US614703A - l delory - Google Patents

Description

8 9 l 2! 2 V o N uv e t n e t a BI Y B 0 I- E D L I a 0 1 M 6 n N ADJUSTABLE GARMENT CHART.

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No. 6l4,703. Patented Nov. 22, I898.

J. L. DELORY.

ADJUSTABLE GARMENT CHART.

(Application filed Dec. 29, 1397. w (No Model.) 2 $hoeta-Shoet 2.

IIIIIT'I in France, No. 273,276, dated December 18,

' section taken 011 the line 2 z of Fig. 2.

JEAN LOUIS DELORY,

ADJUSTABLE GA OF BLOIS, FRANCE.

RM ENT-CHART.

SPECIFICATION forming part of Letters Patent No. 614,703, dated November 22, 1898. Application filed December 29, 1897. Serial No. 664,380. (No model.)

To a whom, it may concern.-

Be it known that I, JEAN LOUIS DELORY, a citizen of France, residing at Blois, Loir-et- Cher, France, have invented certain new and useful Improvements in Apparatus for Drafting Mens Garments, (for which I have obtained Letters Patent in Great Britain, No. 13,711, dated June 3, 1897; in Germany, No. 98,647, dated August 19, 1897; in Belgium, No. 132,241, dated December 3, 1897; in Switzerland, No. 19,012, dated August 5, 1898;

1897, and in Austria, No. 48/4,243, dated August 6, 1898, filed July 7, 1898,) of which the following is a specification.

This invention relates to an improved apparatus for use in tracing the parts of mens garmentssuch as coats, Waistcoats, and the lll(e'tl1d. is so constructed as to give by a simple displacement and adjustment of its parts the fundamental points or lines for a complete tracing of the parts of such garments on cloth or other suitable material of which they are to be made. The said apparatus comprises three distinct parts or sets of adjustable bars, all of which are marked with a scale, the purpose whereof is hereinafter indicated. The first of these pieces serves for the tracing or setting out of the front parts of garments, the second for those of the back, and the third for the small side pieces, where such are used.

For deformed persons it is only necessary to set the apparatus at a higher or lower sign or number, as hereinafter fully explained.

In order that my invention may be readily understood, I will describe the same fully, with reference to the accompanying drawings, in which-- Figure 1 shows the first piece, that for tracing the front; Fig. 2, the second piece, that for the back; and Fig. 3, the third piece, that for the sides. Fig. 4 is a change-bar for use in place of that shown in Fig. 2. Fig. 5 is a section taken on the line as m of Fig. 1, and Fig. 6 is a transverse section taken on the line y y of Fig. 2. Fig. 7 is a longitudinal Figs.

5, 6, and 7 are drawn to a larger scale than the previous figures.

Referring to the drawings, it will be seen that the front part, Fig. 1, consists of a main hollow bar or rod A, containing a sliding bar a, adapted to be retained in any desired position by a set-screw a? This bar A is provided at a short distance from the lower end with a hollow limb, branch, or arm B, havin g an angular sliding bar 1) and set-screw b*. Upon the angular limb b of the bar bis a slide 0, with set-screw 0*, having arms 0 and 0 the former of which is hollow and is provided with a set-screw c to enable a sliding bar 0 having curved arms 0 c", to be adj usted as may be required. The arm c is solid and is provided with curved arms 0 0 At a short distance from the upper end of the bar A is a hollow branch or limb D, (having a set-screw d*,) in which slides a bar d, to one extremity of which is pivoted a curved bar d by a pin 01 This bar is provided with an index or pointer 01 near its pivoted end adapted to be set to any of the three radial lines H, 0,.L on the sliding bar d, the purpose of which will be hereinafter pointed out.

The uppermost end of the bar A forms a hollow branch or limb E and is provided with a set-screw 6* for receiving a sliding bare, to which is pivoted at e a slightly-curved rod 6 To the lower end of the sliding bar a is piv oted at a a hollow bar F, having set-screws ff, the former of which serves to fix an adj ustable sliding bar f while the latter serves to fix a similar bar f The bar f carries at its outer end a slightly-curved rod f pivoted thereto by a pin f It will be seen from the drawings that the two bars f f are arranged side by side in the hollow bar F and are capable of being slid in opposite directions the one to the other.

The part for the back (shown at Fig. 2) comprisesa hollow main'bar G, provided with a set-screw g, in which slides a bar g, carrying at its lower end a rectangular holl'ow arm g having a set-screw 9 serving to hold an adjustable bar 9 formed with a slightly-curved arm The hollow bar G is provided near its upper end with a hollow branch or limb M, furnished with a set-screw m and carrying a sliding bar m, terminating in an angularlydisposed rod m A sleeve N, adapted to be adjusted on the bar G, is fixed in position by a set-screw n, and in order to prevent this screw scratching or defacing the scale 011 the bar G a bearing-plate n, Fig. 7, is interposed between the foot of said set-screw and bar. One end of this plate at is bent at right angles to form a stop, and it has at its other end a screw 71 for preventing it becoming detached from the adjustable sleeve N. Extending at right angles from this sleeve is a hollow branch or limb n furnished with a set-screw n retaining a sliding bar of. The outer end of this bar is provided with an angular arm at, having a set-screw n for holding an adjustable bar u The outer end a of this latter is curved, as shown in Fig. 2, and is used for tracing the parts of a coat, while for tracing a jacket or a waistcoat the change-piece, Fig. &, is substituted therefor.

The part represented in Fig. 3 for the side pieces of coats consists of a hollow bar P, whose upper end P is curved, and said bar is provided with set-screws p p at its extremities. The end P is fitted with a suitably-curved bar 19 having a curved arm 12. The lower end of the bar P receives an adjustable bar 29", having a rectangular hollow arm 1), furnished with a set-screw p for holding a sliding bar 13 whose outer end carries a slightly-curved arm 19*.

It may here be mentioned that the three parts are shown in the drawings in their relative posit-ions to each other, but that in practice they would be placed as near as possible to each other, with only sufficient space between them to allow for the passage of the tailors chalk.

In order to use the apparatus, say for tracing the body part of a coat, the pieces shown in Figs. 1, 2, and 3 are laid on the cloth or other material from which the coat is to be made and are then adjusted in the following manner, according to the measurements previously obtained in the ordinary way with the usual measuring-tape.

It is to be understood that the cloth is double, as usual, and that the apparatus represents the pieces required for one half of the coat, the other half being identical.

Now supposing the measurements taken to be-chest, nineteen inches, one-half being nine and one-half inches; collar, eighteen inches; length of front down to waist, seventeen and one half inches; length of back down to waist,eighteen inches; girth of waist, thirty-four inches, one-half being seventeen inches; length from armpit to hip, ten inches; armhole, nineteen inches. The bar (1' in the hollow limb D and the bar n in the branch or limb n are then both adjusted to that division on the scale representing nine and one-half inches or half the chest measure ment and are retained thereat by tightening the set-screws (1* n. The bars a and m are then drawn out as far as the divisions marked 18, representing the measurement of the collar. The bar a is adjusted to the length at front down to the waist, being here seventeen and onehalf inches, and the bar g to eighteen inches for the back. The bars 1) and p are next adjusted to ten and one-half inches, representing the length from the armpit to the hip. The barsf f", 17 and g" are now adjusted to seventeen inches, or one-half the girth at the waist, and the limb F is then turned on its hinge pin or pivot a, so as to bring the lowest point of the arm f level with p. The bars c and n are next adjusted to the numeral l9 for the armhole, and the points 19 and n are placed adjacent to the numeral 19 of the scale on the curved arms 0 0 The bar cl is turned on its pivot (1 so as to set the pointer (Z to the central line 0, if the person for whom the coat is intended has ordinary shoulders. For persons having high or low shoulders the lines II or L instead of O are used accordingly. It now only remains to set the curved rods 0 and f by sight, according as whether the person is stout or not. The lines are traced on the cloth by following the contour of the apparatus and completing them from point to point, as indicated by dot-and-dash lines. The lines traced along the curved arms p 1) and n" g form the side seam with the back. formed persons the bars a and g and rods 0 and f are, as before, adjusted to the required measurements, and the bar cl is set to high or low shoulders, as the case may be.

For tracing a jacket the piece, Fig. 8, is not required, and the upper end of the armf (marked V is brought to a level with the bar 9 while the curved bar a" is replaced by that shown in Fi 4 for the side seam.

It is thus evident that the apparatus can be set in a few moments to any measurement and to suit various forms of garments, thus obviating the necessity of having a large number of patterns, while at the same time the chance of making mistakes in setting out is reduced to a minimum.

Having now particularly described and explained the nature of my said invention, and in what manner the same may be employed, I declare that what I claim is- 1. In an apparatus for drafting mens garments, a section for tracing the front part of the garment, consisting of a hollow main bar A provided with the hollow arms B, D and E, limbs a, b, (l and 6 adapted to enter said bar and arms, means for securing said limbs in said bar and arms, bars attached to said limbs for indicating the position of the cut for the front of the garment, the position of the armhole, and the position of the lower edge of the front of the garment, and a shoulder-bar pivoted at one end to the section and having its opposite end free, whereby said shoulderbar is adapted to be moved independently for indicating the position of the shoulder-cut, substantially as set forth.

2. In an apparatus for drafting mens garments, a section for tracing the front part of the garment, consisting of a hollow main bar For de- A provided with the hollow arms B, D and E, limbs a, b, (l and e adapted to enter said bar and arms, means for securing said limbs in said bar and arms, bars attached to said limbs for indicating the position of the armhole, the position of the shoulder-cut, and the position of the cut for the lower edge of the front of the garment, and curved rods, the one pivoted at one end to said latter bar and the other to the limb e, and adapted by direction toward each other to produce the curve for the front of the garment, substantially as set forth.

3. In an apparatus for drafting mens garments, a section for tracing the back part of the garment, consisting of a hollow main bar G provided with the hollow arms M and n limbs g, m and n adapted to enter said hollow bar and arms, said limbs g and n being provided with hollow portions at their outer ends, angular limbs g and 01* adapted to enter said hollow portions, means for securing the limbs in the main bar and hollow arms, means for securing said angular limbs in said hollow portions, and a substitution-piece adapted for insertion into the hollow portion of the limb of, the angle of said substitution-piece being greater than the angle of the angular limb or, whereby said apparatus is adapted for drafting a vest or waistcoat, substantially as set forth.

l. In an apparatus for drafting mens garments, a section for tracing the back part of the garment, consisting of a hollow main bar G provided with the hollow arms M and n limbs g, m and n adapted to enter said hollow bar and arms said limbs g and n being provided with hollow portions at their outer ends, angular limbs g and n adapted to enter said hollow portions, means for securing the limbs in the main bar and hollow arms, means for securing said angular limbs in said hollow portions, and an adjusting device connected to the arm n for adjusting said arm on the main bar, said adjusting device consisting of a sleeve adapted to slide on the bar G, a setserew in said sleeve, and a bearing-plate between said screw and the bar G, said bearingplate extending beyond said sleeve, and a screw for retaining the bearing-plate in position in the sleeve, substantially as set forth.

In testimony that I claim the foregoing as my invention I have signed my name in presence of two subscribing witnesses.

JEAN LOUIS DELORY.

Witnesses:

EDWARD P. MACLEAN, PAUL PELE.

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