WO1998040074A1

WO1998040074A1 - Cosmetic or dermatological use of 7-hydroxylated steroids

Info

Publication number: WO1998040074A1
Application number: PCT/FR1998/000457
Authority: WO
Inventors: Fernand Joseph Dray
Original assignee: Vitasterol (S.A.R.L.)
Priority date: 1997-03-10
Filing date: 1998-03-06
Publication date: 1998-09-17
Also published as: EP0973524B1; AU6840298A; US20010041696A1; US20020165214A1; US6620803B2; EP0973524A1; FR2760362B1; DE69807454D1; JP2001515488A; FR2760362A1; US6407084B2; ES2183341T3; DE69807454T2

Abstract

The invention concerns the use of a 7-hydroxylated steroid in a composition for preventing or treating skin-ageing effects and/or UV radiation effects on the skin. The invention also concerns a cosmetic treatment for skin-ageing effects and/or UV radiation effects on the skin.

Description

COSMETIC OR DERMATOLOGICAL USE OF 7-HYDROXYLATED STEROIDS.

The present invention relates to the use of 7-hydroxylated steroids for the preparation of cosmetic or dermatological compositions for preventing and / or treating the cutaneous effects of aging and of the action of ultraviolet radiation.

The formation of steroid hormones, their interrelationships and their functions have been widely described in the prior art. The functions of pregnenolone (PREG) and dehydroepiandrosterone (DHEA) as well as certain of their derivatives are in particular recalled in the PCT patent application published under the number WO 94/08588.

DHEA and its sulfate derivative (S-DHEA) circulate in significant quantities in adult men, but its level decreases with age (Orentreich & coll., J ^" . Clin. Endocr. Me tab. 5_9_: 551-555 , 1984). It has thus been proposed, for example in the French patent application published under the number 2 729 854 or the corresponding European patent application published under the number 723 775, to use S-DHEA in a cosmetic composition . for topical application for the treatment of certain signs of aging multiple effects of DHEA have been reported, but some oppose processes and diseases associated with aging (Watson et al, Drug aging S _9:.. 274-291 , 1996).

Despite numerous experiments, none of the explanations advanced for the effects of DHEA could be fully proven (Kalimi & al., Molec. Cell. Biochem. 131: 99-104, 1994), and the therapeutic use of DHEA has revealed unwanted side effects, particularly in women, as a potential precursor of androgen hormones. It has now been shown that the 7-hydroxylated derivatives of PREG and DHEA are formed by an enzymatic system present in multiple tissues and organs, including the skin, where they promote the mechanisms linked to immunity (Morfin & Courchay J. Steroid Biochem Molec Biol _{5_0:....} 91-100, 1994). Like circulating DHEA levels, the activity of these hydroxylating enzymes decreases with age (Doostzadeh & Morfin, Steroi ds 6_1: 613-620, 1996). The Applicant is therefore interested in the effects of 7-hydroxylated steroids and their derivatives on the cells which constitute human skin and which are affected during aging or after UV irradiation. The research carried out by the Applicant has made it possible to demonstrate that the effects of the glucocorticoids leading to cell apoptosis are obliterated by the 7-hydroxyl steroids and that their action on the skin cells results in beneficial and protective effects. Surprisingly, the results obtained with the compounds of the invention do not correspond to those conventionally expected with steroid hormones. Indeed, the process of hydroxylation carried out by the body on PREG or DHEA is irreversible, and therefore the classic steroid hormones can no longer be produced from 7-hydroxyl derivatives.

Consequently, the use of 7-hydroxysteroids for cosmetic purposes to treat or prevent the cutaneous effects of aging has remarkable advantages compared to the steroids of the cosmetic compositions of the prior art.

Recent work on skin modifications caused by age or UV rays and their medical treatment specifically consider retinoic acid, α-hydroxy acids and DHEA, but do not mention the 7- hydroxysteroids (Gilchrest, Brit. J. Dermatol. 135: 867-875, 1996; Watson & al., Drugs & Aging 9_: 274-291, 1996). The production of 7-hydroxylated derivatives of DHEA has been known for a long time in the tissues of the human fetus (Sulcova & al., Endocr. Experiment. 2_: 167-172,

1968), in the amniotic epithelium (Sulcova & coll., J. Steroid Biochem. 7: 101-104, 1976), the human liver (Starka, Sond. Zeit. Natur. 1_7_: 1-2, 1965), human testes and epididymis (Sulcova & Starka, Experiment ia 28: 1361-1362, 1972) and in human pre-adipocytes (Khalil

& coll. J. Steroid Biochem. Molec. Biol. 46_: 585-594, 1993). Furthermore, circulating levels of 7α-hydroxy-DHEA have been measured in premenopausal women at 200-300 pg / ml (Skinner & coll. Steroids 3_0: 315-330, 1977) and 3 β, 7α-dihydroxy- 5α -andros tan-17-one (7α-hydroxy-isoandrosterone) has been characterized in human urine (Jacolot & coll. J. Steroid Biochem. 14: 663-669, 1981). More recently, the phenomenon of 7-hydroxylation has been extended to other steroids which have, in common with DHEA, a 3β-hydroxylated structure. it's about the

PREG (Akwa & coll. Biochem. J. 288: 959-964, 1992; Morfin & Courchay J ^" . Steroid Biochem. Molec. Biol. 5_0_: 91-100, 1994), 5α-androstane-3β, 17β-diol (Morfin & al. Biochemistry 5_9_: 637-644, 1977; Morfin & al. J. Steroid Biochem. 12 .: 629-632, 1980), 3β-hydroxy-5α-androstan-17-one (Akwa & al. Biochem. J. 288: 959-964, 1992) and 3β-hydroxy-5α-pregnan-20-one (Stromstedt & coll. Molec. Pharmacol. 44: 1077-1083, 1993).

Some studies on 7-hydroxyl steroids have proven that they lack their own hormonal effects both androgenic and oestrogenic or on the secretion of pituitary hormones (Celotti & al. J. Steroid Biochem. 18 .: 397-401, 1983 ; Sunde & coll. J ^" . Steroid Biochem. 16 .: 483-488, 1982). All of these results therefore led to consider 7-hydroxylation steroids as a terminal process of hormonal inactivation leading to urinary and biliary excretion of the 7-hydroxylated steroids produced (Ofner & coll. J ^" . Steroid

Biochem. 11: 1367-1379, 1979; Stromstedt & coll. Mol ec. Pharmacol. 44 .: 1077-1083, 1993; Khalil & coll. J ^" . Steroid

Biochem. Molec. Biol. _. 48: 545-552, 1994). It is only very recently that the multiple effects observed with DHEA

(Watson et al Drug & Aging _9:.. 274-291, 1996) could be explained in part by the immunostimulatory properties of its 7-hydroxyl derivatives (Morfin & Courchay J. Steroid

Biochem. Molec. Biol. 5_Ç>: 91-100, 1994; Padgett & Loria J.

I munol. 153: 1544-1552, 1994; Loria & coll. J. Endocrinol.

150: S209-S220, 1996). The anti-glucocorticoid properties presented by 7α- and 7β-hydroxy-DHEA have been proven and extended to other 7-hydroxy steroids such as those described in the PCT patent applications published under the numbers WO 93/20687 and WO 94/08588 for their role in triggering immune processes.

It therefore appears that DHEA and the production of its 7-hydroxyl derivatives decrease with age while that of glucocorticoids does not vary. During aging, the intake of hormonal steroids in the skin is therefore modified with a predominance of glucocorticoids, the promoting effects of skin aging are known.

Consequently, a localized supply of 7-hydroxylated steroids endowed with a particular but natural antiglucocorticoid effect makes it possible to bring the treated skin into its steroid context from a young age. However, these properties have never been described or suggested in the prior art. Thus, the PCT patent application published under the number WO 94/08588 does not describe or teach any cosmetic or dermatological application of derivatives of steroid hormones. Furthermore, this patent application relates to steroid derivatives in which the substitutions in positions 3 and 7 indicated in formula (I) below are either hydroxyls or ester functions of 1 to 10 carbon atoms.

The European patent application published under the number 415 766 describes the use of retinoid agents to combat skin atrophy by an antiglucocorticoid mechanism. However, there is no structural relationship between the retinoids (vitamin A and its derivatives) and steroids. European patent application published under number 189 738 describes the use of dehydroepiandrosterone (DHEA) and its ester derivatives to treat dry skin, but these compounds are different from the steroids which are the subject of the present invention. The European patent application published under the number 723 775 contemplates the use of DHEA sulfate in cosmetic and dermatological compositions and suggests the addition in these compositions of steroid hormones other than DHEA sulfate, such as androgens, estrogens , progestagens. However, as indicated previously, these steroids are devoid of hormonal action, and their use is intended only to offset the undesirable hormonal effects of DHEA and DHEA sulfate. In addition, DHEA sulfate has no structural relationship with the steroids which are the subject of the present invention.

The invention therefore relates to the use, in a cosmetic or dermatological composition with topical application intended to prevent or treat the manifestations of skin aging and / or the effects of UV irradiation on the skin, of a compound 7α or 7β substituted with DHEA or PREG, reduced or not in position 5, and therefore corresponding to the formula: R-

or to the formula

in which :

R ^ is chosen from: a hydrogen atom, the organic acid ester functions from 1 to 24 carbon atoms, sulfuric ester or phosphoric ester, or carbon ether from 1 to 24 carbon atoms comprising zero or more atoms nitrogen, ethers of carbohydrates of 3 to 100 carbon atoms and their derivatives, including those with or without one or more nitrogen atoms.

R2 is chosen from: a hydrogen atom or a fatty acid ester function of 1 to 24 carbon atoms. R3 is chosen from: a hydrogen atom, a group -OH, the groups of formulas: -CO-R4, -CHOH-R4, = CH-CH3, = COH-CH3, -CHR4-CH3, = 0, in which R4 is an alkyl group comprising from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, preferably methyl, substituted or unsubstituted. The compounds of the invention are substituted 7α or 7β derivatives of DHEA or of PREG and more particularly still 7α or 7β-hydroxylated derivatives reduced or not in position 5. A group of preferred compounds of the invention are the 7α-hydroxylated derivatives, that is to say those in which the oxygen carried in position 7 is axial (7α) and the substituent R2 is hydrogen. Another group of preferred compounds of the invention are those where Ri is hydrogen, in particular 7α-hydroxy-DHEA and 7α-hydroxy-isoandrosterone where R3 is a ketone (= 0).

It should be noted that the derivatives of the invention in which R 1 is an organic acid have an increased liposolubility which offers the advantage of improving the retention of these compounds in the cells, in particular at the level of the membranes and consequently of prolonging their activity and their effect on skin cells. Among these derivatives, preference is given to those in which

Ri is a palmitate, an oleate or a ferulate, and in particular 3β-palmitoyl-7ξ-hydroxy-DHEA, 3β-oleyl-7ξ-hydroxy-DHEA and 3β-feruloyl-7ξ-hydroxy-DHEA.

The cosmetic or dermatological compositions of the invention can comprise one or more steroid derivatives according to the invention, as well as other compounds known for their cosmetic or dermatological property such as hormones, and, of course, the adjuvants or vehicles conventionally used in these areas.

For the use of a steroid derivative of the invention in a cosmetic composition intended to compensate, treat and / or prevent the cutaneous effects of aging and / or the effects of UV irradiation on the skin, said derivative is administered to a dose of between 0.05 and 10 mg per application and per day and preferably between 0.05 and 5 mg per application and per day.

The effect of restoring or preventing skin aging in people of a certain age as well as protective effects against UV is applicable for any treatment aimed at restoring skin tone, firming the skin and erasing wrinkles.

By their nature, the derivatives of the invention can be used in very various galenical forms for their percutaneous administration. They may be forms resulting from the addition to the derivatives of the invention of compounds acceptable in cosmetics and making it possible to produce creams, pastes, gels, lotions, "water in oil" or "emulsions". oil in water "as well as forms composed of liposomes of single or mixed micelles or other penetration promoters such as lysophospholipids, cyclodextrins, polyethylene glycol, surfactants, alcohols, fatty acids, vegetable oils. This list is not exhaustive and any other presentation known to man can be envisaged as soon as it is adapted to the steroid derivatives of the invention which have the characteristic of being both water-soluble and liposoluble. Thus, the cosmetic or dermatological compositions of the invention can be in the form of creams, lotions, gels and ointments or any other form generally used for topical applications.

Other advantages and characteristics of the invention will appear on reading the examples which follow, given without implied limitation, and showing the performances obtained by the derivatives of the invention as antiapoptotic agents, anti-free radicals and promoters of the proliferation of skin cells. human.

Example 1: Ef f of 3 β, l - di hydr o xy - 5 - androstene- 17 -one (7α-hvdroxy-DHEA) and 3 β, 7α-dihvdroxy- 5α- andros tane- 17 - one (7α -hvdroxy- ISOA) on cellular apoptosis induced by glucocorticoids. The thymus of 4-week-old C57BL / 6 mice is taken. The culture of the thymocytes is carried out for 6 hours in RPMI 1640 medium and in the presence or in the absence of the steroid tested. Apoptosis (DNA fragmentation) is measured by flow cytometry after labeling with propidium iodide. The apoptotic phenomenon is controlled by electrophoresis of the DNA revealed by ethidium bromide according to the conventional technique (observation of scales of 200 base pairs). The results reported in Table I below were obtained:

Table I

I t appears from these esii that the 7 oc-hydroxysteroids tested have an ef f and antiapoptotic opposing that of dexamethasone on T cells

_5 of mice. Their effect at 10 M is greater than that of their precursor steroid (DHEA or dehydroepiandrosterone or 3β-hydroxy-5-androstene-17-one).

Example 2: Effects of 3 β, 7 α-dihvdroxy-5 - androstene- 17 -one (7 -hvdroxy-DHEA) on the viability of human keratinocytes in culture.

Human keratinocytes are obtained from surgical pieces and are cultured in a monolayer until pre-influence. 7α-hydroxy-DHEA is administered to these cultures at various concentrations in ethanolic solution (10%), each concentration being tested in eightfold. Controls are carried out with ethanol alone (10%). After 24 hours, the viability of the keratinocytes is measured by MTT test (3- (4, 5-dimethyl thiazol-2-yl) -2, 5 diphenyl tetrazolium bromide) where the mitochondrial succinate dehydrogenase transforms MTT into blue crystals of formazan soluble in DMSO (Mosmann, J ^" . Immunol. Methods 555: 55-63, 1983). The results of the tests on the viability of keranocytes are reported in Table II below. The cell viability is calculated according to the formula:

% viability - DO540 product x IOO / DO540 control.

Any value greater than 100 indicates a product promoting cell viability.

Table II

These results show that 7α-hydroxy-DHEA significantly increases the viability of human keratinocytes at concentrations between 10 M and 10 M, the maximum

(increases between 54% and 39% of viability) being obtained between 5.10 M and 10 M. Furthermore, no cytotoxicity was observed. Other comparative tests demonstrated that the precursor DHEA had no effect (100 ± 5).

Example 3: Effects of 3β, 7α-dihvdroxy-5-androstene-17-one (7 -hvdroxy-DHEA) on the proliferation of human fibroblasts in culture.

The cultures of human fibroblasts (32-year-old woman) are seeded in 24-well plates at a rate of 50,000 cells / well in the standard culture medium (DMEM, gentamycin, amphotericin B, penicillin, L-glutamine, 10% FCS). The tests are carried out on 4 series of 3 wells. After 24 h, the fibroblasts adhere to the support and 3 series are treated with 7α-hydroxy-DHEA at concentrations of 10 M, 5.10 M and 10 M. The fourth series contains only the vector (ethanol). The media are renewed daily, and at 96 h (72 h of contact of the 7-hydroxy-DHEA under test), the fibroblasts are counted on a Malassez cell in the presence of trypan blue. The results of the effects on the proliferation of fibroblasts are reported in Table III below.

Table III

These results demonstrate that, under experimental conditions, the treatment of fibroblasts by

7-hydroxy-DHEA at 10 ^_7 M, 10 ^{~ 6} M and 5.10 ^{~ 6} M increases cell proliferation respectively by 21%, 41% and 36% compared to the untreated control fibroblasts. Example 4 Anti-free radical effect of 3β, 7α-dihydroxy-5-androstene-17-one (7α-hvdroxy-DHEA) on a suspension of human keratinocytes.

Keratinocytes from a healthy donor (25-year-old woman) are cultured up to the subconfluent stage in a specific medium (KGM) for the proliferation of keratinocytes. The suspensions obtained are distributed in triplicate in 4 series, 3 of which are irradiated for 30 min with a lamp emitting UVA in order to activate the production of free radicals. Among the three irradiated series, one contains the vitamins C + E (0.7%) and serves as a protective reference, one contains the 7α-hydroxy-DHEA

10 M and the last serves as a control. Table IV below reports the measurement of anti-radicallary effects. Free radicals produced generate lipid peroxides which are assayed by chemiluminescence (i Belgh et al J. Biolum Chemilum _2:.... 113-119, 1982). The efficacy of 7α-hydroxy-DHEA is calculated on the basis of the non-irradiated controls and the protection reference. Table IV

Under the conditions of this study, the in vi tro anti-free radical efficacy of 7α-hydroxy-DHEA at 10

is 90%. 7α-hydroxy-DHEA can be considered a good anti-free radical product.

Claims

1) Use in a composition for preventing or treating the manifestations of skin aging and / or the effects of UV irradiation on the skin, of a compound corresponding to the formula:

or to the formula

in which :

R is chosen from: a hydrogen atom, the organic acid ester functions from 1 to 24 carbon atoms, sulfuric ester or phosphoric ester, or carbon ether from 1 to 24 carbon atoms comprising zero or more nitrogen atoms , carbohydrate ethers of 3 to 100 carbon atoms and their derivatives with or without one or more nitrogen atoms.

R2 is chosen from: a hydrogen atom or a fatty acid ester function of 1 to 24 carbon atoms.

R3 is chosen from: a hydrogen atom, a group -OH, the groups of formulas: -CO-R4, -CHOH-R4, = CH-CH3, = COH-CH3, -CHR4-CH3, = 0, in which R4 is a alkyl group comprising from 1 to 10 substituted or unsubstituted carbon atoms.

2) Use of a compound of formulas (I) or (II), according to claim 1, in which R2 and / or Ri is a hydrogen atom.

3) Use of a compound of formulas (I) or (II), according to one of claims 1 or 2, in which R3 is a ketone.

4) Use of a compound of formulas (I) or (II), according to any one of claims 1 to 3, in which Ri is a fatty acid ester function chosen from an oleate, a palmitate, a ferulate.

5) Use according to claim 2, characterized in that the compound of formula (I) or (II) is 7α-hydroxy-DHEA.

6) Use according to claim 3, characterized in that the compound of formula (I) or (II) is 7α-hydroxy-isoandrosterone.

7) Use according to claim 4, characterized in that the compound of formula (I) or (II) is chosen from 3β-palmitoyl-7ξ-hydroxy-DHEA, 3β- oleyl-7ξ-hydroxy-DHEA and 3β -feruloyl-7ξ-hydroxy-DHEA.

8) Use according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the composition contains at least one compound of formula (I) or (II) associated with one or more adjuvants or vehicles used in cosmetology or dermatology. 9) Use according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the composition contains between 0.05 and 10 mg and preferably between 0.05 and 5 mg of a compound of formula (I) or (II).

10) Method for cosmetic treatment of the manifestations of skin aging and / or of the effects of UV irradiation on the skin, comprising the application to the skin of a cosmetic composition comprising at least one compound corresponding to the formula:

or to the formula

in which :

Ri is chosen from: a hydrogen atom, the organic acid ester functions from 1 to 24 carbon atoms, sulfuric ester or phosphoric ester, or carbon ether from 1 to 24 carbon atoms comprising zero or more nitrogen atoms , carbohydrate ethers of 3 to 100 carbon atoms and their derivatives with or without one or more nitrogen atoms.

R2 is chosen from: a hydrogen atom or a fatty acid ester function from 1 to 24 carbon atoms.

R3 is chosen from: a hydrogen atom, a group -OH, the groups of formulas: -CO-R4, -CHOH-R4, = CH-CH3, = COH-CH3, -CHR4-CH3, = 0, in which R4 is an alkyl group comprising from 1 to 10 substituted or unsubstituted carbon atoms.

11) Method according to claim 10, characterized in that it comprises the application to the skin of a dose of said composition of between 0.05 and 10 mg per application and per day and preferably between 0.05 and 5 mg per application per day.