US20080289647A1

US20080289647A1 - Process for treating hair fibres with compositions containing reactive silicones

Info

Publication number: US20080289647A1
Application number: US12/004,103
Authority: US
Inventors: Gilles Genain
Original assignee: LOreal SA
Current assignee: LOreal SA
Priority date: 2006-12-20
Filing date: 2007-12-20
Publication date: 2008-11-27
Also published as: EP1974772A1; FR2910313A1

Abstract

Hair fibre treatment process comprising the following steps:

- application to the keratin fibres of at least one compound X and at least one compound Y, at least one of the compounds X and Y being a silicone compound, the said compounds X and Y being capable of reacting together via a hydrosilylation, condensation or crosslinking reaction in the presence of peroxide when they are placed in contact with each other;
- raising the temperature of the keratin fibres, by means of a heating iron, to a temperature at least equal to 60° C., the raising of the temperature being performed before or after optional rinsing of the keratin fibres;
  compound(s) X and compound(s) Y being applied to the keratin fibres using several compositions containing compound(s) X and compound(s) Y, alone or as a mixture, or using a single composition containing compound(s) X and compound(s) Y.

Description

The invention relates to a process for treating hair fibres, and to the use of the said process for improving the smoothness of hair fibres.
Many hair treatment processes use silicone compounds. The reason for this is that it is known that silicone compounds are cosmetic active agents that improve the cosmetic properties of the hair. They have a conditioning effect on the hair and provide smoothness.
However, this provision of sheen afforded by silicones has a tendency to fade away rapidly over time.
Moreover, many hair treatment processes use a step of heating the hair. However, heating of the hair may have a degrading effect on the fibres, and what is more the results are not long-lasting.
Thus, patent application WO 99/17719 discloses a hair treatment process for conditioning and non-permanently shaping the hair. This process comprises the application of a leave-in composition comprising a non-volatile silicone conditioning agent, a resin and a vector, followed by the use of a heating appliance to dry or style the hair, this operation inducing a 1% reduction in the bending modulus. The non-volatile silicone conditioning agent represents from 0.1% to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
Patent application EP 1 582 198 describes a process for treating hair fibres comprising a step of applying to the hair fibres a composition comprising at least 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of at least one silicone chosen from aryl silicones and silicone gums, followed by a step of raising the temperature of the hair fibres, by means of a heating iron, to a temperature of between 150 and 250° C.
The aim of the present invention is thus to provide a hair fibre treatment process that overcomes the drawbacks of the prior art.
In particular, the aim of the present invention is to provide a hair fibre treatment process that can give the fibres a good level of smoothness without regaining any frizziness, and that can prolong this effect over time, with limited degradation of the fibres. Moreover, the effect better withstands shampooing.
The said process should also make it possible to increase the straightness and improve the smoothness of the hair fibres.
The Applicant has found that it is possible to overcome the drawbacks of the prior art and to satisfy the abovementioned objectives by performing a hair fibre treatment process comprising a step of applying to the hair fibres at least one compound X and at least one compound Y, at least one of the compounds X and Y being a silicone compound, the said compounds X and Y being capable of reacting together via a hydrosilylation, condensation or crosslinking reaction in the presence of peroxide when they are placed in contact with each other, and a step of raising the temperature of the keratin fibres, by means of a heating iron, to a temperature at least equal to 60° C., the raising of the temperature being performed before or after optional rinsing of the keratin fibres.
Thus, one subject of the invention is a hair fibre treatment process comprising the following steps:

- application to the keratin fibres of at least one compound X and at least one compound Y, at least one of the compounds X and Y being a silicone compound, the said compounds X and Y being capable of reacting together via a hydrosilylation, condensation or crosslinking reaction in the presence of peroxide when they are placed in contact with each other;
- raising the temperature of the keratin fibres, by means of a heating iron, to a temperature at least equal to 60° C., the raising of the temperature being performed before or after optional rinsing of the keratin fibres.

Compound(s) X and compound(s) Y may be applied to the keratin fibres using several compositions containing compound(s) X and compound(s) Y, alone or as a mixture, or using a single composition containing compound(s) X and compound(s) Y.
Compounds X and Y
The term “silicone compound” means a compound comprising at least two organosiloxane units. According to one particular embodiment, compounds X and compounds Y are silicone-based. Compounds X and Y may be amino or non-amino compounds. They may comprise polar groups, which may be chosen from the following groups: —COOH, —COO⁻, —COO—, —OH, —NH₂, —NH—, —NR—, —SO₃H, —SO₃ ⁻, —OCH₂CH₂—, —O—CH₂CH₂CH₂—, —O—CH₂CH(CH₃)—, —NR₃ ⁺, —SH, —NO₂, I, Cl, Br, —CN, —PO₄ ³⁻, —CONH—, —CONR—, —CONH₂, —CSNH—, —SO₂—, —SO—, —SO₂NH—, —NHCO—, —NHSO₂—, —NHCOO—, —OCONH—, —NHCSO— and —OCSNH— with R representing an alkyl group.
According to another embodiment, at least one of the compounds X and Y is a polymer whose main chain is predominantly formed from organosiloxane units.
Among the silicone compounds mentioned below, some may have both film-forming properties and adhesive properties depending, for example, on their proportion of silicone or on whether they are used as a mixture with a particular additive. It is consequently possible to modify the film-forming properties or the adhesive properties of such compounds according to the intended use, and this is in particular the case for the reactive elastomeric silicones said to be “room-temperature vulcanizable”.
Compounds X and Y may react together at a temperature ranging between room temperature and 180° C. Advantageously, compounds X and Y may react together at room temperature (20±5° C.) and atmospheric pressure, advantageously in the presence of a catalyst, via a hydrosilylation reaction or a condensation reaction, or a crosslinking reaction in the presence of a peroxide.
1—Compounds X and Y Capable of Reacting Via Hydrosilylation
According to one embodiment, compounds X and Y are capable of reacting via hydrosilylation, this reaction being represented schematically in simple terms as follows:
with W representing a carbon-based and/or silicone chain containing one or more unsaturated aliphatic groups.
In this case, compound X may be chosen from silicone compounds comprising at least two unsaturated aliphatic groups. For example, compound X may comprise a silicone main chain whose unsaturated aliphatic groups are pendent on the main chain (side group) or located at the ends of the main chain of the compound (end group). In the rest of the description, these particular compounds will be referred to as polyorganosiloxanes containing unsaturated aliphatic groups.
According to one embodiment, compound X is chosen from polyorganosiloxanes comprising at least two unsaturated aliphatic groups, for example two or three vinyl or allylic groups, each bonded to a silicon atom.
According to one advantageous embodiment, compound X is chosen from polyorganosiloxanes comprising siloxane units of formula:
$\begin{matrix} R_{m} R^{'} SiO \frac{(3 - m)}{2} & (I) \end{matrix}$
in which:

- R represents a linear or cyclic monovalent hydro-carbon-based group containing from 1 to 30 carbon-atoms, preferably from 1 to 20 and better still from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, for instance a short-chain alkyl radical containing, for example, from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, in particular a methyl radical, or alternatively a phenyl group, preferably a methyl radical,
- m is equal to 1 or 2, and
- R′ represents:
  - an unsaturated aliphatic hydrocarbon-based group containing from 2 to 10 and preferably from 2 to 5 carbon atoms, for instance a vinyl group or a group —R″—CH═CHR′″ in which R″ is a divalent aliphatic hydrocarbon-based chain containing from 1 to 8 carbon atoms, bonded to the silicon atom and R′″ is a hydrogen atom or an alkyl radical containing from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, preferably a hydrogen atom; groups R′ that may be mentioned include vinyl and allylic groups and mixtures thereof; or
  - an unsaturated cyclic hydrocarbon-based group containing from 5 to 8 carbon atoms, for instance a cyclohexenyl group.

Preferably, R′ is an unsaturated aliphatic hydrocarbon-based group, preferably a vinyl group.
According to one particular embodiment, the polyorganosiloxane also comprises units of formula:
$\begin{matrix} R_{n} SiO \frac{(4 - n)}{2} & (II) \end{matrix}$
in which R is a group as defined above, and n is equal to 1, 2 or 3.
According to one variant, compound X may be a silicone resin comprising at least two ethylenic unsaturations, the said resin being capable of reacting with compound Y via hydrosilylation. Examples that may be mentioned include resins of MQ or MT type themselves bearing —CH═CH₂unsaturated reactive ends.
These resins are crosslinked organosiloxane polymers.
The nomenclature of silicone resins is known under the name “MDTQ”, the resin being described as a function of the various siloxane monomer units it comprises, each of the letters M, D, T and Q characterizing a type of unit.
The letter M represents the monofunctional unit of formula (CH₃)₃SiO_1/2, the silicon atom being bonded to only one oxygen atom in the polymer comprising this unit.
The letter D means a difunctional unit (CH₃)₂SiO_2/2in which the silicon atom is bonded to two oxygen atoms.
The letter T represents a trifunctional unit of formula (CH₃)₁SiO_3/2.
In the units M, D and T defined above, at least one of the methyl groups may be substituted with a group R other than a methyl group, such as a hydrocarbon-based radical (especially alkyl) containing from 2 to 10 carbon atoms or a phenyl group, or alternatively a hydroxyl group.
Finally, the letter Q means a tetrafunctional unit SiO_4/2in which the silicon atom is bonded to four hydrogen atoms, which are themselves bonded to the rest of the polymer. Examples of such resins that may be mentioned include MT silicone resins such as poly(phenylvinylsilsesquioxane), for instance the product sold under the reference SST-3PV1 by the company Gelest.
Preferably, compounds X comprise from 0.01% to 1% by weight of unsaturated aliphatic groups.
Advantageously, compound X is chosen from polyorgano-polysiloxanes, especially those comprising the siloxane units (I) and optionally (II) described above.
Compound Y preferably comprises at least two free Si—H groups (hydrogenosilane groups).
Compound Y may be chosen advantageously from organo-siloxanes comprising at least one alkylhydrogenosiloxane unit having the following formula:
$\begin{matrix} R_{p} HSiO \frac{(3 - p)}{2} & (III) \end{matrix}$
in which:
R represents a linear or cyclic monovalent hydrocarbon-based group containing from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, for instance an alkyl radical containing from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 20 and better still from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, in particular a methyl radical, or alternatively a phenyl group, and p is equal to 1 or 2. Preferably, R is a hydrocarbon-based group, preferably methyl.
These organosiloxane compounds Y containing alkyl-hydrogenosiloxane units may also comprise units of formula:
$\begin{matrix} R_{n} SiO \frac{(4 - n)}{2} & (II) \end{matrix}$
as defined above.
Compound Y may be a silicone resin comprising at least one unit chosen from the units M, D, T and Q as defined above and comprising at least one Si—H group, such as the poly(methylhydridosilsesquioxanes) sold under the reference SST-3 MH1.1 by the company Gelest.
Preferably, these organosiloxane compounds Y comprise from 0.5% to 2.5% by weight of Si—H groups.
Advantageously, the radicals R represent a methyl group in formulae (I), (II) and (III) above.
Preferably, these organosiloxanes Y comprise end groups of formula (CH₃)₃SiO_1/2.
Advantageously, the organosiloxanes Y comprise at least two alkylhydrogenosiloxane units of formula (H₃C)(H)SiO and optionally comprise (H₃C)₂SiO units.
Such organosiloxane compounds Y containing hydrogensilane groups are described, for example, in document EP 0 465 744.
According to one variant, compound X is chosen from organic oligomers or polymers (the term “organic” means compounds whose main chain is not silicone-based, preferably compounds comprising no silicon atoms) or from organic/silicone hybrid polymers or oligomers, the said oligomers or polymers bearing at least 2 reactive unsaturated aliphatic groups, compound Y being chosen from the hydrogenosiloxanes mentioned above.
Compound X, of organic nature, may then be chosen from vinyl or (meth)acrylic polymers or oligomers, polyesters, polyurethanes and/or polyureas, polyethers, perfluoropolyethers, polyolefins such as polybutene or polyisobutylene, dendrimers and organic hyperbranched polymers, or mixtures thereof.
In particular, the organic polymer or the organic part of the hybrid polymer may be chosen from the following polymers:

a) ethylenically unsaturated polyesters:

This is a group of polymers of polyester type containing at least two ethylenic double bonds, randomly distributed in the main polymer chain. These unsaturated polyesters are obtained by polycondensation of a mixture:

- of linear or branched aliphatic or cycloaliphatic dicarboxylic acids especially containing from 3 to 50 carbon atoms, preferably from 3 to 20 and better from 3 to 10 carbon atoms, such as adipic acid or sebacic acid, of aromatic dicarboxylic acids especially containing from 8 to 50 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 20 and better from 8 to 14 carbon atoms, such as phthalic acids, especially terephthalic acid, and/or of dicarboxylic acids derived from ethylenically unsaturated fatty acid dimers such as the oleic or linoleic acid dimers described in patent application EP-A-959 066 (paragraph [0021]) sold under the names Pripol by the company Uniqema or Empol by the company Henkel, all these diacids needing to be free of polymerizable ethylenic double bonds,
- of linear or branched aliphatic or cycloaliphatic diols especially containing from 2 to 50 carbon atoms, preferably from 2 to 20 and better from 2 to 10 carbon atoms, such as ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol, propylene glycol, 1,4-butanediol or cyclohexanedimethanol, of aromatic diols containing from 6 to 50 carbon atoms, preferably from 6 to 20 and better from 6 to 15 carbon atoms, such as bisphenol A and bisphenol B, and/or of diol dimers obtained from the reduction of fatty acid dimers as defined above, and
- of one or more dicarboxylic acids or anhydrides thereof comprising at least one polymerizable ethylenic double bond and containing from 3 to 50 carbon atoms, preferably from 3 to 20 and better from 3 to 10 carbon atoms, such as maleic acid, fumaric acid or itaconic acid.
b) polyesters containing (meth)acrylate side groups and/or end groups:

This is a group of polymers of polyester type obtained by polycondensation of a mixture:

- of linear or branched aliphatic or cycloaliphatic dicarboxylic acids especially containing from 3 to 50 carbon atoms, preferably from 3 to 20 and better from 3 to 10 carbon atoms, such as adipic acid or sebacic acid, of aromatic dicarboxylic acids especially containing from 8 to 50 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 20 and better from 8 to 14 carbon atoms, such as phthalic acids, especially terephthalic acid, and/or of dicarboxylic acids derived from ethylenically unsaturated fatty acid dimers such as the oleic acid or linoleic acid dimers described in patent application EP-A-959 066 (paragraph [0021]) sold under the names Pripol® by the company Uniqema or Empol® by the company Henkel, all these diacids needing to be free of polymerizable ethylenic double bonds,
- of linear or branched aliphatic or cycloaliphatic diols especially containing from 2 to 50 carbon atoms, preferably from 2 to 20 and better from 2 to 10 carbon atoms, such as ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol, propylene glycol, 1,4-butanediol or cyclohexanedimethanol, of aromatic diols containing from 6 to 50 carbon atoms, preferably from 6 to 20 and better from 6 to 15 carbon atoms, such as bisphenol A and bisphenol B, and
- of at least one ester of (meth)acrylic acid and of a diol or polyol containing from 2 to 20 carbon atoms and preferably from 2 to 6 carbon atoms, such as 2-hydroxyethyl (meth)acrylate, 2-hydroxypropyl (meth)acrylate or glycerol methacrylate.

These polyesters differ from those described above in point a) by the fact that the ethylenic double bonds are not located in the main chain but on side groups or at the end of the chains. These ethylenic double bonds are those of the (meth)acrylate groups present in the polymer.
Such polyesters are sold, for example, by the company UCB under the names Ebecryl® (Ebecryl® 450: molar mass 1600, on average 6 acrylate functions per molecule, Ebecryl® 652: molar mass 1500, on average 6 acrylate functions per molecule, Ebecryl® 800: molar mass 780, on average 4 acrylate functions per molecule, Ebecryl® 810: molar mass 1000, on average 4 acrylate functions per molecule, Ebecryl® 50 000: molar mass 1500, on average 6 acrylate functions per molecule).

c) polyurethanes and/or polyureas containing (meth)-acrylate groups, obtained by polycondensation
- of aliphatic, cycloaliphatic and/or aromatic diisocyanates, triisocyanates and/or polyisocyanates especially containing from 4 to 50 and preferably from 4 to 30 carbon atoms, such as hexamethylene diisocyanate, isophorone diisocyanate, toluene diisocyanate, diphenylmethane diisocyanate or isocyanurates of formula

resulting from the trimerization of 3 molecules of diisocyanates OCN—R—CNO, in which R is a linear, branched or cyclic hydrocarbon-based radical comprising from 2 to 30 carbon atoms;

- of polyols, especially of diols, free of polymerizable ethylenic unsaturations, such as 1,4-butanediol, ethylene glycol or trimethylolpropane, and/or of aliphatic, cycloaliphatic and/or aromatic polyamines, especially diamines, especially containing from 3 to 50 carbon atoms, such as ethylenediamine or hexamethylenediamine, and
- of at least one ester of (meth)acrylic acid and of a diol or polyol containing from 2 to 20 carbon atoms and preferably from 2 to 6 carbon atoms, such as 2-hydroxyethyl (meth)acrylate, 2-hydroxypropyl (meth)acrylate or glycerol methacrylate.

Such polyurethanes/polyureas containing acrylate groups are sold, for example, under the name SR 368 (tris(2-hydroxyethyl)isocyanurate-triacrylate) or Craynor® 435 by the company Cray Valley, or under the name Ebecryl® by the company UCB (Ebecryl® 210: molecular mass 1500, 2 acrylate functions per molecule, Ebecryl® 230: molecular mass 5000, 2 acrylate functions per molecule, Ebecryl® 270: molecular mass 1500, 2 acrylate functions per molecule, Ebecryl® 8402: molecular mass 1000, 2 acrylate functions per molecule, Ebecryl® 8804: molecular mass 1300, 2 acrylate functions per molecule, Ebecryl® 220: molecular mass 1000, 6 acrylate functions per molecule, Ebecryl® 2220: molecular mass 1200, 6 acrylate functions per molecule, Ebecryl® 1290: molecular mass 1000, 6 acrylate functions per molecule, Ebecryl® 800: molecular mass 800, 6 acrylate functions per molecule).
Mention may also be made of the water-soluble aliphatic diacrylate polyurethanes sold under the names Ebecryl® 2000, Ebecryl® 2001 and Ebecryl® 2002, and the diacrylate polyurethanes in aqueous dispersion sold under the trade names IRR® 390, IRR® 400, IRR® 422 and IRR® 424 by the company UCB.
d) polyethers containing (meth)acrylate groups obtained by esterification, with (meth)acrylic acid, of the hydroxyl end groups of C_1-4alkylene glycol homopolymers or copolymers, such as polyethylene glycol, polypropylene glycol, copolymers of ethylene oxide and of propylene oxide preferably having a weight-average molecular mass of less than 10,000, and polyethoxylated or polypropoxylated trimethylolpropane.
Polyoxyethylene di(meth)acrylates of suitable molar mass are sold, for example, under the names SR 259, SR 344, SR 610, SR 210, SR 603 and SR 252 by the company Cray Valley or under the name Ebecryl® 11 by UCB. Polyethoxylated trimethylolpropane triacrylates are sold, for example, under the names SR 454, SR 498, —SR 502, SR 9035 and SR 415 by the company Cray Valley or under the name Ebecryl® 160 by the company UCB. Polypropoxylated trimethylolpropane triacrylates are sold, for example, under the names SR 492 and SR 501 by the company Cray Valley.

e) epoxyacrylates obtained by reaction between
- at least one diepoxide chosen, for example, from:
  - (i) bisphenol A diglycidyl ether,
  - (ii) a diepoxy resin resulting from the reaction between bisphenol A diglycidyl ether and epichlorohydrin,
  - (iii) an epoxy ester resin containing α,ω-diepoxy end groups resulting from the condensation of a dicarboxylic acid containing from 3 to 50 carbon atoms with a stoichiometric excess of (i) and/or (ii),
  - (iv) an epoxy ether resin containing α,ω-diepoxy end groups resulting from the condensation of a diol containing from 3 to 50 carbon atoms with a stoichiometric excess of (i) and/or (ii),
  - (v) natural or synthetic oils bearing at least 2 epoxide groups, such as epoxidized soybean oil, epoxidized linseed oil or epoxidized vernonia oil,
  - (vi) a phenol-formaldehyde polycondensate (Novolac® resin), the end groups and/or side groups of which have been epoxidized,
    and
- one or more carboxylic acids or polycarboxylic acids comprising at least one ethylenic double bond in the α,β-position relative to the carboxylic group, for instance (meth)acrylic acid or crotonic acid or esters of (meth)acrylic acid and of a diol or polyol containing from 2 to 20 carbon atoms and preferably from 2 to 6 carbon atoms, such as 2-hydroxyethyl (meth)acrylate.

Such polymers are sold, for example, under the names SR 349, SR 601, CD 541, SR 602, SR 9036, SR 348, CD 540, SR 480 and CD 9038 by the company Cray Valley, under the names Ebecryl® 600, Ebecryl® 609, Ebecryl® 150, Ebecryl® 860 and Ebecryl® 3702 by the company UCB and under the names Photomer® 3005 and Photomer® 3082 by the company Henkel.

f) poly(C_1-50alkyl (meth)acrylates), the said alkyl being linear, branched or cyclic, comprising at least two functions containing an ethylenic double bond borne by the hydrocarbon-based side chains and/or end chains.

Such copolymers are sold, for example, under the names IRR® 375, OTA® 480 and Ebecryl® 2047 by the company UCB.

g) polyolefins such as polybutene or polyisobutylene,
h) perfluoropolyethers containing acrylate groups obtained by esterification, for example with (meth)acrylic acid, of perfluoropolyethers bearing hydroxyl side groups and/or end groups.

Such α,ω-diol perfluoropolyethers are described especially in EP-A-1 057 849 and are sold by the company Ausimont under the name Fomblin® Z Diol.

i) hyperbranched dendrimers and polymers bearing (meth)acrylate or (meth)acrylamide end groups obtained, respectively, by esterification or amidation of hyperbranched dendrimers and polymers containing hydroxyl or amino end functions, with (meth)acrylic acid.

Dendrimers (from the Greek dendron=tree) are “arborescent”, i.e. highly branched, polymer molecules invented by D. A. Tomalia and his team at the start of the 1990s (Donald A. Tomalia et al., Angewandte Chemie, Int. Engl. Ed., Vol. 29, No. 2, pages 138-175). These are structures constructed about a central unit that is generally polyvalent. About this central unit are linked, in a fully determined structure, branched chain-extending units, thus giving rise to monodispersed symmetrical macromolecules having a well-defined chemical and stereochemical structure. Dendrimers of polyamidoamine type are sold, for example, under the name Starburst® by the company Dendritech.
Hyperbranched polymers are polycondensates, generally of polyester, polyamide or polyethyleneamine type, obtained from multifunctional monomers, which have an arborescent structure similar to that of dendrimers but are much less regular than dendrimers (see, for example, WO-A-93/17060 and WO 96/12754).
The company Perstorp sells hyperbranched polyesters under the name Boltorn®. Hyperbranched polyethylene-amines will be found under the name Comburst® from the company Dendritech. Hyperbranched poly(esteramides) containing hydroxyl end groups are sold by the company DSM under the name Hybrane®.
These hyperbranched dendrimers and polymers esterified or amidated with acrylic acid and/or methacrylic acid are distinguished from the polymers described in points a) to h) above by the very large number of ethylenic double bonds present. This high functionality, usually greater than 5, makes them particularly useful by allowing them to act as “crosslinking nodes”, i.e. sites of multiple crosslinking.
These dendritic and hyperbranched polymers may thus be used in combination with one or more of the polymers and/or oligomers a) to h) above.
1a—Additional Reactive Compounds
According to one embodiment, the compositions comprising compound X and/or Y may also comprise an additional reactive compound such as:

- organic or mineral particles comprising at their surface at least 2 unsaturated aliphatic groups: mention may be made, for example, of silicas surface-treated, for example, with silicone compounds containing vinyl groups, for instance cyclotetramethyltetravinylsiloxane-treated silica,
- silazane compounds such as hexamethyldisilazane.

1b—Catalyst
The hydrosilylation reaction is advantageously performed in the presence of a catalyst that may be present in the composition in accordance with the invention, the catalyst preferably being platinum-based or tin-based.
Examples that may be mentioned include platinum-based catalysts deposited on a support of silica gel or charcoal powder (coal), platinum chloride, platinum salts and chloroplatinic acids.
Chloroplatinic acids in hexahydrate or anhydrous form, which are readily dispersible in organosilicone media, are preferably used.
Mention may also be made of platinum complexes such as those based on chloroplatinic acid hexahydrate and on divinyltetramethyldisiloxane.
The catalyst may be present in one or the other of the compositions useful in the present invention in a content ranging from 0.0001% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition comprising it.
Polymerization inhibitors or retardants, and more particularly catalyst inhibitors, may also be introduced into the compositions of the invention, in order to increase the stability of the composition over time or to retard the polymerization. Non-limiting examples that may be mentioned include cyclic polymethylvinylsiloxanes, in particular tetravinyltetramethylcyclotetrasiloxane, and acetylenic alcohols, which are preferably volatile, such as methylisobutynol.
The presence of ionic salts, such as sodium acetate, in the composition may have an influence on the rate of polymerization of the compounds.
Advantageously, compounds X and Y are chosen from silicone compounds capable of reacting via hydrosilylation; in particular, compound X is chosen from polyorganosiloxanes comprising units of formula (I) described above and compound Y is chosen from organosiloxanes comprising alkylhydrogenosiloxane units of formula (III) described above.
According to one particular embodiment, compound X is a polydimethylsiloxane containing vinyl end groups and compound Y is methylhydrogensiloxane.
As examples of combinations of compounds X and Y that react via hydrosilylation, mention may be made of the following references sold by the company Dow Corning: DC7-9800 Soft Skin Adhesive Parts A & B, and also the following mixtures A and B prepared by Dow Corning:
Mixture A:


		Content
Ingredient (INCI name)	CAS No.	(weight %)	Function

Dimethylsiloxane,	68083-19-2	55-95	Polymer
Dimethylvinylsiloxy-terminated
Silica Silylate	68909-20-6	10-40	Filler
1,3-Diethenyl-1,1,3,3-Tetra-	68478-92-2	Trace	Catalyst
methyldisiloxane complexes
Tetramethyldivinyldisiloxane	2627-95-4	0.1-1	Polymer

Mixture B:


		Content
Ingredient (INCI name)	CAS No.	(weight %)	Function

Dimethylsiloxane,	68083-19-2	55-95	Polymer
Dimethylvinylsiloxy-terminated
Silica Silylate	68909-20-6	10-40	Filler
Dimethyl,	68037-59-2	1-10	Polymer
Methylhydrogensiloxane,
trimethylsiloxy-terminated

2—Compounds X and Y Capable of Reacting Via Condensation
According to this embodiment, compounds X and Y are capable of reacting via condensation, either in the presence of water (hydrolysis) by reaction of 2 compounds bearing alkoxysilane groups, or via “direct” condensation by reaction of a compound bearing alkoxy-silane group(s) and a compound bearing silanol group(s) or by reaction of 2 compounds bearing silanol group(s).
When the condensation is performed in the presence of water, this water may in particular be ambient moisture, the residual water of the keratin fibres, or water provided by an external source, for example by premoistening the keratin fibres (for example with a mister).
In this mode of reaction via condensation, compounds X and Y, which may be identical or different, may thus be chosen from silicone compounds whose main chain comprises at least two alkoxysilane groups and/or at least two silanol (Si—OH) groups, on the side and/or at the end of the chain.
According to one advantageous embodiment, compounds X and/or Y are chosen from polyorganosiloxanes comprising at least two alkoxysilane groups. The term “alkoxysilane group” means a group comprising at least one —Si—OR portion, R being an alkyl group containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms.
Compounds X and Y are especially chosen from poly-organosiloxanes comprising alkoxysilane end groups, more specifically those comprising at least 2 alkoxysilane end groups and preferably trialkoxysilane end groups.
These compounds X and/or Y preferably predominantly comprise units of formula:
R⁹ _sSiO_(4-s)/2, (IV)
in which R⁹independently represents a radical chosen from alkyl groups containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, phenyl and fluoroalkyl groups, and s is equal to 0, 1, 2 or 3. Preferably, R⁹independently represents an alkyl group containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms. Alkyl groups that may especially be mentioned include methyl, propyl, butyl, and hexyl, and mixtures thereof, preferably methyl or ethyl. A fluoroalkyl group that may be mentioned is 3,3,3-trifluoropropyl.
According to one particular embodiment, compounds X and Y, which may be identical or different, are polyorganosiloxanes comprising units of formula:
(R⁹ ₂SiO₂)_f (V)
in which R⁹is as described above, preferably R⁹is a methyl radical, and
f is such that the polymer advantageously has a viscosity at 25° C. ranging from 0.5 to 3000 Pa·s and preferably ranging from 5 to 150 Pa·s and/or
f is especially a number ranging from 2 to 5000, particularly from 3 to 3000 and more particularly from 5 to 1000.
These polyorganosiloxane compounds X and Y comprise at least 2 trialkoxysilane end groups per polymer molecule, the said groups having the following formula:
—ZSiR¹ _x(OR)_3-x, (VI)
in which:
the radicals R independently represent a methyl, ethyl, n-propyl, isopropyl, n-butyl, sec-butyl or isobutyl group, preferably a methyl or ethyl group,
R¹is a methyl or ethyl group,
x is equal to 0 or 1 and preferably x is equal to 0, and
Z is chosen from: divalent hydrocarbon-based groups not comprising any ethylenic unsaturation and containing from 2 to 18 carbon atoms (alkylene groups), combinations of divalent hydrocarbon-based radicals and of siloxane segments of formula (IX) below:
R⁹being as described above, G is a divalent hydrocarbon-based radical not comprising any ethylenic unsaturation and containing from 2 to 18 carbon atoms and c is an integer ranging from 1 to 6.
Z and G may be chosen especially from alkylene groups such as ethylene, propylene, butylene, pentylene and hexylene, and arylene groups such as phenylene.
Preferably, Z is an alkylene group, and better still ethylene.
These polymers may contain on average at least 1.2 tri-alkoxysilane end groups or end chains per molecule, and preferably on average at least 1.5 trialkoxysilane end groups per molecule. Since these polymers may contain at least 1.2 trialkoxysilane end groups per molecule, some may comprise other types of end groups such as end groups of formula CH₂═CH═SiR⁹ ₂— or of formula R⁶ ₃—Si—, in which R⁹is as defined above and each group R⁶is independently chosen from groups R⁹and vinyl. Examples of such end groups that may be mentioned include trimethoxysilane, triethoxysilane, vinyldimethoxysilane and vinylmethyloxyphenylsilane groups.
Such polymers are especially described in documents U.S. Pat. No. 3,175,993, U.S. Pat. No. 4,772,675, U.S. Pat. No. 4,871,827, U.S. Pat. No. 4,888,380, U.S. Pat. No. 4,898,910, U.S. Pat. No. 4,906,719 and U.S. Pat. No. 4,962,174, the content of which is incorporated into the present patent application by reference.
As compound X and/or Y, mention may be made in particular of the polymer of formula
in which R, R¹, R⁹, Z, x and f are as described above.
Compounds X and/or Y may also comprise a mixture of polymer of formula (VII) above with polymers of formula (VIII) below:
in which R, R¹, R⁹, Z, x and f are as described above.
When the polyorganosiloxane compound X and/or Y containing alkoxysilane group(s) comprises such a mixture, the various polyorganosiloxanes are present in contents such that the organosilyl end chains represent less than 40% and preferably less than 25% by number of the end chains.
The polyorganosiloxane compounds X and/or Y that are particularly preferred are those of formula (VII) described above. Such compounds X and/or Y are described, for example, in document WO 01/96450.
As indicated above, compounds X and Y may be identical or different.
According to one variant, one of the two reactive compounds X or Y is of silicone nature and the other is of organic nature. For example, compound X is chosen from organic oligomers or polymers or organic/silicone hybrid oligomers or polymers, the said polymers or oligomers comprising at least two alkoxysilane groups, and Y is chosen from silicone compounds such as the polyorganosiloxanes described above. In particular, the organic oligomers or polymers are chosen from vinyl, (meth)acrylic, polyester, polyamide, polyurethane and/or polyurea, polyether, polyolefin or, perfluoropolyether oligomers or polymers, and hyperbranched organic dendrimers and polymers, and mixtures thereof.
The organic polymers of vinyl or (meth)acrylic nature bearing alkoxysilane side groups may in particular be obtained via copolymerization of at least one organic vinyl or (meth)acrylic monomer with a (meth)acryloxypropyltrimethoxysilane, a vinyltrimethoxysilane, a vinyltriethoxysilane, an allyltrimethoxysilane, etc.
Examples that may be mentioned include the (meth)acrylic polymers described in the document by Kusabe, M., Pitture e Verniei—European Coating; 12-B, pages 43-49, 2005, and especially the polyacrylates containing alkoxysilane groups referenced as MAX from Kaneka or those described in the publication by Probster, M., Adhesion-Kleben & Dichten, 2004, 481 (1-2), pages 12-14.
The organic polymers resulting from a polycondensation or a polyaddition, such as polyesters, polyamides, polyurethanes and/or polyureas, and polyethers, and bearing alkoxysilane side and/or end groups, may result, for example, from the reaction of an oligomeric prepolymer as described above with one of the following silane coreagents bearing at least one alkoxysilane group: aminopropyltrimethoxysilane, aminopropyltriethoxysilane, aminoethylaminopropyltrimethoxysilane, glycidoxypropyltrimethoxysilane, glycidoxypropyltriethoxysilane, epoxycyclohexylethyltrimethoxysilane, mercaptopropyltrimethoxysilane.
Examples of polyethers and polyisobutylenes containing alkoxysilane groups are described in the publication by Kusabe, M., Pitture e Verniei—European Coating; 12-B, pages 43-49, 2005. As examples of polyurethanes containing alkoxysilane end groups, mention may be made of those described in the document by Probster, M., Adhesion-Kleben & Dichten, 2004, 481 (1-2) pages 12-14 or those described in the document by Landon, S., Pitture e Verniei vol. 73, No. 11, pages 18-24, 1997 or in the document by Huang, Mowo, Pitture e Verniei vol. 5, 2000, pages 61-67; mention may be made especially of the polyurethanes containing alkoxysilane groups from OSI-WITCO-GE.
Polyorganosiloxane compounds. X and/or Y that may be mentioned include resins of MQ or MT type themselves bearing alkoxysilane and/or silanol ends, for instance the poly(isobutylsilsesquioxane) resins functionalized with silanol groups sold under the reference SST-S7C41 (3 Si—OH groups) by the company Gelest.
2a—Additional Reactive Compounds
The composition in accordance with the present invention may also comprise an additional reactive compound comprising at least two alkoxysilane or silanol groups.
Mention may be made, for example, of one or more organic or mineral particles comprising at their surface alkoxysilane and/or silanol groups, for instance fillers surface-treated with such groups.
2b—Catalyst
The condensation reaction may be performed in the presence of a metal-based catalyst that may be present in the composition in accordance with the invention. The catalyst that is useful in this type of reaction is preferably a titanium-based catalyst.
Mention may be made especially of the tetraalkoxy-titanium-based catalysts of formula
Ti(OR²)_y(OR³)_4-y,
in which R²is chosen from tertiary alkyl radicals such as tert-butyl, tert-amyl and 2,4-dimethyl-3-pentyl; R³represents an alkyl radical containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably a methyl, ethyl, n-propyl, isopropyl, n-butyl, sec-butyl or hexyl group and y is a number ranging from 3 to 4 and better still from 3.4 to 4.
The catalyst may be present in the composition in accordance with the present invention in a content ranging from 0.0001% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition containing it.
2c—Diluent
The composition in accordance with the invention may also comprise a volatile silicone oil (or diluent) for reducing the viscosity of the composition. This oil may be chosen from short-chain linear silicones such as hexamethyldisiloxane or octamethyltrisiloxane, and cyclic silicones such as octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, and mixtures thereof.
This silicone oil may represent from 5% to 95% and preferably from 10% to 80% by weight relative to the weight of each composition.
As examples of a combination of compounds X and Y bearing alkoxysilane groups and reacting via condensation, mention may be made of the combination of mixtures A′ and B′ below prepared by the company Dow Corning:
Mixture A′:


Ingredient (INCI name)	CAS No.	Content (%)	Function

Bis-trimethoxysiloxyethyl	PMN87176	25-45	Polymer
tetramethyldisiloxyethyl
dimethicone (1)
Silica silylate	68909-20-6	5-20	Filler
Disiloxane	107-46-0	30-70	Solvent

Mixture B′:


Ingredient (INCI name)	CAS No.	Content (%)	Function

Disiloxane	107-46-0	80-99	Solvent
Tetra-t-butyl titanate	—	1-20	Catalyst

It should moreover be noted that the identical compounds X and Y are combined in the mixture A′.
3—Crosslinking in the Presence of Peroxide
This reaction is preferably performed by heating to a temperature of greater than or equal to 50° C., preferably greater than or equal to 80° C., which may be up to 120° C.
The identical or different compounds X and Y comprise in this case at least two —CH₃side groups and/or at least two side chains bearing a —CH₃group.
Compounds X and Y are preferably silicone compounds and may be chosen, for example, from high molecular weight non-volatile linear polydimethylsiloxanes, with a degree of polymerization of greater than 6, containing at least two —CH₃side groups bonded to the silicon atom and/or at least two side chains bearing a —CH₃group. Mention may be made, for example, of polymers described in the “Reactive Silicones” catalogue from the company Gelest Inc., Edition 2004, page 6, and especially vinylmethylsiloxane-dimethylsiloxane copolymers (also referred to as gums) with molecular weights ranging from 500 000 to 900 000 and a viscosity of greater than 2 000 000 cSt.
As peroxides that may be used in the context of the invention, mention may be made of benzoyl peroxide and 2,4-dichlorobenzoyl peroxide, and mixtures thereof.
According to one embodiment, the hydrosilylation reaction or the condensation reaction, or alternatively the crosslinking reaction in the presence of a peroxide, between compounds X and Y is accelerated by supplying heat, for example by raising the temperature of the system to between 25° C. and 180° C. The system will especially react on the skin.
In general, irrespective of the type of reaction via which compounds X and Y react together, the mole percentage of X relative to all of the compounds X and Y, i.e. the ratio X/(X+Y)×100, may range from 5% to 95%, preferably from 10% to 90% and better still from 20% to 80%.
Similarly, the mole percentage of Y relative to all of the compounds X and Y, i.e. the ratio Y/(X+Y)×100, may range from 5% to 95%, preferably from 10% to 90% and better still from 20% to 80%.
Compound X may have a weight-average molecular mass (Mw) ranging from 150 to 1 000 000, preferably from 200 to 800 000 and more preferably from 200 to 250 000.
Compound Y may have a weight-average molecular mass (Mw) ranging from 200 to 1 000 000, preferably from 300 to 800 000 and more preferably from 500 to 250 000.
Compound X may represent from 0.5% to 95%, preferably from 1% to 90% and better still from 5% to 80% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
Compound Y may represent from 0.05% to 95%, preferably from 0.1% to 90% and better still from 0.2% to 80% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
The ratio between the compounds X and Y may be varied so as to modify the rate of reaction and thus the rate of formation of the film, or alternatively so as to adapt the properties of the film formed (for example its adhesive properties) according to the desired application.
In particular, compounds X and Y may be present in an X/Y mole ratio ranging from 0.05 to 20 and better still from 0.1 to 10.
Texturizers
The composition applied to the hair fibres may also comprise one or more texturizers (fillers), other than the pigments present in the composition.
The term “texturizers” means mineral or synthetic, lamellar or non-lamellar, water-insoluble particles.
By way of example, these texturizers may be colloidal calcium carbonate, which may or may not be treated with stearic acid or stearate, silica such as fumed silicas, precipitated silicas and silicas treated to make them hydrophobic, ground quartz, alumina, aluminium hydroxide, diatomaceous earth, titanium dioxide, iron oxide or carbon black.
Mention may also be made of talc, mica, kaolin, polyamide (Nylon®) powders (Orgasol from Atochem), polyethylene powders, tetrafluoroethylene polymer (Teflon®) powders, starch, polymer microspheres such as those of polyvinylidene chloride/acrylonitrile, for instance Expancel (Nobel Industrie) or of acrylic acid copolymers (Polytrap® from the company Dow Corning).
Synthetic silicas whose surface is modified with silicone compounds to make the surface hydrophobic are particularly preferred. These fillers are distinguished from each other by their surface properties, the silicone compounds used to treat the silica, and the way in which the surface treatment is performed.
Such agents make it possible to modify the viscosity of the formulation obtained with compounds X and/or Y and/or to modify the properties of the material obtained.
Preferred texturizers include silica, calcium carbonate and resin-based agents.
Examples that may be mentioned include the treated silicas Cab-O-Sil® TS-530, Aerosil® R8200 and Wacker HDX H2000.
The texturizers may be present in a proportion of from 0 to 48% by weight, preferably 0.01% to 30% by weight and better still from 0.02% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
When compounds X and Y are capable of reacting together via a crosslinking reaction, at least one peroxide as described above is applied to the keratin fibres.
The peroxide(s) may be present in one or other or in several of the compositions already mentioned applied to the keratin fibres or in an additional composition, in which case the various compositions may be applied to the keratin fibres in any order.
According to one particular embodiment of the invention, at least one catalyst as defined above is applied to the keratin fibres to activate the reaction between the compound(s) X and the compound(s) Y.
For example, the catalyst(s) may be present in one or other or in several of the compositions already mentioned applied to the keratin fibres or in an additional composition, in which case the various compositions may be applied to the keratin fibres in any order.
The catalysts advantageously chosen are those described previously.
When at least one catalyst and/or at least one peroxide is applied to the keratin fibres, the compound(s) X and/or the compound(s) Y, the catalyst(s) and/or the peroxide(s) are not simultaneously stored in the same composition. However, they may be mixed together at the time of use.
According to another particular embodiment of the invention, at least one additional reactive compound is applied to the keratin fibres.
For example, the additional reactive compound(s) may be present in one or the other or in several of the compositions already mentioned applied to the keratin fibres or in an additional composition, in which case the various compositions may be applied to the keratin fibres in any order.
The various compositions used in the process in accordance with the invention may be applied to dry or wet hair.
Intermediate drying and/or rinsing may be performed between each application.
The use of the iron may take place between the applications of the separate compounds X and/or Y, containing compound X, on the one hand, and compound Y, on the other hand. The iron is preferably used after applying compounds X and Y.
Each composition that is useful in the process in accordance with the invention may also contain various conventional cosmetic additives.
Each composition that is useful in the process in accordance with the invention comprises a cosmetically acceptable medium, which conveys the compound(s) X and/or the compound(s) Y, and is chosen such that compounds X and Y are able to react with each other via a hydrosilylation, condensation or crosslinking reaction in the presence of peroxide after the application of the cosmetic composition to the hair.
The deposit thus formed has the advantage of having an expected low solubility. In addition, it shows good affinity for the surface of keratin fibres, which ensures better remanence of the deposit as a whole.
When compounds X and Y are applied separately, the deposit in coats obtained may also be advantageous for preserving the cosmetic or optical properties of the compound that constitutes the top part of the deposit.
According to the same processes, it is possible to produce multiple superpositions of coats of compounds X and Y alternately or otherwise to achieve the desired type of deposit (in terms of chemical nature, mechanical strength, thickness, appearance, feel, etc.).
Organic Solvents
The term “organic solvent” means an organic substance that is liquid at a temperature of 25° C. and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg), which is capable of dissolving another substance without chemically modifying it.
The organic solvent(s) that is (are) useful in the context of the invention is (are) different from the compounds X and Y used in the context of the present invention.
The organic solvent(s) is (are) chosen, for example, from aromatic alcohols such as benzyl alcohol, phenoxy-ethanol and phenylethyl alcohol; liquid fatty alcohols, especially of C₁₀-C₃₀; C₁-C₆alkanols such as ethanol, isopropanol, n-propanol, butanol, n-pentanol, 1,2-propanediol, 1,3-propanediol, 1-methoxy-2-propanol, 1-ethoxy-2-propanediol, 1,3- and 1,4-butanediol and 1,2-hexanediol; polyols and polyol ethers containing a free-OH function such as 2-butoxyethanol, propylene glycol, propylene glycol monomethyl ether, diethylene glycol monoethyl ether and monomethyl ether, ethylene glycol monoethyl ether, ethylene glycol monobutyl ether, neopentyl glycol, isoprene glycol, glycerol, glycol, dipropylene glycol, butylene glycol and butyl-diglycol; volatile silicones such as short-chain linear silicones such as hexamethyldisiloxane or octamethyl-trisiloxane, cyclic silicones such as octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane or dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, polydimethylsiloxanes optionally modified with alkyl and/or amine and/or imine and/or fluoroalkyl and/or carboxylic and/or betaine and/or quaternary ammonium functions; liquid modified polydimethylsiloxanes; mineral, organic or plant oils; alkanes and more particularly C₅-C₂₀alkanes; liquid fatty acids; liquid fatty esters and more particularly liquid fatty alkyl benzoates or salicylates.
The organic solvent(s) is (are) preferably chosen from organic oils; silicones such as volatile silicones, amino or non-amino silicone gums or oils, and mixtures thereof; mineral oils; plant oils such as olive oil, castor oil, rapeseed oil, coconut oil, wheatgerm oil, apricot kernel oil, avocado oil, macadamia oil, apricot oil, safflower oil, candlenut oil, camellina oil, tamanu oil, lemon oil or organic compounds such as C₅-C₂₀alkanes, acetone, methyl ethyl ketone, esters of liquid C₁-C₂₀acids and of C₁-C₈alcohols such as methyl acetate, butyl acetate, ethyl acetate and isopropyl myristate, dimethoxyethane, diethoxyethane, liquid C₁₀-C₃₀fatty alcohols such as oleyl alcohol, liquid esters of fatty alcohols or of fatty acids such as C₁₀-C₃₀fatty alkyl benzoates, and mixtures thereof; isononyl isononanoate, isostearyl malate, pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate, tridecyl trimellitate, polybutene oil, the mixture of cyclopentasiloxane (14.7% by weight)/polydimethylsiloxane dihydroxylated in the α and ω positions (85.3% by weight), or mixtures thereof.
According to one preferred embodiment, the organic solvent(s) is (are) chosen from silicones such as liquid polydimethylsiloxanes and modified liquid polydimethylsiloxanes, their viscosity at 25° C. being between 0.1 cSt and 1 000 000 cSt and more preferentially between 1 cSt and 30 000 cSt.
Mention will preferably be made of the following oils:

- the mixture of α,ω-dihydroxylated polydimethyl-siloxane/cyclopentadimethylsiloxane (14.7/85.3) sold by Dow Corning under the name DC 1501 Fluid;
- the mixture of α,ω-dihydroxylated polydimethyl-siloxane/polydimethylsiloxane sold by Dow Corning under the name DC 1503 Fluid;
- the mixture of dimethicone/cyclopentadimethylsiloxane sold by Dow Corning under the name DC 1411 Fluid or that sold by Bayer under the name SF1214;
- the cyclopentadimethylsiloxane sold by Dow Corning under the name DC245 Fluid;
  and the respective mixtures of these oils.

These organic solvents may serve as diluents for the polycondensation reactions.
The organic solvent(s) of the composition generally represent(s) from 0.01% to 99% and preferably from 50% to 99% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
Besides the organic solvent(s) the composition of the invention may contain water in a proportion ranging from 4% to 99% and preferably from 1% to 50% relative to the total weight of the composition. The composition of the invention may also be anhydrous, i.e. it may contain less than 1% by weight of water relative to the total weight of the composition.
The composition of the invention may also be in the form of an emulsion and/or may be encapsulated. When the composition is an emulsion, it is constituted, for example, of a dispersed or continuous phase, which may be water, C₁-C₄aliphatic alcohols or mixtures thereof and a water-insoluble organic phase.
The composition in accordance with the invention may also contain, besides compounds X and Y of the invention, at least one agent usually used in cosmetics chosen, for example, from reducing agents, fatty substances, plasticizers, softeners, antifoams, moisturizers, pigments, clays, mineral fillers, UV-screening agents, mineral colloids, peptizers, fragrances, preserving agents, anionic, cationic, nonionic or amphoteric surfactants, fixing or non-fixing polymers, polyols, proteins, vitamins, direct dyes, oxidation dyes, nacres or opacifiers, propellants, mineral or organic thickeners such as benzylidenesorbitol and N-acylamino acids, oxyethylenated or non-oxyethylenated waxes, paraffins, C₁₀-C₃₀solid fatty acids such as stearic acid, lauric acid, C₁₀-C₃₀fatty amides such as lauric diethanolamide, esters of solid fatty alcohols or of solid fatty acids, and optical brighteners.
This composition may be in various forms, such as in the form of lotions, sprays or mousses, and may be applied in the form of a shampoo or a hair conditioner.
In the case of sprays, the composition of the invention may contain a propellant. The propellant is constituted of the compressed or liquefied gases usually used for the preparation of aerosol compositions. Air, carbon dioxide, compressed nitrogen or a soluble gas such as dimethyl ether, halohydrocarbons (in particular fluoro-hydrocarbons) or non-halohydrocarbons, and mixtures thereof, will preferentially be used.
Pocket aerosols containing one or more pockets may also be used, where appropriate.
Preferably, compounds X and Y are applied to wet hair fibres.
Advantageously, after applying the composition(s) comprising X and Y, the said composition is left in place for a time of between 30 seconds and 60 minutes.
The pH of the composition(s) is generally between 2 and 13 and preferably between 4 and 10.
The pH of the composition may be adjusted using an alkaline agent, for instance aqueous ammonia, monoethanolamine, diethanolamine, triethanolamine, 1,3-propanediamine, an alkali metal or ammonium carbonate or bicarbonate, an organic carbonate such as guanidine carbonate, or an alkali metal hydroxide, or alternatively using an acidifying agent, for instance hydrochloric acid, acetic acid, lactic acid, oxalic acid or boric acid.
Generally, the composition applied to the hair fibres is applied in a proportion of from 0.05 to 0.3 g and preferably from 0.1 to 0.2 g of composition per gram of dry hair fibre.
For the purposes of the present invention, the term “iron” means a device for heating hair fibres by placing the said fibres and the heating device in contact.
The end of the iron that comes into contact with the hair has two surfaces that may be of different shapes. They may be plane (flat iron) or rounded (round iron). These two plane surfaces may be made of metal. They may be smooth or notched.
As examples of irons that may be used in the process according to the invention, mention may be made of irons of any type and in particular, in a non-limiting manner, those described in patents U.S. Pat. No. 4,103,145, U.S. Pat. No. 4,308,878, U.S. Pat. No. 5,983,903, U.S. Pat. No. 5,957,140, U.S. Pat. No. 5,494,058 and U.S. Pat. No. 5,046,516.
The iron may be applied by successive separate touches of a few seconds, or by gradually moving or sliding it along the locks.
Preferably, in the process according to the invention, the iron is applied by continuous movement from the root to the end, in one or more passes.
The process according to the invention may also comprise an additional step of partial pre-drying of the hair fibres before the step of raising the temperature, so as to avoid substantial evolution of steam that might burn the hands of the hairstylist and the scalp of the individual being treated. This pre-drying step may be performed, for example, using a hairdryer or a hood, or alternatively by natural drying.
As explained previously, the process according to the invention makes it possible to improve the level of smoothness of the hair and to prolong this effect over time.
A subject of the present invention is thus also the use of the process as described above for increasing the smoothness of hair fibres and prolonging the durability of the smoothness.
The invention is illustrated by the examples that follow.

EXAMPLES

Example 1

Condensation Reaction

Compositions 1 and 2 as defined below are prepared. In these composition examples, mixtures A′ and B′ below prepared by the company Dow Corning are used:
Mixture A′:


Ingredient (INCI name)	CAS No.	Contents (%)	Function

Bis-trimethylsiloxyethyl	PMN87176	25-45	Polymer
tetramethyldisiloxyethyl
dimethicone (1)
Silica silylate	68909-20-6	5-20	Filler
Disiloxane	107-46-0	30-70	Solvent

Mixture B′:


Ingredient (INCI name)	CAS No.	Contents (%)	Function

Disiloxane	107-46-0	80-99	Solvent
Tetra-t-butyl titanate	—	1-20	Catalyst

It should also be noted that the identical compounds X and Y are combined in mixture A′.

Example 2

Hydrosilylation Reaction

Compositions 3 and 4 as defined below are prepared. In these composition examples, the combination of mixtures A1 and B1 below prepared by the company Dow Corning are used:
Mixture A1:


Ingredient (INCI name)	CAS No.	Contents (%)	Function

Dimethylsiloxane,	68083-19-2	55-95	Polymer
dimethylvinylsiloxy-
terminated
Silica silylate	68909-20-6	10-40	Filler
1,3-Diethenyl-1,1,3,3-	68478-92-2	Trace	Catalyst
tetramethyldisiloxane
complexes
Tetramethyldivinyldisiloxane	2627-95-4	0.1-1	Polymer

Mixture B1:


Ingredient (INCI name)	CAS No.	Contents (%)	Function

Dimethylsiloxane,	68083-19-2	55-95	Polymer
dimethylvinylsiloxy-
terminated
Silica silylate	68909-20-6	10-40	Filler
Dimethyl, methylhydrogen	68037-59-2	1-10	Polymer
siloxane, trimethylsiloxy-
terminated

For Examples 1 and 2, the hair fibre treatment process according to the invention is performed.
The hair is treated according to the following process:

- application of the composition formed by A1+B1 for Example 1 and A2+B2 for Example 2, to wet hair, the composition representing about 0.15 g per gram of dry hair;
- pre-drying of the hair using a hairdryer until the hair is virtually dry (this is referred to as 80% pre-drying);
- passage of an iron (iron sold under the reference Techniliss Ioni Ceramic #PNC 228 by the company Velecta), in a continuous movement from the root to the end of the hair, in one or more passes; the temperature of the iron is about 210° C.

A smooth lock is obtained, the hairs of which are individualized.
The composition formed by A1+B1 for Example 1 may be replaced with the following composition, expressed in weight percentages:


	A1 + B1	37%
	Silicone D5 sold by Dow Corning	10%
	Styleze W20 sold by ISP	0.5%
	Genamin KDMP sold by Clariant	0.5%
	Cetylstearyl alcohol	2%
	Demineralized water	qs

The composition formed by A2+B2 for Example 2 may be replaced with the following composition, expressed in weight percentages:


	A2 + B2	2%
	Silicone D5 sold by Dow Corning	98%

After applying the same protocol as for Examples 1 and 2, very good smoothness is obtained, with very good staying power of the effects over time, without regaining any frizziness.

Claims

1. Hair fibre treatment process comprising the following steps:

application to the keratin fibres of at least one compound X and at least one compound Y, at least one of the compounds X and Y being a silicone compound, the said compounds X and Y being capable of reacting together via a hydrosilylation, condensation or crosslinking reaction in the presence of peroxide when they are placed in contact with each other;

raising the temperature of the keratin fibres, by means of a heating iron, to a temperature at least equal to 60° C., the raising of the temperature being performed before or after optional rinsing of the keratin fibres;

compound(s) X and compound(s) Y being applied to the keratin fibres using several compositions containing compound(s) X and compound(s) Y, alone or as a mixture, or using a single composition containing compound(s) X and compound(s) Y.

2-45. (canceled)