WO2002047629A1

WO2002047629A1 - Use of a polymer for obtaining fast make-up of keratinous materials

Info

Publication number: WO2002047629A1
Application number: PCT/FR2001/003939
Authority: WO
Inventors: Nathalie Collin
Original assignee: L'oreal
Priority date: 2000-12-12
Filing date: 2001-12-11
Publication date: 2002-06-20
Also published as: FR2817743B1; FR2817743A1; AU2002217251A1

Abstract

The invention concerns the use of an efficient amount of a first polymer having average mole weight less than 100000, comprising: a) a polymeric skeleton, having repeat hydrocarbon units provided with at least a heteroatom, and optionally b) at least a pendent fatty chain and/or at least a terminal fatty chain optionally functionalised, having 6 to 120 carbon atoms and being bound to said hydrocarbon units, in a make-up composition comprising in a physiologically acceptable medium containing a fatty phase, as agent for increasing make-up rapidity on keratinous materials and/or for increasing adhesion on said keratinous materials and/or for increasing make-up firmness deposited on keratinous materials.

Description

Use of a polymer to obtain rapid makeup of keratin materials

The subject of the present invention is the use of a makeup composition comprising a particular polymer to obtain rapid makeup of keratin materials. The use according to the invention is more particularly intended for keratin fibers, in particular substantially longitudinal fibers, of human beings such as the eyelashes, the eyebrows and the hair or even false eyelashes or hairpieces. More specifically, the composition is a mascara. The term “mascara” is intended to mean an eyelash makeup composition, a makeup base, a product to be applied to makeup, also called a top coat, or even a cosmetic treatment product for eyelashes.

The eyelash coating compositions, called mascara, generally comprise, in known manner, at least one wax and at least one film-forming polymer for depositing a make-up film on the eyelashes and sheathing the latter, as described for example in the documents OA- 91/12793 and WO-A-95/15741. Users expect good cosmetic properties for these products such as adhesion to the eyelashes, lengthening or curling of the eyelashes, or even good resistance of the mascara over time, in particular good resistance to rubbing, for example fingers or tissues (handkerchiefs, towels).

However, with these compositions, the makeup properties such as the sheathing, the elongation or the curling of the eyelashes are obtained when a large quantity of product is deposited on the eyelashes using an applicator, such as a brush. with mascara. The user must therefore apply the product-impregnated brush several times to the eyelashes, which requires taking some time to apply makeup and obtain the desired makeup results. However, this time can be perceived as much too long by users in a hurry. There is therefore a need to have mascaras allowing the expected makeup to be obtained quickly and easily. The object of the present invention is to have a composition for making up keratin materials, in particular keratin fibers such as the eyelashes, applying easily to keratin materials and quickly leading to make-up having good cosmetic properties.

The inventors have surprisingly found that the use of a polymer with a particular heteroatom in a cosmetic composition makes it possible to improve the adhesion properties of the composition on keratin materials, in particular on keratin fibers such as the eyelashes. The composition is easily applied to keratin materials and allows the composition to be deposited quickly in an amount sufficient to obtain a makeup having the expected cosmetic properties. In particular, a thick deposit of make-up is quickly obtained on the keratin materials, which prevents users from applying the composition for too long to the keratin materials. The composition therefore allows rapid makeup (or "express" makeup) of keratin materials.

Thus, for a mascara, a makeup is obtained which rapidly thickens the keratin fibers, in particular the eyelashes; there is thus an instantaneous loading of the eyelashes.

More specifically, the subject of the invention is the use of an effective amount of a first polymer of weight average molecular mass less than 100,000, comprising a) a polymer backbone, having hydrocarbon repeating units provided with '' at least one heteroatom, and optionally b) at least one pendant fatty chain and / or at least one terminal fatty chain optionally functionalized, having from 6 to 120 carbon atoms and being linked to these hydrocarbon-based units, in a makeup composition comprising a physiologically acceptable medium containing a fatty phase, as an agent for increasing the speed of makeup on keratin materials and / or for increasing adhesion to said keratin materials and / or for rapidly increasing the charge of makeup deposited on keratin materials.

The subject of the invention is also the use of a first polymer of weight average molecular mass less than 100,000, comprising a) a skeleton polymer, having hydrocarbon repeating units provided with at least one heteroatom, and optionally b) at least one pendant fatty chain and / or at least one terminal fatty chain optionally functionalized, having from 6 to 120 carbon atoms and being linked to these hydrocarbon units, in a composition with rapid make-up and / or of good adhesion to and / or rapidly loading keratin materials, said composition comprising a physiologically acceptable medium containing a fatty phase.

The subject of the invention is also a cosmetic process for increasing the adhesion and / or the rapid charge of a cosmetic makeup composition deposited on keratin materials, consisting in introducing into said composition containing a fatty phase a first polymer of weight average molecular weight less than 100,000, comprising a) a polymer backbone, having hydrocarbon repeating units provided with at least one heteroatom, and optionally b) at least one pendant fatty chain and / or at least one terminal fatty chain optionally functionalized, having from 6 to 120 carbon atoms and being linked to these hydrocarbon-based units.

The subject of the invention is also a cosmetic process for rapidly making up keratin materials, consisting in introducing into a cosmetic makeup composition comprising a fatty phase a first polymer of average molecular weight by weight less than 100,000, comprising a) a polymeric backbone , having hydrocarbon repeating units provided with at least one heteroatom, and optionally b) at least one pendant fatty chain and / or at least one terminal fatty chain optionally functionalized, having from 6 to 120 carbon atoms and being linked to these hydrocarbon motifs.

By physiologically acceptable medium is meant a non-toxic medium capable of being applied to the skin, the integuments or the lips of human beings, such as a cosmetic medium.

By “functionalized chains” within the meaning of the invention, is meant an alkyl chain comprising one or more functional or reactive groups chosen in particular from amide, hydroxyl, ether, oxyalkylene or polyoxyalkylene groups, ha- logene, including fluorinated or perfluorinated groups, ester, siloxane, polysiloxane. In addition, the hydrogen atoms of one or more fatty chains can be substituted at least partially by fluorine atoms.

According to the invention, these chains can be linked directly to the polymer backbone or via an ester function or a perfluorinated group.

By "polymer" is meant within the meaning of the invention a compound having at least 2 repeating units, and preferably at least 3 repeating units.

By "hydrocarbon repeating units" is meant within the meaning of the invention a unit comprising from 2 to 80 carbon atoms, and preferably from 2 to 60 carbon atoms, carrying hydrogen atoms and optionally atoms of oxygen, which can be linear, branched or cyclic, saturated or unsaturated. These patterns further comprise each of one to several heteroatoms which are advantageously non-pendant and which are found in the polymer backbone. These heteroatoms are chosen from nitrogen, sulfur and phosphorus atoms and their associations, possibly associated with one or more oxygen atoms. Preferably, the patterns comprise a nitrogen atom in particular which is not pendant. These units also advantageously comprise a carbonyl group.

The heteroatom units are in particular amide units forming a skeleton of the polyamide type, carbamate and / or urea units forming a polyurethane, polyurea and / or polyurea-urethane skeleton. Preferably, these units are amide units. Advantageously, the pendant chains are linked directly to at least one of the heteroatoms of the polymer backbone.

The first polymer can comprise, between the hydrocarbon units, silicone units or oxyalkylene units.

In addition, the first polymer of the composition of the invention advantageously comprises from 40 to 98% of fatty chains relative to the total number of units with heteroatom and fatty chains and better still from 50 to 95%. The nature and proportion of the heteroatom units depends on the nature of the fatty phase and is in particular similar to the polar nature of the fatty phase. Thus, the more polar the heteroatom units and in high proportion in the first polymer, which corresponds to the presence of several heteroatoms, the more the first polymer has affinity with polar oils. On the other hand, the more the heteroatom units are not very polar or even nonpolar or in low proportion, the more the first polymer has affinity with nonpolar oils.

The first polymer is advantageously a polyamide. Also, the subject of the invention is also the uses and the processes as defined above in which the first polymer is a polyamide polymer of average molecular weight less than 100,000, comprising a) a polymer backbone, having amide repeating units, and b) optionally at least one pendant fatty chain and / or at least one terminal chain optionally functionalized, having from 8 to 120 carbon atoms and being linked to these amide units.

Preferably, the pendant fatty chains are linked to at least one of the nitrogen atoms of the amide units of the first polymer.

In particular, the fatty chains of this polyamide represent from 40 to 98% of the total number of amide units and fatty chains, and better still from 50 to 95%.

Advantageously, the first polymer, and in particular the polyamide, of the composition according to the invention has a weight-average molecular mass of less than 100,000 (in particular ranging from 1,000 to 100,000), in particular less than 50,000 (in particular ranging from 1000 to 50,000), and more particularly ranging from 1000 to 30,000, preferably from 2000 to 20,000, and better still from 2000 to 10,000.

The first polymer, and in particular polyamide, is not soluble in water, in particular at 25 ° C. In particular, it does not contain an ionic group.

As first preferred polymers which can be used in the invention, mention may be made of polyamides branched by pendant fatty chains and / or terminal fatty chains having from 6 to 120 carbon atoms and better still from 8 to 120 and no- 12 to 68 carbon atoms, each terminal fatty chain being linked to the polyamide skeleton by at least one linking group, in particular an ester. Preferably, these polymers comprise a fatty chain at each end of the polymer backbone and in particular of the polyamide backbone. As other linking group, mention may be made of the ether, amino, urea, urethane, thioester, thiourea, thiourethane groups.

These first polymers are preferably polymers resulting from a poly-condensation between a dicarboxylic acid having at least 32 carbon atoms (having in particular from 32 to 44 carbon atoms) with an amine chosen from diamines having at least 2 atoms of carbon (in particular from 2 to 36 carbon atoms) and the triamines having at least 2 carbon atoms (in particular from 2 to 36 carbon atoms. The diacid is preferably a dimer derived from ethylenically unsaturated fatty acid having at least 16 carbon atoms, preferably from 16 to 24 carbon atoms, such as oleic, linoleic or linolenic acid. The diamine is preferably ethylene diamine, hexylene diamine, hexamethylene diamine. example ethylene triamine. For polymers containing one or 2 terminal carboxylic acid groups, it is advantageous to esterify them with a monoalcohol having at least 4 carbon atoms, preferably 10 to 36 carbon atoms and better from 12 to 24 and even better from 16 to 24, for example 18 carbon atoms.

These polymers are more especially those described in document US-A-5783657 from the company Union Camp. Each of these polymers satisfies in particular the following formula (I):

R ⁴ R ⁴

R ¹ - O— [- C— R ² - C— N— R ³ - N—] n— C— R ² - C— O— R ¹ (I)

OOOO in which n denotes an integer number of amide units such that the number of ester groups represents from 10% to 50% of the total number of ester and amide groups; R ¹ is independently at each occurrence an alkyl or alkenyl group having at least 4 carbon atoms and in particular from 4 to 24 carbon atoms; R ² independently represents, at each occurrence, a C ₄ to C ₄₂ hydrocarbon group, provided that 50% of the R ² groups represent a C ₃ to C ₄₂ hydrocarbon group; R ³ independently represents, on each occurrence, an organic group provided with at least 2 carbon atoms, hydrogen atoms and optionally one or more oxygen or nitrogen atoms; and R ⁴ independently represents at each occurrence a hydrogen atom, a C1-C10 alkyl group or a direct bond to R ³ or to another R ⁴ so that the nitrogen atom to which are bonded to the times R ³ and R ⁴ are part of a heterocyclic structure defined by R -NR ³ , with at least 50% of R ⁴ representing a hydrogen atom.

In the particular case of formula (I), the terminal fatty chains optionally functionalized within the meaning of the invention are terminal chains linked to the last heteroatom, here nitrogen, of the polyamide skeleton.

In particular, the ester groups of formula (I), which are part of the terminal and / or pendant fatty chains within the meaning of the invention, represent from 15 to 40% of the total number of ester and amide groups and better still from 20 to 35%. In addition, n advantageously represents an integer ranging from 1 to 5 and better still greater than 2. Preferably, R ¹ is a Cι ₂ to C ₂₂ and preferably Cι ₆ to C ₂₂ alkyl group. Advantageously, R ² can be a C 10 -C ₄₂ hydrocarbon (alkylene) group. Preferably, at least 50% and better still at least 75% of the R ² are groups having from 30 to 42 carbon atoms. The other R ² are C ₁ to C ₁₉ hydrogenated groups and even C to C ₂ hydrogenated. Preferably, R ³ represents a C ₂ to C ₃ β hydrocarbon group or a polyoxyalkylenated group and R ⁴ represents a hydrogen atom. Preferably, R ³ represents a hydrocarbon group, C ₂ Cι _2. The hydrocarbon groups can be linear, cyclic or branched, saturated or unsaturated groups. Furthermore, the alkyl and alkylene groups may be linear or branched groups, saturated or not.

In general, the polymers of formula (1) are in the form of polymer blends, these blends can also contain a synthetic product corresponding to a compound of formula (I) where n is 0, that is to say a diester.

By way of example of the first polymers according to the invention, mention may be made of the commercial products sold by the company Arizona Chemical under the names Uni-80 and Uniclear 100. They are sold respectively in the form of an 80% gel ( active ingredient) in mineral oil and 100% (active ingredient). They have a softening point of 88 to 94 ° C. These commercial products are a mixture of copolymers of a C ₃₆ diacid condensed on ethylene diamine, of average molecular weight by weight of approximately 6000. The terminal ester groups result from the esterification of the remaining acid terminations by l cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol or their mixtures (also called cetylstearyl alcohol).

As the first polymer which can be used in the invention, mention may also be made of polyamide resins resulting from the condensation of an aliphatic di-carboxylic acid and a diamine (including compounds having more than 2 carbonyl groups and 2 groups amine), the carbonyl and amine groups of adjacent unit units being condensed by an amide bond. These polyamide resins are in particular those sold under the Versamid® brand by the companies General Mills, Incet Henkel Corp. (Versamid 930, 744 or 1655) or by the company Olin Mathie- son Chemical Corp., under the brand Onamid®, in particular Onamid S or C. These resins have a weight-average molecular mass ranging from 6000 to 9000. For more information on these polyamides, reference can be made to documents US-A-3645705 and US-A-3148125. More specifically, Versamid® 930 or 744 are used.

It is also possible to use the polyamides sold by the company Arizona Chemical under the references Uni-Rez (2658, 2931, 2970, 2621, 2613, 2624, 2665, 1554, 2623, 2662) and the product sold under the reference Macromelt 6212 by the company Henkel. For more information on these polyamides, reference may be made to document US-A-5500209.

It is also possible to use polyamide resins obtained from vegetables such as those described in patents US-A-5783657 and US-A-5998570.

The first polymer present in the composition according to the invention advantageously has a softening temperature above 65 ° C and up to 190 ° C. Preferably, it has a softening temperature ranging from 70 to 130 ° C and better still from 80 to 105 ° C. The first polymer is in particular a non-waxy polymer.

Preferably, the first polymer according to the invention corresponds to the formula (I) mentioned above. This first polymer has good solubility in oils because of their fatty chain (s), and therefore lead to macroscopically homogeneous compositions even with a high level (at least 25%) of polymer, unlike polymers free from fatty chains.

The first polymer may be present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.01% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 0.05% to 5% by weight , and better ranging from 0.1% to 3% by weight.

The fatty phase of the composition may comprise fatty substances chosen from oils, organic solvents, waxes, pasty fatty substances, and their mixtures. The fatty phase can form a continuous phase of the composition. In particular, the composition according to the invention can be anhydrous.

The fatty phase may in particular consist of any physiologically acceptable and in particular cosmetically acceptable oil, in particular chosen from oils of mineral, animal, vegetable or synthetic origin, carbonaceous, hydrocarbon-based, fluorinated and / or silicone-based, alone or as a mixture, in measurement where they form a homogeneous and stable mixture and where they are compatible with the intended use.

The total fatty phase of the composition may represent from 2% to 98% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, and preferably from 5 to 85% by weight.

Advantageously, the fatty phase of the composition can comprise at least one volatile organic oil or solvent and / or at least one non-volatile oil.

By "oil or volatile organic solvent" is meant within the meaning of the invention any non-aqueous medium capable of evaporating on contact with the skin in less than an hour, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure. The volatile organic solvent (s) and volatile oils of the invention are volatile organic solvents and cosmetic oils, liquid at room temperature, having a non-zero vapor pressure, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure, ranging in particular from 10 ^{" 2} to 300 mm of Hg (0.13 Pa to 40,000 Pa) and preferably greater than 0.3 mm of Hg (30 Pa) By "non-volatile oil" is meant an oil remaining on the skin at room temperature and atmospheric pressure at least several hours and in particular having a vapor pressure of less than 10 ^'2 mm Hg (1.33 Pa).

These oils can be hydrocarbon oils, silicone oils, fluorinated oils, or mixtures thereof.

The term "hydrocarbon-based oil" means an oil mainly containing hydrogen and carbon atoms and optionally oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur, phosphorus atoms. The volatile hydrocarbon oils can be chosen from hydrocarbon oils having from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, and in particular branched alkanes of Ca-C-iβ such as Cg-Ci6 isoalkanes of petroleum origin (also called isoparaffins) as isododecane (also called 2,2,4,4,6-pentamethylheptane), isodecane, isohexadecane, and for example the oils sold under the trade names of Isopars' or Pertyls, the branched esters in Cs-Ci6 iso-hexyl neopentanoate, and their mixtures ges. Other volatile hydrocarbon oils such as petroleum distillates, in particular those sold under the name Shell Either by the company SHELL, can also be used. Preferably, the volatile solvent is chosen from volatile hydrocarbon oils having from 8 to 16 carbon atoms and their mixtures.

As volatile oils, volatile silicones can also be used, such as, for example, volatile linear or cyclic silicone oils, in particular those having a viscosity <8 centistokes (8 10 ^_ 6 m2 / s), and in particular having from 2 to 7 atoms. of silicon, these silicones optionally comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms. As volatile silicone oil which can be used in the invention, there may be mentioned in particular octamethyl cyclotetrasiloxane, decamethyl cyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethyl cyclohexasiloxane, heptamethyl hexyltrisiloxane, heptamethyloctyl trisiloxane, hexamethyl disiloxane, octamethylisoxane decamethyl tetrasiloxane, dodecamethyl pentasiloxane and mixtures thereof.

It is also possible to use volatile fluorinated solvents such as nonafluoromethoxybutane or perfluoromethylcyclopentane.

The volatile oil can be present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0% to 98% by weight (in particular from 0.1% to 98%), relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0% to 65% by weight (in particular from 1% to 65%).

The composition can also comprise at least one non-volatile oil, and in particular chosen from non-volatile hydrocarbon and / or silicone oils and / or fluorinated oils.

As non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil, mention may in particular be made of: - hydrocarbon-based oils of vegetable origin such as triglycerides consisting of fatty acid and glycerol esters, the fatty acids of which may have various chain lengths of C ₄ to C ₂ , the latter possibly being linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated; these oils are in particular the oils of wheat germ, sunflower, grapeseed, sesame, corn, apricot, castor oil, shea, avocado, olive, soy, sweet almond, palm, rapeseed, cotton, hazelnut, macadamia, jojoba, alfalfa, poppy, pumpkin, sesame, squash, rapeseed, blackcurrant, evening primrose, millet, barley, quinoa, rye, safflower, bancoulier, passionflower, muscat rose; or the triglycerides of caprylic / capric acids such as those sold by the company Stéarineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol 810, 812 and 818 by the company Dynamit Nobel,

- synthetic ethers having from 10 to 40 carbon atoms;

- linear or branched hydrocarbons, of mineral or synthetic origin such as petroleum jelly, polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as parieam, squalane, and their mixtures;

- Synthetic esters such as oils of formula R-ιCOOR ₂ in which Ri represents the remainder of a linear or branched fatty acid containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms and R ₂ represents a notably branched hydrocarbon chain containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms provided that R ₅ + Rβ is> 10, such as, for example, Purcellin oil (cetostearyl octanoate), isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, alcohol benzoate in C-ι ₂ at C ₁₅ , hexyl laurate, diisopropyl adipate, isononyl isononanoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, isostearate isostearate, octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates 'alcohols or polyalcohols such as propylene glycol dioctanoate; hydroxylated esters such as isostearyl lactate, di-isostearyl malate; and pentaerythritol esters;

- fatty alcohols liquid at room temperature with branched and / or unsaturated carbon chain having from 12 to 26 carbon atoms such as octyl dodecanol, isostearyl alcohol, oleic alcohol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2- undecylpentadecanol;

- higher fatty acids such as oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid; and their mixtures.

The non-volatile silicone oils which can be used in the composition according to the invention may be the non-volatile polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS), the polydimethylsiloxanes comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups, during and / or at the end silicone chain, groups each having from 2 to 24 carbon atoms, phenylated silicones such as phenyl trimethicones, phenyl dimethicones, phenyl trimethylsiloxy diphenylsiloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, diphenyl methyldiphenyl trisiloxanes, 2-phenylethyl trimethylsiloxylates;

The fluorinated oils which can be used in the invention are in particular fluorosilicone oils, fluorinated polyethers, fluorinated silicones as described in document EP-A-847 752.

The non-volatile oils may be present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0 to 80% (especially from 0.1 to 80%) by weight, preferably from 0% to 50% by weight (especially 0, 1 to 50%), relative to the total weight of the composition, and better still from 0% to 20% by weight (in particular 0.1% to 20%).

The fatty phase of the composition according to the invention may comprise a wax. By "wax" is meant within the meaning of the present invention, a lipophilic fatty compound, solid at room temperature (25 ° C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg, or 105 Pa), with change of solid / liquid state reversible, having a melting temperature above 30 ° C and better still above 55 ° C and up to 200 ° C, in particular up to 120 ° C.

By bringing the wax to its melting point, it is possible to make it miscible with oils and to form a homogeneous mixture microscopically, but by bringing the temperature of the mixture to room temperature, the wax is recrystallized from the oils of the mixed.

The melting point values correspond, according to the invention, to the melting peak measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example the calorimeter sold under the name DSC 30 by the company METLER, with a temperature rise of 5 or 10 ° C per minute.

The waxes, within the meaning of the invention, are those generally used in the cosmetic and dermatological fields. Mention may in particular be made of beeswax, lanolin wax, and Chinese insect waxes; rice wax, car wax nauba, Candellila wax, Ouricury wax, cork fiber wax, sugar cane wax, Japanese wax and sumac wax; montan wax, microcrystalline waxes, paraffin waxes, ozokerites, ceresin wax, lignite wax, polyethylene waxes, waxes obtained by Fisher-Tropsch synthesis, fatty acid esters and concrete glycerides at 40 ° C and better at more than 55 ° C.

Mention may also be made of the waxes obtained by catalytic hydrogenation of animal or vegetable oils having fatty chains, linear or branched, of C8-C32. Among these, mention may in particular be made of hydrogenated jojoba oil, hydrogenated sunflower oil, hydrogenated castor oil, hydrogenated coconut oil and hydrogenated lanolin oil. Mention may also be made of silicone waxes or fluorinated waxes.

The waxes present in the composition can be dispersed in the form of particles in an aqueous medium. These particles can have an average size ranging from 50 nm to 10 μm, and preferably from 50 nm to 3.5 μm. In particular, the wax can be present in the form of a wax-in-water emulsion, the waxes being able to be in the form of particles of average size ranging from 1 μm to 10 μm, and preferably from 1 μm to 3.5 μm. In another embodiment of the composition according to the invention, the wax can be present in the form of microdispersion of wax, the wax being in the form of particles whose average size is less than 1 μm, and ranges in particular from 50 nm to 500 nm. Microdispersions of waxes are described in documents EP-A-557,196, EP-A-1048282.

The wax can also have a hardness ranging from 0.05 MPa to 15 MPa, and preferably ranging from 6 MPa to 15 MPa. The hardness is determined by measuring the compressive force measured at 20 ° C using the texturometer sold under the name TA-XT2i by the company RHEO, equipped with a stainless steel cylinder with a diameter of 2 mm. moving at the measuring speed of 0.1 mm / s, and penetrating into the wax at a penetration depth of 0.3 mm. To carry out the hardness measurement, the wax is melted at a temperature equal to the melting point of the wax + 20 ° C. The melted wax is poured into a container 30 mm in diameter and 20 mm deep. The wax is recrystallized at room temperature (25 ° C) for 24 hours, then the wax is stored for at least 1 hour at 20 ° C before carrying out the hardness measurement. The hardness value is the measured compression force divided by the surface area of the texturometer cylinder in contact with the wax.

The wax may be present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.1% to 50% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0.5% to 30% by weight, and better from 1% to 20% by weight.

The composition according to the invention may comprise at least one fatty compound which is pasty at room temperature. By "pasty fatty substance" within the meaning of the invention is meant fatty substances having a melting point ranging from 20 to 55 ° C, preferably 25 to 45 ° C, and / or a viscosity at 40 ° C ranging from 0.1 to 40 Pa.s (1 to 400 poises), preferably 0.5 to 25 Pa.s, measured with Contraves TV or Rhéomat 80, equipped with a mobile rotating at 60 Hz. Those skilled in the art can choose the mobile allowing to measure the viscosity, among the mobile MS-r3 and MS-r4, on the basis of his general knowledge, so as to be able to measure the pasty compound tested.

Preferably, these fatty substances are hydrocarbon compounds, optionally of the polymeric type; they can also be chosen from silicone and or fluorinated compounds; they can also be in the form of a mixture of hydrocarbon and / or silicone and / or fluorinated compounds. In the case of a mixture of different pasty fatty substances, use is preferably made of pasty hydrocarbon compounds (containing mainly carbon and hydrogen atoms and optionally ester groups), in the majority proportion.

Among the pasty compounds capable of being used in the composition according to the invention, mention may be made of lanolins and lanolin derivatives such as acetylated lanolines or oxypropylene lanolins or isopropyl lanolate, having a viscosity of 18 to 21 Pa.s, preferably 19 to 20.5 Pa.s, and / or a melting point of 30 to 55 ° C and their mixtures. It is also possible to use esters of fatty acids or alcohols, in particular those having 20 to 65 carbon atoms (melting point of the order of 20 to 35 ° C and / or viscosity at 40 ° C ranging from 0, 1 to 40 Pa.s) such as tri-isostearyl or cetyl citrate; arachidyl propionate; vinyl polyaurate; cholesterol esters such as triglycerides of plant origin such as hydrogenated vegetable oils, viscous polyesters such as poly (12-hydroxystearic acid) and their mixtures. As triglycerides of vegetable origin, it is possible to use derivatives of hydrogenated castor oil, such as "THIXINR" from Rheox.

Mention may also be made of silicone pasty fatty substances such as polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) having pendant chains of the alkyl or alkoxy type having from 8 to 24 carbon atoms, and a melting point of 20-55 ° C., such as stearyl dimethicones, in particular those sold by the company Dow Corning under the trade names of DC2503 and DC25514, and their mixtures.

The pasty fatty substance may be present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0 to 60% (in particular 0.01% to 60%) by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 0 , 5 to 45% by weight, and better ranging from 2% to 30% by weight, in the composition.

The composition according to the invention can also comprise an aqueous medium, constituting an aqueous phase, which can be the continuous phase of the composition.

The aqueous phase can consist essentially of water; it can also comprise a mixture of water and water-miscible solvent (miscibility in water greater than 50% by weight at 25 ° C) such as lower monoalcohols having from 1 to 5 carbon atoms such as l ethanol, isopropanol, glycols having from 2 to 8 carbon atoms such as propylene glycol, ethylene glycol, 1, 3-butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, C3-C4 ketones, aldehydes C2- C ₄ .

The aqueous phase (water and optionally the organic solvent miscible with water) may be present, in a content ranging from 1% to 95% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 3% to 80% by weight, and better still from 5% to 60% by weight. The composition according to the invention may contain emulsifying surfactants present in particular in a proportion ranging from 2 to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and better still from 5% to 15%. These surfactants can be chosen from anionic or nonionic surfactants. Reference may be made to the document “Encyclopedia of Chemical Technology, KIRK-OTHMER”, volume 22, p.333-432, 3rd edition, 1979, WILEY, for the definition of the properties and functions (emulsifier) of surfactants, in particular p .347-377 of this reference, for anionic and nonionic surfactants.

The surfactants preferably used in the composition according to the invention are chosen:

- among nonionic surfactants: fatty acids, fatty alcohols, polyethoxylated or polyglycerolated fatty alcohols such as polyethoxylated stearyl or cetylstearyl alcohols, fatty acid and sucrose esters, alkyl glucose esters, in particular the fatty esters of Cι-C ₆ alkyl glucose polyoxyethylenated, and their mixtures.

- Among the anionic surfactants: C16- 30 fatty acids neutralized by amines, ammonia or alkaline salts, and their mixtures.

Surfactants are preferably used which make it possible to obtain an oil-in-water or wax-in-water emulsion.

The composition according to the invention may comprise at least one second film-forming polymer, different from the first polymer described above.

The second film-forming polymer may be a polymer dissolved or dispersed in the form of particles in an aqueous phase of the composition or alternatively dissolved or dispersed in the form of particles in a liquid fatty phase. The composition can comprise a mixture of these polymers.

The second film-forming polymer may be present in the composition according to the invention in a dry matter content ranging from 0.1% to 60% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0.5% to 40% by weight, and better still from 1% to 30% by weight. In the present application, the term "film-forming polymer" means a polymer capable of forming on its own or in the presence of an auxiliary enhancer, a continuous and adherent film on a support, in particular on keratin materials.

Preferably, a film-forming polymer capable of forming a hydrophobic film is used, that is to say a polymer whose film has a solubility in water at 25 ° C of less than 1% by weight.

Among the film-forming polymers which can be used in the composition of the present invention, mention may be made of synthetic polymers, of radical type or of polycondensate type, polymers of natural origin, and their mixtures.

By radical film-forming polymer is meant a polymer obtained by polymerization of unsaturated monomers, in particular ethylenic, each monomer being capable of homopolymerizing (unlike polycondensates). The film-forming polymers of the radical type may in particular be vinyl polymers or copolymers, in particular acrylic polymers.

The vinyl film-forming polymers can result from the polymerization of ethylenically unsaturated monomers having at least one acid group and / or esters of these acid monomers and / or amides of these acid monomers.

As monomer carrying an acid group, α, β-ethylenic unsaturated carboxylic acids such as acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, crotonic acid, maleic acid, itaconic acid can be used. Preferably (meth) acrylic acid and crotonic acid are used, and more preferably (meth) acrylic acid.

The esters of acidic monomers are advantageously chosen from esters of (meth) acrylic acid (also called (meth) acrylates), in particular alkyl (meth) acrylates, in particular C 1 -C ₃₀ alkyl, preferably in Ci- C ₂ o, aryl (meth) acrylates, in particular C-β-C-10 aryl, hydroxyalkyl (meth) acrylates, in particular C ₂ -Cβ hydroxyalkyl. Mention may be made, among alkyl (meth) acrylates, of methyl methacrylate, ethyl methacrylate, butyl methacrylate, isobutyl methacrylate, ethyl 2-ethylhexyl methacrylate, lauryl methacrylate, cyclohexyl methacrylate.

Among the hydroxyalkyl (meth) acrylates, mention may be made of hydroxyethyl acrylate, 2-hydroxypropyl acrylate, hydroxyethyl methacrylate, 2-hydroxypropyl methacrylate. Among the aryl (meth) acrylates, mention may be made of benzyl acrylate and phenyl acrylate.

Particularly preferred esters of (meth) acrylic acid are alkyl (meth) acrylates.

According to the present invention, the alkyl group of the esters can be either fluorinated or perfluorinated, that is to say that part or all of the hydrogen atoms of the alkyl group are substituted by fluorine atoms.

As amides of the acidic monomers, there may be mentioned are (meth) acrylamides, and especially N-alkyl (meth) acrylamides, particularly alkyl C ₂ -Cι _2. Among the N-alkyl (meth) acrylamides, there may be mentioned N-ethyl acrylamide, Nt-butyl acrylamide, Nt-octyl acrylamide and N- undecylacrylamide.

The vinyl film-forming polymers can also result from the homopolymerization or from the copolymerization of monomers chosen from vinyl esters and styrene monomers. In particular, these monomers can be polymerized with acidic monomers and / or their esters and / or their amides, such as those mentioned above. Examples of vinyl esters that may be mentioned include vinyl acetate, vinyl neodecanoate, vinyl pivalate, vinyl benzoate and vinyl t-butyl benzoate. Mention may be made, as styrene monomers, of styrene and alpha-methyl styrene. It is possible to use any monomer known to a person skilled in the art falling within the categories of acrylic and vinyl monomers (including the monomers modified by a silicone chain).

Among the film-forming polycondensates, mention may be made of polyurethanes, polyesters, polyester amides, polyamides, and epoxy ester resins, polyureas.

The polyurethanes can be chosen from anionic, cationic, non-ionic or amphoteric polyurethanes, acrylic-polyurethanes, polyurethanes-polyvinylpirrolidones, polyester-polyurethanes, polyether-polyurethanes, polyureas, polyurea-polyurethanes, and their mixtures.

The polyesters can be obtained, in a known manner, by polycondensation of dicarboxylic acids with polyols, in particular diols. The dicarboxylic acid can be aliphatic, alicyclic or aromatic. Examples of such acids include: oxalic acid, malonic acid, dimethylmalonic acid, succinic acid, glutaric acid, adipic acid, pimelic acid, 2.2 acid -dimethylglutaric, azelaic acid, suberic acid, sebacic acid, fumaric acid, maleic acid, itaconic acid, phthalic acid, dodecanedioic acid, acid 1, 3- cyclohexanedicarboxylic, 1,4-cyclohexa-nedicarboxylic acid, isophthalic acid, terephthalic acid, 2,5-norborane dicarboxylic acid, diglycolic acid, thiodipropionic acid, 2,5- acid naphthalenedicarboxylic, 2,6-naphthalenedicarboxylic acid. These dicarboxylic acid monomers can be used alone or in combination of at least two dicarboxylic acid monomers. Among these monomers, phthalic acid, isophthalic acid and terephthalic acid are preferably chosen.

The diol can be chosen from aliphatic, alicyclic, aromatic diols. Use is preferably made of a diol chosen from: ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol, triethylene glycol, 1,3-propanediol, cyclohexane dimethanol, 4-butanediol. As other polyols, glycerol, pentaerythritol, sorbitol, trimethylol propane can be used. The polyester amides can be obtained in a similar manner to the polyesters, by polycondensation of diacids with diamines or amino alcohols. As diamine, ethylenediamine, hexamethylenediamine, meta- or para-phenylenediamine can be used. As amino alcohol, monethanolamine can be used.

The polyester may also comprise at least one monomer carrying at least one group -SO ₃ M, with M representing a hydrogen atom, an ammonium ion NH ₄ ⁺ or a metal ion, such as for example an ion Na ⁺ , Li ⁺ , K +, Mg ²⁺ , Ca ²⁺ , Cu ²⁺ , Fe ²⁺ , Fe ³⁺ . One can use in particular a bifunctional aromatic monomer comprising such a group -SO ₃ M.

The aromatic nucleus of the bifunctional aromatic monomer further bearing a group -SO ₃ M as described above can be chosen, for example, from benzene, naphthalene, anthracene, diphenyl, oxydiphenyl, sulfonyldiphenyl, methylenediphenyl nuclei. As an example of a bifunctional aromatic monomer further bearing an -SO ₃ M group: sulfoisophthalic acid, sulfoterephthalic acid, sulfophthalic acid, 4-sulfonaphthalene-2,7-dicarboxylic acid. It is preferred to use copolymers based on isophthalate / sulfoisophthalate, and more particularly copolymers obtained by condensation of di-ethylene glycol, cyclohexane dimethanol, isophthalic acid, sulfoisophthalic acid. Such polymers are sold, for example, under the brand name Eastman AQ® by the company Eastman Chemical Products.

The polymers of natural origin, optionally modified, can be chosen from shellac resin, sandara gum, dammars, elemis, copals, cellulose polymers, and mixtures thereof.

According to a first embodiment of the composition according to the invention, the second film-forming polymer may be present in the form of particles in aqueous dispersion, generally known under the name of latex or pseudolatex. The techniques for preparing these dispersions are well known to those skilled in the art.

As an aqueous dispersion of film-forming polymer, use may be made of the acrylic dispersions sold under the names NEOCRYL XK-90®, NEOCRYL A-1070®, NEOCRYL A-1090®, NEOCRYL BT-62®, NEOCRYL A-1079®, NEOCRYL A- 523® by the company AVECIA-NEORESINS, DOW LATEX 432® by the company DOW CHEMICAL, DAITOSOL 5000 AD® by the company DAITO KASEY KOGYO; or again the aqueous dispersions of polyurethane sold under the names NEOREZ R-981®, NEOREZ R-974® by the company AVECIA- NEORESINS, AVALURE UR-405®, AVALURE UR-410®, AVALURE UR-425 ®, AVALURE UR-450®, SANCURE 875®, SANCURE 861®, SANCURE 878®, SANCURE 2060® by the company GOODRICH, IMPRANIL 85® by the company BAYER, AQUAMERE H-1511® by the company HYDROMER.

As aqueous dispersion of film-forming polymer, it is also possible to use the polymer dispersions resulting from the radical polymerization of one or more radical monomers inside and / or partially at the surface, of pre-existing particles of at least one polymer chosen from the group consisting of polyurethanes, polyureas, polyesters, polyesteramides and / or alkyds. These polymers are generally called hybrid polymers.

According to a second alternative embodiment of the composition according to the invention, the film-forming polymer can be a water-soluble polymer and is therefore present in the aqueous phase of the composition in dissolved form. As examples of water-soluble film-forming polymers, mention may be made of

- proteins such as proteins of plant origin such as wheat proteins, soy proteins; proteins of animal origin such as keratins, for example keratin hydrolysates and sulfonic keratins; - anionic, cationic, amphoteric or nonionic chitin or chitosan polymers; cellulose polymers such as hydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose, methylcellulose, ethylhydroxyethylcellulose, carboxymethylcellulose, as well as quaternized derivatives of cellulose;

- acrylic polymers or copolymers, such as polyacrylates or polymethacrylates;

- vinyl polymers, such as polyvinylpyrrolidones, copolymers of methyl vinyl ether and malic anhydride, the copolymer of vinyl acetate and crotonic acid, copolymers of vinyipyrrolidone and vinyl acetate; copolymers of vinyipyrrolidone and caprolactam; polyvinyl alcohol;

- polymers of natural origin, possibly modified, such as:

. gum arabic, guar gum, xanthan derivatives, karaya gum;

. alginates and carrageenans;

. glycoaminoglycans, hyaluronic acid and its derivatives;

. shellac resin, sandara gum, dammars, elemis, copals;

. deoxyribonucleic acid;

. muccopolysaccharides such as hyaluronic acid, chondroitins sulfate, and mixtures thereof.

According to another alternative embodiment of the composition according to the invention, the film-forming polymer may be present in a liquid fatty phase comprising oils or organic solvents such as those described above. By "liquid fatty phase" is meant, within the meaning of the invention, a fatty phase liquid at room temperature (25 ° C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg, or 105 Pa), composed of one or more bodies fats liquid at room temperature, also called oils, generally compatible with each other. Preferably, the liquid fatty phase comprises a volatile oil, optionally in admixture with a non-volatile oil, the oils being able to be chosen from the oils mentioned above.

According to a third embodiment of the composition according to the invention, the film-forming polymer can be present in the form of particles, surface stabilized, dispersed in the liquid fatty phase. The dispersion of surface stabilized polymer particles can be manufactured as described in document EP-A-749747.

The polymer particles are surface stabilized by means of a stabilizer which can be a block polymer, a graft polymer, and / or a random polymer, alone or as a mixture.

Dispersions of film-forming polymer in the liquid fatty phase, in the presence of stabilizing agents, are in particular described in documents EP-A-749746, EP-A-923928, EP-A-930060, the content of which is incorporated by reference in this application.

The size of the polymer particles in dispersion either in the aqueous phase or in the liquid fatty phase can range from 5 nm to 600 nm, and preferably from 20 nm to 300 nm.

According to a fourth embodiment of the composition according to the invention, the film-forming polymer can be dissolved in the liquid fatty phase, it is then said that the film-forming polymer is a liposoluble polymer.

By way of example of a liposoluble polymer, mention may be made of vinyl ester copolymers (the vinyl group being directly linked to the oxygen atom of the ester group and the vinyl ester having a saturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon radical, from 1 to 19 carbon atoms, linked to the carbonyl of the ester group) and at least one other monomer which may be a vinyl ester (different from the vinyl ester already present), an α-olefin (having from 8 to 28 carbon atoms), an alkylvinyl ether (in which the alkyl group contains from 2 to 18 carbon atoms), or an allyl or methallyl ester (having a saturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon radical of 1 to 19 carbon atoms, bound carbonyl of the ester group).

These copolymers can be crosslinked using crosslinking agents which have the aim which can be either of the vinyl type, or of the allyl or methallyl type, such as tetraallyloxyethane, divinylbenzene, divinyl octanedioate, divinyl dodecane dioate, and divinyl octadecanedioate.

As examples of these copolymers, mention may be made of the copolymers: vinyl acetate / allyl stearate, vinyl acetate / vinyl laurate, vinyl acetate / vinyl stearate, vinyl acetate / octadecene, vi acetate - nyle / octadecylvinyl ether, vinyl propionate / allyl laurate, vinyl propionate / vinyl laurate, vinyl stearate / octadecene-1, vinyl acetate / dodecene-1, vinyl stearate / ethylvinyl ether, vinyl propionate / cetyl vinyl ether, vinyl stearate / allyl acetate, 2-dimethyl, 2 vinyl octanoate / vinyl laurate, 2-dimethyl, 2 allyl pentanoate / vinyl laurate, vinyl dimethyl propionate / vinyl stearate , allyl dimethyl propionate / vinyl stearate, vinyl propionate / vinyl stearate, crosslinked with 0.2% divinyl benzene, vinyl dimethyl propionate / vinyl laurate, crosslinked with 0.2% divinyl benzene, acetate vinyl / octadecyl vinyl ether, crosslinked with 0.2% tetraallyloxyethane, vinyl acetate / allyl stearate, crosslinked with 0.2% divinyl benzene, vinyl acetate / octadecene-1 crosslinked with 0.2% divinyl benzene and allyl propionate / allyl stearate crosslinked with 0 , 2% divinyl benzene.

As liposoluble film-forming polymers, mention may also be made of liposoluble homopolymers, and in particular those resulting from the homopolymerization of vinyl esters having from 9 to 22 carbon atoms or of alkyl acrylates or methacrylates, alkyl radicals having 10 to 20 carbon atoms.

Such liposoluble homopolymers can be chosen from vinyl polystearate, vinyl polystearate crosslinked using divinylbenzene, diallylether or diallyl phthalate, poly (stearyl poly (meth) acrylate, vinyl polylaurate, poly ( lauryl meth) acrylate, these poly (meth) acrylates being able to be crosslinked using ethylene glycol dimethacrylate or tetraethylene glycol.

The liposoluble copolymers and homopolymers defined above are known and in particular described in application FR-A-2232303; they can have a weight average molecular weight ranging from 2,000 to 500,000 and preferably from 4,000 to 200,000. As liposoluble film-forming polymers which can be used in the invention, mention may also be made of polyalkylenes and in particular copolymers of C ₂ - C ₂₀ alkenes, such as polybutene, alkylcelluloses with a linear or branched alkyl radical, saturated or not of Ci to Cs such as ethylcellulose and propylcellulose, the vinylpyrolidone (VP) copolymers and in particular the copolymers of vinyipyrrolidone and of C ₂ to C o and better C ₃ to C ₂ o alkene- As an example of VP co-polymer which can be used in the invention, there may be mentioned the copolymer of VP / vinyl acetate, VP / ethyl methacrylate, butylated polyvinylpyrolidone (PVP), VP / ethyl methacrylate / methacrylic acid, VP / eicosene , VP / hexadecene, VP / triacontene, VP / styrene, VP / acrylic acid / lauryl methacrylate.

The composition according to the invention may comprise an auxiliary film-forming agent promoting the formation of a film with the film-forming polymer. Such a film-forming agent can be chosen from all the compounds known to a person skilled in the art as being capable of filling. the desired function, and in particular be chosen from plasticizing agents and coalescing agents.

The composition according to the invention may also comprise a coloring material such as pulverulent coloring matters, liposoluble dyes, water-soluble dyes. This coloring material can be present in a content ranging from 0.01% to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The pulverulent coloring matters can be chosen from pigments and nacres.

The pigments can be white or colored, mineral and / or organic, coated or not. Among the mineral pigments, mention may be made of titanium dioxide, optionally surface-treated, zirconium, zinc or cerium oxides, as well as iron or chromium oxides, manganese violet, ultramarine blue, l hydrate of chromium and ferric blue. Among the organic pigments, there may be mentioned carbon black, pigments of the D & C type, and lakes based on cochineal carmine, barium, strontium, calcium, aluminum. The nacres can be chosen from white pearlescent pigments such as mica coated with titanium or bismuth oxychloride, colored pearly pigments such as mica titanium with iron oxides, mica titanium with in particular ferric blue or l chromium oxide, titanium mica with an organic pigment of the aforementioned type as well as pearlescent pigments based on bismuth oxychloride.

The liposoluble dyes are for example Sudan red, D&C Red 17, D&C Green 6, β-carotene, soybean oil, Sudan brown, D&C Yellow 11, D&C Violet 2,. D&C orange 5, quinoline yellow, annatto. The water-soluble dyes are, for example, beet juice, methylene blue.

The composition of the invention may also comprise any additive usually used in cosmetics, such as antioxidants, fillers, preserving agents, fragrances, neutralizers, thickeners, cosmetic active agents or dermatological ^'cal as e.g. emollients, moisturizers, vitamins, sunscreens, and mixtures thereof. These additives can be present in the composition in a content ranging from 0 to 20% (in particular from 0.01 to 20%) of the total weight of the composition and better still from 0.01 to 10% (if present).

Of course, those skilled in the art will take care to choose any additional additives and / or their quantity in such a way that the advantageous properties of the composition according to the invention are not or substantially not affected by the addition envisaged.

The composition according to the invention can be produced by known methods, generally used in the cosmetic or dermatological field.

The invention is illustrated in more detail in the following examples.

Example 1:

We prepared a mascara with the following composition:

- Carnauba wax 2.6 g - Beeswax 3.3 g

- Paraffin wax 10.4 g

- Hydrogenated jojoba oil 0.2 g

- Hydrogenated palm oil 0.2 g

- Polyamide resin with terminal ester groups sold under the name "UNICLEAR® 100" by the company

Arizona Chemical 1 g

- 2-amino-2-methyl-propanediol-1, 3 0.8 g

- Triethanolamine 2.4, g - Stearic acid 6.6 g

- Hydroxyethylceliulose 0.8 g

- Arabic gum 0.6 g

- Ethyl acrylate / methyl methacrylate copolymer (80/20) in aqueous dispersion at 50% MA

(DAITOSOL 5000 AD from SAITO) 5 g MA

- Black iron oxide 7 g

- Preservatives qs

- Water qs 100 g

This mascara is easily applied, adheres well to the eyelashes during and after application; these are made up quickly. It gives instant lash charge.

Example 2:

We prepared a mascara with the following composition:

- Camauba wax 4.6 g - Rice bran wax 2.1 g

- Paraffin 2.2 g

- Beeswax 8.2 g

- Polyamide resin with terminal ester groups sold. under the name "UNICLEAR® 100" by the company

Arizona Chemical 1 g

- Talc 1 g

- Bentonite 5 g

- Vinyl acetate / allyl stearate copolymer (65/35) (Mexomer PQ from CHIMEX) 6.5 g

- Vinyl polylaurate (Mexomer.PP from CHIMEX) 0.7 g

- Sulfopolyester (AQ 55S from EASTMAN CHEMICAL) 0.12 g

- Isododecane 53.9 g - Propylene carbonate 1.6 g

- Pigments 4.9 g

- Preservatives qs

- Water qs 100 g

This mascara adheres well to the eyelashes during and after application. It gives eyelashes an instant charge and makes it possible to make up quickly

Claims

1. Use of an effective amount of a first polymer of weight average molecular mass less than 100,000, comprising a) a polymer backbone, having hydrocarbon repeating units provided with at least one heteroatom, and optionally b) at at least one pendant fatty chain and / or at least one terminal fatty chain optionally functionalized, having from 6 to 120 carbon atoms and being linked to these hydrocarbon-based units, in a makeup composition comprising a physiologically acceptable medium containing a fatty phase, as agent to increase the speed of makeup on the keratin materials and / or to increase the adhesion to said keratin materials and / or to rapidly increase the charge of the makeup deposited on the keratin materials.

2. Use of a first polymer of average molecular mass by weight less than 100,000, comprising a) a polymer backbone, having hydrocarbon repeating units provided with at least one heteroatom, and optionally b) at least one pendant fatty chain and / or at least one optionally functionalized terminal fatty chain, having from 6 to 120 carbon atoms and being linked to these hydrocarbon-based units, in a composition with rapid make-up and / or of good adhesion to and / or rapidly charging keratin materials, said composition comprising a physiologically acceptable medium containing a fatty phase.

3. Use according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that the average molar mass of the first polymer is less than 50,000.

4. Use according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the heteroatom units of the first polymer comprise a nitrogen atom.

5. Use according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the heteroatom units of the first polymer are amide groups.

6. Use according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the fatty chains represent from 40 to 98%, and better still from 50 to 95%, of the total number of heteroatom units and fatty chains.

7. Use according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the fatty chains represent from 50 to 95% of the total number of heteroatom units and fatty chains.

8. Use according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the hanging fatty chains are linked directly to at least one of said heteroatoms.

9. Use of an effective amount of a first polyamide polymer with a weight average molecular mass of less than 100,000, comprising a) a polymer backbone having repeating amide units, and b) optionally at least one pendant fatty chain and / or at least one optionally functionalized terminal fatty chain, having from 8 to 120 carbon atoms and being linked to these amide units, in a makeup composition comprising a physiologically acceptable medium containing a fatty phase, as an agent for increasing the speed of makeup on keratin materials and / or to increase the adhesion to said keratin materials and / or to rapidly increase the charge of the makeup deposited on the keratin materials.

10. Use of a first polyamide polymer of average molecular weight less than 100,000, comprising a) a polymer backbone having repeating amide units, and b) optionally at least one pendant fatty chain and / or at least one chain optionally functionalized terminal fatty, having from 8 to 120 carbon atoms and being linked to these amide units, in a composition with rapid make-up and / or of good adhesion to and / or rapidly loading keratinous materials, said composition comprising a physiologically acceptable medium containing an oily phase.

11 Use according to claim 9 or 10, characterized in that the fatty chains represent from 40 to 98% of the total number of amide units and fatty chains.

12. Use according to any one of claims 9 to 11, characterized in that the fatty chains represent from 50 to 95% of the total number of amide units and fatty chains.

13. Use according to any one of claims 9 to 12, characterized in that the hanging fatty chains are linked directly to at least one of the nitrogen atoms of the amide units.

14. Use according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the weight-average molecular weight of the first polymer ranges from 1000 to 100,000, preferably from 1,000 to 50,000, and better still from 1,000 to 30,000.

15. Use according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the weight-average molar mass of the first film-forming polymer ranges from 2

000 to 20,000, and preferably 2,000 to 10,000.

16. Use according to one of the preceding claims, ^{'characterized} in that the at least one terminal fatty chains are linked to the backbone by linking groups.

17. Use according to claim 16, characterized in that the linking groups are ester groups.

18. Use according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the fatty chains have from 12 to 68 carbon atoms.

19. Use according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the first polymer is chosen from the polymers of formula (I) below and their mixtures:

R ⁴ R ⁴

R ¹ - O— [- C— R ² - C— N— R ³ - N—] _n - C— R ² - C— O— R ¹ (I)

O O O O

in which n denotes a number of amide units such that the number of ester groups represents from 10% to 50% of the total number of ester and amide groups; R ¹ is independently at each occurrence an alkyl or alkenyl group having at least 4 carbon atoms; R ² independently represents a C to C ₄₂ hydrocarbon group at each occurrence, provided that at least 50% of the R ² groups represent a C ₃₀ to C ₂ hydrocarbon group; R ³ independently represents at each occurrence an organic group provided with at least 2 carbon atoms, hydrogen atoms and optionally one or more oxygen or nitrogen atoms; and R ⁴ is independently at each occurrence a hydrogen atom, an alkyl group at C ₁₀ or a direct bond to R ³ or another R ⁴ so that the nitrogen atom to which are linked to both R ³ and R ⁴ is part of a heterocyclic structure defined by R ⁴ -NR ³ , with at least 50% of the R ⁴ representing a hydrogen atom.

20. Use according to claim 19, characterized in that R ¹ is a C-ι ₂ to C ₂₂ alkyl group -

21. Use according to claim 19 or 20, characterized in that R ² are groups having from 30 to 42 carbon atoms.

22. Use according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the first polymer is present in a content ranging from 0.01% at 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 0.05% to 5% by weight, and better still ranging from 0.1% to 3% by weight.

23. Use according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the fatty phase comprises at least one wax.

24. Use according to claim 23, characterized in that the wax is chosen from the group formed by beeswax, lanolin wax, Chinese insect waxes, rice wax, Camauba wax , Candellila wax, Ouricury wax, cork fiber wax, sugar cane wax, Japanese wax and sumac wax, montan wax, microcrystalline waxes, paraffin waxes, ozokerites, ceresin wax, lignite wax, polyethylene waxes, waxes obtained by Fisher-Tropsch synthesis, fatty acid esters and glycerides concrete at 40 ° C, waxes obtained by catalytic hydrogenation animal or vegetable oils having fatty chains, linear or branched, of C8-C32, silicone waxes, fluorinated waxes, and their mixtures.

25. Use according to claim 23 or 24, characterized in that the wax is present in a content ranging from 0.1% to 50% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably 0.5% to 30% by weight, and better still from 1% to 20% by weight.

26. Use according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the fatty phase comprises at least one oil chosen from the group formed by oils of mineral, animal, vegetable or synthetic, hydrocarbon, fluorinated and / or silicone, alone or as a mixture.

27. Use according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the fatty phase comprises at least one volatile oil.

28. Use according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the fatty phase comprises a volatile oil chosen from volatile hydrocarbon oils having from 8 to 16 carbon atoms.

29. Use according to claim 27 or 28, characterized in that the volatile oil is present in a content ranging from 0.1% to 98% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, and preferably from 1 % to 65% by weight.

30. Use according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the composition comprises an aqueous phase containing water or a mixture of water and organic solvent miscible with water.

31. Use according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the composition comprises a second film-forming polymer different from the first polymer.

32. Use according to claim 31, characterized in that the second film-forming polymer is chosen from the group formed by vinyl polymers, polyurethanes, polyesters, polyamides, polyureas, cellulose polymers.

33. Use according to claim 31 or 32, characterized in that the second film-forming polymer is present in a dry matter content ranging from 0.1% to 60% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0.5% to 40% by weight, and better still from 1% to 30% by weight.

34. Use according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the composition contains at least one coloring material.

35. Use according to claim 34, characterized in that the coloring matter is chosen from pigments, nacres, water-soluble dyes, liposoluble dyes, and mixtures thereof.

36. Use according to claim 34 or 35, characterized in that the coloring matter is present in an amount of 0.01 to 50% of the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 0.01% to 30% by weight.

37. Use according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the composition contains at least one additive chosen from surfactants, thickeners, antioxidants, fillers, preservatives, perfumes, neutralizers, cosmetic active agents or dermatological, and their mixtures.

38. Use according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the composition is in the form of mascara, eyeliner, product for the eyebrows, product for the lips, blush or eyelids, foundation, body makeup, concealer, nail polish, hair product.

39. Cosmetic method for increasing the adhesion and / or the rapid charge of a cosmetic make-up composition, consisting in introducing into said composition containing a fatty phase a first polymer of average molecular weight by weight less than 100,000, comprising a) a polymer backbone, having hydrocarbon repeating units provided with at least one heteroatom, and optionally b) at least one pendant fatty chain and / or at least one optionally functionalized terminal fatty chain, having from 6 to 120 carbon atoms and being linked to these hydrocarbon units.

40. Cosmetic process for rapidly making up keratin materials, consisting in introducing into a cosmetic makeup composition comprising a fatty phase a first polymer of average molecular weight by weight less than 100,000, comprising a) a polymeric backbone, having repeating patterns hydrocarbons provided with at least one heteroatom, and optionally b) at least one pendant fatty chain and / or at least one terminal fatty chain optionally functionalized, having from 6 to 120 carbon atoms and being linked to these hydrocarbon units.

41. The method of claim 39 or 40, characterized in that the average molar mass of the first polymer is less than 50,000.

42. Method according to any one of claims 39 to 41, characterized in that the heteroatom units of the first polymer comprise a nitrogen atom.

43. Method according to any one of claims 39 to 42, characterized in that the heteroatom units of the first polymer are amide groups.

44. Method according to any one of claims 39 to 43, characterized in that the fatty chains represent from 40 to 98%, and better still from 50 to 95%, of the total number of heteroatom units and fatty chains.

45. A method according to any one of claims 39 to 44, characterized in that the fatty chains represent from 50 to 95% of the total number of heteroatom units and fatty chains.

46. Method according to any one of claims 39 to 45, characterized in that the hanging fatty chains are linked directly to at least one of said heteroatoms.

47. Cosmetic process for increasing the adhesion and / or rapid loading of a cosmetic makeup composition deposited on keratin materials, consisting in introducing into said composition containing a fatty phase a first polyamide polymer of average molecular weight by weight less than 100,000, comprising a) a polymer backbone having repeating amide units, and b) optionally at least one pendant fatty chain and / or at least one terminal fatty chain optionally functionalized, having from 8 to 120 carbon atoms and being linked to these amide patterns,

48. Cosmetic process for rapidly making up keratin materials, consisting in introducing into a cosmetic makeup composition comprising a fatty phase a first polyamide polymer of average molecular weight by weight less than 100,000, comprising a) a polymeric backbone having repeating units amide, and b) optionally at least one pendant fatty chain and / or at least one terminal fatty chain optionally functionalized, having from 8 to 120 carbon atoms and being linked to these amide units.

49. The method of claim 47 or 48, characterized in that the fatty chains represent from 40 to 98% of the total number of amide units and fatty chains.

50. Method according to any one of claims 47 to 49, characterized in that the fatty chains represent from 50 to 95% of the total number of amide units and fatty chains.

51. Method according to any one of claims 47 to 50, characterized in that the hanging fatty chains are linked directly to at least one of the nitrogen atoms of the amide units.

52. Method according to any one of claims 39 to 51, characterized in that the weight-average molecular mass of the first polymer ranges from 1000 to 100,000, preferably from 1000 to 50,000, and better still from 1,000 to 30 000.

53. Method according to one of claims 39 to 52, characterized in that the weight-average molar mass of the first film-forming polymer ranges from 2,000 to 20,000, and preferably from 2,000 to 10,000.

54. Method according to one of claims 39 to 53, characterized in that the terminal fatty chain (s) are linked to the skeleton by groups of. link.

55. The method of claim 54, characterized in that the linking groups are ester groups.

56. Method according to any one of claims 39 to 55, characterized in that the fatty chains have from 12 to 68 carbon atoms.

57. Process according to any one of claims 39 to 56, characterized in that the first polymer is chosen from the polymers of formula (I) below and their mixtures:

R ⁴ R ⁴

O O O O

in which n denotes a number of amide units such that the number of ester groups represents from 10% to 50% of the total number of ester and amide groups; R ¹ is independently at each occurrence an alkyl or alkenyl group having at least 4 carbon atoms; R ² independently represents at each occurrence a C ₄ to C ₂ hydrocarbon group, provided that at least 50% of the R ² groups represent a C ₃₀ to C ₂ hydrocarbon group; R ³ independently represents at each occurrence an organic group provided with at least 2 carbon atoms, hydrogen atoms and optionally one or more oxygen or nitrogen atoms; and R ⁴ is independently at each occurrence a hydrogen atom, an alkyl group at C ₁₀ or a direct bond to R ³ or another R ⁴ so that the nitrogen atom to which are linked to both R ³ and R ⁴ is part of a heterocyclic structure defined by R ⁴ -NR ³ , with at least 50% of the R ⁴ representing a hydrogen atom.

58. The method of claim 57, characterized in that R ¹ is a C 12 -C ₂ alkyl group 2-

59. Method according to claim 57 or 58, characterized in that R ² are groups having from 30 to 42 carbon atoms.

60. Method according to any one of claims 39 to 59, characterized in that the first polymer is present in a content ranging from 0.01% to 10% in weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 0.05% to 5% by weight, and better still ranging from 0.1% to 3% by weight.

61. Method according to any one of claims 39 to 60, characterized in that the fatty phase comprises at least one wax.

62. The method of claim 61, characterized in that the wax is chosen from the group formed by beeswax, lanolin wax, Chinese insect waxes, rice wax, Carnauba wax , Candellila wax, Ouricury wax, cork fiber wax, sugar cane wax, Japanese wax and sumac wax, montan wax, microcrystalline waxes, paraffin waxes, ozokerites, ceresin wax, lignite wax, polyethylene waxes, waxes obtained by Fisher-Tropsch synthesis, fatty acid esters and glycerides concrete at 40 ° C, waxes obtained by catalytic hydrogenation animal or vegetable oils having fatty chains, linear or branched, of C8-C32, silicone waxes, fluorinated waxes, and their mixtures.

63. The method of claim 61 or 62, characterized in that the wax is present in a content ranging from 0.1% to 50% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably 0.5% to 30% by weight, and better still from 1% to 20% by weight.

64. Process according to any one of claims 39 to 63, characterized in that the fatty phase comprises at least one oil chosen from the group formed by oils of mineral, animal, vegetable or synthetic origin, hydrocarbon, fluorine and / or silicone, alone or as a mixture.

65. Method according to any one of claims 39 to 64, characterized in that the fatty phase comprises at least one volatile oil.

66. Method according to any one of claims 39 to 65, characterized in that the fatty phase comprises a volatile oil chosen from volatile hydrocarbon oils having from 8 to 16 carbon atoms.

67. Process according to claim 65 or 66, characterized in that the volatile oil is present in a content ranging from 0.1% to 98% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, and preferably from 1 % to 65% by weight.

68. Method according to any one of claims 39 to 67, characterized in that the composition comprises an aqueous phase containing water or a mixture of water and organic solvent miscible with water.

69. Method according to any one of claims 39 to 68, characterized in that the composition comprises a second film-forming polymer different from the first polymer.

70. Method according to claim 69, characterized in that the second film-forming polymer is chosen from the group formed by vinyl polymers, polyurethanes, polyesters, polyamides, polyureas, cellulosic polymers.

71. The method of claim 69 or 70, characterized in that the second film-forming polymer is present in a dry matter content ranging from 0.1% to 60% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably 0 , 5% to 40% by weight, and better still 1% to 30% by weight.

72. Method according to any one of claims 39 to 71, characterized in that the composition contains at least one coloring material.

73. Method according to claim 72, characterized in that the coloring matter is chosen from pigments, pearlescent agents, water-soluble dyes, liposoluble dyes, and mixtures thereof.

74. The method of claim 72 or 73, characterized in that the coloring material is present in an amount of 0.01 to 50% of the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 0.01% to 30% by weight.

75. Method according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the composition contains at least one additive chosen from surfactants, thickeners, antioxidants, fillers, preservatives, perfumes, neutralizers, cosmetic active agents or dermatological, and their mixtures.

76. Method according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the composition is in the form of mascara, eyeliner, product for the eyebrows, product for the lips, blush or eyelids, foundation, body makeup, concealer, nail polish, hair product.