WO2011047982A2 - Use of adenosine and/or of one of its derivatives as agent for the treatment of human perspiration - Google Patents

Use of adenosine and/or of one of its derivatives as agent for the treatment of human perspiration Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2011047982A2
WO2011047982A2 PCT/EP2010/065183 EP2010065183W WO2011047982A2 WO 2011047982 A2 WO2011047982 A2 WO 2011047982A2 EP 2010065183 W EP2010065183 W EP 2010065183W WO 2011047982 A2 WO2011047982 A2 WO 2011047982A2
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unsaturated
saturated
formula
salts
compound
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PCT/EP2010/065183
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French (fr)
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WO2011047982A3 (en
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Maria Dalko
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L'oreal
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Publication of WO2011047982A3 publication Critical patent/WO2011047982A3/en

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    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/60Sugars; Derivatives thereof
    • A61K8/606Nucleosides; Nucleotides; Nucleic acids
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/04Dispersions; Emulsions
    • A61K8/046Aerosols; Foams
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q15/00Anti-perspirants or body deodorants

Definitions

  • the invention thus relates to the use, as agent for the treatment of human perspiration, in a cosmetic composition, of adenosine and/or one of its derivatives of formula (I) which will be defined later.
  • the invention also relates to a cosmetic method for treating human perspiration and optionally the body odours related to human perspiration, in particular axillary odours.
  • aluminium and/or zirconium salts in topical application as antiperspirants , which salts have the effect of limiting, indeed even suppressing, the flow of sweat.
  • These products are generally available in the roll-on, stick, aerosol or spray form.
  • Metal salts of this type are effective as antiperspirant active principle but some people find that the application of such products results in skin irritation. Furthermore, the aluminium salts block a portion of the sweat by the formation of a partial plug in the sweat duct and give the consumer the impression of an unnatural control of the perspiration. Furthermore, they also have a tendency to leave marks on clothing.
  • the invention thus relates to the use, as agent for the treatment of human perspiration, in a cosmetic composition, of adenosine and/or one of its derivatives of formula (I) which will be defined later.
  • Another subject-matter of the present invention is a cosmetic method for the treatment of human perspiration and optionally of body odours, in particular axillary odours, which consists in applying, to the surface of the skin, a composition comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable medium, at least adenosine and/or one of its derivatives of formula (I) which will be defined later and their salts, optical isomers and solvates .
  • cosmetically acceptable is understood to mean compatible with the skin and/or its superficial body growths, exhibiting a pleasant colour, a pleasant odour and a pleasant feel, and not causing unacceptable discomfort (smarting, tightness, redness) liable to dissuade the consumer from using this composition.
  • agent for the treatment of perspiration is understood to mean any substance which has the effect of reducing the flow of sweat and/or of reducing the feeling of dampness related to human sweat and/or of masking human sweat.
  • Adenosine (CAS: 58-61-7) has the structure:
  • adenosine derivatives in accordance with the invention correspond to the following formula (I) :
  • Ri and R2 denote a hydrogen or a saturated C 1 -C6 or unsaturated C2-C6 linear or saturated or unsaturated C3-C6 branched hydrocarbon radical or together form, with the oxygen atoms to which they are attached, an isopropylidene radical, and
  • R 3 denotes:
  • a -COR 4 group with R 4 denoting a saturated C 1 -C9 or unsaturated C2-C9 linear or saturated or unsaturated C3-C9 branched hydrocarbon radical optionally substituted by at least one group chosen from -OR' , -NR'R", -COOR' , -CONR'R", -CF 3 , -F, -OCF 3 , -CN or -N0 2 ; or
  • Ri and R2 together form, with the oxygen atoms to which they are attached, an isopropylidene radical and R3 denotes a saturated C 1 -C 1 0 or unsaturated C2-C 1 0 linear or saturated or unsaturated C3-C 10 branched hydrocarbon radical optionally substituted by at least one group chosen from -OR' , -NR'R", -COOR' , -CONR'R", -CF 3 , -F, -OCF3, -CN or -NO2;
  • R' and R" denoting a hydrogen atom or a saturated C 1 -C6 or unsaturated C2-C6 linear or saturated or unsaturated C 3 -C6 branched hydrocarbon radical optionally substituted by at least one group chosen from -OZ, -NZZ' or -COOZ, Z and Z' denoting, independently of one another, a hydrogen atom or a saturated C 1 -C6 or unsaturated C 3 -C6 linear or saturated or unsaturated C2-C6 branched hydrocarbon radical;
  • the hydrocarbon (or alkyl) groups can be chosen in particular, as the case may be, from the methyl, ethyl, n-propyl, isopropyl, n-butyl, isobutyl, tert-butyl, pentyl, hexyl, heptyl, octyl, nonyl or decyl groups .
  • Preferred Ri and ]3 ⁇ 4 radicals in the formula (I) described above are those together forming, with the oxygen atoms to which they are attached, an isopropylidene radical.
  • R 2 denote hydrogen or together form, with the oxygen atoms to which they are attached, an isopropylidene radical
  • R 2 denote hydrogen or together form, with the oxygen atoms to which they are attached, an isopropylidene radical
  • Ri and R 2 denote hydrogen or together form, with the oxygen atoms to which they are attached, an isopropylidene radical
  • R3 denotes a -COR 4 group, with R 4 denoting a linear C 1 -C9 hydrocarbon radical, or an ester group resulting from biotin.
  • an inorganic acid chosen in particular from hydrochloric acid, sulphuric acid and phosphoric acid
  • an organic acid chosen in particular from acetic acid, propionic acid, succinic acid, fumaric acid, lactic acid, glycolic acid, citric acid and tartaric acid.
  • (I) are chosen from the salts obtained from hydrochloric acid or acetic acid or citric acid.
  • adenosine and/or one of its derivatives in an amount representing from 0.01% to 10% of the total weight of the composition, preferably in an amount representing from 0.05% to 5% of the total weight of the composition, more preferably in an amount representing from 0.1% to 2% of the total weight of the composition .
  • composition according to the invention can be provided in all the formulation forms conventionally used for a topical application and in particular in the form of aqueous gels or of aqueous or aqueous/alcoholic solutions. They can also, by addition of a fatty or oily phase, be provided in the form of dispersions of the lotion type, of emulsions with a liquid or semiliquid consistency of the milk type, obtained by dispersion of a fatty phase in an aqueous phase (O/W) or vice versa (W/O), or of suspensions or emulsions with a soft, semisolid or solid consistency of the cream or gel type, or also of multiple (W/O/W or 0/W/O) emulsions, of microemulsions , of vesicular dispersions of ionic and/or nonionic type, or of wax/aqueous phase dispersions. These compositions are prepared according to the normal methods .
  • compositions of the invention can be packaged in pressurized form in an aerosol device or in a pump- action spray, packaged in a device equipped with an openwork wall, in particular a grating, or packaged in a device equipped with a ball applicator (roll-on) .
  • they comprise the ingredients generally used in products of this type which are well known to a person skilled in the art.
  • compositions according to the invention can be anhydrous .
  • Anhydrous composition is understood to mean a composition comprising less than 2% by weight of water, indeed even less than 0.5% by weight of water, and in particular devoid of water, the water not being added during the preparation of the composition but corresponding to the residual water contributed by the mixed ingredients.
  • antiperspirant compositions according to the invention can also be provided in the form of sticks.
  • compositions for treating perspiration according to the invention can also be provided in the form of a loose or compact powder.
  • compositions according to the invention intended for cosmetic use can comprise at least one aqueous phase.
  • They are in particular formulated as aqueous lotions, as a water-in-oil or oil-in-water emulsion or as a multiple emulsion (oil-in-water-in-oil or water-in-oil-in-water triple emulsion) (such emulsions are known and described, for example, by C. Fox in "Cosmetics and Toiletries", November 1986, Vol. 101, pages 101-112).
  • the aqueous phase of the said compositions comprises water and generally other solvents which are soluble or miscible in water.
  • the solvents which are soluble or miscible in water comprise short-chain, for example C1-C4, monoalcohols , such as ethanol or isopropanol ; or diols or polyols, such as ethylene glycol, 1 , 2-propylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, diethylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, 2-ethoxyethanol, diethylene glycol monomethyl ether, triethylene glycol monomethyl ether and sorbitol.
  • Use will more particularly be made of propylene glycol and glycerol, 1,3 propanediol.
  • emulsifiers which can be used in oil-in-water emulsions or oil-in-water-in-oil triple emulsions, for example, of nonionic emulsifiers, such as oxyalkylenated (more particularly polyoxyethylenated) esters of fatty acids and of glycerol; oxyalkylenated esters of fatty acids and of sorbitan; oxyalkylenated (oxyethylenated and/or oxypropylenated) esters of fatty acids; oxyalkylenated (oxyethylenated and/or oxypropylenated) ethers of fatty alcohols; sugar esters, such as sucrose stearate; and their mixtures, such as the mixture of glyceryl stearate and of PEG-40 stearate.
  • nonionic emulsifiers such as oxyalkylenated (more particularly polyoxyethylenated) esters of
  • fatty alcohol/alkylpolyglycoside emulsifying mixtures such as are described in Applications WO 92/06778, WO 95/13863 and WO 98/47610, for example the commercial products sold by SEPPIC under the MONTANOV® names.
  • fatty alcohol/alkylpolyglycoside emulsifying mixtures such as are described in Applications WO 92/06778, WO 95/13863 and WO 98/47610, for example the commercial products sold by SEPPIC under the MONTANOV® names.
  • Water-in-oil emulsifiers such as are described in Applications WO 92/06778, WO 95/13863 and WO 98/47610, for example the commercial products sold by SEPPIC under the MONTANOV® names.
  • emulsifiers which can be used in water-in-oil emulsions or water-in-oil- in-water-in-oil triple emulsions or triple emulsions, by way of example, of alkyl dimethicone copolyols corresponding to the following formula (I) :
  • Ri denotes a linear or branched C 1 2-C20 and preferably
  • R 2 denotes the group : --C n H 2n -- ( -OC 2 H 4 - ) x -- ( -OC 3 H 6 - ) y --0-R 3 ;
  • R3 denotes a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched alkyl radical comprising from 1 to 12 carbon atoms;
  • a is an integer ranging from 1 to approximately 500;
  • b denotes an integer ranging from 1 to approximately 500;
  • n is an integer ranging from 2 to 12 and preferably from 2 to 5;
  • x denotes an integer ranging from 1 to approximately 50 and preferably from 1 to 30;
  • y denotes an integer ranging from 0 to approximately 49 and preferably from 0 to 29, with the proviso that, when y is other than zero, the ratio x/y is greater than 1 and preferably varies from 2 to 11.
  • R 4 denotes the group : --C m H 2m -- ( -OC 2 H 4 - ) s -- ( -OC 3 H 6 - ) t __ 0—R 5 ;
  • R5 denotes a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched alkyl radical comprising from 1 to 12 carbon atoms;
  • c is an integer ranging from 1 to approximately 500
  • d denotes an integer ranging from 1 to approximately 500
  • n is an integer ranging from 2 to 12 and preferably from 2 to 5;
  • s denotes an integer ranging from 1 to approximately 50 and preferably from 1 to 30;
  • t denotes an integer ranging from 0 to approximately 50 and preferably from 0 to 30;
  • Use will more particularly be made of a mixture of PEG-18/PPG-18 Dimethicone and Cetyl PEG/PPG-10/1 Dimethicone and more particularly still of a mixture of Cyclopentasiloxane (and) PEG-18/PPG-18 Dimethicone and of Cetyl PEG/PPG-10/1 Dimethicone and Dimethicone or of Polyglyceryl-4 Stearate and Cetyl PEG/PPG-10 (and) Dimethicone (and) Hexyl Laurate.
  • APG alkylpolyglycosides
  • nonionic emulsifiers derived from fatty acid and from polyol of esters of fatty acid and of polyol, the fatty acid having in particular a C8-C24 alkyl chain and the polyols being, for example, glycerol and sorbitan.
  • esters of fatty acid and of polyol Mention may in particular be made, as esters of fatty acid and of polyol, of esters of isostearic acid and of polyols, esters of stearic acid and of polyols, and their mixtures, in particular the esters of isostearic acid and of glycerol and/or of sorbitan.
  • esters of stearic acid and of polyols of the polyethylene glycol esters, such as PEG-30 Dipolyhydroxystearate, such as the product sold under the name Arlacel P135 by ICI.
  • esters of glycerol and/or of sorbitan for example of polyglycerol isostearate, such as the product sold under the name Isolan GI 34 by Goldschmidt ; sorbitan isostearate, such as the product sold under the name Arlacel 987 by ICI; sorbitan isostearate and glycerol, such as the product sold under the name Arlacel 986 by ICI; the mixture of sorbitan isostearate and of polyglycerol (3 mol) isostearate sold under the name Arlacel 1690 by Uniqema; and their mixtures.
  • polyglycerol isostearate such as the product sold under the name Isolan GI 34 by Goldschmidt
  • sorbitan isostearate such as the product sold under the name Arlacel 987 by ICI
  • sorbitan isostearate and glycerol such as the product sold under the name Arlacel 986 by ICI
  • the emulsifier can also be chosen from alkylpolyglycosides having an HLB of less than 7, for example those represented by the following general formula ( 1 ) :
  • R represents a branched and/or unsaturated alkyl radical comprising from 14 to 24 carbon atoms
  • G represents a reduced sugar comprising from 5 to 6 carbon atoms and x denotes a value ranging from 1 to 10 and preferably from 1 to 4, and G denotes in particular a glucose, fructose or galactose.
  • the unsaturated alkyl radical can comprise one or more ethylenic unsaturations and in particular one or two ethylenic unsaturations.
  • This alkylpolyglucoside can be used as a mixture with a coemulsifier, more especially with a fatty alcohol and in particular a fatty alcohol having the same fatty chain as that of the alkylpolyglucoside, that is to say comprising from 14 to 24 carbon atoms and having a branched and/or unsaturated chain, for example isostearyl alcohol when the alkylpolyglucoside is isostearyl glucoside and oleyl alcohol when the alkylpolyglucoside is oleyl glucoside, optionally in the form of a self-emulsifying composition, such as described, for example, in the document WO-A-92/06778.
  • Use may be made, for example, of the isostearyl glucoside and isostearyl alcohol mixture sold under the name Montanov WO 18 by SEPPIC and the octyldodecanol and octyldodecyl xyloside mixture sold under the name Fludanov 20X by SEPPIC.
  • polyolefins comprising a succinic ending such as polyisobutylenes comprising an esterified succinic ending and their salts, in particular the diethanolamine salts, such as the products sold under the names Lubrizol 2724, Lubrizol 2722 and Lubrizol 5603 by Lubrizol or the commercial product Chemcinnate 2000.
  • the total amount of emulsifiers in the composition will preferably be in the composition according to the invention at active material contents ranging from 1 to 8% by weight and more particularly from 2 to 6% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the composition .
  • compositions according to the invention can comprise at least one water-immiscible liquid organic phase.
  • the latter generally comprises one or more hydrophobic compounds which render the said phase immiscible in water.
  • the said phase is liquid (in the absence of structuring agent) at ambient temperature (20-25°C).
  • the water-immiscible liquid organic phase in accordance with the invention generally comprises at least one volatile oil and/or one nonvolatile oil and optionally at least one structuring agent.
  • Oil is understood to mean a fatty substance which is liquid at ambient temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg, i.e. 105 Pa) .
  • the oil can be volatile or nonvolatile.
  • Volatile oil is understood to mean, within the meaning of the invention, an oil capable of evaporating on contact with the skin or keratinous fibre in less than one hour, at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure.
  • the volatile oils of the invention are volatile cosmetic oils which are liquid at ambient temperature and which have a nonzero vapour pressure, at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure, ranging in particular from 0.13 Pa to 40 000 Pa (10 ⁇ 3 to 300 mmHg), in particular ranging from 1.3 Pa to 13 000 Pa (0.01 to 100 mmHg), and more particularly ranging from 1.3 Pa to 1300 Pa (0.01 to 10 mmHg) .
  • Nonvolatile oil is understood to mean an oil which remains on the skin or keratinous fibre, at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure, for at least several hours and which has in particular a vapour pressure of less than 10 ⁇ 3 mmHg (0.13 Pa) .
  • the oil can be chosen from any physiologically acceptable and in particular cosmetically acceptable oil, especially mineral, animal, vegetable or synthetic oils, in particular volatile or nonvolatile hydrocarbon and/or silicone and/or fluorinated oils and their mixtures .
  • hydrocarbon oil is understood to mean an oil comprising mainly carbon and hydrogen atoms and optionally one or more functional groups chosen from hydroxyl, ester, ether or carboxyl functional groups.
  • the oil exhibits a viscosity of 0.5 to 100 000 mPa-s, preferably of 50 to 50 000 mPa-s and more preferably of 100 to 300 000 mPa-s.
  • volatile hydrocarbon oils chosen from hydrocarbon oils having from 8 to 16 carbon atoms and in particular Cs-Ci 6 isoalkanes of petroleum origin (also known as isoparaffins ) , such as isododecane (also known as 2 , 2 , 4 , 4 , 6-pentamethylheptane) , isodecane, isohexadecane and, for example, the oils sold under the Isopar or Permethyl trade names, branched Cs-Ci 6 esters, isohexyl neopentanoate and their mixtures.
  • Cs-Ci 6 isoalkanes of petroleum origin also known as isoparaffins
  • isododecane also known as 2 , 2 , 4 , 4 , 6-pentamethylheptane
  • isodecane isohexadecane
  • the oils sold under the Isopar or Permethyl trade names branched Cs-Ci 6 esters, iso
  • volatile hydrocarbon oils such as petroleum distillates, in particular those sold under the name Shell Solt by Shell, can also be used; volatile linear alkanes, such as those described in the Cognis patent application WO 2007/068371, in particular those obtained from fatty alcohols, themselves obtained from coconut or palm oil.
  • volatile silicones such as, for example, volatile linear or cyclic silicone oils, in particular those having a viscosity ⁇ 8 centistokes (8 ⁇ 10 ⁇ 6 m 2 /s) and having in particular from 2 to 7 silicon atoms, these silicones optionally comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms.
  • volatile silicone oil which can be used in the invention, of octamethyl- cyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, heptamethylhexyl- trisiloxane, heptamethyloctyltrisiloxane, hexamethyl- disiloxane, octamethyltrisiloxane, decamethyl- tetrasiloxane or dodecamethylpentasiloxane, and
  • R represents an alkyl group comprising from 2 to 4 carbon atoms, one or more hydrogen atoms of which can be replaced by a fluorine or chlorine atom.
  • nonvolatile oil which can be used in the invention, of:
  • hydrocarbon oils of animal origin such as perhydrosqualene
  • - vegetable hydrocarbon oils such as liquid triglycerides of fatty acids having from 4 to 24 carbon atoms, such as triglycerides of heptanoic or octanoic acids or also wheat germ, olive, sweet almond, palm, rapeseed, cottonseed, alfalfa, poppy, pumpkinseed, cucumber, blackcurrant seed, evening primrose, millet, barley, quinoa, rye, safflower, candlenut, passionflower, musk rose, sunflower, maize, soybean, grape seed, sesame, hazelnut, apricot, macadamia, castor or avocado oils, triglycerides of caprylic/capric acids, such as those sold by Stearineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol 810, 812 and 818 by Dynamit Nobel, jojoba oil or shea butter;
  • hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin such as liquid paraffins and their derivatives, liquid petrolatum, polydecenes, polybutenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene, such as Parleam, or squalane;
  • esters in particular of fatty acids, such as oils of formula R1COOR2 in which Ri represents the residue of a linear or branched higher fatty acid comprising from 1 to 40 carbon atoms and R2 represents a hydrocarbon chain, in particular a branched hydrocarbon chain, comprising from 1 to 40 carbon atoms with R x + R 2 ⁇ 10, such as, for example, Purcellin oil (cetearyl octanoate) , isononyl isononanoate, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, C12 to C15 alkyl benzoate, hexyl laurate, diisopropyl adipate, isononyl isononanoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-octyldodecyl stearate, 2-octyldodecyl erucate, isostearyl isostearate or tridecyl trimellitate
  • - fatty alcohols which are liquid at ambient temperature and which comprise a branched and/or unsaturated carbon chain having from 12 to 26 carbon atoms, such as octyldodecanol , isostearyl alcohol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol or oleyl alcohol; - higher fatty acids, such as oleic acid, linoleic acid or linolenic acid;
  • oils which optionally comprise a hydrocarbon and/or silicone part, such as fluorosilicone oils, fluoropolyethers or fluorosilicones, such as described in the document EP-A-847752;
  • silicone oils such as nonvolatile linear or cyclic polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMSs) ; polydimethylsiloxanes comprising pendant alkyl, alkoxy or phenyl groups or alkyl, alkoxy or phenyl groups at the end of the silicone chain, which groups have from 2 to 24 carbon atoms; or phenylated silicones, such as phenyl trimethicones , phenyl dimethicones , phenyl (trimethyl- siloxy) diphenylsiloxanes , diphenyl dimethicones, diphenyl (methyldiphenyl ) trisiloxanes or (2-phenyl- ethyl ) trimethylsiloxysilicates , and
  • PDMSs nonvolatile linear or cyclic polydimethylsiloxanes
  • phenylated silicones such as phenyl trimethicones , phenyl dimethicones
  • compositions according to the invention comprising a fatty phase can additionally comprise at least one structuring agent for the said fatty phase which can preferably be chosen from waxes, pasty compounds, inorganic or organic lipophilic gelling agents and their mixtures.
  • the wax is generally a lipophilic compound which is solid at ambient temperature (25°C), which exhibits a reversible solid/liquid change in state and which has a melting point of greater than or equal to 30°C which can range up to 200°C and in particular up to 120°C.
  • the waxes suitable for the invention can exhibit a melting point of greater than or equal to 45°C and in particular of greater than or equal to 55°C.
  • the melting point corresponds to the temperature of the most endothermic peak observed by thermal analysis (DSC) as described in Standard ISO 11357-3; 1999.
  • the melting point of the wax can be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC) , for example the calorimeter sold under the name "MDSC 2920" by TA Instruments.
  • the measurement protocol is as follows:
  • a 5 mg sample of wax placed in a crucible is subjected to a first rise in temperature ranging from -20°C to 100°C at a heating rate of 10°C/minute, is then cooled from 100°C to -20°C at a cooling rate of 10°C/minute and, finally, is subjected to a second rise in temperature ranging from -20°C to 100°C at a heating rate of 5°C/minute.
  • the variation in the difference in power absorbed by the empty crucible and by the crucible comprising the sample of wax is measured as a function of the temperature.
  • the melting point of the compound is the value of the temperature corresponding to the tip of the peak of the curve representing the variation in the difference in power absorbed as a function of the temperature.
  • the waxes capable of being used in the compositions according to the invention are chosen from waxes of animal, vegetable, mineral or synthetic origin, and their mixtures, which are solid at ambient temperature .
  • waxes suitable for the invention of hydrocarbon waxes, such as beeswax, lanolin wax and Chinese insect waxes; rice bran wax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, ouricury wax, alfa wax, berry wax, shellac wax, Japan wax and sumac wax; montan wax, orange and lemon waxes, refined sunflower wax, sold under the name sunflower wax by Koster Keunen, microcrystalline waxes, paraffin waxes and ozokerite; polyethylene waxes, the waxes obtained by the Fischer- Tropsch synthesis and waxy copolymers, and their esters.
  • hydrocarbon waxes such as beeswax, lanolin wax and Chinese insect waxes
  • montan wax, orange and lemon waxes, refined sunflower wax sold under the name sunflower wax by Koster Keun
  • Mention may also be made of waxes obtained by catalytic hydrogenation of animal or vegetable oils having linear or branched C8-C 3 2 fatty chains. Mention may in particular be made, among these, of isomerized jojoba oil, such as the transisomerized partially hydrogenated jojoba oil manufactured or sold by Desert Whale under the commercial reference Iso-Joj oba-50®, hydrogenated sunflower oil, hydrogenated castor oil, hydrogenated coconut oil, hydrogenated lanolin oil and di ( 1 , 1 , 1-trimethylolpropane) tetrastearate, sold under the name of Hest 2T-4S® by Heterene.
  • isomerized jojoba oil such as the transisomerized partially hydrogenated jojoba oil manufactured or sold by Desert Whale under the commercial reference Iso-Joj oba-50®, hydrogenated sunflower oil, hydrogenated castor oil, hydrogenated coconut oil, hydrogenated lanolin oil and di ( 1 , 1 , 1-trimethylolprop
  • silicone waxes C 30 -45 alkyl dimethicone
  • fluorinated waxes C 30 -45 alkyl dimethicone
  • waxes obtained by hydrogenation of castor oil esterified with cetyl alcohol which are sold under the names of Phytowax Castor 16L64® and 22L73® by Sophim. Such waxes are described in Application FR-A-2 792 190.
  • Use may be made, as wax, of a C2o _ C 4 o alkyl (hydroxystearyloxy) stearate (the alkyl group comprising from 20 to 40 carbon atoms), alone or as a mixture.
  • Such a wax is sold in particular under the names “Kester Wax K 82 P®”, “Hydroxypolyester K 82 P®” and “Kester Wax K 80 P®” by Koster Keunen.
  • microwaxes which can be used in the compositions according to the invention, of carnauba microwaxes, such as that sold under the name of MicroCare 350® by Micro Powders, synthetic wax microwaxes, such as that sold under the name of MicroEase 114S® by Micro Powders, the microwaxes composed of a mixture of carnauba wax and of polyethylene wax, such as those sold under the names of MicroCare 300® and 310® by Micro Powders, the microwaxes composed of a mixture of carnauba wax and of synthetic wax, such as that sold under the name MicroCare 325® by Micro Powders, polyethylene microwaxes, such as those sold under the names of Micropoly 200®, 220®, 220L® and 250S® by Micro Powders, the commercial products Perfomalen 400 Polyethylene and Performalene 500-L Polyethylene from New Phase Technologies, Performalene 655 Polyethylene or paraffin waxes, such as the wax having the INCI name Microcristall
  • composition according to the invention will preferably comprise a content of wax(es) ranging from 3 to 20% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the composition, in particular from 5 to 15% by weight and more particularly from 6 to 15% by weight.
  • a content of wax(es) ranging from 3 to 20% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the composition, in particular from 5 to 15% by weight and more particularly from 6 to 15% by weight.
  • Pasty compound is understood to mean, within the meaning of the present invention, a lipophilic fatty compound which exhibits a reversible solid/liquid change in state, which exhibits an anisotropic crystalline arrangement in the solid state and which comprises, at a temperature of 23°C, a liquid fraction and a solid fraction.
  • the pasty compound is preferably chosen from synthetic compounds and compounds of vegetable origin.
  • a pasty compound can be obtained by synthesis from starting materials of vegetable origin.
  • the pasty compound can advantageously be chosen from: - lanolin and its derivatives,
  • esters of an oligomeric glycerol in particular diglycerol esters, in particular condensates of adipic acid and of glycerol, for which a portion of the hydroxyl groups of the glycerols have reacted with a mixture of fatty acids, such as stearic acid, capric acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid and 12-hydroxy- stearic acid, such as in particular those sold under the Softisan 649 brand by Sasol,
  • the choice will preferably be made, among pasty compounds of vegetable origin, of a mixture of soybean sterols and of oxyethylenated (5 EO) /oxypropylenated (5 PO) pentaerythritol sold under the reference Lanolide by Vevy.
  • inorganic lipophilic gelling agent of optionally modified clays, such as hectorites modified by a Cio to C22 ammonium chloride, such as hectorite modified by distearyldimethylammonium chloride, such as, for example, that sold under the name Bentone 38V® by Elementis.
  • optionally modified clays such as hectorites modified by a Cio to C22 ammonium chloride, such as hectorite modified by distearyldimethylammonium chloride, such as, for example, that sold under the name Bentone 38V® by Elementis.
  • pyrogenic silica optionally hydrophobically treated at the surface, the size of the particles of which is less than 1 ym. This is because it is possible to chemically modify the surface of the silica by chemical reaction which results in a decrease in the number of silanol groups present at the surface of the silica.
  • Silanol groups can in particular be replaced by hydrophobic groups: a hydrophobic silica is then obtained.
  • the hydrophobic groups can be trimethylsiloxyl groups, which are obtained in particular by treatment of pyrogenic silica in the presence of hexamethyldisilazane .
  • Silicas thus treated are named "Silica silylate" according to the CTFA (8th edition, 2000) .
  • Silicas thus treated are named "Silica dimethyl silylate” according to the CTFA (8th edition, 2000) . They are, for example, sold under the references Aerosil R972® and Aerosil R974® by Degussa and Cab-O-Sil TS-610® and Cab-O-Sil TS-720® by Cabot.
  • the hydrophobic pyrogenic silica exhibits in particular a particle size which can be from nanometric to micrometric, for example ranging approximately from 5 to 200 nm.
  • the polymeric organic lipophilic gelling agents are, for example, partially or completely crosslinked organopolysiloxane elastomers with a three-dimensional structure, such as those sold under the names of KSG6®, KSG16® and KSG18® by Shin-Etsu, of Trefil E-505C® and Trefil E-506C® by Dow Corning, of Gransil SR-CYC®, SR DMF10®, SR-DC556®, SR 5CYC gel®, SR DMF 10 gel® and SR DC 556 gel® by Grant Industries and of SF 1204® and JK 113® by General Electric; ethylcellulose, such as that sold under the name Ethocel® by Dow Chemical; galactomannans comprising from one to six and in particular from two to four hydroxyl groups per monosaccharide and substituted by a saturated or unsaturated alkyl chain, such as guar gum alkylated by Ci to C6 and in particular Ci to C3 alkyl
  • lipophilic gelling agent of polymers with a weight-average molecular weight of less than 100 000 comprising a) a polymer backbone having hydrocarbon repeat units provided with at least one heteroatom and optionally b) at least one optionally functionalized pendant fatty chain and/or at least one optionally functionalized terminal fatty chain having from 6 to 120 carbon atoms and being bonded to these hydrocarbon units, such as described in Applications WO-A-02/056847, WO-A-02/47619, the contents of which are incorporated by way of reference, in particular polyamide resins (especially comprising alkyl groups having from 12 to 22 carbon atoms) , such as those described in US-A-5783657, the content of which is incorporated by way of reference.
  • lipophilic gelling agents which can be used in the compositions according to the invention, of esters of dextrin and of fatty acid, such as dextrin palmitates, in particular such as those sold under the names Rheopearl TL® and Rheopearl KL® by Chiba Flour.
  • silicone polyamides of the polyorganosiloxane type such as those described in the documents US-A-5 874 069, US-A-5 919 441, US-A- 6 051 216 and US-A-5 981 680.
  • silicone polymers can belong to the following two families:
  • polyorganosiloxanes comprising at least two groups capable of establishing hydrogen bond interactions, these two groups being situated on grafts or branchings .
  • compositions according to the invention can additionally comprise one or more aluminium and/or zirconium salts or complexes.
  • the antiperspirant salts or complexes in accordance with the invention are generally chosen from aluminium and/or zirconium salts or complexes. They are preferably chosen from aluminium hydrohalides; aluminium zirconium hydrohalides, or complexes of zirconium hydroxychloride and of aluminium hydroxychloride, with or without an amino acid, such as those described in Patent US-3 792 068.
  • aluminium salts of aluminium chlorohydrate in the activated or nonactivated form
  • aluminium chlorohydrex the aluminium chlorohydrex polyethylene glycol complex
  • aluminium chlorohydrex propylene glycol complex aluminium dichlorohydrate
  • aluminium dichlorohydrex polyethylene glycol complex the aluminium dichlorohydrex propylene glycol complex
  • aluminium sesquichlorohydrate aluminium sesquichlorohydrex polyethylene glycol complex
  • aluminium sesquichlorohydrex propylene glycol complex aluminium sesquichlorohydrex polyethylene glycol complex
  • aluminium sesquichlorohydrex propylene glycol complex aluminium sulphate buffered with sodium aluminium lactate .
  • aluminium zirconium salts of aluminium zirconium octachloro- hydrate, aluminium zirconium pentachlorohydrate, aluminium zirconium tetrachlorohydrate or aluminium zirconium trichlorohydrate.
  • the complexes of zirconium hydroxychloride and of aluminium hydroxychloride with an amino acid are generally known under the name ZAG (when the amino acid is glycine) . Mention may be made, among these products, of the aluminium zirconium octachlorohydrex glycine, aluminium zirconium pentachlorohydrex glycine, aluminium zirconium tetrachlorohydrex glycine and aluminium zirconium trichlorohydrex glycine complexes.
  • the antiperspirant salts or complexes can be present in the composition according to the invention in a proportion of approximately 0.5 to 25% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the composition.
  • compositions according to the invention can additionally comprise one or more deodorant active principles .
  • the deodorant active principles can be bacteriostatic agents or bactericidal agents acting on the microorganisms of axillary odours, such as 2,4,4'- trichloro-2 ' -hydroxydiphenyl ether ( Triclosan) , 2,4- dichloro-2 ' -hydroxydiphenyl ether, 3' , 4' , 5' -trichlorosalicylanilide, 1- (3' , 4' -dichloro- phenyl ) -3- ( 4 ' -chlorophenyl ) urea ( Triclocarban) or 3, 7, ll-trimethyldodeca-2, 5, 10-trienol ( ® Farnesol) ; quaternary ammonium salts, such as cetyltrimethyl- ammonium salts or cetylpyridinium salts, DPTA ( 1 , 3-diaminopropanetetraacetic acid) or 1 , 2-decaned
  • - zinc salts such as zinc salicylate, zinc gluconate, zinc pidolate, zinc sulphate, zinc chloride, zinc lactate, zinc phenolsulphonate or zinc ricinoleate ;
  • spherules in particular vesicles, which may be ionic or nonionic, and/or nanoparticles (nanocapsules and/or nanospheres) .
  • the deodorant active principles can preferably be present in the compositions according to the invention in concentrations by weight ranging from 0.01 to 5% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the composition .
  • suspending agents which are preferably chosen from hydrophobic modified montmorillonite clays, such as hydrophobic modified bentonites or hectorites.
  • hydrophobic modified montmorillonite clays such as hydrophobic modified bentonites or hectorites.
  • CTFA name Stearalkonium Bentonite
  • CTFA name Disteardimonium Hectorite
  • the suspending agents are preferably present in amounts ranging from 0.1 to 5% by weight and more preferably from 0.2 to 2% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the composition.
  • the antiperspirant compositions according to the invention will additionally comprise an organic powder.
  • organic powder is understood to mean any solid which is insoluble in the medium at ambient temperature (25°C) .
  • organic powders which can be used in the composition of the invention, for example, of polyamide particles and in particular those sold under the Orgasol names by Atochem; polyethylene powders; microspheres based on acrylic copolymers, such as those made of ethylene glycol dimethacrylate/lauryl methacrylate copolymer sold by Dow Corning under the name of Polytrap; polymethyl methacrylate microspheres, sold under the name Microsphere M-100 by Matsumoto or under the name Covabead LH85 by Wackherr; hollow polymethyl methacrylate microspheres (particle size: 6.5-10.5 ym) sold under the name Ganzpearl GMP 0800 by Ganz Chemical; methyl methacrylate/ethylene glycol dimethacrylate copolymer microbeads (size: 6.5-10.5 ym) sold under the name Ganzpearl GMP 0820 by Ganz Chemical or Microsponge 5640 by Amcol Health & Beauty Solutions; ethylene/acrylate copolymer
  • the cosmetic compositions according to the invention can additionally comprise cosmetic adjuvants chosen from softeners, antioxidants, opacifiers, stabilizers, moisturizing agents, vitamins, bactericides, preservatives, polymers, fragrances, thickening agents, propellants or any other ingredient commonly used in cosmetics for this type of application.
  • cosmetic adjuvants chosen from softeners, antioxidants, opacifiers, stabilizers, moisturizing agents, vitamins, bactericides, preservatives, polymers, fragrances, thickening agents, propellants or any other ingredient commonly used in cosmetics for this type of application.
  • the thickeners preferably nonionic thickeners, can be chosen from modified or unmodified guar gums and celluloses, such as hydroxypropylated guar gum or cetylhydroxyethylcellulose, or silicas, such as, for example, Bentone Gel MIO, sold by NL Industries, or Veegum Ultra, sold by Polyplastic.
  • the thickeners can also be cationic thickeners, such as, for example, Polyquaternium-37 , sold under the name Salcare SC95 (Polyquaternium-37 (And) Mineral Oil (And) PPG-1 Trideceth-6) or Salcare SC96
  • compositions according to the invention can also be pressurized and be packaged in an aerosol device composed of:
  • the propellants generally used in products of this type are such as, for example, dimethyl ether (DME) , volatile hydrocarbons, such as n-butane, propane or isobutane, and their mixtures, optionally with at least one chlorinated and/or fluorinated hydrocarbon; mention may be made, among the latter, of the compounds sold by Dupont de Nemours under the Freon® and Dymel® names, in particular monofluorotrichloromethane, difluorodi- chloromethane, tetrafluorodichloroethane and 1,1-di- fluoroethane, sold in particular under the trade name Dymel 152 A by Dupont .
  • Use may also be made, as propellant, of carbon dioxide gas, nitrous oxide, nitrogen or compressed air.
  • compositions comprising the perlite particles as defined above and the propellant or propellants can occur in the same compartment or in different compartments in the aerosol container.
  • concentration of propellant generally varies from 5 to 95% by weight under pressure and more preferably from 50 to 85% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the pressurized composition.
  • the dispensing means which forms a part of the aerosol device, is generally composed of a dispensing valve controlled by a dispensing head, itself comprising a nozzle via which the aerosol composition is vaporized.
  • the container comprising the pressurized composition can be opaque or transparent. It can be made of glass, of polymer or of metal, optionally covered with a protective lacquer layer.
  • the cyclopentasiloxane is heated to 65°C.
  • the other ingredients are added (one by one) while remaining at 65-70°C.
  • the combined mixture is homogenized (transparent solution) for 15 minutes.
  • the perlite or the superabsorbent polymer is added.
  • the mixture is cooled to approximately 55°C (a few °C above the thickening of the mixture) and poured into the sticks. They are brought to 4°C for 30 minutes.
  • Examples 2 and 3 Aerosols
  • the Optimat® 1430 OR is dispersed in the mixture of the other starting materials using a paddle, constituting the phase A. Pressurization is carried out in an aerosol can with the isobutane.

Abstract

The invention thus relates to the use, as agent for the treatment of human perspiration in a cosmetic composition, of adenosine and/or one of its derivatives of formula (I). The invention also relates to a cosmetic method for treating human perspiration and optionally human body odours, which consists in applying, to the surface of the skin, a composition comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable medium, at least adenosine and/or one of its derivatives of formula (I) and also its salts, optical isomers and solvates as defined in any one of Claims 1 to 7.

Description

USE OF ADENOSINE AND/OR OF ONE OF ITS DERIVATIVES AS AGENT FOR THE TREATMENT OF HUMAN PERSPIRATION The invention thus relates to the use, as agent for the treatment of human perspiration, in a cosmetic composition, of adenosine and/or one of its derivatives of formula (I) which will be defined later.
The invention also relates to a cosmetic method for treating human perspiration and optionally the body odours related to human perspiration, in particular axillary odours.
In the cosmetics field, it is well known to use aluminium and/or zirconium salts in topical application as antiperspirants , which salts have the effect of limiting, indeed even suppressing, the flow of sweat. These products are generally available in the roll-on, stick, aerosol or spray form.
Metal salts of this type are effective as antiperspirant active principle but some people find that the application of such products results in skin irritation. Furthermore, the aluminium salts block a portion of the sweat by the formation of a partial plug in the sweat duct and give the consumer the impression of an unnatural control of the perspiration. Furthermore, they also have a tendency to leave marks on clothing.
The need thus remains to look for novel formulations for the treatment of perspiration which do not exhibit the disadvantages encountered with those known to date and which give good antiperspirant effectiveness. The need thus exists to look for novel antiperspirant active principles which can replace aluminium salts and aluminium/zirconium salts, which are effective and easy to formulate and which are well tolerated .
The Applicant Company has discovered, surprisingly, that adenosine and/or one of its derivatives of formula (I) which will be defined later make it possible to achieve this objective and can easily be formulated in numerous products intended to reduce perspiration, without it being necessary to use conventional astringent salts.
The invention thus relates to the use, as agent for the treatment of human perspiration, in a cosmetic composition, of adenosine and/or one of its derivatives of formula (I) which will be defined later.
Another subject-matter of the present invention is a cosmetic method for the treatment of human perspiration and optionally of body odours, in particular axillary odours, which consists in applying, to the surface of the skin, a composition comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable medium, at least adenosine and/or one of its derivatives of formula (I) which will be defined later and their salts, optical isomers and solvates .
The term "cosmetically acceptable" is understood to mean compatible with the skin and/or its superficial body growths, exhibiting a pleasant colour, a pleasant odour and a pleasant feel, and not causing unacceptable discomfort (smarting, tightness, redness) liable to dissuade the consumer from using this composition.
The term "agent for the treatment of perspiration" is understood to mean any substance which has the effect of reducing the flow of sweat and/or of reducing the feeling of dampness related to human sweat and/or of masking human sweat.
Adenosine (CAS: 58-61-7) has the structure:
Figure imgf000003_0001
(compound A)
The adenosine derivatives in accordance with the invention correspond to the following formula (I) :
Figure imgf000004_0001
(I)
in which:
- (a) Ri and R2 denote a hydrogen or a saturated C1-C6 or unsaturated C2-C6 linear or saturated or unsaturated C3-C6 branched hydrocarbon radical or together form, with the oxygen atoms to which they are attached, an isopropylidene radical, and
R3 denotes:
(i) a -COR4 group, with R4 denoting a saturated C1-C9 or unsaturated C2-C9 linear or saturated or unsaturated C3-C9 branched hydrocarbon radical optionally substituted by at least one group chosen from -OR' , -NR'R", -COOR' , -CONR'R", -CF3, -F, -OCF3, -CN or -N02; or
(ii) an ester group resulting from biotin;
or
- (b) Ri and R2 together form, with the oxygen atoms to which they are attached, an isopropylidene radical and R3 denotes a saturated C1-C10 or unsaturated C2-C10 linear or saturated or unsaturated C3-C10 branched hydrocarbon radical optionally substituted by at least one group chosen from -OR' , -NR'R", -COOR' , -CONR'R", -CF3, -F, -OCF3, -CN or -NO2;
R' and R" denoting a hydrogen atom or a saturated C1-C6 or unsaturated C2-C6 linear or saturated or unsaturated C3-C6 branched hydrocarbon radical optionally substituted by at least one group chosen from -OZ, -NZZ' or -COOZ, Z and Z' denoting, independently of one another, a hydrogen atom or a saturated C1-C6 or unsaturated C3-C6 linear or saturated or unsaturated C2-C6 branched hydrocarbon radical;
and their salts, optical isomers and solvates.
In the formula (I), the hydrocarbon (or alkyl) groups can be chosen in particular, as the case may be, from the methyl, ethyl, n-propyl, isopropyl, n-butyl, isobutyl, tert-butyl, pentyl, hexyl, heptyl, octyl, nonyl or decyl groups .
Preferred Ri and ]¾ radicals in the formula (I) described above are those together forming, with the oxygen atoms to which they are attached, an isopropylidene radical.
For the compounds of formula (I), preference is given to those having the following meanings:
- Ri and R2 denote hydrogen or together form, with the oxygen atoms to which they are attached, an isopropylidene radical;
- R3 denotes:
(i) a -COR4 group, with R4 denoting a linear C1-C9 hydrocarbon radical or a branched C3-C9 hydrocarbon radical which is saturated or unsaturated;
(ii) an ester group resulting from biotin.
More preferably, use is made of the compounds of formula (I) for which:
- Ri and R2 denote hydrogen or together form, with the oxygen atoms to which they are attached, an isopropylidene radical;
- R3 denotes:
(i) a -COR4 group, with R4 denoting a saturated linear
C1-C9 hydrocarbon radical; or
(ii) an ester group resulting from biotin.
More preferably still, use is made of the compounds of formula (I) for which:
Ri and R2 denote hydrogen or together form, with the oxygen atoms to which they are attached, an isopropylidene radical;
R3 denotes a -COR4 group, with R4 denoting a linear C1-C9 hydrocarbon radical, or an ester group resulting from biotin.
Mention may be made, as salts of the compounds of formula (I), of the salts obtained by addition of compound of formula (I) with an inorganic acid, chosen in particular from hydrochloric acid, sulphuric acid and phosphoric acid, or with an organic acid, chosen in particular from acetic acid, propionic acid, succinic acid, fumaric acid, lactic acid, glycolic acid, citric acid and tartaric acid.
Preferably, the salts of the compounds of formula
(I) are chosen from the salts obtained from hydrochloric acid or acetic acid or citric acid.
Mention may be made, as specific compounds of formula (I), of the following compounds:
Compound B: 2 ' , 3 ' -isopropylidene-5 ' -butanoyladenosine
Figure imgf000006_0001
Compound C: 2' ,3' -isopropylidene-5' -octanoyladenosine
Figure imgf000006_0002
Compound D: 5' -octanoyladenosine
Figure imgf000006_0003
CAS: 145355-72-2 Compound E: 2 ' 3 ' -isopropylidene-5 ' -biotinoyladenosine
Figure imgf000007_0001
Co ' , 3 ' -isopropylidene-5-ethyladenosine
Figure imgf000007_0002
Compound G: 2 3 ' -isopropylidene-5 ' -octyladenosine
~
Figure imgf000007_0003
Co ' , 3 ' -dimethyl-5 ' -ethyladenosine
Figure imgf000007_0004
Compound I: 2 3 ' -dimethyl-5 ' -butanoyladenosine
Figure imgf000007_0005
Compound J: 2 3 ' -isopropylidene-5 ' -acetyladenosine (
Figure imgf000008_0001
Use will more particularly be made of adenosine (compound A) or one of its following derivatives:
Co nosine
Figure imgf000008_0002
Compound J: 2 ' , 3 ' -isopropylidene-5 ' -acetyladenosine (
Figure imgf000008_0003
The compounds of formula (I) and their methods of synthesis are known from the prior art and are described in the following documents:
- EP 1 847 547;
- WO-A-2004/037159;
- Poppe, L et al . ; "Synthesis and characterization of (5' -deoxyadenosin-5 ' -yl) cobalamin (= xadenosylcobal- amine' ) analogs mimicking the transition-state geometry of coenzyme-B12-dependent rearrangements"; Helvetica Chimica Acta (1993), 76(6), 2367-83;
- Jones, A.S. et al . ; "Synthetic analogs of polynucleotides. VII. Synthesis of 5'-0- acryloylnucleosides and copolymers of these with other arcyloyl compounds"; Journal of the Chemical Society [Section] C: Organic (1971), (19), 3183-7;
- Mornet, D. et al.; "The reaction of myosin with a bromoalkyl analog of adenosine triphosphate"; FEBS Letters (1977), 84(2), 362-6;
- Huber Gerhard; "Esters of adenosine with organic and inorganic acids"; Chem. Ber. , 89, 2853-62 (1956) - ref. CA52 : 2027g
Takemoto, K. et al . ; "Nucleic acid analogs: their specific interaction and applicability"; Polymeric Materials Science and Engineering (1988), 58, 250-3;
- Purkayastha, Bhupesh C. and Bhattacharyya, S. N; "Use of Ca oxalate monohydrate in the investigation of rare earth and thorium activities"; J. Indian. Chem. Soc, 34, 427-33 (1957) - ref. CA52:2627h;
- Peterli, Stefan et al.; "Nitrostyrene derivatives of adenosine 5 ' -glutarates as selective inhibitors of the epidermal growth factor receptor protein tyrosine kinase"; Helvetica Chimica Acta (1992), 75(3), 696-706.
In order to give an order of magnitude, use may be made of adenosine and/or one of its derivatives in an amount representing from 0.01% to 10% of the total weight of the composition, preferably in an amount representing from 0.05% to 5% of the total weight of the composition, more preferably in an amount representing from 0.1% to 2% of the total weight of the composition .
FORMULATION FORMS
The composition according to the invention can be provided in all the formulation forms conventionally used for a topical application and in particular in the form of aqueous gels or of aqueous or aqueous/alcoholic solutions. They can also, by addition of a fatty or oily phase, be provided in the form of dispersions of the lotion type, of emulsions with a liquid or semiliquid consistency of the milk type, obtained by dispersion of a fatty phase in an aqueous phase (O/W) or vice versa (W/O), or of suspensions or emulsions with a soft, semisolid or solid consistency of the cream or gel type, or also of multiple (W/O/W or 0/W/O) emulsions, of microemulsions , of vesicular dispersions of ionic and/or nonionic type, or of wax/aqueous phase dispersions. These compositions are prepared according to the normal methods .
The compositions of the invention can be packaged in pressurized form in an aerosol device or in a pump- action spray, packaged in a device equipped with an openwork wall, in particular a grating, or packaged in a device equipped with a ball applicator (roll-on) . In this respect, they comprise the ingredients generally used in products of this type which are well known to a person skilled in the art.
According to another specific form of the invention, the compositions according to the invention can be anhydrous .
Anhydrous composition is understood to mean a composition comprising less than 2% by weight of water, indeed even less than 0.5% by weight of water, and in particular devoid of water, the water not being added during the preparation of the composition but corresponding to the residual water contributed by the mixed ingredients.
The antiperspirant compositions according to the invention can also be provided in the form of sticks.
According to a specific form of the invention, the compositions for treating perspiration according to the invention can also be provided in the form of a loose or compact powder.
The compositions according to the invention intended for cosmetic use can comprise at least one aqueous phase. They are in particular formulated as aqueous lotions, as a water-in-oil or oil-in-water emulsion or as a multiple emulsion (oil-in-water-in-oil or water-in-oil-in-water triple emulsion) (such emulsions are known and described, for example, by C. Fox in "Cosmetics and Toiletries", November 1986, Vol. 101, pages 101-112). AQUEOUS PHASE
The aqueous phase of the said compositions comprises water and generally other solvents which are soluble or miscible in water. The solvents which are soluble or miscible in water comprise short-chain, for example C1-C4, monoalcohols , such as ethanol or isopropanol ; or diols or polyols, such as ethylene glycol, 1 , 2-propylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, diethylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, 2-ethoxyethanol, diethylene glycol monomethyl ether, triethylene glycol monomethyl ether and sorbitol. Use will more particularly be made of propylene glycol and glycerol, 1,3 propanediol.
EMULSIFIERS a) Oil-in-water emulsifiers
Mention may be made, as emulsifiers which can be used in oil-in-water emulsions or oil-in-water-in-oil triple emulsions, for example, of nonionic emulsifiers, such as oxyalkylenated (more particularly polyoxyethylenated) esters of fatty acids and of glycerol; oxyalkylenated esters of fatty acids and of sorbitan; oxyalkylenated (oxyethylenated and/or oxypropylenated) esters of fatty acids; oxyalkylenated (oxyethylenated and/or oxypropylenated) ethers of fatty alcohols; sugar esters, such as sucrose stearate; and their mixtures, such as the mixture of glyceryl stearate and of PEG-40 stearate.
Mention may also be made of fatty alcohol/alkylpolyglycoside emulsifying mixtures, such as are described in Applications WO 92/06778, WO 95/13863 and WO 98/47610, for example the commercial products sold by SEPPIC under the MONTANOV® names. b) Water-in-oil emulsifiers
Mention may be made, among the emulsifiers which can be used in water-in-oil emulsions or water-in-oil- in-water-in-oil triple emulsions or triple emulsions, by way of example, of alkyl dimethicone copolyols corresponding to the following formula (I) :
CH, CH3 CH,
CH,
CH, Si -Si - -o Si - O- Si - CH, (I)
I
CH,
CH, R in which:
Ri denotes a linear or branched C12-C20 and preferably
C12-C18 alkyl group;
R2 denotes the group : --CnH2n-- ( -OC2H4- ) x-- ( -OC3H6- ) y--0-R3 ;
R3 denotes a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched alkyl radical comprising from 1 to 12 carbon atoms;
a is an integer ranging from 1 to approximately 500; b denotes an integer ranging from 1 to approximately 500;
n is an integer ranging from 2 to 12 and preferably from 2 to 5;
x denotes an integer ranging from 1 to approximately 50 and preferably from 1 to 30;
y denotes an integer ranging from 0 to approximately 49 and preferably from 0 to 29, with the proviso that, when y is other than zero, the ratio x/y is greater than 1 and preferably varies from 2 to 11.
Mention will more particularly be made, among the preferred alkyl dimethicone copolyol emulsifiers of formula (I), of Cetyl PEG/PPG-10/1 Dimethicone and more particularly the Cetyl PEG/PPG-10/1 Dimethicone and Dimethicone mixture (INCI name), such as the product sold under the trade name Abil EM90 by Goldschmidt, or else the Polyglyceryl-4 Stearate and Cetyl PEG/PPG-10 (and) Dimethicone (and) Hexyl Laurate mixture, such as the product sold under the trade name Abil WE09 by the same company.
Mention may also be made, among water-in-oil emulsifiers, of the dimethicone copolyols corresponding to the following formula (II) :
CH3 - CH, (ID
Figure imgf000013_0001
in which:
R4 denotes the group : --CmH2m-- ( -OC2H4- ) s-- ( -OC3H6- ) t __0—R5 ; R5 denotes a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched alkyl radical comprising from 1 to 12 carbon atoms;
c is an integer ranging from 1 to approximately 500; d denotes an integer ranging from 1 to approximately 500;
m is an integer ranging from 2 to 12 and preferably from 2 to 5;
s denotes an integer ranging from 1 to approximately 50 and preferably from 1 to 30;
t denotes an integer ranging from 0 to approximately 50 and preferably from 0 to 30;
with the proviso that the sum s+t is greater than or equal to 1.
Use will particularly be made, among these preferred dimethicone copolyol emulsifiers of formula (II), of PEG-18/PPG-18 Dimethicone and more particularly the Cyclopentasiloxane (and) PEG-18/PPG-18 Dimethicone mixture (INCI name), such as the product sold by Dow Corning under the trade name Silicone DC 5225 C or KF-6040 from Shin-Etsu.
According to a particularly preferred form, use will be made of a mixture of at least one emulsifier of formula (I) and of at least one emulsifier of formula (II) .
Use will more particularly be made of a mixture of PEG-18/PPG-18 Dimethicone and Cetyl PEG/PPG-10/1 Dimethicone and more particularly still of a mixture of Cyclopentasiloxane (and) PEG-18/PPG-18 Dimethicone and of Cetyl PEG/PPG-10/1 Dimethicone and Dimethicone or of Polyglyceryl-4 Stearate and Cetyl PEG/PPG-10 (and) Dimethicone (and) Hexyl Laurate.
Mention may also be made, among water-in-oil emulsifiers, of nonionic emulsifiers derived from fatty acid and from polyol, alkylpolyglycosides (APG) , sugar esters and their mixtures.
Use may in particular be made, as nonionic emulsifiers derived from fatty acid and from polyol, of esters of fatty acid and of polyol, the fatty acid having in particular a C8-C24 alkyl chain and the polyols being, for example, glycerol and sorbitan.
Mention may in particular be made, as esters of fatty acid and of polyol, of esters of isostearic acid and of polyols, esters of stearic acid and of polyols, and their mixtures, in particular the esters of isostearic acid and of glycerol and/or of sorbitan.
Mention may in particular be made, as esters of stearic acid and of polyols, of the polyethylene glycol esters, such as PEG-30 Dipolyhydroxystearate, such as the product sold under the name Arlacel P135 by ICI.
Mention may be made, as esters of glycerol and/or of sorbitan, for example of polyglycerol isostearate, such as the product sold under the name Isolan GI 34 by Goldschmidt ; sorbitan isostearate, such as the product sold under the name Arlacel 987 by ICI; sorbitan isostearate and glycerol, such as the product sold under the name Arlacel 986 by ICI; the mixture of sorbitan isostearate and of polyglycerol (3 mol) isostearate sold under the name Arlacel 1690 by Uniqema; and their mixtures.
The emulsifier can also be chosen from alkylpolyglycosides having an HLB of less than 7, for example those represented by the following general formula ( 1 ) :
R-0-(G)x (1)
in which R represents a branched and/or unsaturated alkyl radical comprising from 14 to 24 carbon atoms, G represents a reduced sugar comprising from 5 to 6 carbon atoms and x denotes a value ranging from 1 to 10 and preferably from 1 to 4, and G denotes in particular a glucose, fructose or galactose.
The unsaturated alkyl radical can comprise one or more ethylenic unsaturations and in particular one or two ethylenic unsaturations.
Mention may be made, as alkylpolyglycosides of this type, of alkylpolyglucosides (G=glucose in the formula (1)) and in particular the compounds of formula (1) in which R more particularly represents an oleyl radical (unsaturated C18 radical) or an isostearyl radical (saturated C18 radical) , G denotes glucose and x is a value ranging from 1 to 2, in particular isostearyl glucoside, oleyl glucoside and their mixtures. This alkylpolyglucoside can be used as a mixture with a coemulsifier, more especially with a fatty alcohol and in particular a fatty alcohol having the same fatty chain as that of the alkylpolyglucoside, that is to say comprising from 14 to 24 carbon atoms and having a branched and/or unsaturated chain, for example isostearyl alcohol when the alkylpolyglucoside is isostearyl glucoside and oleyl alcohol when the alkylpolyglucoside is oleyl glucoside, optionally in the form of a self-emulsifying composition, such as described, for example, in the document WO-A-92/06778. Use may be made, for example, of the isostearyl glucoside and isostearyl alcohol mixture sold under the name Montanov WO 18 by SEPPIC and the octyldodecanol and octyldodecyl xyloside mixture sold under the name Fludanov 20X by SEPPIC.
Mention may also be made of polyolefins comprising a succinic ending, such as polyisobutylenes comprising an esterified succinic ending and their salts, in particular the diethanolamine salts, such as the products sold under the names Lubrizol 2724, Lubrizol 2722 and Lubrizol 5603 by Lubrizol or the commercial product Chemcinnate 2000.
The total amount of emulsifiers in the composition will preferably be in the composition according to the invention at active material contents ranging from 1 to 8% by weight and more particularly from 2 to 6% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the composition .
FATTY PHASE
The compositions according to the invention can comprise at least one water-immiscible liquid organic phase. The latter generally comprises one or more hydrophobic compounds which render the said phase immiscible in water. The said phase is liquid (in the absence of structuring agent) at ambient temperature (20-25°C). Preferably, the water-immiscible liquid organic phase in accordance with the invention generally comprises at least one volatile oil and/or one nonvolatile oil and optionally at least one structuring agent.
"Oil" is understood to mean a fatty substance which is liquid at ambient temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg, i.e. 105 Pa) . The oil can be volatile or nonvolatile.
"Volatile oil" is understood to mean, within the meaning of the invention, an oil capable of evaporating on contact with the skin or keratinous fibre in less than one hour, at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure. The volatile oils of the invention are volatile cosmetic oils which are liquid at ambient temperature and which have a nonzero vapour pressure, at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure, ranging in particular from 0.13 Pa to 40 000 Pa (10~3 to 300 mmHg), in particular ranging from 1.3 Pa to 13 000 Pa (0.01 to 100 mmHg), and more particularly ranging from 1.3 Pa to 1300 Pa (0.01 to 10 mmHg) .
"Nonvolatile oil" is understood to mean an oil which remains on the skin or keratinous fibre, at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure, for at least several hours and which has in particular a vapour pressure of less than 10~3 mmHg (0.13 Pa) . The oil can be chosen from any physiologically acceptable and in particular cosmetically acceptable oil, especially mineral, animal, vegetable or synthetic oils, in particular volatile or nonvolatile hydrocarbon and/or silicone and/or fluorinated oils and their mixtures .
More specifically, "hydrocarbon oil" is understood to mean an oil comprising mainly carbon and hydrogen atoms and optionally one or more functional groups chosen from hydroxyl, ester, ether or carboxyl functional groups. Generally, the oil exhibits a viscosity of 0.5 to 100 000 mPa-s, preferably of 50 to 50 000 mPa-s and more preferably of 100 to 300 000 mPa-s.
Mention may be made, as example of volatile oil which can be used in the invention, of:
volatile hydrocarbon oils chosen from hydrocarbon oils having from 8 to 16 carbon atoms and in particular Cs-Ci6 isoalkanes of petroleum origin (also known as isoparaffins ) , such as isododecane (also known as 2 , 2 , 4 , 4 , 6-pentamethylheptane) , isodecane, isohexadecane and, for example, the oils sold under the Isopar or Permethyl trade names, branched Cs-Ci6 esters, isohexyl neopentanoate and their mixtures. Other volatile hydrocarbon oils, such as petroleum distillates, in particular those sold under the name Shell Solt by Shell, can also be used; volatile linear alkanes, such as those described in the Cognis patent application WO 2007/068371, in particular those obtained from fatty alcohols, themselves obtained from coconut or palm oil.
volatile silicones, such as, for example, volatile linear or cyclic silicone oils, in particular those having a viscosity ≤ 8 centistokes (8 χ 10~6 m2/s) and having in particular from 2 to 7 silicon atoms, these silicones optionally comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms. Mention may in particular be made, as volatile silicone oil which can be used in the invention, of octamethyl- cyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, heptamethylhexyl- trisiloxane, heptamethyloctyltrisiloxane, hexamethyl- disiloxane, octamethyltrisiloxane, decamethyl- tetrasiloxane or dodecamethylpentasiloxane, and
their mixtures.
Mention may also be made of volatile linear alkyltrisiloxane oils of general formula (I): CHj3
Figure imgf000018_0001
SiO— O SijcHj
R
where R represents an alkyl group comprising from 2 to 4 carbon atoms, one or more hydrogen atoms of which can be replaced by a fluorine or chlorine atom.
Mention may be made, among the oils of general formula ( I ) , of :
3-butyl-l, 1,1,3,5,5, 5-heptamethyltrisiloxane,
3-propyl-l, 1,1,3,5,5, 5-heptamethyltrisiloxane, and 3-ethyl-l, 1,1,3,5,5, 5-heptamethyltrisiloxane,
corresponding to the oils of formula (I) for which R is respectively a butyl group, a propyl group or an ethyl group.
Mention may be made, as example of nonvolatile oil which can be used in the invention, of:
- hydrocarbon oils of animal origin, such as perhydrosqualene ;
- vegetable hydrocarbon oils, such as liquid triglycerides of fatty acids having from 4 to 24 carbon atoms, such as triglycerides of heptanoic or octanoic acids or also wheat germ, olive, sweet almond, palm, rapeseed, cottonseed, alfalfa, poppy, pumpkinseed, cucumber, blackcurrant seed, evening primrose, millet, barley, quinoa, rye, safflower, candlenut, passionflower, musk rose, sunflower, maize, soybean, grape seed, sesame, hazelnut, apricot, macadamia, castor or avocado oils, triglycerides of caprylic/capric acids, such as those sold by Stearineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol 810, 812 and 818 by Dynamit Nobel, jojoba oil or shea butter;
- linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin, such as liquid paraffins and their derivatives, liquid petrolatum, polydecenes, polybutenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene, such as Parleam, or squalane;
- synthetic ethers having from 10 to 40 carbon atoms;
- synthetic esters, in particular of fatty acids, such as oils of formula R1COOR2 in which Ri represents the residue of a linear or branched higher fatty acid comprising from 1 to 40 carbon atoms and R2 represents a hydrocarbon chain, in particular a branched hydrocarbon chain, comprising from 1 to 40 carbon atoms with Rx + R2 ≥ 10, such as, for example, Purcellin oil (cetearyl octanoate) , isononyl isononanoate, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, C12 to C15 alkyl benzoate, hexyl laurate, diisopropyl adipate, isononyl isononanoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-octyldodecyl stearate, 2-octyldodecyl erucate, isostearyl isostearate or tridecyl trimellitate ; octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates of alcohols or polyalcohols , such as propylene glycol dioctanoate; hydroxylated esters, such as isostearyl lactate, octyl hydroxystearate, octyldodecyl hydroxystearate, diisostearyl malate, triisocetyl citrate or heptanoates, octanoates, decanoates of fatty alcohols; polyol esters, such as propylene glycol dioctanoate, neopentyl glycol diheptanoate or diethylene glycol diisononanoate ; and pentaerythritol esters, such as pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate;
- fatty alcohols which are liquid at ambient temperature and which comprise a branched and/or unsaturated carbon chain having from 12 to 26 carbon atoms, such as octyldodecanol , isostearyl alcohol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol or oleyl alcohol; - higher fatty acids, such as oleic acid, linoleic acid or linolenic acid;
- carbonates;
- acetates;
- citrates;
- fluorinated oils which optionally comprise a hydrocarbon and/or silicone part, such as fluorosilicone oils, fluoropolyethers or fluorosilicones, such as described in the document EP-A-847752;
- silicone oils, such as nonvolatile linear or cyclic polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMSs) ; polydimethylsiloxanes comprising pendant alkyl, alkoxy or phenyl groups or alkyl, alkoxy or phenyl groups at the end of the silicone chain, which groups have from 2 to 24 carbon atoms; or phenylated silicones, such as phenyl trimethicones , phenyl dimethicones , phenyl (trimethyl- siloxy) diphenylsiloxanes , diphenyl dimethicones, diphenyl (methyldiphenyl ) trisiloxanes or (2-phenyl- ethyl ) trimethylsiloxysilicates , and
- their mixtures.
STRUCTURING AGENT The compositions according to the invention comprising a fatty phase can additionally comprise at least one structuring agent for the said fatty phase which can preferably be chosen from waxes, pasty compounds, inorganic or organic lipophilic gelling agents and their mixtures.
It is understood that the amount of these compounds can be adjusted by a person skilled in the art so as not to be detrimental to the effect desired in the context of the present invention.
Wax (es)
The wax is generally a lipophilic compound which is solid at ambient temperature (25°C), which exhibits a reversible solid/liquid change in state and which has a melting point of greater than or equal to 30°C which can range up to 200°C and in particular up to 120°C.
In particular, the waxes suitable for the invention can exhibit a melting point of greater than or equal to 45°C and in particular of greater than or equal to 55°C.
Within the meaning of the invention, the melting point corresponds to the temperature of the most endothermic peak observed by thermal analysis (DSC) as described in Standard ISO 11357-3; 1999. The melting point of the wax can be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC) , for example the calorimeter sold under the name "MDSC 2920" by TA Instruments.
The measurement protocol is as follows:
A 5 mg sample of wax placed in a crucible is subjected to a first rise in temperature ranging from -20°C to 100°C at a heating rate of 10°C/minute, is then cooled from 100°C to -20°C at a cooling rate of 10°C/minute and, finally, is subjected to a second rise in temperature ranging from -20°C to 100°C at a heating rate of 5°C/minute. During the second rise in temperature, the variation in the difference in power absorbed by the empty crucible and by the crucible comprising the sample of wax is measured as a function of the temperature. The melting point of the compound is the value of the temperature corresponding to the tip of the peak of the curve representing the variation in the difference in power absorbed as a function of the temperature.
The waxes capable of being used in the compositions according to the invention are chosen from waxes of animal, vegetable, mineral or synthetic origin, and their mixtures, which are solid at ambient temperature .
Mention may in particular be made, by way of illustration of the waxes suitable for the invention, of hydrocarbon waxes, such as beeswax, lanolin wax and Chinese insect waxes; rice bran wax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, ouricury wax, alfa wax, berry wax, shellac wax, Japan wax and sumac wax; montan wax, orange and lemon waxes, refined sunflower wax, sold under the name sunflower wax by Koster Keunen, microcrystalline waxes, paraffin waxes and ozokerite; polyethylene waxes, the waxes obtained by the Fischer- Tropsch synthesis and waxy copolymers, and their esters.
Mention may also be made of waxes obtained by catalytic hydrogenation of animal or vegetable oils having linear or branched C8-C32 fatty chains. Mention may in particular be made, among these, of isomerized jojoba oil, such as the transisomerized partially hydrogenated jojoba oil manufactured or sold by Desert Whale under the commercial reference Iso-Joj oba-50®, hydrogenated sunflower oil, hydrogenated castor oil, hydrogenated coconut oil, hydrogenated lanolin oil and di ( 1 , 1 , 1-trimethylolpropane) tetrastearate, sold under the name of Hest 2T-4S® by Heterene.
Mention may also be made of silicone waxes (C30-45 alkyl dimethicone) or fluorinated waxes.
Use may also be made of the waxes obtained by hydrogenation of castor oil esterified with cetyl alcohol which are sold under the names of Phytowax Castor 16L64® and 22L73® by Sophim. Such waxes are described in Application FR-A-2 792 190.
Use may be made, as wax, of a C2o_C4o alkyl (hydroxystearyloxy) stearate (the alkyl group comprising from 20 to 40 carbon atoms), alone or as a mixture.
Such a wax is sold in particular under the names "Kester Wax K 82 P®", "Hydroxypolyester K 82 P®" and "Kester Wax K 80 P®" by Koster Keunen.
Mention may in particular be made, as microwaxes which can be used in the compositions according to the invention, of carnauba microwaxes, such as that sold under the name of MicroCare 350® by Micro Powders, synthetic wax microwaxes, such as that sold under the name of MicroEase 114S® by Micro Powders, the microwaxes composed of a mixture of carnauba wax and of polyethylene wax, such as those sold under the names of MicroCare 300® and 310® by Micro Powders, the microwaxes composed of a mixture of carnauba wax and of synthetic wax, such as that sold under the name MicroCare 325® by Micro Powders, polyethylene microwaxes, such as those sold under the names of Micropoly 200®, 220®, 220L® and 250S® by Micro Powders, the commercial products Perfomalen 400 Polyethylene and Performalene 500-L Polyethylene from New Phase Technologies, Performalene 655 Polyethylene or paraffin waxes, such as the wax having the INCI name Microcristalline Wax and Synthetic Wax and sold under the trade name Microlease by Sochibo; or polytetrafluoroethylene microwaxes, such as those sold under the names of Microslip 519® and 519 L® by Micro Powders .
The composition according to the invention will preferably comprise a content of wax(es) ranging from 3 to 20% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the composition, in particular from 5 to 15% by weight and more particularly from 6 to 15% by weight. Pasty compounds
"Pasty compound" is understood to mean, within the meaning of the present invention, a lipophilic fatty compound which exhibits a reversible solid/liquid change in state, which exhibits an anisotropic crystalline arrangement in the solid state and which comprises, at a temperature of 23°C, a liquid fraction and a solid fraction.
The pasty compound is preferably chosen from synthetic compounds and compounds of vegetable origin. A pasty compound can be obtained by synthesis from starting materials of vegetable origin.
The pasty compound can advantageously be chosen from: - lanolin and its derivatives,
- polymeric or nonpolymeric silicone compounds,
- polymeric or nonpolymeric fluorinated compounds,
- vinyl polymers, in particular:
- olefin homopolymers,
- olefin copolymers,
- hydrogenated diene homopolymers and copolymers,
- linear or branched oligomers which are homo- or copolymers of alkyl (meth) acrylates preferably having a C8-C30 alkyl group,
- oligomers which are homo- and copolymers of vinyl esters having C8-C30 alkyl groups,
- oligomers which are homo- and copolymers of vinyl ethers having C8-C30 alkyl groups,
- fat-soluble polyethers resulting from the polyetherification between one or more C2-C100, preferably C2-C50, diols,
- esters,
- their mixtures.
Preference is in particular given, among esters, to :
- esters of an oligomeric glycerol, in particular diglycerol esters, in particular condensates of adipic acid and of glycerol, for which a portion of the hydroxyl groups of the glycerols have reacted with a mixture of fatty acids, such as stearic acid, capric acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid and 12-hydroxy- stearic acid, such as in particular those sold under the Softisan 649 brand by Sasol,
- arachidyl propionate, sold under the Waxenol 801 brand by Alzo,
- phytosterol esters,
- triglycerides of fatty acids and their derivatives,
- pentaerythritol esters,
- noncrosslinked polyesters resulting from the polycondensation between a linear or branched C4-C50 dicarboxylic acid or polycarboxylic acid and a C2-C50 diol or polyol,
- ester aliphatic esters resulting from the esterification of an aliphatic hydroxycarboxylic acid ester by an aliphatic carboxylic acid,
- polyesters resulting from the esterification, by a polycarboxylic acid, of an aliphatic hydroxycarboxylic acid ester, the said ester comprising at least two hydroxyl groups, such as the products Risocast DA-H® and Risocast DA-L®,
- dimer diol and dimer diacid esters, if appropriate esterified on their free alcohol or acid functional group (s) by acid or alcohol radicals, such as Plandool-G,
- their mixtures.
The choice will preferably be made, among pasty compounds of vegetable origin, of a mixture of soybean sterols and of oxyethylenated (5 EO) /oxypropylenated (5 PO) pentaerythritol sold under the reference Lanolide by Vevy.
Lipophilic gelling agents
Inorganic gelling agents
Mention may be made, as inorganic lipophilic gelling agent, of optionally modified clays, such as hectorites modified by a Cio to C22 ammonium chloride, such as hectorite modified by distearyldimethylammonium chloride, such as, for example, that sold under the name Bentone 38V® by Elementis.
Mention may also be made of pyrogenic silica optionally hydrophobically treated at the surface, the size of the particles of which is less than 1 ym. This is because it is possible to chemically modify the surface of the silica by chemical reaction which results in a decrease in the number of silanol groups present at the surface of the silica. Silanol groups can in particular be replaced by hydrophobic groups: a hydrophobic silica is then obtained. The hydrophobic groups can be trimethylsiloxyl groups, which are obtained in particular by treatment of pyrogenic silica in the presence of hexamethyldisilazane . Silicas thus treated are named "Silica silylate" according to the CTFA (8th edition, 2000) . They are, for example, sold under the references Aerosil R812® by Degussa or Cab-O-Sil TS-530® by Cabot, dimethylsilyloxyl or polydimethylsiloxane groups, which are obtained in particular by treatment of pyrogenic silica in the presence of polydimethylsiloxane or dimethyldichloro- silane. Silicas thus treated are named "Silica dimethyl silylate" according to the CTFA (8th edition, 2000) . They are, for example, sold under the references Aerosil R972® and Aerosil R974® by Degussa and Cab-O-Sil TS-610® and Cab-O-Sil TS-720® by Cabot.
The hydrophobic pyrogenic silica exhibits in particular a particle size which can be from nanometric to micrometric, for example ranging approximately from 5 to 200 nm.
Organic gelling agents
The polymeric organic lipophilic gelling agents are, for example, partially or completely crosslinked organopolysiloxane elastomers with a three-dimensional structure, such as those sold under the names of KSG6®, KSG16® and KSG18® by Shin-Etsu, of Trefil E-505C® and Trefil E-506C® by Dow Corning, of Gransil SR-CYC®, SR DMF10®, SR-DC556®, SR 5CYC gel®, SR DMF 10 gel® and SR DC 556 gel® by Grant Industries and of SF 1204® and JK 113® by General Electric; ethylcellulose, such as that sold under the name Ethocel® by Dow Chemical; galactomannans comprising from one to six and in particular from two to four hydroxyl groups per monosaccharide and substituted by a saturated or unsaturated alkyl chain, such as guar gum alkylated by Ci to C6 and in particular Ci to C3 alkyl chains, and their mixtures; or block copolymers of "diblock", "triblock" or "radial" type of the polystyrene/poly- isoprene or polystyrene/polybutadiene type, such as those sold under the name Luvitol HSB® by BASF, of the polystyrene/copoly (ethylene-propylene) type, such as those sold under the name Kraton® by Shell Chemical Co., or of the polystyrene/copoly (ethylene-butylene) type, or blends of triblock and radial (star) copolymers in isododecane, such as those sold by Penreco under the name Versagel®, such as, for example, the blend of butylene/ethylene/styrene triblock copolymer and of ethylene/propylene/styrene star copolymer in isododecane (Versagel M 5960) .
Mention may also be made, as lipophilic gelling agent, of polymers with a weight-average molecular weight of less than 100 000 comprising a) a polymer backbone having hydrocarbon repeat units provided with at least one heteroatom and optionally b) at least one optionally functionalized pendant fatty chain and/or at least one optionally functionalized terminal fatty chain having from 6 to 120 carbon atoms and being bonded to these hydrocarbon units, such as described in Applications WO-A-02/056847, WO-A-02/47619, the contents of which are incorporated by way of reference, in particular polyamide resins (especially comprising alkyl groups having from 12 to 22 carbon atoms) , such as those described in US-A-5783657, the content of which is incorporated by way of reference.
Mention may also be made, among the lipophilic gelling agents which can be used in the compositions according to the invention, of esters of dextrin and of fatty acid, such as dextrin palmitates, in particular such as those sold under the names Rheopearl TL® and Rheopearl KL® by Chiba Flour.
Use may also be made of silicone polyamides of the polyorganosiloxane type, such as those described in the documents US-A-5 874 069, US-A-5 919 441, US-A- 6 051 216 and US-A-5 981 680.
These silicone polymers can belong to the following two families:
- polyorganosiloxanes comprising at least two groups capable of establishing hydrogen bond interactions, these two groups being situated in the chain of the polymer, and/or
- polyorganosiloxanes comprising at least two groups capable of establishing hydrogen bond interactions, these two groups being situated on grafts or branchings .
ALUMINIUM AND /OR ZIRCONIUM SALTS OR COMPLEXES
The compositions according to the invention can additionally comprise one or more aluminium and/or zirconium salts or complexes.
The antiperspirant salts or complexes in accordance with the invention are generally chosen from aluminium and/or zirconium salts or complexes. They are preferably chosen from aluminium hydrohalides; aluminium zirconium hydrohalides, or complexes of zirconium hydroxychloride and of aluminium hydroxychloride, with or without an amino acid, such as those described in Patent US-3 792 068.
Mention may in particular be made, among the aluminium salts, of aluminium chlorohydrate in the activated or nonactivated form, aluminium chlorohydrex, the aluminium chlorohydrex polyethylene glycol complex, the aluminium chlorohydrex propylene glycol complex, aluminium dichlorohydrate, the aluminium dichlorohydrex polyethylene glycol complex, the aluminium dichlorohydrex propylene glycol complex, aluminium sesquichlorohydrate, the aluminium sesquichlorohydrex polyethylene glycol complex, the aluminium sesquichlorohydrex propylene glycol complex or aluminium sulphate buffered with sodium aluminium lactate .
Mention may in particular be made, among aluminium zirconium salts, of aluminium zirconium octachloro- hydrate, aluminium zirconium pentachlorohydrate, aluminium zirconium tetrachlorohydrate or aluminium zirconium trichlorohydrate.
The complexes of zirconium hydroxychloride and of aluminium hydroxychloride with an amino acid are generally known under the name ZAG (when the amino acid is glycine) . Mention may be made, among these products, of the aluminium zirconium octachlorohydrex glycine, aluminium zirconium pentachlorohydrex glycine, aluminium zirconium tetrachlorohydrex glycine and aluminium zirconium trichlorohydrex glycine complexes.
The antiperspirant salts or complexes can be present in the composition according to the invention in a proportion of approximately 0.5 to 25% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the composition.
DEODORANT ACTIVE PRINCIPLES
The compositions according to the invention can additionally comprise one or more deodorant active principles .
The deodorant active principles can be bacteriostatic agents or bactericidal agents acting on the microorganisms of axillary odours, such as 2,4,4'- trichloro-2 ' -hydroxydiphenyl ether ( Triclosan) , 2,4- dichloro-2 ' -hydroxydiphenyl ether, 3' , 4' , 5' -trichlorosalicylanilide, 1- (3' , 4' -dichloro- phenyl ) -3- ( 4 ' -chlorophenyl ) urea ( Triclocarban) or 3, 7, ll-trimethyldodeca-2, 5, 10-trienol (®Farnesol) ; quaternary ammonium salts, such as cetyltrimethyl- ammonium salts or cetylpyridinium salts, DPTA ( 1 , 3-diaminopropanetetraacetic acid) or 1 , 2-decanediol (Symclariol from Symrise) ; glycerol derivatives, such as, for example, Caprylic/Capric Glycerides (Capmul MCM from Abitec) , Glyceryl Caprylate/Caprate (Dermosoft GMCY and Dermosoft GMC respectively from Straetmans) or Polyglyceryl-2 Caprate (Dermosoft DGMC from
Straetmans) ; biguanide derivatives, such as polyhexamethylene biguanide salts or chlorhexidine and its salts; or 4-phenyl-4 , 4-dimethyl-2-butanol (Symdeo MPP from Symrise) .
Mention may also be made, among the deodorant active principles in accordance with the invention, of: - zinc salts, such as zinc salicylate, zinc gluconate, zinc pidolate, zinc sulphate, zinc chloride, zinc lactate, zinc phenolsulphonate or zinc ricinoleate ;
- sodium bicarbonate;
- salicylic acid and its derivatives, such as 5- (n-octanoyl ) salicylic acid;
- silver zeolites or silver-free zeolites;
- alum.
In the event of incompatibility or in order to stabilize them, some of the active principles mentioned above can be incorporated in spherules, in particular vesicles, which may be ionic or nonionic, and/or nanoparticles (nanocapsules and/or nanospheres) .
The deodorant active principles can preferably be present in the compositions according to the invention in concentrations by weight ranging from 0.01 to 5% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the composition .
SUSPENDING AGENTS
In order to improve the homogeneity of the product, use may additionally be made of one or more suspending agents which are preferably chosen from hydrophobic modified montmorillonite clays, such as hydrophobic modified bentonites or hectorites. Mention may be made, for example, of the product Stearalkonium Bentonite (CTFA name) (reaction product of bentonite and of the quaternary ammonium stearalkonium chloride) , such as the commercial product sold under the name Tixogel MP 250 by Sud Chemie Rheologicals , United Catalysts, Inc., or the product Disteardimonium Hectorite (CTFA name) (reaction product of hectorite and of distearyldimonium chloride) , sold under the name of Bentone 38 or Bentone Gel by Elementis Specialities.
The suspending agents are preferably present in amounts ranging from 0.1 to 5% by weight and more preferably from 0.2 to 2% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the composition. ORGANIC POWDER
According to a specific form of the invention, the antiperspirant compositions according to the invention will additionally comprise an organic powder.
In the present patent application, "organic powder" is understood to mean any solid which is insoluble in the medium at ambient temperature (25°C) .
Mention may be made, as organic powders which can be used in the composition of the invention, for example, of polyamide particles and in particular those sold under the Orgasol names by Atochem; polyethylene powders; microspheres based on acrylic copolymers, such as those made of ethylene glycol dimethacrylate/lauryl methacrylate copolymer sold by Dow Corning under the name of Polytrap; polymethyl methacrylate microspheres, sold under the name Microsphere M-100 by Matsumoto or under the name Covabead LH85 by Wackherr; hollow polymethyl methacrylate microspheres (particle size: 6.5-10.5 ym) sold under the name Ganzpearl GMP 0800 by Ganz Chemical; methyl methacrylate/ethylene glycol dimethacrylate copolymer microbeads (size: 6.5-10.5 ym) sold under the name Ganzpearl GMP 0820 by Ganz Chemical or Microsponge 5640 by Amcol Health & Beauty Solutions; ethylene/acrylate copolymer powders, such as those sold under the name Flobeads by Sumitomo Seika Chemicals; expanded powders, such as hollow microspheres, in particular the microspheres formed of a terpolymer of vinylidene chloride, of acrylonitrile and of methacrylate sold under the name Expancel by Kemanord Plast under the references 551 DE 12 (particle size of approximately 12 ym and density of 40 kg/m3) , 551 DE 20 (particle size of approximately 30 ym and density of 65 kg/m3) and 551 DE 50 (particle size of approximately 40 ym) or the microspheres sold under the name Micropearl F 80 ED by Matsumoto; powders formed of natural organic materials, such as powders formed of starch, in particular of crosslinked or noncrosslinked maize, wheat or rice starches, such as the powders formed of starch crosslinked with octenylsuccinic anhydride sold under the name Dry-Flo by National Starch; silicone resin microbeads, such as those sold under the name Tospearl by Toshiba Silicone, in particular Tospearl 240; amino acid powders, such as the lauroyllysine powder sold under the name Amihope LL-11 by Ajinomoto; wax microdispersion particles which preferably have mean dimensions of less than 1 ym and in particular ranging from 0.02 ym to 1 ym and which are essentially composed of a wax or of a mixture of waxes, such as the products sold under the name Aquacer by Byk Cera, in particular Aquacer 520 (mixture of synthetic and natural waxes) , Aquacer 514 or 513 (polyethylene wax) or Aquacer 511 (polymer wax) , or such as the products sold under the name Jonwax 120 by Johnson Polymer (mixture of polyethylene and paraffin waxes) and under the name Ceraflour 961 by Byk Cera (micronized modified polyethylene wax) ; and their mixtures .
ADDITIVES
The cosmetic compositions according to the invention can additionally comprise cosmetic adjuvants chosen from softeners, antioxidants, opacifiers, stabilizers, moisturizing agents, vitamins, bactericides, preservatives, polymers, fragrances, thickening agents, propellants or any other ingredient commonly used in cosmetics for this type of application.
Of course, a person skilled in the art will take care to choose this or these optional additional compounds so that the advantageous properties intrinsically attached to the cosmetic composition in accordance with the invention are not, or not substantially, detrimentally affected by the envisaged addition or additions.
The thickeners, preferably nonionic thickeners, can be chosen from modified or unmodified guar gums and celluloses, such as hydroxypropylated guar gum or cetylhydroxyethylcellulose, or silicas, such as, for example, Bentone Gel MIO, sold by NL Industries, or Veegum Ultra, sold by Polyplastic.
The thickeners can also be cationic thickeners, such as, for example, Polyquaternium-37 , sold under the name Salcare SC95 (Polyquaternium-37 (And) Mineral Oil (And) PPG-1 Trideceth-6) or Salcare SC96
(Polyquaternium-37 (And) Propylene Glycol Dicaprylate/Dicaprate (And) PPG-1 Trideceth-6) , or other crosslinked cationic polymers, such as, for example, those with the CTFA name Cationic Ethyl Acrylate/Dimethylaminoethyl Methacrylate Copolymer Emulsion .
The amounts of these various constituents which can be present in the cosmetic composition according to the invention are those conventionally used in compositions for the treatment of perspiration. AEROSOLS
The compositions according to the invention can also be pressurized and be packaged in an aerosol device composed of:
(A) a container comprising an antiperspirant composition as defined above,
(B) at least one propellant and one means for dispensing the said aerosol composition.
The propellants generally used in products of this type, which are well known to a person skilled in the art, are such as, for example, dimethyl ether (DME) , volatile hydrocarbons, such as n-butane, propane or isobutane, and their mixtures, optionally with at least one chlorinated and/or fluorinated hydrocarbon; mention may be made, among the latter, of the compounds sold by Dupont de Nemours under the Freon® and Dymel® names, in particular monofluorotrichloromethane, difluorodi- chloromethane, tetrafluorodichloroethane and 1,1-di- fluoroethane, sold in particular under the trade name Dymel 152 A by Dupont . Use may also be made, as propellant, of carbon dioxide gas, nitrous oxide, nitrogen or compressed air.
The compositions comprising the perlite particles as defined above and the propellant or propellants can occur in the same compartment or in different compartments in the aerosol container. According to the invention, the concentration of propellant generally varies from 5 to 95% by weight under pressure and more preferably from 50 to 85% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the pressurized composition.
The dispensing means, which forms a part of the aerosol device, is generally composed of a dispensing valve controlled by a dispensing head, itself comprising a nozzle via which the aerosol composition is vaporized. The container comprising the pressurized composition can be opaque or transparent. It can be made of glass, of polymer or of metal, optionally covered with a protective lacquer layer.
The examples which follow serve to illustrate the present invention. The amounts are given as percentage by weight with respect to the total weight of the composition .
EXAMPLES
Example 1: Anhydrous stick
Figure imgf000035_0001
Procedure :
The cyclopentasiloxane is heated to 65°C. The other ingredients are added (one by one) while remaining at 65-70°C. The combined mixture is homogenized (transparent solution) for 15 minutes. The perlite or the superabsorbent polymer is added. The mixture is cooled to approximately 55°C (a few °C above the thickening of the mixture) and poured into the sticks. They are brought to 4°C for 30 minutes. Examples 2 and 3 : Aerosols
Figure imgf000036_0001
Procedure :
The Optimat® 1430 OR is dispersed in the mixture of the other starting materials using a paddle, constituting the phase A. Pressurization is carried out in an aerosol can with the isobutane.

Claims

1. Use, as agent for the treatment of perspiration in a cosmetic composition, of adenosine with the structure:
Figure imgf000037_0001
(compound A)
and/or one of its derivatives corresponding to the following formula (I) :
Figure imgf000037_0002
(I)
in which:
- (a) Ri and R2 denote a hydrogen or a saturated C1-C6 or unsaturated C2-C6 linear or saturated or unsaturated
C3-C6 branched hydrocarbon radical or together form, with the oxygen atoms to which they are attached, an isopropylidene radical, and
R3 denotes:
(i) a -COR4 group, with R4 denoting a saturated C1-C9 or unsaturated C2-C9 linear or saturated or unsaturated C3-C9 branched hydrocarbon radical optionally
substituted by at least one group chosen from - OR ' , -NR ' R" , - COOR ' , - CONR ' R" , -CF3, -F, -OCF3, -CN or -N02; or
(ii) an ester group resulting from biotin;
or
- (b) Ri and R2 together form, with the oxygen atoms to which they are attached, an isopropylidene radical and R3 denotes a saturated C1-C10 or unsaturated C2 - C10 linear or saturated or unsaturated C3-C10 branched hydrocarbon radical optionally substituted by at least one group chosen from -OR', -NR'R", -COOR' , -CONR'R", -CF3, -F, -OCF3, -CN or -NO2 ;
R' and R" denoting a hydrogen atom or a saturated C1-C6 or unsaturated C2-C6 linear or saturated or unsaturated C3-C6 branched hydrocarbon radical optionally
substituted by at least one group chosen from -OZ, -NZZ' or -COOZ, Z and Z' denoting, independently of one another, a hydrogen atom or a saturated C1-C6 or
unsaturated C2-C6 linear or saturated or unsaturated C3-C6 branched hydrocarbon radical;
and their salts, optical isomers and solvates.
2. Use according to Claim 1, where the compound of formula (I) is chosen from those where the Ri and R2 radicals denote a hydrogen or together form, with the oxygen atoms to which they are attached, an isopropylidene radical.
3. Use according to Claim 2, where the compound of formula (I) is chosen from those where:
- Ri and R2 denote a hydrogen or together form, with the oxygen atoms to which they are attached, an isopropylidene radical;
- R3 denotes a - COR4 group, with R4 denoting a linear C1-C9 hydrocarbon radical, or an ester group resulting from biotin.
4. Use according to any one of Claims 1 to 3, where the salts of the compounds of formula (I) are salts obtained by addition of compound of formula (I) with an inorganic acid or an organic acid.
5. Use according to any one of Claims 1 to 4, where the salts of the compounds of formula (I) are salts obtained from hydrochloric acid or acetic acid or citric acid.
6. Use according to any one of Claims 1 to 4, where the following compounds Compound A: adenosine
Compound D: 5 ' -o
Figure imgf000039_0001
Compound J: 2 ' , 3 ' -isopropylidene-5 ' -acetyladenosine
(CAS No. 15888-3
Figure imgf000039_0002
7. Use according to any one of Claims 1 to 15, where the composition is packaged:
(i) in pressurized form in an aerosol device or in a pump-action spray;
(ii) in a device equipped with a ball applicator;
(iii) in a device equipped with an openwork wall, in particular a grating;
(iv) in the form of a stick;
(v) in the form of a loose or compact powder.
8. Cosmetic method for treating human perspiration and optionally human body odours, which consists in applying, to the surface of the skin, a composition comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable medium, at least adenosine and/or one of its derivatives of formula (I) and also its salts, optical isomers and solvates as defined in any one of Claims 1 to 7.
PCT/EP2010/065183 2009-10-22 2010-10-11 Use of adenosine and/or of one of its derivatives as agent for the treatment of human perspiration WO2011047982A2 (en)

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FR0957434A FR2951639B1 (en) 2009-10-22 2009-10-22 USE OF ADENOSINE AND / OR ONE OF ITS DERIVATIVES AS A TREATMENT AGENT FOR HUMAN TRANSPIRATION
US25666009P 2009-10-30 2009-10-30
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