US32291A - Henry s - Google Patents

Description

AT FlF.

HENRY S. HOLMES, 0F LYNN, MASSACHUSETTS.

CONGRESS eAITERs.

To all whom it may concern:

Be it known that I, HENRY S. HOLMES, ot"` Lynn, in the county of Essex and Commonwealth of Massachusetta have invented a certain new and useful Improvement in the Manufacture of Congress Gaiters; and I do hereby declare that the following is a full, clear, and exact description of the same, referencebeing had to the accompanying draw ing thereof and making part of this speciiication, in which- Figure 1 represents a plan of one half of the heel part of the gaiter top as cut out preparatory` to being secured to the other hall' and afterward secured to the gore and lining; Fig. 2 represents a similar view of one-half of the corresponding part of the lining; Fig. 3 represents a plan of the elastic gore as cut out preparatory to being attached to the gaiter top. Figs. 4 and 5 represent a plan respectively of one-half of the front part of the gaiter top and lining as cnt out preparatory to undergoing the same operations, and Fig. 6 asimilar View of the outer parts of the heel, as sewed together in the first part of the operation; Fig. 7, a similar view of the lining finished to the saine extent; the two parts (Figs. 6 and 7) being now ready to be put together and attached to each other by sewing, as represented in' Fig. 8, a tug being also represented in that figure as secured between the two in the latter operation; a small piece of linen having previously been stitched down over the back seam that secured the two parts of the prunella or outer cloth of the heel part, to strengthen and stiiien it, (showing in red lines the size of the gore'as stitched between the outer cloth and lining, it being the next operation.) Fig. 9 represents the two parts of the outer cloth of the front part of the gaiter top as stitched together and Fig. 10 a similar view of the two parts of the front lining, nished to the same eX- tent; Fig. 11, a plan of the outer cloth and lining as fitted and sewed together, preparatory to being attached to the other edge of the gore now attached to the back or heel part of the gaiter top, this figure, .as in Fig. 8, representing in red lines the position of the gore during that operation; and further representing a piece of linen which has been previously stitched down over the seam of the outer cloth of the front part of the gaiter top, on its inside to strengthen and stiften it. Fig. 12 represents an edge View an edge ot' the gore, as attached to the front and heel part of the gaiter top; the lining and outer cloth after being stitched down on the -gore having been turned over; Fig. 14k represents a side elevation of the gaiter top as finished ready to be soled.

My present improvement relates to that class of gaiters commonly called Congress genere.

On the 19th day ot' June, 1860, a patent was granted to me for a certain improvement in Congress gaiters, to wit: securing the edges of the' gores to the gaiter top and lining by a seam common to all by means of which the gores were secured in a much better manner inasmuch as by that method it was easier and cheaper so to attach them, andl when thus attached an equal strain or tension was exerted upon them, preventing puckerings, &c.

My present improvement consists in combining with that method of securing the gores, the method to be hereafter described, ot' securing the upper edges ot the gait-er top and lining together, by means of which, the

whole process of manufacture of gaiter tops can be eii'ected by machinery, at a much less cost, and in a neater and stronger manner and in a much shorter time than heretofore.

To enable others skilled in the art to make and use my improvement, I will now pro# ceed to describe `it in'detail, here remarking that the sewing is executed by machine.

The cloth or material of which the gaiter top is to be made is first cut out into pieces of the requisite size and shape, preparatory to being fashioned into gaiter tops as represented by Figs. 1 and 4, there being two of each, Fig. 1 representing one-half of the heel part and Fig. 4f one-haltet the front part, Figs. 2 and 5, forming the corresponding parts of the lining. The two pieces like Fig. 1, forming the two 'halves of the heel part of the gaiter top are first stitched together as in Fig. 6, they being for this puras represented at (a) Fig. 8. The two parts of the heel lining are then sewed together in the same manner and opened out after which the two are placed together with their faces inward and stitched together at top, as represented by the dotted line (ZJ) Fig. 8, previous to which however the tug (c) is inserted between them as shown in red in the same figure, and thus secured to the heel by the same seam (b) Fig. 8, that secures the upper edges of the heel part (A) of the gaiter top and lining. Thus secured, the gores (D) are -then inserted between the outer part (A) of the heel and the lining (B) in the manner shown in red lines Fig. 8, and stitched down as shown at (d) Fig. 8, thus securing one side or edge of the outer part (A) of the heel, gore and lining together by a seam common to all. The heel part thus completed and attached to one side Aof the gores, the lining and outer part 'are then turned right side out preparatory to being secured to the front part of the gaiter top; for which purpose, the two halves ofv the outer part (E) of the front of the gaiter top are first secured together in the same manner as the heel in part (A) (represented in Figs. G and S) as shown in Figs. 9 and l1; and the two parts of the lining sewed together as shown in Fig. l0, after. which they are put together' as shown in Fig. l1 and stitched together at top as represented at (b) Fig. ll. The unfastened edge 0f the gores (D) are then inserted between them as represented in red lines Fig. 1l and then stitched together by being passed through the machine, as in the case of the attachment of the other side of the gore to the heel part that is to say, by a seam (d) common to all. In this operation, the lower parts of the heel part of the gaiter top and lining are secured to the front parts, they in common with the gores, for this purpose, having been inserted between the lining' and outer part of the front of the gaiter top, so that the continuation of the same seam that secured the gores to the front part secured the heel to the front. The two gores and sides of the heel being thus secured to the front, the lining and outer part of the latter are then turnedright side out, which completes the gaiter top, as in Fig. 14, it being then ready to be attached to the heel and sole. By this improved method therefore the whole gaiter top can be made by machine instead of having to be partially sewed by hand and partly l by machine as heretofore, whereby a very great-saving of time and labor is effected while a stronger, neater and better gaiterI top .is made.

From what has been said, it will be apparent that there are various modes of carrying my invention into elfect, without altering the principle in any degree; as for instance, instead of commencing by sewing the two halves of the cloth of the heel together and then the lining in the same way, and afterward stitching them together at the top, before securing one edge of the gores to them, and afterward following the same course vwith the frontpart; one edge of the gore may be attached at once to onehalf ofthe outer cloth of the heel, and the lining, and then its other edge attached in the same manner to the corresponding half of the outer part and lining, of the front part of the gaiter top, and then'V the other Oore securedin the same manner to the other lialf of the gaiter top; after which the respective halves of the outer cloth of the gaiter top may be sewed together and then the lining sewed together in the same way; after which the upper edge of the lining and outer part of the heel may be stitched toc gether as represent-ed in Fig. 8; and then, the upper edge of the outer cloth of the front part and lining sewed together in the same way as represented in Fig. 11. So that there is no difference in the result, there merely being a transposition of the different operations-each way enabling the operator to finish a gaiter top by machine sewing a result never before attained. It is also apparent that the addition of leather tips and heels to such gaiters can in no way affect the operation above described.

Having thus described my invention, what I claim as new and desire to secure by Let ters Patent is- Securing the upper edge of the cloth of the front and heel parts of a Congressgaiter top to their respective linings by an inside seam (b) Figs. 8 and 11, when such seams are used in connection with gores of elastic cloth attached to the gaiter top and lining by a seam common to all, the whole-

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