WO2002056847A1

WO2002056847A1 - Cosmetic composition comprising a polymer and a fluorinated oil

Info

Publication number: WO2002056847A1
Application number: PCT/FR2002/000194
Authority: WO
Inventors: Véronique Ferrari
Original assignee: L'oreal
Priority date: 2001-01-17
Filing date: 2002-01-17
Publication date: 2002-07-25

Abstract

The invention concerns a physiologically acceptable composition, in particular cosmetic, containing at least a liquid fatty phase comprising at least a fluorinated oil, the liquid fatty phase being structured by at least a polymer with mean mole weight less than 1000000, in particular ranging between 1000 and 30000, comprising a) a polymeric skeleton, having hydrocarbon repeat units provided with at least a heterotaom, and b) optionally functionalised pendant and/or terminal fatty chains, having 6 to 120 carbon atoms and bound to said units, the liquid fatty phase and the polymer forming a physiologically acceptable medium. Said composition is in particular in the form of a lipstick, whereof the application results in a remarkable and brilliant, non-sticky film, long lasting and non-transfer.

Description

Cosmetic composition containing a polymer and a fluorinated oil

The present invention relates to a composition for caring for and / or treating and / or making up the skin, including the scalp, and / or the lips of human beings, containing a liquid fatty phase containing a fluorinated oil, structured by a particular polymer. This composition is in particular in the form of a make-up stick and more particularly of lipstick, the application of which results in a remarkable, non-sticky, non-sticky deposit without transfer.

In cosmetic or dermatological products, it is common to find a structured liquid fatty phase, namely gelled and / or stiffened; this is particularly the case in solid compositions such as deodorants, balms and lipsticks, concealer products and cast foundations. This structuring is obtained using waxes and / or fillers.

The structuring of the liquid fatty phase makes it possible in particular to limit its exudation from solid compositions in particular in hot and humid regions and, in addition, to limit, after deposition on the skin or the lips, the migration of this phase in wrinkles and fine lines, which is particularly sought after, for a lipstick. Indeed, a significant migration of the liquid fatty phase, in particular when it is loaded with coloring matters, leads to an unsightly effect around the lips and eyes, particularly accentuating wrinkles and fine lines. This migration is often cited by women as a major defect in conventional lipsticks.

Unfortunately, the waxes and fillers conventionally used for structuring tend to matify the composition, which is not always desirable in particular for a lipstick; indeed, women are always looking for a lipstick in the form of a stick depositing an increasingly shiny film.

The shine is mainly linked to the nature of the liquid fatty phase. Thus, it is possible to decrease the rate of waxes and fillers of the composition to increase the gloss of a lipstick but then, the migration of the liquid fatty phase increases. In other words, the levels of waxes and of fillers necessary for the production of a stick of suitable hardness and not exuding at ambient temperature are a brake on the gloss of the deposit.

The Applicant has found that the loss of gloss of a stick containing waxes is linked to the anisotropic crystal structure of these compounds.

In addition, the majority of makeup or care compositions, when they are applied to the skin, the eyelashes or the lips, have the drawback of transferring, that is to say of depositing at least in part, leaving traces, on certain supports with which they can be brought into contact, and in particular a glass, a cup, a cigarette, a garment or the skin. It follows a mediocre persistence of the applied film, requiring to regularly renew the application of the composition, in particular foundation or lipstick. However, to date, users want to beautify their face, including the lips, and their body by spending as little time as possible. Furthermore, the appearance of these unacceptable traces, in particular on the blouse collars, may exclude certain women from the use of this type of makeup.

For several years, cosmeticians have therefore been interested in lipstick compositions and more recently in foundation compositions "without transfer". Thus, the Shiseido company considered in its patent application JP-A-61 -65809 lipstick compositions "without transfer" containing a siloxysilicate resin (with three-dimensional network), a volatile silicone oil with a cyclic silicone chain and powdery charges. Similarly, the company Noevier described in document JP-A-62-61911 compositions of lipstick, eyeliner, "non-transfer" foundation comprising one or more volatile silicones associated with one or more waxes hydrocarbon.

These compositions, although having improved "no transfer" properties, have the drawback of leaving on the lips, after evaporation of the silicone oils, a film which becomes uncomfortable over time (feeling of drying and tightness), spreading a number of women of this type of lipstick. In addition, the film deposited is matt.

In application EP-A-0749746 from the company L'oréal, lipstick compositions are described containing a dispersion of polymer particles stabilized on the surface by a polymeric stabilizer. These compositions have the disadvantage of being able to contain only a small proportion of polar oils known to bring shine to the film deposited, in conventional compositions. In particular, the presence of a large proportion of polar oils (at least 5%) cause flocculation of the particles and therefore instability over time of the compositions.

There therefore remains a need for a composition which does not have the above drawbacks, and which in particular has remarkable "transfer-free" properties, even during pronounced pressure or friction, of good resistance over time, in particular color, a shiny, non-sticky appearance which does not dry out the skin or the lips to which it is applied, both during application and over time. In addition, this composition is stable over time, easy to manufacture and the introduction of pigments is easy. The subject of the invention is precisely a composition for caring for and / or making up and or for treating the skin and / or the lips of the face and / or the integuments making it possible to remedy the drawbacks mentioned above.

Surprisingly, the applicant has found that the use of particular polymers associated with a fluorinated oil made it possible to obtain a stick whose application on the lips led to a film having remarkable cosmetic properties. In particular, the film is shiny, flexible, comfortable, "without transfer" and not sticky. In addition, the film has good homogeneity. In addition, the composition is stable over time and does not exude at room temperature (25 ° C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg).

Furthermore, when the fluorinated oil is a silicone fluorinated oil, the latter has a high compatibility with non-fluorinated silicone oils: it is then possible to incorporate a higher amount of silicone oil in the composition, further promoting holding the lipstick.

By stable is meant a composition which does not exude at room temperature (25 ° C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg) for at least 2 months, or even up to 9 months.

The invention applies not only to lip makeup products, such as lipsticks, lip glosses and lip pencils, but also to skin care and / or treatment products, including the scalp. , and lips such as facial, body or lip care products, in particular in sun protection stick, to make-up products for the skin, both of the face and of the human body, such as foundations which may be poured in stick or cup, concealer products, eyeshadows and blushes, temporary tattoo products, body hygiene products such as deodorants, especially sticks, shampoos and conditioners and make-up products for eyes such as eye-liners, pencils and mascaras, more particularly in the form of bread, as well as skin care and make-up products for integuments, in particular keratin fibers such as hair and sourc they.

More specifically, the subject of the invention is a structured composition containing at least one liquid fatty phase comprising at least one fluorinated oil, the liquid fatty phase being structured by at least one structuring polymer of average molecular mass by weight less than or equal to 1 000 000, comprising a) a polymer backbone, having hydrocarbon repeating units provided with at least one heteroatom, and b) optionally at least one pendant fatty chain and / or at least one terminal fatty chain optionally functionalized, having from 6 to 120 atoms of carbon and being linked to these hydrocarbon units, the liquid fatty phase and the structuring polymer forming a physiologically acceptable medium.

Advantageously, the composition of the invention is free of silicone resin with siloxysilicate units or of trimethylated silica, in order to preserve the comfort properties of the composition.

The composition of the invention may be in the form of a paste, a solid, a more or less viscous cream. It can be a simple oil-in-water or water-in-oil emulsion, a multiple emulsion, a rigid or flexible anhydrous gel. In particular, the liquid fatty phase of the composition is a continuous or external phase. The composition is in particular in the form of a stick or a cup, and more especially in the form of an anhydrous rigid gel, in particular an anhydrous stick. In particular, it is in the form of a rigid translucent or transparent gel (in the absence of pigments), the liquid fatty phase forming the continuous phase.

By "liquid fatty phase", within the meaning of the invention, is meant a fatty phase liquid at room temperature (25 ° C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg), composed of one or more fatty substances liquid at room temperature , also called oils, generally compatible with each other.

The structuring of the fatty phase is modular according to the nature of the structuring polymer with heteroatom used, and can be such that a rigid structure is obtained in the form of a stick or a stick. These sticks when they are colored make it possible, after application, to obtain a shiny deposit, uniform in color, not migrating, not transferring in particular to a support applied in contact with the film, after evaporation of the volatile solvent and of good performance. especially color over time.

Preferably, the composition of the invention is a composition for the lips and better still a composition of lipstick, in particular in stick or in stick.

The structuring polymer of the composition of the invention is a non-deformable solid at room temperature (25 ° C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg). It is insoluble in water or aqueous phase; he is able to structure the composition without clouding it. In particular, the structuring polymer does not crystallize and the structuring of the liquid fatty phase is due to hydrogen interactions between two polymer molecules and / or between the molecules of the polymer and the molecules of the liquid fatty phase. Preferably, the structuring polymer does not have an ionic group. By “functionalized chains” within the meaning of the invention, is meant an alkyl chain comprising one or more functional or reactive groups chosen in particular from amide, hydroxyl, ether, oxyalkylene or polyoxyalkylene, halogen groups, including fluorinated or perfluorinated groups, ester , siloxane, polysiloxane. In addition, the hydrogen atoms of one or more fatty chains can be substituted at least partially by fluorine atoms.

According to the invention, these chains can be linked directly to the polymer backbone or via an ester function or a perfluorinated group.

By "polymer" is meant within the meaning of the invention a compound having at least 2 repeating units, and preferably at least 3 repeating units, which are identical.

By "hydrocarbon repeating units" is meant within the meaning of the invention a unit comprising from 2 to 80 carbon atoms, and preferably from 2 to 60 carbon atoms, carrying hydrogen atoms and optionally atoms of oxygen, which can be linear, branched or cyclic, saturated or unsaturated. These patterns further comprise each of one to several heteroatoms which are advantageously non-pendant and which are found in the polymer backbone. These heteroatoms are chosen from nitrogen, sulfur and phosphorus atoms and their associations, possibly associated with one or more oxygen atoms. Preferably, the units comprise at least one nitrogen atom, in particular not pendant. These units also advantageously comprise a carbonyl group.

The heteroatom units are in particular amide units forming a skeleton of the polyamide type, carbamate and / or urea units forming a polyurethane, polyurea and / or polyurea-urethane skeleton. Preferably, these units are amide units. Advantageously, the pendant chains are linked directly to at least one of the heteroatoms of the polymer backbone. According to one embodiment, the first polymer comprises a polyamide skeleton. In addition, the terminal chains are linked to the polymer backbone, via a linking group which can be an ether, amino, urea, urethane, thioether, thioester, thiourea, thiourethane group or a single bond.

Between the hydrocarbon units, the polymer can comprise silicone units or oxyalkylenated units.

In addition, the polymer of the composition of the invention advantageously comprises a total number of fatty chains which represents from 40 to 98% of the total number of heteroatom units and fatty chains, and better still from 50 to 95%. The nature and proportion of the heteroatom units is a function of the nature of the liquid fatty phase and is in particular similar to the nature (polar or not) of the liquid fatty phase. Thus, the more polar the heteroatom units and in high proportion in the polymer, which corresponds to the presence of several heteroatoms, the more the polymer has affinity with polar oils. On the other hand, the more the heteroatom units are not very polar or even non-polar or in low proportion, the more the polymer has affinity with non-polar oils.

The subject of the invention is also a structured composition containing at least one liquid fatty phase comprising at least one fluorinated oil, the liquid fatty phase being structured by at least one polyamide of average molecular weight by weight less than 1,000,000, comprising a) a polymer backbone, having repeating amide units, and b) optionally at least one pendant fatty chain and / or at least one terminal fatty chain optionally functionalized, having from 6 to 120 carbon atoms and being linked to these amide units, the phase liquid fatty acid and the polyamide forming a physiologically acceptable medium.

Preferably, the pendant fatty chains are linked to at least one of the nitrogen atoms of the amide units of the polymer.

In particular, the fatty chains of this polyamide represent from 40 to 98% of the total number of amide units and fatty chains, and better still from 50 to 95%.

Advantageously, the structuring polymer and in particular the polyamide, of the composition according to the invention has a weight average molecular weight of less than 1,000,000 and better still than 500,000. Preferably, this molecular weight is less than or equal to 100,000 ( in particular ranging from 1000 to 100,000), in particular less than or equal to 50,000 (in particular ranging from 1000 to 50,000), and more particularly ranging from 1000 to 30,000, preferably from 2000 to 20,000, and better still from 2000 to 10,000.

As preferred structuring polymers which can be used in the invention, mention may be made of polyamides branched by pendant fatty chains and / or terminal fatty chains containing from 6 to 120 carbon atoms, in particular having from 12 to 120 carbon atoms and in particular from 12 to 68 carbon atoms, the terminal fatty chains being linked to the polyamide skeleton by linking groups, in particular ester.

These polymers are preferably polymers resulting from a polycondensation between a dicarboxylic acid with at least 32 carbon atoms (notably having from 32 to 44 carbon atoms) with a diamine having at least 2 carbon atoms (especially from 2 to 36 carbon atoms). The diacid is preferably a fatty acid dimer having at least 16 carbon atoms such as oleic, linoleic or linolenic acid. The diamine is preferably ethylene diamine, hexylene diamine, hexamethylene diamine. For polymers comprising one or 2 terminal carboxylic acid groups, it is advantageous to esterify them with a monoalcohol having at least 4 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 36 carbon atoms and better still from 12 to 24 and even better from 16 to 24, for example 18 carbon atoms.

These polymers are more especially those described in document US-A-5783657 from the company Union Camp. Each of these polymers satisfies in particular the following formula (I):

R ⁴ R ⁴

IIR ¹ - O— [- C— R ² - C— N— R ³ - N—] _n - C— R ² - C— O— R ¹ (I)

I l I I I I M

O O O O

in which n denotes an integer number of amide units such that the number of ester groups represents from 10% to 50% of the total number of ester and amide groups; R ¹ is independently at each occurrence an alkyl or alkenyl group having at least 4 carbon atoms, for example from 4 to 24 carbon atoms; R ² independently represents at each occurrence a C ₄ to C ₂ hydrocarbon group, provided that 50% of the R ² groups represent a C ₃₀ to C ₄₂ hydrocarbon group; R ³ independently represents, on each occurrence, an organic group provided with at least 2 carbon atoms, hydrogen atoms and optionally one or more oxygen or nitrogen atoms; and R ⁴ is independently at each occurrence a hydrogen atom, an alkyl group at C ₁₀ or a direct bond to R ³ or to another R ⁴ such that the nitrogen atom to which are linked to both R ³ and R ⁴ is part of a heterocyclic structure defined by R ⁴ -NR ³ , with at least 50% of the R ⁴ representing a hydrogen atom.

In particular, the ester groups of formula (I), which are part of the terminal and / or pendant fatty chains within the meaning of the invention, represent from 15 to

40% of the total number of ester and amide groups and better from 20 to 35%. In addition, n advantageously represents an integer ranging from 1 to 10 for example, from 1 to 5 and better still greater than 2. Preferably, R ¹ is a Cι ₂ to C22 and preferably Cι ₆ to C22 alkyl group. Advantageously, R ² can be a C ₁ -C ₄₂ hydrocarbon (alkylene) group. Preferably, at least 50% and better still 75% of the R ² are groups having from 30 to 42 carbon atoms. The other R ² are hydrogenated groups from C ₄ to C ₁₉ and even from C ₄ to C ₁₂ . Preferably, R ³ represents a C ₂ to C ₃₆ hydrocarbon group or a polyoxyalkylenated group and R ⁴ represents a hydrogen atom. Preferably, R ³ represents a hydrocarbon group, C ₂ Cι _2. The hydrocarbon groups can be linear, cyclic or branched, saturated or unsaturated groups. Furthermore, the alkyl and alkenyl groups can be linear or branched groups.

According to the invention, the structuring of the liquid fatty phase is obtained using one or more polymers of formula (I). In general, the polymers of formula (I) are in the form of polymer blends, these blends can also contain a synthetic product corresponding to a compound of formula I) where n is 0, that is to say a diester.

By way of example of structuring polymers which can be used in the composition according to the invention, mention may be made of the commercial products manufactured or sold by the company Arizona Chemical under the names Uniclear 80 and Uniclear 100. They are sold respectively in the form of a gel at 80 % (active ingredient) in mineral oil and 100% (active ingredient). They have a softening point of 88 to 94 ° C. These commercial products are a copolymer mixture of a C ₃₆ diacid condensed on ethylene diamine, with an average molecular weight of approximately 6000. The terminal ester groups result from the esterification of the remaining acid terminations by alcohol. cetylic, stearyl or mixtures thereof (also called cetylstearyl alcohol).

As structuring polymer which can be used in the invention, mention may also be made of polyamide resins resulting from the condensation of an aliphatic di-carboxylic acid and a diamine (including compounds having more than 2 carbonyl groups and 2 amino groups), carbonyl and amine groups of adjacent unitary units being condensed by an amide bond. These polyamide resins are especially those sold under the Versamid® brand by the companies General Mills, Inc. and Henkel Corp. (Versamid 930, 744 or 1655) or by the company Olin Mathieson Chemical Corp., under the brand Onamid®, in particular Onamid S or C. These resins have a weight average molecular weight ranging from 6000 to 9000. For more information on these polyamides, reference may be made to documents US-A-3645705 and US-A-3148125. More specifically, Versamid® 930 or 744 are used.

It is also useful the polyamides manufactured or sold by the company Arizona Chemical under the references Uni-Rez® (2658, 2931, 2970, 2621, 2613, 2624, 2665, 1554, 2623, 2662) and the product sold under the reference Macromelt 6212 from Henkel. For more information on these polyamides, reference can be made to document US-A-5500209.

It is also possible to use polyamide resins obtained from vegetables such as those described in patents US-A-5783657 and US-A-5998570. The structuring polymers of the composition of the invention advantageously have a softening temperature greater than 65 ° C and better still greater than 70 ° C and which can range up to 190 ° C. Preferably, it has a softening temperature of less than 150 ° C, for example ranging from 70 to 140 ° C and better still ranging from 80 to 130 ° C and better still from 80 to 105 ° C. These polymers are in particular non-waxy polymers. The low melting point of the structuring polymers of the invention facilitates their implementation and limits the degradation of the liquid fatty phase, unlike polymers or compounds with a higher softening point.

Preferably, the polymers of the composition according to the invention are those corresponding to formula (I). These polymers exhibit, due to their fatty chain (s), good solubility in oils and therefore lead to macroscopically homogeneous compositions even with a high level (at least 25%) of polymer, unlike polymers free from fatty chains.

Throughout the description, the softening or melting temperature values can be determined by the D.S.C ("Differential Scanning Calorimetry") method; the softening or melting temperature then corresponds to the melting peak and the temperature rise is 5 or 10 ° C / min.

Fluorinated oil is understood to mean any fatty substance liquid at room temperature and atmospheric pressure containing at least one fluorine atom. The fluorinated oil can in particular be a volatile fluorinated oil. It preferably has a density greater than approximately 1, for example greater than approximately 1.1, in particular greater than approximately 1.2. It can have a saturated vapor pressure, at 25 ° C., at least equal to 50 Pa, for example greater than 2000 Pa, preferably greater than 4000 Pa.

Advantageously, the fluorinated oil can have a boiling point (at ambient pressure, ie 760 mm of Hg or 10 ⁵ Pa), be between 20 and 75 ° C. and preferably between 25 and 65 ° C.

As fluorinated oil, it is possible to use in the invention

i) the fluorosilicone compounds of formula (II):

in which :

R represents a linear or branched divalent alkyl group having 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably a divalent, methyl, ethyl, propyl or butyl group,

- Rf represents a fluoroalkyl radical, in particular a perfluoroalkyl radical, having 1 to 9 carbon atoms, preferably 1 to 4 carbon atoms in particular of formula - (CF ₂ ) _q -CF ₃ with q integer ranging from 0 to 8 and better from 0 to 4,

- Ri represents, independently of one another, a C1-C20 alkyl radical, a hydroxyl radical, a phenyl radical,

- m is chosen from 0 to 150, preferably from 20 to 100, and

- n is chosen from 1 to 300, preferably from 1 to 100.

Preferably, the R- | are identical and represent a methyl radical.

In a particularly preferred embodiment, the fluorosilicone compound used according to the invention has the following formula (III):

H ₃ C (III)

with

- R representing a divalent group, methyl, ethyl, propyl or butyl

- m being chosen from 0 to 80, and

- n being chosen from 1 to 30.

Such compounds are in particular those marketed by the company Shin Etsu under the names 'X22-819', 'X22-820', 'X22-821' and 'X22-822' or even 'FL-100'. ii) the perfluorocycloalkyl compounds of formula (IV) below:

wherein n is 4 or 5, m is 1 or 2, and p is 1, 2 or 3; provided that when m = 2, the groupings are not necessarily in alpha with respect to each other.

Among the compounds of formula (IV), mention may in particular be made of perfluoromethylcyclopentane and perfluorodimethylcyclohexane, sold respectively under the names "FLUTEC PC1®" with a vapor pressure of 368 mbar and "FLUTEC PC3®" by the company BNFL FLUOROCHEMICALS Ltd, as well as perfluorodimethylcyclobutane;

iii) fluoroalkyl or heterofluoroalkyl compounds corresponding to the following formula (V):

CH ₃ - (CH2) n- [Z] tX-CF ₃ (V)

where t is 0 or 1; n is 0, 1, 2 or 3; X is a divalent perfluoroalkyl radical, linear or branched, having from 2 to 5 carbon atoms, and Z represents O, S, or NR, R being hydrogen, a radical - (CH2) _n -CH3 or - (CF2) _m - CF3, m being 2, 3, 4 or 5.

Among the fluoroalkyl or heterofluoroalkyl compounds of formula (V), mention may in particular be made of perfluropolyethers such as methoxynonafluorobutane sold under the name of "MSX 4518®", "HFE-7100®" by the company 3M and the ethoxynonafluorobutane sold under the name of "HFE-7200®" by the company 3M.

iv) the perfluoroalkane compounds corresponding to the following formula (VI):

CF3- (CF ₂ ) n-CF ₃ (VI) where n is 2 to 6.

Among the perfluoroalkane compounds of formula (VI), mention may especially be made of dodecafluoropentane and tetradecafluorodexane.

v) perfluomorpholine derivatives corresponding to the following formula (VII)

in which R represents a CC ₄ perfluoroalkyl radical Among the perfluoromorpholine derivatives of formula (VII), mention may especially be made of 4-trifluoromethyl perfluoromorpholine and 4-pentafluoroethyl perfluoromorpholine.

vi) perfluoropolyethers corresponding to the following formulas (VIII) and (IX):

where n is 7 to 30; and _.

C ₃ ~ O-CF-CF; -kf-0-CF ₂ _P ° ^CF 3 (IX)

the m / p ratio being from 20 to 40, and the molecular weight ranging from 500 to 20,000. Among these perfluoropolyethers of formulas (VIII) and (IX), mention may be made respectively of that sold under the name of "FLUORTRESS LM36®" by the DUPONT Company, and those sold under the general name of "FOMBLIN" by the MONTEFLUOS Company, for example FOMBLIN HC R®.

It is also possible to use the perfluoropolyethers mentioned in application EP-A-641194, the content of which is incorporated, for reference, in the present application. vii) the fluoro-silicone compounds corresponding to the following formula (X):

CF ₃ - (CF ₂ ) _k - Oj-Si (R ₂ )] ₂ (X)

where k is 1 to 17, I is 1 to 18, p is 1 to 6, and R- | represents a hydrogen atom or a C- alkyl radical | -C6; R2 represents a C- alkyl radical | -C6 or the radical -OSi (R3) 3, and R3 represents a C1 -C4 alkyl radical.

Among the compounds corresponding to formula (IV), there may be mentioned in particular:

- N - (- 2-F-octyl-ethyloxycarbonyl) -3-aminopropyl bis (trimethylsiloxy) - methylsilane,

- N - (- 2-F-hexyl-ethyloxycarbonyl) -3-aminopropyl bis (trimethylsiloxy) - methylsilane,

- N - (- 2-F-butyl-ethyloxycarbonyl) -3-aminopropyl bis (trimethylsiloxy) - methylsilane, - N - (- 2-F-octyl-ethyloxycarbonyl) -3-aminopropyl tris (trimethylsiloxy) silane,

- N - (- 2-F-hexyl-ethyloxycarbonyl) -3-aminopropyl tris (trimethylsiloxy) silane, and

- N - (- 2-F-butyl-ethyloxycarbonyl) -3-aminopropyl tris (trimethylsiloxy) silane.

viii) fluorinated alkylsilicones corresponding to one of the following formulas (XI) and / or (XII):

in which R- | and R'i independently represent an alkyl radical, linear or branched, having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms or a phenyl radical,

R2 represents R- | , -OH, or - (CH2) f-RF. f being an integer ranging from 0 to 10,

R3 represents an alkyl radical, linear or branched, having from 6 to 22 carbon atoms,

Rp represents a radical of formula - (CF2) q-CF3, q being an integer ranging from 0 to 10, m and n representing an integer ranging from 1 to 50, and p representing an integer ranging from 0 to 2000,

in which :

R4 represents an alkyl radical, linear or branched, having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, or a phenyl radical,

R5 represents an alkyl radical, linear or branched, having 6 to 22 carbon atoms, or a phenyl radical,

R'F represents a radical of formula - (CF2) s-CF3, s being an integer ranging from 0 to 15, and t represents an integer ranging from 1 to 2000.

According to a particular embodiment of the cosmetic compositions according to the invention, the fluorinated alkyl silicone corresponds to formula (XI) in which:

Ri _t R'1 and R2 represent the methyl radical,

R3 represents a linear alkyl radical having from 6 to 22 carbon atoms, m and n are whole numbers ranging from 1 to 20, and q is an integer ranging from 0 to 3 (example 1, 2 or 3). According to another embodiment of the compositions according to the invention, the fluorinated alkyl silicone corresponds to formula (XII) in which: R4 represents the methyl radical, R ₅ represents a linear alkyl radical, having from 6 to 22 carbon atoms, and s represents an integer ranging from 1 to 13 (example 1, 2 or 3). The fluorinated alkylsilicones as defined above are known compounds which have been described in particular in US Pat. No. 5,473,038.

Fluorohydrocarbons cited in application EP-A-609132, the content of which is incorporated by reference in the present application, can also be used as fluorinated oils.

Preferably, the fluorinated oil is a fluorinated silicone. This oil is in particular a compound of formula II or XI and better still of formula III or of formula XI with Rt = R ' ₁ = R ₂ = methyl, m and n are numbers from 1 to 20 and q a number from 0 to 3 or a perfluropolyether of formula (V).

The fluorinated oil can be present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.1% to 50% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 1% to 30% by weight, and better ranging from 3% to 15% by weight.

Advantageously, the polymer can be combined with at least one amphiphilic liquid and non-volatile compound at room temperature, with a hydrophilic / lipophilic balance value (HLB) of less than 12 and in particular ranging from 1 to 8 and preferably from 1 to 5. According to the invention, one or more amphiphilic compounds can be used. The purpose of these amphiphilic compounds is to reinforce the structuring properties of the heteroatom polymer, to facilitate the implementation of the polymer and to improve the ability to deposit the stick.

According to the invention, the composition can have a hardness ranging from 20 to 2000 gf, in particular from 20 to 1500 gf and better still from 20 to 900 gf, for example from 50 to 600 gf or even better from 150 to 450 gf. This hardness can be measured according to a method of penetration of a probe into said composition and in particular using a texture analyzer (for example TA-XT2i from Rhéo) equipped with an ebonite cylinder of 5 mm high and 8 mm in diameter. The hardness measurement is carried out at 20 ° C. in the center of 5 samples of the said composition. The cylinder is introduced into each composition sample at a pre-speed of 2mm / s then at a speed of 0.5 mm / s and finally at a post-speed of 2mm / s, the total displacement being 1 mm. The value recorded for hardness is that of the maximum peak. The measurement error is +/- 50 gf. Hardness can also be measured by the so-called butter cutting wire method, which consists of cutting an 8.1 mm lipstick stick and measuring the hardness at 20 ° C, using a DFGHS 2 dynamometer. from the company Indelco-Chatillon moving at a speed of 100mm / minute. It is expressed as the shear force (expressed in gram force) necessary to cut a stick under these conditions. According to this method, the hardness of a stick composition according to the invention ranges from 30 to 300 gf, and better still from 30 to 250 gf, in particular from 30 to 180 gf, preferably from 30 to 150 gf and for example from 30 to 120 gf. The hardness of the composition according to the invention is such that the composition is self-supporting and can disintegrate easily to form a satisfactory deposit on the skin and / or the lips and / or the integuments. In addition, with this hardness, the composition of the invention resists impact well.

According to the invention, the composition in the form of a stick has the behavior of a deformable and flexible elastic solid, giving the application a remarkable elastic softness. The stick compositions of the prior art do not have this property of elasticity and flexibility.

The amphiphilic compound or compounds which can be used in the composition of the invention comprise a lipophilic part linked to a polar part, the lipophilic part comprising a carbon chain having at least 8 carbon atoms in particular, from 18 to 32 carbon atoms and better still from 18 to 28 carbon atoms. Preferably, the polar part of this or these amphiphilic compounds is the remainder of a compound chosen from alcohols and polyols having from 1 to 12 hydroxyl groups, polyoxyalkylenes comprising at least 2 oxyalkylenated units and having from 0 to 20 oxypropylenated units and / or from 0 to 20 oxyethylenated units. In particular, the amphiphilic compound is an ester chosen from hydro-xystearates, oleates, iso-stearates of glycerol, sorbitan or methylglucose or else branched fatty alcohols in C-ι ₂ to C ₂ 6 such as octyldodecanol and their mixtures. Among these esters, monoesters and mixtures of mono- and di-esters are preferred.

The level of fluorinated oil, that of the heteroatom polymer, and optionally that of the amphiphilic compound are chosen according to the gel hardness desired and according to the particular application envisaged. The respective amounts of polymer and optionally of amphiphilic compound must be such that they allow obtaining a disintegrating stick. In practice, the amount of polymer represents from 0.5 to 80% of the total weight of the composition and better still from 5 to 40%. The amount of amphiphilic compound represents in practice from 0.1% to 35% of the total weight of the composition and better still from 1% to 15%, if it is present. The liquid fatty phase of the composition according to the invention may comprise an additional oil, different from the fluorinated oil described above (the additional oil is therefore a non-fluorinated oil). In particular, the additional oil can be a volatile oil or a non-volatile oil.

Advantageously, the liquid fatty phase of the composition contains more than 30% for example, more than 40% liquid oil (s) having a group similar to that of the heteroatom units and better still from 50 to 100%. In particular, the liquid fatty phase structured by a polyamide-type skeleton contains a majority amount, namely greater than 30% or even 40% of the total weight of the liquid fatty phase and better still from 50 to 100%, of oil or mixture of apolar liquid oils, and more particularly hydrocarbon oil (s). By hydrocarbon oil is meant within the meaning of the invention, an oil essentially comprising carbon and hydrogen atoms with optionally one or more hydroxyl, ester or ether groups.

For a liquid fatty phase structured by a polymer comprising a partly silicone skeleton, this fatty phase preferably contains more than 30% for example more than 40% of the total weight of the liquid fatty phase and better still from 50 to 100%, oil or mixture of liquid silicone oils, relative to the total weight of the liquid fatty phase. In particular, these silicone oils are fluoro-silicone oils.

For a liquid fatty phase structured by an apolar polymer of the hydrocarbon type, this fatty phase advantageously contains more than 30% by weight, for example more than 40% by weight and better still from 50 to 100%, of oil or mixture of oils. liquid apolar, in particular hydrocarbon, relative to the total weight of the liquid fatty phase.

In particular, the additional polar oils of the invention are:

- hydrocarbon-based vegetable oils with a high triglyceride content made up of fatty acid and glycerol esters, the fatty acids of which may have varying chain lengths from C ₄ to C2 ₄ , the latter possibly being linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated ; these oils are in particular the oils of wheat germ, corn, sunflower, shea, castor, sweet almonds, macadamia, apricot, soy, cotton, alfalfa, poppy, pumpkin, sesame, squash, rapeseed, avocado, hazelnut, grape or blackcurrant seed, evening primrose, millet, barley, quinoa, olive, rye, safflower, bancoulier , passion flower, muscat rose; or the triglycerides of caprylic / capric acids such as those sold by the company Stearineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol 810, 812 and 818 by the company Dynamit Nobel; - synthetic oils or synthetic esters of formula RsCOOR ₆ in which R ₅ represents the remainder of a linear or branched fatty acid containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms and R & represents a hydrocarbon chain in particular branched containing from 1 to 40 atoms carbon provided that R ₅ + R ₆ is 10, such as Purcellin oil (cetostearyl octanoate), isononyl isononanoate, C12 to Cι ₅ alcohol benzoate, isopropyl myristate , ethyl 2-hexyl palmitate, isostearate isostearate, octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates of alcohols or polyalcohols; hydroxylated esters such as isostearyl lactate, di-isostearyl malate; and pentaerythritol esters;

- synthetic ethers having from 10 to 40 carbon atoms;

- C ₂ to C 6 fatty alcohols such as oleic alcohol;

- C ₂₆ to C ₂₆ fatty acids such as oleic, linoleic or linolenic acid;

- their mixtures.

The additional non-polar oils according to the invention are in particular silicone oils such as polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) volatile or not, linear or cyclic, liquid at room temperature (25 ° C); polydimethylsiloxanes comprising alkyl, alkoxy or phenyl groups, pendant and / or at the end of the silicone chain, groups having from 2 to 24 carbon atoms; phenylated silicones such as phenyl trimethicones, phenyl dimethicones, phenyl trimethylsiloxy diphenylsiloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, diphenyl methyldiphenyl trisiloxanes, 2-phenylethyl trimethylsiloxysilicates; linear or branched hydrocarbons of synthetic or mineral origin such as paraffin oils, volatile (isoparaffins or isododecane) or non-volatile, and its derivatives, petrolatum, liquid lanolin, polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as Parleam, squalane; and their mixtures.

Preferably, the additional oils are non-polar oils and more especially an oil or a mixture of oils of the hydrocarbon type of mineral or synthetic origin, chosen in particular from hydrocarbons in particular alkanes such as parlamam oil, isoparaffins such as isododecane and squalane and their mixtures. Advantageously, these oils are combined with one or more phenylated silicone oils.

Preferably, the liquid fatty phase contains, at least one additional non-volatile oil chosen in particular from hydrocarbon oils of mineral, vegetable or synthetic origin, synthetic esters or ethers, silicone oils and their mixtures.

The total liquid fatty phase represents, in practice, from 5 to 99% of the total weight of the composition, preferably from 10 to 80% and better still from 20 to 75%. The liquid fatty phase of the composition according to the invention also contains at least one additional volatile oil, different from the fluorinated oils described above, namely one or more volatile oils also called volatile solvents.

By "solvent or volatile oil" is meant within the meaning of the invention any non-aqueous medium capable of evaporating on contact with the skin or the lips in less than an hour, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure. The volatile solvent (s) of the invention are organic solvents and in particular volatile cosmetic oils, liquid at room temperature, having a non-zero vapor pressure, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure, ranging in particular from 10 ^"3 to 300 mm of Hg (0.13 Pa to 40,000 Pa) and preferably greater than 0.03 mm of Hg (4 Pa) and for example greater than 0.3 mm of Hg (40 Pa).

According to the invention, these volatile solvents or oils facilitate, in particular, the application of the composition to the skin, the lips or the integuments. These solvents or oils may be hydrocarbon solvents, silicone solvents optionally comprising pendant or alkoxy alkyl groups or at the end of the silicone chain or a mixture of these solvents. Preferably, these solvents are not alcohols with at least 7 carbon atoms.

As solvent or volatile oil which can be used in the invention, mention may be made of linear or cyclic silicone oils having a viscosity at room temperature of less than 8 cSt and having in particular from 2 to 7 silicon atoms, these silicones optionally comprising alkyl or alkoxy having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms. As volatile silicone oil which can be used in the invention, there may be mentioned in particular octamethyl cyclotetrasiloxane, decamethyl cyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethyl cyclohexasiloxane, heptamethyl hexyltrisiloxane, heptamethyloctyl trisiloxane, hexamethyl disiloxane, octamethyl trisil tetrasiloxane, dodecamethyl pentasiloxane and mixtures thereof.

As another solvent or volatile oil which can be used in the invention, mention may be made of volatile hydrocarbon oils having from 8 to 16 carbon atoms and their mixtures and in particular branched alkanes of Cβ-Ciβ such as iso-alkanes (also called isoparaffins). C ₈ -Ci6, isododecane, isodecane, isohexadecane and for example the oils sold under the trade names of Isopars' or Permyls, branched esters of C ₈ -Ci6 such as isohexyl neopentanoate and their mixtures. Preferably, the volatile solvent is chosen from volatile hydrocarbon oils having from 8 to 16 carbon atoms and their mixtures. Preferably, isododecane (Permyls 99 A), C ₈ - C ₆ isoparaffins (Isopars L, E, H), their mixtures, optionally combined with decamethyl tetrasiloxane, are used.

The additional oils, in particular the volatile additional oils, represent in particular a mass content of 5 to 97.5% relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 10 to 75% and better still from 15 to 45%. Generally, the amount of volatile solvent is used in an amount sufficient to obtain non-transfer properties. This quantity will be adapted by a person skilled in the art as a function of the intensity of the desired transfer-free properties.

The composition of the invention may also comprise any additive usually used in the field concerned, chosen in particular from coloring matters, antioxidants, essential oils, preservatives, perfumes, fillers, waxes, pasty products or viscous at room temperature, neutralizers, liposoluble or dispersible polymers in the medium, cosmetic or dermatological active agents having a beneficial effect on the skin, the lips and the integuments such as, for example, emollients, moisturizers, vitamins (A, C, D, E, F), essential fatty acids, sunscreens, dispersants such as poly (12-hydroxystearic acid), and mixtures thereof. These additives can be present in the composition at a rate of 0 to 20% (in particular from 0.01 to 20%) of the total weight of the composition and better still from 0.01 to 10%. Advantageously, the composition contains at least one cosmetic or dermatological active ingredient.

The composition of the invention can, in addition, contain as additive an aqueous phase containing water optionally thickened or gelled by a thickener or a gelling agent of aqueous phase and optionally compounds miscible with water. Water can represent from 0.5 to 50% and better still from 1 to 30%, of the total weight of the composition.

Of course, those skilled in the art will take care to choose any additional additives and / or their quantity in such a way that the advantageous properties of the composition according to the invention are not or substantially not affected by the addition envisaged.

The composition according to the invention may be in the form of a tinted or non-tinted, dermatological or care composition for keratin materials such as the skin, the lips and / or the integuments, in the form of a sun protection composition or 'personal hygiene in particular in the form of a deodorant or make-up removing product in the form of a stick. It can in particular be used as a care base for the skin, the integuments or the lips (lip balms, protecting the lips from the cold and / or the sun and / or the wind, care cream for the skin, nails or hair).

The composition of the invention may also be in the form of a colored product for making up the skin, in particular a foundation, optionally having care or treatment properties, a blush, a blush or eyelids, concealer, eyeliner, body makeup; make-up of the lips such as a lipstick, possibly having care or treatment properties; makeup makeup appendages such as nails, eyelashes in particular in the form of a bread mascara, eyebrows and hair in particular in the form of pencil, or gel nail polish.

Of course, the composition of the invention must be cosmetically or dermatologically acceptable, ie contain a physiologically acceptable medium which is non-toxic and capable of being applied to the skin, the integuments or the lips of human beings. By cosmetically acceptable is meant within the meaning of the invention a composition of pleasant appearance, odor, touch and taste.

Advantageously, the composition contains at least one cosmetic active and / or one dermatological active and / or at least one coloring matter. Thanks to the combination of at least one volatile solvent and at least one polymer with an average molecular mass of less than 1,000,000, for example less than 500,000 and better still less than or equal to 100,000, as defined above, trapping of the active ingredients and coloring matters present in the composition, making it possible to maintain them where they have been applied, namely the lips, the skin or the integuments such as keratin fibers, after evaporation of the volatile solvent (s), and to limit their transfer or redeposit on a support different from that on which they were applied.

The coloring matter according to the invention can be chosen from lipophilic dyes, hydrophilic dyes, pigments and nacres (or pearlescent pigments) usually used in cosmetic or dermatological compositions, and mixtures thereof. This coloring material is generally present in an amount of 0.01 to 50% of the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0.5 to 40% and better still from 5 to 30%, if it is present. In the case of a composition in the form of a free or compacted powder, the amount of coloring matter in the form of solid particles which are not soluble in the medium (nacres and / or pigments) can range up to 90% of the total weight of the composition .

The liposoluble dyes are for example Sudan red, DC Red 17, DC Green 6, β-carotene, soybean oil, Sudan brown, DC Yellow 11, DC Violet 2, DC orange 5, quinoline yellow, annatto. They can represent from 0.1 to 20% of the weight of the composition and better still from 0.1 to 6%.

The pigments can be white or colored, mineral and / or organic, coated or not. Among the mineral pigments, mention may be made of titanium dioxide, optionally surface-treated, oxides of zirconium, zinc or cerium, as well as oxides of iron or chromium, manganese violet, ultramarine blue, l hydrate of chromium and ferric blue. Among the organic pigments, there may be mentioned carbon black, pigments of the D & C type, and lakes based on cochineal carmine, barium, strontium, calcium, aluminum. The pigments can represent from 0.1 to 50%, preferably from 0.5 to 40% and better still from 2 to 30% of the total weight of the composition, if they are present.

The pearlescent pigments can be chosen from white pearlescent pigments such as mica coated with titanium or bismuth oxychloride, colored pearlescent pigments such as mica titanium with iron oxides, mica titanium with especially ferric blue or chromium oxide, titanium mica with an organic pigment of the aforementioned type as well as pearlescent pigments based on bismuth oxychloride. They can represent from 0.1 to 20% of the total weight of the composition and better still from 0.1 to 15%, if they are present. Pearlescent pigments may or may not be treated.

Preferably, the composition contains pigments, pearlescent or not.

The composition may optionally contain one or more waxes to improve the structuring in the form of a stick, although this rigid form can be obtained in the absence of wax. A wax, within the meaning of the present invention, is a lipophilic fatty compound, solid at room temperature (25 ° C), with reversible solid / liquid state change, having a melting temperature above 40 ° C and better still above 45 ° C being able to go up to 200 ° C, and having in the solid state an anisotropic crystalline organization. The size of the crystals is such that the crystals diffract and or scatter light, giving the composition a cloudy, more or less opaque appearance. By bringing the wax to its melting point, it is possible to make it miscible with oils and to form a homogeneous mixture microscopically, but by bringing the temperature of the mixture to room temperature, the wax is recrystallized from the oils of the mixed. It is this recrystallization from the mixture which is responsible for the reduction in the gloss of said mixture. Also, advantageously the composition contains little or no wax, and in particular less than 5% of wax.

Waxes, in the sense of demand, are those generally used in the cosmetic and dermatological fields; they are in particular of natural origin such as beeswax, Camauba wax, Candellila wax, from Ouricoury, from Japan, from cork or sugar cane fibers, paraffin waxes, lignite, microcrystalline waxes, lanolin wax, Montan wax, ozokerites, hydrogenated oils such as oil hydrogenated jojoba, but also of synthetic origin such as polyethylene waxes resulting from the polymerization of ethylene, waxes obtained by Fischer-Tropsch synthesis, fatty acid esters and concrete glycerides at 40 ° C and better at 45 ° C, silicone waxes such as alkyl, alkoxy and / or poly (di) methylsiloxane esters solid at 40 ° C and better at 45 ° C.

Advantageously, the composition of the invention also contains at least one liposoluble or dispersible polymer in the medium having in particular an average molecular weight of 500 to 1,000,000 and better still from 5,000 to 15,000. This or these liposoluble polymers contribute in particular to increase the viscosity and / or improve the behavior of the film. These liposoluble polymers advantageously have a softening temperature at most equal to 30 ° C.

By way of example of liposoluble polymers which can be used in the invention, mention may be made of: polyalkylenes, in particular polybutene, poly (meth) acrylates, alkylcelluloses with a linear or branched alkyl radical, saturated or not of Ci to C ₈ such as ethylcellulose and propylcellulose, silicone polymers compatible with the fatty phase as well as vinylpyrrolidone (VP) copolymers and their mixtures.

Preferably, the vinylpyrrolidone copolymers are used, the C ₂ to C ₃ and better C ₃ to C 22 alkene copolymers, and their combinations. As an example of a VP copolymer which can be used in the invention, mention may be made of the copolymer of VP / vinyl acetate, VP / ethyl methacrylate, butylated polyvinylpyrrolidone (PVP), VP / ethyl methacrylate / methacrylic acid, VP / eicosene, VP / hexadecene, VP / triacontene, VP / styrene, VP / acrylic acid / lauryl methacrylate.

Preferably, not only for the holding properties but also for the feel and consistency of the film, the PVP / hexadecene copolymer having an average molecular weight of 7000 to 7500 is used or PVP / eicosene having a mean molecular weight of 8000 at 9000.

The liposoluble or dispersible polymers of the composition of the invention are advantageously used in an amount of 0.01% to 20% (in active material) of the total weight of the composition and better still from 1% to 10%, if they are present.

The composition according to the invention also advantageously contains at least one fatty compound which is pasty at room temperature. By "pasty fatty substance" to meaning of the invention, fatty substances having a melting point ranging from

20 to 55 ° C, preferably 25 to 45 ° C and better still 25 to 40 ° C, and / or a viscosity at 40 ° C ranging from 0.1 to 40 Pa.s (1 to 400 poises), preferably 0.5 to 25 Pa.s, measured at Contraves TV or Rhéomat 180, equipped with a mobile rotating at 240 min ^-1 for a power supply at 60 Hz or at 200 min ^"1 for a power supply at 50 Hz Those skilled in the art can choose the mobile for measuring the viscosity, from the mobile MS-r3 and MS-r4, on the basis of their general knowledge, so as to be able to measure the pasty compound tested. invention, one or more pasty fatty substances are used. Preferably, these fatty substances are hydrocarbon compounds, optionally of polymeric type; they can also be chosen from silicone and / or fluorinated compounds; it can also be in the form of a mixture of hydrocarbon and / or silicone and / or fluorinated compounds. In the case of a mixture of different s pasty fatty substances, use is preferably made of pasty hydrocarbon compounds in the majority proportion.

Among the pasty compounds capable of being used in the composition according to the invention, mention may be made of lanolins and lanolin derivatives such as acetylated lanolins or oxypropylene lanolins, having a viscosity of 18 to

21 Pa.s, preferably 19 to 20.5 Pa.s, and / or a melting point of 30 to 55 ° C and better still 30 to 40 ° C and their mixtures. It is also possible to use esters of fatty acids or alcohols, in particular those having 20 to 65 carbon atoms (melting point of the order of 20 to 35 ° C and / or viscosity at 40 ° C ranging from 0, 1 to 40 Pa.s) such as tri-isostearyl or cetyl citrate; arachidyl propionate; vinyl polylaurate; cholesterol esters such as triglycerides of plant origin such as hydrogenated vegetable oils, viscous polyesters such as poly (12-hydroxystearic acid) and their mixtures. As triglycerides of plant origin, it is possible to use derivatives of hydrogenated castor oil, such as "THIXINR" from Rheox.

Mention may also be made of silicone pasty fatty substances such as polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) having pendant chains of the alkyl or alkoxy type having from 8 to 24 carbon atoms, and a melting point of 20-55 ° C. and better still from 25 to 40 ° C, such as stearyl dimethicones, in particular those sold by the company Dow Corning under the trade names of DC2503 and DC25514, and their mixtures.

The pasty fatty substance (s) may be present in an amount of 0.1 to 60% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably in an amount of 1 - 45% by weight and even more preferably in an amount of 2- 30% by weight, in the composition, if they are present. The composition according to the invention can be produced by known methods, generally used in the cosmetic or dermatological field. It can be manufactured by the process which consists in heating the polymer at least to its softening temperature, in adding thereto the amphiphilic compound (s), non-volatile oils including non-volatile fluorinated oils, dyes and additives and then mixing all until a clear, transparent solution is obtained. Then added to the mixture obtained, after lowering the temperature or volatile solvents. The homogeneous mixture obtained can then be poured into a suitable mold such as a lipstick mold or directly into the packaging articles (case or cup in particular).

The subject of the invention is also a lipstick stick composition containing at least one continuous liquid fatty phase comprising at least one fluorinated oil, the liquid fatty phase being structured by at least one non-waxy polymer giving the composition the appearance of a deformable, elastic solid, of hardness ranging from 30 to 300 gf (measured according to the butter cutting wire method described above), in the absence of wax.

Advantageously, this lipstick stick composition contains an additive chosen from fatty compounds which are pasty at room temperature, liposoluble polymers and their mixtures, as defined above. The non-waxy polymer is preferably a polymer the backbone of which comprises heteroatom hydrocarbon units, as defined above, in particular having a molecular mass of less than 100,000.

The subject of the invention is also a cosmetic process for caring for, making up or treating keratin materials of human beings and in particular of the skin, lips and integuments, comprising the application to the keratin materials of the composition in particular cosmetic such as defined above.

The subject of the invention is also the use of the combination of at least one liquid fatty phase containing a fluorinated oil and at least one polymer of average molecular mass by weight less than or equal to 1,000,000, comprising a) a polymer backbone, having hydrocarbon repeating units provided with at least one heteroatom, and b) optionally at least one pendant fatty chain and / or at least one terminal fatty chain optionally functionalized, having from 6 to 120 carbon atoms and being linked to these hydrocarbon units, in a cosmetic composition or for the manufacture of a physiologically acceptable composition, in order to reduce the transfer and / or the deposit of traces of a film of said composition, applied to keratin materials, on a support in contact with said film and / or increase the hold of said film and / or obtain a non-sticky film. This film is, moreover, brilliant and / or comfortable. This combination advantageously contains an additional volatile oil.

According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition is in bi-product form and more especially in bi-product stick. Each product can be applied separately to keratin materials and in particular the skin or the lips or one after the other in order to form a two-layer treatment or make-up, with properties adapted to the choice of the user. Thus, it is possible to obtain a monolayer, in particular a glossy, comfortable film or a non-sticky film without transfer or in bi-layer, a film of good resistance over time, brilliant, non-sticky and comfortable.

The invention is illustrated in more detail in the following examples. The quantities are given in percentage by mass.

Example 1: Lipstick

Phase A

. Uniclear 100 18%

. fluorinated silicone (X22819 from Shin Etsu) 5%. Castor oil 2%

. Iso-paraffin hydrogenated 4%

. Isononyl isononanoate 4%

. Phenyl trimethylsiloxy trisiloxane 8%

. Vinylpyrrolidone / 1-eicosene 2% copolymer

Phase B

. Pigments (iron oxide) 10%

. Iso-paraffin hydrogenated 5%

. 5% liquid lanolin. Poly (12-hydroxystearic) acid 2%

(Solsperse 21,000 from Avecia)

Phase C

. Isododecane 25%. Decamethyl tetrasiloxane 10%

The pigment phase (B) is ground using a three-cylinder mill and introduced into the oil phase A previously heated to 100 ° C. until the mixture is completely homogenized. The volatile phase C is then added to the preceding mixture brought back to 85 ° C. The whole is left in contact for 10 min and then poured into lipstick molds. We then obtain a bi-product stick. Indeed, the sticks obtained have two parts: a bright colored upper end which deposits a bright colored film on the lips and a lower end which deposits a non-sticky film without transfer on the lips. In addition, the stick does not exude at room temperature (25 ° C) for at least 2 months.

It is thus possible to carry out with the same stick and at the choice of the user, 3 different types of makeup: a makeup without monolayer transfer, a glossy monolayer makeup or a two-layer makeup. The base layer, in contact with the lips, is in particular the non-sticky layer without transfer, and the upper layer, applied to the base layer is the glossy layer. We can also reverse the order of the two layers. The final makeup obtained is good, comfortable, non-sticky and shiny.

Example 2: Lipstick

Phase A. Uniclear 100 18%

. Castor oil 8%

. Iso-paraffin hydrogenated 5%

. Isononyl isononanoate 5%

. Phenyl trimethylsiloxy trisiloxane 8%. Vinylpyrrolidone / 1-eicosene 2% copolymer

Phase B

. Pigments (iron oxide) 10%. Hydrogenated iso-paraffin 5 0 // o. Liquid lanolin 5%

. Poly (12-hydroxystearic) acid 2% (Solsperse 21,000 from Avecia)

Phase C. Nonafluoromethoxybutane 5 0 // o. Isododecane 22 / o. Decamethyl tetrasiloxane 5 o // o

The pigment phase (B) is ground using a three-cylinder mill and introduced into the oil phase A previously heated to 100 ° C. until the mixture is completely homogenized. The volatile phase C is then added to the preceding mixture brought back to 85 ° C. The whole is left in contact for 10 min and then poured into lipstick molds.

A bi-product stick is also obtained, with a bright colored upper end and a non-sticky lower end without transfer. We can then perform 3 types of makeup in monolayer or bi-layer. In addition, the bi-product stick does not exude at room temperature for at least 2 months. Example 3: Lipstick

Phase A

. Uniclear 100 18%

. fluorinated silicone (X22819 from Shin Etsu i) 5%

Phase B

. Pigments (iron oxide) 10%

. Poly (12-hydroxystearic) acid 1, 3%

(Solsperse 21,000 from Avecia)

Phase C

. Parléam 13.8%

. Isononyl isononanoate qs 100%

The lipstick is prepared as in Examples 1 and 2.

One obtains, here, sticks mono-product which deposit a brilliant film, not sticky and non-transfer. The sticks do not exudate at room temperature for at least 2 months.

Claims

1. Structured composition containing at least one liquid fatty phase comprising at least one fluorinated oil, the liquid fatty phase being structured by at least one polymer of average molecular mass by weight less than or equal to 1 000 000, comprising a) a polymer backbone, having hydrocarbon repeating units provided with at least one heteroatom, and b) optionally at least one pendant fatty chain and / or at least one terminal fatty chain optionally functionalized, having from 6 to 120 carbon atoms and being linked to these hydrocarbon units , the liquid fatty phase and the polymer forming a physiologically acceptable medium.

2. Composition according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that the average molar mass of the first polymer is less than or equal to 500,000 and better still less than or equal to 100,000.

3. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the heteroatom units of the polymer comprise a nitrogen atom.

4. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the heteroatom units are amide groups.

5. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the fatty chains represent from 40 to 98% of the total number of heteroatom units and fatty chains.

6. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the fatty chains represent from 50 to 95% of the total number of heteroatom units and fatty chains.

7. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the pendant fatty chains are linked directly to at least one of said heteroatoms.

8. Structured composition containing at least one liquid fatty phase comprising at least one fluorinated oil, the liquid fatty phase being structured by at least one polyamide of average molecular weight by weight less than or equal to 1,000,000, comprising a) a polymer backbone, having repeating amide units, and b) optionally at least one pendant fatty chain and / or at least one terminal fatty chain optionally functionalized, having from 6 to 120 carbon atoms and being linked to these amide units, the liquid fatty phase and the polyamide forming a physiologically acceptable medium.

9. Composition according to claim 8, characterized in that the average molecular weight of the polymer is less than or equal to 500,000 and better still less than or equal to 100,000.

10. Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the fatty chains represent from 40 to 98% of the total number of amide units and fatty chains.

11. Composition according to one of claims 8 to 10, characterized in that the fatty chains represent from 50 to 95% of the total number of amide units and fatty chains.

12. Composition according to one of claims 8 to 11, characterized in that the pendant fatty chains are linked directly to at least one of the nitrogen atoms of the amide units.

13. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the weight-average molar mass ranges from 1,000 to 30,000, and better still from 2,000 to 10,000.

14. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the terminal fatty chains are linked to the skeleton by linking groups.

15. Composition according to claim 14, characterized in that the linking groups are ester groups.

16. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the fatty chains have from 12 to 68 carbon atoms.

17. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the polymer is chosen from the polymers of formula (I) below and their mixtures:

R ⁴

R ¹ - O— [- C— R ² - C— N— R ³ - N—] _n - C— R ² - C— O— R ¹ (I)

I IIIIII oooo in which n denotes a number of amide units such that the number of ester groups represents from 10% to 50% of the total number of ester and amide groups; R ¹ is independently at each occurrence an alkyl or alkenyl group having at least 4 carbon atoms; R ² independently represents at each occurrence a C ₄ to C hydrocarbon group, provided that 50% of the R ² groups represent a C ₃ to C ₄₂ hydrocarbon group; R ³ independently represents at each occurrence an organic group provided with at least 2 carbon atoms, hydrogen atoms and optionally one or more oxygen or nitrogen atoms; and R ⁴ independently represents at each occurrence a hydrogen atom, a C1-C10 alkyl group or a direct bond to R ³ or another R ⁴ so that the nitrogen atom to which both R ³ are bonded and R ⁴ is part of a heterocyclic structure defined by R ⁴ -NR ³ , with at least 50% of the R ⁴ representing a hydrogen atom.

18. Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that R ¹ is a C12 to C22 alkyl group.

19. Composition according to one of claims 17 or 18, characterized in that R ² are groups having from 30 to 42 carbon atoms.

20. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the polymer represents from 0.5 to 80% of the total weight of the composition and better still from 5 to 40%.

21. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the fluorinated oil is a fluorosilicone compound of formula (II):

(II)

in which :

R represents a linear or branched divalent alkyl group having 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably a divalent methyl, ethyl, propyl or butyl group,

Rf represents a fluoroalkyl radical, in particular a perfluoroalkyl radical, having 1 to 9 carbon atoms, preferably 1 to 4 carbon atoms,

- m is chosen from 0 to 150, preferably from 20 to 100, and

- n is chosen from 1 to 300, preferably from 1 to 100.

22. Composition according to Claim 21, characterized in that the groups Ri are identical and represent a methyl radical.

23. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the fluorinated oil is a fluorosilicone compound of the following formula (III):

with

- R representing a divalent group, methyl, ethyl, propyl or butyl

- m being chosen from 0 to 80, and

- n being chosen from 1 to 30.

24. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the fluorinated oil is chosen from perfluorocycloalkyls of formula (IV) below:

(ÇF ₂ ) n | ÇF- (CF ₂ ) -F (IV) m

25. Composition according to Claim 24, characterized in that the fluorinated oil is chosen from perfluoromethylcyclopentane, perfluorodimethylcyclobutane.

26. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the fluorinated oil is chosen from fluoroalkyl or heterofluoroalkyl compounds corresponding to the following formula (V):

CH ₃ - (CH ₂ ) n- [Z] tX-CF3 (V)

where t is 0 or 1; n is 0, 1, 2 or 3; X is a divalent, linear or branched perfluoroalkyl radical having from 2 to 5 carbon atoms, and Z represents O, S, or NR, R being hydrogen, a radical - (CH2) _n -CH3 or - (CF2) _m -CF3, m being 2, 3, 4 or 5.

27. Composition according to Claim 26, characterized in that the fluorinated oil is chosen from methoxynonafluorobutane and ethoxynonafluorobutane.

28. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the fluorinated oil is chosen from perfluoroalkane compounds corresponding to the following formula (VI):

CF ₃ - (CF ₂ ) _n -CF ₃ (VI) where n is 2 to 6.

29. Composition according to claim 28, characterized in that the fluorinated oil is chosen from dodecafluoropentane and tetradecafluorodexane.

30. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the fluorinated oil is chosen from perfluomorpholine derivatives corresponding to the following formula (VII):

in which R represents a dC ₄ perfluoroalkyl radical.

31. Composition according to claim 30, characterized in that the fluorinated oil is chosen from 4-trifluoromethyl perfluoromorpholine and

4-pentafluoroethyl perfluoromorpholine.

32. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the fluorinated oil is chosen from perfluoropolyethers corresponding to the following formulas (VIII) and (IX):

where n is 7 to 30; and

the mp ratio being from 20 to 40, and the molecular weight ranging from 500 to 20,000.

33. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the fluorinated oil is chosen from fluorosilicone compounds corresponding to the following formula (X):

(X)

where k is 1 to 17, I is 1 to 18, p is 1 to 6, and R- | represents a hydrogen atom or a C1-C6 alkyl radical; R2 represents a C- alkyl radical | -Ce or the radical -OSi (R3) 3, and R3 represents a C1 -C4 alkyl radical.

34. Composition according to claim 33, characterized in that the fluorinated oil is chosen from: - N - (- 2-F-octyl-ethyloxycarbonyl) -3-aminopropyl bis (trimethylsiloxy) methylsilane,

- N - (- 2-F-hexyl-ethyloxycarbonyl) -3-aminopropyl tris (trimethylsiloxy) silane,

35. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the fluorinated oil is chosen from fluorinated alkylsilicones corresponding to the following formula (XI):

in which R- | and R'-j independently represent an alkyl radical, linear or branched, having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms or a phenyl radical, R2 represents R- | , -OH, or - (CH2) f-RF. ^τ being an integer ranging from 0 to 10,

RF represents a radical of formula - (CF2) q-CF3, q being an integer ranging from 0 to 10, m and n representing an integer ranging from 1 to 50, and p representing an integer ranging from 0 to 2000.

36. Composition according to claim 35, characterized in that R _{1 #} and R ₂ represent the methyl radical,

R ₃ represents a linear alkyl radical having 6 to 22 carbon atoms, m and n are integers ranging from 1 to 20, and q is an integer ranging from 0 to 3.

37. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the fluorinated oil is chosen from fluorinated alkylsilicones corresponding to the following formula (XII):

in which :

R ₄ represents an alkyl radical, linear or branched, having 1 to 6 carbon atoms, or a phenyl radical, R ₅ represents an alkyl radical, linear or branched, having 6 to 22 carbon atoms, or a phenyl radical,

R ' _F represents a radical of formula - (CF ₂ ) _S -CF ₃ , s being an integer ranging from 0 to 15, and t represents an integer ranging from 1 to 2000.

38. Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that R ₄ represents the methyl radical, R ₅ represents a linear alkyl radical, having from 6 to 22 carbon atoms, and s represents an integer ranging from 1 to 13.

39. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the fluorinated oil is present in a content ranging from 0.1% to 50% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, and preferably ranging from 1% to 30% by weight, and better still from 3% to 15% by weight.

40. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises an additional oil, different from said fluorinated oil.

41. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it also contains at least one additional volatile oil.

42. Composition according to claim 41, characterized in that the additional volatile oil is chosen from volatile hydrocarbon oils having from 8 to 16 carbon atoms and their mixtures.

43. Composition according to claim 41 or 42, characterized in that the additional volatile oil is chosen from branched alkanes of C ₈ -Cι ₆ , branched esters of C ₈ -Cι ₆ and their mixtures.

5 44. Composition according to one of claims 39 to 42, characterized in that the additional volatile oil is chosen from C ₈ -C ₆ isoparaffins, isododecane and their mixtures.

45. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the liquid fatty phase contains, in addition, at least one additional non-volatile oil, different from the said fluorinated oil.

46. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the liquid fatty phase also contains at least one additional non-volatile oil chosen from hydrocarbon-based oils of mineral, vegetable or synthetic origin, esters or synthetic ethers, silicone oils and mixtures thereof.

47. Composition according to one of claims 40 to 46, characterized in that the additional oil, volatile or non-volatile, represents a mass content of

5 to 97.5%, preferably 10 to 75% and better still 15 to 45%.

48. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the liquid fatty phase contains at least 30% of the total weight of the liquid fatty phase 5 of apolar oil and better still from 50 to 100% of the total weight of the liquid fatty phase.

49. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the liquid fatty phase represents from 5 to 99% of the total weight of the composition and better still from 20 to 75%.

50. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it constitutes a care and / or treatment and / or makeup composition for keratin materials.

51. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it also contains at least one coloring matter.

52. Composition according to claim 51, characterized in that the coloring matter is chosen from lipophilic dyes, hydrophilic dyes, pigments, nacres and their mixtures.

53. Composition according to claim 51 or 52, characterized in that the coloring matter is present in an amount of 0.01 to 50% of the total weight of the composition, preferably from 5 to 30%.

54. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it contains at least one additive chosen from water, antioxidants, essential oils, preservatives, perfumes, fillers, waxes, compounds fatty pasty at room temperature, neutralizers, liposoluble or dispersible polymers in the medium, cosmetic or dermatological active agents, dispersants, and their mixtures.

55. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it contains at least one liposoluble or dispersible polymer in the medium chosen from vinylpyrrolidone copolymers, C ₃ to C 22 alkene copolymers and their associations .

56. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it is in the form of a rigid gel, and in particular of an anhydrous stick.

57. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it is in the form of mascara, eyeliner, foundation, lipstick, blush, deodorant or make-up remover, product for making up the body, eyeshadow or blush, concealer, shampoo, conditioner, sunscreen, facial or body care product, nail polish.

58. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it is in the form of a stick with a hardness ranging from 30 to 300 gf.

59. Lipstick stick composition containing at least one continuous liquid fatty phase comprising at least one fluorinated oil, the liquid fatty phase being structured by at least one non-waxy polymer giving the composition the appearance of an elastic deformable solid hardness ranging from 30 to 300 gf, in the absence of wax.

60. Composition according to claim 59, characterized in that it also comprises at least one additive chosen from fatty compounds which are pasty at room temperature, liposoluble polymers and their mixtures.

61. Cosmetic method for caring for, making up or treating keratin materials of human beings, comprising the application to the keratin materials of a cosmetic composition according to one of the preceding claims.

62. Use of a liquid fatty phase containing a fluorinated oil and at least one polymer of average molecular mass by weight less than or equal to 1,000,000, comprising a) a polymer backbone having hydrocarbon repeating units provided with at least one heteroatom, and b) optionally at least one pendant fatty chain and / or at least one terminal fatty chain optionally functionalized, having from 6 to 120 carbon atoms and being linked to these hydrocarbon-based units, in a cosmetic composition or for the manufacture of a physiologically acceptable composition, to reduce the transfer and / or the deposit of traces of a film of said composition, applied to keratin materials, on a support brought into contact with said film, and / or to increase the staying power of said film, and / or obtain a non-sticky film.

63. Use according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the polymer is a polyamide comprising terminal groups with ester group comprising a hydrocarbon chain having from 10 to 42 carbon atoms.

64. Composition according to one of claims 1 to 59, characterized in that it is in the "bi-product" form.