamates, acylisethionates and N-acyltaurates, salts of alkyl monoesters and polyglycoside-polycarboxylic acids, acyllactylates, D-galactoside-uronic acid salts, alkyl ether carboxylic acid salts, alkylaryl ether carboxylic acid salts, alkylamido ether carboxylic acid salts; and the corresponding non-salified forms of all these compounds; the alkyl and acyl groups of all these compounds comprising from 6 to 24 carbon atoms and the aryl group denoting a phenyl group.

Some of these compounds may be oxyethylenated and then preferably comprise from 1 to 50 and more particularly from 1 to 10 ethylene oxide units.

The salts of C6-24 alkyl monoesters and polyglycoside-polycarboxylic acids may be selected from C6-24 alkyl polyglycoside-citrates, C6-24 alkyl polyglycoside- tartrates and C6-24 alkyl polyglycoside-sulfosuccinates.

When the anionic surfactant(s) (B) are in salt form, they can be selected from alkali metal salts, such as the sodium or potassium salt, and preferably the sodium salt, ammonium salts (NH4+), amine salts, and in particular amino alcohol salts, and alkaline-earth metal salts such as the magnesium salt.

Alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal salts and in particular the sodium or magnesium salts are preferably used.

Among all the anionic surfactants (B) mentioned, it is preferred to use the salts of (C6-24)alkylether carboxylic acids and non-ethoxylated (C6-24)alkyl sulfates.

In particular, it is preferred to use non-ethoxylated (C6-24)alkyl sulfates, and in particular sodium, magnesium or ammonium lauryl sulfates. Sodium lauryl sulfate is more preferentially used.

The composition according to the invention preferably comprises from 0.5% to 30% by weight, in particular from 1 % to 20% by weight, better still from 1% to 5%, even better still from 1% to 4% by weight of anionic surfactant(s) (B) relative to the total weight of the composition.

In one preferred embodiment, the anionic surfactant(s) (A) are chosen from ethoxylated (C6-C24)alkyl sulfates comprising from 1 to 50, preferably from 1 to 10, in particular from 1 to 5 and better still from 2 to 3 ethylene oxide units; and the anionic surfactant(s) (B) are chosen from (C6-C24)alkyl sulfates.

In this embodiment described above, the concentrations of anionic surfactants (A) and (B) may be as described previously.

Advantageously, in the composition according to the invention, the weight ratio of the amount of anionic surfactant(s) (A) to the amount of anionic surfactant(s) (B) ranges from 0.7 to 0.9 and preferably from 0.75 to 0.85.

(C) Amphoteric and/or zwitterionic surfactant(s):

The amphoteric and/or zwitterionic surfactants may especially be (non-limiting list) aliphatic secondary or tertiary amine derivatives in which the aliphatic radical is a linear or branched chain containing 8 to 22 carbon atoms and containing at least one water-solubilizing anionic group (for example carboxylate, sulfonate, sulfate, phosphate or phosphonate); mention may also be made of (C8-C20)alkylbetaines, sulfobetaines, (C8-C20)alkylamido(C1- C6)alkylbetaines or (C8-C20)alkylamido(C1-C6)alkylsulfobetaines.

Among the optionally quaternized derivatives of secondary or tertiary aliphatic amines that may be used, as defined above, mention may also be made of the compounds with the respective structures (I) and (II) below:

Ra-C(0)-NH-CH2-CH2-N+(Rb)(Rc)-CH2C(0)0-, M+ (I) in which formula (A1):

■ Ra represents a C10-C30 alkyl or alkenyl group derived from an acid Ra-COOH preferably present in hydrolysed coconut oil, or a heptyl, nonyl or undecyl group;

■ Rb represents a beta-hydroxyethyl group; and

■ Rc represents a carboxymethyl group;

■ M+ represents a cationic counterion derived from an alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal, such as sodium, an ammonium ion or an ion derived from an organic amine, and

Ra'-C(0)-NH-CH2-CH2-N(B)(B") (II)

in which formula (A2):

B represents the group -CH2-CH2-0-X';

^■ B' represents the group -(CH2)zY\ with z = 1 or 2;

■ X' represents the group -CH2-C(0)OH, -CH2-C(0)OZ', -CH2-CH2-C(0)OH or - CH2-CH2-C(0)OZ', or a hydrogen atom;

Y' represents the group -C(0)OH, -C(0)OZ\ -CH2-CH(OH)-S03H or the group - CH2-CH(OH)-S03-Z';

^■ Z' represents a cationic counterion derived from an alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal, such as sodium, an ammonium ion or an ion derived from an organic amine;

^■ Ra' represents a C10-C30 alkyl or alkenyl group of an acid Ra'-C(0)OH preferably present in coconut oil or in hydrolysed linseed oil, an alkyl group, especially of C17 and its iso form, or an unsaturated C17 group.

These compounds are classified in the CTFA dictionary, 5th edition, 1993, under the names disodium cocoamphodiacetate, disodium lauroamphodiacetate, disodium caprylamphodiacetate, disodium capryloamphodiacetate, disodium cocoamphodipropionate, disodium lauroamphodipropionate, disodium caprylamphodipropionate, disodium capryloamphodipropionate, lauroamphodipropionic acid and cocoamphodipropionic acid.

An example that may be mentioned is disodium cocoamphodiacetate, sold under the trade name Miranol®C2M Concentrate by the company Rhodia Chimie.

According to the present invention, it is more particularly preferred to use amphoteric surfactants belonging to the betaine group.

Among the amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants mentioned above, use is preferably made of (C8-C20)alkylbetaines such as cocoylbetaine, (C8- C20)alkylamido(C3-C8)alkylbetaines such as cocamidopropylbetaine, and mixtures thereof. More preferentially, the amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant(s) are chosen from cocamidopropylbetaine such as Tegobetaine® F50 sold by the company Goldschmidt, and in particular the cocoylbetaine sold under the name Dehyton AB 30 as an aqueous solution containing 30% AM from the company Henkel.

The amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant(s) are generally present in amounts ranging from 0.1% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 15% by weight, more particularly from 0.5% to 10% by weight, better still from 0.5% to 3% by weight and even better still from 0.5% to 1.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

(D) Alkylpolyglycoside nonionic surfactant(s): The alkylpolyglycoside nonionic surfactants may be represented more particularly by the following general formula:

R10-(R20)t (G)v (III)

in which R1 represents a linear or branched alkyl and/or alkenyl radical comprising from about 8 to 24 carbon atoms, an alkylphenyl radical in which the linear or branched alkyl radical comprises from 8 to 24 carbon atoms, R2 represents an alkylene radical comprising from about 2 to 4 carbon atoms, G represents a sugar unit comprising from 5 to 6 carbon atoms, t denotes a value ranging from 0 to 10, preferably 0 to 4, and v denotes a value ranging from 1 to 15.

Preferred alkylpolyglycosides according to the present invention are compounds of formula (III) in which R1 more particularly denotes a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl radical comprising from 8 to 18 carbon atoms, t denotes a value ranging from 0 to 3 and more particularly equal to 0, and G may denote glucose, fructose or galactose, preferably glucose. The degree of polymerization, i.e. the value of v in formula (4), may range from 1 to 15 and preferably from 1 to 4. The average degree of polymerization is more particularly between 1 and 2 and even more preferentially from 1.1 to 1.5.

The glycoside bonds between the sugar units are of 1-6 or 1-4 type and preferably of 1-4 type.

Compounds of formula (III) are especially represented by the products sold by the company Cognis under the names Plantaren® (600 CS/U, 1200 and 2000) or Plantacare® (818, 1200 and 2000). It is also possible to use the products sold by the company SEPPIC under the names Triton CG 110 (or Oramix CG 110) and Triton CG 312 (or Oramix® NS 10), the products sold by the company BASF under the name Lutensol GD 70 or those sold by the company Chem Y under the name AG10 LK.

It is also possible to use, for example, the C8/C16 alkyl 1 ,4-polyglucoside as an aqueous 53% solution sold by Cognis under the reference Plantacare® 818 UP.

The nonionic surfactant(s) of alkylpolyglycoside type are generally present in amounts ranging from 0.1% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 10 % by weight, more particularly from 0.5% to 5% by weight, better still from 0.5% to 3% by weight and even better still from 0.5% to 1.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

The minimum amount of surfactants is that which is sufficient to give the final composition satisfactory foaming and/or detergent power, and excessive amounts of surfactants do not really afford any additional advantages.

Thus, according to the invention, the total amount of surfactants may represent from 4 % to 50 % by weight, preferably from 5 % to 20 % by weight, even more preferentially from 6 % to 15 % by weight and better still from 6% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the final composition.

The ethoxylated sulfate anionic surfactant(s)/amphoteric surfactant(s) weight ratio preferably ranges from 0.5 to 10, more particularly from 1 to 5 and even more preferentially from 1.5 to 4.

The ethoxylated sulfate anionic surfactant(s)/alkylpolyglycoside nonionic surfactant(s) weight ratio preferably ranges from 0.5 to 10, more particularly from 1 to 5 and even more preferentially from 1.5 to 4.

The anionic surfactant(s)/amphoteric surfactant(s) weight ratio preferably ranges from 0.5 to 10, more particularly from 1 to 10 and even more preferentially from 3 to 10.

The cosmetic composition according to the invention comprises one or more non-silicone cationic polymers.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "non-silicone" means not comprising any Si-O bonds.

The cationic charge density of the cationic polymers of the invention is preferably less than 4 milliequivalents per gram (meq./g), preferably ranging from 0.1 to 3.5 meq./g and more particularly from 0.5 to 1.5 meq./g.

The cationic charge density of a polymer corresponds to the number of moles of cationic charges per unit mass of polymer under conditions in which it is totally ionized. It may be determined by calculation if the structure of the polymer is known, i.e. the structure of the monomers constituting the polymer and their mole proportion or weight proportion. It may also be determined experimentally via the Kjeldahl method, generally at a pH of about 7 at room temperature.

The cationic polymers that may be used in accordance with the present invention may be selected from any of those already known per se to enhance the cosmetic properties of hair treated with detergent compositions, these being, in particular, the polymers described in patent application EP-A-0 337 354 and in French patent applications FR-A-2 270 846, 2 383 660, 2 598 611 , 2 470 596 and 2 519 863.

The term "cationic polymer" means a polymer that is positively charged when it is contained in the composition according to the invention. This polymer may bear one or more positive permanent charges or may contain one or more cationizable functions in the composition according to the invention.

The cationic polymer(s) that may be used as conditioning agents according to the present invention are preferably chosen from polymers comprising primary, secondary, tertiary and/or quaternary amine groups forming part of the polymer chain or directly attached thereto, and having a molecular weight of between 500 and about 5 000 000 and preferably between 1000 and 3 000 000.

When the conditioning agent is a cationic polymer, it is preferably chosen from those that contain units comprising primary, secondary, tertiary and/or quaternary amine groups that may either form part of the main polymer chain, or may be borne by a side substituent directly attached thereto.

Among the cationic polymers that may be mentioned more particularly are polymers of the polyamine, polyamino amide and polyquaternary ammonium type. These are known products. They are described, for example, in French patents 2 505 348 and 2 542 997.

Among these polymers, mention may be made of:

(1) homopolymers or copolymers that are derived from acrylic or methacrylic esters or amides and comprise at least one of the units of the following formulae:

(V)

(VII)

in which:

R3 and R4, which may be identical or different, represent hydrogen or an alkyl group containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms and preferably methyl or ethyl;

R5, which may be identical or different, denote a hydrogen atom or a CH3 radical; A, which may be identical or different, represents a linear or branched alkyl group of 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably 2 or 3 carbon atoms, or a hydroxyalkyl group of 1 to 4 carbon atoms; R6, R7 and R8, which may be identical or different, represent an alkyl group containing from 1 to 18 carbon atoms or a benzyl radical and preferably an alkyl group containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms;

X denotes an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid, such as a methosulfate anion or a halide such as chloride or bromide.

The copolymers of family (1) can also contain one or more units derived from comonomers that may be chosen from the family of acrylamides, methacrylamides, diacetone acrylamides, acrylamides and methacrylamides substituted on the nitrogen with lower (C1-C4) alkyls, acrylic or methacrylic acids or esters thereof, vinyllactams such as vinylpyrrolidone or vinylcaprolactam, and vinyl esters.

Thus, among these copolymers of the family

(1), mention may be made of:

copolymers of acrylamide and of dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate quaternized with dimethyl sulfate or with a dimethyl halide, such as the product sold under the name Hercofloc by the company Hercules,

the copolymers of acrylamide and of methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride described, for example, in patent application EP-A-080 976 and sold under the name Bina Quat P 100 by the company Ciba Geigy,

- the copolymer of acrylamide and of methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium methosulfate sold under the name Reten by the company Hercules,

quaternized or non-quaternized vinylpyrrolidone/dialkylaminoalkyl acrylate or methacrylate copolymers, such as the products sold under the name Gafquat by the company ISP, such as, for example, Gafquat 734 or Gafquat 755, or alternatively the products known as Copolymer 845, 958 and 937. These polymers are described in detail in French patents 2 077 143 and 2 393 573,

dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate/vinylcaprolactam/vinylpyrrolidone terpolymers, such as the product sold under the name Gaffix VC 713 by the company ISP,

- vinylpyrrolidone/methacrylamidopropyldimethylamine copolymers sold in particular under the name Styleze CC 10 by ISP,

quaternized vinylpyrrolidone/dimethylaminopropylmethacrylamide copolymers such as the product sold under the name Gafquat HS 100 by the company ISP, and

- crosslinked polymers of methacryloyloxy(C1-C4)alkyltri(C1-

C4)alkylammonium salts, such as the polymers obtained by homopolymerization of dimethyiaminoethyl methacrylate quaternized with methyl chloride, or by copolymerization of acrylamide with dimethyiaminoethyl methacrylate quaternized with methyl chloride, the homopolymerization or copolymerization being followed by crosslinking with an olefinically unsaturated compound, more particularly methylenebisacrylamide. A crosslinked acrylamide/methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride copolymer (20/80 by weight) in the form of a dispersion containing 50% by weight of the said copolymer in mineral oil can be used more particularly. This dispersion is sold under the name Salcare® SC 92 by the company Ciba. A crosslinked methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride homopolymer, for example as a dispersion in mineral oil or in a liquid ester, can also be used. These dispersions are sold under the names Salcare® SC 95 and Salcare® SC 96 by the company Ciba.

(2) Polymers formed from piperazinyl units and divalent alkylene or hydroxyalkylene radicals containing straight or branched chains, optionally interrupted with oxygen, sulfur or nitrogen atoms or with aromatic or heterocyclic rings, and also the oxidation and/or quaternization products of these polymers. Such polymers are especially described in French patents 2 162 025 and 2 280 361.

(3) Water-soluble polyamino amides prepared in particular by polycondensation of an acidic compound with a polyamine; these polyamino amides can be crosslinked with an epihalohydrin, a diepoxide, a dianhydride, an unsaturated dianhydride, a bisunsaturated derivative, a bis-halohydrin, a bisazetidinium, a bis- haloacyldiamine, a bis-alkyl halide or alternatively with an oligomer resulting from the reaction of a difunctional compound which is reactive with a bis-halohydrin, a bisazetidinium, a bis-haloacyldiamine, a bis-alkyl halide, an epihalohydrin, a diepoxide or a bis-unsaturated derivative; the crosslinking agent being used in proportions ranging from 0.025 to 0.35 mol per amine group of the polyamino amide; these polyamino amides can be alkylated or, if they comprise one or more tertiary amine functions, they can be quaternized. Such polymers are especially described in French patents 2 252 840 and 2 368 508.

(4) Polyamino amide derivatives resulting from the condensation of polyalkylene polyamines with polycarboxylic acids followed by alkylation with difunctional agents. Mention may be made, for example, of adipic acid/dialkylaminohydroxyalkyldialkylenetriamine polymers in which the alkyl radical contains from 1 to 4 carbon atoms and preferably denotes methyl, ethyl or propyl. Such polymers are especially described in French patent 1 583 363.

Among these derivatives, mention may be made more particularly of the adipic acid/dimethylaminohydroxypropyl/diethylenetriamine polymers sold under the name Cartaretine F, F4 or F8 by the company Sandoz.

(5) The polymers obtained by reaction of a polyalkylene polyamine containing two primary amine groups and at least one secondary amine group with a dicarboxylic acid chosen from diglycolic acid and saturated aliphatic dicarboxylic acids having from 3 to 8 carbon atoms. The mole ratio between the polyalkylene polyamine and the dicarboxylic acid is between 0.8: 1 and 1.4: 1 ; the polyamino amide resulting therefrom is reacted with epichlorohydrin in a mole ratio of epichlorohydrin relative to the secondary amine group of the polyamino amide of between 0.5: 1 and 1.8: 1. Such polymers are described in particular in US patents 3 227 615 and 2 961 347.

Polymers of this type are sold in particular under the name Hercosett 57 by the company Hercules Inc. or alternatively under the name PD 170 or Delsette 101 by the company Hercules in the case of the adipic acid/epoxypropyl/diethylenetriamine copolymer.

(6) Cyclopolymers of alkyldiallylamine or of dialkyldiallylammonium, such as the homopolymers or copolymers containing, as main constituent of the chain, units corresponding to formula (VIII) or (IX):

-<CH₂)_t—

(IX) in which k and t are equal to 0 or 1 , the sum k + 1 being equal to 1 ; R12 denotes a hydrogen atom or a methyl group; R10 and R11 , independently of each other, denote an alkyl group having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, a hydroxyalkyl group in which the alkyl group has preferably 1 to 5 carbon atoms, a lower (C1-C4) amidoalkyl group, or R10 and R11 may denote, jointly with the nitrogen atom to which they are attached, heterocyclic groups, such as piperidinyl or morpholinyl; Y- is an anion such as bromide, chloride, acetate, borate, citrate, tartrate, bisulfate, bisulfite, sulfate or phosphate. These polymers are especially described in French patent 2 080 759 and in its Certificate of Addition 2 190 406.

R10 and R11 , independently of one another, preferably denote an alkyl group having from 1 to 4 carbon atoms.

Among the polymers defined above, mention may be made more particularly of the dimethyldiallylammonium chloride homopolymer sold under the name Merquat 100 by the company Nalco (and its homologues of low weight-average molecular mass) and the copolymers of diallyldimethylammonium chloride and of acrylamide, sold under the name Merquat 550.

(7) The quaternary diammonium polymer containing repeating units corresponding to the formula:

^Rl3

N+ -A. - N+- B,—

R X-

14 R ^16 X-

(X)

in which formula (XII):

R13, R14, R15 and R16, which may be identical or different, represent aliphatic, alicyclic or arylaliphatic groups containing from 1 to 20 carbon atoms, or lower hydroxyalkylaliphatic groups, or else R13, R14, R15 and R16, together or separately, constitute, with the nitrogen atoms to which they are attached, heterocycles optionally containing a second heteroatom other than the nitrogen, or else R13, R14, R15 and R16 represent a linear or branched C1-C6 alkyl radical which is substituted by a nitrile, ester, acyl, amide or CO-0-R17-D or -CO-NH-R17-D group in which R17 is an alkylene group and D is a quaternary ammonium group;

A1 and B1 represent polymethylene groups containing from 2 to 20 carbon atoms, which may be linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, and which may contain, linked to or intercalated in the main chain, one or more aromatic rings or one or more oxygen or sulfur atoms or sulfoxide, sulfone, disulfide, amino, alkylamino, hydroxyl, quaternary ammonium, ureido, amide or ester groups, and

X- denotes an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid;

A1 , R13 and R15 may form, with the two nitrogen atoms to which they are attached, a piperazine ring; moreover, if A1 denotes a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched alkylene or hydroxyalkylene group, B1 may also denote a group (CH2)n- CO-D-OC-(CH2)p- n and p are integers ranging from 2 to 20 approximately

in which D denotes:

a) a glycol residue of formula: OZO, where Z denotes a linear or branched hydrocarbon-based radical or a group corresponding to one of the following formulae:

(CH2-CH2-O)x -CH2-CH2- [CH2-CH(CH3)-0]y-CH2-CH(CH3)- where x and y denote an integer from 1 to 4, representing a defined and unique degree of polymerization or any number from 1 to 4 representing an average degree of polymerization; b) a bis-secondary diamine residue such as a piperazine derivative;

c) a bis-primary diamine residue of formula: -NH-Y-NH-, where Y denotes a linear or branched hydrocarbon-based radical, or alternatively the divalent radical

CH2-CH2-S-S-CH2-CH2-;

d) a ureylene group of formula: -NH-CO-NH-;

Preferably, X- is an anion such as chloride or bromide.

These polymers generally have a number-average molecular mass of between 1000 and 100 000.

Polymers of this type are described in particular in French patents 2 320330, 2270 846, 2 316271, 2 336434 and 2413907 and US patents 2273780, 2 375853,

2388614, 2454 547, 3206462, 2261 002, 2271 378, 3874 870, 4001 432, 3929990,

3 966 904, 4005 193, 4 025617, 4 025627, 4025653, 4 026 945 and 4 027020.

Use may be made more particularly of polymers that are composed of repeating units corresponding to the formula:

in which R18, R19, R20 and R21 , which may be identical or different, denote an alkyl or hydroxyalkyl group having from about 1 to 4 carbon atoms, r and s are integers varying from 2 to 20 approximately, and X- is an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid.

One particularly preferred compound of formula (XI) is that for which R18, R19, R20 and R21 represent a methyl radical and r = 3, s = 6 and X = CI, known as Hexadimethrine chloride according to the INCI (CTFA) nomenclature.

(8) Polyquaternary ammonium polymers composed of units of formula (XII):

— N+ - (CHA - NH - CO - (CH,)„ - CO - NH (ChL) - N+ - A—

X- I ^u I

^R x- ^RK (XII)

in which formula:

R22, R23, R24 and R25, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a methyl, ethyl, propyl, β-hydroxyethyl, β-hydroxypropyl or - CH2CH2(OCH2CH2)pOH radical,

in which p is equal to 0 or to an integer between 1 and 6, with the proviso that R22, R23, R24 and R25 do not simultaneously represent a hydrogen atom, t and u, which may be identical or different, are integers between 1 and 6, v is equal to 0 or to an integer between 1 and 34,

X- denotes an anion such as a halide,

A denotes a radical of a dihalide or represents preferably -CH2-CH2-0-CH2-CH2-. Such compounds are described especially in patent application EP-A-

122 324.

Among these, mention may be made, for example, of the products Mirapol® A 15, Mirapol® AD1 , Mirapol® AZ1 and Mirapol® 175, sold by the company Miranol.

(9) Quaternary polymers of vinylpyrrolidone and of vinylimidazole, for instance the products sold under the names Luviquat® FC 905, FC 550 and FC 370 by the company BASF.

(10) Cationic polysaccharides, especially cationic celluloses and galactomannan gums.

Among cationic polysaccharides, mention may be made more particularly of cellulose ether derivatives comprising quaternary ammonium groups, cationic cellulose copolymers or cellulose derivatives grafted with a water-soluble quaternary ammonium monomer and cationic galactomannan gums.

The cellulose ether derivatives comprising quaternary ammonium groups described in French patent 1 492 597. These polymers are also defined in the CTFA dictionary as quaternary ammoniums of hydroxyethylcellulose that have reacted with an epoxide substituted with a trimethylammonium group.

Cationic cellulose copolymers or cellulose derivatives grafted with a water- soluble monomer of quaternary ammonium are described especially in US patent 4 131 576, such as hydroxyalkylcelluloses, for instance hydroxymethyl-, hydroxyethyl- or hydroxypropyl- celluloses grafted, in particular, with a methacryloylethyltrimethylammonium, methacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium or dimethyldiallylammonium salt.

The cationic galactomannan gums are described more particularly in US patents 3 589 578 and 4 031 307, in particular guar gums containing cationic trialkylammonium groups. Guar gums modified with a salt (e.g. chloride) of 2,3- epoxypropyltrimethylammonium are used, for example.

Other cationic polymers that may be used in the context of the invention are cationic proteins or cationic protein hydrolysates, polyalkyleneimines, in particular polyethyleneimines, polymers containing vinylpyridine or vinylpyridinium units, condensates of polyamines and of epichlorohydrin, quaternary polyureylenes and chitin derivatives.

The cationic proteins or protein hydrolysates are, in particular, chemically modified polypeptides bearing quaternary ammonium groups at the end of the chain, or grafted thereon. Their molecular mass may vary, for example, from 1500 to 10 000 and in particular from 2000 to 5000 approximately. Among these compounds, mention may be made especially of:

- collagen hydrolysates carrying triethylammonium groups, such as the products sold under the name Quat-Pro E by the company Maybrook and referred to in the CTFA dictionary as Triethonium Hydrolyzed Collagen Ethosulfate;

collagen hydrolysates bearing trimethylammonium chloride and tnmethylstearylammonium chloride groups, which are sold under the name Quat-Pro S by the company Maybrook and are referred to in the CTFA dictionary as Steartrimonium Hydrolyzed Collagen;

animal protein hydrolysates which bear trimethylbenzylammonium groups, such as the products sold under the name Crotein BTA by the company Croda and referred to in the CTFA dictionary as Benzyltrimonium hydrolyzed animal protein;

- protein hydrolysates bearing quaternary ammonium groups on the polypeptide chain, the said ammonium groups containing at least one alkyl group having from 1 to 18 carbon atoms.

Among these protein hydrolysates, mention may be made, inter alia, of:

Croquat L, in which the quaternary ammonium groups contain a C 2 alkyl group;

Croquat M, in which the quaternary ammonium groups contain C10- C18 alkyl groups;

Croquat S, in which the quaternary ammonium groups contain a C18 alkyl group;

- Crotein Q, in which the quaternary ammonium groups contain at least one alkyl group having from 1 to 18 carbon atoms.

These various products are sold by the company Croda.

Other quaternized proteins or hydrolysates are, for example, those corresponding to the formula (XIII):

^CHs (XIII)

in which X- is an anion of an organic or inorganic acid, A denotes a protein residue derived from collagen protein hydrolysates, R29 denotes a lipophilic group containing up to 30 carbon atoms, R30 represents an alkylene group having 1 to 6 carbon atoms. Mention may be made, for example, of the products sold by the company Inolex, under the name Lexein QX 3000, referred to, in the CTFA dictionary, as Cocotrimonium Collagen Hydrolysate.

Mention may also be made of quaternized plant proteins such as wheat, corn or soybean proteins: quaternized wheat proteins that may be mentioned include those sold by the company Croda under the name Hydrotriticum WQ or QM, which in the CTFA dictionary are called Cocodimonium Hydrolysed wheat protein, or Hydrotriticum QL, which in the CTFA dictionary is called Laurdimonium hydrolysed wheat protein, or else Hydrotriticum QS, which in the CTFA dictionary is called Steardimonium hydrolysed wheat protein.

Among all the cationic polymers that may be used in the context of the present invention, it is preferred to use cationic cyclopolymers, in particular dimethyldiallylammonium chloride homopolymers or copolymers, sold under the names Merquat 100, Merquat 550 and Merquat S by the company Nalco, quaternary polymers of vinylpyrrolidone and of vinylimidazole, and cationic polysaccharides, and mixtures thereof.

Even more preferentially, it is preferred to use cationic polysaccharides and more particularly cationic guar gums.

The non-silicone cationic polymer(s) are generally present in amounts ranging from 0.01 % to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.02% to 5 % by weight, more particularly from 0.05% to 3% by weight, better still from 0.075% to 0.5 % by weight and even better still from 0.1% to 0.3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition and better still 0.1% to 0.2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

The silicones that may be used in accordance with the invention may be soluble or insoluble in the composition and they may be in particular polyorganosiloxanes that are insoluble in the composition of the invention; they may be in the form of oils, waxes, resins or gums.

Organopolysiloxanes are defined in greater detail in Walter Noll's "Chemistry and Technology of Silicones" (1968) Academic Press. They may be volatile or non-volatile.

When they are volatile, the silicones are more particularly chosen from those with a boiling point of between 60°C and 260°C, and even more particularly from:

(i) cyclic silicones comprising from 3 to 7 and preferably 4 to 5 silicon atoms. These are, for example, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane sold especially under the name Volatile Silicone 7207 by Union Carbide or Silbione 70045 V 2 by Rhodia, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane sold under the name Volatile Silicone 7158 by Union Carbide, and Silbione 70045 V 5 by Rhodia, and mixtures thereof. Mention may also be made of cyclocopolymers of the dimethylsiloxane/methylalkylsiloxane type, such as Volatile Silicone FZ 3109 sold by the company Union Carbide, having the chemical structure:

[—D - D' D - D'— I

CH₃ CH, with D : — Si - O— with D' : - Si - O—

CH₃ C₈H₁₇

Mention may also be made of mixtures of cyclic silicones with organosilicon compounds, such as the mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and tetratrimethylsilylpentaerythritol (50/50) and the mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and oxy-1 ,1'-bis(2,2,2',2',3,3'-hexatrimethylsilyloxy)neopentane;

(ii) linear volatile silicones containing 2 to 9 silicon atoms and having a viscosity of less than or equal to 5x10-6 m2/s at 25°C. An example is decamethyltetrasiloxane sold in particular under the name SH 200 by the company Toray Silicone. Silicones belonging to this category are also described in the article published in Cosmetics and Toiletries, Vol. 91, Jan. 76, pp. 27-32, Todd & Byers, Volatile Silicone Fluids for Cosmetics.

Among the non-volatile silicones, mention may be made especially of polyalkylsiloxanes, polyarylsiloxanes, polyalkylarylsiloxanes, silicone gums and resins, polyorganosiloxanes modified with organofunctional groups, and also mixtures thereof.

The organomodified silicones that can be used in accordance with the invention are silicones as defined above and comprising in their structure one or more organofunctional groups attached via a hydrocarbon-based radical.

Among the organomodified silicones, mention may be made of polyorganosiloxanes comprising:

polyethyleneoxy and/or polypropyleneoxy groups optionally comprising C6-C24 alkyl groups, such as the products known as dimethicone copolyol sold by the company Dow Corning under the name DC 1248 or the oils Silwet® L 722, L 7500, L 77 and L 711 by the company Union Carbide, and the (C12)alkylmethicone copolyol sold by the company Dow Corning under the name Q2 5200;

substituted or unsubstituted amine groups, such as the products sold under the name GP 4 Silicone Fluid and GP 7100 by the company Genesee, or the products sold under the names Q2 8220 and Dow Corning 929 or 939 by the company Dow Corning. The substituted amine groups are, in particular, C1-C4 aminoalkyl groups;

thiol groups, such as the products sold under the names GP 72 A and GP 71 from Genesee; 1

20

alkoxylated groups, such as the product sold under the name Silicone Copolymer F-755 by SWS Silicones and Abil Wax® 2428, 2434 and 2440 by the company Goldschmidt;

hydroxylated groups, such as the polyorganosiloxanes containing a hydroxyalkyl function, described in French patent application FR-A-85/16334;

acyloxyalkyl groups, for instance the polyorganosiloxanes described in patent US-A-4 957 732;

anionic groups of the carboxylic acid type, for instance in the products described in patent EP 186 507 from the company Chisso Corporation, or of the aikylcarboxylic type, such as those present in the product X-22-3701E from the company Shin-Etsu; 2-hydroxyalkyl sulfonate; 2-hydroxyalkyl thiosulfate such as the products sold by the company Goldschmidt under the names Abil® S201 and Abil® S255;

hydroxyacylamino groups, for instance the polyorganosiloxanes described in patent application EP 342 834. Mention may be made, for example, of the product Q2-8413 from the company Dow Corning.

Preferably, the silicones of the invention are insoluble in water at 25°C.

The term "insoluble in water" means that the solubility of the silicone in water is less than 0.5% and preferably less than 0.1%.

Preferably, the silicone(s) of the invention are chosen from unmodified polydimethylsiloxanes and from amino polydimethylsiloxanes.

Even more preferentially, the silicone(s) of the invention are chosen from unmodified polydimethylsiloxanes.

The silicone(s) may be used in the compositions in accordance with the invention in concentrations generally ranging from 0.01% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 10% by weight, even more preferentially from 0.1% to 5% by weight, better still from 0.5% to 2% by weight and even better still from 0.75% to 1.25% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

The composition according to the invention may comprise one or more mineral, plant or animal oils. Mention may be made especially, as oils of plant origin, of sweet almond oil, avocado oil, castor oil, olive oil, jojoba oil, sunflower oil, wheatgerm oil, sesame oil, groundnut oil, grapeseed oil, soybean oil, rapeseed oil, safflower oil, coconut oil, corn oil, hazelnut oil, shea butter oil, palm oil, apricot kernel oil or beauty- leaf oil; as oil of animal origin, perhydrosqualene; as oils of mineral origin, liquid paraffin and liquid petroleum jelly; and mixtures thereof.

The composition according to the invention may comprise one or more polyisobutenes and poly(alpha-olefins), chosen from those that are well known in the art. The composition according to the invention may comprise one or more fatty esters. Examples that may be mentioned especially include fatty acid esters preferably containing from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, for instance isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, 2- ethylhexyl palmitate, purcellin oil (stearyl octanoate), isononyl or isostearyl isononanoate, and isopropyl lanolate, and mixtures thereof. Mention may also especially be made of esters of fatty alcohols preferably containing from 8 to 22 carbon atoms.

The detergent compositions according to the invention have a final pH generally of between 3 and 8. Preferably, this pH is between 4 and 7.5. The pH may be adjusted to the desired value conventionally by adding a base (organic or mineral) to the composition, for example sodium hydroxide, aqueous ammonia or a primary, secondary or tertiary (poly)amine, for instance monoethanolamine, diethanolamine, triethanolamine, isopropanolamine or 1 ,3-propanediamine, or alternatively by adding a mineral or organic acid, preferably citric acid or hydrochloric acid.

The composition according to the invention comprises water or a mixture of water and of one or more organic solvents such as C1-C4 lower alcohols such as ethanol, isopropanol, tert-butanol or n-butanol; polyols such as propylene glycol, hexylene glycol or glycerol.

The composition according to the invention preferably comprises at least 30% by weight, more particularly from 50% to 90% by weight and more preferably from 70% to 85% by weight of water relative to the total weight of the composition.

The compositions in accordance with the invention may also contain up to 5% of nacreous agents or opacifiers that are well known in the state of the art, for instance fatty alcohols especially of C16 to C24, sodium palmitate or magnesium palmitate, sodium or magnesium stearate or hydroxy-stearate, fatty alcohols, fatty-chain acyl derivatives such as ethylene glycol or polyethylene glycol distearates, and fatty- chain ethers, for instance distearyl ether or 1-(hexadecyloxy)-2-octadecanol.

The compositions according to the invention may also contain foam synergists such as C10-C18 1 ,2-alkanediols or C10-C18 fatty alkanolamides derived from monoethanolamine or from diethanolamine.

The compositions according to the invention may also contain additives such as natural or synthetic, anionic, amphoteric, zwitterionic, nonionic or cationic, associative or non-associative polymeric thickeners, non-polymeric thickeners, for instance acids or electrolytes, fragrances, dyes, mineral or organic particles, preserving agents, and pH stabilizers.

Among the thickeners, mention may be made in particular of scleroglucans, xanthan gums, fatty acid alkanolamides, alkyl ether carboxylic acid alkanolamides optionally oxyethylenated with up to 5 mol of ethylene oxide, such as the product sold under the name Aminol A15 by the company Chem Y, crosslinked polyacrylic acids and crosslinked acrylic acid/C10-C30 alkyl acrylate copolymers.

A person skilled in the art will take care to select the optional additives and the amount thereof such that they do not harm the properties of the treatment compositions.

These additives are present in the composition according to the invention in an amount ranging from 0 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

Needless to say, a person skilled in the art will take care to select this or these optional additional compounds such that the advantageous properties intrinsically associated with the cosmetic composition in accordance with the invention are not, or are not substantially, adversely affected by the envisaged addition(s).

These compositions may be in the form of more or less thick and liquids, creams or gels, foams, waxes, W/O or O/W emulsions or multiple emulsions, and they are mainly suitable for washing keratin materials and in particular the hair and the skin, even more particularly the hair.

A subject of the invention is also a process for washing and conditioning keratin materials especially such as the hair, which consists in applying to the said wet keratin materials an effective amount of a composition as defined above, and then in rinsing with water after an optional leave-on time.

The compositions according to the invention are preferably used as shampoos for washing and conditioning the hair, and they are applied, in this case, to wet hair in amounts that are suitable to wash them, and the lather generated by massaging or rubbing with the hands is then removed after an optional leave-on time, by rinsing with water, the operation possibly being repeated one or more times.

The compositions in accordance with the invention may also be used as shower gels for washing and conditioning the hair and/or the skin, in which case they are applied to wet skin and/or hair and are rinsed off after application.

Preferably, the compositions according to the invention are used on the hair. Concrete but in no way limiting examples illustrating the invention will now be given. The percentages are given on the basis of active materials.

EXAMPLE 1

Shampoo composition A in accordance with the invention and comparative composition B below were prepared (the contents are expressed as active materials and in grams per 100 g of composition):

B (outside the

A invention)

Sodium lauryl ether sulfate 3.55 4.94 Cocoylbetaine (Dehyton AB 30 from Cognis) 1.05 1.05

Lauryl glucoside (Plantaren 1200 N UP from Cognis) 1 1

Sodium lauryl sulfate 3.13 1.73

Guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride (Jaguar C-13-S

from Rhodia) 0.1 0.1

Cocamide MIPA (Empilan CIS from Huntsman) 0.5 0.5

Glycol distearate (Cutina GDS from Cognis) 1.6 1.6

Polydimethylsiloxane (Dimethicone)(Wacker Belsil DM

60000 from Wacker) 1.125 1.125

Carbomer (Carbopol 980 Polymer from Lubrizol) 0.15 0.15

Preserving agents qs

Water qs 100 % 100 %

LS/LES ratio 0.88 0.35

To evaluate the cosmetic impact of the two compositions A and B, the force required on combing dry hair at 25°C and 40% relative humidity after treating natural wet hair with compositions A and B at room temperature in a proportion of 0.4 g of composition per gram of hair, massaging for 15 seconds and rinsing and drying, was quantified.

This test is performed on an automatic combing machine formed from two combs and a lock support connected to a force sensor.

The combs pass through the lock from top to bottom and, on each passage (32 in total), the combing force is detected. The general average combing force is then used as the basis.

The following results are obtained:

Composition A thus allows greater ease of combing.

Other compositions according to the invention:

C D

Sodium lauryl ether sulfate 3.06 3.55

Cocoylbetaine (Dehyton AB 30 from Cognis) 2

Lauryl glucoside (Plantaren 1200 N UP from Cognis) 1.3 1.1

Sodium lauryl sulfate 2.3 3.13

Cocamidopropylbetaine (Tegobetaine F 50 from Evonik- Goldschmidt) 1.5

Guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride (Jaguar C-13-S from Rhodia) 0.1 0.15

Polyquaternium-10 (Ucare Polymer JR 400 LT from Amerchol) 0.15

Cocamide MIPA (Empilan CIS from Huntsman) 0.5 0.5

Glycol distearate (Cutina GDS from Cognis) 1.6 1.6

Polydimethylsiloxane (Dimethicone) (Wacker Belsil DM 60000 from

Wacker) 1.5

Amodimethicone (Dow Corning 2-8299 Cationic Emulsion (Dow

Corning) 1.2

Carbomer (Carbopol 980 Polymer from Lubrizol) 0.15 0.15

Preserving agents qs qs

Water qs 100% qs 100%

LS/LES ratio 0.75 0.88

Claims

1. Detergent cosmetic composition, characterized in that it comprises: (A) one or more anionic surfactants chosen from ethoxylated alkyl sulfates, the corresponding acids, and mixtures thereof, and

(B) one or more anionic surfactants other than the surfactant(s) (A),

(C) one or more amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants,

(D) one or more alkylpolyglycoside nonionic surfactants,

(E) one or more non-silicone cationic polymers, and

(F) one or more silicones,

2. Composition according to Claim 1 , characterized in that the total amount of surfactants ranges from 4% to 50% by weight, preferably from 5% to 20% by weight, more preferentially from 6% to 15% by weight and better still from 6% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

3. Composition according to either of the preceding claims, characterized in that the anionic surfactant(s) (A) are chosen from ethoxylated (C6-C24)alkyl sulfates comprising from 1 to 50 mol, preferably from 1 to 10 mol, in particular from 1 to 5 mol and better still from 2 to 3 mol of ethylene oxide.

4. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the anionic surfactant (A) is ethoxylated sodium lauryl sulfate comprising from 2 to 3 mol of ethylene oxide.

5. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises from 0.5% to 30% by weight, in particular from 1 % to 20% by weight, better still from 2% to 10%, even better still from 3% to 8% and most preferentially from 3% to 6% by weight of anionic surfactant(s)

(A) relative to the total weight of the composition.

6. Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the anionic surfactant(s) (B) other than the anionic surfactants (A) are chosen from the salts of (C6-24)alkyl ether carboxylic acids and non-ethoxylated (C6-24)alkyl sulfates, preferably from non-ethoxylated (C6-24)alkyl sulfates and more particularly from sodium, magnesium or ammonium lauryl sulfates and preferably sodium lauryl sulfate.

7. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises from 0.5% to 30% by weight, in particular from 1% to 20% by weight, better still from 1 % to 5%, even better still from 1 % to 4% by weight of anionic surfactant(s) (B) relative to the total weight of the composition.

8. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants are chosen from (C8-C20)alkylbetaines such as cocoylbetaine, (C8-C20)alkylamido(C3- C8)alkylbetaines such as cocamidopropylbetaine, and mixtures thereof.

9. Composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 8, characterized in that the amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant(s) are present in concentrations ranging from 0.1% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 15% by weight, more particularly from 0.5% to 10% by weight, better still from 0.5% to 3% by weight and even better still from 0.5% to 1.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

10. Composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 9, characterized in that the alkylpolyglucosides are represented by the following general formula:

R10-(R20)t (G)v (III)

11. Composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 10, characterized in that the said alkylpolyglycoside nonionic surfactant(s) are present in concentrations ranging from 0.1% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 10 % by weight, more particularly from 0.5% to 5% by weight, better still from 0.5% to 3% by weight and even better still from 0.5% to 1.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

12. Composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 11 , characterized in that the weight ratio of the amount of anionic surfactant(s) (A) to the amount of anionic surfactant(s) (B) ranges from 0.7 to 0.95 and preferably from 0.75 to 0.9.

13. Composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 13, characterized in that the silicones are chosen from unmodified polydimethylsiloxanes and amino polydimethylsiloxanes, and even more preferentially from unmodified polydimethylsiloxanes.

14. Composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 13, characterized in that the silicones are insoluble in water at 25°C.

15. Composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 14, characterized in that the said silicones are present in concentrations ranging from 0.01% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 10% by weight, even more preferentially from 0.1% to 5% by weight, better still from 0.5% to 2% by weight and even better still from 0.75% to 1.25% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

16. Composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 15, characterized in that the non-silicone cationic polymers are chosen from cationic cyclopolymers, in particular dimethyldiallylammonium chloride homopolymers or copolymers, quaternary polymers of vinylpyrrolidone and of vinylimidazole, cationic polysaccharides and mixtures thereof, preferably from cationic polysaccharides and more particularly cationic guar gums.

17. Composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 16, characterized in that the non-silicone cationic polymers have a cationic charge density of less than 4 meq./g.

18. Composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 17, characterized in that the cationic polymer(s) represent from 0.01 % to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.02% to 5 % by weight, more particularly from 0.05% to 3% by weight, better still from 0.075% to 0.5 % by weight and even better still from 0.1% to 0.3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

19. Use of a composition as defined in any one of Claims 1 to 18, for cleansing and/or removing makeup from keratin materials, and preferably for washing and conditioning the hair.

20. Process for washing and conditioning keratin materials such as the hair, which consists in applying to the said wet keratin materials an effective amount of a composition as defined in any one of Claims 1 to 18, and then in rinsing with water after an optional leave-on time.