WO2003015728A1

WO2003015728A1 - Electrosol hairspray

Info

Publication number: WO2003015728A1
Application number: PCT/EP2002/005951
Authority: WO
Inventors: Jürgen Allwohn; Stefan Uhl; Thomas Krause
Original assignee: Wella Aktiengesellschaft
Priority date: 2001-07-20
Filing date: 2002-05-31
Publication date: 2003-02-27
Also published as: DE10135501A1

Abstract

The invention relates to a hair treatment method using an electrosol, in addition to a hairspray product consisting of an electro-hydrodynamically sprayable hairspray composition containing at least one hair cosmetic active ingredient and a device for producing an aerosol.

Description

description

Elektrosol hairspray

The invention relates to a method for hair treatment using an electrosol hairspray and a hairspray product consisting of an electrohydrodynamically sprayable composition and a device for producing an electrosol.

Hairspray products are usually offered either as aerosol sprays filled in aerosol containers containing propellant gases or as propellant-free so-called pump sprays, which are sprayed by means of a mechanical spray pump. The aerosol sprays are of much greater importance due to their better performance and better application properties. The conventional aerosol and pump hair sprays are not completely satisfactory in all respects in their application properties. For example, they have the disadvantage that they produce sprays with a relatively wide droplet size distribution. Drops that are too small are undesirable because of the danger of inhalation and lung mobility. Disadvantages of drops that are too large are the so-called wet effect, the so-called pearl necklace effect, in which visible, poorly flowing and poorly drying pearl-like droplets form on the hair, as well as long drying times, poor distribution on the hair, a deteriorated spray pattern, etc. In addition to the medium droplet size in particular the droplet size distribution is crucial for the quality of a hairspray, since a relatively small number of very large drops brings significant disadvantages. The dv (50) and dv (90) values are a measure of the droplet size distribution. These values indicate the maximum diameter that 50% or 90% of all droplets have. For typical aerosol hair sprays, the average dv (50) value is approx. 40 μm and the average dv (90) value is approx. 75 μm. In typical pump hair sprays, the average dv (50) value is approx. 75 μm and the average dv (90) value is approx. 120 μm. In particular, the dv (90) value should not be above 140 μm, preferably not above 130 μm. Otherwise the sprays are perceived as very wet. Hair sprays with improved application properties, in particular with a narrower droplet size distribution, are therefore sought.

It has now been found that the stated objects are achieved by a method for hair treatment, an electrohydrodynamically sprayable composition being made available and this being sprayed onto the hair to be treated by means of an electrohydrodynamic spraying device in the form of an electrosol. The invention relates to a corresponding method and a hairspray product consisting of

(A) an electrohydrodynamically sprayable hairspray composition containing at least one hair cosmetic active ingredient and (B) a device for producing an electrosol.

With the method according to the invention, a narrower droplet size distribution can be achieved compared to conventional hair sprays, which overall has smaller droplets, ie a smaller average drop diameter. allows the knife without increasing the fraction of the inhalable fraction. This distribution is particularly advantageous in the case of polymer-containing, hair-fixing hair sprays, since the total amount of polymer required can be lower, which is noticeable by a more comfortable grip and a more natural hold.

An electrosol is a spray that is formed without the involvement of a propellant gas by applying an electric field to a liquid. The emerging

Droplets are of controlled size, shape, structure and electrical charge. The particle size distribution is very narrow. This spraying process is also referred to as electro-hydrodynamic spraying. The spray droplets are either electrically charged or the electrical charging of the spray droplets can be completely or partially removed by suitable, known measures for discharging. The principles and devices for electrohydrodynamic spraying or for producing electrosol sprays with or without subsequent discharge of the spray droplets are known and are described, for example, in GB 1 569 707, US 5,813,614, WO 98/03267 or WO 94/12285 and in the publications in each of these publications cited literature. The techniques and devices described there are part of this application. A suitable composition, for example a polymer solution, is exposed to an electric field in a small semiconducting vessel and is sprayed free of blowing agent. Due to the lower electrical potential of the hair, the sprayed droplets are attracted to the sprayed object. If you spray a rapidly evaporating solution of a polymer, you get very fine polymer fibers that are attracted to the substrate due to the electrical charge become and adhere to it. A regular network is created because fibers of the same charge repel each other.

The liquid to be sprayed has an electrical resistance at 20 ° C. of preferably at least 10 ⁶ Ω cm, in particular 10 ⁶ to 10 ¹⁰ Ω cm, particularly preferably 10 ⁷ to 10 ⁹ Ω cm. Suitable solvents are alcohols and hydrocarbons. Cl- to C4-monoalcohols, ie methanol, ethanol, isopropanol, n-propanol and butanol, of which ethanol and isopropanol are particularly preferred, can be used as the alcoholic solvent. Suitable polyhydric alcohols are, for example, glycols such as ethylene glycol and propylene glycols or glycerin. Suitable hydrocarbons are in particular linear, branched or cyclic C5 to C12 alkanes or mixtures thereof, for example n-pentane, isopentane, neopentane, n-hexane, cyclohexane or the branched hexane isomers. The composition to be sprayed can also be a water-in-oil emulsion. The drops of the dispersed aqueous phase then have an average diameter below 10 μm and the oil phase makes up 50 to 99, preferably 80 to 99% by weight of the composition.

The viscosity of the composition to be sprayed is preferably a maximum of 50 mPa s, in particular 1 to 50 mPa s, particularly preferably 2 to 25 mPa s, measured using a RheoStress 100 rotary viscometer from Haake at a temperature of 25 ° C. and a shear rate of 0 , 5 to 1400 s ^{' 1} .

The spray device and viscosity are matched such that the mean droplet size is preferably less than 100 μm, particularly preferably less than 80 μm, or that the dv (90) value is at most 140 μm, preferably at most 130 μm. The average droplet size and the droplet size distribution can be determined, for example, with the aid of a particle measuring device based on laser beam diffraction, for example a Malvern Particle Sizer measuring device.

The composition to be sprayed preferably contains hair cosmetic active ingredients which are non-ionic, e.g. non-ionic polymers, non-ionic surfactants, oils, non-ionic dyes, non-ionic light stabilizers, UV filters, optical brighteners, non-ionic silicone compounds, proteins, protein hydrolysates, vitamins, provitamins, panthenol, fragrances or perfume oils. These substances can be contained in an amount of 0.01 to 10% by weight and in a total amount of 0.01 to 20% by weight, provided that the electro-hydrodynamic sprayability is still guaranteed.

Suitable polymers are selected from synthetic or natural or modified natural polymers with nonionic character. A mixture of several polymers can also be used. According to the invention, hair-fixing polymers are such

Polymers understood that when used in 0.01 to 5% aqueous, alcoholic or aqueous-alcoholic solution are able to deposit a polymer film on the hair and in this way strengthen the hair.

Suitable synthetic, nonionic film-forming, hair-fixing polymers are, for example, homopolymers of vinylpyrrolidone, vinylcaprolactam or N-vinylformamide. Other suitable synthetic film Forming, non-ionic, hair-fixing polymers are, for example, copolymers of vinyl pyrrolidone and vinyl acetate, terpolymers of vinyl pyrrolidone, vinyl acetate and vinyl propionate, polyacrylamides; Polyvinyl alcohols as well as polyethylene glycol / polypropylene glycol copolymers, which are sold, for example, under the trade names Ucon by Union Carbide; Copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone and dialkylaminoalkyl acrylates, methacrylates, acrylic aids or methacrylamides or terpolymers of vinylpyrrolidone, vinyl caprolactam and dialkylaminoalkyl acrylates, methacrylates, acrylamides or methacrylamides.

Suitable natural or modified natural polymers are e.g. those based on polysaccharides or polysaccharide derivatives or mixtures of oligo-, mono- and disaccharides. Other suitable, natural polymers are Chinese balsam resin, guar or guar derivatives and cellulose derivatives. In particular, hydroxyalkyl derivatives, e.g. Hydroxyethyl or

Hydroxypropyl cellulose or hydroxyethyl or hydroxypropyl guar in question. If the substances mentioned have viscosity-increasing properties, they are only used in amounts in which the electrohydrodynamic sprayability is still guaranteed.

The polymers are soluble or dispersible in the composition to be sprayed and they are preferably present in an amount of from 0.01 to 20, particularly preferably from 0.1 to 10,% by weight, provided the viscosity is low enough and the electrical resistance is high enough is to ensure the electrohydrodynamic sprayability. In a particularly preferred embodiment, the composition to be sprayed is an essentially anhydrous, ethanolic solution of a nonionic polymer, in particular polyvinylpyrrolidone or PVP / VA copolymer.

The nonionic surfactants can be present in amounts of 0.1 to 10% by weight, preferably 0.2 to 5% by weight. Suitable surfactants are, for example, the nonionic surfactants listed in the 'International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook', 7th edition, volume 2 in the 'Surfactants' section, in particular in the 'Surfactants - Emulsifying Agents' subsection.

Nonionic surfactants are e.g. oxyethylated fatty alcohols, oxyethylated nonylphenols, alkyl polyglycosides, fatty acid mono- and diglycerides, ethoxylated and hydrogenated or non-hydrogenated castor oil, fatty acid alkanolamides, oxyethylated fatty acid esters. If the composition to be sprayed is in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion, it preferably contains a surfactant with a low HLB value, in particular with an HLB value less than 10.

Preferred hair-care substances are volatile, hydrophobic substances which are liquid at room temperature (20 ° C.) and have a boiling point in the range from 30 to 250 ° C., preferably from 60 to 220 ° C. Suitable are, for example, liquid hydrocarbons, liquid cyclic or linear silicones (dimethylpolysiloxanes) or mixtures of the substances mentioned. Suitable hydrocarbons are paraffins or isoparaffins with 5 to 14 C atoms, particularly preferably with 8 to 12 C atoms, in particular dodecane or isododecane. Suitable liquid, volatile silicones are cyclic dimethylsiloxanes with 3 to 8, preferably 4 to 6, Si atoms, in particular Cyclotetradimethylsiloxane, cyclopentadimethylsiloxane or cyclohexadimethylsiloxane. Also suitable are dimethylsiloxane / methylalkylsiloxane cyclocopolymers, for example Silicone FZ 3109 from Union Carbide, which is a dimethylsiloxane / methyloctylsiloxane cyclocopolymer. Suitable volatile linear silicones have 2 to 9 Si atoms. For example, hexamethyldisiloxane or alkyltrisiloxanes such as hexylheptamethyltrisiloxane or octylheptamethyltrisiloxane are suitable.

Further preferred hair care substances are non-volatile, hydrophobic oils with a melting point below 25 ° C and a boiling point above 250 ° C, preferably above 300 ° C. In principle, any oil generally known to the person skilled in the art can be used for this. Vegetable or animal oils, mineral oils, silicone oils or their mixtures are suitable. Suitable silicone oils are polydimethylsiloxanes, phenylated silicones, polyphenylmethylsiloxanes, phenyltrimethicones, poly (C1-C20) alkylsiloxanes, alkylmethylsiloxanes. Hydrocarbon oils, e.g. Paraffin or isoparaffin oils, squalane, oils from fatty acids and polyols, especially triglycerides. Suitable vegetable oils are e.g. Sunflower oil, coconut oil, castor oil, lanolin oil, jojoba oil, corn oil, soybean oil. Hydrocarbon oils are particularly preferred, in particular mineral oils (Paraffinum liquidum).

The hair treatment agent according to the invention can be a hair coloring agent. It then contains at least one coloring substance which does not require water to achieve the hair-coloring effect, preferably a pigment, in particular an inorganic pigment. The total amount of dyes is in the composition according to the invention about 0.01 to 7% by weight, preferably about 0.2 to 4% by weight. Suitable pigments can be of natural origin, for example made from chalk, ocher, umber, green earth, burnt terra di Siena or graphite. The pigments can be white pigments such as titanium dioxide or zinc oxide, black pigments such as iron oxide black, colored pigments such as ultramarine or iron oxide red, luster pigments, metallic effect pigments, pearlescent pigments and fluorescent or phosphorescent pigments, preferably at least a pigment is a colored, non-white pigment. Metal oxides, hydroxides and oxide hydrates, mixed-phase pigments, sulfur-containing silicates, metal sulfides, complex metal cyanides, metal sulfates, chromates and molybdates as well as the metals themselves (bronze pigments) are suitable. Titanium dioxide (CI 77891), black iron oxide (CI 77499), yellow iron oxide (CI 77492), red and brown iron oxide (CI 77491), manganese violet (CI 77742), ultramarine (sodium aluminum sulfosilicate, CI 77007, pigment) are particularly suitable Blue 29), Chromium Oxide Hydrate (CI77289), Iron Blue (Ferric Ferrocyanide, CI77510), Carmine (Cochineal). Pigments based on mica or mica are particularly preferred, which are coated with a metal oxide or a metal oxychloride such as titanium dioxide or bismuth oxychloride and optionally other colorants such as iron oxides, iron blue, ultramarine, carmine, etc., and the color is determined by varying the layer thickness. Such pigments are, for example, among the

Trade names Rona, Colorona, Dichrona and Timiron distributed by Merck, Germany. In addition to the volatile and non-volatile liquid silicones already mentioned above, further silicone compounds can be contained in the composition according to the invention as preferred hair care active ingredients. This can be, for example, silicones with a surfactant character. Siloxane / polyoxyalkylene copolymers are suitable. These are siloxanes with polyalkylene oxide groups, in particular silicones, which are modified with polypropylene oxide, polyethylene oxide or mixtures thereof. The alkylene oxide groups can be pendant or terminal, or they can be linear polydimethylsiloxane / polyalkylene oxide block copolymers. The siloxanes modified with alkylene oxides have the INCI name Dimethicone Copolyol. Suitable silicone surfactants are commercially available, for example, DC 3225 C, DC Q2-5220, DC 193, DC 190 or DC Q4-3667 from Dow Corning, Silwet ^® L-7200 from OSI Specialties, Abil ^® B8830, Abil ^® B8851, Abil ^® B8863 or Abil ^® EM97 from Goldschmidt, SF-1188 from General Electric or KF353A by Shin Etsu. Other suitable silicone compounds are high molecular silicone resins (silicone resin, silicone gum), polydiethylsiloxanes, phenyl-substituted siloxanes (INCI name: phenyltrimethicone), polymethylphenylsiloxanes, hydroxy-substituted siloxanes (INCI name: dimethiconol) or mixtures thereof.

A method for hair treatment is particularly preferred, in which the hair is treated with an electrohydrodynamically sprayable composition which is sprayed onto the hair to be treated by means of an electrohydrodynamic spraying device in the form of an electrosol and the composition contains a substance, the one while spraying forms an at least partially solid or gel-like material, for example in the form of fibers, fiber fragments or particles. Suitable substances, compositions and devices for this are described in WO 98/03267 for wound treatment of the skin. Applied to hair, there is a new, advantageous method for strengthening the hairstyle or for attaching harkosmetics to the hair. Suitable solvents are particularly fast-evaporating solvents such as methanol, ethanol, propanol, isopropanol, water, methylene chloride or acetone. Fiber-forming materials are, for example, polyhydroxybutyric acid, polyvinyl alcohol, polylactic acid or polyglycolic acid. The short polymer fibers created when using rapidly evaporating solvents are able to cross-link hair that is too far apart to be connected by conventional hair sprays. The hair is surrounded by a fine, barely perceptible network of polymer fibers and the hairstyle is fixed. Compared to conventional hair sprays, the amount of polymer required can be reduced, since it is not necessary to coat the hair.

The following example formulations for electrohydrodynamically sprayable hair cosmetic compositions are intended to explain the subject matter of the invention in more detail.

Examples

example 1

5 g Luviskol ^® VA37 E (PVP / VA copolymer, 50% in

Ethanol) 95 g ethanol (99.8%) Example 2

5 g Luviskol ^® VA37 E (PVP / VA copolymer, 50% in

Ethanol) 0.5 g DC 190 surfactant (Dow Corning, Dimethicone Copolyol

94.5 g ethanol (99.8%)

Example 3

5 g Luviskol ^® VA64 E (PVP / VA copolymer, 50% in ethanol)

0.5 g DC 193 surfactant (Dow Corning, Dimethicone

Copolyol 94.5 g ethanol (99.8%)

Example 4

5 g Luviskol ^® K90 (polyvinylpyrrolidone)

0.5 g DC 190 surfactant (Dow Corning, Dimethicone

Copolyol 94.5 g ethanol (99.8%)

Example 5

5 g Luviskol ^® K30 (polyvinylpyrrolidone) 0.5 g DC 193 surfactant (Dow Corning, Dimethicone Copolyol 94.5 g ethanol (99.8%)

Claims

claims

1. A method for hair treatment, wherein an electrohydrodynamically sprayable composition is made available and this by means of a

Device for electrohydrodynamic spraying in the form of an electrosol is sprayed onto the hair to be treated.

2. The method according to claim 1, characterized in that the composition contains at least one hair cosmetic active ingredient.

3. The method according to claim 1, characterized in that the composition contains at least one substance which forms an at least partially solid or gel-like material when sprayed.

4. Hairspray product consisting of (A) an electrohydrodynamically sprayable

Hairspray composition containing at least one hair cosmetic active ingredient and (B) a device for producing an electrosol.

5. Hairspray product according to claim 4, characterized in that the electrical resistance of the composition (A) is at least 10 ⁶ Ω cm, preferably 10 ⁷ to 10 ⁹ Ω cm at 20 ° C.

6. Hairspray product according to claim 4 or 5, characterized in that the viscosity of the composition (A) is at most 50 mPa s at 20 ° C.

7. Hair spray product according to one of claims 4 to 6, characterized in that the hair cosmetic active ingredient is selected from hair-care or hair-fixing nonionic polymers, non-ionic hair care surfactants, oils, nonionic dyes, UV filters, optical brighteners, nonionic light stabilizers, nonionic silicone compounds , Proteins, protein hydrolyzates, vitamins, provitamins, panthenol, fragrances and perfume oils.

8. Hairspray product according to claim 7, characterized in that the nonionic polymer is selected from polyvinylpyrrolidone, polyvinylcaprolactam, poly-N-vinylformamide, polyacrylamide, polyvinyl alcohol, vinylpyrrolidone / vinyl acetate copolymers, copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone, vinyl acetate and vinyl propionate, copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone and copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone Dialkylaminoalkyl acrylates, methacrylates, acrylic amides or methacrylamides, terpolymers

Vinyl pyrrolidone, vinyl caprolactam and dialkylaminoalkyl acrylates, methacrylates, acrylamides or methacrylamides, polyethylene glycol / polypropylene glycol copolymers, polysaccharides, polysaccharide derivatives and mixtures of the polymers mentioned.

9. Hairspray product according to one of claims 4 to 8, characterized in that the hair cosmetic active ingredient is dissolved or dispersed in a liquid organic carrier material, the carrier material being selected from water-in-oil emulsions, CI to C4 alcohols and linear, branched or cyclic liquid hydrocarbons.

10. Hairspray product according to one of claims 4 to 9, characterized in that the composition is an essentially anhydrous ethanolic solution of polyvinylpyrrolidone or vinylpyrrolidone / vinyl acetate copolymer.

11. Electrohydrodynamically sprayable hair cosmetic composition containing a solution or dispersion of a hair cosmetic active ingredient in a liquid organic carrier material, the electrical resistance of the composition being at least 10 ⁶

Ω cm, preferably 10 ⁷ to 10 ^s Ω cm at 20 ° C.