WO2002047657A2

WO2002047657A2 - Composition containing heteropolymers and oil-soluble polymers

Info

Publication number: WO2002047657A2
Application number: PCT/US2001/047454
Authority: WO
Inventors: Carlos O. Pinzon; Paul Thau
Original assignee: L'oreal Sa
Priority date: 2000-12-12
Filing date: 2001-12-12
Publication date: 2002-06-20
Also published as: AU2002226051A1; US20020120036A1; US7276547B2; US20030125427A9; WO2002047657A3; JP4614620B2; BR0108280A; CN1404386A; JP2004515524A; EP1392233A2; CA2398398A1; CN1230146C

Abstract

Structured compositions comprising at least one structuring polymer and at least one oil-soluble polymer chosen from alkyl celluloses and alkylated guar gums. The at least one structuring polymer may be a polyamide polymer. This invention may be in the form of stable compositions such as, for example, make-up sticks, lip compositions, sunscreen sticks, anhydrous lip compositions, and anhydrous foundations.

Description

COMPOSITIONS CONTAINING HETEROPOLYMERS AND OIL-SOLUBLE POLYMERS AND METHODS OF USING SAME

The present invention relates to compositions and methods for care of, for treating, and for making-up at least one keratinous material, for example, at least one human keratinous material, such as skin, including the scalp, lips, superficial body growths, including the nails, and/or at least one keratinous fiber which includes hair, eyelashes, and eyebrows. In one embodiment, the compositions of the invention comprise at least one structuring polymer and at least one oil-soluble polymer chosen from alkyl celluloses and alkylated guar gums. The invention may be in the form of a stable composition such as, for example, make-up sticks, lipsticks, transparent sticks, and sunscreen sticks. The compositions may also, for example, provide a molded composition.

The use of high molecular weight polymers, i.e., polyamides, to produce clear stick compositions dates back to the mid 1960's. These systems contained a combination of polyamide polymer, castor oil, esters, amides, and colorants as described in, for example, U.S. Patent Nos. 3,086,914 and 3,148,125. However, there were significant drawbacks associated with such compositions. For example, the sticks were tacky and difficult to apply to the lips. During storage, for example, at slightly elevated temperatures, the stick surface developed distinct oil droplets (syneresis) which were not reabsorbed after the stick cooled to normal room temperature.

There have been many attempts to resolve the aforementioned technical problems with only partial success. The introduction of new specialty cosmetic esters has made it possible to reduce product tackiness and thereby improve application characteristics. However, these modifications did not diminish the tendency of these formulations to have stability problems such as developing distinct and unattractive oil syneresis. In some instances, these modified formulations also displayed poor temperature stability at 50°C. The inventors have found that the use of combinations of at least one structuring polymer, e.g., a polyamide polymer, and at least one oil-soluble polymer chosen from alkyl celluloses and alkylated guar gums may result in a stable composition. In one embodiment, the composition of the invention also may provide good gelling efficiency and/or maintain desirable cosmetic application properties.

In one embodiment, the invention provides a composition comprising at least one structuring polymer, e.g., a polyamide polymer, comprising a polymer skeleton which comprises at least one hydrocarbon-based repeating unit comprising at least one heteroatom. The composition further comprises at least one liquid fatty phase comprising at least one oil-soluble polymer chosen from alkyl celluloses and alkylated guar gums. In a further embodiment, the at least one structuring polymer, e.g., a polyamide polymer, and the at least one oil-soluble polymer chosen from alkyl celluloses and alkylated guar gums are present in a combined amount effective to stabilize the composition. Due to the good stability of the compositions of the invention, it is possible to add at least one UV blocker to the composition. As used herein, the expression "at least one" means one or more and thus includes individual components as well as mixtures and combinations thereof.

The invention also provides a method for providing stability to a composition comprising including in the composition at least one structuring polymer, e.g., a polyamide polymer, comprising a polymer skeleton which comprises at least one hydrocarbon-based repeating unit comprising at least one heteroatom. The composition further comprises at least one oil-soluble polymer chosen from alkyl celluloses and alkylated guar gums.

The invention also provides for a cosmetic process for caring for, making up, and/or treating at least one keratinous material comprising applying to at least one keratinous material a cosmetic composition comprising at least one structuring polymer, e.g., a polyamide polymer, comprising a polymer skeleton which comprises at least one hydrocarbon- based repeating unit comprising at least one heteroatom. The composition further comprises at least one oil-soluble polymer chosen from alkyl celluloses and alkylated guar gums. As used herein, "keratinous material" is meant to comprise hair, lips, skin, scalp and superficial body growths such as eyelashes, eyebrows and nails.

It is to be understood that both the foregoing general description and the following detailed description are exemplary and explanatory only and are not restrictive of the invention as claimed.

One subject of the invention is cosmetic and/or dermatological compositions which are useful for the care, make-up and/or treatment of at least one keratinous material which may be of suitable hardness to allow preparation of these compositions in the form of a stick or other structured form which may be stable.

As defined herein, stability can be tested by placing the composition in a controlled environment chamber for 8 weeks at 25°C. In this test, the physical condition of the sample is inspected as it is placed in the chamber. The sample is then inspected again at 24 hours, 3 days, 1 week, 2 weeks, 4 weeks and 8 weeks. At each inspection, the sample is examined for abnormalities in the composition such as bending or leaning if the composition is in stick form, phase separation, melting, or syneresis. As used herein, syneresis is the appearance of droplets on the surface of a composition that are visible to the naked eye. Syneresis or oil release from a composition, such as a stick, that is only apparent as a thin, attractive, and glossy, surface coating is not considered a composition that has failed the stability test. The stability is further tested by repeating the 8 week test at 4°C, 37°C, 45°C, and 50°C, and under freeze-thaw conditions. A composition is considered to lack stability if an abnormality that impedes functioning of the composition is observed in any of these tests. The skilled artisan will readily recognize an abnormality that impedes functioning of a composition based on the intended application.

The invention applies not only to make-up products for at least one keratinous material such as lip compositions, lip pencils, foundations including foundations which may be cast in the form of a stick or a dish, concealer products, temporary tattoo products, eyeliners, and mascara bars, but also to body hygiene products such as deodorant sticks, and to care products and products for treating at least one keratinous material such as sunscreen (anti- sun) and after-sun products which may be in stick form, and also nail products. It is to be noted that a deodorant product is a body hygiene product and does not relate to care, make-up, or treatment of at least one keratinous material, including keratinous fibers, skin, or lips.

The present invention may be in the form of a mascara product, an eyeliner product, a foundation product, a lipstick product, a lip balm, a blush for cheeks or eyelids, a deodorant product, a fragrance product, a make-up product for the body, a make-up-removing product, an eyeshadow product, a face powder product, a night or day care product for the face, a concealer product, a hair conditioning product, a sunscreen, a colorant for the skin or hair, or a skin care formula such as, for example, anti-pimple or shaving cut formulas. According to one embodiment of the invention, the composition is in the form of a substantially clear or substantially transparent composition such as, for example, a clear lipstick, clear sunscreen composition, or clear foundation, such as, for example, for concealing skin imperfections.

For example, the composition of the present invention may be in a form chosen from a paste, a solid, a gel, and a cream. It may be an emulsion, i.e., an oil-in-water or water-in-oil emulsion, a multiple emulsion, e.g., an oil-in-water-in-oil emulsion or water-in-oil-in-water emulsion, or a solid, rigid, or supple gel, including anhydrous gels. In one embodiment, the composition of the invention comprises an external or continuous liquid fatty phase. By "external or continuous" phase, it is meant, by way of example, the water phase in a water-in-oil emulsion, wherein the oil droplets are dispersed throughout the external or continuous water phase.

In another embodiment, the composition of the invention is transparent or clear. The composition can also be in a form chosen from a translucent anhydrous gel and a transparent anhydrous gel. The composition can also be a molded composition or cast as a stick or a dish. The composition in one embodiment is a solid or rigid product, such as a molded stick or a poured stick.

Structuring polymer

In one embodiment, the at least one structuring polymer in the composition of the invention is a solid that is not deformable at room temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg, i.e., 101 kPa). In a further embodiment, the at least one structuring polymer is capable of structuring the composition without opacifying it. This may be due to the fact that the polymer does not crystallize. Moreover, the structuring of the liquid fatty phase comprising the at least one structuring polymer may be due to the hydrogen interactions between two molecules of the polymer and/or between the molecules of the polymer and the liquid fatty phase. As defined above, the at least one structuring polymer of the present invention comprises a polymer skeleton comprising at least one hydrocarbon-based repeating unit comprising at least one heteroatom. In one embodiment, the at least one structuring polymer further comprises at least one terminal fatty chain chosen from alkyl and alkenyl chains, such as of at least 4 carbon atoms, and further such as comprising from 8 to 120 carbon atoms, bonded to the polymer skeleton via at least one linking group. The terminal fatty chain may, for example, be functionalized. The at least one structuring polymer may also further comprise at least one pendant fatty chain chosen from alkyl and alkenyl chains, such as of at least 4 carbon atoms, and further such as comprising from 8 to 120 carbon atoms, bonded to any carbon or heteroatom of the polymer skeleton via at least one linking group. The pendant fatty chain may, for example, be functionalized. The at least one structuring polymer may comprise at least one pendant fatty chain as defined above, at least one terminal fatty chain as defined above, or both, and one or both types of chains can be functionalized.

In one embodiment, the at least one structuring polymer comprises at least two hydrocarbon-based repeating units. As a further example, the at least one structuring polymer comprises at least three hydrocarbon-based repeating units and as an even further example, the at least three repeating units are identical.

As used herein, "functionalized" means comprising at least one functional (reactive) group. Non-limiting examples of functional groups include hydroxyl groups, ether groups, oxyalkylene groups, polyoxyalkylene groups, carboxylic acid groups, amine groups, amide groups, halogen containing groups, including fluoro and perfluoro groups, halogen atoms, ester groups, siloxane groups and polysiloxane groups.

For purposes of the invention, the expression "functionalized chain" means, for example, an alkyl chain comprising at least one functional group chosen, for example, from those recited above. For example, in one embodiment, the hydrogen atoms of at least one alkyl chain may be substituted at least partially with fluorine atoms.

According to the invention, these chains may be linked directly to the polymer skeleton or via an ester function or a perfluoro group.

For the purposes of the invention, the term "polymer" means a compound containing at least 2 repeating units, such as, for example, a compound containing at least 3 repeating units, which may be identical.

As used herein to describe the structuring polymers, the expression "hydrocarbon-based repeating unit" includes a repeating unit comprising from 2 to 80 carbon atoms, such as, for example, from 2 to 60 carbon atoms. The at least one hydrocarbon-based repeating unit may also comprise oxygen atoms. The hydrocarbon-based repeating unit may be chosen from saturated and unsaturated hydrocarbon-based repeating units which in turn may be chosen from linear hydrocarbon-based repeating units, branched hydrocarbon-based repeating units and cyclic hydrocarbon-based repeating units. The at least one hydrocarbon-based repeating unit may comprise, for example, at least one heteroatom that is part of the polymer skeleton, i.e., not pendant. The at least one heteroatom may be chosen, for example, from nitrogen, sulphur, and phosphorus. For example, the at least one heteroatom may be a nitrogen atom, such as a non-pendant nitrogen atom. In another embodiment, the at least one hydrocarbon-based repeating unit may comprise at least one heteroatom, with the proviso that the at least one heteroatom is not nitrogen. In another embodiment, the at least one heteroatom is combined with at least one atom chosen from oxygen and carbon to form a heteroatom group. In one embodiment, the heteroatom group comprises a carbonyl group.

The at least one repeating unit comprising at least one heteroatom may be chosen, for example, from amide groups, carbamate groups, and urea groups. In one embodiment, the at least one repeating unit comprises amide groups forming a polyamide skeleton. In another embodiment, the at least one repeating unit comprises carbamate groups and/or urea groups forming a polyurethane skeleton, a polyurea skeleton and/or a polyurethane- polyurea skeleton. The pendant chains, for example, can be linked directly to at least one of the heteroatoms of the polymer skeleton. In another embodiment, the at least one hydrocarbon-based repeating unit may comprise at least one heteroatom group, with the proviso that the at least one heteroatom group is not an amide group. In another embodiment, the polymer skeleton comprises at least one repeating unit chosen from silicone units and oxyalkylene units, and wherein the at least one repeating unit may be located between the hydrocarbon-based repeating units.

In one embodiment, the composition of the invention comprises at least one structuring polymer with nitrogen atoms, such as amide, urea, or carbamate units, such as amide units, and at least one polar oil.

In one embodiment, in the at least one structuring polymer, the percentage of the total number of fatty chains ranges from 40% to 98% relative to the total number of repeating units and fatty chains, such as, for example, from 50% to 95%. In a further embodiment wherein the polymer skeleton is a polyamide skeleton, in the at least one structuring polymer, the percentage of the total number of fatty chains ranges from 40% to 98% relative to the total number of all amide units and fatty chains, such as, for example, from 50% to 95%.

In a further embodiment, the nature and proportion of the at least one hydrocarbon-based repeating unit comprising at least one heteroatom depends on the nature of a liquid fatty phase of the composition and is, for example, similar to the nature of the liquid fatty phase. For example, and not to be limited as to theory, the at least one structuring polymer, e.g., a polyamide polymer, may have an affinity for the liquid fatty, for example, for a chemical portion of one of the oils forming the liquid fatty phase of the composition so that physical links with the oils, such as hydrogen bonds, are formed. The more polar the hydrocarbon-based repeating units containing a heteroatom, and in high proportion, which corresponds to the presence of several heteroatoms, the greater the affinity the at least one structuring polymer may have for polar oils. Conversely, the more non-polar, or even apolar, and lesser in proportion the hydrocarbon-based repeating units containing a heteroatom, the greater the affinity the at least one structuring polymer may have for apolar oils.

In another embodiment, the invention is drawn to a structured composition containing at least one liquid fatty phase structured with at least one structuring polymer, wherein said at least one structuring polymer is a polyamide polymer comprising a polymer skeleton comprising at least one amide repeating unit and optionally at least one pendant fatty chain and/or at least one terminal chain that are optionally functionalized and comprise from 8 to 120 carbon atoms, bonded to at least one of the amide repeating units via at least one linking group. The liquid fatty phase further contains at least one oil-soluble polymer chosen from alkyl celluloses and alkylated guar gums. The at least one liquid fatty phase, the at least one structuring polyamide, and the at least one oil-soluble polymer chosen from alkyl celluloses and alkylated guar gums, together form a physiologically acceptable medium. When the at least one structuring polymer has amide repeating units, the pendant fatty chains may be linked to at least one of the nitrogen atoms in the amide repeating units.

In one embodiment, the at least one structuring polymer, e.g., a polyamide polymer, may have a weight-average molecular mass up to and including 1,000,000, such as, for example, up to and including 500,000, and as a further example, up to and including 100,000, and as a further example, up to and including 50,000. For example, the weight-average molecular mass may range from 1000 to 30,000, such as from 2000 to 20,000, further such as from 2000 to 10,000.

The at least one structuring polymer, for example a polyamide polymer, is not soluble in water or in an aqueous phase. In one embodiment of the invention, the at least one structuring polymer has no ionic groups or functions, i.e., is non-ionic. In another embodiment of the invention, the at least one structuring polymer can have one ionizable function.

As discussed, the at least one structuring polymer may, for example, be chosen from polyamide polymers. A polyamide polymer may comprise, for example, a polymer skeleton which comprises at least one amide repeating unit, i.e., a polyamide skeleton. In one embodiment, the polyamide skeleton may further comprise at least one terminal fatty chain and/or at least one pendant fatty chain, wherein said at least one terminal fatty chain and/or at least one pendant fatty chain are chosen from alkyl chains, for example, alkyl chains comprising at least four carbon atoms, and alkenyl chains, for example, alkenyl chains comprising at least four carbon atoms, bonded to the at least one polyamide skeleton via at least one linking group, and/or at least one pendant fatty chain chosen from alkyl chains, for example, alkyl chains comprising at least four carbon atoms, and alkenyl chains, for example, alkenyl chains comprising at least four carbon atoms, bonded to the at least one polyamide skeleton via at least one linking group. In one embodiment, the polyamide skeleton may comprise at least one terminal fatty chain chosen from fatty chains comprising from 8 to 120 carbon atoms, such as, for example, from 12 to 68 carbon atoms, bonded to the at least one polyamide skeleton via at least one linking group and/or at least one pendant fatty chain chosen from fatty chains comprising from 8 to 120 carbon atoms, such as, for example, from 12 to 68 carbon atoms, bonded to the at least one polyamide skeleton via at least one linking group, such as bonded to any carbon or nitrogen of the polyamide skeleton via said at least one linking group. In one embodiment, the at least one linking group is chosen from single bonds and urea, urethane, thiourea, thiourethane, thioether, thioester, ester, ether and amine groups. For example, the at least one linking group may be chosen from ureas, esters and amines, and in another example, from esters and amines. The bond is, for example, an ester bond. In one embodiment, these polymers comprise a fatty chain at each end of the polymer skeleton, such as the polyamide skeleton.

In one embodiment, due to the presence of at least one chain, the at least one structuring polymer, e.g., a polyamide polymer, may be readily soluble in oils {i.e., water-immiscible liquid compounds) and thus may give a macroscopically homogeneous composition even with a high content (at least 25%) of the polyamide polymers, unlike certain polymers of the prior art that do not contain such alkyl or alkenyl chains at the end of the polyamide skeleton. As defined herein, a composition is soluble if it has a solubility of greater than 0.01 g per 100 ml of solution at 25°C.

In a further embodiment, the polyamide polymers can be chosen from polymers resulting from at least one polycondensation reaction between at least one acid chosen from at least one dicarboxylic acid comprising at least 32 carbon atoms, such as from 32 to 44 carbon atoms, and at least one amine chosen from diamines comprising at least 2 carbon atoms, such as from 2 to 36 carbon atoms, and triamines comprising at least 2 carbon atoms, such as from 2 to 36 carbon atoms. The at least one dicarboxylic acid can, for example, be chosen from dimers of at least one fatty acid comprising at least 16 carbon atoms, such as oleic acid, linoleic acid, and linolenic acid. The at least one amine can, for example, be chosen from diamines, such as ethylenediamine, hexylenediamine, hexamethylenediamine, phenylenediamine, and triamines. In one embodiment, the at least one amine can be ethylenetriamine.

The polyamide polymers may also be chosen from polymers comprising at least one terminal carboxylic acid group. The at least one terminal carboxylic acid group can, for example, be esterified with at least one alcohol chosen from monoalcohols comprising at least 4 carbon atoms. For example, the at least one alcohol can be chosen from monoalcohols comprising from 10 to 36 carbon atoms. In a further embodiment, the monoalcohols can comprise from 12 to 24 carbon atoms, such as from 16 to 24 carbon atoms, and, for example, 18 carbon atoms.

In one embodiment, the at least one polyamide polymer may be chosen from those described in U.S. Patent No. 5,783,657, which are polyamide polymers of formula (I):

in which:

- n is an integer which represents the number of amide units such that the number of ester groups present in said at least one polyamide polymer ranges from 10% to 50% of the total number of all the ester groups and all the amide groups comprised in the at least one polyamide polymer;

- R¹, which are identical or different, are each chosen from alkyl groups comprising at least 4 carbon atoms and alkenyl groups comprising at least 4 carbon atoms. In one embodiment, the alkyl group comprises from 4 to 24 carbon atoms and the alkenyl group comprises from 4 to 24 carbon atoms; - R², which are identical or different, are each chosen from C₄ to C ₂ hydrocarbon-based groups, with the proviso that at least 50% of all R² are chosen from C₃o to C₄₂ hydrocarbon-based groups;

- R³, which are identical or different, are each chosen from organic groups comprising atoms chosen from carbon atoms, hydrogen atoms, oxygen atoms and nitrogen atoms, with the proviso that R³ comprises at least 2 carbon atoms; and

- R⁴, which are identical or different, are each chosen from hydrogen atoms, Ci to C₁₀ alkyl groups and a direct bond to at least one group chosen from R³ and another R⁴ such that when said at least one group is chosen from another R⁴, the nitrogen atom to which both R³ and R⁴ are bonded forms part of a heterocyclic structure defined in part by R⁴-N-R³, with the proviso that at least 50% of all R⁴ are chosen from hydrogen atoms.

In the polymers of formula (I), the terminal fatty chains that are optionally functionalized for the purposes of the invention are terminal chains linked to the last heteroatom, in this case nitrogen, of the polyamide skeleton.

In one embodiment, the ester groups of formula (I), which form part of the terminal and/or pendant fatty chains for the purposes of the invention, are present in an amount ranging from 15% to 40% of the total number of ester and amide groups {i.e., heteroatom groups), such as from 20% to 35%.

In formula (I), in one embodiment, n may be an integer ranging from 1 to 10, for example an integer ranging from 1 to 5, and as a further example, an integer ranging from 3 to 5. In one embodiment of the present invention, R¹, which are identical or different, can, for example, each be chosen from Cι₂ to C₂₂ alkyl groups, such as from C₁₆ to C₂₂ alkyl groups.

In one embodiment of the present invention, R², which are identical or different, can, for example, each be chosen from Cιo to C ₂ hydrocarbon- based groups, e.g., alkylene groups. At least 50% of all R², for example at least 75% of all R², which are identical or different, can, for example, each be chosen from groups comprising from 30 to 42 carbon atoms. In these embodiments, the remaining R², which are identical or different, can, for example, each be chosen from C to C~ιβ groups, such as from C₄ to Cι₂ groups.

In one embodiment of the invention, R³, which can be identical or different, can, for example, each be chosen from C₂ to C₃₆ hydrocarbon- based groups and polyoxyalkylene groups. In another embodiment, R³, which can be identical or different, can each, for example, be chosen from C₂ to Cι₂ hydrocarbon-based groups.

In another embodiment, R⁴, which can be identical or different, can each be chosen from hydrogen atoms.

As used herein to describe the structuring polymers, hydrocarbon- based groups may be chosen from linear, cyclic, and branched, saturated and unsaturated groups. The hydrocarbon-based groups can be chosen from aliphatic and aromatic groups. In one example, the hydrocarbon-based groups are chosen from aliphatic groups. The alkyl and alkylene groups may be chosen from linear, cyclic, and branched, saturated and unsaturated groups.

In general, the pendant and terminal fatty chains of the at least one structuring polymer, e.g., a polyamide polymer, may be chosen from linear, cyclic and branched, saturated and unsaturated groups. The pendant and terminal fatty chains can be chosen from aliphatic and aromatic groups. In one example, the pendant and terminal fatty chains are chosen from aliphatic groups.

According to the invention, the structuring of the liquid fatty phase is obtained with the aid of at least one structuring polymer, such as the at least one polyamide polymers of formula (I). The at least one polyamide polymer of formula (I) may, for example, be in the form of a mixture of polymers, and this mixture may also comprise a compound of formula (I) wherein n is equal to zero, i.e., a diester.

Non-limiting examples of an at least one polyamide polymer which may be used in the composition according to the present invention include the commercial products made or sold by Arizona Chemical under the names Uniclear 80 and Uniclear 100. These are sold, respectively, in the form of an 80% (in terms of active material) gel in a mineral oil and a 100% (in terms of active material) gel. These polymers have a softening point ranging from 88°C to 94 °C, and may be mixtures of copolymers derived from monomers of (i) C₃₆ diacids and (ii) ethylenediamine, and have a weight-average molecular mass of about 6000. Terminal ester groups result from esterification of the remaining acid end groups with at least one alcohol chosen from cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol. A mixture of cetyl and stearyl alcohols is sometimes called cetylstearyl alcohol.

Other non-limiting examples of an at least one polyamide polymer which may be used in the compositions according to the present invention include polyamide polymers or polyamide resins resulting from the condensation of at least one aliphatic dicarboxylic acid and at least one diamine, the carbonyl and amine groups being condensed via an amide bond. In one embodiment, these polymers can contain more than two carbonyl groups and more than two amine groups. Examples of these polyamide polymers are those made or sold under the brand name Versamid by the companies General Mills Inc. and Henkel Corp. (Versamid 930, 744, or 1655) or by the company Olin Mathieson Chemical Corp. under the brand name Onamid, for example, Onamid S or C. These resins have a weight-average molecular mass ranging from 6000 to 9000. For further information regarding these polyamides, reference may be made to U.S. Patent Nos. 3,645,705 and 3,148,125. In one embodiment, Versamid 930 or 744 may be used.

Other examples of polyamides useful in the compositions according to the invention include those made or sold by the company Arizona Chemical under the references Uni-Rez (2658, 2931 , 2970, 2621 , 2613, 2624, 2665, 1554, 2623 and 2662) and the product made or sold under the reference Macromelt 6212 by the company Henkel. For further information regarding these polyamides, reference may be made to U.S. Patent No. 5,500,209. Such polyamides display high melt viscosity characteristics. MACROMELT 6212, for example, has a high melt viscosity at 190°C of 30-40 poise (as measured by a Brookfield Viscometer, Model RVF #3 spindle, 20 RPM).

In one embodiment, the at least one structuring polymer in the composition according to the invention corresponds to the polyamide polymers of formula (I). Due to fatty chain(s), these polymers may be readily soluble in oils and thus lead to compositions that are macroscopically homogeneous even with a high content (at least 25%) of at least one structuring polymer, unlike polymers not containing a fatty chain.

In a further embodiment, the at least one polyamide polymer may be chosen from polyamide resins from vegetable sources. Polyamide resins from vegetable sources may be chosen from, for example, the polyamide resins disclosed in U.S. Patent Nos. 5,783,657 and 5,998,570.

The at least one structuring polymer of the invention may furthermore be non-waxy polymers.

In one embodiment, when the at least one structuring polymer of the present invention comprises a urea urethane having the following formula (II):

R-0-CO-NH-R'-NH-CO-NH-R"-NH-CO-NH-R'-NH-CO-OR (II)

then R represents C_nH_2n+ι, or C_mH_2m+ι (OC_pH_2p)_r -, wherein n represents an integer having a value greater than 22, for example from 23 to 120, and further, for example from 23 to 68, wherein m represents an integer having a value of greater than 18, for example from 19 to 120, and further, for example, from 23 to 68, p represents an integer having a value of from 2 to 4, and r represents an integer having a value of from 1 to 10, R' represents:

or — (CH₂)₆- and R" represents:

The at least one structuring polymer, e.g., a polyamide polymer, in the compositions of the invention may have a softening point greater than 50°C, such as from 65°C to 190°C, such as from 65°C to less than 150°C, and further such as from 70°C to less than 130°C, and even further such as from 80°C to 105°C. This softening point may be lower than that of structuring polymers used in the art which may facilitate the use of the at least one structuring polymer of the present invention and may limit the degradation of the liquid fatty phase. The softening point can be measured by the well- known art-recognized method of Differential Scanning Calorimetry ("DSC"), with a temperature rise ranging from 5°C to 10°C per minute. The at least one structuring polymer, e.g., a polyamide polymer, may be present in the composition in an amount ranging, for example, from 0.5% to 80% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, such as, for example, from 2% to 60%, and further, for example, from 5 to 40%. In a further embodiment, the at least one structuring polymer may be present in the composition in an amount ranging, for example, from 5% to 25% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

In one embodiment of the invention, the present invention is drawn to a structured composition comprising at least one liquid fatty phase structured with at least one structuring polymer, e.g., a polyamide polymer, comprising a polymer skeleton comprising at least one hydrocarbon-based repeating unit comprising at least one heteroatom, wherein the at least one structuring polymer further comprises at least one terminal fatty chain, optionally functionalized, chosen from alkyl and alkenyl chains, such as alkyl and alkenyl chains having at least four carbon atoms, and further such as alkyl and alkenyl chains comprising from 8 to 120 carbon atoms, bonded to the polymer skeleton via at least one linking group chosen from amines, ureas, and esters, wherein when said at least one linking group is chosen from esters, said at least one terminal fatty chain is chosen from branched alkyl groups. The at least one structuring polymer may also comprise at least one pendant fatty chain, optionally functionalized, chosen from alkyl and alkenyl chains, such as alkyl and alkenyl chains having at least four carbon atoms, and further such as alkyl and alkenyl chains comprising from 8 to 120 carbon atoms, bonded to any carbon or heteroatom of the polymer skeleton via at least one linking group chosen from amines, ureas, and esters, wherein when said at least one linking group is chosen from esters, said at least one pendant fatty chain is chosen from branched alkyl groups. The at least one structuring polymer may comprise both at least one pendant fatty chain and at least one terminal fatty chain as defined above in this paragraph.

An embodiment of the invention also relates to a composition comprising at least one liquid fatty phase which comprises: (i) at least one structuring polymer comprising: a polymer skeleton which comprises at least one hydrocarbon- based repeating unit comprising at least one heteroatom; wherein said polymer skeleton optionally comprises at least one amide repeating unit and said at least one structuring polymer is a polyamide; and

(ii) at least one oil-soluble polymer chosen from alkyl celluloses and alkylated guar gums.

Another embodiment of the invention relates to an anhydrous composition comprising at least one liquid fatty phase which comprises:

(i) at least one structuring polymer comprising: a polymer skeleton which comprises at least one hydrocarbon- based repeating unit comprising at least one heteroatom; and

Another embodiment of the invention is a composition comprising at least one liquid fatty phase which comprises:

(i) at least one structuring polymer comprising a polymer skeleton which comprises at least one hydrocarbon- based repeating unit comprising at least one heteroatom, with the proviso that said at least one heteroatom is not nitrogen; and

Another embodiment of the invention is a foundation, mascara, eye liner, concealer, lipstick, blush for cheeks or eyelids, body makeup, sun screen, colorant for skin or hair, skin care formula, shampoo, after shampoo treatment, or makeup removing product comprising: at least one liquid fatty phase in said foundation, mascara, eye liner, concealer, lipstick, blush for cheeks or eyelids, body makeup, sun screen, colorant for skin or hair, skin care formula, shampoo, after shampoo treatment, or makeup removing product which comprises: (i) at least one structuring polymer comprising: a polymer skeleton which comprises at least one hydrocarbon-based repeating unit comprising at least one heteroatom; and

Another embodiment of the invention is an anhydrous deodorant comprising: at least one liquid fatty phase in said deodorant which comprises: (i) at least one structuring polymer comprising: a polymer skeleton which comprises at least one hydrocarbon-based repeating unit comprising at least one heteroatom; and

Another embodiment of the invention is a lip composition in stick form comprising at least one continuous liquid fatty phase, at least one oil-soluble polymer chosen from alkyl celluloses and alkylated guar gums, and at least one non-waxy structuring polymer having a weight-average molecular mass of less than 100,000 in the lip composition, the at least one continuous liquid fatty phase, the at least one oil-soluble polymer, and the at least one non- waxy structuring polymer being present in the lip composition.

Another embodiment is a composition comprising at least one liquid fatty phase which comprises:

(ii) at least one oil-soluble polymer chosen from alkyl celluloses and alkylated guar gums, wherein the at least one structuring polymer does not include those of formula (II):

R-O-CO-NH-R'-NH-CO-NH-R"-NH-CO-NH-R'-NH-CO-OR (II) wherein R represents C_nH_2n+ι- or C_mH₂m+i (C_pH_2pO)_r -; n represents an integer having a value of from 4 to 22; m represents an integer having a value of from 1 to 18; p represents an integer having a value of from 2 to 4; and r represents an integer having a value of from 1 to 10; R' represents:

or — (CH₂)₆—

and R" represents:

Another embodiment of the invention is a method for making a cosmetic composition in the form of a physiologically acceptable composition comprising including in the composition at least one liquid fatty phase which comprises:

Another embodiment of the invention is a method for providing at least one of resistance to shear and stability to a cosmetic composition, comprising including in the cosmetic composition at least one liquid fatty phase which comprises:

(ii) at least one oil-soluble polymer chosen from alkyl celluloses and alkylated guar gums, and further wherein the at least one structuring polymer and the at least one oil-soluble polymer chosen from alkyl celluloses and alkylated guar gums are present in a combined amount effective to provide at least one property chosen from resistance to shear and stability.

Another embodiment of the invention is a make up, care, or treatment composition for the skin or lips comprising a structured composition comprising at least one liquid fatty phase in the composition structured with at least one structuring polymer comprising a polymer skeleton which comprises at least one hydrocarbon-based repeating unit comprising at least one heteroatom, at least one oil-soluble polymer chosen from alkyl celluloses and alkylated guar gums, and at least one coloring agent.

Another embodiment of the invention is drawn to at least one keratinous material care, treatment, or make-up composition comprising a structured composition containing at least one liquid fatty phase structured with at least one structuring polymer, e.g., a polyamide polymer, comprising a polymer skeleton comprising at least one hydrocarbon-based repeating unit comprising at least one heteroatom and at least one oil-soluble polymer chosen from alkyl celluloses and alkylated guar gums. Additionally, an embodiment of the invention relates to at least one keratinous material care or make-up composition comprising a structured composition containing at least one liquid fatty phase structured with at least one structuring polymer, e.g., a polyamide polymer, comprising a polymer skeleton comprising at least one hydrocarbon-based repeating unit comprising at least one heteroatom, at least one coloring agent, and at least one oil-soluble polymer chosen from alkyl celluloses and alkylated guar gums.

Another embodiment of the invention relates to a method of making up or caring for at least one keratinous material comprising applying to the at least one keratinous material a structured composition containing at least one liquid fatty phase structured with at least one structuring polymer, e.g., a polyamide polymer, comprising a polymer skeleton comprising at least one hydrocarbon-based repeating unit comprising at least one heteroatom and at least one oil-soluble polymer chosen from alkyl celluloses and alkylated guar gums. Liquid fatty phase

The at least one liquid fatty phase, in one embodiment, may comprise at least one oil. In one embodiment, the at least one oil may have an affinity for the structuring polymer. The at least one oil may, for example, be chosen from polar oils and apolar oils including hydrocarbon-based liquid oils and oily liquids at room temperature. In one embodiment, the composition of the invention comprises at least one structuring polymer and at least one polar oil. The polar oils of the invention may, for example, be added to the apolar oils, the apolar oils acting, for example, as co-solvent for the polar oils.

According to the invention, the structuring of the at least one liquid fatty phase may be obtained with the aid of at least one structuring polymer, such as the polyamide polymer of formula (I). In general, the polymers of formula (I) may be in the form of mixtures of polymers, these mixtures also possibly containing a synthetic product corresponding to a compound of formula (I) in which n is 0, i.e., a diester. In one embodiment, the liquid fatty phase of the composition may contain more than 30%, for example, more than 40%, of liquid oil(s) having a chemical nature close to the chemical nature of the skeleton (hydrocarbon or silicone based) of the structuring polymer, and for example from 50% to 99.4%. In one embodiment, the liquid fatty phase structured with a polyamide-type, polyurea-type, polyurethane-type, or polyurea-urethane-type skeleton contains a high quantity, i.e., greater than 30%, for example greater than 40%, relative to the total weight of the liquid fatty phase, or from 50% to 99.4%, of at least one apolar, such as hydrocarbon-based, oil. For the purposes of the invention, the expression "hydrocarbon-based oil" means an oil comprising carbon and hydrogen atoms, optionally with at least one group chosen from hydroxyl, ester, carboxyl, and ether groups.

For a liquid fatty phase structured with a polymer containing a partially silicone-based skeleton, this fatty phase may contain more than 30%, for example, more than 40%, relative to the total weight of the liquid fatty phase and, for example, from 50% to 99.4%, of at least one silicone-based liquid oil, relative to the total weight of the liquid fatty phase.

For a liquid fatty phase structured with at least one polymer of the hydrocarbon-based type, this fatty phase may contain more than 30%, for example more than 40% by weight, and, as a further example, from 50% to 99.4% by weight, of at least one liquid apolar, such as hydrocarbon-based, oil, relative to the total weight of the liquid fatty phase.

For example, the at least one polar oil useful in the invention may be chosen from:

- hydrocarbon-based plant oils with a high content of triglycerides comprising fatty acid esters of glycerol in which the fatty acids may have varied chain lengths from C to C₂₄, these chains possibly being chosen from cyclic, linear and branched, saturated and unsaturated chains; these oils can be chosen from, for example, wheat germ oil, corn oil, sunflower oil, karite butter, castor oil, sweet almond oil, macadamia oil, apricot oil, soybean oil, cotton oil, alfalfa oil, poppy oil, pumpkin oil, sesame oil, marrow oil, rapeseed oil, avocado oil, hazelnut oil, grape seed oil, blackcurrant seed oil, evening primrose oil, millet oil, barley oil, quinoa oil, olive oil, rye oil, safflower oil, candlenut oil, passion flower oil and musk rose oil; or alternatively caprylic/capric acid triglycerides such as those made or sold by Stearineries Dubois or those made or sold under the names Miglyol 810, 812 and 818 by Dynamit Nobel;

- synthetic oils or esters of formula RsCOOR₆ in which R₅ is chosen from cyclic, linear and branched fatty acid residues containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms and Re is chosen from, for example, a hydrocarbon-based chain containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms, such as, for example, from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, on condition that R₅ + R > 10, such as, for example, purcellin oil (cetostearyl octanoate), isononyl isononanoate, Cι₂-Ci₅ alkyl benzoates, isopropyl myristate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, isostearyl isostearate and alkyl or polyalkyl octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates; hydroxylated esters such as isostearyl lactate and diisostearyl malate; and pentaerythritol esters;

- synthetic ethers containing from 10 to 40 carbon atoms;

- Cs to C₂₆ fatty alcohols such as oleyl alcohol; and

- Cs to C₂₆ fatty acids such as oleic acid, linolenic acid or linoleic acid.

The at least one apolar oil according to the invention may be chosen from, for example, silicone oils chosen from volatile and non-volatile, branched, linear and cyclic polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMSs) that are liquid at room temperature; polydimethylsiloxanes comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups which are pendant and/or at the end of the silicone chain, the groups each containing from 2 to 24 carbon atoms; phenylsilicones such as phenyl trimethicones, phenyl dimethicones, phenyl trimethylsiloxy diphenylsiloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, diphenyl methyldiphenyl trisiloxanes and 2- phenylethyl trimethylsiloxysilicates; hydrocarbons chosen from cyclic, linear and branched, volatile and non-volatile hydrocarbons of synthetic and mineral origin, such as volatile liquid paraffins (such as isoparaffins and isododecane) or non-volatile liquid paraffins and derivatives thereof, liquid petrolatum, liquid lanolin, polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as hydrogenated polybutene, for example Parleam^® from Nippon Oils and Fats, and squalane; and mixtures thereof. The structured oils, for example those structured with polyamides such as those of formula (I), or with polyurethanes, polyureas, or polyurea-urethanes, in accordance with the invention, may be, in one embodiment, apolar oils, such as an oil or a mixture of hydrocarbon oils chosen from those of mineral and synthetic origin, chosen from hydrocarbons such as alkanes such as Parleam^® oil, isoparaffins including isododecane, and squalane, and mixtures thereof. These oils may, in one embodiment, be combined with at least one phenylsilicone oil.

The liquid fatty phase, in one embodiment, contains at least one nonvolatile oil chosen from, for example, hydrocarbon-based oils of mineral, plant and synthetic origin, synthetic esters or ethers, silicone oils, and mixtures thereof.

In another embodiment, the total liquid fatty phase can be, for example, present in an amount ranging from 1% to 99.4% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, for example from 5% to 99.4%, from 5% to 95.5%, from 10% to 80%, or from 20% to 75%.

For the purposes of the invention, the expression "volatile solvent or oil" means any non-aqueous medium capable of evaporating on contact with the skin or the lips in less than one hour at room temperature and atmospheric pressure. The volatile solvent(s) of the invention is(are) organic solvents, such as volatile cosmetic oils that are liquid at room temperature, having a non-zero vapor pressure at room temperature and atmospheric pressure, ranging, for example, from 10^"2 to 300 mmHg (1.33 Pa to 10,000 Pa), for example greater than 0.03 mmHg (4 Pa), and, as a further example, greater than 0.3 mmHg (40 Pa). The expression "non-volatile oil" means an oil which remains on the skin or the lips at room temperature and atmospheric pressure for at least several hours, such as those having a vapor pressure of less than 10^"2 mmHg (1.33 Pa).

According to the invention, these volatile solvents or oils may facilitate the staying power or long wearing properties of the composition on the skin, the lips or superficial body growths, such as nails and keratinous fibers. The solvents can be chosen from hydrocarbon-based solvents, silicone solvents optionally comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups that are pendant or at the end of a silicone chain, and a mixture of these solvents.

The volatile oil(s), in one embodiment, may be present in an amount ranging up to 95.5% relative to the total weight of the composition, such as from 2% to 75%, and, as a further example, from 10% to 45%. This amount will be adapted by a person skilled in the art according to the desired staying power or long wearing properties.

The at least one liquid fatty phase of the compositions of the invention may further comprise a dispersion of lipid vesicles. The compositions of the invention may also, for example, be in the form of a fluid anhydrous gel, a rigid anhydrous gel, a fluid simple emulsion, a fluid multiple emulsion, a rigid simple emulsion or a rigid multiple emulsion. The simple emulsion or multiple emulsion may comprise a continuous phase chosen from an aqueous phase optionally containing dispersed lipid vesicles, or a fatty phase optionally containing dispersed lipid vesicles. In one embodiment, the composition has a continuous oily phase or fatty phase and is an anhydrous composition, for example, in stick or dish form. An anhydrous composition is one that has less than 10% water by weight, such as, for example, less than 5% by weight. Oil-Soluble Polymer

The compositions of the invention further comprise at least one oil- soluble polymer chosen from alkylated guar gums and alkyl celluloses. Alkylated guar gums include, for example, ethyl guars and Cι-₅ alkyl galactomannans, such as N-HANCE AG-50 and N-HANCE AG-200 from Aqualon. An alkyl cellulose, may be chosen from, for example, ethylcellulose (such as ETHOCEL, from Dow Chemical). In one embodiment, the at least one oil-soluble polymer may be present in the composition in an amount ranging from 0.05% to 10.0% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, such as, for example, from 0.1% to 5%, and as a further example, from 0.1% to 3%. These ingredients can further stabilize, for example, a clear sunscreen complex composition against syneresis. In one embodiment, a composition according to the invention may be stabilized by the inclusion of at least one oil-soluble polymer chosen from alkyl celluloses. In a further embodiment, at least one alkyl galactomannan, such as N-HANCE AG-50, may be used to stabilize a stick composition against stick syneresis, for example, at elevated temperatures such as, for example, 45°C.

The amounts of the at least one structuring polymer and of the at least one oil-soluble polymer chosen from alkyl celluloses and alkylated guar gums, however, may be chosen according to the desired hardness and desired stability of the composition, and according to the specific application envisaged. The respective amounts of the at least one structuring polymer and of the at least one oil-soluble polymer chosen from alkyl celluloses and alkylated guar gums can be such that a disintegrable solid which does not flow under its own weight is obtained.

Depending on the intended application, such as a stick, hardness of the composition may also be considered. The hardness of a composition may, for example, be expressed in gram force (gf). The composition of the present invention may, for example, have a hardness ranging from 20 gf to 2000 gf, such as from 20 gf to 900 gf, and further such as from 20 gf to 600 gf.

This hardness can be measured in one of two ways. A first test for hardness is according to a method of penetrating a probe into said composition and in particular using a texture analyzer (for example TA-XT2i from Rheo) equipped with an ebonite cylinder of height 25 mm and diameter 8 mm. The hardness measurement is carried out at 20 °C at the center of 5 samples of the composition. The cylinder is introduced into each sample of composition at a pre-speed of 2 mm/s and then at a speed of 0.5 mm/s and finally at a post-speed of 2 mm/s, the total displacement being 1 mm. The recorded hardness value is that of the maximum peak observed. The measurement error is ± 50 gf. A second test for hardness is the "cheese wire" method, which involves cutting an 8.1 mm or 12.7 mm stick of composition and measuring its hardness at 20 °C using a DFGHS 2 tensile testing machine from Indelco- Chatillon Co. at a speed of 100 mm/minute. The hardness value from this method is expressed in gram force as the shear force required to cut a stick under the above conditions. According to this method, the hardness of compositions according to the present invention which may be in stick form may, for example, range from 30 gf to 300 gf, such as from 30 gf to 250 gf, and further such as from 30 gf to 200 gf.

The hardness of the compositions of the present invention may be such that the compositions are self-supporting and can easily disintegrate to form a satisfactory deposit on at least one keratinous material. In addition, this hardness may impart good impact strength to the inventive compositions which may be molded or cast, for example, in stick or dish form.

The skilled artisan may choose to evaluate a composition using at least one of the tests for hardness outlined above based on the application envisaged and the hardness desired. If one obtains an acceptable hardness value, in view of the intended application, from at least one of these hardness tests, the composition falls within the scope of the invention.

According to the present invention, the compositions in stick form may also possess the properties of deformable, flexible elastic solids and may also have noteworthy elastic softness upon application to at least one keratinous material. The compositions in stick form of the prior art do not have this elasticity and flexibility. Fatty Alcohol

The compositions of the invention may further comprise at least one fatty alcohol. The at least one fatty alcohol may be chosen from, for example, Cs to C₂₆, such as from, C₁₂ to C₂₂ fatty alcohols. In one embodiment, the at least one fatty alcohol is chosen from myristyl, cetyl, stearyl, and behenyl alcohol. The fatty alcohols may, for example, be present in the composition in an amount ranging from 0.1 % to 15.0% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, such as, for example, from 0.5% to 10%, and as a further example, from 0.5% to 8.0%. In a further embodiment, the skilled artisan may be able to cure a stability defect by the addition of at least one fatty alcohol to the composition. For example, the addition of at least one fatty alcohol may improve stick structure, minimize syneresis, and generally improve application properties without interfering with stick transparency, as compared to a composition that does not contain the at least one fatty alcohol. Oil-Soluble Ester

The compositions of the invention may also comprise at least one oil- soluble ester comprising at least one free hydroxy group. Any oil-soluble ester comprising at least one free hydroxy group may be within the practice of the invention.

The at least one oil-soluble ester comprising at least one free hydroxy group may be chosen from, for example, castor oil, propylene glycol ricinoleate, isopropyl hydroxystearate, triisocetyl citrate, diisostearyl malate, octyl hydroxystearate, triisoarachidyl citrate, cetyl lactate, dioctyl malate, octyldodecyl hydroxystearate, di-isostearyl malate, and di-isostearyl lactate.

In one embodiment, the at least one oil-soluble ester comprising at least one free hydroxy group, such as, for example, diisostearyl malate and triisocetyl citrate, may add stability. For example, the use of these esters may minimize oil droplet formulation at room temperature and elevated temperature storage. The introduction of at least one hydroxy bearing ester, in addition, may dramatically improve the overall softening point of the finished clear anhydrous stick.

In a further embodiment, certain at least one oil-soluble esters comprising at least one free hydroxy group may provide the firmest and clearest composition and stick, and may also improve the gelling efficiency in relation to a composition comprising structuring polymers alone. For example, a composition comprising from 16 to 20% structuring polymer with the at least one oil-soluble ester comprising at least one free hydroxy group chosen from isopropyl hydroxystearate has exhibited excellent clarity and structure.

Depending on the at least one structuring polymer and its amount and the at least one oil-soluble ester comprising at least one free hydroxy group and its amount, some compositions may develop syneresis after aging for one day at 25°C, which may be disadvantageous in certain embodiments. The skilled artisan may be able to cure this defect by varying the at least one structuring polymer and/or the at least one oil-soluble ester comprising at least one free hydroxy group. The skilled artisan may also be able to cure this defect by varying the amount of at least one of these ingredients.

In one embodiment, the at least one oil-soluble ester comprising at least one free hydroxy group may be present in the composition in an amount ranging from 10% to 84% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, such as, for example, from 20% to 70%. Oil-Soluble Cationic Surfactant

As described above, the compositions of the invention further comprise at least one oil-soluble cationic surfactant. In one embodiment, the at least one oil-soluble cationic surfactant may be chosen from lauryl methyl gluceth- 10-hydroxypropyl dimmonium chloride, which may impart cosmetic elegance to a composition. The at least one oil-soluble cationic surfactant may also, for example, be chosen from quaternary ammonium compounds including salts of quaternary ammonium compounds and fatty amines including salts of fatty amines. As used herein cosmetic elegance refers to substantially low tackiness, ease of application, or elegant feel.

In one embodiment, the at least one oil-soluble cationic surfactant is chosen from water-insoluble surfactants of the formula

wherein Ri, R₂, R₃, and R are independently chosen from aliphatic groups of from 1 to 22 carbon atoms and Cι-C₃ alkyl, hydroxyalkyl, polyalkoxy, aromatic, aryl, and alkylaryl groups having from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, and X is chosen from halogen, acetate, phosphate, nitrate, and alkylsulfate radicals. The aliphatic groups may, for example, contain in addition to carbon and hydrogen atoms, ether linkages, and other groups such as amino groups.

The at least one oil-soluble cationic surfactant may also, for example, be chosen from quaternary ammonium salts of the formula

wherein Ri is an aliphatic group having from 16 to 22 carbon atoms; R₂, R₃, R₄, R5, and Re are independently chosen from hydrogen and alkyl having from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, and X is chosen from halogen, acetate, phosphate, nitrate, and alkyl sulfate radicals. The at least one oil-soluble cationic surfactant may, for example, be tallow propane diammonium dichloride.

Non-limiting examples of the at least one oil-soluble cationic surfactant include the quaternary ammonium salts: dialkyldimethyl-ammonium chlorides, wherein the alkyl groups have from 12 to 22 carbon atoms and are derived from long-chain fatty acids, such as hydrogenated tallow fatty acid (tallow fatty acids yield quaternary compounds wherein R-i and R₂ have predominately from 16 to 18 carbon atoms); ditallowdimethyl ammonium chloride; ditallowdimethyl ammonium methyl sulfate; dihexadecyl dimethyl ammonium chloride; di(hydrogenated tallow) dimethyl ammonium chloride; dioctadecyl dimethyl ammonium chloride; dieicosyl dimethyl ammonium chloride; didocosyl dimethyl ammonium chloride; di(hydrogenated tallow) dimethyl ammonium acetate; dihexadecyl dimethyl ammonium chloride, dihexadecyl dimethyl ammonium acetate; ditallow dipropyl ammonium phosphate; ditallow dimethyl ammonium nitrate; di(coconutalkyl) dimethyl ammonium chloride; diceltyl dimethyl ammonium chloride; stearyl dimethyl benzyl ammonium chloride; behenyl trimethyl ammonium chloride; and di- (hydrogenated tallow) dimethyl ammonium chloride.

Non-limiting examples of the at least one oil-soluble cationic surfactant also include salts of primary, secondary, and tertiary fatty amines. In one embodiment, salts of primary, secondary, and tertiary fatty amines may comprise alkyl groups having from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, and may be substituted and unsubstituted. Amines may be chosen from, for example, stearamido propyl dimethyl amine, diethyl amino ethyl stearamide, dimethyl stearamine, dimethyl soyamine, soyamine, tridecyl amine, ethyl stearylamine, ethoxylated (2 moles E.O.) stearylamine, dihydroxyethyl stearylamine, and arachidylbehenylamine. Amine salts may be chosen from, for example, halogens, acetates, phosphates, nitrates, citrates, lactates, and alkyl sulfates. In one embodiment, the amine salts are chosen from stearylamine hydrochloride, soyamine chloride, stearylamine formate, N-tallowpropane diaminedichloride, and stearamidopropyl dimethylamine citrate. The at least one oil-soluble cationic surfactant may also be chosen from cationic amine surfactants disclosed in U.S. Patent No. 4,275,055.

In another embodiment, the at least one oil-soluble cationic surfactant may be chosen from quaternary imidazolinium compounds including quaternary imidazolinium salts. Quaternary imidazolinium compounds include, for example, imidazolinium compounds containing C-i₂ - C₂₂ alkyl groups such as 1 -methyl-1 -[(stearoylamide)ethyl]-2-heptadecyl-4, 5- dihydroimidazolinium chloride, 1 -methyl-1 -[(palmitoyIamide)ethyl]-2-octadecyl- 4,5-dihydroimidazolinium chloride and 1 -methyl-1 -[(tallowamide)-ethyl]-2- tallow-imidazolinium methyl sulfate. The at least one oil-soluble cationic surfactant may also be chosen from conditioning agents that are disclosed in U.S. Patent No. 4,387,090.

The at least one oil-soluble cationic surfactant may be present in the composition, for example, in an amount ranging from 0.1% to 10% by weight relative to the weight of the composition, such as, for example, from 0.1 % to 5.0%, and as a further example from 0.5% to 2.0%. Wax

According to another embodiment, the compositions of the invention may further comprise at least one wax. At least one wax, for example, may be used to form a non-transparent composition. As used herein, a "wax" may be any lipophilic fatty compound which is soluble in the liquid fatty phase, unlike most fillers or pigments. The at least one wax, for example, may have a melting point greater than about 45°C, such as, for example greater than about 55°C. Non-limiting examples of such waxes include waxes of natural origin, such as beeswax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, ouricury wax, Japan wax, cork fiber wax, sugar cane wax, paraffin waxes, lignite wax, microcrystalline waxes, lanolin wax, montan wax and ozokerites, hydrogenated oils such as hydrogenated jojoba oil, jojoba esters, waxes of synthetic origin, such as polyethylene waxes derived from polymerization of ethylene, waxes obtained by Fischer-Tropsch synthesis, fatty acid esters and glycerides, and silicone waxes such as derivatives of poly(di)methylsiloxane. In one embodiment, the at least one wax may be present in the composition in an amount up to 3%, and in another embodiment in an amount of at least 3%, such as up to 30% or up to 50%.

Needless to say, the compositions of the invention should be cosmetically and/or dermatologically acceptable, i.e., they should contain a non-toxic physiologically acceptable medium and should be able to be applied to human keratinous materials. Thus, the composition of the present invention, in one embodiment, may comprise a physiologically acceptable medium, e.g., a physiologically acceptable oil or solvent. For purposes of the invention, "cosmetically and/or dermatologically acceptable" means that compositions of the invention have a pleasant appearance, odor, and taste.

The composition may also further comprise at least one suitable additive commonly used in the field concerned chosen from coloring agents, antioxidants, essential oils, preserving agents, fragrances, neutralizing agents, liposoluble or lipodispersible gelling agents, liposoluble polymers, and cosmetically active agents and dermatological active agents {i.e. an agent having a beneficial effect on the skin, lips, or superficial body growths) such as, for example, emollients, moisturizers, vitamins, essential fatty acids, and sunscreens. The compositions of the invention may further comprise at least one additional fatty material. The at least one additional fatty material may, for example, be chosen from gums, fatty materials that are pasty or viscous at ambient temperature, and resins.

The at least one additive may be present in an amount ranging from 0.01% to 20% by weight of the total weight of the composition, such as from 0.01 % to 10%.

Needless to say, the person skilled in the art will take care to select the optional additional additives and the amount thereof such that at least one advantageous property of the composition according to the invention, such as stability, is not, or is not substantially, adversely affected by the addition(s) envisaged.

The compositions of the invention may also comprise at least one coloring agent chosen from pigments, dyes, nacreous pigments {i.e., nacres), and pearling agents. The at least one coloring agent may be chosen, for example, in order to obtain make-up compositions which give good coverage, that is, which do not leave a significant amount of the at least one keratinous material to which it is applied showing through. The pigments may also reduce the sticky feel of the compositions, unlike soluble dyes. In one embodiment, the coloring agents are pigments (nacreous or non-nacreous).

Representative liposoluble dyes which may be used according to the present invention include Sudan red, DC Red 17, DC Green 6, β-carotene, soybean oil, Sudan brown, DC Yellow 11 , DC Violet 2, DC Orange 5, quinoline yellow, and annatto. The liposoluble dyes, when present, may be present in amounts ranging up to 20% by weight of the total weight of the composition, such as from 0.1% to 6%.

The pigments which may be used according to the present invention may be chosen from white, colored, mineral, organic, coated and uncoated pigments. Representative examples of mineral pigments include titanium dioxide, optionally surface-treated, zirconium oxide, zinc oxide, cerium oxide, iron oxides, chromium oxides, manganese violet, ultramarine blue, chromium hydrate and ferric blue. Representative examples of organic pigments include carbon black, pigments of D & C type, and lakes based on cochineal carmine, barium, strontium, calcium and aluminum. If present, the pigments may be present in amounts ranging up to 40% by weight of the total weight of the composition, such as from 1% to 35%, and further such as from 2% to 25%.

The nacreous pigments (or nacres) which may be used according to the present invention may be chosen from white nacreous pigments such as mica coated with titanium or with bismuth oxychioride, colored nacreous pigments such as titanium mica with iron oxides, titanium mica with ferric blue or chromium oxide, titanium mica with an organic pigment chosen from those mentioned above, and nacreous pigments based on bismuth oxychioride. The nacres, if present, may be present in amounts ranging up to 30% by weight of the total weight of the composition, such as from 0.1 % to 20%.

The packaging and application device for any subject of the invention may be chosen and manufactured by persons skilled in the art on the basis of their general knowledge, and adapted according to the nature of the composition to be packaged. Indeed, the type of device to be used may be, for example, linked to the consistency of the composition, for example, to its viscosity; it may also depend on the nature of the constituents present in the composition, such as the presence of volatile compounds. The invention will be illustrated by, but is not intended to be limited to, the following examples, wherein the amounts are given as percentages by mass.

Example 1 : Clear Anhydrous Sunscreen Stick TABLE 1

* ₁0thers: Preservatives, masking agents, colorants, vitamins, oil-soluble actives, anti-oxidants, and dermatological actives.

The compositions of table 1 were prepared using the following procedure. The ingredients of phase A were added to a main vessel and heated to 110°C - 115°C while mixing with the aid of an impeller mixer. At

110°C - 115°C, phase B was added to phase A with continued mixing. The beads of polyamide resin were allowed to dissolve and the mixture was removed from the heat and cooled to 80°C - 82°C. Phases C, D, and E were added to the AB mixture while maintaining the temperature at about 80 °C -

82°C with slow impeller mixing. The compositions were mixed until homogeneous (about 1 minute), then used to fill a suitable container or mold. The resulting compositions were firm at room temperature. A very fine uniform oil coat covered the surface of some of the compositions, however, none of the compositions failed the stability test. At elevated temperatures

(45°C), the overall structure and stick characteristics remained unchanged.

There was a moderate oil coat on the surface of the stick structure of some of the compositions; however, none of the compositions failed the stability test.

Example 2: Clear Anhydrous Sunscreen Stick with an Oil-Soluble Cationic Polymer

TABLE 2

The compositions of table 2 were prepared using the following procedure. The ingredients of phase A were added to a main vessel and heated to 110°C - 115°C while mixing with the aid of an impeller mixer. At 110°C - 115°C, phase B was added to phase A with continued mixing. The beads of polyamide resin were allowed to dissolve and the mixture was removed from the heat and cooled to 80°C - 82°C. Phases C, and D were added to the AB mixture while maintaining the temperature at about 80°C - 82°C with slow impeller mixing. The compositions were mixed until homogeneous (about 1 minute), then used to fill a suitable container or mold. The resulting compositions were firm at room temperature. A very fine uniform oil coat covered the surface of some of the compositions, however, none of the compositions failed the stability test. At elevated temperatures (45°C), the overall structure and stick characteristics remained unchanged. There was a moderate oil coat on the surface of the stick structure of some of the compositions; however, none of the compositions failed the stability test.

Example 3: Clear Anhydrous Sunscreen Sticks with an Oil-Soluble Cationic Polymer

TABLE 3

The compositions of table 3 were prepared using the following procedure. The ingredients of phase A were added to a main vessel and heated to 110°C - 115°C while mixing with the aid of an impeller mixer. At 110°C - 115°C, phase B was added to phase A with continued mixing. The beads of polyamide resin were allowed to dissolve and the mixture was removed from the heat and cooled to 80°C - 82°C. Phases C, D, and E were added to the AB mixture while maintaining the temperature at about 80°C - 82°C with slow impeller mixing. The compositions were mixed until homogeneous (about 1 minute), then used to fill a suitable container or mold. The resulting compositions were firm at room temperature. A very fine uniform oil coat covered the surface of some of the compositions, however, none of the compositions failed the stability test. At elevated temperatures (45°C), the overall structure and stick characteristics remained unchanged. There was a moderate oil coat on the surface of the stick structure; however, none of the compositions failed the stability test.

Claims

WE CLAIM:

1. A composition comprising at least one liquid fatty phase which comprises:

2. The composition according to claim 1 , wherein the composition is in a form chosen from a fluid anhydrous gel, rigid anhydrous gel, fluid simple emulsion, rigid simple emulsion, fluid multiple emulsion, and rigid multiple emulsion.

3. A structured anhydrous composition comprising at least one liquid fatty phase structured with at least one structuring polymer comprising a polymer skeleton comprising at least one hydrocarbon-based repeating unit comprising at least one heteroatom and at least one oil-soluble polymer chosen from alkyl celluloses and alkylated guar gums.

4. An anhydrous composition comprising at least one liquid fatty phase which comprises:

5. An anhydrous composition comprising at least one liquid fatty phase which comprises:

(i) at least one structuring polymer comprising: a polymer skeleton which comprises at least three hydrocarbon- based repeating units comprising at least one heteroatom; and

6. An anhydrous composition according to claim 5, wherein the at least three hydrocarbon-based repeating units are identical.

7. The composition according to one of claims 1-6, wherein said at least one structuring polymer further comprises at least one of: at least one terminal fatty chain chosen from alkyl chains and alkenyl chains, wherein said at least one terminal fatty chain is bonded to said polymer skeleton via at least one linking group; and at least one pendant fatty chain chosen from alkyl chains and alkenyl chains, wherein said at least one pendant fatty chain is bonded to said polymer skeleton via at least one linking group.

8. The composition according to claim 7, wherein said alkyl chains and said alkenyl chains each comprise at least four carbon atoms.

9. The composition according to one of claims 7 or 8, wherein said alkyl chains and said alkenyl chains each comprise from 8 to 120 carbon atoms.

10. The composition according to one of claims 7-9, wherein said alkyl chains and said alkenyl chains each comprise from 12 to 68 carbon atoms.

11. The composition according to one of claims 7-10, wherein said at least one linking group is chosen from single bonds and urea, urethane, thiourea, thiourethane, thioether, thioester, ester, ether and amine groups.

12. The composition according to one of claims 7-11 , wherein said at least one linking group is chosen from urea, ester, and amine groups.

13. The composition according to one of claims 7-12, wherein said at least one linking group is chosen from ester and amine groups.

14. The composition according to one of claims 7-13, wherein said at least one linking group is an ester group present in a proportion ranging from 15% to 40% of the total number of all ester and heteroatom groups in the at least one structuring polymer.

15. The composition according to one of claims 7-14, wherein said at least one linking group is an ester group present in a proportion ranging from 20% to 35% of the total number of all ester and heteroatom groups in the at least one structuring polymer.

16. The composition according to one of claims 7-15, wherein said at least one terminal fatty chain is functionalized.

17. The composition according to one of claims 7-16, wherein said at least one pendant fatty chain is functionalized.

18. The composition according to one of claims 7-17, wherein in said at least one structuring polymer, the percentage of the total number of fatty chains ranges from 40% to 98% relative to the total number of all repeating units and fatty chains in the at least one structuring polymer.

19. The composition according to one of claims 7-18, wherein in said at least one structuring polymer, the percentage of the total number of fatty chains ranges from 50% to 95% relative to the total number of all repeating units and fatty chains in the at least one structuring polymer.

20. The composition according to one of claims 1-19, wherein said at least one structuring polymer has a weight-average molecular mass of less than 100,000.

21. The composition according to one of claims 1-20, wherein said at least one structuring polymer has a weight-average molecular mass of less than 50,000.

22. The composition according to one of claims 1-21 , wherein said at least one structuring polymer has a weight-average molecular mass ranging from 1000 to 30,000.

23. The composition according to one of claims 1-22, wherein said at least one hydrocarbon based repeating unit comprises from 2 to 80 carbon atoms.

24. The composition according to one of claims 1-23, wherein said at least one heteroatom of said at least one hydrocarbon-based repeating unit is chosen from nitrogen, sulphur, and phosphorus.

25. The composition according to claim 24, wherein said at least one heteroatom is a nitrogen atom.

26. The composition according to one of claims 1-25, wherein said at least one heteroatom is combined with at least one atom chosen from oxygen and carbon to form a heteroatom group.

27. The composition according to claim 26, wherein said at least one heteroatom group is chosen from amide groups, carbamate groups, and urea groups.

28. The composition according to one of claims 26 or 27, wherein said at least one heteroatom group is an amide group and said polymer skeleton is a polyamide skeleton.

29. The composition according to one of claims 26-28, wherein said at least one heteroatom group is chosen from carbamate groups and urea groups and said polymer skeleton is chosen from a polyurethane skeleton, a polyurea skeleton and a polyurethane-polyurea skeleton.

30. The composition according to one of claims 1-29, wherein said at least one structuring polymer is chosen from polyamide polymers of formula (I):

in which:

- n is an integer which represents the number of amide units such that the number of ester groups present in said at least one polyamide polymer ranges from 10% to 50% of the total number of all ester groups and all amide groups comprised in said at least one polyamide polymer;

- R¹, which are identical or different, are each chosen from alkyl groups comprising at least 4 carbon atoms and alkenyl groups comprising at least 4 carbon atoms;

- R², which are identical or different, are each chosen from C₄ to C ₂ hydrocarbon-based groups, with the proviso that at least 50% of all R² are chosen from C₃o to C₄₂ hydrocarbon-based groups;

- R⁴, which are identical or different, are each chosen from hydrogen atoms, Cι to Cιo alkyl groups and a direct bond to at least one group chosen from R³ and another R⁴ such that when said at least one group is chosen from another R⁴, the nitrogen atom to which both R³ and R⁴ are bonded forms part of a heterocyclic structure defined in part by R⁴-N-R³, with the proviso that at least 50% of all R⁴ are chosen from hydrogen atoms.

31. The composition according to claim 30, wherein in said formula (I), n is an integer ranging from 1 to 5.

32. The composition according to one of claims 30 or 31 , wherein in said formula (I), said alkyl groups of R¹ and said alkenyl groups of R¹ each independently comprise from 4 to 24 carbon atoms.

33. The composition according to one of claims 30-32, wherein in said formula (I), R¹, which are identical or different, are each chosen from C₁₂ to C₂₂ alkyl groups.

34. The composition according to one of claims 30-33, wherein in said formula (I), R¹, which are identical or different, are each chosen from C₁₆ to C₂₂ alkyl groups.

35. The composition according to one of claims 30-34, wherein in said formula (I), R², which are identical or different, are each chosen from C₁₀ to C₄₂ hydrocarbon based groups, with the proviso that at least 50% of all R² are chosen from C₃₀ to C₄₂ hydrocarbon based groups.

36. The composition according to one of claims 30-35, wherein in said formula (I), R³, which can be identical or different, are each chosen from C₂ to C₃₆ hydrocarbon-based groups and polyoxyalkylene groups.

37. The composition according to one of claims 30-36, wherein R³, which can be identical or different, are each chosen from C₂ to Cι₂ hydrocarbon-based groups.

38. The composition according to one of claims 30-37, wherein in said formula (I), R⁴, which can be identical or different, are each chosen from hydrogen atoms.

39. The composition according to one of claims 30-38, wherein said at least one polymer of formula (I) is in the form of a mixture of polymers, wherein said mixture optionally also comprises a polymer of formula (I) wherein n is equal to zero.

40. The composition according to one of claims 1-39, wherein said at least one structuring polymer has a softening point greater than 50°C.

41. The composition according to one of claims 1-40, wherein said at least one structuring polymer has a softening point ranging from 65°C to less than 150°C.

42. The composition according to one of claims 1-41 , wherein said at least one structuring polymer has a softening point ranging from 70°C to less than 130°C.

43. The composition according to one of claims 1-42, wherein said at least one structuring polymer is present in the composition in an amount ranging from 0.5% to 80% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

44. The composition according to one of claims 1-43, wherein said at least one structuring polymer is present in the composition in an amount ranging from 2% to 60% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

45. The composition according to one of claims 1-44, wherein said composition has a hardness ranging from 20 gf to 2000 gf.

46. The composition according to one of claims 1-45, wherein said composition has a hardness ranging from 30 gf to 300 gf.

47. The composition according to one of claims 1-46, wherein said at least one liquid fatty phase of the composition comprises at least one oil, wherein said at least one oil is chosen from at least one polar oil and at least one apolar oil, each having an affinity with said at least one structuring polymer.

48. The composition according to claim 47, wherein said at least one polar oil is chosen from:

- hydrocarbon-based plant oils with a high content of triglycerides comprising fatty acid esters of glycerol in which the fatty acids comprise chains having from 4 to 24 carbon atoms, said chains optionally being chosen from cyclic, linear and branched, saturated and unsaturated chains;

- synthetic oils or esters of formula R₅COOR₆ in which R₅ is chosen from cyclic, linear and branched fatty acid residues comprising from 1 to 40 carbon atoms and R₆ is chosen from hydrocarbon-based chains comprising from 1 to 40 carbon atoms, with the proviso that R5 + Re > 10;

- synthetic ethers containing from 10 to 40 carbon atoms;

- Cs to C₂β fatty alcohols; and

- C₈ to C₂6 fatty acids.

49. The composition according to claim 47, wherein said at least one apolar oil is chosen from:

- silicone oils chosen from volatile and non-volatile, linear and cyclic polydimethylsiloxanes that are liquid at room temperature; - polydimethylsiloxanes comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups which are pendant and/or at the end of the silicone chain, the groups each containing from 2 to 24 carbon atoms;

- phenylsilicones; and

- hydrocarbons chosen from linear and branched, volatile and nonvolatile hydrocarbons of synthetic and mineral origin.

50. The composition according to one of claims 1-49, wherein said at least one liquid fatty phase comprises at least one nonvolatile oil.

51. The composition according to claim 50, wherein said at least one non-volatile oil is chosen from hydrocarbon-based oils of mineral, plant and synthetic origin, synthetic esters and ethers, and silicone oils.

52. The composition according to one of claims 1-51 , wherein said at least one liquid fatty phase is present in an amount ranging from 1% to 99.4% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

53. The composition according to one of claims 1-52, wherein said at least one liquid fatty phase is present in an amount ranging from 10% to 80% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

54. The composition according to one of claims 1-53, wherein said at least one liquid fatty phase comprises at least one volatile solvent chosen from hydrocarbon-based solvents and silicone solvents optionally comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups that are pendant or at the end of a silicone chain.

55. The composition according to claim 54, wherein said at least one volatile solvent is present in an amount up to 95.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

56. The composition according to one of claims 54 or 55, wherein said at least one volatile solvent is present in an amount ranging from 10% to 45% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

57. The composition according to one of claims 1-56, wherein said composition further comprises at least one additional fatty material.

58. The composition according to claim 57, wherein said at least one additional fatty material is chosen from gums, fatty materials that are pasty or viscous at ambient temperature, and resins.

59. The composition according to one of claims 1-58, wherein said alkyl celluloses are chosen from ethylcelluloses.

60. The composition according to one of claims 1-59, wherein said alkylated guar gums are chosen from C-ι-C₅ alkyl galactomannans.

61. The composition according to one of claims 1-60, wherein said alkylated guar gums are chosen from ethyl guars.

62. The composition according to one of claims 1-61 , wherein said at least one oil-soluble polymer is present in an amount ranging from 0.05% to 10.0% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

63. The composition according to one of claims 1-62, wherein said composition further comprises at least one gum.

64. The composition according to claim 63, wherein said at least one gum is chosen from alkylated guar gums.

65. The composition according to one of claims 1-64, wherein said at least one oil-soluble polymer is present in an amount ranging from 0.05 to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

66. The composition according to one of claims 1-65, wherein said at least one oil-soluble polymer is present in an amount ranging from 0.1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

67. The composition according to one of claims 1-66, wherein said composition is a solid.

68. The composition according to one of claims 1-67, wherein said composition is a solid chosen from molded and poured sticks.

69. The composition according to one of claims 1-68, further comprising at least one fatty alcohol.

70. The composition according to claim 69, wherein said at least one fatty alcohol is chosen from Cs to C₂₆ fatty alcohols.

71. The composition according to one of claims 69 or 70, wherein said at least one fatty alcohol is chosen from Cι₂ to C₂₀ fatty alcohols.

72. The composition according to one of claims 69-71 , wherein said C-ι₂ to C₂o fatty alcohols are chosen from myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and behenyl alcohol.

73. The composition according to one of claims 69-72, wherein said at least one fatty alcohol is present in an amount ranging from 0.1% to 15.0% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition.

74. The composition according to one of claims 69-73 wherein said at least one fatty alcohol is present in an amount ranging from 0.5% to 8.0% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition.

75. The composition according to one of claims 1-74, further comprising at least one oil-soluble cationic surfactant.

76. A composition according to one of claims 1-75, further comprising at least one oil-soluble ester.

77. The composition according to claim 76, wherein the at least one oil-soluble ester comprises at least one free hydroxy group.

78. The composition according to claim 76, wherein the at least one oil-soluble ester is not castor oil.

79. The composition according to claim 76, wherein the at least one oil-soluble ester is present in an amount ranging from 10% to 84% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition.

80. The composition according to one of claims 1-79, further comprising at least one wax.

81. The composition according to claim 80, wherein said at least one wax is chosen from carnauba wax, candelilla wax, ouricury wax, Japan wax, cork fiber wax, sugar cane wax, paraffin waxes, lignite wax, microcrystalline waxes, lanolin wax, montan wax, polyethylene waxes, waxes obtained by Fischer-Tropsch synthesis, silicone waxes, ozokerites, hydrogenated jojoba oil, fatty acid esters, and fatty acid ester glycerides.

82. The composition according to one of claims 80 or 81 , wherein said at least one wax is present at an amount of up to 3% relative to the total weight of said composition.

83. A composition comprising at least one liquid fatty phase which comprises:

(i) at least one structuring polymer, wherein said at least one structuring polymer is at least one polyamide polymer comprising: a polymer skeleton which comprises at least one amide repeating unit; and

84. The composition according to claim 83, wherein said at least one polyamide polymer is chosen from polymers resulting from at least one polycondensation reaction between at least one dicarboxylic acid comprising at least 32 carbon atoms and at least one amine chosen from diamines comprising at least 2 carbon atoms and triamines comprising at least 2 carbon atoms.

85. The composition according to claim 84, wherein said at least one dicarboxylic acid comprises from 32 to 44 carbon atoms and said at least one amine comprises from 2 to 36 carbon atoms.

86. The composition according to one of claims 84 or 85, wherein said at least one dicarboxylic acid is chosen from dimers of at least one fatty acid comprising at least 16 carbon atoms.

87. The composition according to one of claims 84-86, wherein said at least one fatty acid is chosen from oleic acid, linoleic acid, and linolenic acid.

88. The composition according to one of claims 84-87, wherein said at least one amine is chosen from ethylenediamine, hexylenediamine, hexamethylenediamine, phenylenediamine and ethylenetriamine.

89. The composition according to one of claims 84-88, wherein said at least one polyamide polymer is chosen from polymers comprising at least one terminal carboxylic acid group.

90. The composition according to claim 89, wherein said at least one terminal carboxylic acid group is esterified with at least one alcohol chosen from monoalcohols comprising at least 4 carbon atoms.

91. The composition according to claim 83, wherein said alkyl celluloses are chosen from ethylcelluloses.

92. The composition according to claim 83, wherein said alkylated guar gums are chosen from C₁-C₅ alkyl galactomannans.

93. The composition according to claim 83, wherein said alkylated guar gums are chosen from ethyl guars.

94. The composition according to claim 83, wherein said at least one oil-soluble polymer is present in an amount ranging from 0.05% to 10.0% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

95. The composition according to claim 83, wherein said composition further comprises at least one gum.

96. The composition according to claim 95, wherein said at least one gum is chosen from alkylated guar gums.

97. The composition according to one of claims 83-96, wherein said composition is a solid.

98. The composition according to one of claims 83-97, further comprising at least one wax.

99. A foundation, mascara, eye liner, concealer, lipstick, blush for cheeks or eyelids, body makeup, sun screen, colorant for skin or hair, skin care formula, shampoo, after shampoo treatment, or makeup removing product comprising: at least one liquid fatty phase in said foundation, mascara, eye liner, concealer, lipstick, blush for cheeks or eyelids, body makeup, sun screen, colorant for skin or hair, skin care formula, shampoo, after shampoo treatment, or makeup removing product which comprises: (i) at least one structuring polymer comprising: a polymer skeleton which comprises at least one hydrocarbon- based repeating unit comprising at least one heteroatom; and

100. An anhydrous deodorant comprising: at least one liquid fatty phase in said deodorant which comprises:

101. A make-up and/or care and/or treatment composition for at least one keratinous material comprising: at least one liquid fatty phase in said composition which comprises:

102. A lip composition in stick form comprising at least one continuous liquid fatty phase, at least one oil-soluble polymer chosen from alkyl celluloses and alkylated guar gums, and at least one non-waxy structuring polymer having a weight-average molecular mass of less than 100,000 in said lip composition.

103. A composition comprising at least one liquid fatty phase which comprises: (i) at least one structuring polymer chosen from urea urethanes having the following formula (II):

R-0-CO-NH-R'-NH-CO-NH-R"-NH-CO-NH-R'-NH-CO-OR (II)

wherein R represents C_nH_2n+ι- or C_mH_2m+1 (OC_pH_2p)_r -, wherein n represents an integer having a value greater than 22, wherein m represents an integer having a value of greater than 18, p represents an integer having a value of from 2 to 4, and r represents an integer having a value of from 1 to 10; R' represents:

or — (CH₂)₆—

and R" represents:

; and

104. A composition comprising at least one liquid fatty phase which comprises:

(ii) at least one oil-soluble polymer chosen from alkyl celluloses and alkylated guar gums, wherein said at least one structuring polymer does not include a polymer of formula (II):

R-O-CO-NH-R'-NH-CO-NH-R"-NH-CO-NH-R^,-NH-CO-OR (II) wherein R represents C_nH_2n+ι- or C_mH_2m+ι (C_pH_2pO)_r -; n represents an integer having a value of from 4 to 22; m represents an integer having a value of from 1 to 18; p represents an integer having a value of from 2 to 4; and r represents an integer having a value of from 1 to 10; R' represents:

or — (CH₂)₆— and R" represents:

105. A make up, care, or treatment composition for the skin or lips comprising a structured composition comprising at least one liquid fatty phase structured with at least one structuring polymer comprising a polymer skeleton which comprises at least one hydrocarbon-based repeating unit comprising at least one heteroatom, at least one oil-soluble polymer chosen from alkyl celluloses and alkylated guar gums, and at least one coloring agent.

106. A treatment, care or make-up composition for at least one keratinous material comprising a structured composition comprising at least one liquid fatty phase structured with at least one structuring polymer comprising a polymer skeleton comprising at least one hydrocarbon-based repeating unit comprising at least one heteroatom, at least one oil-soluble polymer chosen from alkyl celluloses and alkylated guar gums, and at least one coloring agent.

107. A structured composition comprising at least one liquid fatty phase structured with at least one structuring polymer comprising a polymer skeleton comprising at least one hydrocarbon-based repeating unit comprising at least one heteroatom, wherein the at least one structuring polymer further comprises at least one terminal fatty chain, optionally functionalized, chosen from alkyl chains and alkenyl chains, wherein said at least one terminal fatty chain is bonded to said polymer skeleton via at least one linking group chosen from amides, ureas, and esters, wherein when said at least one linking group is chosen from esters, said at least one terminal fatty chain is chosen from branched alkyl groups and at least one oil-soluble polymer chosen from alkyl celluloses and alkylated guar gums.

108. A structured composition comprising at least one liquid fatty phase structured with at least one structuring polymer comprising a polymer skeleton comprising at least one hydrocarbon-based repeating unit comprising at least one heteroatom, wherein the at least one structuring polymer further comprises at least one pendant fatty chain, optionally functionalized, chosen from alkyl chains and alkenyl chains, wherein said at least one pendant fatty chain is bonded to said polymer skeleton via at least one linking group chosen from amides, ureas, and esters, wherein when said at least one linking group is chosen from esters, said at least one pendant fatty chain is chosen from branched alkyl groups and at least one oil-soluble polymer chosen from alkyl celluloses and alkylated guar gums.

109. A method for care, make up, or treatment of at least one keratinous material, comprising applying to said at least one keratinous material a cosmetic composition comprising: at least one liquid fatty phase which comprises:

(i) at least one structuring polymer comprising: a polymer skeleton which comprises at least one hydrocarbon-based repeating unit comprising at least one heteroatom; and

110. A method for making a cosmetic composition in the form of a physiologically acceptable composition comprising including in said composition at least one liquid fatty phase which comprises:

111. A composition comprising at least one liquid fatty phase which comprises:

(i) at least one structuring polymer comprising: a polymer skeleton which comprises at least one hydrocarbon- based repeating unit comprising at least one heteroatom; and at least one terminal fatty chain chosen from alkyl chains and alkenyl chains, wherein said at least one terminal fatty chain is bonded to said polymer skeleton via at least one linking group; and

112. A method for providing at least one property of resistance to shear and stability to a cosmetic composition, comprising including in said cosmetic composition at least one liquid fatty phase which comprises:

(ii) at least one oil-soluble polymer chosen from alkyl celluloses and alkylated guar gums, and further wherein said at least one structuring polymer and said at least one oil-soluble polymer chosen from alkyl celluloses and alkylated guar gums are present in a combined amount effective to provide at least one property chosen from resistance to shear and stability to said composition.

1 3. A composition comprising at least one liquid fatty phase which comprises:

(i) at least one structuring polymer comprising: a polymer skeleton which comprises a) at least one hydrocarbon-based repeating unit comprising at least one heteroatom and b) at least one of:

- at least one terminal fatty chain, optionally functionalized, chosen from alkyl chains and alkenyl chains, wherein said at least one terminal fatty chain is bonded to said polymer skeleton via at least one linking group; and

- at least one pendant fatty chain, optionally functionalized, chosen from alkyl chains and alkenyl chains, wherein said at least one pendant fatty chain is bonded to said polymer skeleton via at least one linking group; and