WO2012131623A2 - Fractional cosmetic treatment process using a laser or microneedles - Google Patents

Abstract

The present invention relates to a cosmetic skin treatment process, for nontherapeutic purposes, comprising the following steps: -performing a fractional treatment of the skin so as to reduce the barrier function of the skin, -applying to the area to be treated or that has been treated, before, during or after the fractional treatment, an aqueous material comprising a hydrogel and/or biocellulose

Description

Fractional cosmetic treatment process using a laser or microneedles

The present invention relates to systems and processes for treating human skin and more particularly, but not exclusively, to those for cosmetic purposes. It is known practice to combine several skin treatments. For example, patent application US 2000/0 192 438 describes a method for rejuvenating the skin via a treatment with ultrasound and iontophoresis or electrotherapy, combined with the administration of a chromophore for cosmetic or therapeutic treatment. It is especially known practice to envisage a pretreatment step before the application to the skin of a stimulus or a composition. Patent application EP 1 281 394 describes a cosmetic skin treatment comprising the application of an exfoliant mask before a treatment with polarized light or a surface treatment using several infrared laser diodes illuminating simultaneously. Patent application EP 2 181 732 describes a method for promoting the penetration of NGF into the skin, for example with a tattoo needle or pretreatment with an exfoliant composition. A skin pre- or post-treatment may in particular be performed before or after a laser treatment. Patent application EP 1 364 624 thus discloses a gel to be applied to the skin before a PTL (photothermo lysis laser) treatment and patent application FR 2 937 548 describes the cosmetic use of a lysate of at least one microorganism of the genus Bifidobacterium for preparing the skin of an individual before the application of a skin surface treatment. International patent application WO 2004/103 432 relates to a face mask for treating wounds caused by a laser treatment, patent application FR 2 913 602 describes a composition, for example in gel form, for treating the skin after a cosmetic or therapeutic laser treatment, and patent application US 2008/0 183 250 concerns a device and a method for reconstructing the skin barrier after a medical or cosmetic treatment, for example by using a hydrogel comprising cellulose-based thickeners.

Fractional skin treatments have been proposed, in order to reduce the skin barrier function and to facilitate the action of cosmetic or therapeutic active agents.

The term "fractional treatment" should be understood as meaning a painless, noninvasive discreet treatment that consists in targeting spaced-apart points so as to preserve intact areas of skin between the treated points, which will serve as a cicatrization reserve for rapid step-by-step repair starting from the areas of intact skin.

Several types of fractional treatment exist.

It is known practice to use microneedles arranged in the form of a network, which perforate the upper layers of the skin to create microholes that facilitate the penetration of active agents. For example, patent application US 2008/0 268 007 discloses a patch comprising such a biodegradable matrix of microprobes.

Another known technique is based on the use of a laser and an optical system which, for example, separates the ray emitted by a laser into a multitude of relatively fine rays that constitute a plurality of treatment points at the points of impact with the skin, said skin undergoing at each point of impact a photothermolysis that excavates a microwell, facilitating the penetration of active agents. Patent applications US 2008/0 208 179 Al and WO 2008/053 198 describe a fractional laser treatment for reducing the skin barrier function while at the same time preserving the skin's capacity for protecting the body against infection by virtue of the numerous areas of skin left intact between the areas of impact of the laser.

Although a fractional treatment is less aggressive than a treatment on a continuous area of skin, certain devices may nevertheless cause discomfort during their application. In particular, since the fractional treatment aids the action of cosmetic or therapeutic agents across the various layers of the skin in treatment wells where the skin barrier function is reduced, these points become temporarily more sensitive to any inflammatory effects caused by the deep application of certain active agents. The application of certain compounds, for example in an acidic form, which might otherwise be beneficial, is possible only at a reduced depth with the existing fractional treatments, or even is impossible since it is too irritant. There is consequently a need to make a fractional treatment more comfortable and/or to broaden the field of active agents that may be applied after a fractional treatment without causing excessive discomfort to the person undergoing the treatment.

The treating properties of by bio-cellulose for repairing and soothing the skin are described, for example, on pages 145-151 of the block by W. Czaja et al. Microbial cellulose - the natural power to heal wounds, published by Biomaterials, Elsevier Science Publishers BV, Barking, BG, vol. 27, No. 2, January 1, XP025096958, and also in patent applications EP 2 011 470 and WO 2007/091 801, but these documents do not describe the use of biocellulose combined with a fractional skin treatment, in particular a fractional laser treatment.

The invention satisfies the needs of the prior art and makes it possible both to reduce the discomfort, or even the skin irritation, caused by a fractional treatment, and to extend the list of active agents that may be applied in combination with a fractional treatment by means of a process for treating human skin, in which an aqueous material, especially a hydrogel or biocellulose, is applied to the skin before and/or after the fractional treatment.

According to one of its aspects, an object of the invention is also a cosmetic skin treatment process, not for therapeutic purposes, comprising the following steps:

performing a fractional treatment of the skin so as to reduce its barrier function,

applying to the area to be treated, before or during or after the fractional treatment, an aqueous material comprising or constituted by a hydrogel and/or biocellulose.

The fractional treatment may treat the epidermis, or the epidermis and the dermis.

Preferably, the material comprises or is constituted by biocellulose.

The fractional treatment may be performed using microneedles or, preferably, a laser, as is detailed hereinbelow.

An object of the invention is also an assembly comprising the material, in a hydrated form or a form to be hydrated extemporaneously, and at least one composition comprising an active agent to be applied after removing the material from the skin or serving to moisturize the material. An object of the invention is also a material in sheet form for treating the skin, comprising a hydrogel and/or biocellulose and at least one active agent for exerting an action after a fractional skin treatment.

An object of the invention is also an assembly comprising the means for performing the fractional treatment, especially fractional laser, and at least one composition comprising an active agent to be applied to the treated skin and/or a material to be applied to the skin comprising a hydrogel and/or biocellulose.

Where appropriate, the material to be applied to the skin contains the active agent.

Material to be applied to the skin

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "aqueous material" means a cosmetically or physiologically acceptable gelled material, with a content of greater than 50% by mass of water, at least at the moment when the material is in contact with the skin.

The material may comprise between 10% and 99%, or even between 50% and 99%), or even between 51% and 99%, or even between 70%> and 95% by mass of water, at least at the moment when the material is in contact with the skin.

By virtue of the substantial presence of water, the material affords an immediate soothing freshness effect, which may even be extended over time given its physicochemical characteristics, which reduces the discomfort caused by the fractional treatment, the presence of the material having a beneficial effect both on the localized heat and discomfort and/or on any redness and/or stinging produced by the fractional treatment.

Furthermore, the use of the material, especially when it comprises biocellulose, may facilitate the action of one or more active agents applied to the skin, and increase their deep-down biological effects, especially by diffusion into the epidermal or dermal microwells transiently generated by the treatment.

By means of the invention, certain active agents may be applied to the skin in concentrations which, in the absence of application of the material, would have caused greater discomfort for the person undergoing the treatment.

The invention thus enables without any surgical intervention a deep-down remodelling and regenerative action, which is, paradoxically, very well tolerated.

Very surprisingly, the invention also makes it possible to use active agents which, for example on account of their acidity, would, in the absence of application of the material, also have caused the patient greater discomfort. By virtue of an anti-heat and anti-pain effect, the presence of the aqueous material makes it possible to diffuse these active agents in the epidermal pores temporarily generated by the laser treatment and thus to improve their deep-down beneficial biological effects.

Preferably, the material to be applied to the skin is preformed before application to the skin, i.e. it has mechanical cohesion that is sufficient to enable it to be manipulated as a single piece before being applied to the skin. This makes it possible to avoid having to manually spread a composition onto the skin at a moment when said skin may have increased sensitivity on account of the fractional treatment.

The material to be applied to the skin may be conditioned in hydrated form or may be hydrated extemporaneously. The water or the composition serving to hydrate the material may be supplied to the user with the material in dehydrated form, for example in the same conditioning.

The use of a material comprising biocellulose makes it possible to benefit from particularly advantageous effects, especially for reducing the amount of redness and stinging caused by the fractional laser treatment.

Biocellulose

Biocellulose is a material obtained by a nutrient aqueous medium, of bacteria of the genus Acetobacter (also known as Gluconacetobacter) (Z. Gromet-Elhanan, S. Hestrin, Synthesis of cellulose by Acetobacter Xylinum, J. Bacteriol. 85, 284-292, 1963; US 5 962 277).

The main species used is Acetobacter xylinum, although others may also produce biocellulose, for example Acetobacter pasteurianus.

The conditions for culturing this bacterium to produce biocellulose are known, especially from the publication Factors affecting the yield and properties of bacterial cellulose, A. Krystynowicz et al, J. Indus. Microbiol. Biotech. 29, 189-195, 2002.

JP 70393886 discloses a process for manufacturing biocellulose.

Biocellulose is in particular known for its cicatrizing properties. Thus, patent application US 2005/0 019 380 describes a dressing, especially for aesthetic purposes, comprising bio cellulo se . Patent application FR 2 936 714 describes the use of a biocellulose patch comprising an energy source, in particular in LED form. Neither the use of fractional laser nor the use of microneedles is described in said document.

Biocellulose may be used in pure form or in a form combined with other types of fibre, for example fibres of natural origin, for example fibres derived from corn, hemp, flax, cotton, jute, kenaf, raffia, ramie, Panama-hat palm, sisal, rush, esparto grass, phormium, coconut, wool, silk, soya, abaca, kumazasa, persimmon, kapok, burdock, cereal or bamboo fibres.

The biocellulose fibres may be loose or bound together and/or bound to other fibres.

Biocellulose may be used in sheet form, obtained, for example, by compacting a culture of biocellulose fibres, after rinsing them.

The biocompatibility of biocellulose with the skin is ensured by a sterile manufacturing process. Preferably, the sterile biocellulose does not comprise any preserving agents. Thus, it is advantageously conditioned in sterile form, especially in a hermetically sealed case.

Hydro gel

The hydrogel may comprise a superabsorbent material. The term "superabsorbent material" means a material with a very high capacity for absorbing a liquid, and especially water. In particular, it may have the capacity of absorbing at least 15 times or even 20 or 50 times its own weight of water, for example from about 25 to 30 times.

Patent application FR 2 876 587 describes a method for determining the absorption capacity of a superabsorbent material.

The superabsorbent material may be chosen from cellulose derivatives, alginates and derivatives thereof, especially derivatives such as propylene glycol alginate, or salts thereof such as sodium alginate or calcium alginate, polyacrylic or polymethacrylic acid derivatives, polyacrylamide derivatives, polyvinylpyrrolidone derivatives and polyvinyl ether derivatives, and mixtures thereof, inter alia.

The superabsorbent material may be chosen especially from chemically modified cellulose derivatives. It may be chosen especially from carboxymethylcellulose, sodium carboxymethylcellulose, carboxymethylhydroxyethylcellulose, carboxyethylcellulose, hydroxy ethylcellulose, hydroxy ethylethylcellulo se, hydroxypropylcellulose, hydroxypropylmethylcellulose, methylcellulose, sodium methylcellulose, microcrystalline cellulose and sodium cellulose sulfate, and mixtures thereof.

It may also be chosen from alkyl celluloses. These polymers are obtained by grafting an alkyl residue onto one or more hydroxyl groups of the cellulose polymer to form the hydroxyalkyl derivative. These alkyl residues may be chosen from stearyl, isostearyl, lauryl, myristyl, cetyl, isocetyl, cocoyl, palmityl, oleyl, linoleyl, ricinoleyl and behenyl groups, and mixtures thereof. These hydroxyalkyl cellulose derivatives may also undergo a chemical modification with, for example, a carboxylic residue.

It may also be chosen from natural polymer derivatives, for instance gelatin and glucomannan and galactomannans polysaccharides extracted from seeds, plant fibres, fruit, marine algae, starch or plant resins, or alternatively of microbial origin. It may be chosen, for example, from agarose gum, guar gum, gum tragacanth, carrageenan gum, konjac gum, locust bean gum, gellan gum and xanthan gum, and mixtures thereof.

In one implementation example of the invention, the superabsorbent material is a chemically modified cellulose derivative, especially carboxymethylcellulose.

In one implementation example, the superabsorbent material comprises fibres. These fibres may be woven or bound together other than by weaving, for example via a bonding process used for the manufacture of nonwovens.

The fibres made of superabsorbent material may constitute at least 80% by weight, or even more, of the sheet material before impregnation with the liquid. For example, they may constitute at least 90%, or even at least 99% by weight, of the sheet material before impregnation with the liquid. The sheet material be constituted essentially of such fibres. A high proportion of fibres may facilitate the production of a visually attractive effect at the time of use, the sheet material passing from an opaque state to a translucent or transparent state.

In one variant, the hydrogel may comprise polyglutamic acid (Bio PGA solution from Ichimaru Pharcos).

Presentation

The material to be applied to the skin is preferably in sheet material form at the time of use, especially a patch or mask. The thickness of the sheet in the hydrated state is, for example, between 0.1 mm and 5 mm. When it is desired to prolong the cutaneous heat-absorbing effect, its thickness may be increased.

The sheet, in mask or patch form, may be refrigerated before being applied to the skin.

The mask or patch may be constituted exclusively by the hydrogel or biocellulose.

In one variant, the sheet material comprises a support, for example a textile wrap or a foam made of thermoplastic material, containing the aqueous material or consolidating it.

The sheet material preferably comprises interlaced microfibrils, preferably biocellulose, the weight of which is between 1% and 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the ready-to-use hydrated sheet material.

The sheet material may be preformed or precut, for example delivered to the user in the form of a face with openings for the eyes, the nose and/or the mouth.

The sheet material may be supplied to the user in wet form, optionally impregnated with a composition containing an active agent, it merely remaining for the user to apply it to the region to be treated.

As a variant, the sheet material may have to be impregnated at the time of the use by pouring water or a composition onto it, or by placing the composition onto a region of skin and then applying the sheet material to this region of skin.

The sheet material may be conditioned in a sterile manner, individually or several together. The sheet material may especially be conditioned in individual sachets.

The sheet material to be applied to the skin may be sold to the user with the means for achieving the fractional treatment, especially with the fractional laser.

Application of the material

Preferably, the application of the material takes place at least after the fractional treatment, especially by fractional laser, and preferably intervenes within a time period after the end of the fractional treatment of less than or equal to 30 minutes, or even less than or equal to 15 minutes.

The term "end of the fractional treatment" should be understood as meaning the end of a treatment session, given that there are several sessions and that these sessions may be repeated at time intervals of several days, for example one or two weeks, or even two weeks to one month.

The material is preferably left in place for at least 5 minutes, or even at least 10 minutes, on the skin after it has been applied. According to one implementation example of the invention, the material is left in place for between 10 and 20 minutes after a fractional treatment session. According to another example, it is left in place for between 10 and 45 minutes after a fractional treatment session.

Where appropriate, the material may also be applied before fractional treatment, and as a variant before and after fractional treatment.

In the case of an application before fractional treatment, the material is applied, for example, less than 30 minutes before, especially just before, the start of the fractional treatment, or between 5 minutes and 1 hour before, the material being left in place, for example, for between 5 and 45 minutes, or even between 10 and 20 minutes.

The zone that has undergone the fractional treatment preferably receives at least one active agent, which may benefit from a reduction of the skin barrier function in order to penetrate therein more easily. The application of the material may or may not take place in combination with the application of an active agent.

In the case where the material is applied before and after treatment, the material may contain different active agents. For example, before fractional treatment, a first material contains an active agent intended to exert a peeling action, chosen, for example, from dioic acid, vitamin C and retinol, and combinations thereof, and after fractional treatment, a second material containing a regenerative active agent, chosen, for example, from vitamin C, vitamin E and ferulic acid, and combinations thereof.

Active agents

In certain embodiments of the process according to the invention, the effect of the fractional laser treatment or other means for performing the fractional treatment may be potentiated by the application, to the treated skin, of a cosmetic composition with remodelling and/or regenerative action on the dermis and/or the epidermis and/or anti- ageing action and/or depigmenting action and/or antimicrobial action and/or antiacne action and/or calmative action.

Such a cosmetic composition comprises an active agent or a combination of active agents, the active agent(s) possibly being chosen from anti-ageing active agents, photoprotective active agents, active agents with moisturizing or immunomodulatory properties (including hydrating or humidifying active agents), active agents for improving the natural liquid barrier, free-radical-scavenging or antioxidant active agents, active agents for stimulating the synthesis of dermal and/or epidermal macromolecules and/or for preventing their degradation, pain-attenuating active agents, regenerative active agents, surface-exfoliant active agents, anti-wrinkle active agents, tautening active agents, calmative active agents, anti-inflammatory active agents, sequestrant active agents and pH-regulating agents (acids or bases).

Among the anti-ageing active agents, mention may be made especially of food antioxidants, active agents with free-radical-scavenging properties and co factors of antioxidant endogenous enzymes: vitamin A, carotenoids, xanthophylls, isoflavones, certain minerals such as zinc, copper, magnesium or selenium, lipoic acid, coenzyme Q10, superoxide dismutase (SOD) or taurine. Among the anti-ageing active agents, mention may be made especially of the unsaponifiable fractions extracted from lipids of plant origin, Aloe vera, native or hydrolysed marine collagen, and plant or marine oils rich in omega-3 and omega-6 fatty acids (including gamma- lino lenic acid).

Among the photoprotective active agents, mention may be made especially of antioxidants and free-radical scavengers: vitamin A, carotenoids, xanthophylls, certain minerals such as zinc, copper, magnesium and selenium, coenzyme Q10, superoxide dismutase (SOD) and probiotics.

Among the active agents with hydrating or immunomodulatory properties, mention may be made of probiotics, an extract of Polypodium leucotomos, and plant or marine oils rich in ω-3 and ω-6 fatty acids, including gamma- lino lenic acid. Humectants or moisturizers that may especially be mentioned include urea and derivatives thereof, especially 2-hydroxy ethyl urea sold under the name Hydro vance^® by National Starch, monosaccharides such as mannose, hyaluronic acid, AHAs, BHAs, acrylic acid homopolymers such as poly-2-(methacryloyloxyethyl)phosphorylcholine sold under the name Lipidure-HM^® by the company NOF Corporation, β-glucan and in particular sodium carboxymethyl β-glucan from Mibelle-AG-Biochemistry; a polyoxybutylene polyoxy ethylene polyoxypropylene glycerol, for instance PEG/PPG/polybutylene glycol- 8/5/3 glycerol distributed under the name Wilbride S-753L^® from NOF Corporation, a musk rose oil sold by Nestle; collagen and chondroitin sulfate spheres of marine origin (Atelocollagen) sold by the company Engelhard Lyon under the name Spheres de Comblement Marines; hyaluronic acid spheres such as those sold by the company Engelhard Lyon. A polyol or glycerol may also be used as moisturizing active agent.

Among the active agents for improving the natural liquid barrier, mention may be made of ceramides, ceramide derivatives, cholesteryl sulfates and/or fatty acids, and mixtures thereof. The compounds of ceramide type include natural or synthetic ceramides and/or glycoceramides and/or pseudoceramides and/or neoceramides, and derivatives thereof. Compounds of ceramide type are described, for example, in patent applications DE 4424530, DE 4424533, DE 4402929, DE 4420736, WO 95/23807, WO 94/07844, EP 0 646 572, WO 95/16665, FR 2 673179, EP 0 227 994, WO 94/07844, WO 94/24097 and WO 94/1013. Compounds of ceramide type especially include the ceramide is and/or glycoceramides whose structure is described by Downing in the Journal of Lipid Research Vol. 35, 2060-2068, 1994, or those described in French patent application FR-2 673 179. Use may also be made of specific mixtures, for instance mixtures of ceramide(s) 2 and of ceramide(s) 5 according to the Downing classification. Use may also be made of the compounds of formula (I) described in patent applications EP-A-0227994, EP-A-0 647 617, EP-A-0 736 522 and WO 94/07844. Such compounds are, for example, Questamide H (bis(N-hydroxyethyl-N-cetyl)malonamide) sold by the company Quest, and cetylic acid N-(2-hydroxyethyl)-N-(3-cetyloxy-2- hydroxypropyl)amide. Use may also be made of N-docosanoyl-N-methyl-D-glucamine described in patent application WO 94/24097. Use may also be made of the compound of general formula (II) described in patent applications EP A-500 437 and EP A-547 617. The compounds of ceramide type include N-oleoyldihydrosphingosine or N-2- hydroxypalmitoyldihydrosphingosine, and preferably N-2- hydroxypalmitoyldihydrosphingosine.

Preferred antioxidants that may be mentioned more particularly include tocopherol and esters thereof, in particular tocopheryl acetate; EDTA, ascorbic acid and derivatives thereof, in particular magnesium ascorbyl phosphate and ascorbyl glucoside; chelating agents, such as BHT, BHA and N,N'-bis(3,4,5- trimethoxybenzyl)ethylenediamine and salts thereof, and mixtures thereof. Among the free-radical scavenging or antioxidant active agents, mention may be made of polyphenols and in particular flavonoids, flavonols, anthocyanidins and flavanols. Among the polyphenols of interest, mention may be made of chlorogenic acid, procyanidins Bl and B2, epicatechin, phloretin, phloridzin (glycosyl derivative of phloretin), hesperidin, neohesperidin, hesperetin and p-coumaric acid. An antioxidant complex comprising vitamins C and E, and at least one carotenoid, especially a carotenoid chosen from β- carotene, lycopene, astaxanthin, zeaxanthin and lutein, flavonoids such as catechins, hesperidin, proanthocyanidins and anthocyanins, lipoic acid and coenzyme Q10 may be used in particular.

As active agents for stimulating the synthesis of dermal and/or epidermal macro molecules and/or for preventing their degradation, mention may be made of: peptides extracted from plants, such as the soybean hydrolysates sold by the company BASF Beauty Care Solutions under the trade name Phytokine^® the malt extract as sold under the trade name Collalift^® by the company Engelhard Lyon; rice peptides such as Nutripeptide^® from Silab, or alternatively a rice peptide extract such as Colhibin^® Pentapharm DSM, methylsilanol mannuronate such as Algisium C^® sold by Exsymol; an extract of Vaccinium myrtillus such as the products described in patent application FR-A-2 814 950; the lupin extract sold by the company Silab under the trade name Structurine^®, and mixtures thereof.

As pain-attenuating active agents, use may be made of an extract of Iris, a spring water (including la Roche Posay spring water), lidocaine, prilocaine and a mixture of lidocaine and prilocaine.

As regenerative active agents, use may be made of vitamin C, retinol or a retinol derivative.

As surface exfoliants, use may be made of salicylic acid, lactic acid, dioic acid or octadecenedioic acid, glycolic acid, mandelic acid, capryloylsalicylic acid, jasmonic acid, urea or 5-n-octanoylsalicylic acid.

As anti-wrinkle active agents, use may be made of desquamating agents; antiglycation agents; NO-synthase inhibitors; agents for stimulating the synthesis of dermal or epidermal macromolecules and/or for preventing their degradation; agents for stimulating fibroblast and/or keratinocyte proliferation; agents for stimulating or reducing keratinocyte differentiation; muscle relaxants and/or dermo-decontracting agents; free- radical scavengers; and mixtures thereof. Examples of such compounds are: adenosine, retinol and derivatives thereof such as retinol palmitate, ascorbic acid and derivatives thereof, such as magnesium ascorbyl phosphate and ascorbyl glucoside; tocopherol and derivatives thereof, such as tocopheryl acetate; nicotinic acid and precursors thereof, such as nicotinamide; ubiquinone; glutathione and precursors thereof, such as L-2-oxothiazolidine-4-carboxylic acid; C-beta-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane as described especially in patent application EP-1 345 919; plant extracts and especially extracts of sea fennel and of olive leaf, and also plant proteins and hydrolysates thereof, such as rice or soybean protein hydrolysates; algal extracts and in particular laminaria extracts; bacterial extracts; sapogenins, such as diosgenin and extracts of Dioscorea plants, in particular of wild yam, containing the same; a-hydroxy acids; β-hydroxy acids such as salicylic acid and 5-n- octanoylsalicylic acid; oligopeptides and pseudodipeptides and acyl derivatives thereof, in particular {2- [acetyl-(3 -trifluoromethylphenyl)amino] -3 -methylbutyrylamino } acetic acid, hyaluronic acid fragments, sphingosines such as salicyloylphytosphingosine; and mixtures thereof.

The term "tautening agent" that may be used in a cosmetic composition according to the invention means compounds liable to have a tautening effect, i.e. being able to make the skin taut. Such compounds are described, for example, in patent EP 2 026 882.

Examples of additional anti-wrinkle active agents that may be used according to the invention are: ascorbic acid and derivatives thereof, such as magnesium ascorbyl phosphate and ascorbyl glucoside; tocopherol and derivatives thereof, such as tocopheryl acetate; nicotinic acid and precursors thereof, such as nicotinamide; ubiquinone; glutathione and precursors thereof, such as L-2-oxothiazolidine-4-carboxylic acid; C- glycoside compounds and derivatives thereof, as especially described below; plant extracts and especially extracts of sea fennel and of olive leaf, and also plant proteins and hydrolysates thereof, such as rice or soybean protein hydrolysates; algal extracts and in particular laminaria extracts; bacterial extracts; sapogenins, such as diosgenin and extracts of Dioscorea plants, in particular of wild yam, containing the same; a-hydroxy acids; β- hydroxy acids such as salicylic acid and 5-n-octanoylsalicylic acid; oligopeptides and pseudodipeptides and acyl derivatives thereof, in particular {2-[acetyl-(3- trifluoromethylphenyl)amino] -3 -methylbutyrylamino} acetic acid and the lipopeptides sold by the company Sederma under the trade names Matrixyl 500 and Matrixyl 3000; lycopene; manganese and magnesium salts, in particular the gluconates; and mixtures thereof.

As calmatives that may be used in the composition used according to the invention, mention may be made of pentacyclic triterpenes and plant extracts (e.g.: Glycyrrhiza glabra) containing the same, for instance β-glycyrrhetinic acid and salts and/or derivatives thereof (glycyrrhetinic acid monoglucuronide, stearyl glycyrrhetinate, 3-stearoyloxyglycyrrhetic acid), ursolic acid and salts thereof, oleanolic acid and salts thereof, betulinic acid and salts thereof, an extract of Paeonia suffruticosa and/or lactiflora, salicylic acid salts and in particular zinc salicylate, phycosaccharides from the company Codif, an extract of Laminaria saccharina, canola oil, bisabolol and extracts of camomile, allantoin, Sepivital EPC (phosphoric diester of vitamins E and C) from SEPPIC, omega-3 unsaturated oils such as musk rose oil, blackcurrant oil, ecchium oil, fish oil, plankton extracts, capryloylglycine, Seppicalm VG (sodium palmitoylproline and Nymphea alba) from SEPPIC, an extract of Pygeum, an extract of Boswellia serrata, an extract of Centipeda cunninghami, an extract of Helianthus annuus, an extract of Linum usitatissimum, tocotrienols, extracts of Cola nitida, piperonal, an extract of clove, an extract of Epilobium angustifolium, Aloe vera, an extract of Bacopa moniera, phytosterols, cortisone, hydrocortisone, indomethacin and betamethasone.

As anti-inflammatory active agents, use may be made of glycyrrhetic acid,

KPV tripeptide or a derivative of KPV tripeptide, a phycosaccharide, an extract of rose, vitamin B3, procysteine or L-2-oxothiazolidine-4-carboxylic acid.

As sequestrant active agents, use may be made of polyaspartic acid or a salt thereof, a cellulose derivative (e.g. carboxymethylcellulose), copolymers containing hydroxysuccinic acid monomer units and maleic acid monomer units, or salts thereof.

As acid pH-regulating agent, use may be made of citric acid, lactic acid, malic acid, glycolic acid, mandelic acid or salicylic acid.

As base pH-regulating agent, use may be made of disodium phosphate or sodium hydroxide.

As active agents that are conventionally used in a cosmetic composition of the invention, mention may be made of vitamins B3, B5, B6, B8, C, D, E and PP, niacin, carotenoids, polyphenols, minerals and trace elements, phytoestrogens, proteins and amino acids, mono- and polysaccharides, amino sugars, phytosterols and triterpenic alcohols of plant origin.

The minerals and trace elements that may be included in a cosmetic composition used according to the invention include the products zinc, calcium, magnesium, copper, iron, iodine, manganese, selenium and chromium (III).

Among the polyphenols, polyphenols from grape, from tea, from olive, from cocoa, from coffee, from apple, from blueberry, from elderberry, from strawberry, from cranberry and from onion are also selected in particular. Preferably, among the plant oestrogens, isoflavones in free or glycosylated form, such as genistein, daidzein or glycitein, or lignans, in particular those from flax and from Schizandra chinensis, are selected.

A cosmetic composition according to the invention may also comprise amino acids or peptides and proteins containing them, such as taurine, threonine, cysteine, tryptophan and methionine.

A cosmetic composition according to the invention may also comprise a lipid or a mixture of lipids. The lipids preferably belong to the group of oils containing monounsaturated and polyunsaturated fatty acids, such as oleic acid, linoleic acid, alpha- linolenic acid, gamma- lino lenic acid, stearidonic acid, long-chain fish omega-3 fatty acids such as EPA and DHA, and conjugated fatty acids derived from plants or animals such as CLA (conjugated linoleic acid).

A cosmetic composition according to the invention may also comprise one or more active agents chosen from a prebiotic or a mixture of prebiotics. More particularly, these prebiotics may be chosen from oligosaccharides, produced from glucose, galactose, xylose, maltose, sucrose, lactose, starch, xylan, hemicellulose, inulin, gums of acacia type, for example, or a mixture thereof.

More particularly, the oligosaccharide comprises at least one fructo- oligosaccharide. More particularly, this prebiotic may comprise a mixture of fructo- oligosaccharide and of inulin.

In the topical galenical forms, it is more particularly possible to use as hydrophilic active agents proteins or protein hydrolysates, amino acids, polyols, especially of C₂ to Cio, for instance glycerol, sorbitol, butylene glycol or polyethylene glycol, urea, allantoin, sugars and sugar derivatives, water-soluble vitamins, starch, and bacterial or plant extracts, for instance those from Aloe vera.

As regards the lipophilic active agents, retinol (vitamin A) and derivatives thereof, tocopherol (vitamin E) and derivatives thereof, ceramides, essential oils and unsaponifiable materials (tocotrienol, sesamine, gamma-oryzanol, phytosterols, squalenes, waxes and terpenes) may be used.

It is also advantageously possible to combine the product with active agents that are capable of acting:

either directly on desquamation by promoting exfoliation, such as β- hydroxy acids, in particular salicylic acid and derivatives thereof (including 5-n- octanoylsalicylic acid); a-hydroxy acids, such as gly colic acid, citric acid, lactic acid, tartaric acid, malic acid or mandelic acid; urea and certain derivatives thereof; gentisic acid; oligofucoses; cinnamic acid; dioic acid, extract of Saphora japonica; resveratrol, detergents and certain jasmonic acid derivatives;

- and/or on the activities of enzymes involved in the degradation of corneodesmosomes, such as stratum corneum chymotryptic enzyme (SCCE), or even other proteases (trypsin-like, chymotryptic-like, cathepsin D) and also other categories of hydrolases (e.g.: glycosidases, ceramidases). Mention may be made of mineral salt chelating agents such as EDTA; N-acyl-N,N',N'-ethylenediaminetriacetic acid; aminosulfonic compounds and in particular (N-2-hydroxyethylpiperazine-N-2- ethane)sulfonic acid (HEPES); 2-oxothiazolidine-4-carboxylic acid (procysteine) derivatives; derivatives of alpha-amino acids of glycine type (as described in EP 0 852 949, and also sodium methyl glycine diacetate sold by BASF under the trade name Trilon M^®); honey; sugar derivatives such as O-octanoyl-6-D-maltose and N-acetylglucosamine; urea certain derivatives thereof, for example Hydrovance; C-glycoside derivatives.

A cosmetic composition that is useful for performing the process according to the invention may, in certain embodiments, comprise one or more proteins and/or one or more peptides that are capable of preventing and/or treating the signs of ageing of the skin, such as plakoglobin or peptides derived from this protein, the protein HSP 27 (heat shock protein 27, also known as HSPB1 in man) or peptides derived from this protein, the protein lacritin or peptides derived from this protein, the protein CLSP (calmodulin-like skin protein) or peptides derived from this protein, and the protein desmoglein I (or DGI) or peptides derived from this protein.

A cosmetic composition that is useful for performing the process according to the invention may, in certain embodiments, comprise one or more probiotic microorganisms, such as microorganisms of the genus Bifidobacterium or Lactobacillus, or a lysate or a fraction derived from the said microorganisms. By way of illustration, the microorganisms of the genus Bifidobacterium may be chosen from the following species: Bifidobacterium longum, Bifidobacterium bifidum, Bifidobacterium breve, Bifidobacterium animalis, Bifidobacterium lactis, Bifidobacterium infantis, Bifidobacterium adolescentis, Bifidobacterium pseudocatenulatum and mixtures thereof. By way of illustration, the microorganisms of the genus Lactobacillus may be chosen from the following species: Lactobacillus johnsonii, Lactobacillus paracasei, Lactobacillus reuteri, Lactobacillus rhamnosus and mixtures thereof.

Other microorganisms or extracts of microorganisms, especially of Vitreoscilla filiformis, may be used for their properties for stimulating antimicrobial defences and/or stimulating the endogenous antioxidant defences, for instance SOD2.

The cosmetic compositions according to the invention may be in any galenical form normally available for the selected mode of administration.

The cosmetic compositions according to the invention, which are intended for topical application, may be aqueous, aqueous-alcoholic or oily solutions, dispersions of the solution type or dispersions of the lotion or serum type, emulsions of liquid or semi- liquid consistency of the milk type, obtained by dispersing a fatty phase in an aqueous phase (O/W), or vice versa (W/O), or suspensions or emulsions of soft, semi-solid or solid consistency of the cream type, emulsified or clear, aqueous-alcoholic nonaqueous- alcoholic aqueous or anhydrous gels, microemulsions, microcapsules, microparticles and nanoparticles, or vesicular dispersions of ionic and/or nonionic type.

These compositions are prepared according to the usual methods.

When the composition of the invention is an emulsion, the proportion of the fatty phase may range from 5% to 80% by weight and preferably from 5% to 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. The oils, emulsifiers and coemulsifiers used in the composition in emulsion form are chosen from those conventionally used in cosmetics and/or dermatology. The emulsifier and the coemulsifier may be present in the composition in a proportion ranging from 0.3% to 30% by weight and preferably from 0.5% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

When the composition of the invention is an oily solution or gel, the fatty phase may represent more than 90% of the total weight of the composition.

In a known manner, galenical forms intended for topical administration may also contain adjuvants that are common in the cosmetic, pharmaceutical and/or dermato logical field, such as hydrophilic or lipophilic gelling agents, hydrophilic or lipophilic active agents, preserving agents, antioxidants, solvents, fragrances, fillers, screening agents, bactericides, odor absorbers and dyestuffs. The amounts of these various adjuvants are those conventionally used in the field under consideration, for example from 0.01% to 20% of the total weight of the composition. Depending on their nature, these adjuvants may be introduced into the fatty phase and/or into the aqueous phase.

As fatty substances that may be used in the invention, mention may be made of mineral oils, for instance hydrogenated polyisobutene and liquid petroleum jelly, plant oils, for instance a liquid fraction of shea butter, sunflower oil and apricot kernel oil, animal oils, for instance perhydrosqualene, synthetic oils, especially purcellin oil, isopropyl myristate and ethylhexyl palmitate, unsaturated fatty acids and fluoro oils, for instance perfluoropolyethers. It is also possible to use fatty alcohols, fatty acids, for instance stearic acid, and, for example, waxes, especially paraffin wax, carnauba wax and beeswax. It is also possible to use silicone compounds, for instance silicone oils and for example cyclomethicone and dimethicone, and silicone waxes, resins and gums.

As emulsifiers that may be used in the invention, mention may be made, for example, of glyceryl stearate, polysorbate 60, the mixture of cetylstearyl alcohol/cetylstearyl alcohol oxyethylenated with 33 mol of ethylene oxide sold under the name Sinnowax AO^® by the company Henkel, the mixture of PEG-6/PEG-32/glycol stearate sold under the name Tefose^® 63 by the company Gattefosse, PPG-3 myristyl ether, silicone emulsifiers such as cetyl dimethicone copolyol, and sorbitan monostearate or tristearate, PEG-40 stearate and oxyethylenated (20 EO) sorbitan monostearate.

As solvents that may be used in the invention, mention may be made of lower alcohols, for instance ethanol, isopropanol and propylene glycol. A composition of the invention may also advantageously contain a spring and/or mineral water, chosen especially from Vittel water, waters from the Vichy basin and la Roche Posay water.

Hydrophilic gelling agents that may be mentioned include carboxylic polymers such as carbomer, acrylic copolymers such as acrylate/alkyl acrylate copolymers, polyacrylamides and especially the mixture of polyacrylamide, CI 3- 14 isoparaffin and laureth-7 sold under the name Sepigel 305^® by the company SEPPIC, polysaccharides, for instance cellulose derivatives such as hydroxyalkyl celluloses and in particular hydroxypropyl cellulose and hydroxyethyl cellulose, natural gums such as guar gum, locust bean gum and xanthan gum, and clays.

Lipophilic gelling agents that may be mentioned include modified clays, for instance bentones, metal salts of fatty acids, for instance aluminium stearates and hydrophobic silica, or else ethyl cellulose and polyethylene.

In a known manner, a cosmetic composition may also contain adjuvants that are common in the cosmetics field, such as hydrophilic or lipophilic gelling agents, hydrophilic or lipophilic additives, preserving agents, antioxidants, solvents, fragrances, fillers, screening agents, odour absorbers and dyestuffs, surfactants, polymers, oils, emollients, thickeners or complexing agents, this list not being limiting.

The amounts of the various constituents of the compositions according to the invention are those conventionally used in the fields under consideration.

In certain advantageous embodiments, a cosmetic composition suitable for implementation of the process according to the invention comprises at least one active agent chosen from Pro-Xylane^® (C-beta-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane), jasmonic acid, hydroxy)^' asmonic acid, Prolastyl^® ({2-acetyl-3-trifluoromethylphenyl)amino)-3- methylbutyrylamino} acetic acid), resveratrol, resveratrol glucoside, ferulic acid, phloretin, a ceramide, acetyl trifluoromethylphenyl valyl glycine, vitamin C, ethylvitamin C, vitamin E, hesperidin and neohesperidin.

In certain embodiments, the said cosmetic composition comprises a combination of vitamin C, vitamin E and ferulic acid. In these embodiments, the said cosmetic composition is preferentially in the form of a solution. A cosmetic composition of this type may comprise at least 10% by weight of vitamin C, at least 0.5% by weight of vitamin E and at least 0.1% by weight of ferulic acid, relative to the total weight of the composition.

According to one implementation example of the invention, the application of the aqueous material after fractional treatment takes place at the same time as the application of the cosmetic or dermatological active agent, for example by means of a sheet material containing both the hydrogel and/or biocellulose and the active agent being applied to the zone that has undergone the fractional treatment.

For example, a biocellulose mask is applied to the skin after fractional treatment, this biocellulose mask containing at least one cosmetic or dermatological active agent, for example a cosmetic composition comprising a combination of vitamin C, vitamin E and ferulic acid.

According to a preferred implementation example of the invention, the fractional treatment, especially by fractional laser, is performed, and the aqueous material is then applied and, after removing the material, the active agent is applied.

In one alternative or additional variant of the topical application of an active agent, the process according to the invention comprises the oral intake of a food additive and/or a probiotic intended to have a cosmetic action, for example skin-regenerative and/or anti-ageing and/or calmative action, this list not being limiting.

The microorganisms that are suitable for use in the invention are microorganisms that may be administered without risk to man or animals. Among the non- probiotic microorganisms mention is made of the Vitreoscilla filiformis bacteria especially as described in patent applications FR 2 879 452 and FR 2 914 189. In particular, use may be made in the present invention of at least one microorganism of "probiotic" type, i.e. a live microorganism which, when consumed in adequate amount, has a positive effect on the health of its host (Joint F AO/WHO Expert Consultation on Evaluation of Health and Nutritional Properties of Probiotic in Food Including Powder Milk with Live Lactic Acid Bacteria, October 6, 2001), and which may in particular improve the intestinal microbial equilibrium.

Specific examples of probiotic microorganisms are Bifidobacterium bifidum, Bifidobacterium infantis, Bifidobacterium longum, Lactobacillus acidophilus, Lactobacillus alimentarius, Lactobacillus casei subsp. Casei, Lactobacillus casei Shirota, Lactobacillus paracasei, Lactobacillus curvatus, Lactobacillus delbruckii subsp. Lactis, Lactobacillus gasseri, Lactobacillus johnsonii, Lactobacillus reuteri, Lactobacillus rhamnosus (Lactobacillus GG), Lactobacillus sake, Lactococcus lactis, Streptococcus thermophilus, Staphylococccus carnosus, and Staphylococcus xylosus, and mixtures thereof.

The microorganisms may be formulated in the form of powders, i.e. in a dry form, or in the form of suspensions or solutions.

If necessary, these microorganisms may be formulated within the compositions according to the invention in an encapsulated form so as to significantly improve their survival time. In such a case, the presence of a capsule may in particular retard or prevent the degradation of the microorganism in the gastrointestinal tract.

The species that are most particularly suitable for use are Lactobacillus johnsonii, Lactobacillus paracasei, Bifidobacterium adolescentis and Bifidobacterium longum, which were deposited, respectively, according to the treaty of Budapest, at the Institut Pasteur (28, rue du Docteur Roux, F-75024 Paris cedex 15) on 06/30/92, 01/12/99, 04/15/99 and 04/15/1999 under the following designations CNCM 1-1225, CNCM 1-2116, CNCM 1-2168 and CNCM 1-2170, and the species Bifidobacterium lactis (Bb 12) (ATCC27536) or Bifidobacterium longum (BB536). The strain of Bifidobacterium lactis (ATCC27536) may be obtained from Hansen (Chr. Hansen A/S, 10-12 Boege Alle, P.O. Box 407, DK-2970 Hoersholm, Denmark).

The composition may comprise at least two microorganisms, especially probiotic microorganisms, and/or various metabolites and/or fractions.

In the particular case of compositions that are to be administered orally, the concentration of microorganism(s), especially probiotic microorganisms, may be adjusted so as to correspond to doses (expressed as microorganism equivalents) ranging from 5x 10⁵ to 10¹³ cfu/day and in particular from 10⁷ to 10¹¹ cfu/day.

The microorganism(s) may be included in the composition according to the invention in a live, semi-active or inactivated, dead form.

For ingestion, numerous embodiments of oral compositions and especially of food supplements are possible. They are formulated via the usual processes for producing coated tablets, gel capsules, gels, emulsions, tablets, capsules or solutions. In particular, the active agent(s) according to the invention may be incorporated into any other form of food supplements or enriched foods, for example food bars, or compacted or non- compacted powders. The powders may be diluted with water, in soda, dairy products or soybean derivatives, or may be incorporated into food bars.

The active agents according to the invention may be formulated with the usual excipients and components for such oral compositions or food supplements, i.e. especially fatty and/or aqueous components, humectants, thickeners, preserving agents, texture agents, taste agents and/or coating agents, antioxidants, preserving agents and dyes that are common in the food sector.

According to another of its aspects, a subject of the invention is also a cosmetic skin treatment process, not for therapeutic purposes, following a fractional skin treatment, comprising the following steps:

applying to the area to be treated, after the fractional treatment, especially by fractional laser, a material comprising a hydrogel and/or biocellulose,

applying to the area to be treated, optionally in combination with the application of the material, an active agent preferably having epidermal and/or dermal regenerative action, depigmenting action, antiacne action, action intended to make the hair grow, hair-removing action, antidandruff action when it is on the scalp, exfoliants action, calmative action, stimulating the action on epidermal and/or dermal moisturization, especially hyaluronane synthase, inhibitory action on hyaluronidases and dermal regenerative or protective action especially by activating collagen and elastin syntheses and/or collagenase and elastase inhibitors and/or activating tissue and endogenous inhibitors of these proteases, or slimming action, the active agent being chosen especially from those described above.

Fractional treatment

Microneedles

The fractional treatment may be performed using microneedles. The microneedles may be solid (hollow or not hollow), for the purpose of microperforation, or soluble, enabling the ends to break off after perforation and formation of microimplants with gradual dissolution over time.

The microneedles may thus comprise an orifice for administering a composition containing an active agent as described above, or may be devoid of an orifice, the active agent then being deposited onto the surface of the microneedles as described in WO 2007/061 964. The microneedles may also be used as skin microperforators, facilitating the subsequent application of one or more active agents.

Soluble microneedles are described in the publications WO 2004/000 389, US 6 945 952, WO 2004/024 224, JP 2005/154321, WO 2007/023 167, US 2005/0 065 463 and WO 03/092 785. The constituent material of the microneedles which is claimed in JP 2005/154 321 is a mixture of maltose with a dextran or trehalose. WO 2007/023 167 describes microneedles based on a copolymer of lactic and gly colic acids. In this case, the constituent material acts solely as the inert excipient, intended to promote the release of the active agent. US 2005/0 065 463 especially teaches that the active agent is dispersed in the sugar matrix, preferentially homogeneously. WO 03/092 785 describes a combination of calcium phosphate with certain sugars to form microneedles in order to incorporate into the calcium phosphate pores biologically active molecules.

Laser

Very preferentially, the laser is preferred for performing the fractional treatment.

A fractional laser affects the surface of the stratum corneum so as to create by local photothermo lysis a plurality of spaced-apart pores in the upper layers of the skin.

Preferably, the fractional laser is non-ablative, this type of laser also been known as a remodelling fractional laser.

After the fractional treatment, the skin conserves its capacity to fight off infection. The increase in the permeability of the skin associated with the formation of the microwells by laser is reversible. The permeability may, for example, be increased for at least 1 hour, or even 2 hours, 6 hours, 12 hours, 1 day, 2 days or 5 days.

To fractionate the impacts and space them out over the skin, preferably evenly spaced, the laser may comprise a motorised scanner that comprises one or more rotary mirrors whose rotation speed causes scanning of the laser spot.

Depending on the fractional laser used, the scanning may take place along different paths: circular, rectangular or square scanning, or random scanning.

The fractional laser treatment may comprise several successive passes of the laser over a given area so as to obtain better homogeneity of the treatment. On each pass, new points of impact are created, spaced from the previous points of impact. An example of a non-ablative fractional laser is the machine sold by the company Solta under the brand name Fraxel re:store^® Dual (1927 nm).

Examples of fractional lasers are described in patent application US 2008/0 208 179 Al, especially in paragraphs [0104] to [0116]. The values indicated in these passages are applicable to the present invention.

The wavelength of the fractional laser is preferably in the IR range and may especially be between 1100 nm and 2500 nm. In implementation examples of the invention, the wavelength is equal to 1410 nm, 1435 nm, 1550 nm or 1927 nm.

The treatment depth may be between 200 μιη and 1.4 mm, better still 700 μιη and 1.4 mm. The treatment depth is, for example, about 555 μιη, 794 μιη or 1120 μιη.

A greater treatment depth and wider wells are obtained when the light power is stronger. The size of a microwell ranges, for example, from 0.5 μιη in diameter to 500 μιη in diameter. Preferably, the size ranges from 50 to 350 μιη.

The density of the microwells (also known as pores) created by the fractional treatment is, for example, between 100 and 10 000 microwells per cm² and better still between 100 and 2000.

The irradiance, which measures the power density received by the skin to be treated, is preferably between 25 kW/cm² and 4 MW/cm².

The fluence of the laser treatment, which measures the energy density received on the area of skin to be treated, is preferably between 4 kJ/cm² and 160 kJ/cm².

The energy of a laser pulse to create a microwell ranges, for example, from 0.1 mJ to 50 mJ.

In one preferred example, the laser is a Fraxel re: store^® Dual laser user with a wavelength of 1927 nm and a power per pulse of 10 mJ.

According to one aspect of the invention, the fractional treatment, when it is performed using a fractional laser, may comprise the step consisting in emitting the laser radiation through a thickness of the aqueous material, especially biocellulose.

The choice of the thickness of the material through which the laser radiation passes may be made, for example, as a function of the power of the laser radiation and of the desired treatment depth.

Thus, for thin skin, the thickness of the material may be, for equivalent laser power, increased so as to reduce the penetration of the laser radiation into the skin. Several sheet materials of different thicknesses may be proposed to the user in order to enable him to choose the thickness that is suitable for the treatment to be performed.

Treated areas

The invention makes it possible to treat the face, especially the area around the eyes, the cheeks, the lips or any other part of the body, especially the neckline or the hands, and also thinned areas of the scalp, or the armpits.

Treatment system

An object of the invention is also a treatment system for performing a process according to the invention, comprising a treatment assembly comprising the material to be applied to the skin, either in hydrated form or in a form to be hydrated extemporaneously, and a means for performing the fractional treatment, for example microneedles or a fractional laser. For example, the fractional laser is proposed to the user with the hydrogel and/or the active agent within the same conditioning.

Additional light treatment

The area of skin that has undergone the fractional treatment may be exposed to a light treatment that does not generate any significant increase in the temperature of the skin.

This light treatment may also be performed before the fractional treatment.

Preferably, the light is monochromatic at ± 10 nm, preferably with a wavelength of 592 nm ± 10 nm.

The fluence of the additional light treatment is, for example, less than or equal to 5 J/cm² and better still 0.5 J/cm².

The light power received, excluding the fractional treatment, on the area of treating skin is, for example, between 1 mW/cm² and 50 mW/cm². The light may be emitted in pulsed manner, the duration of each light pulse being between 100 and 250 milliseconds.

The pulsed light may comprise, for example, 100 pulses of 250 ms of light, with 100 ms of extinction between each pulse, over a treatment phase of at least 30 seconds, for example 35 seconds.

This additional treatment may be performed by placing in front of the area to be treated one or more light sources which emit at the desired wavelength, for example several LEDs arranged on a panel placed in front of the area to be treated, without coming into contact with it.

The treatment may also be performed with a device brought very close to the area to be treated, for example forming a mask or patch to be placed in contact with the area to be treated and comprising an artificial source of electromagnetic energy, so as to submit the skin to such a light radiation, in particular one or more electroluminescent components such as pulsed or non-pulsed LED or OLED diodes. The use of OLED may make it possible to produce a flexible support that is capable of conforming to the relief of the area to be treated.

The emission of light may take place through the sheet material comprising or constituted by the hydrogel.

Independently of or in combination with the foregoing, a subject of the invention is thus also, according to another of its aspects, a device to be applied to the skin (including the lips), comprising:

- a source of light energy integrated into the device,

a sheet material comprising biocellulose, in particular constituted by biocellulose, to be brought into contact with the skin.

The source of light energy may comprise at least one electroluminescent component of LED or OLED type, as mentioned above.

The invention may be better understood from reading the following detailed description of non-limiting implementation examples thereof, and with reference to the attached drawing, in which:

- Figure 1 shows an example of a treatment system according to the invention,

- Figure 2 shows various cross sections of sheet materials,

- Figure 3 shows a face undergoing fractional laser treatment,

- Figure 4 shows the detail IV of Figure 3, and

- Figure 5 shows, in partial diagrammatic cross section, in example of sheet material intended to be applied against the area of skin to be treated.

The treatment system 100 shown in Figure 1 is a system of professional type comprising a laser 2 comprising a treatment head 20, and a treatment kit 1 comprising an aqueous material, for example a hydrogel, in the form of a sheet material 10 preferably constituted by biocellulose and at least one composition in at least one container 30, comprising at least one active agent to be applied before and/or after the fractional laser treatment.

The treatment head 20 is connected to a fixed post, for example via an articulated arm or a gooseneck enabling it to be oriented easily toward the area to be treated. The fixed post may comprise a selector for choosing between several types of treatment, which differ, for example, by the intensity, the wavelength or the duration.

The laser 2 is, for example, a Fraxel ^® re: store^® Dual laser from the company

Solta.

In the example of Figure 1, the sheet material 10 is a mask precut in the shape of a face, which is contained beforehand in a sterile sachet 15 in hydrated form.

Figure 2 shows other examples of sheet materials 10 corresponding to the treatment of a hand or a neckline.

The composition(s) contained in the container(s) 30 are intended to be used either before the fractional treatment to prepare the skin, or immediately after the fractional treatment and the application of the sheet material, or alternatively to hydrate the sheet material 10.

In one variant, not shown, the laser 2 is adapted for domestic use.

The laser treatment head 20 optionally comprises a positioning means for holding the optical system at a constant nonzero distance from the skin.

For the treatment, the laser head performs, on each pass over an area, a sweep of the laser beam over the skin, the user performing one or more passes over each area.

The passage over an area may leave on the skin regular red points, materializing the points of laser impact.

Figure 3 shows a face undergoing fractional laser treatment. Only part of the areas has already been treated. In the illustrated example, the treatment takes place in each area by means of a scan delimited by a rectangle.

Figure 4 shows that the microwells p of each area are separated after a passage by a nonzero spacing /.

Figure 5 shows in partial cross section a sheet material variant comprising an electroluminescent component 50 of OLED type and a substrate 11 comprising or constituted by biocellulose or a hydrogel. The component 50 preferably emits at 592 nm ± 10 nm, in a pulsed manner, as described above.

The emitted light reaches the skin through the substrate 11, due to its transparency.

EXAMPLES

Example 1

According to this example, the routine below comprising the following successive steps is performed several times, for example between 4 and 6 times:

a) treatment for 3 to 30 minutes of the face, especially of pigmentation marks, wrinkles or acne, using a Fraxel Clear + Brilliant 1435 nm, 3W, 4-9 mJ laser,

b) application of a hydrated biocellulose mask, for example an XCell patch from Xylos, for 15 minutes. The mask it is applied for less than 30 minutes, preferably immediately after the end of the laser treatment.

In one variant, the mask has a water content of greater than 90% and is made from a sheet of biocellulose obtained by static fermentation in aerobic medium of a strain of Acetobacter Xylinum (strain ATCC23767). The biocellulose plaque obtained after fermentation is rinsed with distilled water, washed with a dilute solution and then neutralized with an acetic acid solution. After rinsing with distilled water, the biocellulose plaque is in the form of a sheet about 2 mm thick. The biocellulose then undergoes sterilization with humid heat in an autoclave at 121 °C for 20 minutes. After removing the mask, application of an antioxidant solution I containing 10% to 20% (by mass) of vitamin C combined with 0.5% to 2% of vitamin E and 0.1% to 1% of ferulic acid.

The treatment a) to c) above may be completed by the daily or twice-daily application in the morning of a cleanser based on nonaggressive surfactant sold by the company SkinCeuticals under the name Gentle Cleanser, followed by application of solution I above, and application of a daily photo protective product, for example with a protection factor SPF50 based on titanium dioxide.

Example 2

The following steps are performed:

a) Preparation one week to a few hours before the laser treatment of the surface of the skin using gentle peeling by means of a biocellulose mask impregnated with dioic acid, vitamin C and retinol. b) Treatment of the area to be treated using the fractional laser. c) Application from a few minutes up to three days after step b), and for 10 to 20 minutes, of a regenerative biocellulose mask impregnated with composition I above.

d) Application from a few hours up to 15 days after step b) of a biocellulose mask left in place for 10 to 20 minutes.

e) Application of a new biocellulose mask targeting and re-educating the epidermal homeostasis, impregnated with a composition comprising thermal plankton extracted from Vitreoscilla filiformis to a final concentration of 0.1% and retinyl palmitate at a concentration of 0.05%.

This biocellulose mask is left in place for 10 to 20 minutes. It is ideally applied once or twice a day, for 1 to 2 weeks after the application of the regenerative biocellulose mask.

The application of such a mask enables renewal of the skin matrix and protects the skin between each laser treatment.

Example 3

Rather than composition I of step c) of Example 2, a solution containing in replacement or in addition one of the active agents from chosen from Pro-xylane, hydroxy)^' asmonic acid, Prolastyl and resveratrol mucoside, is applied.

For example, composition IV is applied (the proportions are given on a mass basis):

A - Water 63.96%

Glycerol 3%

Potassium cetyl phosphate 0.5%>

Preserving agents 0.5%> Sodium hydroxide 0.04%

B - PEG-20 Stearate 0.4%

Glyceryl stearate, PEG- 100 stearate 2%

Cetyl alcohol 1% Stearic acid 3%

Hydrogenated polyisobutene 5%

Dimethicone 9% C - Polyacrylamide (and) C 13 - 14 Isoparaffm (and) Laureth-7 1.6%

D - Pro-Xylane 10% Procedure

Phase A is heated with stirring to 80°C until fully homogenized.

Phase B is heated with stirring at 80°C until a homogeneous phase is obtained, and is then added to phase A with stirring.

The gelling agent (phase C) is then added and the mixture is cooled to room temperature.

Phase D is then added to complete the formulation.

Example 4

After a fractional treatment, and application of a biocellulose mask, as in steps a) and b) of Example 1, the mask is subjected during its application to pulsed orange light of wavelength 592 nm, for one or more phases of 35 seconds, the duration of the light pulses being 250 ms, separated by extinction times of 100 ms, with 100 light pulses over 35 seconds, the power being 4 mW/cm² approximately. This very short treatment, all the more so if it is performed through a mask, does not cause any significant increase in the temperature of the skin.

Example 5

After fractional treatment as in Example 1 and application of the biocellulose mask, a food supplement is taken orally, which is intended to reinforce the dermal firmness and regeneration, for example the nutritional supplement Ineov Fermete sold by the Laboratoires Inneov.

The invention is not limited to the examples that have just been given. The process may be performed, for example, in a beauty salon. In one variant, the process may be performed directly by the user.

In particular, the examples may be reproduced with a hydrogel instead of biocellulose. Active agents other than those mentioned in the examples may be used.

The treatment according to the invention may be implemented in vivo, but also on samples ex vivo and vitro. The expression "comprising a" should be understood as being synonymous with "comprising at least one".

Claims

1. A cosmetic skin treatment process, for nontherapeutic purposes, comprising the following steps:

- performing a fractional treatment of the skin so as to reduce the barrier function of the skin,

applying to the area to be treated or that has been treated, before, during or after the fractional treatment, an aqueous material comprising a hydrogel and/or biocellulose.

2. The process as claimed in the preceding claim, the material comprising or being constituted by biocellulose.

3. The process as claimed in claim 1 or 2, the fractional treatment being performed using a laser, especially a laser of Fraxel^® type.

4. The process as claimed in the preceding claim, several passes of the laser being performed over the same area during the treatment.

5. The process as claimed in claim 1 or 2, the fractional treatment being performed using microneedles.

6. The process as claimed in any one of the preceding claims, comprising the application of a cosmetic active agent, optionally in combination with the application of the aqueous material, the active agent preferably being chosen from regenerative active agents, anti-inflammatory agents, pain attenuators, depigmenting agents, antiacne agents, calmative agents, agents for stimulating epidermal and/or dermal moisturization, especially hyaluronane synthases, hyaluronidase inhibitors and dermal regenerative or protective agents especially by activating collagen and elastin syntheses, collagenase and elastase inhibitors and/or activators of tissue and endogenous inhibitors of these proteases, a slimming agents, an exfoliant agent, a nutritional supplement, an antidandruff agent or an agent for promoting hair growth when the scalp is involved, or a hair-removing agent.

7. The process as claimed in claim 6, the active agent being chosen from: Pro-Xylane, hydroxy)^' asmonic acid, resveratrol, ferulic acid, phloretin, ceramides, acetyl trifluoromethylphenyl valylglycine, ethylvitamin C, hesperidin or neohesperidin.

8. The process as claimed in any one of the preceding claims, also comprising a treatment of the treated area or of the area to be treated by exposure to light with a fluence of less than or equal to 5 J/cm², better still 0.5 J/cm², preferably at a wavelength equal to 592 nm ± 10 nm, and more preferably pulsed light.

9. The process as claimed in the preceding claim, the light treatment being performed while the aqueous material is in contact with the area to be treated or the treated area, the light radiation passing through the aqueous material.

10. The process as claimed in any one of claims 1 to 9, except claim 5, the fractional treatment being performed using a fractional laser through the aqueous material.

11. A skin treatment assembly, comprising:

an aqueous material comprising a hydrogel and/or biocellulose to be applied to the area to be treated, and

a means (2) for performing a fractional treatment, especially a device with microneedles or a laser.

12. The assembly as claimed in the preceding claim, also comprising at least one composition comprising at least one active agent chosen from regenerative active agents, anti-inflammatory agents, pain attenuators, depigmenting agents, antiacne agents, calmative agents, agents for stimulating epidermal and/or dermal moisturization, especially hyaluronane synthases, hyaluronidase inhibitors and dermal regenerative or protective agents especially by activating collagen and elastin syntheses, collagenase and elastase inhibitors and/or activators of tissue and endogenous inhibitors of these proteases, a slimming agents, an exfoliant agent, a nutritional supplement, an antidandruff agent or an agent for promoting hair growth when the scalp is involved, or a hair-removing agent.

13. The assembly as claimed in any one of claims 11 or 12, the aqueous material comprising or being constituted by biocellulose.

14. The assembly as claimed in any one of claims 11 to 13, comprising a light source for exposing the skin to light with a fluence of less than or equal to 5 J/cm² and better still 0.5 J/cm², preferably pulsed light, more preferably with a wavelength of 592 nm ± 10 nm.

15. The assembly as claimed in the preceding claim, the light source (50) and the aqueous material (11) being integrally attached to each other.