WO2011073438A2

WO2011073438A2 - Cosmetic method for treating body odours using a bacteriocin based composition

Info

Publication number: WO2011073438A2
Application number: PCT/EP2010/070168
Authority: WO
Inventors: Roxanne Gavillon; Jean-Thierry Simonnet
Original assignee: L'oreal
Priority date: 2009-12-17
Filing date: 2010-12-17
Publication date: 2011-06-23
Also published as: FR2954138B1; FR2954138A1; BR112012014730A2; EP2512430A2; WO2011073438A3

Abstract

The invention relates to cosmetic compositions and methods for treating body odours, in particular axillary odours, the methods comprising the application to the keratinous substances of a composition comprising at least one bacteriocin in a cosmetically acceptable medium.

Description

COSMETIC METHOD FOR TREATING BODY ODOURS USING A BACTERIOCIN-

BASED COMPOSITION

In the cosmetics field, it is well known to use, in topical application, deodorant products containing active substances of antiperspirant type or of bactericide type in order to reduce, or even eliminate, body odours, in particular axillary odours, which are generally unpleasant.

Antiperspirant substances operate by limiting the flow of sweat. They are generally composed of aluminium salts which may irritate the skin and which reduce the flow of sweat by modifying the cutaneous physiology, which is not satisfactory.

Bactericidal substances inhibit the development of the skin flora responsible for axillary odours. Among bactericidal products, the one most commonly used is triclosan (2,4,4'-trichloro-2'-hydroxydiphenyl ether), which has the drawback of considerably modifying the ecology of skin flora and of being inhibited by certain compounds commonly used in the formulation of cosmetic compositions, for instance by nonionic surfactants. Axillary microflora is mainly composed of Gram+ bacteria, such as staphylococci (e.g. S. epidermidis, S. hominis, etc.), coryneforms (more particularly C. xerosis), or micrococci (e.g. M. Luteus), Brevibacteria and Propionibacteria.

Unpleasant axillary odours are attributed to the microbial bioconversion of the natural secretions, which are odourless, into odorous volatile products. The strong axillary odours are mainly linked to the presence of C. xerosis in this region. The bactericidal products conventionally used for the purpose of obtaining good deodorant effectiveness lead to the destruction, without distinction, of the entire skin flora. In order to obtain a more targeted deodorant effectiveness, active ingredients are sought which have a more specific action against the microorganisms responsible for unpleasant odours, and, moreover, which are friendly to the beneficial microorganisms not responsible for these annoyances.

Patent US 5,318,778 proposes the use of lantibiotics in deodorant compositions. There remains, however, the need to find improved treatments for unpleasant body odours related to human perspiration, in particular axillary odours.

The applicant has discovered, surprisingly and unexpectedly, that, by using a class II bacteriocin in a composition, it is possible to obtain an effective deodorant activity.

This discovery constitutes the basis of the invention.

An aspect of the present invention is therefore a cosmetic method for treating body odours, in particular axillary odours, comprising the application to the keratinous substances of a composition comprising at least one class II bacteriocin in a cosmetically acceptable medium.

An aspect of the present invention is also the use of a class II bacteriocin as a deodorant agent.

Other aspects of the invention will become apparent in the rest of the description.

The term "cosmetically acceptable" is intended to mean which is compatible with the skin and/or its appendages or mucous membranes, which has a pleasant colour, odour and feel and which does not generate unacceptable discomfort (stinging, tautness, redness) that may dissuade the consumer from using this composition. The term "keratinous substances" is intended to mean the skin (body, face, area around the eyes), hair, eyelashes, eyebrows, body hair, nails, lips or mucosa.

BACTERIOCINS

Bacteriocins are peptide compounds synthesized naturally by certain bacteria. They play an important role in the competition between bacterial strains.

Bacteriocins may be bactericidal, i.e. eliminate certain microorganisms, and/or they may be bacteriostatic, i.e. inhibit the growth of certain microorganisms. The bactericidal or bacteriostatic activity is directed against certain species close to the producer strain.

Bacteriocins are generally cationic and amphiphilic peptides responsible for the permeabilisation of the membrane of target cells. Specifically, they bind to certain membrane receptors and cause thereon the formation of pores. The membrane is thus made permeable to certain compounds such as ions or molecules. This is generally lethal for the target bacterium. Bacteriocin classification

Bacteriocins are classified, according to structural data, into four classes, as proposed by Klaenhammer (1993). These four classes are: Class I: Lantibiotics: heat-stable peptides less than 5 kDa in size, which contain unusual sulphur-containing amino acids formed post-translationally, i.e. lanthionine, β-methyllanthionine, dehydrobutyrine and dehydroalanine. They can be divided up into two types: class la which comprises elongated hydrophobic cationic peptides containing up to 34 amino acids, and class lb which comprises globular peptides which are negatively charged or which have no net charge and which contain up to 19 amino acids (McAuliffe et al., 2001 ; Twomey et al., 2002). Two-component class I bacteriocins also exist, such as cytolysin, lacticin 3147 and plantaricin W (cf. Table 3). By way of illustration, as class I bacteriocins that can be used according to the invention, mention may be made of nisin, epidermin, subtilin, lactocin S, salivaricin A and plantaricin C.

Use may in particular be made of the class I bacteriocins described in Tables 1 , 2 and 3 below.

Table 1 : Examples of class la bacteriocins

* as they appear in the chapter "Bacteriocines de bacteries lactiques" ["Bacteriocins of lactic acid bacteria"] (Morisset et al.) of the book Bacteries Lactiques et probiotiques [Lactic acid bacteria and probiotic bacteria], Frangois-Marie Luquet, Georges Corrieu; published by Lavoisier

Table 2: Examples of class lb bacteriocins

Table 3: Examples of two-component class I bacteriocins

Lantibiotics Producer References*

Lacticin 347 (A1 and A2) Lactococcus lactis DPC3147 Dougherty ef al., 1998

Cytolysin cyll (1 and 2) Enterococcus faecalis DS16 Gilmore et al., 1994 Plantaricin w (a and β) | Lactobacillus plantarum W Holo et al., 2001

Class II. Heat-stable peptides less than 10 kDa in size, containing no modified amino acids. The sequences of some bacteriocins belonging to this class can be found in Table 4. Table 4: Sequences of certain class II bacteriocins

Class II is divided into three subclasses. The subclass lla bacteriocins are peptides which have a structure similar to that of pediocin, which was the first bacteriocin of this group that was described. The subclass I la bacteriocins contain between 27 and 48 amino acids and all have a hydrophobic N-terminal portion containing the YGNGV consensus sequence and also a disulphide bridge, and a less conserved, hydrophobic or amphiphilic C-terminal portion which determines the specificity of action (Fimland et al., 2000; Richard et al., 2006). This class can also more particularly be defined as having in particular a conserved N-terminal sequence YGNGVxCxxxxCxV (Klaenhammer, 1993; Ennahar et al. 2000; Nes and Holo, 2000). They all have an anti-Listeria activity. Some bacteriocins of this subclass also contain a second disulphide bridge in their C-terminal domain, which appears to be important in stabilising the tertiary structure. It appears, moreover, that it gives them a better antimicrobial activity, better resistance to exposure to high temperatures and a broader spectrum of action (Eijsink et al., 1998; Fimland et al., 2000; Drider et al., 2006; Richard et al., 2006). The Mb subclass comprises the bacteriocins that need two peptides in order to have an activity. Two types of class Mb bacteriocins can be distinguished: type E (Enhancing), where the function of one of the two peptides is to increase the activity of the other, and type S (Synergy), where the two peptides are complementary. The lie subclass contains the bacteriocins that cannot be classified in the other subclasses. By way of example of class I la bacteriocins that can be used according to the invention, mention may be made of the bacteriocins in Table 5. Mention may also be made of coagulin.

Table 5: Examples of class I la bacteriocins

Bacteriocins Producer References

Mesentericin Y105 Leuconostoc mesenteroides ssp. Hechard ef al., 1992a

Mesenteroides Y105

Leucocin A Leuconostoc gelidum UAL 187 Hasting ef al., 1991

Leucocin C Leuconostoc mesenteroides Fimland ef al., 2002c

Mundticin Enterococcus mundtii AT06 Bennik et ai, 1998

Mundticin KS Enterococcus mundtii NFRI 7393 Kawamoto ef al., 2002

Sakacin P Lactobacillus sakei LTH674 Tichaczek ef al., 1994

Curvacin A Lactobacillus curvatus LTH 1 174 Tichaczek et ai, 1993

Piscicolin 126 Carnobacterium piscicola JG126 Jack et ai, 1996

Carnobacteriocin BM1 Carnobacterium piscicola LV17B Quadri et ai, 1994

Carnobacteriocin B2 Carnobacterium piscicola LV17B Quadri et ai, 1994

Bavaricin MN Lactobacillus sakei MN Kaiser and Montville, 1996

Bacteriocin 31 Enterococcus faecalis YI717 Tomita et ai., 1996

Enterocin P Enterococcus faecium P13 Cintas et ai, 1997

Bifidocin B Bifidobacterium bifidum NCFB 1454 Yildirim et ai, 1999 Sakacin G Lactobacillus sakei 2512 Simon ef al., 2002

Pediocin PA-1 Pediococcus acidilactici PAC 1.0 Chikindas et ai, 1993

Enterocin A Enterococcus faecium DPC1 146 Aymerich et ai, 1996

Dive rein V41 Carnobacterium divergens V41 Metivier et ai, 1998

Plantaricin 423 Lactobacillus plantarum 423 Van Reenen ef al., 2003

Plantaricin C19 Lactobacillus plantarum C19 Atrich et ai, 2001

Sakacin 5X Lactobacillus sakei 5 Vaughan ef al., 2001

Lactococcin MMFII Lactococcus lactis MMFII Ferchichi et ai, 2001

By way of example of class lib bacteriocins that can be used according to the invention, mention may be made of lactococcin G, lactacin, lactocin 705, thermophilin, plantaricin EF, leucocin, carnocin and acidocin. Mention may more particularly be made of the bacteriocins listed in Table 6 below.

Table 6: Examples of class Mb bacteriocins

By way of example of class lie bacteriocins that can be used according to the invention, mention may be made of the bacteriocins listed in Table 7 below. Table 7: Examples of class lie bacteriocins

Plantaricin 149 is a class II bacteriocin consisting of sequence YSLQMGATAIKQVKKLFKKKGG (SEQ ID NO:20).

Class III. Heat-sensitive proteins greater than 30 kDa in size. The structure and the mode of action of these bacteriocins differ completely from the other bacteriocins produced by lactic acid bacteria. To date, four bacteriocins of this class have been identified: helveticin J produced by Lactobacillus helveticus A, enterolysin A produced by Enterococcus faecium, zoocin A produced by Streptococcus zooepidemicus and millericin B produced by Streptococcus milleri (Nilsen et al., 2003; Papagianni, 2003; Nigutova et al., 2007).

By way of example of class III bacteriocins that can be used according to the invention, mention may be made of the bacteriocins listed in Table 8 below.

Table 8: Examples of class III bacteriocins

Class IV. Peptides requiring a carbohydrate or lipid portion in order to have an activity. No bacteriocin of this class has been described.

The bacteriocins used in the present invention can be produced by any suitable method known to those skilled in the art. They can be synthesized without difficulty by those skilled in the art, using the conventional solid-phase or solution peptide synthesis techniques (M. Bodanszky, Principles of Peptide Synthesis, 2^nd ed., 1993, published by Springer-Verlag). The bacteriocins used according to the invention can also be produced by microorganisms, using bioengineering methods. In this case, it may be necessary to extract and purify the peptide from the producer microorganisms, before formulation. In one preferred embodiment, the bacteriocins used according to the invention are synthetic peptides.

The present invention is directed towards the use of a class II bacteriocin as defined above, as a deodorant agent.

According to a particular embodiment, the bacteriocin used is a class Mb bacteriocin. In particular, an aspect of the invention is the use of at least one of the class Mb bacteriocins mentioned above, more particularly of a class Mb bacteriocin selected in the group consisting of the bacteriocins listed in Table 4 or 6. According to another particular embodiment, the bacteriocin used is a class lie bacteriocin. In particular, an aspect of the invention is the use of at least one of the class lie bacteriocins mentioned above, more particularly of a class lie bacteriocin selected in the group consisting of the bacteriocins listed in Table 4 or 7.

According to a particular embodiment, the bacteriocin used is a class lla bacteriocin. In particular, an aspect of the invention is the use of at least one of the class lla bacteriocins mentioned above, more particularly of a class lla bacteriocin selected in the group consisting of the bacteriocins listed in Table 4 or 5. In one particularly preferred embodiment, the class lla bacteriocin is selected in the group consisting of pediocin PA-1 , sakacin A and sakacin P.

In another particular embodiment, the class II bacteriocin is selected in the group consisting of class II plantaricins. In a specific form of this embodiment, the class II plantaricin is selected in the group consisting of plantaricin A, plantaricin C19 and plantaricin 149. In a preferred form, the class II bacteriocin is plantaricin C19 ou plantaricin 149. According to a particular embodiment, the class II bacteriocin is used in combination with another class II bacteriocin. For example, a class lla bacteriocin is used in combination with another class II bacteriocin, for example with another class lla bacteriocin, or with a class Mb and/or lie bacteriocin. According to a particular embodiment, the class II, for example class lla, Mb or lie, preferably class lla, bacteriocin is used in combination with a bacteriocin of another class, for example a class I bacteriocin and/or a class III bacteriocin.

Thus, according to a first variant, the invention relates to the use of a class II, in particular a class lla bacteriocin or a class II plantaricin, bacteriocin in combination with a class I bacteriocin. The class I bacteriocin may in particular be selected from those mentioned above. In particular, the class I bacteriocin may be selected in the group consisting of the bacteriocins listed in Tables 1 , 2 and 3. According to a particular embodiment of this variant, the invention relates to the use of a class lla bacteriocin selected in the group consisting of the bacteriocins listed in Table 4 or 5, in combination with a class I bacteriocin selected in the group consisting of the bacteriocins listed in Tables 1 , 2 and 3.

According to another particular embodiment of this variant, the class lla bacteriocin is selected in the group consisting of pediocin PA-1 , sakacin A and sakacin P, and the class I bacteriocin is selected in the group consisting of nisin A, epidermin, salivaricin, plantaricin C and gallidermin. According to another embodiment of this first variant, the class II plantaricin is selected in the group consisting of plantaricin A, plantaricin C19 and plantaricin 149, and the class I bacteriocin is selected in the group consisting of nisin A, epidermin, salivaricin, plantaricin C and gallidermin.

According to a second variant, the invention relates to the use of a class II, in particular a class lla bacteriocin or a class II plantaricin, bacteriocin in combination with a class III bacteriocin. According to a particular embodiment of this variant, the class lla bacteriocin is selected in the group consisting of the bacteriocins listed in Table 4 or 5. According to another particular embodiment of this variant, the class lla bacteriocin is selected in the group consisting of pediocin PA-1 , sakacin A and sakacin P. According to another embodiment of this second variant, the class II plantaricin is selected in the group consisting of plantaricin A, plantaricin C19 and plantaricin 149.

Another aspect of the invention relates to the use of a class III bacteriocin as defined above, as a deodorant agent. More specifically, the invention thus relates to the use of a class III bacteriocin selected in the group consisting of helveticin J, enterolysin A, zoocin A and millericin B. The class III bacteriocin can also be used in combination with a class I or class II, in particular a class lla bacteriocin or a class II plantaricin, as defined above.

The invention also relates to a cosmetic composition for treating unpleasant human body odours, in particular unpleasant axillary odours, comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable medium, a class II bacteriocin, for example a class lla, Mb or lie bacteriocin. In a particular embodiment, the class II bacteriocin is a class lla bacteriocin or a class II plantaricin.

According to a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises a class lla bacteriocin as defined above or a class II plantaricin (e.g. plantaricin A, plantaricin C19 or plantaricin 149). In particular, the invention relates to a composition comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable medium, a class lla bacteriocin selected in the group consisting of the bacteriocins listed in Table 4 or 5. According to one particular embodiment of this composition, the class lla bacteriocin is selected in the group consisting of pediocin PA-1 , sakacin A and sakacin P.

In a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention also comprises at least one class I or III bacteriocin. According to one variant, the composition according to the invention comprises the combination of a class II bacteriocin, preferably a class lla bacteriocin or a class II plantaricin, in particular selected in the group consisting of the bacteriocins listed in Table 4 or 5, with a class I bacteriocin selected in the group consisting of the bacteriocins listed in Tables 1 , 2 and 3. According to a particular embodiment of this variant, the class I bacteriocin is selected in the group consisting of nisin A, epidermin, salivaricin, plantaricin C and gallidernnin. According to another embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises:

- a class lla bacteriocin selected in the group consisting of pediocin PA-1 , sakacin A and sakacin P, or a class II plantaricin selected in the group consisting of plantaricin A, plantaricin C19 and plantaricin 149, and

- a class I bacteriocin selected in the group consisting of nisin A, epidermin, salivaricin, plantaricin C and gallidernnin.

According to another embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises a class lla bacteriocin, in particular one of those described in Tables 4 and 5, or a class II plantaricin, in particular plantaricin A, plantaricin C19 or plantaricin 149, in combination with a class III bacteriocin. The invention also relates to a cosmetic composition for treating unpleasant human body odours, in particular unpleasant axillary odours, comprising a class III bacteriocin in a cosmetically acceptable medium. The class III bacteriocin may be combined, in the composition, with a class I or class II, preferably class I la bacteriocin as defined above or class II plantaricin (e.g. plantaricin A, plantaricin C19 and plantaricin 149). The class I la bacteriocin is more particularly selected from those described in Tables 4 and 5. According to a particular embodiment, the composition comprises a class III bacteriocin, in particular one of the four mentioned above, in combination with a class I la bacteriocin selected in the group consisting of pediocin PA-1 , sakacin A and sakacin P. According to another particular embodiment, the composition comprises a class III bacteriocin, in particular one of the four mentioned above, in combination with a class II plantaricin selected in the group consisting of plantaricin A, plantaricin C19 and plantaricin 149. The class I bacteriocin may more particularly be selected from the group of the bacteriocins described in Tables 1 , 2 and 3. According to one particular embodiment, the composition comprises a class III bacteriocin, in particular one of the four mentioned above, in combination with a class I bacteriocin selected in the group consisting of nisin A, epidermin, salivaricin, plantaricin C and gallidermin.

According to one particular embodiment, each bacteriocin present in the compositions according to the invention can be present at a concentration of between 0.0001 % and 1 % of active material, relative to the composition. The invention also relates to a cosmetic method for treating body odours, in particular axillary odours, which comprises applying to the keratinous substances a composition as described above. Preferably, the process according to the invention comprises the application of a composition comprising a class II, preferably class I la, bacteriocin according to each of the embodiments and variants of this composition described above.

The use of bacteriocins in products intended for combating in particular C. xerosis, which is a Gram+ bacterium, is one particular embodiment of the invention. Destroying or inhibiting the bacteria responsible for unpleasant odours, and in particular unpleasant axillary odours, makes it possible to reduce and/or remove or prevent the development of body odours without, however, destroying the ecosystem of the area treated. Those skilled in the art will be able to adjust the strength of the deodorising effect by selecting the bacteriocins most active against one or more microorganisms responsible for unpleasant body odours.

GALENIC FORMS The compositions according to the invention can independently be in the form of suspensions, dispersions, solutions, gels, emulsions (in particular of liquid or semi- liquid, soft, semi-solid or solid consistency), in particular oil-in-water (O/W), wax-in- water or water-in-oil (W/O) emulsions, or multiple (W/O/W or polyol/O/W or O/W/O) emulsions, or in the form of creams, pastes, foams, microemulsions, dispersions of vesicles, in particular of ionic or nonionic lipids, wax/aqueous phase dispersions, two- phase or multiphase lotions, or pastes, in particular flexible pastes. They can in particular be in the form of aqueous gels or of aqueous or aqueous-alcoholic solutions.

The compositions according to the invention or used in the method according to the invention can be in the form of a protecting, treating or care composition for the face, for the hands or for the body (for example, day creams, night creams, makeup- removing creams, antisun compositions, body protection or care milks, aftersun milks, skincare lotions, gels or foams); or an aftershave composition.

They can also be used for makeup.

According to an embodiment, the compositions are compositions for covering the skin of the body or the face, more particularly makeup or care compositions for the skin of the body or the face, such as, for example, foundations or body makeup compositions. Those skilled in the art will be able to choose the suitable galenic form, and also the method for preparing same, according to their general knowledge, taking into account, firstly, the nature of the constituents used, in particular their solubility in the carrier, and, secondly, the application contemplated for each composition.

The compositions can in particular be packaged in pressurised form in an aerosol device or in a pump-dispenser; packaged in a device fitted with a perforated wall, in particular a grille; packaged in a roll-on device; packaged in the form of sticks, or in the form of loose or compacted powder; or else applied on wipes. The compositions may also be in the form of soaps or gels (rinse-off or leave-on). In this respect, they contain the ingredients generally used in products of this type and which are well known to those skilled in the art.

According to another particular form of the invention, the compositions according to the invention may be anhydrous. An anhydrous composition according to the invention may in particular be in the form of a stick a cream, a soft solid or an aerosol.

The term "anhydrous composition" is intended to mean a composition containing less than 2% by weight of water, or even less than 0.5% of water, and in particular free of water, the water not being added during the preparation of the composition, but corresponding to the residual water introduced by the ingredients that are mixed.

According to another particular form of the invention, in the context of the deodorant application, the compositions according to the invention may be in the form of solid compositions, in particular in the form of a stick.

The term "solid composition" is intended to mean that the measurement of the maximum force measured by texturometry during insertion of a probe down into the formulation sample should be at least equal to 0.25 newton, in particular at least equal to 0.30 newton, especially at least equal to 0.35 newton, assessed under precise measuring conditions as follows. The formulations are hot-cast into pots 4 cm in diameter and 3 cm deep. Cooling is carried out at ambient temperature. The hardness of the formulations prepared is measured after a standing period of 24 hours. The pots containing the samples are characterized by texturometry using a texturometer such as the one sold by the Rheo company, TA-XT2, according to the following protocol: a probe of stainless steel bead type, 5 mm in diameter, is brought into contact with the sample at a speed of 1 mm/s. The measuring system detects the interface with the sample with a detection threshold equal to 0.005 newton. The probe is pushed down 0.3 mm into the sample, at a speed of 0.1 mm/s. The measuring apparatus records the change in the compression force measured over time, during the penetration phase. The hardness of the sample corresponds to the average of the maximum values of the force detected during the penetration, over at least 3 measurements.

AQUEOUS PHASE

The composition according to the invention can be aqueous. In this context, the composition preferably has a pH of between 3 and 9, depending on the carrier selected. The compositions according to the invention which are intended for cosmetic use can comprise at least one aqueous phase. They are in particular formulated as aqueous lotions or as water-in-oil or oil-in-water emulsion, or as a multiple emulsion (oil-in- water-in-oil or water-in-oil-in-water triple emulsion) (such emulsions are known and described, for example, by C. Fox in "Cosmetics and Toiletries" - November 1986 - Vol. 101 - pages 101 -1 12).

The aqueous phase of said compositions contains water and, in general, other water- soluble or water-miscible solvents. The water-soluble or water-miscible solvents include short-chain monoalcohols for example of Ci-C₄, such as ethanol or isopropanol; diols or polyols, such as ethylene glycol, 1 ,2-propylene glycol, 1 ,3- butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, diethylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, 2- ethoxyethanol, diethylene glycol monomethyl ether, triethylene glycol monomethyl ether and sorbitol. Propylene glycol, glycerol and propane-1 ,3-diol will more particularly be used.

EMULSIFIERS a) Oil-in-water emulsifiers

As emulsifiers that may be used in the oil-in-water emulsions or oil-in-water-in-oil triple emulsions, mention may be made, for example, of nonionic emulsifiers such as oxyalkylenated (more particularly polyoxyethylenated) esters of fatty acid and glycerol; oxyalkylenated esters of fatty acid and sorbitan; oxyalkylenated (oxyethylenated and/or oxypropylenated) fatty acid esters; oxyalkylenated (oxyethylenated and/or oxypropylenated) fatty alcohol ethers; sugar esters such as sucrose stearate; and mixtures thereof such as the mixture of glyceryl stearate and PEG-40 stearate.

Mention may also be made of the fatty alcohol/alkylpolyglycoside emulsifier mixtures as described in applications WO 92/06778, WO 95/13863 and WO 98/47610, such as the commercial products sold by SEPPIC under the name Montanov®. b) Water-in-oil emulsifiers

Among the emulsifiers that can be used in the water-in-oil emulsions or triple emulsions (H/W/H or W/H/W), mention may, by way of example, be made of the alkyl dimethicone copolyols corresponding to formula (I) below:

CH

I CH_Q

CH₃ - _Si Si Si - C+ Si CH, (I)

CH,

R

in which: Ri denotes a C12-C20, and preferably C12-C18, linear or branched alkyl group;

R₂ denotes the group: ~CnH2n~(-OC2H₄-)_x~(-OC₃H6-)y~O— R₃;

R3 denotes a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched alkyl radical containing from 1 to

12 carbon atoms;

a is an integer ranging from 1 to approximately 500;

b denotes an integer ranging from 1 to approximately 500;

n is an integer ranging from 2 to 12, and preferably 2 to 5;

x denotes an integer ranging from 1 to approximately 50, and preferably from 1 to 30; y denotes an integer ranging from 0 to approximately 49, and preferably 0 to 29, with the proviso that, when y is different from zero, the ratio x/y is greater than 1 , and preferably ranges from 2 to 1 1 .

Among the preferred alkyl dimethicone copolyol emulsifiers of formula (I), mention will more particularly be made of Cetyl PEG/PPG-10/1 Dimethicone, and more particularly the mixture Cetyl PEG/PPG-10/1 Dimethicone and Dimethicone (INCI name), for instance the product sold under the trade name Abil EM90 by the Goldschmidt or else the (Polyglyceryl-4-stearate and Cetyl PEG/PPG-10 (and) Dimethicone (and) Hexyl Laurate) mixture, for instance the product sold under the trade name Abil WE09 by the same company.

Among the water-in-oil emulsifiers, mention may also be made of the dimethicone copolyols corresponding to formula (II) below:

CH₃

CH₃ - Si -Si -O Si - C+ Si CH, (N)

CH. R.

in which:

R₄ denotes the group: ~C_mH₂m~(-OC2H₄-)_s~(-OC₃H6-)t~O— R₅;

R₅ denotes a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched alkyl radical containing from 1 to

12 carbon atoms; c is an integer ranging from 1 to approximately 500;

d denotes an integer ranging from 1 to approximately 500;

m is an integer ranging from 2 to 12, and preferably 2 to 5;

s denotes an integer ranging from 1 to approximately 50, and preferably from 1 to 30; t denotes an integer ranging from 0 to approximately 50, and preferably from 0 to 30; with the proviso that the sum s+t is greater than or equal to 1 .

Among these preferred dimethicone copolyol emulsifiers of formula (II), use will particularly be made of PEG-18/PPG-18 Dimethicone, and more particularly the Cyclopentasiloxane (and) PEG-18/PPG-18 Dimethicone mixture (INCI name), such as the product sold by Dow Corning under the trade name Silicone DC 5225 C or KF-6040 from Shin Etsu.

According to one particularly preferred embodiment, a mixture of at least one emulsifier of formula (I) and at least one emulsifier of formula (II) will be used.

Use will more particularly be made of a mixture of PEG-18/PPG-18 Dimethicone and Cetyl PEG/PPG-10/1 Dimethicone, and even more particularly a mixture of (Cyclopentasiloxane (and) PEG-18/PPG-18 Dimethicone) and of Cetyl PEG/PPG-10/1 Dimethicone and Dimethicone or of (Polyglyceryl-4-stearate and Cetyl PEG/PPG-10 (and) Dimethicone (and) Hexyl Laurate).

Among the water-in-oil emulsifiers, mention may also be made of the nonionic emulsifiers derived from a fatty acid and from a polyol, alkylpolyglycosides (APGs), sugar esters, and mixtures thereof.

As nonionic emulsifiers derived from a fatty acid and from a polyol, use may in particular be made of fatty acid esters of a polyol, the fatty acid having in particular a Cs-C2₄ alkyl chain, and the polyols being, for example, glycerol and sorbitan.

As fatty acid esters of a polyol, mention may in particular be made of isostearic acid esters of polyols, stearic acid esters of polyols, and mixtures thereof, in particular isostearic acid esters of glycerol and/or of sorbitan. As stearic acid esters of polyols, mention may in particular be made of polyethylene glycol esters, for instance PEG-30 dipolyhydroxystearate, such as the product sold under the name Arlacel P135 by ICI.

As glycerol and/or sorbitan esters, mention may, for example, be made of polyglyceryl isostearate, such as the product sold under the name Isolan Gl 34 by Goldschmidt; sorbitan isostearate, such as the product sold under the name Arlacel 987 by ICI; glycerol sorbitan isostearate, such as the product sold under the name Arlacel 986 by ICI; the mixture of sorbitan isostearate and polyglyceryl isostearate (3 mol) sold under the name Arlacel 1690 by Uniqema, and mixtures thereof.

The emulsifier may also be selected from alkylpolyglycosides having an HLB of less than 7, for example those represented by general formula (1 ) below:

R-O-(G)x (1 ) in which R represents a branched and/or unsaturated alkyl radical containing from 14 to 24 carbon atoms, G represents a reduced sugar containing from 5 to 6 carbon atoms, and x denotes a value ranging from 1 to 10, and preferably from 1 to 4, and G denotes in particular glucose, fructose or galactose.

The unsaturated alkyl radical may comprise one or more ethylenic unsaturations, and in particular one or two ethylenic unsaturations.

As alkylpolyglycosides of this type, mention may be made of alkylpolyglucosides (G = glucose in formula (1 )), and in particular the compounds of formula (1 ) in which R represents more particularly an oleyl radical (unsaturated Cis radical) or an isostearyl radical (saturated Cis radical), G denotes glucose, x is a value ranging from 1 to 2, in particular isostearylglucoside, oleylglucoside and mixtures thereof. This alkylpolyglucoside may be used as a mixture with a coemulsifier, more especially with a fatty alcohol, and in particular a fatty alcohol having the same fatty chain as that of the alkylpolyglucoside, i.e. containing from 14 to 24 carbon atoms and having a branched and/or unsaturated chain, and for example isostearyl alcohol when the alkylpolyglucoside is isostearylglucoside, and oleyl alcohol when the alkylpolyglucoside is oleylglucoside, optionally in the form of a self-emulsifying composition, as described, for example, in document WO-A-92/06778. The mixture of isostearylglucoside and isostearyl alcohol, sold under the name Montanov WO 18 by the company SEPPIC, and also the octyldodecanol and octyldodecylxyloside mixture sold under the name Fludanov 20X by the company SEPPIC, may, for example, be used.

Mention may also be made of polyolefins with a succinic end group, such as polyisobutylenes with an esterified succinic end group and salts thereof, in particular the diethanolamine salts, such as the products sold under the names Lubrizol 2724, Lubrizol 2722 and Lubrizol 5603 by the company Lubrizol or the commercial product Chemcinnate 2000.

The total amount of emulsifiers in the composition will preferably, in the composition according to the invention, be in contents with respect to active material ranging from 1 % to 8% by weight, and more particularly from 2% to 6% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

FATTY PHASE

The leave-on compositions according to the invention may contain at least one water-immiscible organic liquid phase, called fatty phase. The latter comprises, in general, one or more hydrophobic compounds which render said phase water- immiscible. Said phase is liquid (in the absence of structuring agent) at ambient temperature (20-25°C). Preferably, the water-immiscible organic liquid phase in accordance with the invention generally comprises at least one volatile oil and/or one non-volatile oil and, optionally, at least one structuring agent.

The term "oil" is intended to mean a fatty substance which is liquid at ambient temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg, i.e. 10⁵ Pa). The oil may be volatile or non-volatile. According to the invention, the term "volatile oil" is intended to mean an oil capable of evaporating on contact with the skin or with the keratin fibre in less than one hour, at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure. The volatile oils of the invention are volatile cosmetic oils which are liquid at ambient temperature and which have a nonzero vapour pressure, at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure, ranging in particular from 0.13 Pa to 40 000 Pa (10^"3 to 300 mmHg), in particular ranging from 1 .3 Pa to 13 000 Pa (0.01 to 100 mmHg), and more particularly ranging from 1 .3 Pa to 1300 Pa (0.01 to 10 mmHg).

The term "non-volatile oil" is intended to mean an oil which remains on the skin or the keratin fibre at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure for at least several hours and which has in particular a vapour pressure of less than 10^"3 mmHg (0.13 Pa).

The oil may be selected from any of the physiologically acceptable, and in particular cosmetically acceptable, oils, especially mineral, animal, plant or synthetic oils; in particular volatile or non-volatile, hydrocarbon-based and/or silicone and/or fluoro oils and mixtures thereof.

More specifically, the term "hydrocarbon-based oil" is intended to mean an oil comprising mainly carbon and hydrogen atoms and, optionally, one or more functions selected from hydroxyl, ester, ether and carboxylic functions. Generally, the oil has a viscosity of from 0.5 to 100 000 mPa.s, preferably from 50 to 50 000 mPa.s, and more preferably from 100 to 30 000 mPa.s.

By way of example of a volatile oil that can be used in the invention, mention may be made of:

volatile hydrocarbon-based oils selected from hydrocarbon-based oils containing from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, and in particular Cs-Ci6 isoalkanes of petroleum origin (also known as isoparaffins), such as isododecane (also known as 2,2,4,4,6-pentamethylheptane), isodecane or isohexadecane, and for example the oils sold under the trade names Isopars or Permetyls, Cs-Ci6 branched esters, isohexyl neopentanoate, and mixtures thereof. Other volatile hydrocarbon-based oils, such as petroleum distillates, in particular those sold under the name Shell Solt by the company Shell, may also be used; volatile linear alkanes such as those described in patent application DE 10 2008 012 457 from the company Cognis;

- volatile silicones, for instance volatile linear or cyclic silicone oils, in particular those having a viscosity < 8 centistokes (8 x 10^"6 m²/s), and having in particular from 2 to 7 silicon atoms, these silicones optionally comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups containing from 1 to 10 carbon atoms. As volatile silicone oil that can be used in the invention, mention may in particular be made of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, heptamethylhexyl- trisiloxane, heptamethyloctyltrisiloxane, hexamethyldisiloxane, octamethyltrisiloxane, decamethyltetrasiloxane, dodecamethylpentasiloxane;

and mixtures thereof. Mention may also be made of the linear volatile alkyltrisiloxane oils of general formula (III):

CH C^Hj₃— SiO— Si O SijcH j

^R (Hi) where R represents an alkyl group containing from 2 to 4 carbon atoms, and one or more hydrogen atoms of which may be substituted with a fluorine or chlorine atom.

Among the oils of general formula (I), mention may be made of:

3-butyl-1 ,1 ,1 ,3,5,5,5-heptamethyltrisiloxane,

3-propyl-1 ,1 ,1 ,3,5,5,5-heptamethyltrisiloxane, and

3-ethyl-1 ,1 ,1 ,3,5,5,5-heptamethyltrisiloxane,

corresponding to the oils of formula (III) for which R is, respectively, a butyl group, a propyl group or an ethyl group. By way of example of a non-volatile oil that can be used in the invention, mention may be made of:

hydrocarbon-based oils of animal origin, such as perhydrosqualene;

plant hydrocarbon-based oils, such as liquid triglycerides of fatty acids containing from 4 to 24 carbon atoms, such as heptanoic or octanoic acid triglycerides, or else wheat germ oil, olive oil, sweet almond oil, palm oil, rapeseed oil, cottonseed oil, alfalfa oil, poppy oil, pumpkin oil, marrow oil, blackcurrant oil, evening primrose oil, millet oil, barley oil, quinoa oil, rye oil, saffron oil, candlenut oil, passion flower oil, musk rose oil, sunflower oil, maize oil, soybean oil, grapeseed oil, sesame oil, hazelnut oil, apricot oil, macadamia oil, castor oil, avocado oil, caprylic/capric acid triglycerides such as those sold by the company Stearineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol 810, 812 and 818 by the company Dynamit Nobel, jojoba oil or shea butter;

linear or branched hydrocarbons of inorganic or synthetic origin, such as liquid paraffins and derivatives thereof, petroleum jelly, polydecenes, polybutenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as parleam, or squalane;

synthetic ethers containing from 10 to 40 carbon atoms;

synthetic esters, in particular of fatty acids, such as oils of formula R1COOR2 in which Ri represents a linear or branched higher fatty acid residue containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms and R2 represents an in particular branched hydrocarbon- based chain containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms, with Ri + R₂ > 10, for instance purcellin oil (cetostearyl octanoate), isononyl isononanoate, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, C12 - C15 alkyl benzoate, hexyl laurate, diisopropyl adipate, 2- ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-octyldodecyl stearate, 2-octyldodecyl erucate, isostearyl isostearate, tridecyl trimellitate; alkyl or polyalkyl octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates such as propylene glycol dioctanoate; hydroxylated esters such as isostearyl lactate, octyl hydroxystearate, octyldodecyl hydroxystearate, diisostearyl malate, triisocetyl citrate, fatty alcohol heptanoates, octanoates and decanoates; polyol esters such as propylene glycol dioctanoate, neopentyl glycol diheptanoate or diethylene glycol diisononanoate; and pentaerythritol esters such as pentaerythrytyl tetraisostearate;

fatty alcohols that are liquid at ambient temperature, comprising a branched and/or unsaturated carbon-based chain containing from 12 to 26 carbon atoms, such as octyldodecanol, isostearyl alcohol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2- undecylpentadecanol or oleyl alcohol;

higher fatty acids such as oleic acid, linoleic acid or linolenic acid;

carbonates;

- acetates;

citrates;

fluoro oils, optionally partially hydrocarbon-based and/or silicone-based, such as fluorosilicone oils, fluorinated polyethers or fluorinated silicones, as described in document EP-A-847752;

- silicone oils, such as polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) which are non-volatile and linear or cyclic; polydimethylsiloxanes comprising alkyl, alkoxy or phenyl groups which are pendant or at the end of the silicone chain, said groups having from 2 to 24 carbon atoms; phenylated silicones such as phenyl trimethicones, phenyl dimethicones, phenyltrimethylsiloxydiphenylsiloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, diphenylmethyldiphenyltrisiloxanes or 2-(phenylethyl)trimethylsiloxysilicates, and

mixtures thereof.

STRUCTURING AGENT The leave-on compositions according to the invention comprising a fatty phase may also contain at least one structuring agent for said fatty phase which may be selected preferably from waxes, pasty compounds, inorganic or organic lipophilic gelling agents, and mixtures thereof. It is understood that the amount of these compounds can be adjusted by those skilled in the art in such a way as to not be detrimental to the desired effect in the context of the present invention.

Wax(es)

Wax is, in general, a lipophilic compound which is solid at ambient temperature (25°C), which has a reversible solid/liquid change in state and which has a melting point of greater than or equal to 30°C, which can go up to 200°C and in particular up to 120°C.

In particular, the waxes suitable for the invention may have a melting point of greater than or equal to 45°C, and in particular greater than or equal to 55°C.

According to the invention, the melting point corresponds to the temperature of the most endothermic peak observed by thermal analysis (DSC) as described in ISO Standard 1 1357-3; 1999. The melting point of the wax can be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example the calorimeter sold under the name "MDSC 2920" by the company TA Instruments.

The measurement protocol is as follows:

A 5 mg sample of wax placed in a crucible is subjected to a first rise in temperature ranging from -20°C to 100°C at a heating rate of 10°C/minute, and is then cooled from 100°C to -20°C at a cooling rate of 10°C/minute and, finally, is subjected to a second rise in temperature ranging from -20°C to 100°C at a heating rate of 5°C/minute. During the second rise in temperature, the variation in the difference in power absorbed by the empty crucible and by the crucible containing the sample of wax is measured as a function of the temperature. The melting point of the compound is the value of the temperature corresponding to the tip of the peak of the curve representing the variation in the difference in power absorbed as a function of the temperature. The waxes that can be used in the compositions according to the invention are selected from waxes, which are solid at ambient temperature, of animal, plant, mineral or synthetic origin, and mixtures thereof.

By way of illustration of the waxes suitable for the invention, mention may in particular be made of hydrocarbon-based waxes such as beeswax, lanolin wax, and Chinese insect waxes, rice bran wax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, ouricury wax, Alfa wax, berry wax, shellac wax, Japan wax and sumach wax; montane wax, orange and lemon waxes, the refined sunflower wax sold under the name Sunflower Wax by Koster Keunen, microcrystalline waxes, paraffins and ozokerites; polyethylene waxes, waxes obtained by Fischer Tropsch synthesis and waxy copolymers, and also esters thereof. Mention may also be made of waxes obtained by catalytic hydrogenation of animal or plant oils containing linear or branched C8-C32 fatty chains. Among these, mention may in particular be made of isomerised jojoba oil such as the trans-isomerised partially hydrogenated jojoba oil manufactured or sold by the company Desert Whale under the commercial reference lso-Jojoba-50^®, hydrogenated sunflower oil, hydrogenated castor oil, hydrogenated coconut oil, hydrogenated lanolin oil, and the di-(1 ,1 ,1 -trimethylolpropane) tetrastearate sold under the name Hest 2T-4S^® by the company Heterene.

Mention may also be made of silicone waxes (C3o_-45 Alkyl Dimethicone) and fluoro waxes.

Use may also be made of the waxes obtained by hydrogenation of castor oil esterified with cetyl alcohol, sold under the names Phytowax ricin 16L64^® and 22L73^® by the company Sophim. Such waxes are described in application FR-A-2792190.

Use may be made, as wax, of a C2o-C₄o alkyl (hydroxystearyloxy)stearate (the alkyl group containing from 20 to 40 carbon atoms), alone or as a mixture. Such a wax is in particular sold under the names Kester Wax K 82 P^®, Hydroxypolyester K 82 P^® and Kester Wax K 80 P^® by the company Koster Keunen.

As microwaxes that can be used in the compositions according to the invention, mention may in particular be made of carnauba microwaxes such as the product sold under the name MicroCare 350^® by the company Micro Powders, microwaxes of synthetic wax, such as the product sold under the name MicroEase 1 14S^® by the company Micro Powders, microwaxes constituted of a mixture of carnauba wax and polyethylene wax, such as those sold under the names MicroCare 300^® and 310^® by the company Micro Powders, microwaxes constituted of a mixture of carnauba wax and of synthetic wax, such as the product sold under the name MicroCare 325^® by the company Micro Powders, polyethylene microwaxes such as those sold under the names Micropoly 200^®, 220^®, 220L^® and 250S^® by the company Micro Powders, the commercial products Performalene 400 Polyethylene and Performalene 500-L Polyethylene from New Phase Technologies, Performalene 655 Polyethylene or paraffin waxes such as the wax having the INCI name Microcristalline Wax and Synthetic Wax and sold under the trade name Microlease by the company Sochibo; polytetrafluoroethylene microwaxes such as those sold under the names Microslip 519^® and 519 L^® by the company Micro Powders.

The composition according to the invention will preferably comprise a content of wax(es) ranging from 3% to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, in particular from 5% to 15%, more particularly from 6% to 15%.

According to one particular embodiment of the invention, in the context of the anhydrous solid compositions in the form of a stick, use will be made of polyethylene microwaxes in the form of crystallites having a shape factor at least equal to 2 and having a melting point ranging from 70 to 1 10°C, and preferably 70 to 100°C, in order to reduce or even eliminate the presence of strata in the solid composition.

These needle-shaped crystallites, and in particular the dimensions thereof, can be characterized visually according to the following method. The wax is deposited on a microscope slide, which is placed on a heated platform. The slide and the wax are heated to a temperature which is generally at least 5°C above that of the melting point of the wax or of the wax mixture under consideration. At the end of the melting, the liquid thus obtained and the microscope slide are left to cool in order to solidify. The crystallites are observed using a Leica DMLB100 optical microscope, with an objective selected according to the size of the objects to be visualized, and by polarized light. The dimensions of the crystallites are measured using image analysis software, such as the software sold by the company Microvision. The crystallite polyethylene waxes in accordance with the invention preferably have an average length ranging from 5 to 10 μιτι. The term "average length" denotes the dimension given by the statistical particle size distribution to half the population, referred to as D50.

Use will more particularly be made of a mixture of Performalene 400 Polyethylene and Performalene 500-L Polyethylene waxes from New Phase Technologies. Pasty compounds

For the purpose of the present invention, the term "pasty compound" is intended to mean a lipophilic fatty compound that undergoes a reversible solid/liquid change of state, that has an anisotropic crystalline organization in the solid state, and that comprises, at a temperature of 23°C, a liquid fraction and a solid fraction.

The pasty compound is preferably selected from synthetic compounds and compounds of plant origin. A pasty compound may be obtained by synthesis from starting products of plant origin.

The pasty compound may advantageously be selected from:

- lanolin and derivatives thereof,

- silicone compounds, which may or may not be polymers,

- fluoro compounds, which may or may not be polymers,

- vinylpolymers, in particular:

- olefin homopolymers,

- olefin copolymers,

- hydrogenated diene homopolymers and copolymers,

- linear or branched oligomers, which are homopolymers or copolymers of alkyl (meth)acrylates preferably containing a C8-C30 alkyl group,

- oligomers, which are homopolymers and copolymers of vinyl esters containing C8-C30 alkyl groups, and

- oligomers, which are homopolymers and copolymers of vinyl ethers containing C₈-C₃o alkyl groups,

- liposoluble polyethers resulting from the polyetherification between one or more C2-C100, preferably C2-C50, diols,

- esters,

- and mixtures thereof.

Among the esters, those preferred are:

- esters of a glycerol oligomer, especially diglycerol esters, in particular condensates of adipic acid and of glycerol, for which some of the hydroxyl groups of the glycerols have reacted with a mixture of fatty acids such as stearic acid, capric acid, stearic acid and isostearic acid, and 12-hydroxystearic acid, in particular such as those sold under the trade mark Softisan 649 by the company Sasol,

- arachidyl propionate sold under the trade mark Waxenol 801 by Alzo,

- phytosterol esters,

- fatty acid triglycerides and derivatives thereof,

- pentaerythritol esters,

- noncrosslinked polyesters resulting from polycondensation between a linear or branched C₄-C₅o dicarboxylic acid or polycarboxylic acid and a C2-C50 diol or polyol,

- aliphatic esters of an ester resulting from the esterification of an aliphatic hydroxycarboxylic acid ester with an aliphatic carboxylic acid,

- polyesters resulting from the esterification, with a polycarboxylic acid, of an aliphatic hydroxycarboxylic acid ester, said ester comprising at least two hydroxyl groups, such as the products Risocast DA-H^® and Risocast DA-L^®,

- esters of a diol dimer and of a diacid dimer, where appropriate esterified on their free alcohol or acid function(s) with acid or alcohol radicals, such as Plandool-G,

- and mixtures thereof.

Among the pasty compounds of plant origin, a mixture of soybean sterols and of oxyethylenated (5 EO) oxypropylenated (5 PO) pentaerythritol, sold under the reference Lanolide by the company Vevy, will preferably be chosen.

Lipophilic gelling agents Mineral gelling agents

As mineral lipophilic gelling agent, mention may be made of optionally modified clays such as hectorites modified with a C10 to C22 ammonium chloride, for instance hectorite modified with distearyldimethylammonium chloride, such as, for example, the product sold under the name Bentone 38V^® by the company Elementis.

Mention may also be made of fumed silica, optionally hydrophobically surface- treated, the particle size of which is less than 1 μιτι. It is in fact possible to chemically modify the surface of the silica, by chemical reaction generating a decrease in the number of silanol groups present at the surface of the silica. It is in particular possible to replace silanol groups with hydrophobic groups: a hydrophobic silica is then obtained. The hydrophobic groups may be trimethylsiloxyl groups, which are in particular obtained by treatment of fumed silica in the presence of hexamethyldisilazane. Silicas treated in this way are called "Silica Silylate" according to the CTFA (8th Edition, 2000). They are, for example, sold under the references Aerosil R812^® by the company Degussa, Cab-O-Sil TS-530^® by the company Cabot; dimethylsilyloxyl groups or polydimethylsiloxane groups, which are in particular obtained by treatment of fumed silica in the presence of polydimethylsiloxane or of dimethyldichlorosilane. Silicas treated in this way are called "Silica dimethyl silylate" according to the CTFA (8th Edition, 2000). They are, for example, sold under the references Aerosil R972^® and Aerosil R974^® by the company Degussa, and Cab-O- Sil TS-610^® and Cab-O-Sil TS-720^® by the company Cabot. The hydrophobic fumed silica has in particular a particle size that may be nanometric to micrometric, for example ranging approximately from 5 to 200 nm.

Organic gelling agents The polymeric organic lipophilic gelling agents are, for example, partially or totally crosslinked elastomeric organopolysiloxanes having a three-dimensional structure, such as those sold under the names KSG6^®, KSG16^® and KSG18^® by the company Shin-Etsu, Trefil E-505C^® and Trefil E-506C^® by the company Dow Corning, Gransil SR-CYC^®, SR DMF 10^®, SR-DC556^®, SR 5CYC gel^®, SR DMF 10 gel^® and SR DC 556 gel^® by the company Grant Industries, and SF 1204^® and JK 1 13^® by the company General Electric; ethylcellulose, such as the product sold under the name Ethocel^® by the company Dow Chemical; galactomannans comprising from one to six, and in particular from two to four, hydroxyl groups per monosaccharide, substituted with a saturated or unsaturated alkyl chain, such as guar gum alkylated with Ci to C6, and in particular Ci to C3, alkyl chains and mixtures thereof; block copolymers of "diblock", "triblock" or "radial" type, of the polystyrene/polyisoprene or polystyrene/polybutadiene type, such as those sold under the name Luvitol HSB^® by the company BASF, of the polystyrene/copoly(ethylene-propylene) type, such as those sold under the name Kraton^® by the company Shell Chemical Co, or else of the polystyrene/copoly(ethylene-butylene) type, and blends of triblock and radial (star) copolymers in isododecane, such as those sold by the company Penreco under the name Versagel^®, for instance the blend of butylene/ethylene/styrene triblock copolymer and of ethylene/propylene/styrene star copolymer in isododecane (Versagel M 5960).

As lipophilic gelling agent, mention may also be made of polymers with a weight- average molecular weight of less than 100 000, comprising a) a polymeric backbone having hydrocarbon-based repeating units comprising at least one heteroatom and, optionally, b) at least one pendant fatty chain and/or at least one terminal fatty chain, which is (are) optionally functionalized, containing from 6 to 120 carbon atoms and being linked to these hydrocarbon-based units, as described in applications WO-A-02/056847 and WO-A-02/47619, the content of which is incorporated by way of reference; in particular, polyamide resins (especially comprising alkyl groups having from 12 to 22 carbon atoms), such as those described in US-A-5783657, the content of which is incorporated by way of reference.

Among the lipophilic gelling agents that can be used in the compositions according to the invention, mention may also be made of esters of dextrin and of a fatty acid, such as dextrin palmitates, in particular such as those sold under the names Rheopearl TL^® or Rheopearl KL^® by the company Chiba Flour. Use may also be made of silicone polyamides of the polyorganosiloxane type, such as those described in documents US-A-5,874,069, US-A-5,919,441 , US-A-6,051 ,216 and US-A-5,981 ,680. These silicone polymers may belong to the following two families:

- polyorganosiloxanes comprising at least two groups capable of establishing hydrogen interactions, these two groups being located in the polymer chain, and/or

- polyorganosiloxanes comprising at least two groups capable of establishing hydrogen interactions, these two groups being located on grafts or branches.

ANTIPERSPIRANT SALTS OR COMPLEXES

According to one particular embodiment of the invention, the compositions of the invention can contain at least one antiperspirant salt or complex.

The term "agent for treating perspiration" is intended to mean any substance which, by itself, has the effect of reducing the feeling, on the skin, of wetness linked to human sweat or of masking human sweat. The antiperspirant salts or complexes in accordance with the invention are generally selected from aluminium and/or zirconium salts or complexes. They are preferably selected from aluminium halohydrates; aluminium zirconium halohydrates, complexes of zirconium hydroxychloride and of aluminium hydroxychloride with or without an amino acid, such as those described in patent US 3 792 068.

Among the aluminium salts, mention may in particular be made of aluminium chlorohydrate in the activated or nonactivated form, aluminium chlorohydrex, the aluminium chlorohydrex polyethylene glycol complex, the aluminium chlorohydrex propylene glycol complex, aluminium dichlorohydrate, the aluminium dichlorohydrex polyethylene glycol complex, the aluminium dichlorohydrex propylene glycol complex, aluminium sesquichlorohydrate, the aluminium sesquichlorohydrex polyethylene glycol complex, the aluminium sesquichlorohydrex propylene glycol complex, or aluminium sulphate buffered with sodium aluminium lactate. Among the aluminium zirconium salts, mention may in particular be made of aluminium zirconium octachlorohydrate, aluminium zirconium pentachlorohydrate, aluminium zirconium tetrachlorohydrate or aluminium zirconium trichlorohydrate.

The complexes of zirconium hydroxychloride and of aluminium hydroxychloride with an amino acid are generally known under the name ZAG (when the amino acid is glycine). Among these products, mention may be made of the aluminium zirconium octachlorohydrex glycine, aluminium zirconium pentachlorohydrex glycine, aluminium zirconium tetrachlorohydrex glycine and aluminium zirconium trichlorohydrex glycine complexes.

The antiperspirant salts or complexes may be present in the composition according to the invention in a proportion of approximately 0.5% to 25% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

DEODORANT ACTIVE AGENTS

The compositions according to the invention may also contain one or more additional deodorant active agents.

The term "deodorant active agent" is used for any substance capable of masking, absorbing, improving and/or reducing the unpleasant odour resulting from the decomposition of human sweat by bacteria.

The deodorant active agents may be bacteriostatic agents or bactericidal agents which act on the microorganisms of axillary odours, such as 2,4,4'-trichloro-2'- hydroxydiphenyl ether (Triclosan^®), le 2,4-dichloro-2'-hydroxydiphenyl ether, 3',4',5'- trichlorosalicylanilide, 1 -(3',4'-dichlorophenyl)-3-(4'-chlorophenyl)urea (Triclocarban^®) or 3,7,1 1 -trimethyldodeca-2, 5,10-trienol (Farnesol^®); quaternary ammonium salts such as cetyltrimethylammonium salts or cetylpyridinium salts, DPTA (1 ,3- diaminopropanetetraacetic acid), 1 ,2-decanediol (Symclariol from the company Symrise), glycerol derivatives such as, for example, caprylic/capric glycerides (Capmul MCM from Abitec), glyceryl caprylate or caprate (Dermosoft GMCY and Dermosoft GMC, respectively, from Straetmans), polyglyceryl-2 caprate (Dermosoft DGMC from Straetmans), biguanide derivatives, such as polyhexamethylene biguanide salts, chlorhexidine and its salts; 4-phenyl-4,4-dimethyl-2-butanol (Symdeo MPP from Symrise).

Among the deodorant active agents in accordance with the invention, mention may also be made of:

- zinc salts, such as zinc salicylate, zinc gluconate, zinc pidolate; zinc sulphate, zinc chloride, zinc lactate, zinc phenolsulphonate; zinc ricinoleate;

- sodium bicarbonate;

- salicylic acid and its derivatives such as 5-n-octanoylsalicylic acid;

- silver zeolites or zeolites without silver;

- alum.

The deodorant active agents may be present preferably in the compositions according to the invention in weight concentrations ranging from 0.01 % to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. SUSPENDING AGENTS

In order to improve the homogeneity of the product, it is possible to use, in addition, one or more suspending agents which are preferably selected from hydrophobic modified montmorillonite clays, such as hydrophobic modified bentonites or hectorites. Mention may, for example, be made of the product Stearalkonium Bentonite (CTFA name) (reaction product of bentonite and of the quaternary ammonium stearalkonium chloride), such as the commercial product sold under the name Tixogel MP 250 by the company Sud Chemie Rheologicals, United Catalysts Inc., or the product Disteardimonium Hectorite (CTFA name) (reaction product of hectorite and of distearyldimonium chloride), sold under the name Bentone 38 or Bentone Gel by the company Elementis Specialities.

The suspending agents are preferably present in amounts ranging from 0.1 % to 5% by weight, and more preferably from 0.2% to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

ORGANIC POWDER

According to one particular embodiment of the invention, the compositions according to the invention will also contain an organic powder.

In the present application, the term "organic powder" is intended to mean any solid which is insoluble in the medium at ambient temperature (25°C).

As organic powders that can be used in the composition of the invention, mention may, for example, be made of polyamide particles, and in particular those sold under the name Orgasol by the company Atochem; polyethylene powders; microspheres based on acrylic copolymers, such as those made of ethylene glycol dimethacrylate/lauryl methacrylate copolymer, sold by the company Dow Corning under the name Polytrap; microspheres of poly(methyl methacrylate), sold under the name Microsphere M-100 by the company Matsumoto or under the name Covabead LH85 by the company Wackherr; hollow poly(methyl methacrylate) microspheres (particle size: 6.5 - 10.5 μ) sold under the name Ganzpearl GMP 0800 by Ganz Chemical; methyl methacrylate/ethylene glycol dimethacrylate copolymer microbeads (size: 6.5-10.5 μ) sold under the name Ganzpearl GMP 0820 by Ganz Chemical or Microsponge 5640 by the company Amcol Health & Beauty Solutions; ethylene- acrylate copolymer powders, such as those sold under the name Flobeads by the company Sumitomo Seika Chemicals; expanded powders such as hollow microspheres, and in particular the microspheres formed from a vinylidene chloride/acrylonitrile/methacrylate terpolymer and sold under the name Expancel by the company Kemanord Plast under the references 551 DE 12 (particle size of approximately 12 μηη and density 40 kg/m³), 551 DE 20 (particle size of approximately 30 μιτι and density 65 kg/m³), and 551 DE 50 (particle size of approximately 40 μιτι), or the microspheres sold under the name Micropearl F 80 ED by the company Matsumoto; powders of natural organic materials, such as starch powders, in particular crosslinked or noncrosslinked maize, wheat or rice starch powders, such as the powders of starch crosslinked with octenylsuccinic anhydride, sold under the name Dry-Flo by the company National Starch; silicone resin microbeads such as those sold under the name Tospearl by the company Toshiba Silicone, in particular Tospearl 240; amino acid powders such as the lauroyllysine powder sold under the name Amihope LL-1 1 by the company Ajinomoto; particles of wax microdispersion, which preferably have average sizes of less than 1 μιτι, and in particular ranging from 0.02 μιτι to 1 μιτι, and which are essentially constituted of a wax or of a mixture of waxes, such as the products sold under the name Aquacer by the company Byk Cera, and in particular: Aquacer 520 (mixture of synthetic and natural waxes), Aquacer 514 or 513 (polyethylene wax), Aquacer 51 1 (polymeric wax), or such as the products sold under the name Jonwax 120 by the company Johnson Polymer (mixture of polyethylene and paraffin waxes) and under the name Ceraflour 961 by the company Byk Cera (micronized modified polyethylene wax); and mixtures thereof.

ADDITIVES

The cosmetic compositions according to the invention may also comprise cosmetic adjuvants selected from emollients, antioxidants, opacifiers, stabilizers, moisturizers, vitamins, bactericides, preservatives, polymers, fragrances, thickeners, propellants or any other ingredient normally used in cosmetics for this type of application.

Of course, those skilled in the art will take care to select this or these optional additional compound(s) in such a way that the advantageous properties intrinsically associated with the cosmetic composition in accordance with the invention are not, or are not substantially, impaired by the addition(s) envisaged.

The thickeners, preferably nonionic thickeners, may be selected from modified or nonmodified guar gums and celluloses, such as hydroxypropyl guar gum or cetylhydroxyethylcellulose, and silicas, for instance Bentone Gel MIO sold by the company NL Industries or Veegum Ultra sold by the company Polyplastic.

The thickeners may also be cationic, such as, for example, the Polyquaternium-37 sold under the name Salcare SC95 (polyquaternium-37 (and) mineral oil (and) PPG-1 trideceth-6) or Salcare SC96 (polyquaternium-37 (and) propylene glycol dicaprylate/dicaprate (and) PPG-1 -trideceth-6), or other crosslinked cationic polymers such as, for example, those having the CTFA name ethyl acrylate/dimethylamino ethyl methacrylate cationic copolymer in emulsion.

The amounts of these various constituents that may be present in the cosmetic composition according to the invention are those conventionally used in compositions for the treatment of perspiration.

AEROSOLS

The compositions according to the invention may also be pressurized and be packaged in an aerosol device constituted of:

(A) a container comprising an antiperspirant composition as defined above,

(B) at least one propellant and a means of dispensing said aerosol composition.

The propellants generally used in products of this type, and which are well known to those skilled in the art, are, for instance, dimethyl ether (DME), volatile hydrocarbons such as n-butane, propane or isobutane, and mixtures thereof, optionally with at least one chlorinated and/or fluorinated hydrocarbon; among the latter, mention may be made of the compounds sold by the company Dupont de Nemours under the names Freon^® and Dymel^®, and in particular monofluorotrichloromethane, difluorodichloromethane, tetrafluorodichloroethane and 1 ,1 -difluoroethane, sold in particular under the trade name Dymel 152 A by the company Dupont. Carbon dioxide, nitrous oxide, nitrogen or compressed air may also be used as propellant.

The compositions containing the perlite particles as defined above and the propellant(s) may be in the same compartment or in different compartments in the aerosol container. According to the invention, the pressurized concentration of propellant generally ranges from 5% to 95% by weight, and more preferably from 50% to 85% by weight, relative to the total weight of the pressurized composition. The dispensing means, which forms part of the aerosol device, is generally constituted of a dispensing valve controlled by a dispensing head, itself comprising a nozzle via which the aerosol composition is vaporized. The container containing the pressurized composition may be opaque or transparent. It may be made of glass, of polymer or of metal, optionally covered with a layer of protective lacquer.

The examples which follow serve to illustrate the present invention. The amounts are given as percentage by mass relative to the total weight of the composition. The compounds are, as appropriate, cited as chemical names or as CTFA names (International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook).

EXAMPLES

The examples which follow serve to illustrate the present invention.

Example 1 - Roll-on emulsions

Example 2: Composition for deodorant anhydrous aerosol Ingredients (INCI name) Amounts as % by weight

TRIETHYL CITRATE CITROFLEX 2

1.0 (REILLY CHEMICALS)

STEARALKON 1 U M BENTONITE TIXOGEL MP 250 0.2 (SUD CHEMIE RHEOLOG.)

ISOPROPYL PALMITATE 0.9

Sakacin P 0.1

EXPANDED MILLED PERLITE 2.5

(OPTIMAT 1430 OR - WORLD MINERALS)

CYCLOPENTADIMETHYLSILOXANE 9 (DOW CORNING 245 FLUID- Dow Corning)

CYCLOPENTASILOXANE (and) DIMETHICONOL

1.3 (DOW CORNING 1501 FLUID (DOW CORNING))

ISOBUTANE (A-31 -AEROPRES) qs 100

The formulation is pressurised with isobutane.

Example 3: Composition for deodorant/antiperspirant anhydrous aerosol

The formulation is pressurised with isobutane. Example 4: Deodorant anhydrous stick

Ingredients (INCI Name) Amounts as % by weight

CYCLOPENTADIMETHYLSILOXANE Qs 100

(DOW CORNING 245 FLUID- DOW CORNING)

PPG-14 BUTYL ETHER

10.0

(UCON FLUID AP - AMERCHOL) HYDROGENATED CASTOR OIL 4.0 (CUTINA HR - COGNIS)

STEARYL ALCOHOL (LOROL C₁₈ -COGNIS) 14.0

PEG-8 DISTEARATE (STEARINERIES DUBOIS) 2.0

EXPANDED MILLED PERLITE 17

(OPTIMAT 1430 OR - WORLD MINERALS)

C12-15 ALKYL BENZOATE FINSOLV TN (WITCO) 15.0

PLANTARICIN A 0.1

Procedure:

The cydopentasiloxane is heated to 65°C. The other ingredients are added (1 by 1 ) with the temperature remaining at 65-70°C. The whole mixture is homogenised (transparent solution) for 15 minutes. The perlite is added. The mixture is cooled to approximately 55°C (a few °C above thickening of the mixture) and cast in sticks. The formulation is placed at 4°C for 30 minutes. Example 5: efficiency study

The efficiency of class II bacteriocins on the growth of C. xerosis, the main germ associated with unpleasant body odour, and of S. epidermidis, a commensal bacteria present on the skin - a beneficial microorganisms not responsible for unpleasant odour, has been assessed.

Plantaricin A, plantaricin C19, plantaricin 149 (class II bacteriocins) and nisin A (class la bacteriocin) have been tested at a concentration of 100 mg/L in DMSO on the growth of Corynebacterium xerosis (accession No. CIP 100653) and Staphylococcus epidermidis (accession No. ATCC 155).

Peptide efficiency has been tested on solid medium and confirmed in liquid culture medium. The experiments have been carried out at 26°C. Specifically, dishes containing each bacteria growing on solid medium were prepared. Then, wells were formed in the solid medium and filled with the test products which were the peptides mentioned above at 100 mg/L, Irgasan as a positive control (Irgasan is a strong non selective bactericidal product otherwise known as Thclosan) and water or DMSO as negative control. The results have shown that the negative controls were indeed harmless to the two germs and that Irgasan is efficient on both germs. An inhibitory effect of class II bacteriocins on the growth C. xerosis was observed but not on S. epidermidis. Growth of the bacteria was also tested in 2BHG2 liquid medium with the above mentioned products. Surprisingly, plantaricin A, plantaricin C19 and plantaricin 149 were able to inhibit the growth of C. xerosis but not of S. epidermidis.

Nisin A does not inhibit the growth of C. xerosis or S. epidermidis

Furthermore, a lag in the growth of C. xerosis has been induced by these class II bacteriocins while this effect is not observed with nisin A. Lag time is respectively 16, 22 and 46 hours for plantaricin A, plantaricin C19 and plantaricin 149, respectively.

Claims

1 . Use of a class II bacteriocin as a deodorant agent.

2. The use according to Clainn 1 , characterized in that the class II bacteriocin is a class II plantaricin, in particular a class II plantaricin selected in the group consisting of plantaricin A, plantaricin C19 and plantaricin 149.

3. The use according to Clainn 1 , characterized in that the bacteriocin is a class lla bacteriocin.

4. The use according to Clainn 3, characterized in that the class lla bacteriocin is selected in the group consisting of mesentericin Y105, sakacin P, curvacin A, coagulin, piscicolin 126, carnobacteriocin Bm1 , pediocin PA-1 , enterocin A, sakacin G, leucocin A, leucocin C, mundticin, mundticine KS, carnobacteriocin B2, bavaricin MN, bacteriocin 31 , enterocin P, bifidocin B, divercin V41 , plantaricin 423, plantaricin C19, sakacin 5X and lactococcin MMFII.

5. The use according to Clainn 4, characterized in that the class lla bacteriocin is selected in the group consisting of pediocin PA-1 , sakacin A and sakacin P.

6. The use according to any one of Claims 1 to 5, characterized in that the class II bacteriocin is combined with another class II bacteriocin and/or a class I and/or III bacteriocin.

7. The use according to Claim 6, characterized in that the class I bacteriocin is selected in the group consisting of nisin A, epidermin, salivaricin, plantaricin C and gallidermin.

8. The use according to any one of Claims 1 to 7, in which the class II bacteriocin, alone or in combination, is used as a deodorant active agent for the axilla.

9. A cosmetic method for treating body odours, comprising the application to the keratinous substances of a composition comprising at least one class II bacteriocin in an acceptable medium.

10. The method according to claim 9, characterized in that the class II bacteriocin is a class II plantaricin, in particular a class II plantaricin selected in the group consisting of plantaricin A, plantaricin C19 and plantaricin 149.

1 1 . The method according to Claim 9, characterized in that the bacteriocin is a class I la bacteriocin.

12. The method according to Claim 1 1 , characterized in that the class I la bacteriocin is selected in the group consisting of mesentericin Y105, sakacin P, curvacin A, coagulin, piscicolin 126, carnobacteriocin Bm1 , pediocin PA-1 , enterocin A, sakacin G, leucocin A, leucocin C, mundticin, mundticin KS, carnobacteriocin B2, bavaricin MN, bacteriocin 31 , enterocin P, bifidocin B, divercin V41 , plantaricin 423, plantaricin C19, sakacin 5X and lactococcin MMFII.

13. The method according to Claim 12, characterized in that the class I la bacteriocin is selected in the group consisting of pediocin PA-1 , sakacin A and sakacin P.

14. The method according to any one of Claims 9 to 13, characterized in that the composition also comprises another class II bacteriocin and/or a class I and/or III bacteriocin.

15. The method according to Claim 14, characterized in that the class I bacteriocin is selected in the group consisting of nisin A, epidermin, salivaricin, plantaricin C and gallidermin.

16. The method according to any one of Claims 1 to 15, for treating axillary odours.