WO2006042625A2

WO2006042625A2 - Compositions with inhibitors of the synthesis of prostaglandin and/or of leukotriene in conjunction with stimulators of the release of cutaneous neuromediators

Info

Publication number: WO2006042625A2
Application number: PCT/EP2005/010524
Authority: WO
Inventors: Thomas Döring; Anemone TRÄGER; Bernd Anderheggen
Original assignee: Henkel Kommanditgesellschaft Auf Aktien
Priority date: 2004-10-15
Filing date: 2005-09-29
Publication date: 2006-04-27
Also published as: WO2006042625A3; DE102005000868A1; EP1799311A2

Abstract

The invention relates to topical compositions containing, in a suitable carrier, at least one active substance, which inhibits the synthesis of prostaglandin and/or of leukotriene, and at least one active substance that stimulates the cutaneous synthesis of neuromediators.

Description

Compositions with inhibitors of prostaglandin and / or leukotriene synthesis in combination with stimulants of the release of cutaneous neuromediators

The present invention relates to topical cosmetic and / or dermatological compositions for the treatment of sensitive and / or dry skin, for the treatment of atopic dermatitis and / or for the treatment of sensory irritations and skin inflammations of the aging skin.

In response to environmental stimuli, not only inflammatory mechanisms (formation of erythema) in the human skin, but at the same time also sensory irritations, such as, for example, As itching, burning or stinging, are triggered. These skin reactions are based on different molecular mechanisms. The simultaneous alleviation of the (inflamed) skin condition and sensory irritations in sensitive skin, dry skin or in atopic dermatitis represents a currently insufficiently solved problem. The tendency to sensory irritation and dermatitis is increasingly present in old age. Also in the case of dry skin, sensory irritations such as feelings of tension and itching often occur in connection with inflammatory skin irritations. The treatment of these manifestations of aging skin and dry skin is a hitherto also insufficiently solved problem. The means known in the state of the art for the treatment of sensitive skin, dry skin, atopic dermatitis or sensory irritations and skin inflammations of the aging skin have hitherto either aimed only at inhibiting the inflammation or else only at reducing itching or generally only at reducing sensory irritations , Compositions for the simultaneous inflammation inhibition and reduction of sensory irritations are not known in the prior art.

The object of the present invention was to develop compositions for the treatment of sensitive and / or dry skin with improved effectiveness compared to the prior art, which both inhibit inflammatory mechanisms and sensory irritations, such as, for example. As itching, reduce. Another task of the present The invention was to develop compositions for the treatment of atopic dermatitis with respect to the prior art improved efficacy, which inhibit both inflammatory mechanisms and sensory irritations, such as. As itching, reduce. A further object of the present invention was to develop compositions for the treatment of sensory irritations and skin inflammations of the aging skin with improved efficacy compared with the prior art, which inhibit both inflammatory mechanisms and sensory irritations, such as, for example, As itching, reduce.

Surprisingly, it has now been found that the abovementioned objects can be achieved by compositions which contain at least one active substance which inhibits inflammatory mechanisms and at least one active substance which minimizes sensory irritations. Known in the prior art agents show only partial effects on ein¬ individual skin reactions. By contrast, the present invention for the first time combines anti-irritative effects with a simultaneous, lasting alleviation of sensory irritations. Furthermore, it was surprisingly found that the different types of drugs can complement each other in a synergistic manner.

The present invention relates to cosmetic and / or dermatological topical compositions which, in a suitable carrier, contain at least one active substance which inhibits prostaglandin synthesis and / or leukotriene synthesis and at least one active substance which stimulates the cutaneous synthesis of neuromediators. contain. Surprisingly, it has been found that this specific combination of active substances is particularly suitable for the care and treatment of the skin, in particular the sensitive skin, the dry skin and / or the atopic skin as well as the aged skin.

In a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the active ingredient inhibiting the prostaglandin synthesis is selected from active substances which inhibit the enzyme cyclooxygenase. For the purposes of the present invention, the inhibition of cyclooxygenase can be understood as meaning both a reduction in the amount of this enzyme and a reduction in its activity, as well as both. In a further preferred embodiment of the present invention, the active ingredient which inhibits prostaglandin synthesis is selected from active compounds which inhibit the secretion of interleukins, in particular of interleukin-1-alpha. In a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the active substance inhibiting leukotriene synthesis is selected from active substances which inhibit the enzyme 5-lipoxygenase. For the purposes of the present invention, the inhibition of 5-lipoxygenase can be understood as meaning both a reduction in the amount of this enzyme and a reduction in its activity, as well as both.

In a further preferred embodiment of the present invention, the active substance stimulating the cutaneous synthesis of neuromediators is selected from active substances which stimulate β-endorphin synthesis in keratinocytes.

Inhibitors of prostaglandin synthesis which are preferred according to the invention, in particular inhibitors of cyclooxygenase and / or interleukin secretion, are selected from silymarin, which is particularly preferably used in liposome-encapsulated form (obtainable, for example, under the trade name silymarin phytosome (INCI: Silybum Marianum Extract and phospholipids) from the company Indena SpA. Silymarin represents an active substance concentrate from the fruits of the milk thistle (Silybum marianum) which was formerly regarded as a uniform substance. The main constituents of the silymarin are silybin (silymarin I), silychristin (silymarin II) and silydianin, Other preferred inhibitors of prostagladin synthesis according to the invention, in particular inhibitors of cyclooxygenase and / or interleukin secretion, are selected from extracts of Centella asiatica, for example available under the name Madecassicoside from DSM, glycyrrethine acid, which is particularly preferably encapsulated in liposomes and in this form z. Sold under the trade name Calmsphere by Soliance, mixtures of cereal waxes, extracts of shea butter and Argania spinosa oil with the INCI name "Spent grain wax and butyrospermum parkii (shea butter) extract and Argania spinosa kernel OiI", as described, for example, in US Pat B. under the trade name Stimu-Tex AS available from the company Pentapharm, extracts of vanilla Tahitensis, as they are available, for example, under the trade name Vanirea (INCI: Vanilla Tahitensis Fruit Extract) from the company Solabia, extracts of olive leaves (INCI: Olea Europaea (Olive) Leaf Extract), as they are in particular under the trade name Oleanoline DPG available from the company Vincience, continue Alginhydrolysaten, as for example under the trade name Phycosacchancer, especially Phycosaccharide AI, from the company Codif, extracts of Bacopa Monniera, as described, for example, under the trade name Bacocalmine by the Company Sederma are available, extracts from the Rooibos plant, as z. B. under the trade name Rooibos Herbasec MPE of the company Cosmetochem Lich, the physiologically acceptable salts of sterol sulfates, as z. B. under the trade name Phytocohesins (INCI: Sodium Beta Sitosterylsulfate) are available from the company Vincience, and any mixtures of these agents.

Preferred compositions according to the invention are characterized in that the concentration of the inhibitor (s) of the prostaglandin synthesis in total 0.0001-10.0% by weight, preferably 0.001-2.0% by weight, particularly preferably 0.05%. 1, 0 wt .-% and most preferably 0.1 to 0.5 wt .-%, each based on the total composition is.

Inhibitors of leukotriene synthesis which are preferred according to the invention, in particular inhibitors of 5-lipoxygenase, are selected from algin hydrolyzates, amino dicarboxylic acids having a C chain length of 3 to 6 carbon atoms and their physiologically tolerated salts, N-alkylated C ₂ -C 10 amino acids C ₁ -C ₂₂ -alkyl radicals and their physiologically tolerated salts, N-acylated C ₂ -C i i-amino acids with C ₂ -C ₂₂ acyl radicals and their physiologically tolerated salts, yeast extracts, α-bisabolol, α-lipoic acid, and any desired mixtures of these agents.

In a preferred embodiment, the algin hydrolyzates according to the invention are selected from the products which, for. B. under the trade name phycosaccharides, in particular phycosaccharides Al, are available from Codif.

In a further preferred embodiment, the inventively preferred aminodicarboxylic acids having a C chain length of 3 to 6 carbon atoms are selected from aminomalonic acid, aminobemic acid (= aspartic acid), aminoglutaric acid and aminoadipic acid and their physiologically tolerated salts. Particular preference is given to aspartic acid and its physiologically tolerated salts, in particular potassium aspartate and magnesium aspartate.

Preferred compositions according to the invention are characterized in that at least one amino dicarboxylic acid having a C chain length of 3 to 6 carbon atoms or at least one physiologically acceptable salt of an amino dicarboxylic acid having a C chain length of 3 to 6 carbon atoms in a total amount of 0.01 to 5 wt .-%, preferably 0.1 to 2 wt .-% and particularly preferably 0.5 to 1 wt .-%, each based on the total topical composition is included.

In a further preferred embodiment, the preferred N-alkylated C ₂ -C ₁₁ -amino acids with a C ₁ -C ₂₂ -alkyl radical selected from alanine, glutamic acid, pyroglutamic acid, lysine, arginine, histidine, valine, leucine, isoleucine, Pro¬ lin, tryptophan, phenylalanine, methionine, glycine, serine, tyrosine, threonine, cysteine, asparagin and glutamine and their physiologically tolerated salts which on the nitrogen atom of the amino group are a C _r C ₂₂ -alkyl radical selected from a group of methyl, Ethyl, propyl, butyl, pentyl, hexyl, heptyl, octyl, nonyl, decyl, undecyl, dodecyl (lauryl), tridecyl, tetradecyl (myristyl), pentadecyl, hexadecyl (palmityl, cetyl), heptadecyl, octadecyl (stearyl), Nonadecyl, eicosanyl (arachidyl) and behenyl. Particularly preferred is N-methylglycine (= sarcosine).

Preferred compositions of the invention are characterized in that at least one N-alkylated C ^ C ^ amino acid having a C _r C ₂₂ -alkyl radical or at least one physiologically acceptable salt of an N-alkylated Cz-Cn-amino acid having a C 1 -C ₂₂ -alkyl radical in a total amount of 0.01 to 10 wt .-%, preferably 0.1 to 5 wt .-% and particularly preferably 0.5 to 2 wt .-%, each based on the total topical composition is included.

In a further preferred embodiment, the inventively preferred N-acylated C ₂ -C _{1 r are} amino acids having a C ₂ -C ₂₂ acyl radical selected from glutamic acid, pyroglutamic acid, lysine, arginine, histidine, valine, leucine, isoleucine, proline, Tryp¬ tophan, phenylalanine, methionine, glycine, serine, tyrosine, threonine, cysteine, asparagine and glutamine and their physiologically acceptable salts. The amino acids can be used individually or in a mixture. More particularly suitable according to the invention are amino acid mixtures which have been obtained from plants, in particular cereal plants. The C ₂ -C ₂₂ -acyl radical with which the amino acids mentioned are derivatized at the amino group is selected from an acetyl, propanoyl, butanoyl, pentanoyl, hexanoyl, heptanoyl, octanoyl, nonanoyl -, decanoyl, undecanoyl, lauroyl, tridecanoyl, myristoyl, pentadecanoyl, cetoyl, palmitoyl, stearoyl, arachidoyl or behenoyl radical. Mixtures of C ₈ -C ₈ -acyl radicals are also referred to as cocoyl radical and are likewise preferred substituents. Particular preference is given to sodium cocoyl amino acids, sodium octanoyl glutamate, sodium decanoyl glutamate, sodium roylglutamate, sodium myristoylglutamate, sodium cetoylglutamate and sodium stearoylglutamate, and the lauroyl derivatives of cereal-derived amino acids. The cereal plants from which the amino acids suitable according to the invention are obtained are subject to no restriction. For example, oats, wheat, barley and rye are suitable; oat is particularly suitable.

A particularly preferred 5-lipoxygenase inhibitor is a mixture of the sodium salts of amino acids acylated with coconut fatty acid residues, the potassium and magnesium salts of aspartic acid and sarcosine, as described for example as Sepiealm S by Seppic with the INCI name "Sodium Cocoyl Amino Acids, Sarcosine, Potassium Aspartate, Magnesium Aspartate" is available. Preferred compositions according to the invention are characterized in that at least one N-acylated C ₂ -C ₁ r amino acids having a C ₂ -C ₂₂ acyl residue or at least one physiologically acceptable salt of an N-acylated C ₁ -C 5 amino acid having a C ₂ - C ₂₂ - Acy I rest in a total amount of 0.01 to 10 wt .-%, preferably 0.1 to 5 wt .-% and particularly preferably 0.5 to 2 wt .-%, each based on the total topical composition , is included.

In a further preferred embodiment, the yeast extracts preferred according to the invention as 5-lipoxygenase inhibitors are in amounts of from 0.001 to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.01 to 2% by weight and particularly preferably from 0.1 to 1% by weight, in each case based on the total topical composition used. A particularly preferred commercial product used is Drieline (INCI name "sorbitol, Yeast Extract"), available from Lanatech.

In a further preferred embodiment, the preferred 5-lipoxygenase inhibitor according to the invention is α-bisabolol in amounts of 0.001 to 5% by weight, preferably 0.01 to 2% by weight and particularly preferably 0.1 to 1% by weight. , in each case based on the total topical composition used.

In a further preferred embodiment, the 5-lipoxygenase inhibitor preferred according to the invention is α-lipoic acid in amounts of 0.001 to 5% by weight, preferably 0.01 to 2% by weight and more preferably 0.1 to 1% by weight. , in each case based on the total topical composition used. In a further preferred embodiment, the preferred according to the invention as 5-lipoxygenase inhibitors physiologically acceptable salts of sterol sulfates aus¬ selected from at least one physiologically acceptable salt of ß-sitosterol sulfate, ergosterol sulfate, stigmasterol sulfate, cholesterol sulfate and lanosterol sulfate. Particularly preferred are the salts of β-sitosterol sulfate. The sterol sulphate salts can be used both individually and in any desired mixtures. Particularly preferred is the sodium salt of β-sitosterol sulphate, eg. B. as a commercial product phytocohesins (INCI name "Sodium Beta Sitosteryl Sulfate"), available from the company Vincience. Preferred compositions according to the invention are characterized in that at least one physiologically acceptable sterolsulfate salt in a total amount of 0.001 to 5 wt .-%, preferably 0.01 to 2 wt .-% and particularly preferably 0.1 to 1 wt .-%, each based on the total topical composition, is included.

The physiologically tolerated salts of the abovementioned 5-lipoxygenase inhibitors are preferably selected from the ammonium, alkali metal, magnesium, calcium, aluminum, zinc and manganese salts. Particular preference is given to the sodium, potassium, magnesium, aluminum, zinc and manganese salts.

Preferred compositions according to the invention are characterized in that at least one inhibitor of leukotriene synthesis is present in a total amount of 0.0001-10.0% by weight, preferably 0.001-2.0% by weight, particularly preferably 0.05-1. 0 wt .-% and most preferably 0.1 to 0.5 wt .-%, each based on the total composition is included.

Particularly preferred modulators according to the invention of the release of cutaneous neurotransmitters, in particular particularly preferred stimulators of the β-endorphin synthesis, are selected from mixtures of at least one extract from the leaves of Mentha piperita and at least one extract from cocoa beans (Theobroma cacao) aqueous, glycolic or aqueous-glycolic preparations of these extract mixtures, in particular those which are obtainable under the trade name Caomint from the company Solabia, are particularly preferred. Another particularly preferred modulator of the release of cutaneous neuromediators is the dipeptide derivative N-acetyl-Tyr-Arg-hexyldecyl ester with the INCI name Acetyl Dipeptide-1 Cetyl Ester, which, for. B. as an aqueous preparation under the trade name Calmosensine from the company Sederma is available. Other preferred modulators of cutaneous release Neuromediators, in particular stimulators of β-endorphin secretion in keratinocytes, are extracts from the shells of cocoa beans (Theobroma cacao), for example obtainable as raw material caobromines, cao-orange, caospice and caophenol from Solabia. Further inventively preferred modulators of the release kuta¬ ner neuromediators, in particular stimulators of ß-endorphin secretion in keratinocytes, are selected from extracts of Helichrysum italicum, z. B. available under the trade names ArEAUmat Perpetua (INCI: Water, Helichrysum italicum extract) and ArEAUmat Perpetua Glycerine (INCI: Glycerol, Water, Helichrysum italicum extract) from Codif, extracts from Crithmum Maritimum, z. Available under the trade names ArEAUmat Samphira (Sea Fennel, INCI: Water, Crithmum Maritimum Extract) and Aroleat Samphira (INCI: Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride, Hydroge- nated Vegetable Oil, Crithmum Maritimum Extract) from Codif, extracts from Lavandula stoechas , z. B. available under the trade names ArEAUmat Lavanda (INCI: Water, Lavandula stoechas extract) and ArEAUmat Lavanda (INCI: Glycerol, Water, Lavandula stoechas extract) from Codif, extracts from Mentha piperita, z. Available under the tradenames Authenticals of Peppermint (Solabia) and Calmi- ska (Silab), glutamylamidoethyl indole, eg. B. available under the trade name Glistin from the company exsymol, a gewon¬ by microbial fermentation branched polysaccharide with rhamnose, galactose and glucuronic acid units with the INCI name Biosaccharide Gum-2, z. B. available under the trade name Rhamnosoft from the company Solabia, extracts from the seeds of Tephrosia Purpurea with the INCI name Tephrosia Purpurea Seed Extract, z. B. available under the trade name Tephroline (INCI: Water, Propylene Glycol, Tephrosia purpurea extract) from the company Vincience, mixtures of the oil of Mentha arvensis leaves, lime skin oil, cypress oil, lavender oil and Cistus Ladeniferus oil with the INCI Name Mentha Arvensis Leaf OiI and Citrus Medica Limonium (Lemon) Peel OiI and Cupressus Sempervirens OiI and Lavandula Hybrida OiI and Cistus Ladaniferus OiI, z. B. available under the trade name V-Tonic (Gattefosse), hexasaccharides according to FR 2842201, as well as any mixtures of vor¬ named active ingredients.

Preferred cosmetic compositions according to the invention are characterized in that at least one active substance for modulating the release of cutaneous neurotransmitters, in particular at least one stimulator of the β-endorphin secretion in keratinocytes, in a total amount of 0.000001-10% by weight, preferably 0 , 00001 - From 5 to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0.0001 to 1 to 2 to 3% by weight and, most preferably, from 0.001 to 0.005 to 0.01 to 0.1 to 0.5% by weight, based in each case on the content of active substance in the entire cosmetic composition, is included.

In order to increase the effect of the compositions according to the invention, in a preferred embodiment of the invention, further cosmetic active ingredients are contained. Preferred further active ingredients are humectants, in particular selected from the water-soluble polyhydric C ₂ -C ₉ -alkanols having 2 to 6 hydroxyl groups and / or the water-soluble polyethylene glycols, consisting of 3 to 20 ethylene oxide units, and mixtures thereof. These components are preferably selected from 1,2-propylene glycol, 2-methyl-1,3-propanediol, glycerol, butylene glycols such as 1,2-butylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol and 1,4-butylene glycol, pentylene glycols, hexane diols, such as 1, 6-hexanediol, hexanetriols such as 1, 2,6-hexanetriol, 1, 8-octanediol, dipropylene glycol, tripropylene glycol, diglycerol, triglycerol, erythritol, sorbitol and mixtures of the aforementioned substances. Suitable water-soluble polyethylene glycols, consisting of 3 to 20 ethylene oxide units, are selected from PEG-3, PEG-4, PEG-6, PEG-7, PEG-8, PEG-9, PEG-10, PEG-12, PEG- 14, PEG-16, PEG-18 and PEG-20, and mixtures thereof, with PEG-3 to PEG-8 being preferred. Sugar and certain sugar derivatives such as fructose, glucose, maltose, maltitol, mannitol, inositol, sucrose, trehalose, xylose, rhamnose and fucose may also be preferred according to the invention. Further preferred humectants are taurine, allantoin, (2-hydroxyethyl) urea, biosaccharide Gum-1 and glycosaminoglycans and their salts and / or esters, especially hyaluronic acid, its salts and its silanol derivatives.

Preferred cosmetic compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one humectant in a total amount of 0.1-25% by weight, preferably 1.0-15% by weight, particularly preferably 5-10% by weight. based on the total composition.

Further preferred active substances are selected from oligomers and polymers of amino acids, NC ₂ -C ₂₄ -acylamino acids, the esters and / or the physiologically tolerable salts of these substances, DNA or RNA oligonucleotides, natural betaine compounds, vitamins, Provitamins and vitamin precursors of groups A, B, C, E, H and K and the esters of the aforementioned substances, α-hydroxycarboxylic acids, α-ketocarboxylic acids, β-hydroxycarboxylic acids and their ester, lactone or salt form, flavonoids and flavonoid-rich plant extracts , Isoflavonoids and isoflavonoid rich plant extracts, polyphenols and polyphenol-rich plant extracts, ubiquinone and ubiquinol and derivatives thereof, naturally occurring xanthine derivatives, selected from caffeine, theophylline, theobromine and aminophylline, ectoine, anor¬ ganic and organic UV filter substances, self-tanning agents and skin lightening agents.

According to the invention, amino acid oligomers are peptides having 2 to 30, preferably 2 to 15, amino acids. The oligomers of the amino acids and / or the NC ₂ -C ₂₄ acylamino acids are preferably selected from di-, tri-, tetra-, penta-, hexa- or pentadecapeptides which may be acylated and / or esterified. Many of these amino acid oligomers stimulate collagen synthesis or are able to recruit cells of the immune system, such as mast cells and macrophages, which then induce, or are capable of, repair processes in the tissue via the release of growth factors, eg collagen synthesis to bind the sequence Arg-Phe-Lys into thrombospondin I (TSP-1) and thus to release active TGF-ß (tissue growth factor), which induces the synthesis of collagen in dermal fibroblasts. Such amino acid oligomers are preferably used as anti-aging agents.

According to preferred, optionally N-acylated and / or esterified dipeptides are acetyl-citrullyl-arginine (eg Exsy-algins of exsymol with the INCI name Acetyl Citrull Amido Arginine), Tyr-Arg (dipeptide-1), Val- Trp (dipeptide-2), Asn-Phe, Asp-Phe, N-palmitoyl-.beta.-Ala-His, N-acetyl-Tyr-Arg-hexyldecylester (eg, calmosensins from Sederma), carnosine (.beta.-A! a-His) and N-palmitoyl-Pro-Arg. Preference according to the invention, optionally N-acylated and / or esterified tripeptides are Gly-His-Lys, the z. B. under the name "Omega-CH activator" by the company GfN or in acylated form (N-palmitoyl-Gly-His-Lys) under the name Biopeptide CL of Sederma er¬ is available, but (in acylated form) also is a component of the product Matrixyl 3000 from Sederma The tripeptide Gly-His-Lys can also be used as the copper salt (Cu ²⁺ ) and can be obtained as such from ProCyte Corporation. The substitution of Gly in accordance with the invention is suitable for Ala, Leu and He The preferred amino acids according to the invention which can replace His or Lys include a side chain having a nitrogen atom which is predominantly charged at pH 6, eg Pro, Lys, Arg, His, desmosine and isodesmosine, more preferably Lys is replaced by Arg, Orn or citrulline. A further preferred tripeptide according to the invention is Gly-His-Arg (INCI name: tripeptide-3) and its derivative N-myristoyl-Gly-His-Arg, which, for. B. under the designation Collasyn 314-GR of Therapeutic Peptide Inc. is available; further preferred tripeptides according to the invention are selected from Lys-Val-Lys, Lys-Val-Dab (Dab = diaminobutyric acid), Lys-Phe-Lys, Lys-Ile-Lys, Dab-Val-Lys, Lys-Val-Orn, Lys-Val-Dap (Dap = diaminopropionic acid), Dap-Val-Lys, palmitoyl-Lys-Val-Lys, e.g. As sold by the company Pentapharm under the name ^® SYN -COLL, Lys-Pro-Val, Tyr-Tyr-Val, Tyr-Val-Tyr, Val-Tyr-Val (Tripeptide-2), Tripeptide-4 (z. ATPeptides via IMPAG), His-Ala-Om N-elaidoyl-Lys-Phe-Lys and N-acetyl-Arg-Lys-Arg-NH ₂ . According to preferred, optionally N-acylated and / or esterified tetrapeptides are selected from Rigin and Rigin-based tetrapeptides and ALAMCAT tetrapeptides. Rigin has the sequence Gly-Gln-Pro-Arg. Rigin-based tetrapeptides include the Rigin analogs and Rigin derivatives, in particular the invention particularly preferred N-palmitoyl-Gly-Gln-Pro-Arg, z. B. is available under the name Eyeliss of Sederma, but also forms part of the product Matrixyl 3000 of Sederma. The Rigin analogs include those in which the four amino acids are rearranged and / or in which a maximum of two amino acids are substituted by Rigin, z. For example, the sequence Ala-Gln-Thr-Arg. Preferably, at least one of the amino acids of the sequence has a Pro or Arg, and more preferably the tetrapeptide includes both Pro and Arg, and their order and position may vary. The substituting amino acids can be selected from any amino acid which is defined below. Particularly preferred rigin-based tetrapeptides include: Xaa-Xbb-Arg-Xcc, Xaa-Xbb-Xcc-Pro, Xaa-Xbb-Pro-Arg, Xaa-Xbb-Pro-Xcc, Xaa-Xbb-Xcc-Arg, wherein Xaa, Xbb and Xcc may be the same or different amino acids and wherein Xaa is selected from Gly and the amino acids which can substitute Gly, Xbb is selected from GIn and the amino acids which can substitute for GIn, Xcc is selected from Pro or Arg and the amino acids that can substitute Pro and Arg.

The preferred amino acids that can replace GIy include an aliphatic side chain, e.g. B. β-Ala, Ala, VaI, Leu, Pro, Sarcosine (Sar) and Isoleucine (He). The preferred amino acids that can replace GIn include a side chain having an amino group predominantly uncharged at neutral pH (pH 6-7), eg, Asn, Lys, Om, 5-hydroxyproline, citrulline, and canavanine. The preferred amino acids that can replace Arg include a side chain with a nitrogen atom predominantly charged at pH 6, such as Pro, Lys, His, desmosine, and isodesmosine.

According to the invention, Gly-Gln-Arg-Pro and Val-Val-Arg-Pro are preferred as Rigin analogues.

ALAMCAT tetrapeptides are tetrapeptides containing at least one amino acid with an aliphatic side chain, e.g. B. β-Ala, Ala, VaI, Leu, Pro, Sarcosine (Sar) and Isoleucine (He). Furthermore, ALAMCAT tetrapeptides contain at least one amino acid having a side chain with an amino group which is predominantly uncharged at neutral pH (pH 6-7), for example GIn, Asn, Lys, Om, 5-hydroxyproline, citrulline and canals. vanin. Furthermore, ALAMCAT tetrapeptides include at least one amino acid having a side chain with a nitrogen atom predominantly charged at pH 6, e.g. Arg, Pro, Lys, His, Desmosin and Isodesmosin. As the fourth amino acid, ALAMCAT tetrapeptides may contain any amino acid; however, preferably the fourth amino acid is also selected from the three abovementioned groups. Optionally N-acylated and / or esterified pentapep tides which are preferred according to the invention are selected from Lys-Thr-Thr-Lys-Ser and its N-acylated derivatives, more preferably N-palmitoyl-Lys-Thr-Thr-Lys-Ser which is available under the name Matrixyl from the company Sederma, furthermore N-palmitoyl-Tyr-Gly-Gly-Phe-Met, Val-Va-Arg-Pro-Pro, N-palmitoyl-Tyr-Gly-Gly-Phe- Leu, Gly-Pro-Phe-Pro-Leu and N-Benzyl-oxycarbonyl-Gly-Pro-Phe-Pro-Leu (the latter two are serine proteinase inhibitors for the inhibition of desquamation). Preference according to the invention, optionally N-acylated and / or esterified hexapeptides are Val-Gly-Val-Ala-Pro-Gly and its N-acylated derivatives, particularly preferably N-palmitoyl-Val-Gly-Val-Ala-Pro-Gly Acetyl-Hexapeptide-3 (Argireline from Lipotec), Hexapeptide-4 (eg Collasyn 6KS from Therapeutic Peptide Inc. (TPI)), Hexapeptide-5 (also referred to as Biopeptide EL from Sederma, eg Collasyn 6VY from TPI), myristoyl hexapeptide-5 (eg Collasyn 614VY from TPI), myristoyl hexapeptide-6 (eg Collasyn 614VG from TPI), hexapeptide-8 (eg Collasyn 6KS from TPI), myristoyl hexapeptide-8 (eg Collasyn Lipo-6KS from TPI), hexapeptide-9 (eg Collaxyl from Vincience) and hexapeptide-10 (eg Collaxyl from Vincience or Seriseline from Lipotec) , Ala-Arg-His-Leu-Phe-Trp (hexapeptide-1), acetyl hexapeptide-1 (e.g., modulene from Vincience), acetyl glutamyl hexapeptide-1 (e.g., SNAP-7 from Centerchem), hexapeptides -2 (eg melanostatine-DM from V incience), Ala-Asp-Leu-Lys-Pro-Thr (hexapeptide-3, e.g. Peptide 02 from Vincience), Val-Val-Arg-Pro-Pro-Pro, hexapeptide-4 (eg Collasyn 6KS of Therapeutic Peptide Inc. (TPI)), hexapeptide-5 (e.g., Collasyn 6VY from TPI), myristoyl hexapeptide-5 (e.g., Collasyn 614VY from TPI), myristoyl hexapeptide-6 (e.g., Collasyn 614VG from TPI), Ala-Arg-His-methylnorleucine-homophenylalanine-Trp (hexapeptide-7), hexapeptide-8 (eg Collasyn 6KS from TPI), myristoyl hexapeptide-8 (eg Collasyn Lipo-6KS from TPI) Hexapeptide-9 (eg, Collaxyl from Vincience), Hexapeptide-10 (eg, Collaxyl from Vincience, or Seriseline from Lipotec) and Hexapeptide-11 (eg, Peptamide-6 from Arch Personal Care). An inventively preferred pentadecapeptide is z. As the raw material Vinci 01 by Vincience (Pentadecapeptide-1). Particularly preferred according to the invention is the combination of N-palmitoyl-Gly-His-Lys and N-palmitoyl-Gly-Gln-Pro-Arg, as obtainable, for example, in the raw material Matrixyl 3000 from Sederma.

The physiologically acceptable salts of the inventively preferred active ingredients containing acid groups and can form salts are selected from the ammonium, alkali metal, magnesium, calcium, aluminum, zinc and manganese salts. Preferred are the sodium, potassium, magnesium, aluminum, zinc and manganese salts.

The polymers of the amino acids and / or the NC ₂ -C ₂₄ -acylamino acids are selected from plant and animal protein hydrolysates and / or proteins. Animal protein hydrolysates are z. B. elastin, collagen, keratin, silk and milk protein protein hydrolyzates, which may also be present in the form of salts. Vegetable protein hydrolysates, eg. Soy, wheat, almonds, peas, potato and rice protein hydrolysates. Corresponding commercial products are z. B. DiaMin® ^® (Diamalt) Gluadin ^® (Cognis), Lexein ^® (Inolex) and Crotein ^® (Croda). Particularly preferred are soy protein hydrolysates, e.g. For example, the commercial products Phytokine from Coletica or Ridulisse C from Silab.

Naturally, protein hydrolysates may also contain monomeric amino acids and oligopeptides; their composition is usually undefined. Also possible is the use of acyl derivatives of protein hydrolysates, z. In the form of their fatty acid condensation products. Corresponding commercial products are z. B. Lamepon ^® (Cognis), Gluadin ^® (Cognis), Lexein ^® (Inolex), Crolastin ^® ^® or Crotein (Croda).

Cationized protein hydrolysates can also be used according to the invention. Preference is given to cationic protein hydrolysates whose protein content on which they are based has a molecular weight of from 100 to 25,000 daltons, preferably from 250 to 5,000 daltons. Farther are cationic protein hydrolyzates quaternized amino acids and their Gemi¬ cal understand. Furthermore, the cationic protein hydrolysates may also be further derivatized. Typical examples of cationic protein hydrolyzates and derivatives used in accordance with the invention are some of those listed under the INCI names in the International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook, (seventh edition 1997, The Cosmetic, Toiletry, and Fragrance Association 1101 17 ^th Street, NW Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Rice Protein, Cocodimium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Silicon, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Cocodimonium Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl SiCl Amino Acids, Hydroxypropyl Arginine Lauryl / Myristyl Ether HCl. Very particular preference is given to the cationic protein hydrolysates and derivatives based on plants.

In a further preferred embodiment, the polymers of the amino acids are selected from DNA repair enzymes.

DNA repair enzymes preferred according to the invention are photolyase and T4 endonuclease V, the latter being abbreviated to "T4N5" below. These two enzymes are already known in the art as so-called DNA repair enzymes. DNA repair is defined as the cleavage or removal of UV-induced pyrimidine dimers from the DNA.

Photolyase is the abbreviation for deoxyribodipyrimidine photolyase or DNA photolyase, an enzyme with the classification number EC 4.1.99.3. A particularly effi¬ tient photolyase comes from Anacystis nidulans, a phototrophic marine microorganism. The photolyase from A. nidulans is now obtained in technically relevant quantities from E. coli. Photolyase relies on light for activation. The enzyme T4 endonuclease V is produced by the denV gene of bacteriophage T4 and belongs to the phosphodiesterases which hydrolytically cleave the nucleic acids at the (5 ^" -3 ^" ) bond. T4N5 is also active without the influence of light.

Particularly preferred according to the invention is the use of liposome-encapsulated DNA repair enzymes. Liposome-encapsulated photolyase is commercially available for. B. under the Pro¬ duktbezeichnung Photosome ™, liposome-encapsulated T4N5 z. B. under the name Ultrasome ™ from AGI Dermatics, USA, available. Preferred compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one of the raw materials Photosome ™ or Ultrasome ™ in a total amount of 0.1-10% by weight, preferably 0.5-5.0% by weight and more preferably 1 , 0 -4.0 wt .-%, each based on the total composition. Further preferred compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one oligomer or polymer of amino acids, NC ₂ -C ₂₄ -acylamino acids and / or the esters and / or the physiologically tolerable salts of these substances in a total amount of 0.000001-5 Wt .-%, preferably 0.00001 - 2 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.0001 - 1 wt .-% and most preferably 0.005 - 0.5 wt .-%, each based on the content of active substance in the whole Composition, included.

In a further preferred embodiment, the monomers, oligomers and polymers of amino acids, NC ₂ -C ₂₄ -acylamino acids, the esters and / or the physiologically tolerable salts of these substances are present in supported form, in particular applied to finely divided, pulverulent substrates such as silica gel , in particular Aerosil types, talc, microsponges, modified starches and starch derivatives, crystalline cellulose, cellulose powders, lactoglobulin derivatives, polymer particles of nylon, polyolefins, polycarbonates, polyurethanes, polyacrylates, (meth) acrylate or (meth) acrylate-vinylidene copolymers may be crosslinked, polyesters, polyamides, polystyrenes, Teflon and silicones. A particularly preferred raw material of this type are the Vegetal Filling Spheres of Coletica.

In a further preferred embodiment, the compositions according to the invention contain at least one DNA oligonucleotide or an RNA oligonucleotide in addition to the extract of the beans of cocoa (Theobroma cacao) and the extract of the leaves of peppermint (Mentha piperita).

According to the invention, an oligonucleotide is understood as meaning polymers of from 2 to 20, preferably from 2 to 10, mononucleotides which, like polynucleotides and nucleic acids, are linked by phosphoric diester bridges. The nucleotides be¬ from nucleobases (usually pyrimidine or purine derivatives), pentoses (usually D-ribofuranose or 2-deoxy-D-ribofuranose in ß-N-glycosidic bond to the nucleobase) and phosphoric acid. The mononucleotides are, for example, adenosine phosphates, cytidine phosphates, guanosine phosphates, uridine phosphates and thymidine phosphates, in particular CMP (cytidine 5'-monophosphate), UDP (uridine 5'-diphosphate), ATP (adenosine 5'-triphosphate) and GTP (guanosine 5'-triphosphate). An oligonucleotide particularly preferred according to the invention is the thymidine dinucleotide.

Preferred compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one DNA oligonucleotide or RNA oligonucleotide in a total amount of 0.0001-5 wt.%, Preferably 0.001-1.0 wt.% And particularly preferably 0.01 - 0.5 wt .-%, based on the total composition.

Naturally preferred natural betaine compounds according to the invention are naturally occurring compounds with the atomic grouping R ₃ N ⁺ -CH ₂ -X-COO ^"" according to IUPAC Rule C-816.1. So-called betaine surfactants (synthetic) do not fall under the betaine compounds used according to the invention, nor any other zwitterionic compounds in which the positive charge on N or P and the negative charge formally reside on O, S, B or C, but which are not those of IUPAC. Comply with rule C-816.1. According to the invention preferred betaine compounds are betaine (Me ₃ N ⁺ -CH ₂ -COO ^" ) and carnitine (Me ₃ N ⁺ -CH ₂ -CHOH-CH ₂ -COO-), each with Me = methyl.

Preferred compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one natural betaine compound in a total amount of 0.05 to 5 wt.%, Preferably 0.1 to 3 wt.%, Particularly preferably 0.5 to 2 wt. in each case based on the total composition.

In a further preferred embodiment, the compositions according to the invention comprise at least one vitamin, provitamin or a compound designated as vitamin precursor from the vitamin groups A, B, C, E, H and K and the esters of the abovementioned substances.

The group of substances called vitamin A includes retinol (vitamin A ₁ ) and 3,4-didehydroretinol (vitamin A ₂ ). The ß-carotene is the provitamin of retinol. As vitamin A component according to the invention, for example, vitamin A acid and its esters, vitamin A aldehyde and vitamin A alcohol and its esters, such as retinyl palmitate and retinyl acetate into consideration. The compositions according to the invention preferably contain the vitamin A component in quantities of 0.05-1% by weight, based on the total composition.

The vitamin B group or the vitamin B complex include, among others Vitamin B _1, thiamine trivial name, chemical designation 3 - [(4 ^{^{'-amino-2'-methyl-5'}} -pyrimidinyl) methyl] -5- (2-hydroxyethyl) -4-methylthiazolium chloride. Thiamine hydrochloride is preferably used in amounts of from 0.05 to 1% by weight, based on the total composition.

Vitamin B ₂ , common name riboflavin, chemical name 7,8-dimethyl-10- (1-D-ribityl) -benzo [g] pteridine-2,4 (3 / - /, 10 / - /) - dione. Riboflavin or its derivatives are preferably used in amounts of from 0.05 to 1% by weight, based on the total composition.

Vitamin B ₃ . Under this name, the compounds nicotinic acid and nicotinamide (niacinamide) are performed. Preferred according to the invention is the nicotinic acid amide, which is preferably present in the agents according to the invention in amounts of from 0.05 to 1% by weight, based on the total composition.

Vitamin B ₅ (pantothenic acid and panthenol). Panthenol is preferably used. Derivatives of panthenol which can be used according to the invention are, in particular, the esters and ethers of panthenol and also cationically derivatized panthenols. In a further preferred embodiment of the invention, instead of and in addition to pantothenic acid or panthenol, it is also possible to use derivatives of 2-furanone having the general structural formula (I).

(D

Preference is given to the 2-furanone derivatives in which the substituents R ¹ to R ⁶ independently of one another are a hydrogen atom, a hydroxyl radical, a methyl, methoxy, aminomethyl or hydroxymethyl radical, a saturated or one or two unsaturated, linear or branched C ₂ -C ₄ -hydrocarbon radical, a saturated or mono- or diunsaturated, branched or linear mono-, di- or trihydroxy-C ₂ -C ₄ -hydrocarbon radical or a saturated or mono- or diunsaturated one , branched or linear mono-, di- or triamino- Represent C ₂ -C ₄ hydrocarbon radical. Particularly preferred derivatives are the commercially available substances dihydro-3-hydroxy-4,4-dimethyl-2 (3H) -furanone with the trivial name pantolactone (Merck), 4-hydroxymethyl-γ-butyrolactone (Merck), 3 , 3-dimethyl-2-hydroxy-γ-butyrolactone (Aldrich) and 2,5-dihydro-5-methoxy-2-furanone (Merck), expressly including all stereoisomers. The inventively extraordinarily preferred 2-furanone derivative is pantolactone (dihydro-3-hydroxy-4,4-dimethyl-2 (3H) -furanone), wherein in formula (I) R ^{1 is} a hydroxyl group, R ² represents a hydrogen atom, R ³ and R ^{4 represent} a methyl group, and R ⁵ and R ^{6 represent} a hydrogen atom. The stereoisomer (R) -pantolactone is formed during the degradation of pantothenic acid.

The said compounds of the vitamin B ₅ type and the 2-furanone derivatives are present in the compositions according to the invention in a total amount of 0.05 to 5 wt.%, Preferably 0.1 to 3 wt.%, Particularly preferably 0.5 to 2% by weight, in each case based on the total composition.

Vitamin B ₆ , which is understood hereunder not a uniform substance, but the known under the common names pyridoxine, pyridoxamine and pyridoxal derivatives of 5-hydroxymethyl-2-methylpyridin-3-ol. Vitamin B ₆ is preferably present in the compositions according to the invention in amounts of 0.0001 to 1.0% by weight, in particular in amounts of 0.001 to 0.01% by weight.

Vitamin B ₇ (biotin), also known as vitamin H or "skin vitamin". Biotin is (3aS, 4S, 6aR) -2-oxohexahydrothienol [3,4-c / i-imidazole-4-valeric acid. Biotin is preferably present in the compositions according to the invention in amounts of from 0.0001 to 1.0% by weight, in particular in amounts of from 0.001 to 0.01% by weight.

The vitamin C group includes vitamin C (ascorbic acid) and its derivatives, in particular the esters of ascorbic acid with organic and inorganic acids and their salts, and also the acetals with glucose or other sugars, in particular ascorbyl glucoside. Vitamin C and / or at least one of its derivatives is preferably used in a total amount of from 0.1 to 3% by weight, based on the total composition. The use of the derivatives ascorbyl palmitate, stearate, dipalmitate, acetate, Mg ascorbyl phosphate, Na ascorbyl phosphate, sodium and magnesium ascorbate, disodium ascorbyl phosphate and sulfate, potassium ascorbyl tocopheryl phosphate, chitosan ascorbate or ascorbyl glucoside may be preferred. The use of at least one member of the vitamin C group in combination with tocopherols and / or other members of the vitamin E group may also be preferred.

The vitamin E group includes tocopherol, in particular α-tocopherol, and its derivatives Deri. Preferred derivatives are in particular the esters, such as tocopheryl acetate, nicotinate, phosphate, succinate, linoleate, oleate, tocophereth-5, tocophereth-10, tocophereth-12, tocophereth-18, tocophereth-50 and tocopherol. Tocopherol and its derivatives are preferably contained in a total amount of 0.05 - 1 wt .-%, based on the total composition.

Vitamin F is usually understood as meaning essential fatty acids, in particular linoleic acid, linolenic acid and arachidonic acid.

Vitamin H is another name for biotin or vitamin B ₇ (see above). The fat-soluble vitamins of the vitamin K group, which the backbone of 2-methyl-1, is 4-naphthoquinone based belong phylloquinone (vitamin Ki), quinone Farno- or menaquinone-7 (vitamin K2) and menadione (vitamin K ₃ ). Vitamin K is preferably present in amounts of from 0.0001 to 1.0% by weight, in particular from 0.01 to 0.5% by weight, in each case based on the total composition.

Vitamin A palmitate (retinyl palmitate), panthenol, pantolactone, nicotinamide, pyridoxine, pyridoxamine, pyridoxal, biotin, ascorbyl palmitate, acetate, Mg ascorbyl phosphate, Na ascorbyl phosphate, sodium and magnesium ascorbate and the tocopherol esters, especially tocopheryl acetate, are particularly preferred according to the invention.

In a further preferred embodiment, the compositions according to the invention contain at least one α-hydroxycarboxylic acid, α-ketocarboxylic acid or β-hydroxycarboxylic acid or their ester, lactone or salt form. Preferred α-hydroxycarboxylic acids or α-ketocarboxylic acids according to the invention are glycolic acid, lactic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid, 2-hydroxybutanoic acid, 2,3-dihydroxypropanoic acid, 2-hydroxypentanoic acid, 2-hydroxyhexanoic acid, 2-hydroxyheptanoic acid, 2-hydroxyoctanoic acid, 2-hydroxydecanoic acid, 2-hydroxydodecanoic acid, 2-hydroxytetradecanoic acid, 2-hydroxyhexadecanoic acid, 2-hydroxyoctadecanoic acid, mandelic acid, 4-hydroxymandelic acid, malic acid, erythraric acid, threaric acid, glucaric acid, galactaric acid, mannaric acid, gular acid, 2-hydroxy-2- methylsuccinic acid, gluconic acid, pyruvic acid, glucuronic acid and galacturonic acid. Particularly preferred α-hydroxycarboxylic acids are lactic acid, citric acid, glycolic acid and gluconic acid. A particularly preferred β-hydroxycarboxylic acid is salicylic acid. The esters of said acids are preferably selected from the methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, butyl, amyl, pentyl, hexyl, 2-ethylhexyl, octyl, decyl, dodecyl and hexadecyl esters. Particularly preferred compositions according to the invention are characterized in that at least one α-hydroxycarboxylic acid, α-ketocarboxylic acid and / or β-hydroxycarboxylic acid and / or at least one derivative thereof are present in a total amount of 0.1-10% by weight. , Preferably 0.5 to 5 wt .-%, in each case based on the total composition, is contained.

In a further preferred embodiment, the compositions according to the invention contain at least one flavonoid or at least one flavonoid-rich plant extract.

The flavonoids preferred according to the invention include the glycosides of the flavones, the flavanones, the 3-hydroxyflavones (flavonols), the aurones and the isoflavones. Particularly preferred flavonoids are selected from naringin (aurantiin, Naήngenin-7-rhamnoglucosid), α-glucosylrutin, α-glucosylmyricetin, α-glucosylisoquercetin, α-glucosyl-cerecetin, isoquercitrin (quercetin-3-O-β-D-glucofuranoside ), Hesperidin (3 ', 5,7-trihydroxy-4'-methoxyflavanone-7-rhamnoglucoside, hesperetin-7-O-rhamnoglucoside), neohesperidin, rutin (S.S'''.δJ-pentahydroxyflavone-S-rhamnoglucoside, Quercetin-3-rhamnoglucoside), troxerutin (3,5-dihydroxy-3 ', 4', 7-tris (2-hydroxyethoxy) -flavone-3- (6-O- (6-deoxy-α-L-man-) nopyranosyl) -β-D-glucopyranoside)), monoxerutin (3,3 ', 4', 5-tetrahydroxy-7- (2-hydroxyethoxy) flavone-3- (6-O- (6-deoxy-α -L-mannopyranosyl) -β-D-glucopyranoside)), diosmin (3 ', 4', 7-trihydroxy-5-methoxyflavanone-7-rhamnoglucoside), eriodictin, apigenin-7-glucoside (4 ', 5,7- Trihydroxyflavone-7-glucoside), (S) - and (R) -iodiodictyol-6-C-.beta.-D-glucopyranoside, orientin, isoorientin. Vitexin, isovitexin, vicenin-2, shankoside, isoschaftoside and luteolin. Extremely preferred flavonoids according to the invention are α-glucosylrutin, naringin, apigenin-7-glucoside, α-glucosylquercetin, isoquercitrin and orientin. Also preferred are the constructed from two flavonoid biflavonoids, z. B. occur in gingko species. Other preferred flavonoids are the chalcones, especially phloricin, neohesperidin dihydrochalcone, aspalathin and nothofagin. Particularly preferred compositions according to the invention are characterized in that at least one flavonoid and / or at least one flavonoid-rich plant extract in a total amount of 0.0001 to 1 wt .-%, preferably 0.0005 to 0.5 wt .-% and particularly preferably 0.001 to 0.1 wt .-%, each based on the flavonoid active substance in the total composition is included. In a further preferred embodiment, the compositions according to the invention contain at least one isoflavonoid or at least one isoflavonoid-rich plant extract. The isoflavones and the isoflavone glycosides are counted at this point as isoflavonoids.

For the purposes of the present invention, isoflavones are to be understood as meaning substances which are hydrogenation, oxidation or substitution products of 3-phenyl-4H-1-benzopyran, hydrogenation of which may be in the 2,3-position of the carbon skeleton, oxidation under Formation of a carbonyl group in the 4-position may be present, and by substitution of the replacement of one or more hydrogen atoms by hydroxy or methoxy groups to understand. The isoflavones preferred according to the invention include, for example, daidzein, genistein, prunetin, biochanin, orobol, santal, pratense, irigenin, glycitein, biochanin A and formononetin. Particularly preferred isoflavones are daidzein, genistein, glycitein and formononetin. In the isoflavone glycosides which are preferred according to the invention, the isoflavones are glycosidically linked to at least one sugar via at least one hydroxy group. Suitable sugars are mono- or oligosaccharides, in particular D-glucose, D-galactose, D-glucuronic acid, D-galacturonic acid, D-xylose, D-apiose, L-rhamnose, L-arabinose and rutinose. Particularly preferred isoflavone glycosides according to the invention are daidzin and genistin.

It is furthermore preferred according to the invention if the isoflavones and / or their glycosides are contained in the preparations as constituents of a substance mixture obtained from a plant, in particular a vegetable extract. Such vegetable substance mixtures can be obtained, for example, by pressing or extracting from plants such as soy, in particular from the soybean seeds, red clover or chickpeas, in a manner familiar to the person skilled in the art. Particular preference is given to using isoflavones or isoflavone glycosides in the form of soya-derived extracts in the preparations according to the invention, as described, for example, under the product name Soy Protein Isolate SPI (Protein Technology International, St. Louis) or Soy Phytochemicals Concentrate SPC (Archer Daniels Midland, Decatur) are commercially available. Another particularly preferred isoflavonoid-rich plant extract is apple seed extract, in particular the commercial product Ederline from Seporga. Ederline contains phytohormones, isoflavonoids, phytosterols, triterpenoids, tocopherols and natural waxes.

Particularly preferred compositions according to the invention are characterized in that at least one isoflavonoid and / or at least one isoflavonoid richer Plant extract in a total amount of 0.00001 to 1 wt .-%, preferably 0.0005 to 0.5 wt .-% and particularly preferably 0.001 to 0.1 wt .-%, each based on the Isoflavonoidaktivsubstanz in the total composition, is included.

In a further preferred embodiment, the compositions according to the invention additionally comprise at least one polyphenol or a polyphenol-rich plant extract.

According to the invention, polyphenols are aromatic compounds which contain at least two phenolic hydroxyl groups in the molecule. These include the three dihydroxybenzenes catechol, resorcinol and hydroquinone, as well as phloroglucin, pyrogallol and hexahydroxybenzene. In nature, free and etherified polyphenols occur, for example, in floral dyes (anthocyanidins, flavones), in tannins (catechins, tannins), as lichen or fern ingredients (usnic acid, acyl polyphenols), in lignins and as gallic acid derivatives , Preferred polyphenols are flavones, catechols, usnic acid, and tannins are the derivatives of gallic acid, digallic acid and digalloylgallic acid. Particularly preferred polyphenols are the monomeric catechins, that is, the derivatives of flavan-3-ols, and leucoanthocyanidins, that is, the derivatives of leucoanthocyanidins which preferably carry phenolic hydroxyl groups in the ω, ω '' position, preferably epicatechin and epigallocatechin, and the resulting by self-condensation tannins. Such tannins are preferably not used in isolated pure substance but as extracts of tannin-rich plant parts, eg. Extracts of catechu, quebracho, oak bark and pine bark, as well as other tree bark, leaves of green tea (camellia sinensis) and mate. Also particularly preferred are the tannins.

A particularly preferred polyphenol-rich cosmetic active ingredient is the commercial product Sepivinol R, an extract of red wine, available from Seppic. Another particularly preferred polyphenol-rich cosmetic active ingredient is the commercial product Crodarom Chardonnay, an extract from the kernels of the Chardonnay grape, obtainable from Croda.

Particularly preferred compositions according to the invention are characterized in that at least one polyphenol and / or at least one polyphenol-rich plant extract are present in a total amount of 0.001 to 10% by weight, preferably 0.005 to 5% by weight and more preferably 0.01 to 3 wt .-%, in each case based on the Polyphe- nolaktivsubstanz in the entire composition. In a further preferred embodiment, the compositions according to the invention comprise at least one ubiquinone or a ubiquinol or derivatives thereof. Ubiquinols are the reduced form of ubiquinones. The preferred ubiquinones according to the invention have the formula (II):

(H)

with n = 6, 7, 8, 9 or 10.

Particularly preferred is the ubiquinone of formula (II) with n = 10, also known as coenzyme Q10.

Particularly preferred compositions according to the invention are characterized in that at least one ubiquinone and / or at least one ubiquinol and / or at least one derivative of these substances in a total amount of 0.0001 to 1 wt .-%, preferably 0.001 to 0.5 wt. % and more preferably 0.005 to 0.1% by weight, in each case based on the total composition.

In a further preferred embodiment, the compositions according to the invention contain at least one naturally occurring xanthine derivative, in particular a naturally occurring di- or trialkylxanthine, preferably selected from caffeine, theophylline, theobromine and aminophylline.

Preferred compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one naturally occurring xanthine derivative in a total amount of 0.0001 to 1% by weight, preferably 0.001 to 0.5% by weight and more preferably 0.005 to 0.1% by weight. %, in each case based on the total composition.

In a further preferred embodiment, the compositions according to the invention contain ectoine. Ectoin is the common name for 2-methyl-1, 4,5,6-tetrahydro- pyrimidin-4-carboxylate. Particularly preferred compositions according to the invention are characterized in that ectoine is used in amounts of from 0.0001 to 1% by weight, preferably from 0.001 to 0.5% by weight and particularly preferably from 0.005 to 0.01% by weight, in each case on the entire composition, is included.

In a further preferred embodiment, the compositions according to the invention contain at least one inorganic and / or at least one organic UV filter substance.

The UV filter substances are liquids which are liquid or crystalline at room temperature and are capable of absorbing ultraviolet rays and of absorbing the absorbed energy in the form of longer-wave radiation, eg. B. to give off heat again. One differentiates between UVA filters and UVB filters. The UVA and UVB filters can be used individually or in mixtures. The use of filter mixtures is preferred according to the invention.

The organic UV filters used according to the invention are selected from the derivatives of dibenzoylmethane, cinnamic acid esters, diphenylacrylic acid esters, benzophenone, camphor, p-aminobenzoic acid esters, o-aminobenzoic acid esters, salicylic acid esters, benzimidazoles, symmetrically or asymmetrically substituted 1,3,5-triazines, mono ¬ mers and oligomeric 4,4-Diarylbutadiencarbonsäureestern and -carbonsäureamiden, Ketotricyclo (5.2.1.0) decane, Benzalmalonsäureestern, benzoxazole and any mixtures of the above components. The organic UV filters can be oil-soluble or water-soluble. The benzoxazole derivatives are advantageously present in dissolved form in the cosmetic preparations according to the invention. However, it may also be advantageous if the benzoxazole derivatives are present in a pigmentary, ie undissolved form, for example in particle sizes of 10 nm to 300 nm. According to the invention particularly preferred oil-soluble UV filters are 1- (4-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4'-methoxyphe- nyl) propane-1, 3-dione (Parsol ^® 1789), 1-phenyl-3- (4 '-isopropylphenyl) propane-1, 3-dione, 3- (4 ^* methylbenzylidene) -D, L-camphor, 4- (dimethylamino) benzoic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester, 4- (dimethylamino) benzoic acid 2-octyl ester Ethyl 4- (dimethylamino) benzoate, 2-ethylhexyl 4-methoxycinnamate, propyl 4-methoxycinnamate, isopentyl 4-methoxycinnamate, 2-ethylhexyl 2-cyano-3,3-phenylcinnamate (octocrylene), salicylic acid-2 ethylhexyl ester, salicylic acid 4-isopropylbenzyl ester, salicylic acid homo-ethyl ester (3,3,5-trimethylcyclohexylsalicylate), 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxy-4'-methylbenzophenone, 2,2'-dihydroxy 4-methoxybenzophenone, 2- (4'-diethylamino-2'-hydroxybenzoyl) -benzoic acid hexyl ester (also: aminobenzophenone) non, available under the name Uvinul A Plus from BASF), 4-methoxy-benzmalonsäuredi-2-ethylhexylester, bound to polymers UV filters, eg. B. 3- (4- (2,2-bis-ethoxycarbonylvinyl) phenoxy) propenyl) -methoxysiloxan / dimethylsiloxane Copo- lymer with the INCI name Dimethicodiethylbenzal malonate (CAS no. 207574-74- 1, Parsol ^® SLX), triazine derivatives, such as. B. 2,4-bis - {[4- (2-ethyl-hexyloxy) -2-hydroxy] -phenyl} -6- (4-methoxyphenyl) -1, 3,5-triazine (INCI: Bis- Ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, available) under the name Tinosorb S from CIBA, dioctylbutylamidotriazone (INCI: Diethylhexyl Butamido Triazone, available) under the name Uvasorb HEB from Sigma 3V ^®, 2,4,6-trianilino- (p-carbo-2'- ethyl-1'-hexyloxy) -1, 3,5-triazine (ethylhexyl Tria¬ zone, Uvinul ^® T 150), 2- [4,6-bis (2,4-dimethylphenyl) -1, 3,5-triazine -2-yl] -5- (octyloxy) phenol (CAS No .: 2725-22-6), 2,4-bis [5-1 (di-methylpropyl) benzoxazol-2-yl (4-phenyl) imino] -6- (2-ethylhexyl) imino-1, 3,5-triazine (CAS no. 288254-16-0, Uvasorb K2A ^® from 3V Sigma), the benzotriazole derivatives of 2,2'-methylene-bis- (6- (2H-benzotriazol-2-yl) -4- (1,1,3,3-tetramethylbutyl) -phenol) [Tinosorb M (Ciba)], 2,2'-methyl-bis- [6 (2H-benzotriazol-2-yl) -4- (methyl) phenol] (MIXXIM BB / 200 from Fairmount Chemical), 2- (2'-hydroxy-3 ', 5'-di-t-amylphenyl) benzotriazole ( CAS No .: 025973-551), 2- (2'-hydroxy-5'-o ctylphenyl) benzotriazole (CAS no. 003147-75-9), 2- (2'-hydroxy-5'-methylphenyl) benzotriazole (CAS No. 2440-22-4), 2- (2H-benzotriazol-2-yl) -4-methyl-6 - [2-methyl-3- [1,3,3,3-tetramethyl-1 - ((trimethylsilyl) oxy] disiloxanyl) propyl] phenol (CAS No .: 155633-54-8) with the INCI DESCRIPTION Drometrizole Trisiloxanes, 2,4-bis - {[4- (2-ethyl-hexyloxy) -2-hydroxy] -phenyl} -6- (4-methoxyphenyl) -1, 3,5-triazine (INCI : bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine or Aniso triazine, available as Tinosorb S from CIBA ^®), 2,4-bis - {[4- (3-sulfonato) -2-hydroxy-propyloxy) -2-hydroxy] phenyl} -6- (4-methoxyphenyl) -1, 3,5-triazine sodium salt, 2,4-bis - {[4- (3- (2-propyloxy) -2-hydroxy-propyloxy) -2-hydroxy] - phenyl} -6- (4-methoxyphenyl) -1,3,5-triazine, 2,4-bis - {[4- (2-ethyl-hexyloxy) -2-hydroxy] -phenyl} -6- [ 4- (2-methoxyethylcarboxyl) -phenylamino] -1, 3,5-triazine, 2,4-bis - {[4- (3- (2-propyloxy) -2-hydroxy-propyloxy) -2-hydroxy ] -phenyl} -6- [4- (ethylcarboxyl) -phenylamino] -1, 3,5-triazine, 2,4-bis - {[4- (2-ethyl-hexyloxy) -2-hydroxy] -phenyl} -6- (1-methyl- pyrrol-2-yl) -1, 3,5-triazine, 2,4-bis {[4-tris (trimethylsiloxy-silylpropyloxy) -2-hydroxy] -phenyl} -6- (4-methoxyphenyl) -1, 3,5-triazine, 2,4-bis - {[4- (2-methylpropenyloxy) -2-hydroxy] -phenyl} -6- (4-methoxyphenyl) -1, 3,5-triazine, 2,4- Bis - {[4- (1 ', 1 ^L , 1', 3 ^I , 5 ', 5 ^L , 5 ^I -Heptamethylsiloxy-2-methyl-propyloxy) -2-hydroxy] -phenyl} - 6- (4- methoxyphenyl) -1, 3,5-triazine and mixtures of the said components.

Preferred water-soluble UV filters are 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid, phenylene-1, 4-bis (2-benzimidazyl) -3,3'-5,5'-tetrasulfonic acid and its alkali metal, alkaline earth metal, Ammonium, alkylammonium, alkanolammonium and glucammonium salts, in particular the sulfonic acid itself with the INCI name phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid (CAS No. 27503-81-7), for example under the trade name Eusolex 232 at Merck or under Neo Heliopan Hydro is available from Symrise, and the phenylene-1 ^ -bis ^ -benzimidazyO-S.S'-δ.δ'-tetrasulfonic acid bis-sodium salt with the INCI name Disodium Phenyl Dibenzimidazole Tetrasulfonate (CAS No .: 180898-37-7), which is available, for example, under the trade name Neo Heliopan AP from Symrise, sulfonic acid derivatives of benzophenones, preferably 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone-5-sulfonic acid and its salts, sulfonic acid derivatives of Benzylidencamphers, such as. B. 4- (2-oxo-3-bomylidenemethyl) benzenesulfonic acid and 2-methyl-5- (2-oxo-3-bornyliden) sulfonic acid and its salts with the INCI name Terephthalydene Dicampher Sulfonic Acid (CAS.No. .: 90457-82-2, available as Mexoryl SX from Chimex).

Some of the oil-soluble UV filters can themselves serve as solvents or solubilizers for other UV filters. Thus, solutions of the UV-A filter 1- (4-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4'methoxyphenyl) propane-1, 3-dione (z. B. Parsol ^® 1789) can for example be different in ver¬ UV Make -B filters. Therefore, in a further preferred embodiment, the compositions according to the invention contain 1- (4-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4'-methoxyphenyl) propane-1,3-dione in combination with at least one UV-B filter of 4-methoxycinnamic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester, 2-cyano-3,3-phenylcinnamic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester, 2-ethylhexyl salicylate and 3,3,5-trimethylcyclohexylsalicylate. In these combinations, the weight ratio of UV-B filter to 1- (4-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4'-methoxyphenyl) propane-1,3-dione is between 1: 1 and 10: 1, preferably between 2: 1 and 8: 1, the molar ratio being between 0.3 and 3.8, preferably between 0.7 and 3.0.

The inventively preferred inorganic photoprotective pigments are finely dispersed or colloidally disperse metal oxides and metal salts, for example titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, iron oxide, aluminum oxide, cerium oxide, zirconium oxide, silicates (talc) and barium sulfate. The particles should have an average diameter of less than 100 nm, preferably between 5 and 50 nm and in particular between 15 and 30 nm, so-called nanopigments. They may have a spherical shape, but it is also possible to use those particles which have an ellipsoidal or otherwise deviating shape from the spherical shape. The pigments can also be surface-treated, ie hydrophilized or hydrophobized. Typical examples are coated titanium dioxides, such as. Example, titanium dioxide T 805 (Degussa) or Eusolex ^® T2000 (Merck). Suitable hydrophobic coating agents are in particular silicones and in particular trialkoxyoctylsilanes or simethicones. Particularly preferred are titanium dioxide and zinc oxide.

Preferred compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one organic UV filter substance in a total amount of 0.1-30% by weight, preferably 0.5-20% by weight, more preferably 1.0-0.0% by weight. % and most preferably 2 or 3 - 7 wt .-%, each based on the total composition.

Preferred compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they comprise at least one inorganic UV filter substance in a total amount of 0.1-15% by weight, preferably 0.5-10% by weight, more preferably 1-5% by weight and extraordinarily preferably 2 to 4% by weight, based in each case on the total composition.

In a further preferred embodiment, the compositions according to the invention contain at least one self-tanning active ingredient. Self-tanning active ingredients preferred according to the invention are selected from dihydroxyacetone and erythrulose. Preferred compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one self-tanning active ingredient in a total amount of 0.1-15% by weight, preferably 0.5-10% by weight, more preferably 1.0-0.5% by weight. % and most preferably 2.0 to 4.0 wt .-%, each based on the total composition.

In a further preferred embodiment, the compositions according to the invention comprise at least one skin-lightening active ingredient. According to the invention preferred skin lightening agents are selected from ascorbic acid, the esters of ascorbic acid with phosphoric acid and / or organic C ₂ -C ₂ o-carboxylic acids and their alkali and alkaline earth metal salts, kojic acid, hydroquinone, arbutin, Maulbeerbaum¬ thereof extract and licorice extract and mixtures thereof. Both as a single substance and as a mixture, the ascorbic acid derivatives and kojic acid are preferred. Particularly preferred are sodium ascorbyl phosphate, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, ascorbyl monopalmitate, ascorbyl dipalmitate, ascorbyl monostearate, ascorbyl distearate, ascorbyl monoethyl hexanoate, ascorbyl diethylhexanoate, ascorbyl monooctanoate, ascorbyl dioctanoate, ascorbyl monoisostearate and ascorbyl diisostearate. The invention exceptionally preferred ascorbic acid derivatives are sodium ascorbyl phosphate and magnesium ascorbyl phosphate.

Preferred compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one skin-lightening active ingredient in a total amount of from 0.05 to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 2% by weight, in each case based on the total composition.

A further subject matter of the present invention is the use of a cosmetic and / or dermatological topical composition which, in a suitable carrier, comprises at least one active ingredient which inhibits prostaglandin synthesis and / or leukotriene synthesis and at least one active ingredient which which stimulates cutaneous synthesis of neuromediators, for the non-therapeutic, cosmetic treatment of sensitive skin, dry skin, atopic dermatitis, aging skin, UV-damaged skin and / or irritated skin.

A further subject matter of the present invention is the use of a cosmetic and / or dermatological topical composition which, in a suitable carrier, comprises at least one active ingredient which inhibits prostaglandin synthesis and / or leukotriene synthesis and at least one active ingredient which which stimulates the cutaneous synthesis of neuromediators, for the preparation of an agent for the therapeutic treatment of sensitive skin, dry skin, atopic dermatitis, aging skin, UV-damaged skin and / or irritated skin.

A further subject matter of the present invention is a process for the non-therapeutic cosmetic skin treatment, in which a cosmetic or dermatological topical composition comprising at least one active ingredient in a suitable carrier, the prostaglandin synthesis and / or the leukotriene synthesis inhibited and at least one drug that stimulates the cutaneous synthesis of neuromediators, is applied to the skin, especially the facial skin.

As optional components, the compositions according to the invention contain, in addition to at least one active ingredient which inhibits prostaglandin synthesis and / or leukotriene synthesis and at least one active substance which stimulates the cutaneous synthesis of neuromediators, furthermore at least one conditioning agent. According to the invention, the term "conditioning active ingredients" is understood to mean those substances which are applied to keratinic materials, in particular to the skin, and which improve physical and sensory properties. Conditioners smooth the top layer of the skin and make it soft and supple. Conditioning agents which are preferred according to the invention are selected from fatty substances, in particular vegetable oils, such as sunflower oil, olive oil, soybean oil, rapeseed oil, almond oil, jojoba oil, orange oil, wheat germ oil, peach kernel oil and the liquid portions of coconut oil, lanolin and its derivatives, liquid paraffin oils, isoparaffin oils and synthetic hydrocarbons, di-n-alkyl ethers having a total of 12 to 36 carbon atoms, z. B. di-n-octyl ether and n-hexyl n-octyl ether, fatty acids, especially linear and / or branched, saturated and / or unsaturated C _8-3 o fatty acids, fatty alcohols, especially saturated, mono- or polyunsaturated , branched or unbranched fatty alcohols having 4 to 30 carbon atoms, which may be ethoxylated with 1 to 75, preferably 5 to 20 ethylene oxide units and / or propoxylated with 3 to 30, preferably 9 to 14 propylene oxide units, ester oils, ie esters of C ₆ - ₃₀ fatty acids with C _2-3 pick o-fatty alcohol, Hydroxycarbonsäurealkylestem, dicarboxylic acid esters of di-n-butyl adipate and diol esters such as Ethylenglykoldioleat or propylene glycol di (2-ethylhexanoate), symmetri¬ rule, asymmetrical or cyclic esters of carbonic acid with fatty alcohols, eg. As glycerol carbonate or dicaprylyl (Cetiol ^® CC), mono, - di- and Trifettsäure- esters of saturated and / or unsaturated linear and / or branched fatty acids with glycerol, which are ethoxylated with 1-10, preferably 7-9 ethylene oxide units kön¬ nen, z. B. PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate, waxes, especially insect waxes, Pflan¬ zenwachsen, fruit waxes, ozokerite, microwaxes, ceresin, paraffin waxes, triglycerides of saturated and optionally hydroxylated C | ₆ - ₃ o-fatty acids, eg. As hardened triglyceride fats, phospholipids, for example, soybean lecithin, egg lecithin and cephalins, silicone compounds selected from decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, Dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxan and silicone polymers, which can be cross-linked if desired, z. B. Polydialkylsiloxanen, Polyalkylarylsiloxanen, ethoxylated and / or propoxylated polydialkylsiloxanes with the earlier INCI name Dime- thicone Copolyol, and polydialkylsiloxanes containing amine and / or hydroxyl groups ent, preferably substances with the INCI names Dimethiconol, Amodimethi- cone or trimethylsilylamodimethicone.

The amount of fatty substances used is preferably 0.1-50% by weight, more preferably 0.1-20% by weight, and most preferably 0.1-15% by weight, based in each case on the entire composition. Advantageously, the cosmetic or dermatological compositions according to the invention are in the form of a liquid, flowable or solid oil-in-water emulsion, water-in-oil emulsion, multiple emulsion, in particular an oil-in-water-in-oil. or water-in-oil-in-water emulsion, macroemulsion, miniemulsion, microemulsion, PIT emulsion, nanoemulsion, Pickering emulsion, hydrodispersion, a hydrogel, a lipogel, a mono- or multiphase solution, a foam, a Powder or a mixture with at least one suitable as a medical adhesive polymer. The agents may also be presented in anhydrous form, such as, for example, an oil or a balm. Here, the carrier may be a vegetable or animal oil, a mineral oil, a synthetic oil or a mixture of such oils.

In a particular embodiment of the invention, the compositions are present as a microemulsion. In the context of the invention, microemulsions are understood as meaning not only the thermodynamically stable microemulsions but also the so-called "PIT" emulsions. These emulsions are systems with the 3 components water, oil and emulsifier which are present at room temperature as an oil-in-water emulsion. Upon heating of these systems, they form in a specific temperature range (as phase inversion temperature or " PIT ") denotes microemulsions which, on further heating, convert to water-in-oil emulsions. During the subsequent cooling, O / W emulsions are again formed, but they are also present at room temperature as microemulsions or as very finely divided emulsions having an average particle diameter of less than 400 nm and in particular of about 100-300 nm. According to the invention, those micro- or "PIT" emulsions may be preferred which have an average particle diameter of about 200 nm. In the embodiment as emulsion, the compositions according to the invention contain at least one surface-active substance as emulsifier or dispersant. Suitable emulsifiers are for example adducts of from 4 to 30 mol ethylene oxide and / or 0 to 5 mol propylene oxide onto linear C ₈ -C ₂₂ fatty alcohols, on C ₁₂ - C ₂₂ fatty acids and C ₈ -C ₁₅ alkylphenols, C ₁₂ - C ₂₂ -fatty acid mono- and diesters of addition products of 1 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide onto C ₃ -C ₆ -polyols, in particular to glycerol, ethylene oxide and polyglycerol addition products of methylglucoside fatty acid esters, fatty acid alkanolamides and fatty acid glucamides, C ₈ -C ₂₂ alkyl mono- and - oligoglycosides and their ethoxylated analogues, wherein degrees of oligomerization of 1, 1 to 5, in particular 1, 2 to 2.0, and glucose are preferred as the sugar component, mixtures of alkyl (oligo) -glucosiden and fatty alcohols, eg , B. the commercially available Product Montanov ^® 68, addition products of 5 to 60 moles of ethylene oxide with castor oil and hydrogenated castor oil, partial esters of polyols having 3-6 carbon atoms with saturated C ₈ -C ₂₂ fatty acids, sterols (sterols), in particular cholesterol, lanosterol, beta Sitosterol, stigmasterol, campesterol and ergosterol and mycosterols, phospholipids, especially glucose phospholipids, fatty acid esters of sugars and sugar alcohols such as sorbitol, polyglycerols and polyglycerol derivatives, preferably polyglyceryl-2-dipolyhydroxy stearate (commercial product Dehymuls ^® PGPH) and polyglyceryl-3-diisostearat (Handels¬ product Lameform ^® TGI) as well as linear and branched C ₈ -C ₃₀ fatty acids and their Na, K, ammonium, Ca, Mg and Zn - salts.

The agents according to the invention preferably contain the emulsifiers in amounts of 0.1 to 25% by weight, in particular 0.5 to 15% by weight, based on the total agent. In a particularly preferred embodiment, at least one nonionic emulsifier having an HLB value of 8 and below is included. Such suitable emulsifiers are, for example, compounds of the general formula R ¹ -O-R ² , in which R ^{1 is} a primary linear alkyl, alkenyl or acyl group having 20-30 C atoms and R ² is hydrogen, a group having of the formula - (C _n H _2n O) _x -H where x = 1 or 2 and n = 2 - 4 or a polyhydroxyalkyl group having 4-6 C atoms and 2-5 hydroxyl groups. Behenyl alcohol and arachidyl alcohol, which preferably form lamellar oil-in-water emulsions, are particularly preferred. Further preferred emulsifiers with an HLB value of 8 and below are the adducts of 1 or 2 moles of ethylene oxide or propylene oxide with behenyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol or behenic acid or erucic acid. Preferably, the monoesters of C ₁₆ -C ₃₀ fatty acids with polyols such as. As pentaerythritol, trimethylolpropane, diglycerol, sorbitol, glucose or methyl glucose. Examples of such products are z. Sorbitan mono- behenate or pentaerythritol monoerucate.

Other suitable additives are thickeners, for. B. natural and synthetic clays and phyllosilicates such as bentonite, hectorite, montmorillonite or Laponite ^® , or anionic polymers of acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, crotonic acid, maleic anhydride and 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid, wherein the acidic groups wholly or partly as sodium , Potassium, ammonium, mono- or triethanolammonium salt, and wherein at least one nonionic monomer may be contained. Preferred nonionic monomers are acrylamide, methacrylamide, acrylates, methacrylates, vinylpyrrolidone, vinyl ethers and vinyl esters. Preferred anionic copolymers are acrylic acid-acrylamide copolymers and in particular polyacrylamide copolymers with monomers containing sulfonic acid groups. These copolymers can also be networked. Suitable commercial products are Sepigel ^® 305 Simulgel® ^® 600, Simulgel® ^® NS and Simulgel® ^® EC SEPPIC. More particularly bevor¬ ferred anionic homo- and copolymers are uncrosslinked and crosslinked polyacrylic ren. Such compounds are for example the commercial products Carbopol ^®. A particularly preferred anionic copolymer contains 80 to 98% of an unsaturated, optionally substituted C _3-6 -carboxylic acid or its anhydride as well as 2 to 20%, if desired, substituted acrylic acid esters of saturated C _{10 -3} o-carboxylic acid. acids, wherein the copolymer may be crosslinked with the aforementioned crosslinking agents. Corresponding commercial products are Pemulen ^® and Carbopol ^® grades 954, 980, 1342 and ETD 2020 (ex BF Goodrich).

Suitable nonionic polymers include polyvinyl alcohols, which may be partially saponified, for. As the commercial products Mowiol ^® and VinylpyrrolidonΛ / inylester copolymers and polyvinylpyrrolidones, the z. B. under the trademark Luviskol ^® (BASF) ver¬ be driven.

Other suitable additives are antioxidants, preservatives, solvents such as ethanol, isopropanol, ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, propylene glycol, glycerol and diethylene glycol, adsorbents and fillers such as talc and Veegum ^®, perfume oils, pigments and dyes for coloring the composition, substances position suitability for adjusting the pH, complexing agents such as EDTA, NTA, β-alaninediacetic acid and phosphonic acids, propellants such as propane-butane mixtures, pentane, isopentane, isobutane, N ₂ O, dimethyl ether, CO ₂ and air.

Experimental part

The determination of the inhibition of prostaglandin synthesis, leukotriene synthesis, cyclooxygenase and 5-lipoxygenase was carried out by standard methods known to those skilled in the art.

In order to determine the cutaneous synthesis of neuromediators, in vitro measurements of the stimulation of the β-endorphin release of keratinocytes were used. For this purpose, keratinocyte cultures were each mixed with an aqueous solution of 1% by weight or 5% by weight of the raw material source to be investigated for 24 hours. The produced β-endorphin content was determined with the aid of an enzyme immunoassay kit (β-endorphin human, EIA kit from Phoenix Pharmaceuticals) in the culture medium. Examination of the inhibitory effect of the 5-lipoxygenase inhibitors (in vitro) The enzyme 5-lipoxygenase catalyses the conversion of arachidonic acid into the leucotrienes LTB ₄ , LTC ₄ , LTD ₄ and LTE ₄ . Leukotrienes are mediators in inflammatory and allergic reactions of granulocytes, mast cells, monocytes and macrophages. Also in the keratinocytes of the skin leukotrienes are formed in inflammatory reactions. Accordingly, inhibitors of leukotriene synthesis can have an antiinflammatory or skin-calming effect.

Provision of 5-lipoxygenase

The 5-lipoxygenase was differentiated from human leukemia cell lines by addition of dimethylsulfoxide (DMSO), TGF-β1 (transforming growth factor β1) and dihydroxyvitamin D3 and simultaneously induced 5-lipoxygenase. After 4 days in the differentiation medium, the cells were harvested, taken up in a glucose-containing PBS buffer and disrupted by sonication. Larger Zellbestand¬ parts were centrifuged off at 100 000 g, with 5-lipoxigenase remaining in the supernatant.

Measurement of 5-Oxygenase Inhibition

The determination of the 5-üpoxygenase inhibitory activity was carried out according to Werz et al., Naunyn-Schmiedeberg's Arch. Pharmacol., 1997, Vol. 456, 441-445. The supernatant from the 5-lipoxygenase production were adenosine triphosphate (ATP) and the added to testing raw materials. In the present case, 100 μg of raw material was used as it is per milliliter of supernatant. The solvents used were, depending on the substance, water, ethanol, DMSO or chloroform.

The batches were preincubated for 30 seconds at 37 ° C. Subsequently, the 5-lipoxygenase reaction was started by addition of arachidonic acid. After 10 minutes reaction time, the reaction was stopped by addition of methanol. The leukotrienes produced by the action of 5-lipoxygenase on arachidonic acid were quantified by HPLC.

The following examples are intended to illustrate the invention, without restricting it to be¬ thereto. example recipes

All data are in wt .-%, based on the total composition.

1. Oil-in-water emulsions 1. Skin creams

2. Skin creams:

3rd day creams:

4. Day Creams with SPF:

5th day creams:

Skin creams based on a lipoprotein cream

2. Water-in-oil emulsion

3. Water-in-silicone emulsion

3. Cleaning preparations

1. Tonic preparations:

Examples of compositions for soaking wipes

Various viscose nonwovens were equipped with these impregnating compositions. Perforated, unperforated, dimpled, single-ply, two-ply and three-ply nonwovens were finished. The wipes were used both as wet wipes and as dry wipes (that is, after finishing the wipes to a residual water content of less than 10 wt .-%, preferably less than 5 wt .-%, dried) were used. Example 1 illustrates a lotion composition for a lotion and make-up remover cloth.

Example 2 illustrates a soak composition for a self-tanner cloth. Example 3 illustrates a soak composition for a sunscreen cloth. Example 4 illustrates a soak composition for a facial cleansing wipe.

Skin lightening anti age matrix patch

Skin soothing anti-aging reservoir plasters

Components of the drug reservoir no. 1 no. 2

Caomint

Calmosensine 0.5

Ederline H 1, 0 1, 0

Matrixyl 3000 2.0 2.0

Ridulisse C 1, 0 1, 0

Phytokines 2.0

Carbopof 980 0.5

List of raw materials used

Claims

claims

1. Cosmetic and / or dermatological topical composition comprising, in a suitable carrier, at least one active ingredient which inhibits prostaglandin synthesis and / or leukotriene

Synthesis inhibits and at least one drug that stimulates the cutaneous synthesis of neuromediators.

2. The composition according to claim 1, characterized in that the prostaglandin synthesis inhibiting agent is selected from drugs that inhibit the enzyme cyclooxygenase.

3. Composition according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that the prostaglandin synthesis-inhibiting active ingredient is selected from active substances which inhibit the secretion of interleukins, in particular of interleukin-1-alpha.

4. The composition according to claim 1, characterized in that the leukotriene synthesis-inhibiting active ingredient is selected from drugs that inhibit the enzyme 5-lipoxygenase.

5. The composition according to any one of claims 1-4, characterized in that the cutaneous synthesis of Neuromediatoren stimulating active ingredient is selected from drugs that stimulate the ß-endorphin synthesis in keratinocytes.

6. The composition according to any one of claims 1-5, characterized in that the prostaglandin synthesis inhibiting agent is selected from

silymarin,

- extracts from Centella asiatica,

Glycyrrethinic acid,

- mixtures of grain waxes, extracts of shea butter and Argania spinosa oil,

- extracts of vanilla tahitensis, extracts of olive leaves, algin hydrolyzates,

- extracts from Bacopa Monniera, Extracts from the rooibos plant, the physiologically acceptable salts of sterol sulfates, as well as any mixtures of these active ingredients.

7. A composition according to any one of claims 1-6, characterized in that the concentration of the inhibitor (s) of the prostaglandin synthesis 0.0001 - 10.0 wt .-%, preferably 0.001 - 2.0 wt .-%, more preferably 0.05-1.0% by weight and most preferably 0.1-0.5% by weight, based in each case on the total composition.

8. The composition according to any one of claims 1-7, characterized in that the leukotriene synthesis inhibiting agent is selected from

- algin hydrolyzates,

Aminodicarboxylic acids having a C chain length of 3 to 6 carbon atoms and their physiologically tolerated salts,

N-alkylated Ca-Cn-amino acids with C _r C ₂₂ -alkyl radicals and their physiologically tolerated salts,

N-acylated C ₂ -C ₁ -i-amino acids with C ₂ -C ₂₂ -alkyl radicals and their physiologically tolerated salts,

- yeast extracts,

α-bisabolol,

- α-lipoic acid,

- As well as any mixtures of these agents.

Composition according to any one of Claims 1-8, characterized in that the concentration of the inhibitor (s) of the leukotriene synthesis is from 0.0001 to 10.0% by weight, preferably from 0.001 to 2.0% by weight, more preferably 0.05-1.0% by weight and most preferably 0.1-0.5% by weight, based in each case on the total composition.

10. The composition according to any one of claims 1-9, characterized in that the cutaneous synthesis of neuromediators stimulating active ingredient is selected aus¬

Mixtures of at least one extract of Mentha piperita leaves and at least one extract of cocoa beans, the dipeptide derivative N-acetyl-Tyr-Arg-hexyldecylester,

Extracts of Helichrysum italicum,

Extracts from Crithmum Maritimum,

Extracts from Lavandula stoechas,

Extracts from Mentha piperita,

Extracts from the skins of cocoa beans,

Glutamylamidoethyl indole,

Biosaccharides Gum-2,

Extracts from the seeds of Tephrosia Purpurea,

Mixtures of the oil of Mentha arvensis leaves, lime peel oil, cypress oil, lavender oil and Cistus ladaniferus oil,

- Hexasaccharides according to FR 2842201

- As well as any mixtures of these agents.

11. A composition according to any one of claims 1-10, characterized in that / the cutaneous synthesis of neuromediators stimulating / e drug / s in concentrations of 0.0001 - 10.0 wt .-%, preferably 0.001 - 3.0 Wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.05 to 3.0 wt .-% and most preferably 0.1 to 0.5 to 2.0 wt .-%, is / are, in each case based on the total composition ,

12. Cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1-11, characterized ge indicates that at least one further cosmetic active ingredient is contained, selected from: a) humectants, b) oligomers and polymers of amino acids, NC ₂ -C ₂₄ -acylamino acids, the esters and / or the physiologically acceptable metal salts of these substances, c) DNA or RNA oligonucleotides, d) natural betaine compounds, e) vitamins, provitamins and vitamin precursors of groups A, B, C, E, H and K and the esters of the aforementioned substances, f) α-hydroxycarboxylic acids, α-ketocarboxylic acids, β-hydroxycarboxylic acids and their ester, lactone or salt form, g) flavonoids and flavonoid-rich plant extracts, h) isoflavonoids and isoflavonoid-rich plant extracts, i) polyphenols and polyphenol-rich plant extracts, j) ubiquinone and ubiquinol and derivatives thereof, k) naturally occurring xanthine derivatives selected from caffeine, theophylline, theobromine and aminophylline,

I) Ectoin, m) inorganic and organic UV filter substances, n) self-tanning active ingredients o) and skin-lightening active ingredients.

13. Use of a cosmetic composition according to one of the vorhergehen¬ claims for non-therapeutic, cosmetic treatment of

- sensitive skin,

- dry skin,

- atopic dermatitis,

- aging skin,

- UV-damaged skin,

- and / or irritated skin.

14. Use of a cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1-12 for the preparation of an agent for the therapeutic treatment of