WO1986000222A1

WO1986000222A1 - Preparation for hair and nail care and production method thereof

Info

Publication number: WO1986000222A1
Application number: PCT/HU1985/000038
Authority: WO
Inventors: István LACZKÓ; Eszter KOVÁCS; Erzsébet BASA; Jánosné CSELOVSZKY; Péter BANETH; Miklósné GÁBOR; Lászlóné FÜLÖP; Györgyné VARRÓ; Béla HORVÁTH
Original assignee: Universal Vegyipari Szövetkezet; Élelmiszeripari Fo^"Iskola
Priority date: 1984-06-19
Filing date: 1985-06-19
Publication date: 1986-01-16
Also published as: HU193289B; EP0187147A1

Abstract

Preparation for hair and nail care, particularly in the form of shampoos, hair rinsers, hair conditioners and hair lotions, respectively in the form of nail polish, and production method thereof. The preparation contains a quantity varying between at least 0.3 and at the most 6% by weight of blood plasma extract obtained preferably by ultrafiltration from slaughter blood and having a low salt contents. For the production of the different forms of the preparation according to the present invention, the blood plasma extract is soaked in water or an aqueous emulsion before it is mixed in the soaked state with other ingredients.

Description

PREPARATION FOR HAIR AND NAIL CARE AND METHOD FOR ITS

PRODUCTION The invention relates to a preparation for hair and nail care, in particular in the form of a shampoo, hair rinse, hair conditioning agent and hair tonic or in the form of nail polish, and a process for its preparation.

The hair care products can be divided into several groups according to their type of application and their intended use. The main groups are hair shampoos, hair rinses, hair conditioning agents and the different hair lotions. Depending on the character of the hair to be treated, there are preparations for dry, normal and oily hair, preparations for dandruff, etc.

The primary task of hair shampoos is to clean hair and scalp. For this purpose, they contain surface-active substances, primarily surfactants. The surface-active substances have a drying effect on the hair and scalp. To compensate for the drying effect and to care for the hair and scalp, the shampoos contain various active ingredients in addition to the surface-active substances, including rüokfettmittel and skin-closer substances. In addition to these substances, the hair shampoos (and also the other hair care products) also contain fragrances and dyes and, if necessary, preservatives. In general, protein and amino acid-containing substances, for example plant extracts, collagen, etc., are used as active ingredients.

The active ingredients contained in the hair shampoo can only partially exert their effect because the treatment with shampoo is followed by rinsing the hair and a significant part of the active ingredients is thereby removed. If you leave that

Soak the shampoo on the scalp for a while before rinsing, this will encourage the active ingredients to diffuse into the skin.

In contrast to Shampoon, the hair rinses are not washed off with water. Because they remain on the scalp, their active ingredient content is generally lower than that of shampoos. The main purpose of hair detergents is that Compensate for the skin and hair damaging effects of the shampoo, improve the condition of the hair and scalp.

This goal is even more pronounced with hair conditioning agents, which also remain on the head permanently or for a longer period of time. The hair conditioning agents contain the active ingredients, mostly natural proteins, without surfactants in the form of an emulsion.

In addition to alcohol, hair lotions also contain extracts of natural origin, mostly vegetable extracts or proteins of animal origin.

In the main areas of application of hair care products mentioned there is in any case the requirement that the active ingredients must have a composite beneficial effect. They have to give the hair part of its fat content, maintain its physical properties (elasticity, combability, shine, etc.), protect the scalp from drying out and allow the substances necessary for hair formation to penetrate the scalp.

Protein-based active ingredients are used in the manufacture of nail polish, which serve to protect the consistency of the nails and to prevent or weaken the brittleness of the nails. One of the biggest disadvantages of nail polishes is that the lacquer film becomes brittle and splinters off. The result of this is that the lacquer layer must be removed much more frequently than would be due to the natural wear of the lacquer.

The object of the invention is to provide a hair and nail care product which meets the diverse requirements outlined above and, by using a natural active ingredient which is more effective than the known ones, ensures more effective hair and nail care.

The invention is based on the knowledge that, among the natural active ingredients, all those which make it possible to achieve the stated goals are contained in the blood owing to its protein and amino acid composition. The use of blood in its natural form for cosmetic purposes is hindered by numerous circumstances, including its Tendency to curdle and spoil, its color, etc.

The industrial use of blood from slaughterhouses is well known. It is treated with an anticoagulator and then separated into dioc blood and blood plasma in the separator. The blood plasma is mainly used in the food industry. As proteins, it mainly contains globular proteins, lipoproteins and fibrinogen.

In its natural form, the blood plasma seems unsuitable for use as an active ingredient due to its high water content and its perishability. A blood plasma extract which can be used according to the invention as an active ingredient for hair and nail care products can be obtained from blood plasma by drying. The blood plasma extract contains a relatively large amount of salt, since the salt concentration increases with drying and concentration as the water emerges. The composition of the blood plasma, the dried blood plasma and the content of essential amino acids in the blood plasma are given below (Grant, R.A .: Applied protein chemistry, Applied Sei. Publishers, Ltd., London, 1980). Average composition of the blood plasma making up 60% of the total blood water 90.8% by mass

Salt 0.8 mass% fat 0.1 mass% other substances 0.4 mass%

Protein 7.9 mass%

Albumin 3.3 mass% fibrinogen 0.4 mass% globulin 4.2 mass%

Average composition of the dried blood plasma

Water 7.0 mass%

Protein 71.9% by mass Salts (from the blood plasma) 7.3% by mass

(Anticoagulator) 9.2 mass%

Fat 1.0 mass% other 3.6 mass% Blood plasma content of essential amino acids (g / 100 g plasma)

Lysine 9.2 leucine 10.1

Threonine 6.2 isoleucine 2.9

Methionine 1.0 tryptophan 1.9

Valine 7.0 histidine 3.5

Phenylalanine 5.6

The protein content of the dried blood plasma is therefore 71.9% and that of the blood plasma is only 7.9%. This almost tenfold amount results from the considerable reduction in the water content. When drying, however, not only the real protein content increases, but also the salt content. The 16.5% salt contained in the dried blood plasma is an obstacle for most cosmetic applications, primarily the salts originating from the anticoagulator pose a danger. These are different phosphates that coagulate the proteins on the surface of the skin to precipitate. The high salt content has a dehydrating effect, dries out the skin and can also irritate it. Despite its ideal protein and amino acid composition, the blood plasma extract can therefore only be used in small quantities for cosmetic purposes.

However, the thickening of the blood plasma cannot only be done by drying. With the technology referred to in the industry as ultrafiltration, particles with a molecular weight of only 16000-18000 can be separated from the liquid phase. The molar mass of the valuable proteins and amino acids contained in the blood plasma is above this range, so they can be separated from the liquid phase by ultrafiltration. In contrast to drying, ultrafiltration not only separates the liquid, but also the salts dissolved in it, ie the extract has a much lower salt content. Compared to the 16.5 show salt content of the dried blood plasma, the blood plasma thickened by ultrafiltration only has a salt content of about 4.1%, of which only about 2.5% are residues originating from the anticoagulator. This amount of salt can already be described as negligible. The invention accordingly relates to a preparation for

Hair and nail care, especially in the form of a hair shampoo,

Hair rinses, hair conditioners or hair lotions or nail polish. It is characteristic of the preparation according to the invention that it contains at least an amount of blood plasma extract obtained from slaughterhouse blood as an active ingredient

Contains 0.3 masses and a maximum of 6 masses.

In the stated amount, the advantages of the protein components contained in the blood plasma even compensate for the possible disadvantages of the salt content contained in the dried blood plasma extract.

Much more favorable results are achieved, however, if the salt concentration in the blood plasma extract is at most 6%, in particular below 4.2%. This concentration can only be achieved by ultrafiltration.

If the blood plasma extract is not broken down into fractions, it retains its original composition and that derived from the anticoagulator added to the slaughterhouse blood

Residues make up a maximum of 60% of the permissible salinity. To achieve a mechanism of action with a broad spectrum, it is advantageous if the protein and amino acid composition of the blood plasma extract is in harmony with that of the blood plasma and the protein concentration in the extract is at least 60%. For a better understanding of the advantages offered by the active ingredients obtained from the blood plasma extract, the composition of the hair proteins should be briefly discussed. The keratin is largely made up of cystine and methionine, so applying these amino acids to the scalp promotes the development of the hair structure. The amino acid composition of the fibrinogen contained in the plasma is more favorable compared to that of other biologically active substances (collagen, elastin). For example, the threonine content of the fibrinogen is three and six times as high, and the leucine and isoleucine content is about three times that of the collagen. Fibrinogen contains five times as much tyrosine and more than twice as much lysine as collagen, and its lysine content is sixteen times that of elastin. The arginine content of the blood plasma is six times that of the ELa stins. Tryptophan is not found at all in collagen and elastin, but in significant amounts in fibrinogen. Collagen contains no cystine, and elastin contains only one seventh of the cystine content of fibrinogen. The other important sulfur-containing amino acid, methionine, is only present in trace amounts in elastin, and collagen also contains only a quarter of the methionine content of fibrinogen. These relative numbers show even greater differences if one takes into account that the proteins and amino acids are contained in the blood plasma extract many times more concentrated than in the blood plasma.

Collagen and elastin are considered to be extremely advantageous as active ingredients for hair care products, the comparative figures given therefore show some of the advantages that result from the use of blood plasma. The mechanism of action has not yet been fully clarified, but the fact that, apart from the higher concentration of the amino acids, their state of binding is also more favorable for incorporation into the organism than the binding of the same amino acids to non-body carriers. In the known preparations there is mostly binding to non-body carriers. The globular proteins contained in the blood plasma extract have hydrating properties and ensure the natural elasticity of the scalp. The lipoproteins contained in the plasma are fatty, so they mitigate the fat-extracting effects of the surface-active substances. As a result of the properties described, the proteins not only nourish the skin but are adsorbed on the scalp, protect them from drying out, hydrate them and counteract irritation. The fatty substances influence the mechanical properties of the hair in a favorable direction.

As a result of the properties described, the active ingredient according to the invention is particularly suitable for use in hair care products. The similarity in the structure of hair and nails shows that the same active ingredient can also be used with advantage in nail polish; In nail polish, the active ingredient also increases the elasticity of the lacquer layer. To produce the hair care product according to the invention, the blood plasma extract is first swollen in water, the remaining additives are added to the swollen mixture, and occasionally it is homogenized or left to stand. This applies primarily to hair shampoos and conditioners; in the latter the active substance content is expediently 0.4-2% by mass.

Another advantage of the blood plasma extract comes to light in the manufacture of hair conditioners. The conditioning agents contain aqueous emulsions instead of surfactants, and the lipoproteins stabilize the water / oil emulsions.

The invention is explained in more detail below with the aid of a few examples. example 1

The preparation of hair shampoo is based on the following composition: 35-40% by mass, preferably 40% by mass, sodium lauryl ether sulfate, 8-12% by mass, preferably 10% by mass, betaine derivative, for example the hand ice cream product Zelbetain, 1.5-2.5% by mass %, preferably 2 mass%, fatty acid diethanolamide, 40-50 mass%, preferably 45 mass%, distilled water, 0.3-0.7 mass%, preferably 0.5 mass%, preservative, 0.8-1.5 mass %, preferably 1 mass%, blood plasma extract. The blood plasma extract is swollen in water, then the remaining components are added with stirring. Fragrances are added to the homogeneously stirred mixture at 30 ° C.

The shampoo is applied to the head during shampooing and expediently left to act for a few minutes so that the active ingredient can diffuse into the scalp. It has been shown that the shampoo ensures elasticity, appropriate consistency, good combability and a pleasant fall of the hair.

Example 2

To produce a hair rinse aid, 0.4-2% by mass, preferably 0.8% by mass, of blood plasma extract swollen in water, 0.08% by mass of the commercial product Antara 430 and 0.3% by mass of citric acid are added. The water content is about 99% by mass. The use of this hair conditioner gives permanently groomed hair. Example 3

Two compositions are given below for the production of hair conditioning agents: A. Commercial product Lanette 12 mass%

Commercial product Getinol 1 mass%

Commercial product Comperlan 3 mass%

Blood plasma extract 2 mass%

Glycerin 5% by mass Citric acid 0.5% by mass

Water 76.5 mass%

B. Commercial product Lanette 3.2 mass%

Commercial product Emulgin 82 0.8 mass%

Commercial product Entanol G 2 mass% blood plasma extract 1.5 mass%

Glycerin 5 mass%

Citric acid 0.5 mass%

Water 87 mass%

The blood plasma extract is swollen in water and the remaining components are added. Hairdressers and beauticians were very appreciative of the product. Example 4

A beneficial composition for hair tonic; 85.5% alcohol by mass, 9.5% distilled water, 3% isopropyl myristate, 0.5% blood plasma extract, 1.5% fragrance. The plasma extract is swollen in water, the other components are dissolved in alcohol and added. The mixture is left to stand for 1-2 weeks and, if necessary, filtered. The hair tonic was tested with a good result

Example 5

In the manufacture of nail polish, 20% by mass of nitrocellulose, 1.8% by weight of plasticizer, 9.5% by weight of adhesion-increasing resin, 3m27% by weight of toluene, 14% by weight of butyl acetate, 14% by weight of ethyl acetate and 8% by weight of isopropanol are used to produce the lacquered body. First the solvents are mixed together and then the plasticizer, the nitrocellulose and finally the resin are dissolved in the solvent mixture. From 84 mas se% of this lacquer body, 15 masses of bentonite and 1 mass% of blood plasma extract, a thixotropic lacquer is produced. The nail polish keeps the nail healthy, prevents the nails from becoming brittle and cracked, and has an elastic film. The hair or nail care agent according to the invention ensures effective hair and nail care, it is easy to use and relatively cheap to manufacture in larger batches.

Claims

1. Preparation for hair and nail care, in particular in the form of shampoos, hair rinses, hair conditioning agents and hair tonic or in the form of nail polish, characterized by the fact that it is an active ingredient

Blood plasma extract obtained from slaughterhouse blood contains at least 0.3% by mass and at most 6% by mass.

2. Preparation according to claim 1, characterized in that the blood plasma extract contains at most 6% salt.

3. A preparation according to claim 2, characterized in that the residues originating from the anticoagulator added to the slaughterhouse blood make up at most 60% of the permissible salt content. 4. A preparation according to any one of claims 1-3, characterized in that the protein composition of the blood plasma extract is consistent with the protein composition of the blood plasma and the blood plasma extract contains at least 60% protein. 5o process for the preparation of a preparation according to any one of claims 1-4, in the form of a hair shampoo, by homogenizing surface-active substances, lipid-replenishing agents, fragrances and optionally dyes and preservatives, characterized in that the blood plasma extract is swollen in water and the other components be added to this liquid.

6. The method according to claim 5, characterized enn zeic hn et that in the preparation of the preparation 35-45 mass% sodium lauryl ether sulfate, 8-12 mass% betaine derivatives, 1.5-2.5 mass% fatty acid diethanolamide, 40-50 mass% distilled water, 0.3-0.7 mass% preservative, 0.3-0.7 mass% fragrance and 0.8-1.5 mass blood plasma extract can be used.

7. A process for the preparation of a preparation according to any one of claims 1-4, in the form of a hair rinse, by homogenizing water, preservatives, fragrances and, if appropriate, dares, characterized in that the blood plasma extract in an amount of 0.4-2% by mass is used and previously soaked in water. 7. The method according to claim 7, characterized in that at least 97.5 mass% of water and at least partially citric acid is used as a preservative.

9. A process for the preparation of a preparation according to any one of claims 1-4, in the form of a hair conditioning agent, by preparing an aqueous emulsion and adding preservatives and, if appropriate, fragrances and / or colorants, characterized in that the blood plasma extract is in water swollen and added in this form.

10. The method according to claim 9, characterized geke nnz eic hn et that 70-90 mass% water, 4-6 mass% glycerol, 0.8-2.5 mass% blood plasma extract and 0.4-0.6 mass% citric acid used.

11. A process for the preparation of a preparation according to any one of claims 1-4, in the form of hair tonic, by mixing at least 80 tigers of alcohol, fragrances and / or dyes and allowing the mixture to stand, characterized in that the blood plasma extract is in an amount of 0.4-0.8% by mass and is previously swollen in water.

12. A process for the preparation of a preparation according to any one of claims 1-4, in the form of nail varnish, by preparing a paint body and optionally adding pigments, characterized in that the paint body in an amount of 0 based on the end product, 5-1.5 mass% blood plasma extract is added in the swollen state.