WO1999062478A1

WO1999062478A1 - Cosmetic or dermatologic preparations containing catechins or green tea extract

Info

Publication number: WO1999062478A1
Application number: PCT/EP1999/003777
Authority: WO
Inventors: Volker Schreiner; Uwe SCHÖNROCK; Franz STÄB; Heiner Max; Konrad Sandhoff; Thomas Döring
Original assignee: Beiersdorf Ag
Priority date: 1998-06-03
Filing date: 1999-06-01
Publication date: 1999-12-09
Also published as: JP2002516835A; DE19824727A1; EP1082100A1

Abstract

The invention relates to the use of catechins or bile acid esters of catechin or aqueous or organic extracts from plants or plant parts which contain catechins or bile acid esters of catechins, for example, of the leaves of the plant family Theaceae, especially of the species Camellia sinensis (green tea) or typical constituents thereof (such as, e.g. polyphenols or catechins, caffeine, vitamins, sugar, minerals, amino acids, lipids) for the prophylaxis, treatment and/or care of dry skin conditions.

Description

description

Cosmetic or dermatological preparations containing catechins or extract of green tea

The present invention relates to cosmetic or dermatological dermatological preparations containing active ingredients for the care and protection of the skin, in particular sensitive and dry skin, as well as particularly in the foreground of skin aged or aging due to intrinsic and / or extrinsic factors, and the use thereof Active ingredients and combinations of such active ingredients in the field of cosmetic and dermatological skin care.

Cosmetic skin care is primarily to be understood as meaning that the natural function of the skin as a barrier against environmental influences (e.g. dirt, chemicals, microorganisms) and against the loss of the body's own substances (e.g. water, natural fats, electrolytes) is strengthened or restored.

If this function is disturbed, there may be an increased absorption of toxic or allergenic substances or an infestation of microorganisms and, as a result, toxic or allergic skin reactions.

The aim of skin care is also to compensate for the loss of fat and water in the skin caused by daily washing. This is especially important when the natural regeneration ability is insufficient. In addition, skin care products are intended to protect against environmental influences, especially sun and wind, and to delay skin aging.

The horny layer of the skin is characterized by a special structure that on the one hand protects the skin against loss of vital cell water or the penetration of external pollutants and on the other hand stabilizes its own flexibility by binding a defined amount of water: intercellular lipids, consisting of free sterols and fatty acids as well as different ceramide classes, form within the layers a barrier in the form of extracellular, multilamellar and water-impermeable membrane systems.

The lipid membranes surround the dead corneocytes with embedded hygroscopic substances. The Hom layer is in a constant process of renewal, whereby fine scales (corneocytes with adhering lipids) are continuously released to the outside and cell and lipid material horned from the inside is reproduced. In balance, the regeneration process does not change the transepidermal water loss.

Even a simple water bath without the addition of surfactants initially causes the skin's swelling to swell, the degree of this swelling depending, for example, on the duration of the bath and its temperature. At the same time, water-soluble substances, e.g. water-soluble dirt components, but also skin's own substances, which are responsible for the water-binding capacity of the hom layer, washed or washed out. The skin's own surface-active substances also dissolve and wash out skin fats to a certain extent. After initial swelling, this causes a subsequent significant drying out of the skin, which can be intensified by washing-active additives.

In healthy skin, these processes are generally irrelevant, since the protective mechanisms of the skin can easily compensate for such slight disorders of the upper layers of the skin. But already in the case of non-pathological deviations from normal status, e.g. The protective mechanism of the skin surface is disturbed by environmental damage or irritation, light damage, aging skin, etc. Under certain circumstances, he may no longer be able to fulfill his task on his own and must be regenerated by external measures.

In addition, it is known that the lipid composition and amount of the homolayer of the pathologically altered, dry and dry, but not diseased skin of younger and older people deviate from the normal condition found in healthy, normally hydrated skin of an equal age group. The changes in the lipid pattern of the very dry, non-eczematous skin of patients with atopic eczema represent an extreme case for the deviations that are found in the dry skin of healthy people. These deviations particularly affect the ceramides, which are greatly reduced in their quantity and are also composed differently. What is striking is the deficit in ceramides 1 and 3, it being known in particular for ceramide 1 that it increases the order of the lipids in the intercellular membrane systems in a special way.

Adverse changes in the lipid membranes of the type described above may be due to remotely controlled lipid biosynthesis and also ultimately increase transepidermal water loss. A long-lasting barrier weakness in turn makes the healthy skin more sensitive and in individual cases can contribute to the development of eczematous processes in the diseased skin.

The effect of ointments and creams on the barrier function and hydration of the home layer usually does not consist in restoring or strengthening the physicochemical properties of the lamellae made of intercellular lipids. A major partial effect is due to the mere covering of the treated skin areas and the resulting water retention in the underlying layer. Applied hygroscopic substances bind the water so that there is a measurable increase in the water content in the hom layer. However, this purely physical barrier can be removed relatively easily. After stopping the product, the skin quickly returns to the state it was in before the treatment started. In addition, the skin care effect can diminish with regular treatment, so that the status quo is finally reached again even during treatment. With certain products, the condition of the skin may temporarily deteriorate after discontinuation. A sustainable product effect is therefore generally not achieved or only to a limited extent.

In order to support the deficient skin in its natural regeneration and to strengthen its physiological function, intercellular lipid mixtures, which are to be used by the skin to rebuild the natural barrier, are increasingly being added to topical preparations. However, these lipids, especially the ceramides, are very expensive raw materials. In addition, their effect is usually much less than expected. The aim of the present invention was therefore to find ways to avoid the disadvantages of the prior art. In particular, the effects of skin care products should be physiological, quick and sustainable.

According to the invention, these objects are achieved by the subject of the invention are also the use of catechins or gailensate esters of catechins or aqueous or organic extracts from plants or parts of plants which contain catechins or gailensate esters of catechins, for example the leaves of the plant family Theaceae, in particular the Species Camellia sinensis (green tea) or their typical ingredients (such as polyphenols or catechins, caffeine, vitamins, sugars, minerals, amino acids, lipids), for the prophylaxis, treatment and / or care of dry skin conditions.

Catechins are a group of compounds that can be understood as hydrogenated flavones or anthocyanidins. The catechins form the basic substance of a number of natural oligomeric or polymeric tanning agents, e.g. B. in tea. They occur together with other phenols in many types of fruit and are involved in the browning of pressure and interfaces (e.g. in apples) catalyzed by phenol oxidases.

The basic body, the "catechin" (catechol, 3,3 ', 4', 5,7-flavanpentaol, 2- (3,4-dihydroxyphenyl) -chroman-3,5,7-triol) is widespread in plants and occurs for example in the catechu. It is due to the structural formula

characterized.

The epicatechin ((2R, 3R) -3,3 ', 4', 5,7-flavanpentaol) is an epimer of catechin and is of the structural formula

characterized.

The objects of the invention are also achieved by cosmetic or dermatological preparations containing plant extracts containing catechins, in particular preparations containing extracts of green tea.

Tea comes exclusively from leaves, leaf buds and delicate stems of the tea bush (Camellia sinensis L.), which are processed using methods such as withering, rolling, fermenting, crushing and drying. Black tea is a fermented tea, oolong tea is a semi-fermented tea, the leaves of which are wilted. Rolls ferment only half of the usual time and then dried. Green tea is an unfermented product, the leaves of which are blanched, rolled and dried while preserving the natural leaf color.

The composition of the ingredients of the tea leaves varies considerably depending on the origin and treatment. On average, black tea contains 18.9% catechins and catechin tannins, 16.6% proteins, 2.7% caffeine, 10.2% other nitrogen compounds, 4.6%> oligosaccharides, 0.6% starch, 11, 9 % Pectin, 7.9% cellulose and 6.1% lignin. Fresh leaves have essentially the same composition, but contain more catechins (26%), less nitrogen compounds (8.7%, with the same caffeine content) and 0.8% inositol. Around 80% of the polyphenol tannins contain catechins (main constituent galloyl - (-) - epigallocatechin).

Surprisingly, it was found that extracts from leaves of the plants of the order Theales with the Theaceae family, in particular the species Camellia spec, especially the tea varieties Camellia sinenis, C. assamica, C. taliensis or C. irrawadiensis, and crosses of these with, for example, Camellia japonica the Increase the synthesis rate of ceramides in human skin in general, but especially the synthesis rate of ceramides 1, 2 and 3 by a multiple.

In addition to the catechins (for example catechin and epicatechin), green tea also contains the bile acid esters of these active compounds, which are likewise active according to the invention.

The invention furthermore relates to the use of catechins or gailensate esters of catechins or aqueous or organic extracts from plants or parts of plants which contain catechins or gailensate esters of catechins, for example the leaves of the Theaceae plant family, in particular the Camellia sinensis species (green tea ) or their typical ingredients (such as polyphenols or catechins, caffeine, vitamins, sugar, minerals, amino acids, lipids), to stimulate sphingolipid synthesis or to strengthen the lipid barrier of human skin.

Skin care products according to the invention advantageously contain 0.0001-20 percent by weight of catechins or gailic acid esters of catechins or of aqueous or organic extracts from plants or parts of plants which contain catechins or gailic acid esters of catechins, preferably polyphenols or catechins from the group (-) Catechin, (+) - catechin, (-) - catechin gallate, (-) - gallocatechin gallate, (+) - epicatechin, (-) - epicatechin, (-) - epicatechin gallate, (-) - epigallocatechin, (- ) -Epigallocatechin gallate.

Cosmetic or dermatological preparations according to the invention preferably contain 0.001-10% by weight of catechins or gailic acid esters of catechins or of aqueous or organic extracts from plants or parts of plants which contain catechins or gailic acid esters of catechins, based on the total composition of the Preparations.

Cosmetic or dermatological preparations according to the invention very particularly preferably contain 0.01-1% by weight of catechins or gailic acid esters of catechins or of aqueous or organic extracts from plants or parts of plants which contain catechins or gailic acid esters of catechins on the overall composition of the preparations. The topical preparations according to the invention can be formulated as liquid, pasty or solid preparations, for example as aqueous or alcoholic solutions, aqueous suspensions, emulsions, ointments, creams, gels, oils, powders or sticks. Depending on the desired formulation, active ingredients can be incorporated into pharmaceutical and cosmetic bases for topical applications, which include, for example, oil components, fat and waxes, emulsifiers, anionic, cationic, ampholytic, zwitterionic and / or nonionic surfactants, and low mono- and polyvalent surfactants Contain alcohols, water, preservatives, buffer substances, thickeners, fragrances, dyes and opacifiers. The active compounds according to the invention can advantageously also be used in transdermal therapeutic systems, in particular cubic systems.

It is advantageous to add additives such as vitamins, coenzymes, substrates and auxiliary factors of lipid metabolism or energy metabolism or other cosmetic or dermatological auxiliaries or active ingredients to the caring topical preparations, for example pyridoxine, pyridoxal, pyridoxamine, uridine, L-serine, weak carboxylic acids, whose pKa value is between 3 and 5.5 (e.g. lactic acid and propionic acid), citric acid, pyruvate and cellular energy transfer agents (e.g. creatine, guanine, guanosine, adenine, adenosine, nicotine, nicotinamide, riboflavin), coenzymes (e.g. coenzyme Q ₁₀ , pantothenic acid, panthenol, lipoic acid), auxiliary factors (e.g. L-camitin), substrates (e.g. hexoses, pentoses, fatty acids), taurocholic acid, lipids (e.g. ceramides, cholesterol, fatty acids, sphinosine, sphingomyelin, glucocerebroside), substrates (e.g. Hexoses, pentoses, fatty acids), glutathione and / or natural moisturizing factors (e.g. amino acids, urea, pyrrolidone carboxylic acid, glycerin).

It is also advantageous to add antioxidants to the preparations according to the invention. The antioxidants are advantageously selected from the group consisting of amino acids (eg glycine, histidine, tyrosine, tryptophan) and their derivatives, imidazoles (eg urocanic acid) and their derivatives, peptides such as D, L-carnosine, D-camosine, L- Carnosine and its derivatives (e.g. anserine), carotenoids, carotenes (e.g. α-carotene, ß-carotene, lycopene) and their derivatives, chlorogenic acid and their derivatives, lipoic acid and their derivatives (e.g. dihydroliponic acid), aurothioglucose, propylthiouracil and other thiols (e.g. Thioredoxin, glutathione, cysteine, cystine, cystamine and their glycosyl, N-acetyl, methyl, ethyl, propyl, amyl, butyl and lauryl, palmitoyl, oleyl, γ-linoleyl, cholesteryl and glyceryl esters) and their salts, dilaurylthiodi- propionate, distearyl thiodipropionate, thiodipropionic acid and their derivatives (esters, ethers, peptides, lipids, nucleotides, nucleosides and salts) as well as sulfoximine compounds (eg buthionine sulfoximines, homocysteine sulfoximine, buthionine sulfones, penta-, hexa-, hexa-, heptathionine sulfoximine dosages) in very low doses (e.g. pmol to μmol / kg), also (metal) chelators (e.g. α-hydroxy fatty acids, palmitic acid, phytic acid, lactoferrin), α-hydroxy acids (e.g. citric acid, lactic acid, malic acid), humic acid, bile acid, bile extracts, bilirubin, Biliverdin, EDTA, EGTA and their derivatives, unsaturated fatty acids and their derivatives (eg γ-linolenic acid, linoleic acid, oleic acid), folic acid and their derivatives, ubiquinone and ubiquinol and their derivatives, vitamin C and derivatives (eg ascorbyl palmitate, Mg-ascorbyl phosphate , Ascorbylacetate), tocopherols and derivatives (eg vitamin E acetate), vitamin A and derivatives (vitamin A palmitate) as well as coniferyl benzoate of the benzoin resin, rut ynoic acid and derivatives thereof, α-glycosyl rutin, ferulic acid, Furfurylidenglucitol, carnosine, droxytoluol Butylhy-, butylhydroxyanisole, Nordihydroguajakharzsäure, Nordihydroguajaretsäu- acid, trihydroxybutyrophenone, uric acid and derivatives thereof, mannose and derivatives thereof, zinc and derivatives thereof (for example ZnO, ZnSO ₄₎ Selenium and its derivatives (eg selenium methionine), stilbenes and their derivatives (eg stilbene oxide, trans-stilbene oxide) and the derivatives suitable according to the invention (salts, esters, ethers, sugars, nucleotides, nucleosides, peptides and lipids) of these active substances.

Cosmetic and dermatological preparations which are in the form of a sunscreen are also favorable. In addition to the active compound combinations according to the invention, these preferably additionally contain at least one UV-A filter substance and / or at least one UV-B filter substance and / or at least one inorganic pigment.

However, it is also advantageous in the sense of the present inventions to produce cosmetic and dermatological preparations whose main purpose is not protection against sunlight, but which nevertheless contain UV protection substances. For example, UV-A or UV-B filter substances are usually incorporated into day creams.

UV protection substances, like antioxidants and, if desired, preservatives, also provide effective protection of the preparations themselves against spoilage. Preparations according to the invention can also advantageously contain substances which absorb UV radiation in the UVB range, the total amount of the filter substances being, for example, 0.1% by weight to 30% by weight, preferably 0.5 to 10% by weight, in particular 1.0 to 6.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparations, in order to provide cosmetic preparations which protect the hair or the skin from the entire range of ultraviolet radiation. They can also serve as a sunscreen for the hair or skin.

If the preparations according to the invention contain UVB filter substances, they can be oil-soluble or water-soluble. Oil-soluble UVB filters which are advantageous according to the invention are, for example:

3-benzylidene camphor derivatives, preferably 3- (4-methylbenzylidene) camphor,

3-benzylidene camphor;

4-aminobenzoic acid derivatives, preferably 4- (dimethylamino) benzoic acid

(2-ethylhexyl) ester, 4- (dimethylamino) benzoic acid amyl ester;

Esters of cinnamic acid, preferably 4-methoxycinnamic acid (2-ethylhexyl) ester, 4-

Isopentyl methoxy cinnamate;

Esters of salicylic acid, preferably salicylic acid (2-ethylhexyl) ester, salicylic acid (4-isopropylbenzyl) ester, salicylic acid homomethyl ester,

Derivatives of benzophenone, preferably 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone,

2-hydroxy-4-methoxy-4'-methylbenzophenone, 2,2'-dihydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone;

Esters of benzalmalonic acid, preferably 4-methoxybenzalmalonic acid di (2-ethylhexyl) ester,

Derivatives of 1,3,5-triazine, preferably 2,4,6-trianilino- (p-carbo-2'-ethyl-1'-hexyloxy) -1,3,5-triazine.

The list of UVB filters mentioned, which can be used in combination with the active compound combinations according to the invention, is of course not intended to be limiting.

It can also be advantageous to formulate preparations according to the invention with UVA filters which have hitherto usually been contained in cosmetic preparations. These substances are preferably derivatives of dibenzoyl methane, in particular 1- (4'-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4'-methoxyphenyl) propane-1, 3-di-one and 1-phenyl- 3- (4'-isopropylphenyl) propane-1,3-dione. The invention therefore also relates to the combinations of the active compounds according to the invention, in particular in the topical preparations, with antioxidants, substances of aerobic cellular energy metabolism and / or UV absorbers, by means of which, for example, the stability and the effect of the preparation can be improved.

The examples of combinable active substances from the specified active substance groups listed above serve to describe the invention, without the intention being restricted to these examples.

In addition, protective formulation forms can be used, the substances according to the invention being encapsulated, for example, in liposomes, micelles, nanospheres, etc. from, for example, hydrogenated amphiphiles, such as, for example, ceramides, fatty acids, sphingomyelin and phosphoglycerides, or in cyclodextrans. Further protection can be achieved by using protective gas (eg N ₂ , CO ₂ ) in the formulation and by using gas-tight packaging forms.

Further auxiliaries and additives can be water-binding substances, thickeners, fillers, perfume, dyes, emulsifiers, active substances such as vitamins, preservatives, water and / or salts.

The groups of substances according to the invention can be incorporated into all cosmetic basics. Basically, however, W / O and O / W and W / O / W emulsions, hydrodispersions and lipodispersions are preferred. Combinations according to the invention can be used particularly advantageously in care products such as O / W creams, W / O creams, O / W lotions, etc.

The lipid phase can advantageously be selected from the following group of substances: mineral oils, mineral waxes

Oils, such as triglycerides of capric or caprylic acid, but preferably castor oil;

Fats, waxes and other natural and synthetic fat bodies, preferably esters of fatty acids with alcohols with a low C number, for example with isopropanol, propylene glycol or glycerol, or esters of fatty alcohols with alkanoic acids with a low C number or with fatty acids; Alkyl benzoates; Silicone oils such as dimethylpolysiloxanes, diethylpolysiloxanes, diphenylpolysiloxanes and mixed forms thereof.

The oil phase of the emulsions, oleogels or hydrodispersions or lipodispersions for the purposes of the present invention is advantageously selected from the group of esters from saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids with a chain length of 3 to 30 carbon atoms and saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols with a chain length of 3 to 30 C atoms, from the group of esters from aromatic carboxylic acids and saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols with a chain length of 3 to 30 C- Atoms. Such ester oils can then advantageously be selected from the group of isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate, isopropyl oleate, n-butyl stearate, n-hexyl laurate, n-decyl oleate, isooctyl stearate, isononyl stearate, isononylisononanoate, 2-ethyl-2-ethylhexyl ethylhexyl Hexyl decyl stearate, 2-octyl dodecyl palmitate, oleyl oleate, olerlerucate, erucyl oleate, erucyl erucate as well as synthetic, semisynthetic and natural mixtures of such esters, eg Jojoba oil.

Furthermore, the oil phase can advantageously be chosen from the group of branched and unbranched hydrocarbons and waxes, the silicone oils, the dialkyl ethers, the group of saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched alcohols, and also the fatty acid triglycerides, especially the triglycerol esters of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids with a chain length of 8 to 24, in particular 12 - 18 carbon atoms. The fatty acid triglycerides can, for example, advantageously be selected from the group of synthetic, semisynthetic and natural oils, e.g. Olive oil, sunflower oil, soybean oil, peanut oil, rapeseed oil, almond oil, palm oil, coconut oil, palm kernel oil and the like.

Any mixtures of such oil and wax components can also be used advantageously for the purposes of the present invention. It may also be advantageous to use waxes, for example cetyl palmitate, as the sole lipid component of the oil phase.

The oil phase is advantageously selected from the group consisting of 2-ethylhexyl isostearate, octyldecanol, isotridecyl isononanoate, isoeicosane, 2-ethylhexyl cocoate, C _{2- 2-} ₅ alkyl benzoate, caprylic capric acid triglyceride, dicaprylyl ether. Particularly advantageous are mixtures of _2- Cι ι ₅ alkyl benzoate and 2-ethylhexyl isostearate, mixtures of C ₁₂ -ιs benzoate and isotridecyl isononanoate and mixtures of Cι _2- ιs benzoate, 2-ethylhexyl isostearate and isotridecyl isononanoate.

Of the hydrocarbons, paraffin oil, squalane and squalene can be used advantageously for the purposes of the present invention.

The oil phase can advantageously also contain cyclic or linear silicone oils or consist entirely of such oils, although it is preferred to use an additional content of other oil phase components in addition to the silicone oil or the silicone oils.

Cyclomethicone (octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane) is advantageously used as the silicone oil to be used according to the invention. However, other silicone oils can also be used advantageously for the purposes of the present invention, for example hexamethylcyclotrisiloxane, polydimethylsiloxane, poly (methylphenylsiloxane).

Mixtures of cyclomethicone and isotridecyl isononanoate, cyclomethicone and 2-ethylhexyl isostearate are also particularly advantageous.

The aqueous phase of the preparations according to the invention optionally advantageously contains

Alcohols, diols or polyols of low C number, and their ethers, preferably ethanol, isopropanol, propylene glycol, glycerin, ethylene glycol, ethylene glycol monoethyl or monobutyl ether, propylene glycol monomethyl, monoethyl or monobutyl ether, diethylene glycol monomethyl or monoethyl ethers and analog products, furthermore alcohols with a low C number, e.g. ethanol, isopropanol, 1, 2-propanediol, glycerol and in particular one or more thickeners, which one or more can advantageously be selected from the group consisting of silicon dioxide, aluminum silicates, polysaccharides and their derivatives , for example hyaluronic acid, xanthan gum, hydroxypropylmethyl cellulose, particularly advantageously from the group of polyacrylates, preferably a polyacrylate from the group of so-called carbopoles, for example carbopoles of types 980, 981, 1382, 2984, 5984, each individually or in combination. In the technical sense, gels are understood to mean: Relatively dimensionally stable, easily deformable disperse systems composed of at least two components, which as a rule consist of a - usually solid - colloidally divided substance made up of long-chain molecular groups (e.g. gelatin, silica, polysaccharides) as a scaffold and a liquid dispersant (e.g. water) exist. The colloidally divided substance is often referred to as a thickening or gelling agent. It forms a spatial network in the dispersion medium, whereby individual colloidal particles can be more or less firmly linked to one another via electrostatic interaction. The dispersant which surrounds the network is distinguished by electrostatic affinity for the gelling agent, ie a predominantly polar (in particular: hydrophilic) gelling agent preferably gels a polar dispersing agent (in particular: water), whereas a predominantly non-polar gelling agent preferably gels non-polar dispersing agent.

Strong electrostatic interactions, which are realized, for example, in hydrogen bonds between the gelling agent and the dispersing agent, but also between the dispersing agent molecules, can also lead to strong crosslinking of the dispersing agent. Hydrogels can consist of almost 100% water (in addition to, for example, about 0.2-1.0% of a gelling agent) and have a firm consistency. The water content is in ice-like structural elements, so that gels therefore do justice to their name origin [from Latin "gelatum" = "frozen" via the alchemical expression "gelatina" (16th century) for nhdt. "Gelatin"].

Gels according to the invention usually contain low C number alcohols, e.g. Ethanol, isopropanol, 1, 2-propanediol, glycerol and water in the presence of a thickening agent which is preferably silicon dioxide or an aluminum silicate in the case of oily-alcoholic gels, and is preferably a polyacrylate in the case of aqueous-alcoholic or alcoholic gels.

Preparations according to the invention can also be designed, for example, as foam and shower baths, solid and liquid soaps or so-called "syndets" (synthetic detergents), shampoos, hand-washing pastes, intimate detergents, special cleaning agents for small children and the like. Preparations according to the invention can, if appropriate, advantageously be distinguished by a content of surfactants. Surfactants are amphiphilic substances that can dissolve organic, non-polar substances in water. Due to their specific molecular structure with at least one hydrophilic and one hydrophobic part of the molecule, they ensure a reduction in the surface tension of the water, wetting of the skin, easier removal and removal of dirt, easy rinsing and - if desired - foam regulation.

The hydrophilic parts of a surfactant molecule are mostly polar functional groups, for example -COO ^" , -OSO ₃ ^2" , -SO ₃ ^" , while the hydrophobic parts generally represent non-polar hydrocarbon residues. Surfactants are generally of type and charge of the hydrophilic part of the molecule. There are four groups:

Anionic surfactants,

Cationic surfactants,

• amphoteric surfactants and

• nonionic surfactants.

Anionic surfactants generally have carboxylate, sulfate or sulfonate groups as functional groups. In an aqueous solution they form negatively charged organic ions in an acidic or neutral environment. Cationic surfactants are characterized almost exclusively by the presence of a quaternary ammonium group. In aqueous solution they form positively charged organic ions in an acidic or neutral environment. Amphoteric surfactants contain both anionic and cationic groups and accordingly behave like anionic or cationic surfactants in aqueous solution depending on the pH. They have a positive charge in a strongly acidic environment and a negative charge in an alkaline environment. In the neutral pH range, however, they are zwitterionic, as the following example should illustrate:

RNH ₂ ⁺ CH ₂ CH ₂ COOH X ^" (at pH = 2) X ^" = any anion, eg CI ^"

RNH ₂ ⁺ CH ₂ CH ₂ COO ^" (at pH = 7)

RNHCH ₂ CH ₂ COO ^" B ⁺ (at pH = 12) B ⁺ = any cation, eg Na ⁺

Polyether chains are typical of non-ionic surfactants. Non-ionic surfactants do not form ions in an aqueous medium. A. Anionic surfactants

Anionic surfactants to be used advantageously

Acylamino acids (and their salts), such as

1. acylglutamates, for example sodium acylglutamate, di-TEA-palmitoylaspartate and sodium caprylic / capric glutamate,

2. acyl peptides, for example palmitoyl-hydrolyzed milk protein, sodium cocoyl-hydrolyzed soy protein and sodium / potassium cocoyl-hydrolyzed collagen,

3. Sarcosinates, for example myristoyl sarcosin, TEA-lauroyl sarcosinate, sodium lauroyl sarcosinate and sodium cocoyl sarcosinate,

4. taurates, for example sodium lauroyl taurate and sodium methyl cocoyl taurate,

5. Acyl lactylates, lauroyl lactylate, caproyl octylate

6. Alaninate carboxylic acids and derivatives such as

1. carboxylic acids, for example lauric acid, aluminum stearate, magnesium alkanolate and zinc undecylenate,

2. ester carboxylic acids, for example calcium stearoyl lactylate, laureth-6 citrate and sodium PEG-4 lauramide carboxylate,

3. ether carboxylic acids, for example sodium laureth-13 carboxylate and sodium PEG-6 cocamide carboxylate,

Phosphoric acid esters and salts, such as, for example, DEA-oleth-10-phosphate and di-laureth-4 phosphate,

Sulfonic acids and salts such as

1. acyl isethionates, e.g. Sodium / ammonium cocoyl isethionate,

2. alkylarylsulfonates,

3. alkyl sulfonates, for example sodium cocosmonoglyceride sulfate, sodium Cι. ₂ . ₁ olefin sulfonate, sodium lauryl sulfoacetate and magnesium PEG-3 cocamide sulfate,

4. Sulfosuccinates, for example dioctyl sodium sulfosuccinate, disodium laureth sulfosuccinate, disodium lauryl sulfosuccinate and disodium undecylenamido MEA sulfosuccinate

as well as sulfuric acid esters, such as 1. Alkyl ether sulfate, for example sodium, ammonium, magnesium, MIPA, Tl-PA laureth sulfate, sodium myreth sulfate and sodium C ₁₂ . ₁₃ pareth sulfate,

2. Alkyl sulfates, for example sodium, ammonium and TEA lauryl sulfate.

B. Cationic surfactants

Cationic surfactants which may be used advantageously are

1. alkylamines,

2. alkylimidazoles,

3. Ethoxylated amines and

4. Quaternary surfactants.

5. Esterquats

Quaternary surfactants contain at least one N atom that is covalently linked to 4 alkyl or aryl groups. Regardless of the pH value, this leads to a positive charge. Alkyl betaine, alkyl amidopropyl betaine and alkyl amidopropyl hydroxysulfain are advantageous. The cationic surfactants used in the invention can be also preferably selected from the group of quaternary ammonium compounds, especially benzyltrialkylammonium chlorides or bromides, for example benzyldimethylstearylammonium chloride, also alkyltrialkylammonium, for example cetyltrimethylammonium chloride or bromide, droxyethylammoniumchloride Alkyldimethylhy- or bromides, dialkyldimethylammonium chlorides or - bromides, alkylamidoethyltrimethylammonium , Alkylpyridinium salts, for example lauryl or cetylpyrimidinium chloride, imidazoline derivatives and compounds with a cationic character such as amine oxides, for example alkyldimethylamine oxides or alkylaminoethyldimethylamine oxides. Cetyltrimethylammonium salts are particularly advantageous.

C. Amphoteric surfactants

Amphoteric surfactants to be used advantageously

1. acyl- / dialkylethylenediamine, for example sodium acylamphoacetate, disodium acylamphodipropionate, disodium alkylamphodiacetate, sodium acylamphohydroxypropylsulfonate, disodium acylamphodiacetate and sodium acylamphopropionate,

2. N-alkylamino acids, for example aminopropylalkylglutamide, alkylaminopropionic acid, sodium alkylimidodipropionate and lauroamphocarboxyglycinate.

D. Non-ionic surfactants

Non-ionic surfactants to be used advantageously 1. alcohols,

2. alkanolamides, such as cocamides MEA / DEA / MIPA,

3. amine oxides, such as cocoamidopropylamine oxide,

4. esters which are formed by esterification of carboxylic acids with ethylene oxide, glycerol, sorbitol or other alcohols,

5. ethers, for example ethoxylated / propoxylated alcohols, ethoxylated / propoxylated esters, ethoxylated / propoxylated glycerol esters, ethoxylated / propoxylated cholesterols, ethoxylated / propoxylated triglyceride esters, ethoxylated propoxylated lanolin, ethoxylated / propoxylated polysiloxanes, propoxylated POE ethers and Lauryl glucoside, decyl glycoside and cocoglycoside.

6. sucrose esters, ether

7 polyglycerol esters, diglycerol esters, monoglycerol esters 8. methyl glucose esters, esters of hydroxy acids

The following examples are intended to illustrate the present invention. Unless otherwise stated, quantities, percentages or parts relate to the weight, in particular to the total weight of the preparations or the respective mixture.

example 1

W / O type skin cream

% By weight

Vaseline DAB 9 13.0

Glycerin DAB 9 6.30

Paraffin oil 40.80

Cetylstearyl alcohol / PEG-40 castor oil / sodium cetyi 2.50 stearyl sulfate

(Eutanol® G, Henkel KGaA)

Green tea extract 3.00

Perfume, preservatives, dyes q.s.

Water ad 100.00

The green tea extract is stirred into the water phase. The fat phase is added to the 75 ° C warm water phase, stirred and homogenized until a uniform cream is obtained.

Example 2

W / O type skin cream

% By weight

PEG-1 glyceryl oleostearate + paraffin wax 8.00

Vaseline DAB 2.80

Paraffin wax / paraffin 1, 80

Paraffin oil 12.00

Ceresin 2.20

Octyldodecanol 10.00

Propylene glycol 1, 00

Glycerin 1.00

Magnesium sulfate 0.70

Perfume, preservatives, dyes q.s.

Water VES ad 100.00

The green tea extract is stirred into the water phase. The fat phase is added to the 75 ° C warm water phase, stirred and homogenized until a uniform cream is obtained. Example 3

O / W type skin cream

% By weight

Octyldodecanol 9.30

(Emulgade ® F, Henkel KGaA)

Cetearyl alcohol / PEG-40 paraffin oil 7.80

Castor oil / sodium cetearyl sulfate 3.70

(Eutanol ® G, Henkel KGaA)

(-) - Epigallocatechin Gallat 1.00

Glycerin DAB 9 4.50

Perfume, preservatives, dyes q.s.

Water VES ad 100.00

(-) - Epigallocatechin Gallat is dissolved in the water phase. The fat phase is added to the 75 ° C warm water phase, stirred and homogenized until a uniform cream is obtained.

Example 4

O / W lotion

% By weight

Steareth-2 3.00

Steareth-21 2.00

Cetylstearyl alcohol / TEG-40 castor oil / sodium cetyl 2.50 stearyl sulfate

(Eutanol ® G, Henkel KGaA)

Paraffin oil 15.00

Propylene glycol 1, 00

Glycerin 3.00

(-) - Catechin 1, 20

Perfume, preservatives, dyes q.s.

Water VES ad 100.00

(-) - Catechin is dissolved in the water phase. The fat phase is then added to the 75 ° C warm water phase, stirred and homogenized until a uniform light yellow lotion has formed. Example 5

O / W lotion

% By weight octyldodecanol 5.60

(Emulgade F, Henkel KGaA)

Cetyl stearyl alcohol / TEG-40 castor oil / sodium cetyl 8.90 stearyl sulfate

(Eutanol ® G, Henkel KGaA)

Cetearyl isononanoate 7.50

(Cetiol® 5N, Henkel KGaA)

Paraffin oil 10.50

(-) - Gallocatechin gallate 5.00

Glycerin DAB 9 4.70

Perfume, preservatives, dyes q.s.

Water VES ad 100.00

(-) - Gallocatechin Gallat is dissolved in the water phase, the fat phase is then added to the 75 ° C warm water phase, stirred and homogenized until a uniform emulsion has formed.

Example 6

Skin oil

% By weight glyceryl tricaprylate 21.00

(Miglyol ® 812, Dynamite Nobel)

Hexyl laurate 20.00

(Cetiol ® A, Henkel KGaA)

Octyl stearate 20.00

(Cetiol® 886, Henkel KGaA

Paraffin oil 36.00

Green tea extract 3.00

The components are stirred at 25 ° C until a uniform, clear mixture is obtained.

Claims

Claims:

1. Use of catechins or gailensate esters of catechins or aqueous or organic extracts from plants or parts of plants which contain catechins or gailensate esters of catechins, for example the leaves of the Theaceae plant family, in particular the Camellia sinensis species (green tea) or the like typical ingredients (such as polyphenols or catechins, caffeine, vitamins, sugar, minerals, amino acids, lipids), for the prophylaxis, treatment and / or care of dry skin conditions.

2. Use of catechins or gailensate esters of catechins or aqueous or organic extracts from plants or parts of plants which contain catechins or gailensate esters of catechins, for example the leaves of the Theaceae plant family, in particular the Camellia sinensis species (green tea) or the like typical ingredients (such as polyphenols or catechins, caffeine, vitamins, sugar, minerals, amino acids, lipids), to stimulate sphingolipid synthesis or to strengthen the lipid barrier of human skin.

3. Use according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that the one or more catechins is selected or are selected from the group (-) - catechin, (+) - catechin, (-) - catechin gallate, (-) - gallocatechin gallate, (+) - epicatechin, (-) - epicatechin, (-) - epica-techin gallate, (-) - epigallocatechin, (-) - epigallocatechin gallate.

4. Use according to claim 1 or 2, in cosmetic or dermatological preparations containing herbal extracts containing catechins, in particular those preparations which contain extracts of green tea.