WO2011073437A2

WO2011073437A2 - Bacteriocin- and prebiotic-based cosmetic or dermatological compositions

Info

Publication number: WO2011073437A2
Application number: PCT/EP2010/070167
Authority: WO
Inventors: Roxanne Gavillon; Jean-Thierry Simonnet
Original assignee: L'oreal
Priority date: 2009-12-17
Filing date: 2010-12-17
Publication date: 2011-06-23
Also published as: FR2954140A1; WO2011073437A3

Abstract

The invention relates to compositions containing, in a physiologically acceptable medium, the combination of at least one bacteriocin and at least one prebiotic. The invention also relates to the cosmetic uses and methods that implement the combination of a bacteriocin with a prebiotic.

Description

COSMETIC OR DERMATOLOGICAL COMPOSITIONS BASED ON

BACTERIOCINS AND PREBIOTICS

The present invention relates to compositions comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, the combination of at least one bacteriocin and at least one prebiotic. It also relates to cosmetic uses and processes involving the combination of at least one bacteriocin and at least one prebiotic. It still concerns the therapeutic use of this association.

Many bacteria grow naturally on the skin. They constitute the resident commensal flora of the skin and actively participate in maintaining its health. In particular, they play an important role in the resistance to colonization of saprophite and potentially pathogenic microorganisms. The cutaneous flora is composed of several species identified so far: Staphylococci (S.epidermis, S.hominis, S.haemolyticus, S.aureus), Corynebacteria (C.lipophiles, C.urealyticum, C.minutissimum, C.jeikeium) , Propionibacteria (P. acnes, P. avidum, P. granulosum, P.propionicum), Micrococci (M.luteus, M.varians), Streptococci (groups A, B and G), Brevibacteries.

In the field of cosmetics, it is well known to use, in topical application, deodorant products containing active substances of the anti-perspirant or bactericidal type in order to reduce or even eliminate body odors, in particular axillary odors, which are generally unpleasant. The axillary microflora is mainly composed of Gram + bacteria, such as staphylococci (eg, S.epidermidis, S.hominis, etc.), coryneforms (more particularly C.xerosis), micrococci (eg, M.Luteus) and Propionibacteria. . The axillary bad odors are attributed to the microbial biotransformation of natural, odorless secretions into volatile odorants. Strong axillary odors are mainly related to the presence of C. xerosis in this area.

Many skin disorders are related to the rupture of the ecological balance of the resident flora following the colonization of the skin by exogenous germs or at the abnormal proliferation of an endogenous strain. In particular, this phenomenon can be observed in the development of body odors, especially axillary and foot smells (mainly C. Xerosis for axillary smells and B. linens for foot smells), in people with sensitive skin, especially in cases atopic dermatitis, eczema (responsible germ: S.aureus), in the production of dandruff (mainly M. furfur), or in people whose skin is prone to fatty or hyperseborrhoeic (P. acnes) and acne (germ responsible: P. acnes). To combat these microorganisms, it is common to use antibiotics or bactericides. The use of these compounds, however, raises the problem of the non-specificity of action aimed indifferently at the pathogenic flora and the resident flora, and the problem of the risk of the appearance of bacterial resistance, as well as skin tolerance problems (irritations, allergies). , ...).

There is still a need for compounds that apply to the skin to allow the growth and / or survival of the desired bacteria in the skin microflora (resident flora) and oppose the growth and / or survival of unwanted bacteria present on the skin. skin (exogenous germs).

The application FR 2 916 634 proposes the combination of a fructooligosaccharide and an inducer of antimicrobial peptides to improve the quality of the microbial flora or restore its equilibrium. There remains, however, the need for improved cosmetic compositions and treatments to restore a normal balance of cutaneous microbial flora.

The Applicant has surprisingly and unexpectedly discovered that this effect can be achieved by using the combination of at least one prebiotic and at least one bacteriocin.

This discovery is the basis of the invention. The subject of the present invention is therefore the combination of at least one bacteriocin and at least one prebiotic, as well as a cosmetic and / or dermatological composition comprising this combination.

The present invention also relates to the use of said combination as a cosmetic agent.

It also relates to a cosmetic and / or dermatological composition comprising said combination in a physiologically acceptable medium.

Another subject of the invention also relates to a cosmetic process for treating keratin materials, comprising the application of such a composition to keratin materials.

Other objects of the invention will appear in the following description.

"Physiologically acceptable medium" means a medium compatible with the skin and / or its integuments or mucous membranes which has a pleasant color, odor and feel and which does not generate unacceptable discomfort (tingling, tightness, redness), likely to divert the consumer from using this composition.

By "keratin materials" is meant the skin (body, face, eye area, scalp), hair, eyelashes, eyebrows, hair, nails, lips, mucous membranes.

bacteriocins

Bacteriocins are peptide compounds naturally synthesized by certain bacteria. They play an important role in the competition between bacterial strains. The bacteriocins can be bactericidal, that is to say eliminate certain microorganisms and / or they can be bacteriostatic, that is to say, inhibit the growth of certain microorganisms. The bactericidal or bacteriostatic activity is directed against certain species close to the producing strain.

The bacteriocins are generally cationic and amphiphilic peptides, responsible for the permeabilization of the membrane of the target cells. Indeed, they bind to certain membrane receptors and cause the formation of pores. The membrane is thus made permeable to certain compounds such as ions or molecules. This is usually lethal to the target bacteria.

Classification of bacteriocins

The bacteriocins are classified according to structural data in four classes, as proposed by Klaenhammer (1993). These four classes are:

Class I. Lantibiotics: peptides smaller than 5 kDa, heat-stable and containing unusual sulfur-containing amino acids formed post-translationally, ie lanthionine, β-methyl lanthionine, dehydrobutyrin and dehydroalanine. They can be divided into two types: class Ia which comprises elongated hydrophobic cationic peptides containing up to 34 amino acids and class Ib which comprises negatively charged or no net charge globular peptides and containing up to 19 amino acids (McAuliffe et al., 2001, Twomey et al., 2002). There are also two-component class I bacteriocins such as cytolysin, lacticin 3147 and plantaricin W (see Table 3).

By way of illustration, Class I bacteriocins which may be used according to the invention may be nisin A, epidermine, subtilin, lactocin S, salivaricin A or plantaricin C.

In particular, the class I bacteriocins described in Tables 1, 2 and 3 below can be used. Table 1: Examples of class la bacteriocins

* as they appear in the chapter "Bacteriocins of lactic acid bacteria" (Morisset et al.) of the book Lactic and Probiotic Bacteria, LUQUET François-Marie, CORRIEU Georges; ed. Lavoisier

Table 2: Examples of class Ib bacteriocins

Table 3: Examples of two-component Class I bacteriocins

Class II. Peptides less than 10 kDa, heat stable, not containing modified amino acids. The sequences of some bacteriocins belonging to this class are shown in Table 4.

Table 4: Sequences of some class II bacteriocins Class Ma: "Pediocin-like bacteriocin"

Mesentericin MTNMKSVEAYQQLDNQNLKKVVGGKYYGNGVHCTKSGCSVNWGEAASAGIH Y105 RLANGGNGFW (SEQ ID NO: 1)

Sakacin P MEKFIELSLKEVTAITGGKYYGNGVHCGKHSCTVDWGTAIGNIGNNAAANWAT

GWNAGG (SEQ ID NO: 2)

Curvacin A MNNVKELSMTELQTITGGARSYGNGVYCNNKKCWVNRGEATQSIIGGMISGW

ASGLAGM (SEQ ID NO: 3)

Piscicoline 126 MKTVKELSVKEMQLTTGGKYYGNGVSCNKNGCTVDWSKAIGIIGNNAAANLTT

GGAAGWNKG (SEQ ID NO: 4)

Carnobacteriocin MKSVKELNKKEMWWGGAGAYGNGVYCNKEKCWVNKAENKQAITGIVIGGW Bm 1 ASSLAGMGH (SEQ ID NO: 5)

Pediocin PA-1 MKKIEKLTEKE M AN 11 G G KY YG N G VTCG KH SCS VD WG KATTC 11 N N G AM AWAT

GGHQGNHKC (SEQ ID NO: 6)

Enterocin A MKHLKILSIKETWLIYGGTTHSGKYYGNGVYCTKNKCTVDWAKATTCIAGMSIG

GFLGGAIPGKC (SEQ ID NO: 7)

Sakacin G MKNTRSLTIQEIKSITGGKYYGNGVSCNSHGCSVNWGQAWTCGVNHLANGGH

GGVC (SEQ ID NO: 8)

Mb class: "Two-peptides bacteriocin"

ABP-1 18 a KRGPNCVGNFLGGLFAGAAAGVPLGPAGIVGGANLGMVGGALTCL (SEQ ID

NO: 9)

β KNGYGGSGNRWVHCGAGIVGGALIGAIGGPWSAVAGGISGGFTSCR (SEQ ID NO: 10)

Lactocin 705 a MDNLNKFKKLSDNKLQATIGG (SEQ ID NO: 1 1)

β MESNKLEKFANISNKDLNKITGG (SEQ ID NO: 12)

Lactococcin MN M IRGTGKGLAAAMVSGAAMGGAIGAFGGPVGAIMGAWGGAVGGAMKYSI

(SEQ ID NO: 13)

## STR1 ##

Plantaricin EF E FNRGGYNFGKSVRHVVDAIGSVAGIRGILKSIR (SEQ ID NO: 15)

F VFHAYSARGVRNNYKSAVGPADWVISAVRGFIHG (SEQ ID NO: 16)

Island Class

Plantaricin A MKIQIKGMKQLSNKEMQKIVGGKSSAYSLQMGATAIKQVKKLFKKWGW (SEQ

ID NO: 17)

Lactococcin A MKNQLNFNIVSDEELSEANGGKLTFIQSTAAGDLYYNTNTHKYVYQQTQNAFG

## STR1 ##

Lactococcin 972 MKTKSLVLALSAVTLFSAGGIVAQAEGTWQHGYGVSSAYSNYHHGSKTHSATV

VN N NTG RQG KDTQRAG VWAKATVG RN LTEKASFYYN FW (SEQ ID NO: 19)

Class II is divided into three subclasses. The bacteriocins of the subclass Ma are peptides having a structure similar to that of pediocin, which was the first bacteriocin of this group described. The bacteriocins of the subclass Ma contain between 27 and 48 amino acids and all have a hydrophobic N-terminal portion containing the YGNGV consensus sequence as well as a disulfide bridge and a less conserved, hydrophobic or amphiphilic C-terminal portion which determines the specificity of action (Fimland et al., 2000, Richard et al., 2006). This class may also be more particularly defined as possessing in particular a conserved N-terminal sequence YGNGVxCxxxxCxV (Klaenhammer, 1993, Ennahar et al., 2000, Nés and Holo, 2000). They all have anti-Listeria activity. Some bacteriocins of this subclass also contain a second bridge disulfide in their C-terminal domain that appears to be important in the stabilization of the tertiary structure. It also appears to provide better antimicrobial activity, better resistance to high temperature exposure, and a broader spectrum of action (Eijsink et al., 1998, Fimland et al., 2000; al., 2006, Richard et al., 2006). Subclass Mb comprises the bacteriocins in need of two peptides for activity. Two types of class Mb bacteriocins can be distinguished: type E (Enhancing) where the function of one of the two peptides is to increase the activity of the other and type S (Synergy) where the two peptides are complementary . The subclass Ile contains the bacteriocins that can not be classified in the other subclasses.

By way of example of class Ma bacteriocins that can be used according to the invention, mention may be made of the bacteriocins of Table 5. It is also possible to mention coagulin. Table 5: Examples of class Ma bacteriocins

By way of example of class Mb bacteriocins that can be used according to the invention, mention may be made of lactococcin G, lactacin, lactocaine 705, thermophilin and plantaricin. EF, leucocin, carnocine, acidocine. In particular, mention may be made of the bacteriocins listed in Table 6 below.

Table 6: Examples of class Mb bacteriocins

By way of example of Ile-class bacteriocins which can be used according to the invention, mention may be made of the bacteriocins listed in Table 7 below.

Table 7: Examples of class Ile class bacteriocins

Bacteriocins (peptides) Producers References

Acidocin B Lactobacillus acidophilus M46 Leer et al., 1995

Carnobacterium divergens

Divergicin A Worobo et al., 1995

LV13

Enterococcus P Enterococcus faecium P13 Cintas et al., 1997

Bacteriocin 31 Enterococcus faecalis 31 Tomita et al., 1996

Lactococcin 972 Lactococcus lactis IPLA 972 Martinez et al., 1999

Enterococcus faecium Enterococcus 6T1a Quadri et al., 1994

Enterococcus faecium enterococci L50 Cintas et al., 2000

Lactobacillus acidophilus

Acidocin 8912 Kanatani et al., 1995b

TK8912

Bacteriocin AS-48 Enterococcus faecalis Mendoza et al., 1999

Gassericin A Lactobacillus gasseri LA39 Kawai et al., 1998

Lactococcin A Lactococcus lactis Van Belkum et al., 1991c; Morgan et al., 1995

Lactococcin B Lactococcus lactis Van Belkum et al., 1992

Lactococcus lactis spp.

Diacetin B Ali et al., 1995

diacetylactis UL720

Carnobacterium piscicola Holck et al., 1994;

Carnobacteriocin A

LV17A Worobo et al., 1994

Lactobacillus amylovorus LMG

Lactobin A Contreras et al., 1997

P-13139

Divergicin 750 Carnobacterium divergens 750 Holck et al., 1996

Enterococcus faecium Bogovic-Matijasic et al., 1998;

Enterococcus B

T136 / C492 and BFE900 Franz et al., 1999

Peptide A Lactobacillus acidophilus LF221 Tahara et al., 1997

Peptide B Lactobacillus acidophilus LF221 Tahara et al., 1997

Leuconostoc mesenteroides

Leucocin B-TA33a Papathanasopoulos et al., 1998

TA33a

Gassericin B3 Lactobacillus gasseri JCM 2124 Tahara et al., 1997

Brévicine Lactobacillus brevis Benoit et al., 1997

Lactobacillus plantarum

Plantaricin 1.25β Ehrmann et al., 2000

TMW1.25

Leuconostoc mesenteroides Revol-Junelles et al., 1996;

Mesentericin B105

spp. mesenteroides Y105 Hechard et al., 1999

* as they appear in the chapter "Bacteriocins of lactic acid bacteria" (Morisset et al.) of the book Lactic and Probiotic Bacteria, LUQUET François-Marie, CORRIEU Georges; ed. Lavoisier Plantaricin 149 is a class II bacteriocin of sequence YSLQMGATAIKQVKKLFKKKGG (SEQ ID NO: 20).

Class III. Proteins larger than 30 kDa and sensitive to heat. The structure and mode of action of these bacteriocins differs completely from other bacteriocins produced by lactic acid bacteria. To date, four bacteriocins of this class have been identified: helveticin J produced by Lactobacillus helveticus A, enterolysin A produced by Enterococcus faecium, zoocin A produced by Spreptococcus zooepidemicus and millericin B produced by Streptococcus milleri (Nilsen et al. al., 2003; Papagianni 2003; Nigutova et al. 2007).

By way of example of class III bacteriocins that can be used according to the invention, mention may be made of the bacteriocins listed in Table 8 below.

Table 8: Examples of class III bacteriocins

Bacteriocins (peptides) Producers References

Helvecitin J Lactobacillus helveticus 481 Joerger and Klaenhammer 1990

Streptococcus milleri NMSCC

Millericin B Beukes et al., 2000

061

Streptococcus zooepidermicus

Zoocine A Simmonds et al., 1996

4881 * as they appear in the chapter "Bacteriocins of lactic acid bacteria" (Morisset et al.) of the book Lactic and Probiotic Bacteria, LUQUET François-Marie, CORRIEU Georges; ed. Lavoisier Class IV. Peptides requiring a carbohydrate or lipid portion to have activity. No bacteriocin of this class has been described.

The bacteriocins used in the present invention can be produced by any suitable method known to those skilled in the art. They can be synthesized easily by the skilled person using conventional techniques of peptide synthesis, solid phase or in solution (M. Bodanszky, Principles of Peptide Synthesis, ^2nd ed., 1993, Springer-Verlag Edition). The bacteriocins used according to the invention can also be produced by microorganisms, using bioengineering methods. In this case, it may be necessary to extract and purify the peptide producing microorganisms, before formulation. In a preferred embodiment, the bacteriocins used according to the invention are synthetic peptides.

According to a particular embodiment, the bacteriocin used is a class I bacteriocin. The class I bacteriocin may especially be chosen from those mentioned above. In particular, class I bacteriocin may be selected from the group consisting of the bacteriocins listed in Tables 1, 2 and 3. According to another particular embodiment, class I bacteriocin is selected from the group consisting of nisin A , epidermin, salivaricin A, plantaricin C and gallidermin.

According to a particular embodiment, the bacteriocin used is a class II bacteriocin, in particular a class Ma, Mb or Ile bacteriocin. In particular, the subject of the invention is the use of at least one of the class I bacteriocins mentioned above, more particularly a class Ma bacteriocin chosen from the group consisting of the bacteriocins listed in Table 4. or 5. In a particular embodiment, the class Ma bacteriocin is selected from the group consisting of pediocin PA-1, sakacin A and sakacin P. According to a particular embodiment, the bacteriocin used is a bacteriocin of Mb class. In particular, the subject of the invention is the use of at least one of the class Mb bacteriocins mentioned above, more particularly a class Mb bacteriocin selected from the group consisting of bacteriocins listed in Table 4 or 6. According to another particular embodiment, the bacteriocin used is a class Ile bacteriocin. . In particular, the subject of the invention is the use of at least one of the Ile class bacteriocins mentioned above, more particularly an Ile-class bacteriocin chosen from the group consisting of the bacteriocins listed in Table 4. or 7.

According to a preferred embodiment, the bacteriocin used is a plantaricin class II. More preferably, the plantaricin class II is selected from plantaricin A, plantaricin C19 and plantaricin 149.

According to one particular embodiment, the bacteriocin in the combination is a type III bacteriocin. Type III bacteriocin may more particularly be selected from the group consisting of helveticin J, enterolysin A, zooein A and millericin B.

According to a particular embodiment, the combination according to the invention comprises a single bacteriocin. According to an alternative embodiment, the combination according to the invention comprises several bacteriocins. It can be in particular a mixture comprising several bacteriocins of the same class, or comprising bacteriocins of different classes (for example, class I + class II, class I + class III, class II + class III). The combination according to the invention may therefore comprise the mixture of the following bacteriocins:

at least one of the class I bacteriocides of Tables 1, 2 and 3 with at least one Class II bacteriocin, in particular Ma, Mb or Ile, more particularly chosen from those listed in Tables 4 and 5. Preferably Class II bacteriocin is a class II plantaricin, in particular plantaricin A, plantaricin C19 or plantaricin 149;

at least one class I bacteriocin selected from the group consisting of nisin A, epidermin, salivaricin A, plantaricin C and gallidermine, with class II bacteriocin selected from the group consisting of pediocin PA-1, sakacin A and sakacin P.

PREBIOTIC

In the context of the present invention, the "prebiotics" are oligosaccharides and / or polysaccharides consisting of 2 to 100 sugar units, preferably 2 to 30 sugar units. The first official definition given by Gibson et al. in 1995 is the following "non-digestible substance that induces a physiological effect beneficial to the host by specifically stimulating the growth and / or activity of a limited number of bacterial populations already established in the colon".

According to the present invention, one or more prebiotics are used in order to maintain a favorable environment for the development of endogenous cutaneous flora. In particular, prebiotics are used to guide the metabolism of the entire skin flora to maintain a good balance of the latter while not promoting the development of certain pathogenic bacteria. As such, the prebiotics used in the context of the present invention are those likely to be metabolized by the beneficial bacteria of the skin flora. According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the prebiotic used in the compositions of the invention is a prebiotic metabolized by the beneficial seeds of the skin, but which are not metabolizable by the undesirable germs responsible for skin disorders, including cosmetic or dermatological treatment. is desired. According to this embodiment, prebiotics modulate the composition and / or the activity of the natural ecosystem, giving priority to microorganisms having a positive effect on the skin.

In a particular embodiment, a mixture of prebiotics is used in the compositions, uses and processes according to the invention.

Prebiotics contain carbohydrates. They are more specifically composed of oligosaccharides. The oligosaccharides may be produced in particular from glucose, galactose, xylose, maltose, sucrose, lactose, starch, xylan, hemicellulose, inulin, gums, especially from acacia gum, or a mixture thereof.

By way of example, the following prebiotic ingredients may be mentioned.

inulin

Inulin is particularly abundant in the rhizomes of plants, notably the Jerusalem artichoke and the chicory from which it is extracted industrially. It is also found in other plants belonging to the family Asteraceae such as Jerusalem artichokes or dahlias onions and burdock. It is considered a soluble dietary fiber.

The inulins are polydispersed linear polymers of general formula GFn (G = glucose, F = Fructose, n varying from 2 to more than 60), the fructose units being linked together by a β bond (2 → 1). Inulins therefore correspond to a chain of fructose units terminated by a glucose unit.

Among the usable and commercially available inulins, there may be mentioned Inutec H25P n between 2 and 7 Inutec N25 Orafti (n average = 25).

Fructooligosaccharides The fructo-oligosaccharides (or FOS) correspond to the general formula G (F) _n where G is a glucose, F fructose unit and n ranges from 1 to 10. The fructo-oligosaccharides (FOS) are produced either by partial enzymatic hydrolysis inulin (eg Raftilose® from Orafti-Belgium), or by enzymatic synthesis from sucrose (eg Actilight® from Beghin Meiiji industries-France).

According to a particular embodiment, the prebiotic used in the invention corresponds to a mixture of FOS. In particular, mention may be made of GF2 + GF3 + GF4 blends such as the Quantom FOS95 from Quantum Hi-Tech or Actilight® from Beghin Meiiji Industries-France, the latter corresponding to a GF2 37%, GF3 53% and GF4 mixture. %.

GOS qluco-oliqosaccharides

Gluco-oligosaccharides (or GOS) are oligosaccharides consisting of a sequence of glucose units linked at a1 -6 and which may also contain α1 -2, α1-3 bonds; a1 -4. They are synthesized by a transglucosylation reaction catalyzed by enzymes of the glucan saccharase family.

Among the GOS that can be used and commercially available, mention may be made of Bioecolia® from Solabia.

Oligosaccharides from soy

They are extracted directly from the soybean and do not require any enzyme treatment. They naturally contain raffinose and stachyose, whose formula is [αD-Gal- (1 → 6) -] _m- αD-Glu- (1 → 2) - -D-Fru with m = 1 for raffinose and n = 2 for stachyose.

Among the oligosaccharides that can be derived that may be used, mention may be made of Soya-oligo from calpis food ind. Japan Pyrodextrines:

Pyrodextrins are a mixture of oligosaccharides derived from the hydrolysis of starch. Isomaltooligosaccharide

They are produced from starch. These are glucose oligomers bound to a (1-6) with a degree of polymerization of between 2 and 5. By way of example, the Showa Sango lsomalto900P can be used.

Xylooliqosaccharide

The xylo-oligosaccharide oligosaccharides consist of β (1 -4) -linked xylose.

For example, the Xylo 95P from Suntory limited can be used. Transqalactooliqosaccharide

They are linear oligomers of galactose, of chemical structure a-D-Glucose- (1 → 4) - [-D-Galactose- (1 → 6) -] n (2 <n <5) obtained by fermentation of lactose.

For example, the TOS 100 from Yakult Honsha Co.Ltd. Japan.

Mix of prebiotics

According to a particular embodiment, the prebiotic component used in the combination according to the invention corresponds to a mixture of prebiotics as defined above. In a variant, it may be a mixture of prebiotics of the same type. For example, as mentioned above, it is possible to use a mixture of FOS, in particular a GF2 + GF3 + GF4 mixture, such as Quantom FOS95 from Quantum Hi-Tech or Actilight® from Beghin Meiiji Industries-France, the latter corresponding to a mixture GF2 37%, GF3 53% and GF4 10%.

According to another variant, it may be a mixture of prebiotics of different types. The invention relates in particular to the use of a mixture of inulin with a GOS, an FOS, oligosaccharides derived from soya, pyrodextrins, an isomaltooligosachharide, a xylooligosaccharide and / or a transgalactooligosaccharide. According to a particular embodiment, we put in A mixture of inulin and a GOS such as Bioline Gova Ingredients. The invention also relates to the use of a mixture of a GOS with an inulin, a FOS, oligosaccharides derived from soybean, pyrodextrins, an isomaltooligosachharide, a xylooligosaccharide and / or a transgalactooligosaccharide. More particularly, it is possible to use a mixture of GOS, FOS and probiotics (Lactobacillus) such as Solabia Ecoskin.

ASSOCIATION

The present invention relates to the combination of at least one bacteriocin with at least one prebiotic.

According to a particular embodiment, the combination comprises at least one prebiotic chosen from among inulin, an FOS, a GOS, an isomaltooligosaccharide and a xylooligosaccharide. According to a preferred embodiment, the prebiotic is chosen from an FOS, an isomaltooligosaccharide and a xylooligosaccharide. According to another embodiment, the prebiotic is a mixture of prebiotics, for example an inulin + GOS or GOS + FOS + probiotic mixture. According to a first variant of this embodiment, the combination also comprises a class I bacteriocin, in particular a bacteriocin chosen from Tables 1, 2 and 3, and in particular a bacteriocin chosen from the group consisting of nisin A, epidermin, salivaricin A, plantaricin C and gallidermin. According to a second variant of this embodiment, the combination comprises at least one class II bacteriocin, in particular class Ma, in particular a bacteriocin chosen from Tables 4 and 5, and in particular a bacteriocin selected from the group consisting of pediocin PA-1, sakacin A and sakacin P. According to a form of this second variant, class II bacteriocin is a class II plantaricin, in particular a plantaricin class II selected from plantaricin A, plantaricin C19 and plantaricin 149.

According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the bacteriocin is a plantaricin class II, in particular a class II plantaricin chosen from plantaricin A, plantaricin C19 and plantaricin 149 and the prebiotic is selected from an FOS, an isomaltooligosaccharide and a xylooligosaccharide.

According to a particular embodiment, the invention relates to the combination of nisin A with a GOS, in particular GOS marketed by Solabia under the name Bioecolia.

According to another particular embodiment, the invention relates to the combination of nisin A with a FOS, in particular the Actilight mentioned above.

According to yet another embodiment, the invention relates to the combination of epidermidine with a GOS, in particular GOS marketed by Solabia under the name Bioecolia. According to another particular embodiment, the invention relates to the combination of plantaricin 149 with a FOS, in particular the Actilight mentioned above.

The invention also relates to the use of the combination as described above, as a cosmetic active.

In particular, it relates to the use of the combination according to the invention as a skin care and / or cleansing agent, in particular as a care agent for sensitive, irritated skin, presenting eczema or atopic dermatitis, or as a care agent and / or cleansing for oily skin, in particular oily skin with acne or hyperseborrheic tendency. It also relates to the use of the combination according to the invention as anti-dandruff agent or deodorant agent.

The invention also relates to the use of an association as described above for the manufacture of a composition (cosmetic and / or dermatological) intended to prevent and / or treat acne and / or hyperseborrhoea. The invention also relates to the use of an association as described above for the manufacture of a composition (cosmetic and / or dermatological) intended to prevent and / or treat skin irritation, eczema , or atopic dermatitis.

The invention further relates to the use of a bacteriocin as a skin care and / or cleansing agent, in particular as a care agent for sensitive, irritated skin with eczema. or atopic dermatitis or as a care agent and / or cleansing agent for oily skin, in particular oily skin with an acne or hyperseborrhoeic tendency. The invention also relates to the use of a bacteriocin as defined above, for the manufacture of a composition for the treatment of sensitive skin, irritated skin, eczema, or atopic dermatitis. The invention also relates to a cosmetic and / or dermatological composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, the combination as described above.

According to one variant, the invention also relates to a cosmetic and / or dermatological composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least one type III bacteriocin.

Each bacteriocin present in the compositions according to the invention is advantageously present at a concentration of between 0.0001% and 1% of active material relative to the total weight of the composition.

According to a particular embodiment, the prebiotics (that is, the prebiotic or the mixture of prebiotics as defined above) are used at a level of between 0.01% and 70% by weight relative to the total weight. of the composition containing them. Preferably, they are present at a level of between 0.01% and 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. The cosmetic and / or dermatological compositions according to the invention may be deodorant compositions, for the care and / or the cleaning of the skin, in particular for the care of sensitive, irritated skin, presenting with eczema or atopic dermatitis or for the care and / or the cleansing of oily skin, in particular oily skin with an acne or hyperseborrhoeic tendency. The compositions according to the invention can also be compositions for the treatment of films.

GALENIC FORMS

The compositions according to the invention may be in any of the galenic forms conventionally used in the intended application. Of course, those skilled in the art will take care to choose the components and any additional ingredients and / or active agents, and / or their quantity, in such a way that the advantageous properties of the combination of at least one bacteriocin and at least one a prebiotic according to the invention are not, or not substantially, impaired by the addition envisaged.

* Deodorant composition When the composition according to the invention is a deodorant composition, it may be in the form of suspension, dispersion, solution, gel, emulsions (in particular of liquid or semi-liquid, soft, semi-liquid consistency). solid or solid), in particular oil-in-water (O / W), wax-in-water or water-in-oil (W / O) emulsion, or multiple (E / H / E or polyol / H / E or H / E / H), in the form of cream, paste, foam, microemulsion, dispersion of vesicles, in particular ionic lipids or not, wax / aqueous phase dispersions, two-phase or multiphase lotion, pulp, especially soft dough. It may especially be in the form of an aqueous gel or an aqueous or hydroalcoholic solution. The compositions according to the invention may be in the form of a protection, treatment or care composition for the face, for the hands or for the body (for example, day creams, night cream, make-up removal cream, anti-solar composition, body protection or care milk, after-sun milks, lotion, gel or mousse for skin care); an aftershave composition.

They can also be used for makeup.

According to one embodiment, the compositions are compositions for coating the skin of the body or of the face, more particularly compositions for makeup or care of the skin of the body or of the face, such as, for example, foundations or hair compositions. body makeup.

Those skilled in the art may choose the appropriate dosage form, as well as its method of preparation, on the basis of its general knowledge, taking into account, on the one hand, the nature of the constituents used, in particular their solubility in the support, and on the other hand, the intended application for each composition.

The compositions may in particular be packaged in pressurized form in an aerosol device or in a pump bottle; packaged in a device provided with a perforated wall including a grid; packaged in a device provided with a ball-on applicator; packaged in the form of sticks (sticks), in the form of loose or compacted powder; or else applied on wipes. The compositions may also be in the form of soaps or gels (rinsed or not rinsed). They contain in this respect the ingredients generally used in this type of products and well known to those skilled in the art. According to another particular form of the invention, the compositions according to the invention can be anhydrous. An anhydrous composition according to the invention may especially be in the form of a stick, a cream, a soft-solid or an aerosol.

By anhydrous composition is meant a composition containing less than 2% by weight of water, or even less than 0.5% of water, and especially free of water, the water not being added during the preparation of the composition but corresponding to the residual water provided by the mixed ingredients. According to another particular form of the invention, the compositions according to the invention can be solid, in particular in the form of a stick or a stick.

By "solid composition" it is meant that the measurement of the maximum force measured in texturometry during the insertion of a probe into the sample of formula must be at least 0.25 Newton, in particular at least equal to 0.30 Newton, especially at least 0.35 Newton, appreciated under precise measurement conditions as follows. The formulas are poured hot in pots 4 cm in diameter and 3 cm deep. Cooling is done at room temperature. The hardness of the formulas is measured after 24 hours of waiting. The pots containing the samples are characterized in texturometry using a texturometer such as that marketed by Rhéo TA-XT2, according to the following protocol: a ball-type stainless steel probe of diameter 5 mm is brought into contact with the sample at a speed of 1 mm / s. The measurement system detects the interface with the sample with a detection threshold equal to 0.005 newtons. The probe sinks 0.3 mm into the sample at a rate of 0.1 mm / s. The meter records the evolution of the force measured in compression over time, during the penetration phase. The hardness of the sample corresponds to the average of the maximum values of the force detected during the penetration, on at least 3 measurements.

Aqueous phase The compositions according to the invention intended for cosmetic use may comprise at least one aqueous phase. They are in particular formulated in aqueous lotions or in water-in-oil, oil-in-water or multiple emulsion emulsions (triple oil-in-water-in-oil or water-in-oil-in-water emulsion). such emulsions are known and described for example by C. FOX in "Cosmetics and Toiletries" - november 1986 - Vol 101 - pages 101-122).

The aqueous phase of said compositions contains water and in general other solvents soluble or miscible in water. Solvents that are soluble or miscible in water include short-chain monohydric alcohols, for example C ₁ -C ₄ such as ethanol, isopropanol; diols or polyols such as ethylene glycol, 1,2-propylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, diethylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, 2-ethoxyethanol, diethylene glycol monomethyl ether, triethylene glycol monomethyl ether and sorbitol. More particularly, propylene glycol and glycerol, propane 1,3 diol will be used.

The composition according to the invention preferably has a pH of between 3 and 9, depending on the support chosen.

Emulsifiers a) Oil-in-water emulsifiers As emulsifiers that can be used in oil-in-water emulsions or oil-in-water-in-oil triple emulsions, mention may be made, for example, of nonionic emulsifiers such as esters of oxyalkylenated fatty acids and glycerol (more particularly polyoxyethylenated); oxyalkylenated fatty acid and sorbitan esters; oxyalkylenated fatty acid esters (oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated); oxyalkylenated fatty alcohol ethers (oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated); sugar esters such as sucrose stearate; and mixtures thereof such as the mixture of glyceryl stearate and PEG-40 stearate.

Mention may also be made of the fatty alcohol / alkylpolyglycoside emulsifying mixtures as described in applications WO92 / 06778, WO95 / 13863 and WO98 / 47610, such as the commercial products sold by the company SEPPIC under the name MONTANOV®. (b) Water-in-oil emulsifiers

Among the emulsifiers that can be used in water-in-oil emulsions or triple emulsions (O / W / H or W / O / W), there may be mentioned by way of example alkyl dimethicone copolyols corresponding to formula (I) next CH,

I

CH ₃ - _S i If -Si - O- ^■ Si - (i)

I

CH.,

CH,

Ri R

in which :

R 1 denotes a linear or branched C 12 -C 20 alkyl group and preferably

R2 denotes the grouping: ~ CnH ₂ n ~ (-OC2H ₄ -) x ~ (-OC3H6-) y ~ O-R3,

R3 denotes a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched alkyl radical having from 1 to 12 carbon atoms;

a is an integer from 1 to about 500;

b is an integer from 1 to about 500;

n is an integer from 2 to 12 and preferably 2 to 5;

x denotes an integer ranging from 1 to about 50 and preferably from 1 to 30; y denotes an integer ranging from 0 to about 49 and preferably 0 to 29 provided that when y is different from zero the ratio x / y is greater than 1 and preferably varies from 2 to 1 1.

Among the preferred alkyldimethicone copolyol emulsifiers of formula (I), there will be mentioned more particularly CETYL PEG / PPG-10/1 DIMETHICONE and more particularly the mixture CETYL PEG / PPG-10/1 DIMETICONE AND DIMETHICONE (INCI name) as the product sold under the trade name ABIL EM90 by GOLDSCHMIDT or the mixture (POLYGLYCERYL-4- STEARATE and CETYL PEG / PPG-10 (AND) DIMETHICONE (AND) HEXYL LAURATE) as the product sold under the trade name ABIL WE09 by the same society.

Among the water-in-oil emulsifiers, mention may also be made of dimethicone copolyols corresponding to the following formula (II) CH ₃ - _S i -Si -O Si - C + Si (ii)

CH. R.

in which

R ₄ denotes the grouping: ~ C _m H ₂ m ~ (-OC2H ₄ -) _s ~ (-OC3H6-) t ~ O-R ₅ ,

R ₅ denotes a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched alkyl radical having from 1 to 12 carbon atoms;

it is an integer ranging from 1 to about 500

d denotes an integer ranging from 1 to about 500,

m is an integer ranging from 2 to 12 and preferably 2 to 5,

s denotes an integer ranging from 1 to about 50, and preferably from 1 to 30; t denotes an integer ranging from 0 to about 50 and preferably from 0 to 30; provided that the sum s + t is greater than or equal to 1.

Among these preferred emulsifiers dimethicone copolyols of formula (II), PEG-18 / PPG-18 DIMETHICONE and more particularly the mixture CYCLOPENTASILOXANE (and) PEG-18 / PPG-18 DIMETHICONE (INCI name) such as the product sold by Dow Corning under the trade name Silicone DC 5225 C or KF-6040 from Shin Etsu. According to a particularly preferred form, use will be made of a mixture of at least one emulsifier of formula (I) and at least one emulsifier of formula (II).

A mixture of PEG-18 / PPG-18 Dimethicone and Cetyl PEG / PPG-10/1 DIMETHICONE and even more particularly a mixture of (CYCLOPENTASILOXANE (and) PEG-18 / PPG-18 Dimethicone) and Cetyl PEG will be used more particularly. / PPG-10/1 DIMETICONE and Dimethicone or (Polyglyceryl-4-stearate and Cetyl PEG / PPG-10 (and) Dimethicone (and) Hexyl Laurate). Among the water-in-oil emulsifiers, mention may also be made of nonionic emulsifiers derived from fatty acid and polyol, alkylpolyglycosides (APG), sugar esters and mixtures thereof. As nonionic emulsifiers derived from fatty acid and polyol, it is possible in particular to use the fatty acid and polyol esters, the fatty acid having in particular a C 8 -C 24 alkyl chain, and the polyols being, for example, glycerol and sorbitan. Examples of fatty acid and polyol esters that may be mentioned include esters of isostearic acid and of polyols, esters of stearic acid and of polyols, and mixtures thereof, in particular esters of isostearic acid and of glycerol, and / or sorbitan. As esters of stearic acid and of polyols, mention may in particular be made of polyethylene glycol esters such as PEG-30 dipolyhydroxystearate, such as the product sold under the name Arlacel P135 by the company ICI.

Examples of glycerol and / or sorbitan esters that may be mentioned are polyglycerol isostearate, such as the product sold under the name Isolan Gl 34 by the company Goldschmidt; sorbitan isostearate, such as the product sold under the name Arlacel 987 by the company ICI; sorbitan isostearate and glycerol, such as the product sold under the name Arlacel 986 by the company ICI, the mixture of sorbitan isostearate and polyglycerol isostearate (3 moles) sold under the name Arlacel 1690 by the Unigema company. and their mixtures.

The emulsifier may also be chosen from alkylpolyglycosides having an HLB of less than 7, for example those represented by the following general formula (1):

RO- (G) x (1) in which R represents a branched and / or unsaturated alkyl radical containing from 14 to 24 carbon atoms, G represents a reduced sugar containing from 5 to 6 carbon atoms, and x denotes a value ranging from 1 to 10 and preferably from 1 to 4, and G particularly denotes glucose, fructose or galactose.

The unsaturated alkyl radical may comprise one or more ethylenic unsaturations, and in particular one or two ethylenic unsaturations.

As alkylpolyglycosides of this type, mention may be made of alkylpolyglucosides (G = glucose in formula (I)), and in particular the compounds of formula (I) in which R represents more particularly an oleyl radical (unsaturated C18 radical) or isostearyl radical ( saturated C18 radical), G denotes glucose, x is a value ranging from 1 to 2, especially isostearyl glucoside, oleyl glucoside and mixtures thereof. This alkylpolyglucoside may be used in admixture with a co-emulsifier, more particularly with a fatty alcohol and in particular a fatty alcohol having the same fatty chain as that of the alkylpolyglucoside, that is to say comprising from 14 to 24 carbon atoms. carbon and having a branched and / or unsaturated chain, and for example isostearyl alcohol when the alkylpolyglucoside is isostearylglucoside, and oleyl alcohol when the alkylpolyglucoside is oleylglucoside, optionally in the form of a self-emulsifying composition, as described for example in WO-A-92/06778. For example, the mixture of isostearyl glucoside and isostearyl alcohol sold under the name Montanov WO 18 by the company SEPPIC and the mixture octyldodecanol and octyldodecylxyloside sold under the name FLUDANOV 20X by the company SEPPIC may be used.

Mention may also be made of succinic-terminated polyolefins, such as ester-terminated polyisobutylenes and their salts, especially diethanolamine salts, such as the products sold under the names Lubrizol 2724, Lubrizol 2722 and Lubrizol 5603 by the company Lubrizol or the product CHEMCINNATE 2000.

The total amount of emulsifiers in the composition will preferably be in the composition according to the invention at contents of active material ranging from 1 to 8% by weight. weight and more particularly from 2 to 6% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

Fatty phase

The non-rinsed compositions according to the invention may contain at least one immiscible organic liquid phase in water called the fatty phase. This generally comprises one or more hydrophobic compounds which render said phase immiscible in water. Said phase is liquid (in the absence of structuring agent) at ambient temperature (20-25 ° C.). Preferably, the organic liquid immiscible organic phase in accordance with the invention is generally constituted generally comprises at least one volatile oil and / or a non-volatile oil and optionally at least one structuring agent. By "oil" is meant a fatty substance that is liquid at ambient temperature (25 ° C.) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg, ie 105 Pa). The oil can be volatile or non-volatile.

For the purposes of the invention, the term "volatile oil" means an oil capable of evaporating on contact with the skin or keratin fiber in less than one hour at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure. The volatile oils of the invention are volatile cosmetic oils which are liquid at ambient temperature and have a non-zero vapor pressure at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure, in particular from 0.13 Pa to 40,000 Pa (10 ^-3 to 300 mmHg), in particular ranging from 1.3 Pa to 13 000 Pa (0.01 to 100 mmHg), and more particularly ranging from 1.3 Pa to 1300 Pa (0.01 to 10 mmHg). ).

By "non-volatile oil" is meant an oil remaining on the skin or keratin fiber at room temperature and atmospheric pressure for at least several hours and having in particular a vapor pressure of less than 10 ^-3 mmHg (0.13 Pa). . The oil may be chosen from all physiologically acceptable and in particular physiologically acceptable oils, in particular mineral, animal, vegetable and synthetic oils; in particular volatile and / or nonvolatile hydrocarbon and / or silicone and / or fluorinated oils and mixtures thereof.

More precisely, the term "hydrocarbon-based oil" means an oil comprising mainly carbon and hydrogen atoms and optionally one or more functional groups chosen from hydroxyl, ester, ether and carboxylic functions. Generally, the oil has a viscosity of 0.5 to 100,000 mPa.s, preferably 50 to 50,000 mPa.s and more preferably 100 to 30,000 mPa.s.

By way of example of volatile oil that may be used in the invention, mention may be made of:

volatile hydrocarbon oils chosen from hydrocarbon-based oils containing from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, and in particular Cs-C16 isoalkanes of petroleum origin (also known as isoparaffins), such as isododecane (also called 2,2,4,4, 6-pentamethylheptane), isodecane, isohexadecane, and for example the oils sold under the trade names Isopars or permetyls, branched C 6 -C 16 esters, isohexyl neopentanoate, and mixtures thereof. Other volatile hydrocarbon oils such as petroleum distillates, especially those sold under the name Shell or by Shell, may also be used; volatile linear alkanes such as those described in the patent application of Cognis DE10 2008 012 457.

volatile silicones, for example volatile linear or cyclic silicone oils, in particular those having a viscosity of <8 centistokes (8 × 10 ^-6 m ² / s), and having in particular from 2 to 7 silicon atoms, these silicones possibly comprising Alkyl or alkoxy groups having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms As volatile silicone oil that may be used in the invention, mention may be made especially of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, heptamethylhexyltrisiloxane and heptamethyloctyl. trisiloxane, hexamethyl disiloxane, octamethyl trisiloxane, decamethyl tetrasiloxane, dodecamethylpentasiloxane

and their mixtures. It is also possible to mention volatile alkyltrisiloxane linear oils of general formula (I):

where R represents an alkyl group comprising from 2 to 4 carbon atoms and one or more hydrogen atoms of which may be substituted by a fluorine or chlorine atom.

Among the oils of general formula (I), mention may be made of:

3-butyl 1,1,1,5,5,5-heptamethyltrisiloxane,

3-propyl-1,1,1,5,5,5-heptamethyltrisiloxane, and

3-ethyl-1,1,1,5,5,5-heptamethyltrisiloxane,

corresponding to the oils of formula (I) for which R is respectively a butyl group, a propyl group or an ethyl group.

As an example of a non-volatile oil that may be used in the invention, mention may be made of:

hydrocarbon oils of animal origin such as perhydrosqualene; vegetable hydrocarbon oils such as liquid triglycerides of fatty acids of 4 to 24 carbon atoms such as triglycerides of heptanoic or octanoic acids or oils oils of wheat germ, olive oil, sweet almond oil , palm, colza, cotton, alfalfa, poppy, pumpkin, squash, black currant, evening primrose, millet, barley, quinoa, rye, safflower, bancoulier, passionflower , musk rose, sunflower, maize, soya, squash, grape seed, sesame, hazelnut, apricot, macadamia, castor, avocado, caprylic / capric acid triglycerides as those sold by Stearineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol 810, 812 and 818 by Dynamit Nobel, jojoba oil, shea butter; linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin such as liquid paraffins and derivatives thereof, petroleum jelly, polydecenes, polybutenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as Parleam, squalane;

synthetic ethers having from 10 to 40 carbon atoms;

synthetic esters, in particular of fatty acids, such as the oils of formula R 1 COOR 2 in which R 1 represents the residue of a linear or branched higher fatty acid containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms and R ₂ represents a hydrocarbon chain, in particular branched, containing 1 to 40 carbon atoms with R 1 + R 2> 10 such as, for example, purcellin oil (cetostearyl octanoate), isononyl isononanoate, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, alcohol benzoate C12 to C15, hexyl laurate, diisopropyl adipate, isononyl isononanoate, ethyl 2-hexyl palmitate, octyl 2-dodecyl stearate, octyl erucate 2- dodecyl, isostearyl isostearate, tridecyl trimellitate; octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates of alcohols or polyalcohols such as propylene glycol dioctanoate; hydroxylated esters such as isostearyl lactate, octyl hydroxy stearate, octyl dodecyl hydroxystearate, diisostearyl malate, triisocetyl citrate, heptanoates, octanoates, decanoates of fatty alcohols; polyol esters such as propylene glycol dioctanoate, neopentyl glycol diheptanoate, diethylene glycol diisononanoate; and pentaerythritol esters such as pentaerythritol tetraisostearate;

branched-chain and / or unsaturated carbon-chain liquid fatty alcohols having from 12 to 26 carbon atoms, such as octyl dodecanol, isostearyl alcohol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyl decanol and 2-undecyl; pentadecanol, oleic alcohol;

higher fatty acids such as oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid;

- carbonates;

- acetates;

- citrates;

fluorinated oils that may be partially hydrocarbon-based and / or silicone-based, such as fluorosilicone oils, fluorinated polyethers or fluorinated silicones, as described in document EP-A-847752; silicone oils, such as non-volatile, linear or cyclic polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS); polydimethylsiloxanes comprising alkyl, alkoxy or phenyl groups, during or at the end of the silicone chain, groups having from 2 to 24 carbon atoms; phenyl silicones such as phenyl trimethicones, phenyl dimethicones, phenyl trimethylsiloxy diphenyl siloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, diphenyl methyldiphenyl trisiloxanes, 2-phenylethyl trimethylsiloxysilicates, and

their mixtures. Structuring agent

The non-rinsed compositions according to the invention comprising a fatty phase may additionally contain at least one structuring agent of said fatty phase, which may preferably be chosen from waxes, pasty compounds, mineral or organic lipophilic gelling agents and mixtures thereof.

It is understood that the amount of these compounds can be adjusted by those skilled in the art so as not to damage the desired effect in the context of the present invention.

Wax (es)

The wax is generally a lipophilic compound, solid at room temperature (25 ° C.), with a reversible solid / liquid state change, having a melting point greater than or equal to 30 ° C. and up to 200 ° C and especially up to 120 ° C.

In particular, the waxes that are suitable for the invention may have a melting point greater than or equal to 45 ° C., and in particular greater than or equal to 55 ° C.

For the purposes of the invention, the melting temperature corresponds to the temperature of the most endothermic peak observed in thermal analysis (DSC) as described in the ISO 1 1357-3 standard; 1999. The melting point of wax can be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example the calorimeter sold under the name "MDSC 2920" by the company TA Instruments.

The measurement protocol is as follows:

A sample of 5 mg of wax placed in a crucible is subjected to a first temperature rise from -20 ° C. to 100 ° C., at the heating rate of 10 ° C./min, and is then cooled from 100 ° C. to -20 ° C at a cooling rate of 10 ° C / minute and finally subjected to a second temperature rise from -20 ° C to 100 ° C at a heating rate of 5 ° C / minute. During the second temperature rise, the variation of the power difference absorbed by the empty crucible and the crucible containing the wax sample as a function of temperature is measured. The melting point of the compound is the value of the temperature corresponding to the peak apex of the curve representing the variation of the difference in power absorbed as a function of the temperature.

The waxes that may be used in the compositions according to the invention are chosen from solid waxes at room temperature of animal, vegetable, mineral or synthetic origin, and mixtures thereof.

Illustrative waxes suitable for the invention include hydrocarbon waxes such as beeswax, lanolin wax, and Chinese insect wax, rice bran wax, Carnauba wax Candellila wax, Ouricury wax, Alfa wax, berry wax, shellac wax, Japanese wax and sumac wax; montan wax, orange and lemon waxes, refined sunflower wax marketed under the name SUNFLOWER WAX by KOSTER KEUNEN, microcrystalline waxes, paraffins and ozokerite; polyethylene waxes, waxes obtained by Fisher-Tropsch synthesis and waxy copolymers and their esters.

Mention may also be made of waxes obtained by catalytic hydrogenation of animal or vegetable oils having linear or branched C 8 -C 32 fatty chains. Among these, mention may be made especially of isomericized jojoba oil such as oil. trans-isomerized partially hydrogenated jojoba manufactured or marketed by Desert Whale under the trade name lso-Jojoba-50®, hydrogenated sunflower oil, hydrogenated castor oil, hydrogenated coconut oil, coconut oil hydrogenated lanolin, and the di- (trimethylol-1, 1, 1 propane) tetrastearate sold under the name Hest 2T-4S® by the company HETERENE.

Mention may also be made of silicone waxes (C ₃ -C ₄ ALKYL DIMETHICONE) and fluorinated waxes. It is also possible to use the waxes obtained by hydrogenation of castor oil esterified with cetyl alcohol sold under the names Phytowax Ricin 16L64® and 22L73® by the company SOPHIM. Such waxes are described in the application FR-A-2792190. As wax, a C ₂ -C ₄ (alkyl group comprising 20 to 40 carbon atoms) can be used as a wax (hydroxystearyloxy) stearate, alone or in mixture.

Such a wax is especially sold under the names "Kester Wax K 82 P®", "Hydroxypolyester K 82 P®" and "Kester Wax K 80 P®" by the company Koster Keunen.

As micro-waxes that can be used in the compositions according to the invention, mention may be made in particular of carnauba micro-waxes such as that marketed under the name MicroCare 350® by the company MICRO POWDERS, and synthetic wax micro-waxes such as marketed under the name MicroEase 1 14S® by the company MICRO POWDERS, micro waxes consisting of a mixture of carnauba wax and polyethylene wax such as those marketed under the names Micro Care 300® and 310® by the company MICRO POWDERS, micro waxes consisting of a mixture of carnauba wax and synthetic wax such as that sold under the name Micro Care 325® by MICRO POWDERS, polyethylene micro-waxes such as those sold under the names Micropoly. 200®, 220®, 220L® and 250S® by the company MICRO POWDERS, the commercial products PERFOMALEN 400 POLYETHYLENE and PERFORMALENE 500-L POLYETHYLENE from NEW PHASE TECHNOLOGIES, the PERFORMALENE 655 POLYETHYLENE or the paraffin waxes such as the wax INCI, MICROCRYSTALLINE WAX and SYNTHETIC WAX and sold under the trade name MICROLEASE by SOCHIBO. ; polytetrafluoroethylene micro waxes such as those sold under the names Microslip 519® and 519 L® by the company Micro Powders. The composition according to the invention will preferably comprise a wax content (s) ranging from 3% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, in particular from 5% to 15%, more particularly from 6% to 15%.

According to one particular form of the invention, in the context of the anhydrous solid compositions in the form of a stick, use will be made of polyethylene micro-waxes in the form of shape-factor crystallites of at least 2 having a melting point of 70.degree. at 1 10 ° C and preferably 70 to 100 ° C, to reduce or eliminate the presence of layers in the solid composition, These needle crystallites and in particular their dimensions can be characterized visually according to the following method.

The wax is deposited on a microscope slide, which is placed on a hot plate. The blade and the wax are heated to a temperature generally at least 5 ° C higher than that of the melting point of the wax or wax mixture considered (e). At the end of the melting, the liquid thus obtained and the microscope slide are allowed to cool to solidify. The observation of the crystallites is carried out using a Leica DMLB100 type optical microscope, with a target selected according to the size of the objects to be viewed, and in polarized light. The dimensions of the crystallites are measured using an image analysis software such as those marketed by Microvision. The crystallite polyethylene waxes according to the invention preferably have an average length ranging from 5 to 10 μιτι. By "average length" is meant the dimension given by the statistical size distribution at half of the population, called D50.

More particularly, a mixture of PERFOMALEN 400 POLYETHYLENE and PERFORMALENE 500-L POLYETHYLENE waxes from NEW PHASE TECHNOLOGIES will be used.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "pasty compound" is intended to mean a lipophilic fat compound with a reversible solid / liquid state change, having in the solid state an anisotropic crystalline organization and comprising at a temperature of 23 ° C. a fraction liquid and a solid fraction.

The pasty compound is preferably chosen from synthetic compounds and compounds of plant origin. A pasty compound can be obtained synthetically from starting materials of plant origin.

The pasty compound may advantageously be chosen from:

- lanolin and its derivatives,

polymeric or non-polymeric silicone compounds,

polymeric or non-polymeric fluorinated compounds,

vinyl polymers, in particular:

homopolymers of olefins,

copolymers of olefins,

homopolymers and copolymers of hydrogenated dienes,

linear or branched oligomers, homo or copolymers of alkyl (meth) acrylates preferably having a C 8 -C 30 alkyl group,

homo and copolymeric oligomers of vinyl esters having C 8 -C 30 alkyl groups, and Homo and copolymer oligomers of vinyl ethers having alkyl groups

the liposoluble polyethers resulting from the polyetherification between one or more C2-C100, preferably C2-C50, diols,

the esters,

- their mixtures.

Among the esters, it is particularly preferred:

esters of an oligomeric glycerol, in particular the diglycerol esters, in particular the adipic acid and glycerol condensates, for which part of the hydroxyl groups of the glycerols have reacted with a mixture of fatty acids such as the acid stearic acid, capric acid, stearic acid and isostearic acid and 12-hydroxystearic acid, especially like those marketed under the trademark Softisan 649 by the company Sasol,

arachidyl propionate sold under the name Waxenol 801 by Alzo,

the phytosterol esters,

triglycerides of fatty acids and their derivatives,

pentaerythritol esters,

non-crosslinked polyesters resulting from the polycondensation between a linear or branched C 4 -C 50 dicarboxylic acid or polycarboxylic acid and a C2-C50 diol or polyol,

aliphatic ester esters resulting from the esterification of an aliphatic hydroxycarboxylic acid ester with an aliphatic carboxylic acid,

polyesters resulting from the esterification, by a polycarboxylic acid, of an aliphatic hydroxycarboxylic acid ester, said ester comprising at least two hydroxyl groups such as the Risocast DA-H ® and Risocast DA-L ® products,

the esters of diol dimer and diacid dimer, if appropriate, esterified on their (their) function (s) alcohol (s) or acid (s) free (s) by acidic radicals or alcohols such as Plandool-G,

- their mixtures. Among the pasty compounds of plant origin, a mixture of soy sterols and oxyethylenated (5OE) oxypropylene pentaerythritol (5 PO), marketed under the reference Lanolide by the company VEVY, will preferably be chosen. Lipophilic gelling agents

Mineral gelling agents

As inorganic lipophilic gelling agents, there may be mentioned optionally modified clays, such as hectorites modified with a C10 to C22 ammonium chloride, such as hectorite modified with di-stearyl-dimethyl ammonium chloride such as, for example, sold under the name Bentone 38V® by the company ELEMENTIS. It is also possible to mention fumed silica optionally treated with hydrophobic surface, the particle size of which is less than 1 μιτι. It is indeed possible to chemically modify the surface of the silica, by chemical reaction generating a decrease in the number of silanol groups present on the surface of the silica. In particular, it is possible to substitute silanol groups with hydrophobic groups: a hydrophobic silica is then obtained. The hydrophobic groups may be trimethylsiloxyl groups, which are especially obtained by treatment of fumed silica in the presence of hexamethyldisilazane. Silicas thus treated are called "Silica silylate" according to the CTFA (8th edition, 2000). They are for example sold under the references Aerosil R812® by the company Degussa, Cab-O-Sil TS-530® by the company Cabot, dimethylsilyloxyl or polydimethylsiloxane groups, which are especially obtained by treatment of fumed silica in the presence of polydimethylsiloxane or dimethyldichlorosilane. Silicas thus treated are called "Silica dimethyl silylate" according to the CTFA (8th edition, 2000). They are for example marketed under the references Aerosil R972®, and Aerosil R974® by the company DEGUSSA, CAB-O-SIL TS-610® and CAB-O-SIL TS-720® by CABOT. The hydrophobic fumed silica has in particular a particle size that can be nanometric to micrometric, for example ranging from about 5 to 200 nm. Organic gelling agents

Polymeric organic lipophilic gelling agents are, for example, partially or fully crosslinked elastomeric organopolysiloxanes of three-dimensional structure, such as those marketed under the names KSG6®, KSG16® and KSG18® by the company SHIN-ETSU, by Trefil E-505C® and Trefil E-506C® by DOW-CORNING, Gransil SR-CYC®, SR DMF10®, SR-DC556®, SR 5CYC gel®, SR DMF 10 gel® and SR DC 556 gel® by GRANT INDUSTRIES , SF 1204® and JK 1 13® by the company GENERAL ELECTRIC; ethylcellulose such as that sold under the name Ethocel® by Dow Chemical; galactomannans having from one to six, and in particular from two to four, hydroxyl groups per sac, substituted by a saturated or unsaturated alkyl chain, such as guar gum alkylated by C1-C6 alkyl chains, and in particular C1 groups; C3 and mixtures thereof. Block copolymers of the "diblock", "triblock" or "radial" type of the polystyrene / polyisoprene, polystyrene / polybutadiene type, such as those sold under the name Luvitol HSB® by the company BASF, of the polystyrene / copoly (ethylene-propylene) type such as those sold under the name Kraton® by Shell Chemical Co., or else from the polystyrene / copoly (ethylene-butylene) type, mixtures of triblock and radial (star) copolymers in isododecane, such as those marketed by the company PENRECO company under the name Versagel® such as, for example, the mixture of butylene / ethylene / styrene triblock copolymer and ethylene / propylene / styrene star copolymer in isododecane (Versagel M 5960). Lipophilic gelling agents that may also be mentioned include polymers having a weight average molecular weight of less than 100,000, comprising a) a polymer backbone having hydrocarbon-based repeating units provided with at least one heteroatom, and optionally b) at least one fatty chain. pendant and / or at least one chain optionally functionalized fatty acid, having from 6 to 120 carbon atoms and being bonded to these hydrocarbon-based units, as described in applications WO-A-02/056847, WO-A-02/47619, the content of which is incorporated as a reference; in particular polyamide resins (especially comprising alkyl groups having from 12 to 22 carbon atoms) such as those described in US-A-5783657 whose contents are incorporated by reference.

Among the lipophilic gelling agents that can be used in the compositions according to the invention, mention may also be made of dextrin and fatty acid esters, such as dextrin palmitates, in particular such as those sold under the names Rheopearl TL® or Rheopearl KL. ® by the company CHIBA FLOUR. It is also possible to use polyorganosiloxane-type silicone polyamides such as those described in US-A-5,874,069, US-A-5,919,441, US-A-6,051,216 and US-A-5,981,680.

These silicone polymers can belong to the following two families:

polyorganosiloxanes comprising at least two groups capable of establishing hydrogen interactions, these two groups being located in the polymer chain, and / or

polyorganosiloxanes comprising at least two groups capable of establishing hydrogen interactions, these two groups being located on grafts or branches.

Salts or antiperspirant complexes

According to one particular form of the invention, the compositions of the invention may contain at least one salt or antiperspirant complex.

By "sweat-treating agent" is meant any substance which, by itself, has the effect of diminishing the sensation on the skin of moisture associated with human sweat, of masking human sweat. The antiperspirant salts or complexes in accordance with the invention are generally chosen from aluminum or zirconium salts or complexes. They are preferably chosen from aluminum halohydrates; aluminum and zirconium halohydrates, complexes of zirconium hydroxychloride and of aluminum hydroxychloride with or without an amino acid such as those described in patent US-3792068.

Among the aluminum salts, mention may in particular be made of aluminum chlorohydrate in activated or non-activated form, aluminum chlorohydrex, chlorohydrex polyethylene glycol aluminum complex, aluminum chlorohydrexpropyleneglycol complex, aluminum dichlorohydrate, aluminum dichlorohydrex complex polyethylene glycol, aluminum complex dichlorohydrex propylene glycol, sesquichlorohydrate aluminum, sesquichlorohydrex aluminum polyethylene glycol complex, sesquichlorohydrex propylene glycol aluminum complex, aluminum sulphate buffered with sodium aluminum lactate.

Among the aluminum and zirconium salts, there may be mentioned in particular aluminum zirconium octachlorohydrate, aluminum zirconium pentachlorohydrate, aluminum zirconium tetrachlorohydrate, aluminum zirconium trichlorohydrate.

The complexes of zirconium hydroxychloride and aluminum hydroxychloride with an amino acid are generally known under the name ZAG (when the amino acid is glycine). Among these products, mention may be made of aluminum complexes of zirconium octachlorohydrex glycine, aluminum zirconium pentachlorohydrex glycine, aluminum zirconium tetrachlorohydrex glycine and aluminum zirconium trichlorohydrex glycine.

The antiperspirant salts or complexes may be present in the composition according to the invention in a proportion of approximately 0.5 to 25% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

Deodorant active ingredients The compositions according to the invention may also contain one or more additional deodorant active agents.

Deodorant active means any substance capable of masking, absorbing, improving and / or reducing the unpleasant odor resulting from the decomposition of human sweat by bacteria

The deodorant active agents may be bacteriostatic agents or bactericidal agents acting on the germs of axillary odors, such as 2,4,4'-trichloro-2'-hydroxydiphenyl ether ( ^® Triclosan), 2,4-dichloro-2'- hydroxydiphenyl ether, 3 ', 4', 5'-trichlorosalicylanilide, 1 - (3 ', 4'-dichlorophenyl) -3- (4'-chlorophenyl) urea ( ^® Triclocarban) or 3,7,1 1 -trimethyldodeca -2, 5,10-trienol (Farnesol ^®); quaternary ammonium salts such as cetyltrimethylammonium salts, cetylpyridinium salts, DPTA (1,3-diaminopropanetetraacetic acid), 1,2-decanediol (SYMCLARIOL from Symrise), glycerin derivatives, for example Caprylic acid; / Capric Glycerides (CAPMUL MCM from Abitec), Caprylate or Glycerol caprate (DERMOSOFT GMCY and DERMOSOFT GMC respectively from STRAETMANS), Polyglyceryl-2 Caprate (DERMOSOFT DG ™ from STRAETMANS) Biguanide derivatives such as polyhexamethylene biguanide salts, chlorhexidine and its salts; 4-Phenyl-4,4-dimethyl-2-butanol (SYMDEO MPP from Symrise).

Among the deodorant active agents according to the invention, mention may also be made of

zinc salts such as zinc salicylate, zinc gluconate, zinc pidolate; zinc sulphate, zinc chloride, zinc lactate, zinc phenolsulfonate; zinc ricinoleate

- sodium bicarbonate;

salicylic acid and its derivatives such as n-octanoyl-5-salicylic acid

- Silver zeolites or without silver

- Moon. The deodorant active agents may preferably be present in the compositions according to the invention in weight concentrations ranging from 0.01 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Suspending agents

In order to improve the homogeneity of the product, it is also possible to use one or more suspending agents which are preferably chosen from hydrophobic modified montmorillonite clays, such as hydrophobic modified bentonites or hectorites. Mention may be made, for example, of the product Stearalkonium Bentonite (CTFA name) (reaction product of bentonite and quaternary ammonium chloride stearalkonium chloride), such as the commercial product sold under the name Tixogel MP 250 by the company Sud Chemie Rheologicals, United Catalysts Inc. or the product Disteardimonium Hectorite (CTFA name) (reaction product of hectorite and distearyldimium chloride) sold under the name Bentone 38 or Bentone Gel by Elementis Specialties.

The suspending agents are preferably present in amounts ranging from 0.1 to 5% by weight and more preferably from 0.2 to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

Organic powder

According to one particular form of the invention, the compositions according to the invention will contain, in addition, an organic powder.

As used herein, the term "organic powder" means any solid that is insoluble in the medium at room temperature (25 ° C.). Organic powders that may be used in the composition of the invention include, for example, polyamide particles and especially those sold under the names ORGASOL by Atochem; polyethylene powders; microspheres based on acrylic copolymers, such as as those in ethylene glycol dimethacrylate / lauryl methacrylate copolymer sold by Dow Corning under the name Polytrap; polymethyl methacrylate microspheres, sold under the name MICROSPHERE M-100 by the company Matsumoto or under the name COVABEAD LH85 by the company Wackherr; hollow polymethyl methacrylate microspheres (granulometry: 6.5 - 10.5 μ) sold under the name Ganzpearl GMP 0800 by Ganz Chemical; methyl methacrylate / ethylene glycol dimethacrylate copolymer microbeads (size: 6.5-10.5 μ) sold under the name Ganzpearl GMP 0820 by Ganz Chemical or Microsponge 5640 by the company Amcol Health & Beauty Solutions; ethylene-acrylate copolymer powders, such as those sold under the name FLOBEADS by Sumitomo Seika Chemicals; expanded powders such as hollow microspheres and in particular microspheres formed of a terpolymer of vinylidene chloride, acrylonitrile and methacrylate and sold under the name EXPANCEL by the company Kemanord Plast under the references 551 DE 12 (particle size distribution). about 12 m and density 40 kg / m 3), 551 DE 20 (particle size of about 30 μιτι and density 65 kg / m 3), 551 DE 50 (particle size of about 40 μιτι), or the microspheres marketed under the name MICROPEARL F 80 ED by the company Matsumoto; powders of natural organic materials such as starch powders, especially corn starch, wheat or rice, crosslinked or otherwise, such as starch powders crosslinked with octenylsuccinate anhydride, sold under the name DRY -FLO by the company National Starch; silicone resin microbeads such as those sold under the name Tospearl by the company Toshiba Silicone, in particular Tospearl 240; amino acid powders such as the Lauroyllysine powder marketed under the name Amihope LL-1 1 by the company Ajinomoto; the particles of microdispersion of wax, which preferably have average dimensions of less than 1 μιτι and especially ranging from 0.02 μιτι to 1 μιτι, and which consist essentially of a wax or a mixture of waxes, such as the products marketed under the name Aquacer by Byk Cera, and in particular: Aquacer 520 (mixture of synthetic and natural waxes), Aquacer 514 or 513 (polyethylene wax), Aquacer 51 1 (polymeric wax), or such as products sold under the name Jonwax 120 by Johnson Polymer (a mixture of polyethylene wax and paraffin wax) and under the name Ceraflour 961 by Byk Cera (micronized modified polyethylene wax); and their mixtures.

additives

The cosmetic compositions according to the invention may furthermore comprise cosmetic adjuvants chosen from softeners, antioxidants, opacifiers, stabilizers, moisturizing agents, vitamins, bactericides, preservatives, polymers, perfumes and thickeners. , propellants or any other ingredient usually used in cosmetics for this type of application. Of course, those skilled in the art will take care to choose this or these optional additional compounds in such a way that the advantageous properties intrinsically attached to the composition according to the invention are not, or not substantially, impaired by the addition or additions envisaged. The thickeners, preferably nonionic, may be selected from guar gums and modified or unmodified celluloses such as hydroxypropyl guar gum, cetylhydroxyethylcellulose, silicas such as Bentone Gel MIO sold by the company NL INDUSTRIES or the Veegum Ultra, sold by POLYPLASTIC.

The thickeners may also be cationic, for example POLYQUATERNIUM-37 sold under the name Salcare SC95 (Polyquaternium-37 (And) Mineral Oil (And) PPG-1 Trideceth-6) or Salcare SC96 (Polyquaternium-37 (And) Propylene Glycol Dicaprylate / Dicaprate (And) PPG-1 -Trideceth-6) or other crosslinked cationic polymer such as for example those of CTFA name Ethylacrylate / Dimethylamino Ethyl Methacrylate Cationic Emulsion Copolymer. The amounts of these various constituents that may be present in the composition according to the invention are those conventionally used in compositions for the treatment of perspiration. aerosols

The compositions according to the invention may be further pressurized and packaged in an aerosol device consisting of:

(A) a container comprising an antiperspirant composition as defined above,

(B) at least one propellant and a means for dispensing said aerosol composition.

Propellants generally used in this type of product and well known to those skilled in the art are, for example, dimethyl ether (DME); volatile hydrocarbons such as n-butane, propane, isobutane, and mixtures thereof, optionally with at least one chlorinated and / or fluorinated hydrocarbon; among these are the compounds sold by the company Dupont de Nemours under the names Freon® and Dymel®, and in particular monofluorotrichloromethane, difluorodichloromethane, tetrafluorodichloroethane and 1,1-difluoroethane sold especially under the trade name Dymel 152 A by the company DUPONT. It is also possible to use as propellant carbon dioxide, nitrous oxide, nitrogen or compressed air. The compositions containing the perlite particles as defined above and the propellant (s) may be in the same compartment or in different compartments in the aerosol container. According to the invention, the concentration of propellant generally varies from 5 to 95% by weight pressurized and more preferably from 50 to 85% by weight relative to the total weight of the pressurized composition.

The dispensing means, which forms part of the aerosol device, is generally constituted by a dispensing valve controlled by a dispensing head, it same comprising a nozzle by which the aerosol composition is vaporized. The container containing the pressurized composition may be opaque or transparent. It may be glass, polymeric material or metal, optionally covered with a layer of protective varnish.

The invention also relates to a cosmetic process for treating body odors, in particular axillary odors or foot odors, which consists in applying to the keratin materials a composition as described above (and of course containing the combination according to US Pat. 'invention).

This process is especially used to treat axillary odors caused by C. xerosis bacteria or foot smells caused by B. linens. Destroying or inhibiting odor-causing bacteria, especially axillary odors or feet, with a bacteriocin while using a prebiotic that confers a selective advantage on the beneficial germs of the skin, can reduce and / or to remove or prevent the development of body odor without destroying the ecosystem of the treated area.

According to a preferred embodiment of the cosmetic process for treating body odors, a composition according to the invention comprising a class II plantaricin, more particularly a class II plantaricin chosen from plantaricin A, plantaricin C19 and plantaricin, is applied. .

According to another preferred embodiment of the cosmetic process for treating body odors, a composition according to the invention comprising a prebiotic chosen from a xylooligosaccharide and an isomalto-oligosaccharide is applied.

According to a particularly preferred form, the cosmetic process for treating body odors according to the invention comprises the application of a composition comprising

a bacteriocin selected from plantaricin A, plantaricin C19 and plantaricin 149, and

a prebiotic chosen from a xylooligosaccharide and an isomalto-oligosaccharide. * Composition for the care and / or cleaning of the skin

The composition according to the invention contains a physiologically acceptable medium as defined above. According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the composition has a pH preferably close to that of the skin, between 4 and 7.

The compositions according to the invention may be in any of the galenical forms conventionally used for topical application and especially in the form of aqueous, hydroalcoholic, oil-in-water (O / W) or water-in-oil ( E / H) or multiple (triple: W / O / W or W / E / H), aqueous gels, or dispersions of a fatty phase in an aqueous phase using spherules, or lipid vesicles of ionic and / or nonionic type (liposomes, niosomes, oleosomes), or thin films. These compositions are prepared according to the usual methods.

In addition, the composition according to the invention may be more or less fluid and have the appearance of a white or colored cream, an ointment, a milk, a lotion, a serum, a paste, a foaming gel, a treatment, a tonic or a mousse. In a particularly preferred manner, the composition according to the invention is formulated in the form of a foaming gel. It can optionally be applied to the skin in the form of an aerosol. It can also be in solid form, and for example in the form of a stick. It may be a care composition, an exfoliating composition or cleaning or scrubbing, or a shaving composition such as a shaving foam.

When the composition used according to the invention comprises an oily phase, it preferably contains at least one oil. It may also contain other fatty substances.

As oils that can be used in the composition of the invention, mention may be made for example of:

hydrocarbon oils of animal origin, such as perhydrosqualene; hydrocarbon-based oils of vegetable origin, such as liquid triglycerides of fatty acids containing from 4 to 10 carbon atoms, for instance triglycerides of heptanoic or octanoic acids or, for example, sunflower, corn or soybean oils, squash, grape seed, sesame, hazelnut, apricot, macadamia, arara, sunflower, castor oil, avocado, triglycerides of caprylic / capric acids such as those sold by Stearineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol 810, 812 and 818 by the company Dynamit Nobel, jojoba oil, shea butter oil;

esters and synthetic ethers, in particular of fatty acids, such as the oils of formulas R'COOR ² and R'OR ² in which R 'represents the residue of a fatty acid comprising from 8 to 29 carbon atoms, and R ² represents a hydrocarbon chain, branched or unbranched, containing from 3 to 30 carbon atoms, for example Purcellin oil, isononyl isononanoate, isopropyl myristate or 2-ethyl palmitate; hexyl, octyl-2-dodecyl stearate, octyl-2-dodecyl erucate, isostearyl isostearate; hydroxylated esters such as isostearyl lactate, octyl hydroxystearate, octyldodecyl hydroxystearate, diisostearyl malate, triisocetyl citrate, heptanoates, octanoates, decanoates of fatty alcohols; polyol esters, such as propylene glycol dioctanoate, neopentyl glycol diheptanoate and diethylene glycol diisononanoate; and pentaerythritol esters such as pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate;

linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin, such as paraffin oils, volatile or not, and their derivatives, petroleum jelly, polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as parleam oil;

fatty alcohols having from 8 to 26 carbon atoms, such as cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and their mixture (cetylstearyl alcohol), octyldodecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol, oleic alcohol or linoleic alcohol;

partially fluorinated hydrocarbon oils and / or silicone oils such as those described in document JP-A-2-295912;

silicone oils such as volatile or non-volatile polymethylsiloxanes (PDMS) with a linear or cyclic silicone chain, which are liquid or pasty at room temperature, in particular cyclopolydimethylsiloxanes (cyclomethicones) such as cyclohexasiloxane; polydimethylsiloxanes containing alkyl groups, alkoxy or phenyl, during or at the end of the silicone chain, groups having from 2 to 24 carbon atoms; phenyl silicones such as phenyltrimethicones, phenyldimethicones, phenyltrimethylsiloxydiphenylsiloxanes, diphenyl-dimethicones, diphenylmethyldiphenyltrisiloxanes, 2-phenylethyltrimethylsiloxysilicates, and polymethylphenylsiloxanes;

- their mixtures.

By hydrocarbon oil is meant in the list of oils mentioned above, any oil predominantly comprising carbon and hydrogen atoms, and optionally ester, ether, fluoro, carboxylic acid and / or alcohol groups.

The other fatty substances that may be present in the oily phase are, for example, fatty acids containing from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, such as stearic acid, lauric acid, palmitic acid and oleic acid; waxes such as lanolin, beeswax, carnauba or candelilla wax, paraffin waxes, lignite waxes or microcrystalline waxes, ceresin or ozokerite, synthetic waxes such as polyethylene waxes, waxes Fischer-Tropsch; silicone resins such as trifluoromethyl-C1-4-alkyldimethicone and trifluoropropyldimethicone; and silicone elastomers such as the products sold under the names KSG by the company Shin-Etsu, under the names "Trefil", "BY29" or "EPSX" by Dow Corning or under the names "Gransil" by the company Grant industries.

These fatty substances may be chosen in a varied manner by those skilled in the art in order to prepare a composition having the desired properties, for example of consistency or texture. According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition according to the invention is a water-in-oil (W / O) or oil-in-water (O / W) emulsion. The proportion of the oily phase of the emulsion may range from 5 to 80% by weight, and preferably from 5 to 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

The emulsions generally contain at least one emulsifier chosen from amphoteric, anionic, cationic or nonionic emulsifiers, used alone. or in mixture, and optionally a co-emulsifier. The emulsifiers are suitably selected according to the emulsion to be obtained (W / O or O / W). The emulsifier and the co-emulsifier are generally present in the composition, in a proportion ranging from 0.3 to 30% by weight, and preferably from 0.5 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

For the W / O emulsions, examples of emulsifiers that may be mentioned include dimethicone copolyols such as the mixture of cyclomethicone and dimethicone copolyol, sold under the name "DC 5225 C" by Dow Corning, and alkyl dimethicone copolyols such as Laurylmethicone copolyol sold under the name Dow Corning 5200 Formulation Aid by Dow Corning and Cetyl dimethicone copolyol sold under the name Abil EM 90 ^R by Goldschmidt. It is also possible to use, as surfactant of W / O emulsions, a crosslinked solid elastomeric organopolysiloxane comprising at least one oxyalkylene group, such as those obtained according to the procedure of Examples 3, 4 and 8 of US Pat. No. 5,412,004 and examples US-A-5,81 1,487, in particular the product of Example 3 (synthetic example) of US-A-5,412,004, and such as that sold under the reference KSG 21 by Shin Etsu.

For O / W emulsions, mention may be made, for example, as emulsifiers, of nonionic emulsifiers such as oxyalkylenated (more particularly polyoxyethylenated) fatty acid esters of glycerol; oxyalkylenated fatty acid and sorbitan esters; oxyalkylenated fatty acid esters (oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated); oxyalkylenated fatty alcohol ethers (oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated); sugar esters such as sucrose stearate; and mixtures thereof such as the mixture of glyceryl stearate and PEG-40 stearate.

Advantageously, the composition for the care and / or cleaning of the skin according to the invention may comprise at least one additional skin care ingredient and / or active ingredient, in particular for the treatment of oily skin. It will be possible to combine the additional active ingredients and ingredients described in patent applications WO2004 / 105736 and DE10324567, incorporated herein by reference, among which depigmenting agents, preservatives, antimicrobial agents, antiperspirants, metal chelators, filters UV, hydrolysed proteins, antioxidants, vitamins, anti-inflammatory agents, anti-irritant agents, moisturizing agents, plant extracts, cosmetic adjuvants, and mixtures thereof.

As depigmenting agents, there may be mentioned in particular vitamin C and its derivatives and in particular the vit CG, CP and 3-0 ethyl vitamin C, alpha and beta arbutin, lucinol and its derivatives, kojic acid, resorcinol and its derivatives, tranexamic acid and its derivatives, gentisic acid, homogentisate, methyl gentisate or homogentisate, dioic acid, D calcium panthetine sulfonate, lipoic acid, ellagic acid, vitamin B3, tranexamic acid, lipoic acid, linoleic acid and its derivatives, ceramides and their homologs, plant derivatives such as chamomile, bearberry, the family of aloe (vera, ferox, bardensis) , of mulberry tree, skullcap, without this list being exhaustive.

Humidifying or moisturizing agents that may especially be mentioned include glycerol and its derivatives, urea and its derivatives, in particular Hydrovance marketed by National Starch, lactic acids, hyaluronic acid, AHAs, BHAs and sodium pidolate. , xylitol, serine, sodium lactate, ectoin and its derivatives, chitosan and its derivatives, collagen, plankton, imperata cylindra extract marketed under the name Moist 24 by Sederma.

It will also be possible to use additional ingredients and / or active agents for the care of oily skin, in particular with acne prone skin, and / or acne skin, and / or hyperseborrhoeic skin, such as mattifying agents, abrasive fillers or exfoliating agents, desquamating agents, antimicrobial agents, soothing agents, anti-inflammatory agents, sebum-regulating agents, antioxidants, cicatrizing agents, astringent agents, and mixtures thereof. More particularly, it will be chosen to incorporate into the composition according to the invention at least one additional skin care ingredient and / or active agent chosen from depigmenting agents, metal chelators, hydrolysed proteins, vitamins and plant extracts. , mattifying agents, abrasive fillers or exfoliating agents, desquamating agents, antimicrobial agents, soothing agents, anti-inflammatory agents, sebo-regulating agents, antioxidants, cicatrizing agents, astringent agents, and their agents. mixtures.

The composition may be a care composition and / or cleaning and / or makeup, intended to be rinsed or not rinsed. Preferably, it will be a non-rinsed skincare composition. When the composition comprises exfoliating agents or abrasive fillers, it will preferably be rinsed.

Ingredients and additional active ingredients for the care of oily skin

Matifying agents

By "matting agent" is meant agents intended to make the skin visibly duller, less glossy.

The matting effect of the agent and / or of the composition containing it can in particular be evaluated using a gonioreflectometer, by measuring the ratio R between the specular reflection and the diffuse reflection. A value of R less than or equal to 2 generally reflects a matting effect.

The matting agent may especially be chosen from a rice starch or a maize starch, kaolinite, silicas, talc, an extract of pumpkin seeds, cellulose microbeads, vegetable fibers, synthetic fibers, in particular polyamides, microspheres of expanded acrylic copolymers, polyamide powders, silica powders, polytetrafluoroethylene powders, silicone resin powders, acrylic copolymer powders, wax powders, polyethylene powders, powders crosslinked organopolysiloxane elastomer coated with silicone resin, talc / titanium dioxide / alumina / silica composite powders, amorphous mixed silicate powders, acrylic polymer powders, silicate particles and especially mixed silicate particles, and mixtures thereof.

Examples of mattifying agents that may be mentioned include:

starch from rice or maize, in particular starch octenyl succinate aluminum sold under the name Dry Flo® by the company National Starch,

kaolinite;

- silicas;

- talc;

an extract of pumpkin seeds as marketed under the name Curbilene® by the company Indena;

cellulose microbeads as described in the patent application L'OREAL E P 1,562,562;

- fibers, such as silk, cotton, wool, flax, cellulose fibers extracted in particular from wood, vegetables or algae, polyamide (Nylon®), modified cellulose, poly-p-phenylene terephtamide, acrylic, polyolefin, glass, silica, aramid, carbon, Teflon®, insoluble collagen, polyesters, polyvinyl chloride or vinylidene, polyvinyl alcohol, polyacrylonitrile, chitosan , polyurethane, polyethylene phthalate, fibers formed from a mixture of polymers, synthetic resorbable fibers, and mixtures thereof described in patent application L'OREAL EP 1 151 742;

microspheres of expanded acrylic copolymers such as those sold by Expancel under the names Expancel 551®,

optical effect charges as described in patent application FR 2 869 796, in particular:

polyamide powders (Nylon®), such as, for example, the Atofina-type Orgasol Nylon 12 particles having a mean size of 10 microns and a refractive index 1, 54,

silica powders, such as Silica beads SB150 from

Miyoshi of average size 5 microns and refractive index 1, 45,

polytetrafluoroethylene powders, such as Clariant ceridust 9205F PTFE of average size 8 microns and refractive index 1, 36, silicone resin powders such as GE Silicone Silicon resin Tospearl 145A having a mean size of 4.5 microns and a refractive index of 1.41,

powders of acrylic copolymers, in particular of methyl poly (meth) acrylate, such as PMMA Jurymer MBI particles of Nihon Junyoki having an average size of 8 microns and a refractive index of 1.49, or Micropearl M100® and F80 particles; ED® from Matsumoto Yushi-Seiyaku;

wax powders such as Paraffin wax microease particles 1 14S of micropowders of average size 7 microns and refractive index 1, 54,

polyethylene powders, especially comprising at least one ethylene / acrylic acid copolymer, and in particular consisting of ethylene / acrylic acid copolymers such as the Sumitomo Flobeads EA 209 particles (of average size 10 microns and refractive index 1, 48 )

elastomeric crosslinked organopolysiloxane powders coated with silicone resin, in particular with silsesquioxane resin, as described, for example, in US Pat. No. 5,538,793. Such elastomer powders are sold under the names "KSP-100" and "KSP-100". -101 "," KSP-102 "," KSP-103 "," KSP-104 "," KSP-105 "by the company SHIN ETSU, and

talc / titanium dioxide / alumina / silica composite powders, such as those sold under the name Coverleaf AR-80 by Catalyst & chemicals,

and their mixtures

- Absorbent and / or adsorbent sebum compounds as described in the same patent application FR 2 869 796. Mention may in particular be made of:

silica powders, such as, for example, the porous silica microspheres sold under the name "Silica Beads SB-700" marketed by the company MYOSHI, the "SUNSPHERE® H51", "SUNSPHERE® H33", "SUNSPHERE® H53" marketed by ASAHI GLASS; amorphous silica microspheres coated with polydimethylsiloxane sold under the name "SA Sunsphere® H-33" and "SA Sunsphere® H-53" sold by ASAHI GLASS; amorphous mixed silicate powders, in particular aluminum and magnesium, such as, for example, that marketed under the name "NEUSILIN UFL2" by the company Sumitomo.

polyamide powders (nylon®), for example "ORGASOL® 4000" marketed by the company ATOCHEM, and

acrylic polymer powders, in particular polymethyl methacrylate, for example "COVABEAD® LH85" marketed by WACKHERR; polymethyl methacrylate / ethylene glycol dimethacrylate, such as, for example, "DOW CORNING 5640 MICROSPONGE® SKIN OIL ADSORBER" marketed by Dow Corning, or "Ganzpearl® GMP-0820" marketed by Ganz Chemical; allyl polymethacrylate / ethylene glycol dimethacrylate, such as for example "POLY-PORE® L200" or "POLY-PORE® E200" marketed by AMCOL; ethylene glycol dimethacrylate / lauryl methacrylate copolymer, such as, for example, "POLYTRAP® 6603" marketed from Dow Corning;

silicate particles, such as alumina silicate;

mixed silicate particles, such as:

aluminum magnesium silicate particles, such as saponite or magnesium aluminum silicate, hydrated with a sodium sulphate sold under the trade name Sumecton® by the company Kunimine;

o magnesium silicate complex, hydroxyethylcellulose, black cumin oil, pumpkin oil and phospholipids or Matipure® by Lucas Meyer.

and their mixtures.

As preferred matting agents, it is possible to use, according to the invention, an extract of pumpkin seeds, a rice or maize starch, kaolinite, silicas, talc, polyamide powders, polyethylene powders and copolymer powders. acrylics, microspheres of expanded acrylic copolymers, silicone resin microbeads, mixed silicate particles and mixtures thereof. Abrasive loads or exfoliating agents

As exfoliating agents that may be used in rinsed compositions according to the invention, mention may be made, for example, of exfoliant or scrubbing particles of mineral, vegetable or organic origin. Thus, for example, beads or polyethylene powder, nylon powder, polyvinyl chloride powder, pumice, ground apricot kernels or nut shells can be used. sawdust, glass beads, alumina, and mixtures thereof.

Exfogreen® from Solabia (bamboo extract), strawberry akenes (Greentech strawberry Akènes), peach kernel powder, apricot kernel powder, and finally the field of vegetable powders with abrasive effect include the cranberry powder.

As abrasive fillers or preferred exfoliation agents according to the invention, mention may be made of peach kernel powder, apricot kernel powder, cranberry kernel powder, strawberry achene extracts, bamboo extracts.

By the additional active expression of care of oily skin is meant, in the context of the present invention, a compound which has by itself, that is to say not requiring the intervention of an external agent to activate it, a biological activity that can be in particular:

- desquamating activity (which allows the opening of comedones), and / or

an antimicrobial activity (especially on P. acnes), and / or

a soothing or anti-inflammatory activity, and / or

a sebo-regulatory activity, and / or

an antioxidant activity (which prevents the oxidation of squalene and the formation of comedones)

- a healing activity;

- an astringent activity.

As examples of associated active agents that can be used in the compositions of the invention, particular mention may be made of desquamating agents, antimicrobial agents, soothing agents, anti-inflammatory agents, sebo-regulating agents, antioxidants and mixtures thereof.

Preferably, the composition according to the invention will comprise as additional active agent at least one sebum-regulating agent. In a particular embodiment, the composition may further optionally comprise an antimicrobial agent.

More preferably it may further comprise a desquamating agent. And to further increase the efficacy and / or the tolerance of said compositions, it may additionally add soothing or anti-inflammatory agents, antioxidants, cicatrizing agents, astringent agents, and mixtures thereof.

As examples of compounds, for each class, mention may be made in particular of: Sebo-regulating or anti-seborrheic agents

By "sebo-regulating or anti-seborrhoeic agents" is meant in particular agents capable of regulating the activity of the sebaceous glands.

We can mention in particular:

retinoic acid, benzoyl peroxide, sulfur, vitamin B6 (or pyridoxine), selenium chloride, sea fennel;

mixtures of cinnamon extract, tea and octanoylglycine such as Sepicontrol A5 TEA from Seppic;

the mixture of capryloyl glycine, sarcosine and cinnamomum zeylanicum extract marketed in particular by the company SEPPIC under the trademark Sepicontrol® A5;

other zinc salts, in addition to zinc salicylate, such as zinc pyrrolidone carboxylate (or zinc pidolate), zinc lactate, zinc aspartate, zinc carboxylate, zinc cysteate;

copper salts, such as copper sulphate or copper pyrrolidone carboxylate;

plant extracts of the species Arnica montana, Cinchona succirubra, Eugenia caryophyllata, Humulus lupulus, Hypericum perforatum, Mentha piperita, Rosmarinus officinalis, Salvia oficinalis and Thymus vulga s, all marketed for example by the company MARUZEN;

- Meadowwort extracts (Spiraea ulamaria) such as that sold under the name Sébonormine® by the company Silab;

algae extracts laminaria saccharina such as that sold under the name Phlorogine® by the company Biotechmarine;

mixtures of extracts of burnet root (Sanguisorba officinalis / Poterium officinale), of ginger rhizomes (Zingiber officinalis) and of cinnamon bark (Cinnamomum cassia), such as that sold under the name Sebustop® by the company Solabia;

linseed extract, such as that sold under the name Linumine® by the company Lucas Meyer;

Phellodendron extracts such as those sold under the name Phellodendron extract BG by the company Maruzen or Oubaku liquid B by the company Ichimaru Pharcos;

mixtures of argan oil, of Serenoa serrulata (saw palmetto) extract and of sesame seed extract, such as that sold under the name Regu SEB® by the company Pentapharm;

mixtures of extracts of willowweed, terminalia chebula, nasturtium and bioavailable zinc (microalgae), such as that sold under the name Seborilys® by the company green tech;

extracts of Pygeum afrianum, such as that sold under the name Pygeum afrianum sterolic lipid extract by the company Euromed;

extracts of serenoa serrulata such as those sold under the name Viapure Sabal by the company Actives International, or those sold by the company

Euromed;

mixtures of extracts of plantain, berberis aquifolium and sodium salicylate, such as the product sold under the name Seboclear® by the company Rahn;

clove extract, such as that sold under the name Clove Extract Powder by the company Maruzen;

argan oil such as that sold under the name Lipofructyl® by Serobiological Laboratories; the lactic protein filtrates, such as that sold under the name Normaseb® by the company Sederma;

algae laminaria extracts, such as that sold under the name Laminarghane® by the company Biotechmarine;

cane sugar extracts, such as the product sold under the name Policasonol® by Sabinsa;

oligosaccharides of algae laminaria digitata such as that sold under the name Phycosaccharide AC by the company Codif;

sulphonated shale oil, such as that sold under the name Ichtyol Pale by the company Ichthyol;

- extracts of ulmaire (spiraea ulmaria) such as that sold under the name Cytobiol Ulmaire by the company Libiol;

sebacic acid, in particular sold in the form of a sodium polyacrylate gel under the name Sebosoft by Sederma;

glucomannans extracted from konjac tubers and modified with alkylsulphonate chains, such as the one sold under the name Biopol Beta by the company Arch Chemical;

extracts of Sophora angustifolia, such as those sold under the name Sophora powder or Sophora extract by the company Bioland;

extracts of Cinchona succirubra bark such as that sold under the name Red Bark HS by the company Alban Muller;

extracts of quillaja saponaria, such as the product sold under the name Panama wood HS by Alban Muller;

glycine grafted on an undecylenic chain, such as that sold under the name Lipacide UG OR by the company Seppic;

the mixture of oleanolic acid and nordihydroguaiaretic acid, such as that sold in the form of a gel under the name AC.Net by Sederma;

trialkyl citrate (C12-C13) sold under the name COSMACOL® ECI by the company Sasol; trialkyl citrate (Ci ₄ -C ₅ ) sold under the name COSMACOL® ECL by the company Sasol;

10-hydroxydecanoic acid, and in particular mixtures of 10-hydroxydecanoic acid, of sebacic acid and of 1,1-decandiol, such as that sold under the name Acnacidol® BG by the company Vincience; specific PPAR-γ activators, such as those described in application WO 2005/053632;

extracts of plants of the genus Silybum;

sapogenins or plant extracts containing them, in particular extracts of Dioscorea rich in diosgenin; and

extracts of Eugenia caryophyllata containing eugenol and eugenyl glucoside, and mixtures thereof.

As preferred seboregulating agents that can be used according to the invention, mention may be made of:

- sea fennel;

the mixture of capryloyl glycine, sarcosine and cinnamomum zeylanicum extract marketed in particular by the company SEPPIC under the trade name Sepicontrol A5®;

zinc salts, such as zinc pyrrolidone carboxylate (or zinc pidolate), zinc lactate, zinc aspartate, zinc carboxylate, zinc cysteate;

copper salts, such as copper sulphate or copper pyrrolidone carboxylate;

algae extracts laminaria saccharina such as that sold under the name Phlorogine by the company Biotechmarine;

- mixtures of extracts of burnet root (Sanguisorba officinalis / Poterium officinale), ginger rhizomes (Zingiber officinalis) and cinnamon bark

(cinnamomum cassia) such as that sold under the name Sebustop® by the company Solabia;

sapogenins or plant extracts containing them, in particular extracts of Dioscorea rich in diosgenin,

and their mixtures.

Mention may also be made of antiperspirants, such as: aluminum and / or zirconium salts; complexes of zirconium hydroxychloride and hydroxychloride of aluminum with an amino acid such as those described in US-3792068 commonly known as "ZAG complexes". Such complexes are generally known by the name ZAG (when the amino acid is Glycine). The ZAG complexes usually have an Al / Zr quotient ranging from about 1.67 to 12.5 and a Metal / Cl quotient ranging from about 0.73 to 1.93. Among these products, mention may be made of aluminum zirconium octachlorohydrex GLY, aluminum zirconium pentachlorohydrex GLY, aluminum zirconium tetrachlorohydrate GLY and aluminum zirconium trichlorohydrate-GLY.

Among the aluminum salts, mention may be made of aluminum chlorohydrate, chlorohydroxyl aluminum, chlorohydroxyl aluminum PEG, aluminum chlorohydrex PG, aluminum dichlorohydrate, aluminum dichlorohydrex PEG, aluminum dichlorohydrex PG, aluminum sesquichlorohydrate, aluminum sesquichlorohydrex PEG, aluminum sesquichlorohydrex PG, alum salts, aluminum sulfate, aluminum zirconium octachlorohydrate, aluminum zirconium pentachlorohydrate, aluminum zirconium tetrachlorohydrate, aluminum zirconium trichlorohydrate and more particularly the aluminum hydrochloride marketed by the company REHEIS under the name MICRODRY ALUMINUM CHLOROHYDRATE or by the company GUILINI CHEMIE under the name ALOXICOLL PF 40. Aluminum and zirconium salts are for example that marketed by the company REHEIS under the name REACH AZP-908-SUF, activated aluminum salt for example that marketed by the company REHEIS s or the REACH 103 denomination or by WESTWOOD under the name WESTCHLOR 200.

Other deodorant active agents also include zinc salts such as zinc sulphate, zinc chloride, zinc lactate, zinc phenolsulphonate; chlorhexidine and salts; diglycerol monocaprate, diglycerol monolaurate, glycerol monolaurate; salts of polyhexamethylene biguanide.

Anti-microbial agents

By anti-microbial agents is meant agents having effects on the specific flora of oily skin, such as, for example, P acnes. These effects can be either bactericidal or bacterial anti-adhesion (prevents and / or reduces the adhesion of microorganisms) or acting on the biofilm of bacteria to prevent their multiplication.

Mention may in particular be made of the active agents and preservatives with antimicrobial activity mentioned in application DE10324567, incorporated in the present invention by reference.

We can also mention: a hop cone extract (HOP CO2-TO extract from Flavex), a Millepertius extract (ST John's Wort CO2-TO Flavex extract), Asian acid, extracts of scutellaria baicolensis roots as in Naturogin BMB-CF, piroctone olamine, citrollic acid, sperillic acid, ethylhexylglycerine (Sensiva De Shulke), caprylate / gluceryl caprate (ABITEC Capmul), calcium sodium phosphosilicate as Bioactive Schott's glasspowder, Schott's Actysse first BG, Ciba's silicon oxides, Metashines (silver derivatives), Bearberry extracts like Gattefossé's Gatuline equalizing, 10-hydroxy-2 decanoic acid as well as Vincient Acnacidol P, sodium ursolate, azelaic acid, di-iodomethyl P tolylsulfone or Angus Flowable Amicale, Malachite from Maprecos, Zincare from Elementis GMBH, arlatone dioic from Unichema ; ellagic acid; 2,4,4'-trichloro-2'-hydroxy-diphenyl ether (or triclosan), 1- (3 ', 4'-dichlorophenyl) -3- (4'-chlorophenyl) urea (or triclocarban), 3 4,4'-trichlorocarbanilide, 3 ', 4', 5'-trichlorosalicylanilide, phenoxyethanol, phenoxypropanol, phenoxyisopropanol, hexamidine isethionate, metronidazole and its salts, miconazole and its salts, itraconazole, terconazole, econazole, ketoconazole, saperconazole, fluconazole, clotrimazole, butoconazole, oxiconazole, sulfaconazole, sulconazole, terbinafine, ciclopirox, ciclopiroxolamine, undecylenic acid and its salts, benzoyl peroxide, 3-hydroxy benzoic acid, 4-hydroxy benzoic acid, phytic acid, N-acetyl-L-cysteine, lipoic acid, azelaic acid and its salts, acid arachidonic acid, resorcinol, 3,4,4'-trichlorocarbanalide, octopirox or piroctone olamine, octoxyglycerine or octoglycerine, octanoylglycine (Lipacid C8G® from Seppic), ca prylyl glycol, 10-hydroxy-2-decanoic acid, dichlorophenyl imidazol dioxolan and its derivatives described in patent application WO9318743, zinc derivatives and in particular zinc pidolate (Zincidone® from Solabia), derivatives of copper, salicylic acid and other acid derivatives salicylic acid, iodopropynyl butylcarbamate, 3,7,1 1 -trimethyldodeca-2,5,10-trienol or farnesol, phytosphingosines; Sepicontrol® from Seppic, an argan extract known as Argapure LS9710®, Sebosoft® from Sederma, quaternary ammonium salts such as cetyltrimethylammonium salts, cetylpyridinium salts, ethanol, and mixtures thereof. .

As agents that prevent and / or reduce the adhesion of microorganisms, mention may be made in particular of: phytanetriol and its derivatives as described in patent application EP 1 529 523, vegetable oils such as wheat germ oil , calendula oil, castor oil, olive oil, avocado oil, sweet almond oil, peanut oil, jojoba oil, sesame oil, apricot kernel oil, sunflower oil, macadamia oil, described in patent EP 1 133 979, or other fatty substances such as cocoamphodiacetate disodium, cocoate of oxyethylenated glyceryl (7 EO), Poloxamers, hexadecenylsuccinate 18, octoxyglyceryl palmitate, octoxyglyceryl behenate, dioctyl adipate, PPG-15 stearyl ether, C12-C13 di-alcohol tartrate branched derivatives described in EP 1 129 694.

In particular with respect to the propagation of P acnnes, mention may be made of pentylene glycol, nylon-66 (polyamide 66 fibers), rice bran oil, Celvol 540 PV alcohol (Polyvinyl alcohol 72962) , Akorex L from Karlshamns, fructose derivatives.

Mention may also be made of certain surfactants having an antimicrobial effect such as cocoampho sodium acetate or diacetate disodium such as Miranol C2M CONC NP, betaines such as cocoyl betaine Genagen KB from Clariant, sodium lauryl ether sulfate such as Emal 270 D Kao, decyl glucoside such as Plantacare 2000 UP, C12-13 dialkyl malate branched as Cosmacol EMI, propylene glycol monoesters such as monolaurate, monocaprylate, propylene glycol monocaprate, sodium lauroyl oat amino acid such as Proteol OAT , lauryl dimethylamine betaine such as Empigen BB / LS as well as quaternary polyammoniums such as Quaternium-24 or Bardac 2050 from Lonza and those described in the L'OREAL patent FR 0 108 283. As preferred antimicrobial agents, the compositions of the invention will use an agent chosen from caprylyl glycol, zinc derivatives including zinc pidolate (Zincidone® from Solabia), copper derivatives, octoglycerine or octoxyglycerine, and 10-hydroxy-2-decanoic acid, and mixtures thereof.

Desquamating agents

By "desquamating agent" is meant any compound capable of acting:

or directly on desquamation by promoting exfoliation, such as β-hydroxy acids, in particular salicylic acid and its derivatives (including n-octanoyl-5-salicylic acid); α-hydroxy acids, such as glycolic, citric, lactic, tartaric, malic or mandelic acids; urea; gentisic acid and its derivatives; oligofucoses; cinnamic acid; Saphora japonica extract; resveratrol and certain jasmonic acid derivatives; or on the enzymes involved in the desquamation or degradation of corneodesmosomes, glycosidases, stratum corneum chymotryptic enzyme (SCCE) or even other proteases (trypsin, chymotrypsin-like). Mention may be made of aminosulfonic compounds and in particular (N-2-hydroxyethylpiperazine-N-2-ethane) sulfonic acid (HEPES); 2-oxothiazolidine-4-carboxylic acid derivatives (procysteine); glycine-type alpha amino acid derivatives (as described in EP-0 852 949, as well as the sodium methyl glycine diacetate marketed by BASF under the trade name TRILON M); honey ; sugar derivatives such as O-octanoyl-6-D-maltose and N-acetyl glucosamine. Other desquamating agents that can be used in the composition according to the invention include oligofructoses, EDTA and its derivatives, laminaria extract, o-linoleyl-6D-glucose, (3-hydroxy-2-pentylcyclopentyl) acetic acid, glycerol trilactate, O-octanyl-6'-D-maltose, S carboxymethyl cysteine, the silicon derivatives of salicylate as in patent EP 0 796 861, oligofucase as in patent EP 0 218 200, salts 5-acyl salicylic acid, active agents having effects on transglutaminase as in patent EP 0 899 330, jasmonic acid and derivatives as in patent applications EP 1 333 022 and EP 1 333 021, Exfolactive® from Silab (ficus opuntia indica flower extract), Soypon O® from Kawaken fine chemicals (sodium cocoyl sarcosinate)

Preferred desquamating agents include beta-hydroxy acids such as n-octanoyl-5-salicylic acid; urea; glycolic, citric, lactic, tartaric, malic or mandelic acids; (N-2-hydroxyethylpiperazine-N-2-ethane) sulfonic acid (HEPES); Saphora japonica extract; honey ; N-acetyl glucosamine; sodium methyl glycine diacetate, and mixtures thereof. Even more preferentially, it will be used in the compositions of the invention a desquamating agent chosen from n-octanoyl 5-salicylic acid; urea; (N-2-hydroxyethylpiperazine-N-2-ethane) sulfonic acid (HEPES); Saphora japonica extract; honey ; Nacetyl glucosamine; sodium methyl glycine diacetate, and mixtures thereof.

Soothing or anti-irritant agents

Mention may in particular be made of the soothing or anti-irritant agents cited in the applications WO2004 / 105736 and DE10324567, incorporated in the present invention by reference.

As particular soothing agents that may be used in the composition according to the invention, mention may be made of: procyannidol oligomers, vitamins E, C, B5, B3, dextran sulphate, caffeine and its derivatives, pentacyclic triterpenes and plant extracts containing them, b-glycyrrhetinic acid and its salts or derivatives (stearyl glycyrrhetate, 3-stearoyloxy glycyrrhetic acid, glycyrrhetinic acid monoglucuronide) and the plants containing it (eg Glycyrrhiza glabra), oleanolic acid and its salts, ursolic acid and its salts, boswellic acid and its salts, betulinic acid and its salts, an extract of Paeonia suffruticosa and / or lactiflora, the phycosshacharides of Codif, an extract of Laminaria saccharina , extracts of Centella asiatica, canola oil, bisabolol, vitamin E and C diesterphosphoric acid, such as Seppic's Sepivital EPC®, chamomile extracts, allantoin, unsaturated 3 such as rose bush, black currant, ecchium, fish, calophilum oil, plankton extracts, capryloyl glycine, Seppic Seppicalm VG® (waterlily alba and sodium palmitoylproline), an extract of Pygeum, an extract of Boswellia serrata, an extract of Centipeda cunnighami, an extract of Helianthus annus, in particular Helioxin of Silab, an extract Linum usitatissimum such as Silab Sensilin, tocotrienols, Cola nitida extracts, piperonal, clove extract, Epilobium angustifolium extract, aloe vera, Bacopa moniera extract, phytosterols, l cornflower water, rose water, dextran as in Vincience Modulène®, mint extract, especially mint leaves such as Silab's Calmiskin®, anise derivatives, filamentous bacteria such as Vitreoscilla filiformis as described in patent EP 761 204, a pink extract such as Herbasol rose extract, Stimutex AS from Pentapharm, alkaline earth salts including strontium, niacinamide, and mixtures thereof.

As preferred soothing agents, use will be made of an agent chosen from a rose extract, a clove extract, dextran as in Vincience's Modulene®, a mint extract such as Silab's Calmiskin®, a mixture of an extract of waterlily alba and sodium palmitoylproline such as Seppic Seppicalm VG®, anise derivatives, an extract of Paeonia suffruticosa and / or lactiflora, and mixtures thereof. Anti-inflammatory agents

In particular, mention may be made of the anti-inflammatory agents mentioned in the applications WO2004 / 105736 and DE10324567, incorporated in the present invention by reference. Particular antiinflammatory agents that can be used according to the invention include cortisone, hydrocortisone, indomethacin, betamethasone, azealic acid, acetaminophen, diclofenac, clobetasol propionate and mixtures thereof. As a preferred anti-inflammatory agent, mention will be made of azelaic acid.

Antioxidants By this expression is meant to define the agents having an antioxidant activity (which prevent the oxidation of squalene and the formation of comedones).

There may be mentioned in particular tocopherol and its esters, in particular tocopherol acetate; BHT and BHA.

There may also be mentioned polyphenols, tannic acid, epoigallocathechins and natural extracts containing them, anthocyanins, rosemary extracts, olive leaf extracts, green tea, resveratrol and its derivatives, Pycnogenol ergothineine, N acetylcysteine, biotin, chelants, idebenone, plant extracts Pronital Proniten Bioprotect TM from Provital, antiradicals such as vitamin E, coenzyme Q10, bioflavonoids, SOD, phytantriol, lignans, melatonin, pidolates, glutathione.

Healing agents

As examples of cicatrizing agents, mention may in particular be made of:

allantoin, urea, wheat germ oil, certain amino acids such as hydroxyproline, arginine, serine, and also extracts of white lily (eg Phytelene Lys 37EG 16295 from Indena), a yeast extract such as the LS 7225B healing agent from LS (Cognis), tamanu oil, Saccharomyces cerevisiae extract or Biodynes TRF from Arch Chemical, oat extracts, chitosan and derivatives, carrot extracts, Vincenzo artemia or GP4G extract, sodium acexamate, lavandin extracts, extracts of honey or propolis, ximeninic acid and its salts, such as Indena's acidoximininico, rosa rugosa oil the Alban Muller Liposolble-Souri, horsetail extracts, cosmetochem lemon herbasol, helichryse extracts, betaglucan and derivatives, shea butter and purified fractions thereof, modified exopolysaccharides and alkylsulfonated polyaminosaccharides.

Preferred healing agents according to the invention are tamanu oil, sodium acexamate, honey extracts, horsetail extracts, helichryse extracts, and mixtures thereof.

Astringent agents By "astringent agents" is meant according to the invention agents for controlling the dilation of the sebaceous follicles.

As astringent agents that can be used in the composition according to the invention, mention may be made of Laricyl LS8865® from Cognis, Phytofirm LS9120® from Cognis, Tanlex VEA / B® from Ichimaru Pharcos, laponite, aluminum salts, extracts of centella (formerly Plantactiv centella of Cognis), Varisoft 432 CG® by Degussa, extracts of chestnut turkey, extracts of mauve, Hammamelis, Almondermin LS 3380® from Cognis, extracts of burdock, Extrapone 9 Symrise specia®l, scutellaria extracts, Ulmaire extracts (ex Cytobiol Ulmaire de Libiol), Bell flavors & fragrances B1348® Herb extract, acacia, elm and white willow extracts , cinnamon, birch, meadowsweet, panama sapogenins, Interchemical zinc phenolsulfonate, gentian extracts, cucumber, walnut, Alban Muller's Epilami blend.

Preferred astringent agents according to the invention are scutellaria extract, ulmary extract, close-up queen extract, gentian extract, burdock extract and mixtures thereof. According to a particular embodiment of the invention, it will be possible to add to these ingredients and / or active agents for the treatment of oily skin other agents intended to embellish the appearance and / or the texture of the skin. In particular, it will be possible to add, in the compositions of the invention, active agents used to prevent and / or treat the signs of skin aging.

The additional active ingredient (s) and / or ingredient (s) used in the composition according to the invention may represent from 0.0001 to 20%, preferably from 0.01 to 10% and better still from 0.01 to 5% by weight relative to to the total weight of the composition. According to one particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention is intended for the care and / or the treatment of persons having a phototype skin of III to VI.

Indeed, skin imperfections of oily skin may be more or less visible depending on the phototype of the subjects, especially on the skins of subjects to high phototype, ie skin of subjects with phototype III to VI, defined according to the Fitzpatrick classification which is based on the reactivity of the skin to the effects of solar radiation:

I always burn, never bronze

He still burns, little bronze

III burns moderately, bronze gradually

IV burns weakly, bronze very easily

V rarely burns, intensely bronze

VI never burns, strongly pigmented.

The compositions according to the invention are preferably cosmetic compositions for the care of oily skin.

These compositions are intended for topical application on the face and / or the body. In particular, the composition is applied to the areas of the face or the forehead having a gloss of the skin. It may also be shaving compositions or aftershave, especially for men.

The cosmetic and / or dermatological composition according to the invention may also contain adjuvants which are customary in the cosmetic or dermatological field, such as hydrophilic or lipophilic gelling agents, preservatives, solvents, perfumes, fillers, UV filters and bactericides. , odor absorbers, dyestuffs, plant extracts, salts, antioxidants, basic agents, acids, nonionic, anionic, cationic surfactants.

The amounts of these various adjuvants are those conventionally used in the field under consideration, and for example from 0.01 to 20% of the total weight of the composition. These adjuvants, depending on their nature, can be introduced into the fatty phase, into the aqueous phase and / or into the lipid vesicles.

As fillers which can be used in the composition of the invention, mention may be made, for example, besides the pigments, the silica powder; talcum; polyamide particles and especially those sold under the name ORGASOL by the Atochem company; polyethylene powders; micro-spheres based on acrylic copolymers, such as those made of ethylene glycol dimethacrylate / lauryl methacrylate copolymer sold by Dow Corning under the name Polytrap; expanded powders such as hollow microspheres and in particular the microspheres sold under the name Expancel by the company Kemanord Plast or under the name Micropearl F 80 ED by the company Matsumoto; silicone resin microbeads such as those sold under the name Tospearl by the company Toshiba Silicone; and their mixtures. These fillers may be present in amounts ranging from 0 to 20% by weight and preferably from 1 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

As hydrophilic or lipophilic gelling agents, there may be mentioned in particular carbopol, luvigel, Hostacerin AMPS, Simulgel, Sepigel, xanthan, guar, cellulose gums, alginates and mixtures thereof. We can also mention hectorites.

Antioxidants that may be mentioned include polyphenols, tannic acid, epoigallocathechins and natural extracts containing them, anthocyanins, rosemary extracts, olive leaf extracts, green tea, resveratrol and its derivatives. derivatives, Pycnogenol, ergothineine, N acetylcysteine, biotin, chelants, idebenone, plant extracts Pronital Proniten Bioprotect TM from Provital, antiradicals such as vitamin E, coenzyme Q10, bioflavonoids , SOD, phytantriol, lignans, melatonin, pidolates, glutathione.

According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the composition used according to the invention contains at least one UV filter (or sunscreen) which may be a chemical filter or a physical filter or a mixture of such filters. By way of illustration and in a nonlimiting manner, mention may be made of the following families (the names correspond to the CTFA nomenclature of the filters): anthranilates, in particular menthyl anthranilate; benzophenones, in particular benzophenone-1, benzophenone-3, benzophenone-5, benzophenone-6, benzophenone-8, benzophenone-9, benzophenone-12, and preferentially benzophenone-2 (Oxybenzone), or benzophenone-4 (Uvinul MS40 available from BASF); benzylidenecamphers, in particular 3-benzylidene camphor, benzylidenecamphosulfonic acid, camphor benzalkonium methosulphate, polyacrylamidomethylbenzylidene camphor, terephthalylidene di-camphorsulfonic acid, and preferentially 4-methylbenzylidene camphor (Eusolex 6300 available). at Merck); benzimidazoles, in particular benzimidazilate (Neo Heliopan AP available from Haarmann and Reimer), or phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid (Eusolex 232 available from Merck); benzotriazoles, in particular trisiloxane drometzol, or methylenebisbenzotriazolyltetramethylbutylphenol (Tinosorb M available from Ciba); cinnamates, in particular cinoxate, DEA methoxycinnamate, diisopropyl methylcinnamate, dimethoxycinnamate glyceryl ethylhexanoate, isopropyl methoxycinnamate, isoamyl cinnamate, and preferably ethocrylene (Uvinul N35 available from BASF), octyl methoxycinnamate (Parsol MCX available from Hoffmann La Roche), or octocrylene (Uvinul 539 available from BASF); dibenzoylmethanes, especially butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane (Parsol 1789); imidazolines, in particular ethylhexyl dimethoxybenzylidene dioxoimidazoline; PABAs, in particular ethyl dihydroxypropyl PABA, ethylhexyldimethyl PABA, glyceryl PABA, PABA, PEG-25 PABA, and preferentially diethylhexylbutamido triazone (Uvasorb HEB available from 3V Sigma), ethyl hexyltriazone (Uvinul T150 available from BASF), or ethyl PABA (benzocaine); salicylates, especially dipropylene glycol salicyclate, ethylhexyl salicylate, homosalate, or TEA salicylate; azines, in particular anisot azine (Tinosorb S available from Ciba); trisiloxane drometzol, zinc oxide, titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, iron oxide, zirconium oxide, cerium oxide coated or uncoated.

The amount of filters depends on the desired end use. It may range, for example, from 1 to 30% by weight and better still from 2 to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

Of course, those skilled in the art will take care to choose this or these optional ingredients and / or additional active ingredients, and / or their quantity, in such a way that the properties Advantageous of the combination of at least one bacteriocin and at least one prebiotic according to the invention are not, or not substantially, impaired by the addition envisaged. The compositions according to the invention may be applied directly to the skin or, alternatively, to occlusive or non-occlusive type cosmetic supports intended to be applied in a localized manner to the skin. As examples of non-limiting cosmetic media, there may be mentioned a patch, a wipe, a roll-on and a pen.

The support may be an occlusive support. By way of example, the support consists of a thermoplastic material chosen from high and low density polyethylenes, polypropylenes, polyvinyl chlorides, copolymers of ethylene and vinyl acetate, polyesters and polyurethanes. , or a complex of such materials. These materials may also be present in laminated form with at least one sheet of metal such as aluminum foil.

The support layer may be of any suitable thickness which will provide the desired support and protection functions. Preferably, the thickness of the support layer is from about 20 μm to about 1.5 mm. Advantageously, the support layer is sufficiently flexible so as to perfectly fit the profile of the skin, and not to cause the user, a feeling of discomfort. Preferably, however, the carrier is non-occlusive. In the latter case, it is advantageous to use a support consisting of a paper, a porous or perforated thermoplastic material, a woven fabric, a nonwoven fabric or a perforated nonwoven fabric.

According to another embodiment of the invention, said compositions according to the invention may be combined with orally administered compositions containing cosmetic active agents with a beneficial effect on the appearance of the skin. The invention also relates to a composition as described above, for the care and / or cleaning of sensitive skin, irritated, or having eczema or atopic dermatitis. In particular, it aims at a composition as described above. before to prevent and / or treat skin irritation, eczema, or atopic dermatitis.

It also relates to a cosmetic process for the care and / or the cleaning of sensitive skin, irritated, or presenting with eczema or atopic dermatitis.

It also relates to a cosmetic skin care process, implementing a composition as defined above, characterized in that it aims to reduce skin imperfections, including skin imperfections of oily skin.

The term "skin imperfections of oily skin", in particular, the shine, the shine of the skin, the expansion of the pores of the skin, a thick skin texture, all of which may lead in particular to comedones. cosmetic skin care product, particularly for the purpose of mattifying the skin, comprising the topical application thereof, of a composition as defined above.

The composition according to the invention may in particular be used to correct or prevent lesions and / or skin imperfections encountered in an acne or acne-prone skin, especially a subject with oily acne-prone skin. In this context, the composition according to the invention will preferably comprise plantaricin 149 as a bacteriocin and / or a fructo-oligosaccharide as a prebiotic.

The invention therefore relates to a composition as described above, to reduce imperfections of oily skin. An aspect of the invention is more particularly the use of such a composition for the care and / or cleansing of the skin, especially oily skin, and more specifically for oily acne-prone skin. In this context, the composition according to the invention will preferably comprise plantaricin 149 as a bacteriocin and / or a fructooligosaccharide as a prebiotic. The invention also relates to a composition comprising the combination as described above, for the care and / or the cleaning of acne-prone or acne-prone skin, in particular fatty skin with an acne-prone tendency. In this context, the composition according to the invention will preferably comprise plantaricin 149 as a bacteriocin and / or a fructo-oligosaccharide as a prebiotic.

The invention also relates to a cosmetic process for the care of oily skin, comprising the application to the skin of a composition comprising the combination as defined above. In this context, the composition according to the invention will preferably comprise plantaricin 149 as a bacteriocin and / or a fructooligosaccharide as a prebiotic.

The invention also relates to a method for the care and / or cleaning of oily skin, comprising the application to the skin of a composition comprising the combination of a bacteriocin and a prebiotic as defined above . In this context, the composition according to the invention will preferably comprise plantaricin 149 as a bacteriocin and / or a fructo-oligosaccharide as a prebiotic.

According to a particular embodiment, the composition described above is applied to areas of the face or forehead with a gloss of the skin.

According to another particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention is applied to the skin of persons whose skin is of phototype III to VI. The invention furthermore relates to a composition as described above, in particular as a dermatological composition, intended for the preventive and / or curative treatment of acne and / or hyperseborrhoea. The invention therefore also relates to the use of the combination of a bacteriocin and a prebiotic for the preparation of a composition intended for the preventive and / or curative treatment of acne and / or hyperseborrhoea, and or intended to correct disorders associated with acne and / or hyperseborrhea. The invention furthermore relates to a plantaricin class II, in particular plantaricin 149, for use in the preventive and / or curative treatment of skin disorders related to P. acnes, in particular acne. The invention also relates to a cosmetic and / or dermatological composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, plantaricin 149.

The invention also relates to a composition, in particular a dermatological composition, comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, a class II plantaricin, in particular the plantaricin peptide 149, for use in the preventive and / or curative treatment of skin-related disorders. P. acnes, especially in the treatment of acne.

According to a particular embodiment, the composition for use in the preventive or curative treatment of disorders related to P. acnes (in particular acne) is characterized in that it further comprises an additional asset for the care of the skin. fatty oils selected from desquamating agents, antimicrobial agents, soothing agents, anti-inflammatory agents, sebo-regulating agents, antioxidants, healing agents, astringent agents, and mixtures thereof.

According to another aspect, the invention relates to a cosmetic process for the care and / or cleaning of the skin, in particular of oily skin, comprising the topical application to said skin of a cosmetic composition comprising a physiologically acceptable medium. , a class II plantaricin, in particular plantaricin 149.

Advantageously, the cosmetic process is intended to reduce and / or eliminate cutaneous imperfections related to P. acnes, in particular chosen from an irregular relief, dilated pores, comedones and / or blackheads.

In another aspect, the composition according to the invention is used as an antibacterial active agent, to reduce the amount of acne-causing germs present on the skin. the skin, or to limit their development, and in particular to reduce the amount of P. / Acnes and / or P. Granulosum, or to limit the development of one of these germs. It may especially be in the form of a cream or an anti-acne gel.

What is meant by the term "treatment", and all its variations, curative or preventive treatment. The dermatological composition according to the invention can thus be used in a subject having acne or hyperseborrhoea. The dermatological composition according to the invention can also be used for delaying or slowing the progression or preventing a further progression of acne, improving the aesthetic appearance of the skin of the user. The dermatological composition of the present invention may finally be administered to a person who does not have acne, but whose skin, especially oily skin, is acne-prone.

The amount of the combination of at least one bacteriocin and at least one prebiotic in the dermatological composition according to the invention will advantageously be in the ranges described above, to obtain the desired effect. Of course, those skilled in the art are able to establish the effective amount of said combination in the dermatological composition according to the invention, and will ensure that the additional ingredients and / or active ingredients introduced into said composition do not affect the advantageous effects of the association.

According to another aspect, the invention relates to a method of dermatological treatment of the disorders of the skin indicated above, comprising the topical administration of a composition comprising at least the combination according to the invention, as described above. , to a person in need.

The composition can be applied in any way that can be envisaged by those skilled in the art. In particular, it may be envisaged to apply the composition directly to the skin or to dilute it beforehand in a suitable solvent. According to a particular embodiment, said methods or said uses according to the invention further comprise a rinsing step after application to the skin of the composition. Thus, after application to the skin, the composition can be rinsed after a pause, advantageously between 5 and 30 minutes.

* Composition for the treatment of desquamative disorders of the hair or scalp

The invention therefore also relates to a composition comprising the combination as defined above, intended for the treatment of desquamative disorders of the hair and / or the scalp.

According to the invention, the desquamative states of the hair and / or the scalp are, for example, dandruff, seborrheic dermatitis. Preferably, said desquamative states of the scalp are those induced by the yeast of the genus Malassezia spp., And more particularly M. furfur.

The compositions for the treatment of the desquamative states of the hair and / or the scalp according to the invention may be intended for a cosmetic or pharmaceutical application, particularly dermatological. Preferably the compositions according to the invention are intended for a cosmetic application.

The compositions according to the invention are generally applied to the scalp or the hair.

Depending on the mode of administration, the composition of the invention may be in any galenical form normally used, particularly in cosmetology. A composition for treating the desquamative conditions of the hair and / or the preferred scalp of the invention is a cosmetic composition intended for topical application. The composition for the treatment of the desquamative states of the hair and / or scalp according to the invention, after application to human hair and scalp can be rinsed or not rinsed with water or with a shampoo. It can be in any form conventionally used in the field concerned and for example in the form of an aqueous or oily solution or of the lotion or serum type dispersion, emulsions of liquid or semi-liquid consistency of the milk type, obtained by dispersion of a fatty phase in an aqueous phase (O / W) or conversely ( E / H), or suspensions or emulsions of soft consistency of the cream or gel type aqueous or anhydrous, or microcapsules or microparticles, or vesicular dispersions of ionic and / or nonionic type. These compositions are prepared according to the usual methods.

The composition that may be used according to the invention may also be a composition for hair care, and in particular a shampoo, a setting lotion, a treatment lotion, a cream or a styling gel, a dye composition (especially oxidation dyes). optionally in the form of coloring shampoos, restructuring lotions for the hair, a permanent composition (in particular a composition for the first time of a perm), a preparation (lotion, gel, shampoo), anti-hair loss, a pest control shampoo, etc. .

The amounts of the various constituents of the compositions for treating the desquamative states of the hair and / or scalp that can be used according to the invention are those conventionally used in the fields under consideration.

The compositions for the treatment of the desquamative states of the hair and / or the scalp which can be used according to the invention may also consist of solid preparations constituting soaps or cleaning bars.

The compositions for the treatment of the desquamative states of the hair and / or the scalp which can be used according to the invention can also be packaged in the form of an aerosol composition also comprising a propellant under pressure.

The compositions for the treatment of the desquamative states of the hair and / or scalp according to the invention contain a physiologically acceptable medium. In particular, this medium contains an aqueous phase containing water and optionally at least one water-miscible organic solvent such as C2-C6 monoalcohols such as ethanol, isopropanol, n-butanol, polyols such as propylene glycol, glycerol or glycol ethers. This medium may contain an oily phase containing one or more liquid fats which are liquid at room temperature (25 ° C.) and atmospheric pressure, immiscible with water, called "oils".

The physiologically acceptable medium may, in addition, comprise at least one surfactant chosen from nonionic surfactants, anionic surfactants, cationic surfactants, amphoteric surfactants, and mixtures thereof.

The compositions according to the invention may further contain, as washing base, at least one surfactant chosen from anionic, nonionic and amphoteric surfactants and mixtures thereof.

As anionic surfactant usable in the present invention, mention may especially be made of salts, in particular alkali metal salts such as sodium salts, ammonium salts, amine salts, aminoalcohol salts or salts thereof. alkaline earth metal salts, for example of magnesium, of the following types: alkyl sulphates, alkyl ether sulphates, alkyl amido ether sulphates, alkylaryl polyethersulphates, monoglyceride sulphates; alkylsulfonates, alkylamidesulfonates, alkylarylsulfonates, α-olefinsulfonates, paraffin sulfonates, alkylsulfosuccinates, alkylethersulfosuccinates, alkylamidesulfosuccinates, alkylsulphoacetates, acylsarcosinates and acylglutamates, alkyl and acyl groups; of all these compounds having from 6 to 24 carbon atoms and the aryl group preferably denoting a phenyl or benzyl group, their mixtures.

C ₆ -C 2 ₄ alkyl monoesters and polyglycoside dicarboxylic acids such as alkyl glucoside citrates, alkyl polyglycoside tartrates and polyglycoside sulfosuccinates may also be used as anionic surfactants. alkyl, alkylsulfosuccinamates, acylisethionates and N-acyltaurates, the alkyl or acyl group of all these compounds having from 12 to 20 carbon atoms, and mixtures thereof. Another group of anionic surfactants that can be used in the composition of the present invention is that of acyl lactylates, the acyl group of which contains from 8 to 20 carbon atoms.

Furthermore, mention may also be made of alkyl-D-galactoside-uronic acids and their salts, polyoxyalkylenated (C6-C2 ₄₎ ether carboxylic acids, polyoxyalkylenated (C6-C2 ₄₎ aryl (C6-C2 ₄ poly (oxyalkylenated) ether carboxylic acids, poly (oxyalkylenated) (C ₆ -C 2 ₄ ) alkyl amidoether carboxylic acids and their salts, in particular those containing from 2 to 50 ethylene oxide units, and mixtures thereof.

Anionic surfactants are preferably alkyl sulphates, alkyl ether sulphates and alkyl ether carboxylates, and mixtures thereof, in particular in the form of alkali metal or alkaline earth metal salts, ammonium, amine or aminoalcohol.

As amphoteric surfactant that may be used in the present invention, mention may be made of derivatives of secondary or tertiary aliphatic amines, in which the aliphatic group is a linear or branched chain containing from 8 to 22 carbon atoms and containing at least one anionic group such as for example, a carboxylate, sulfonate, sulfate, phosphate or phosphonate group. Mention may in particular be made of (C 8 -C 20) alkyl betaines, sulphobetaines, (C 8 -C 20) alkylamido (C 6 -C 8) alkyl betaines, (C 8 -C 20) alkylamido (C 6 -C 8) alkyl sulphobetaines and their Among the amine derivatives, mention may be made of the products sold under the name MIRANOL®, as described in patents US 2 528 378 and US 2 781 354 and classified in the CTFA dictionary, 3rd edition, 1982, under the terms Amphocarboxy-glycinate and Amphocarboxypropionate denominations of respective structures (2) and (3):

R-CONHCH ₂ CH 2 -N (R ₂₎ (R 3) (CH 2 COO) (2)

in which :

Ri represents an alkyl group derived from an acid Ra-COOH present in the hydrolysed coconut oil, a heptyl, nonyl or undecyl group, . R2 represents a beta-hydroxyethyl group, and

. R3 represents a carboxymethyl group; and

Ri'-CONHCH ₂ CH ₂ -N (B) (C) (3)

in which :

. B represents -CH ₂ CH ₂ OX \

. C represents - (CH ₂ ) _Z -Y \ with z = 1 or 2,

. X 'represents the group -CH ₂ CH ₂ -COOH or a hydrogen atom,

. Y 'represents -COOH or the group -CH ₂ -CHOH-SO ₃ H,

. R 1 'represents an alkyl group of an R 1 -COOH acid present in coconut oil or in hydrolysed linseed oil, an alkyl group, especially C 17 and its iso form, an unsaturated C 17 group.

These compounds are classified in the CTFA dictionary, 5th edition, 1993, under the names coco-amphodiacetate disodium, lauro-amphodiacetate disodium, caprylamphodiacetate disodium, caprylo-amphodiacetate disodium, coco-ampho-dipropionate disodium, lauro-ampho disodium dipropionate, disodium capryl-ampho-dipropionate, disodium caprylo-amphodipropionate, lauro-amphodipropionic acid, cocoamino-dipropionic acid. By way of example, mention may be made of cocoamphodiacetate marketed by Rhodia under the trade name MIRANOL® C2M concentrate.

Of the amphoteric surfactants, C 8 -C 20 alkylbetaines, C ₈ -C 20 alkylamido (C ₆ -C ₈ ) alkylbetaines, alkylamphodiacetates and mixtures thereof are preferably used.

As nonionic surfactant that can be used in the composition according to the invention, mention may be made of the known compounds described in particular in the book "Handbook of Surfactants" by MR PORTER, published by Blackie & Son (Glasgow and London), 1991, pp. -178). It is chosen in particular from alcohols, alpha-diols, alkyl (C1 -20) phenols or polyethoxylated, polypropoxylated or polyglycerolated fatty acids, having a fatty chain comprising, for example, from 8 to 18 carbon atoms, the number ethylene oxide or propylene oxide groups which can range from 2 to 50 and the number of glycerol groups that can range from 2 to 30, their mixtures.

Mention may also be made, as nonionic surfactant, which can be used in the invention, of ethylene oxide and propylene oxide condensates on fatty alcohols; polyethoxylated fatty amides preferably having from 2 to 30 ethylene oxide units; polyglycerolated fatty amides comprising on average from 1 to 5 glycerol groups and in particular from 1, 5 to 4; ethoxylated sorbitan fatty acid esters having 2 to 30 ethylene oxide units; fatty acid esters of sucrose; polyethylene glycol fatty acid esters; the (C6 to C2 ₄₎ alkylpolyglycosides; N- (C6-24 alkyl) glucamine derivatives; amine oxides such as (C 1 -C ₄ alkyl) amine oxides or N- (C ₁₀ -C ₄ acyl) aminopropylmorpholine oxides; their mixtures. Among the nonionic surfactants mentioned above, are preferably used the (C6 to C2 ₄₎ polyglycosides.

According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the washing base contains at least one anionic surfactant and at least one amphoteric or nonionic surfactant.

The total amount of surfactant is generally in the range from 0.01% to 50% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 25% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. In particular, when the composition for treating the desquamative states of the hair and / or scalp of the invention is in the form of a shampoo, the total amount of surfactants (or washing base) is in particular chosen from 4% to 50% by weight, for example 8% to 25% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

The composition for the treatment of the desquamative states of the hair and / or the scalp according to the invention may, in addition, contain at least one additional ingredient conventionally used in the fields under consideration and chosen from principles cosmetic active agents having a beneficial effect on the hair and / or the scalp such as zinc salts of organic acid (acetate, glycolate, lactate, gluconate or citrate) or mineral (chloride and sulphate), vitamins (E, C , B2, B5, F), UV filters, anti-radical agents, preservatives, ceramides, plant extracts and formulation additives such as anionic, nonionic, cationic or amphoteric film-forming polymers, polymeric thickeners of aqueous phase or oily phase, nonpolymeric thickeners of aqueous phase such as hydroxylated or nonhydroxylated fatty acid salts or amides, pearlescent agents, opacifying agents, dyes soluble in the medium, pigments, fillers perfumes, oils of mineral, vegetable and / or synthetic origin, esters of acids and / or fatty alcohols, waxes, pH stabilizing agents such as acids, bases, salts, organic solvents silicones, electrolytes, and mixtures thereof. The amounts of the various additional ingredients of the composition according to the invention are those generally used in the fields in question and are in particular in the range of 0.001 to 20% of the total weight of the composition. In addition, this composition is prepared according to the usual methods.

Of course, those skilled in the art will take care to choose the possible additional ingredients and / or their quantity in such a way that the advantageous properties of the combination of at least one bacteriocin and at least one prebiotic according to the invention, namely the activity vis-à-vis the desquamative states of the hair and / or the scalp is not or substantially not, impaired by the addition envisaged.

Advantageously, the pH of the composition for treating the desquamative states of the hair and / or scalp of the present invention is chosen in the range from 2 to 1 1 and preferably from 3 to 10, for example from 5 to 8. According to yet another aspect, the composition for the treatment of desquamative conditions of the hair and / or scalp comprises at least one other active against the desquamative states of the scalp. The other agents for combating the desquamative states of the scalp are preferably chosen from pyridinethione salts such as zinc pyrithione, 1-hydroxy-2-pyrrolidone derivatives such as piroctone and piroctone olamine; selenium sulfides such as selenium disulfide; climbazole, undecylenic acid; ketoconazole, cyclopirox or their mixtures. In practice, the additional active agent or the mixture of additional active agents may represent from 0.001% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition and preferably from 0.1 to 5% by weight. According to yet another aspect, the subject of the invention is a method of cosmetic treatment of the scalp for combating the desquamative states of the scalp, characterized in that a composition is applied to the hair and / or the scalp. for the treatment of desquamative conditions of the hair and / or scalp as defined above.

The subject of the invention is also a process for the cosmetic treatment of the hair and / or the scalp, for combating dandruff or seborrheic dermatitis, characterized in that a composition is applied to the hair and / or the scalp. as described above.

The method of cosmetic treatment of the desquamative states of the hair and / or scalp according to the invention is particularly suitable when said desquamative states of the scalp are induced by the yeast of the genus Malassezia spp., In particular M. furfur.

Those skilled in the art can adapt the intensity of the desired effects by selecting the most active bacteriocins against one or more germs responsible for the effects mentioned above. Similarly, the skilled person can adapt the desired effects by selecting the prebiotics best metabolized by the beneficial flora of the skin, hair or scalp.

The following examples serve to illustrate the present invention. The amounts are given as a percentage by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. The compounds are, as the case may be, listed in chemical names or CTFA names (International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook).

EXAMPLES

Example 1: Moisturizing care milk

The following formula is prepared:

Nisin 0.01 g

Actilight® 0.1 g

Stearyl alcohol 5.1 g

Glyceryl stearate 1, 5g

Dimethicone 2.0g

Vaseline 4.0g

Vaseline oil 1 1 g

10 PEG-100 stearate 1, 5g

Glycerin 8,0g

Demineralized water qs 100g This milk is suitable for people with sensitive skin and can be used for a daily application on the body, for a moisturizing and protective effect.

EXAMPLE 2 Anti-Acne Cream (Oil / Water Emulsion) Epidermidine 1 g

Solabia Bioecolia® of 3 g

Polyacryloyldimethyltaurate ammonium 0.40 g

0.20 g xanthan gum

Preservatives 0.80 g

Disodium EDTA 0.05 g

Glycerol 5.00 g

Cetearyl Alcohol Blend / Dimyristyl Tartrate / C12-15 Pareth-7 / PPG-25-Laureth-25 1, 50 g Stearyl alcohol 1, 00 g

Mixture of glyceryl stearate / PEG-100 stearate 2.00 g

Cyclohexasiloxane 10.00 g

Ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate 1.00 g

Perfume 0.01 g

Demineralized water qs 100g

This sweet and fresh cream helps fight against acne problems with good efficiency.

Example 3 Dandruff Spray

A composition containing

- Nisin 0.5 g

- Bioecolia® Solabia 1, 5 g

1 g of AQ 38S (Eastman Chemicals)

- Water qs 65 g

This composition is introduced into an aerosol can. Pressurized by introducing under pressure 35 g of dimethyl ether. The spray is applied on the scalp.

Example 4 Emulsions for Roll-on

Ingredients (INCI name) Roll-on Roll-on

Emulsion DEO Emulsion AT

ALUMINUM CHLOROHYDRATE

0 30

CHLORHYDROL 50 (SUMIT REHEIS)

EXPANSED MILLED PERLITE 6.5 1

(OPTIMAT 1430 OR - Word Minerals)

Pediocin PA-1 0, 1 0, 1

Actilight -Beghin Meiji 0, 1 0, 1

POLY DIMETHYLSILOXANE

(VISCOSITY: 350 CST)

0.5 0.5

(Dow Corning 200 Fluid 350 CST - Dow Corning)

CETEARYL ALCOHOL 2,5 2,5

CETEARETH-33 1, 25 1, 25 PPG-15 STEARYL ETHER 3 3 (ARLAMOL E Croda)

PERMUTE WATER qs 100 qs 100

Deodorant efficiency is noted after one day of use.

EXAMPLE 5 Composition for Anhydrous Deodorant Aerosol

The formula is pressurized with isobutane.

Deodorant efficiency is noted after one day of use.

Example 5 Anhydrous Antiperspirant Aerosol

INCI name Commercial reference Quantities in% by weight

ALUMINUM

5.25

CHLOROHYDRATE REACH 103 (SUMIT REHEIS)

STEARALKON IUM TIXOGEL MP 250 (rockwood

0.39

BENTONITE additives)

Nisin Nisaplin (Danisco) 0, 1

Raftilose® Orafti 1

ISOPROPYL PALMITATE ISOPROPYL PALMITATE (Cognis) 0.9

ISOBUTANE ISOBUTANO (Repsol) 85

DOW CORNING 245 FLUID (Dow

CYCLOPENTASILOXANE QSP

corning)

CYCLOPENTASILOXANE DOW CORNING 1501 FLUID (dow

1, 35

(and) DIMETHICONOL corning)

CITROFLEX 2

TRIETHYL CITRATE (Vertellus) 1, 05 The formula is pressurized with isobutane.

Deodorant efficiency is noted after one day of use.

Example 6 Deodorant Anhydrous Stick

Example 7: Evaluation of the Efficacy of Bacteriocins

The inhibitory action of the plantaricin A, plantaricin C19 and plantaricin 149 peptides was evaluated on the growth of C. xerosis germs (CIP 100653 - the main germ responsible for unpleasant body odors) and S. epidermidis (ATCC 155 commensal beneficial bacterium found in the microbial flora of the skin). The action of plantaricin 149 has also been tested on P. acnes germ (CIP 531 17 - germ found in people whose skin has a tendency to fat or hyperseborrheic and responsible for the development of acne). The peptides were at a concentration of 100 mg / L in DMSO.

The test is based on the detection of the activity in solid medium and the confirmation of this activity in a liquid medium. The experiments on C. xerosis were carried out at 26 ° C, a pre-study having shown that this strain forms aggregates at 35 ° C,

Specifically, each strain tested covered the agar of a culture dish in a solid medium. Wells were made in the agar and the products to be tested were deposited in these wells. The products tested are the peptides mentioned above, at a concentration of 100 mg / L in DMSO, Irgasan 200 mg / L used as a positive control (also called Triclosan, this molecule is a recognized bactericide used especially in the treatment of bad smells), and water or DMSO as a negative control. These solid cultures made it possible to show the safety of the solvents and the effectiveness of the positive control on all the germs tested.

The bacteriocins tested all showed an inhibitory effect on the growth of C. xerosis (16, 22 and 46 hours growth retardation for plantaricin A, plantaricin C19 and plantaricin 149, respectively). However, none of the plantaricins tested has an inhibitory effect on the growth of the beneficial S. epidermidis strain.

Plantaricin 149 has an inhibitory effect on the growth of P. acnes.

The effect of the peptides on the growth of these different strains was also evaluated from a quantitative point of view in a liquid medium.

The action of plantaricin A, plantaricin C19 and plantaricin 149 against C. xerosis and their safety on S. epidermidis was confirmed in a liquid medium.

Tests in liquid medium also showed that plantaricin 149 also has a strong inhibitory effect on the growth of P. acnes (observation of a 19h growth retardation in the presence of the peptide).

Claims

1. Cosmetic and / or dermatological composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, the combination of at least one bacteriocin and at least one prebiotic, the prebiotic being an oligosaccharide and / or polysaccharide consisting of 2 to 100 sugar units produced from glucose, galactose, xylose, maltose, sucrose, lactose, starch, xylan, hemicellulose, inulin, gums, especially from acacia gum, or a mixture thereof.

2. Composition according to claim 1, characterized in that the bacteriocin is a bacteriocin class I, II or III.

3. Composition according to claim 2, characterized in that the class I bacteriocin is selected from the group consisting of nisin A, epidermin, salivaricin, plantaricin C and gallidermine.

4. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that the prebiotic is selected from the group consisting of inulin, a fructo-oligosaccharide, a gluco-oligosaccharide, oligosaccharides from soybean, pyrodextrins, an isomaltooligosaccharide, a xylooligosaccharide, a transgalactooligosaccharide and mixtures thereof.

5. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that the prebiotic is inulin, a fructo-oligosaccharide, a gluco-oligosaccharide, an isomaltooligosaccharide, a xylooligosaccharide, a mixture of inulin and glucose. oligosaccharide or a mixture of gluco-oligosaccharide, fructooligosaccharide and probiotics.

6. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5, characterized in that the bacteriocin is a plantaricin class II, in particular plantaricin A, plantaricin C19 or plantaricin 149.

7. Composition according to claim 1, characterized in that the bacteriocin is selected from the group consisting of nisin A and epidermin, and in that the prebiotic is a gluco-oligosaccharide.

8. Composition according to claim 1, characterized in that the bacteriocin is selected from the group consisting of nisin A and epidermin, and in that the prebiotic is a fructo-oligosaccharide.

9. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 8, said composition being a composition for care and / or cleaning the skin.

10. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 8, said composition being a deodorant composition.

1 1. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 8, said composition being an anti-dandruff composition.

12. Cosmetic process for caring for and / or cleaning the skin, comprising the application to keratin materials of a composition according to any one of claims 1 to 9.

13. The method of claim 12, for the care and / or cleansing of oily skin, especially oily or acne-prone skin.

14. The method of claim 12 for the care of sensitive skin.

The method of any one of claims 12 to 14, the composition comprising plantaricin 149 as a bacteriocin and / or a fructooligosaccharide as a prebiotic.

16. Cosmetic process for treating body odors, in particular axillary odors or foot odor, which consists in applying to the keratin materials a composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 8 and 10.

17. The method of claim 16, the composition comprising:

a class II plantaricin as a bacteriocin, more particularly a class II plantaricin chosen from plantaricin A, plantaricin C19 and plantaricin 149; and or

a prebiotic chosen from a xylooligosaccharide and an isomalto-oligosaccharide.

18. Process for the cosmetic treatment of the hair and / or the scalp, in particular for combating dandruff or seborrheic dermatitis, characterized in that a composition according to any one of the compositions of the present invention is applied to the hair and / or the scalp. Claims 1 to 8 and 1 1.

19. Plantaricin Class II, in particular plantaricin 149, for use in the preventive and / or curative treatment of skin disorders related to P. acnes, in particular acne.

20. Cosmetic and / or dermatological composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, plantaricin 149.

21. A composition, in particular a dermatological composition, comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, a class II plantaricin, in particular plantaricin 149, for use in the preventive and / or curative treatment of P. acnes-related cutaneous disorders, in particular in the treatment of acne.

22. A composition according to claim 20 or 21, characterized in that it further comprises an additional asset for the care of oily skin selected from desquamating agents, antimicrobial agents, soothing agents, anti-inflammatory agents, agents sebum-regulators, antioxidants, healing agents, astringent agents, and mixtures thereof.

23. A cosmetic process for the care and / or cleaning of the skin, in particular of oily skin, comprising the topical application on said skin of a composition comprising in a physiologically acceptable medium, a plantaricin class II, in particular plantaricin 149.