US20070246058A1

US20070246058A1 - Makeup and/or care kit

Info

Publication number: US20070246058A1
Application number: US11/783,834
Authority: US
Inventors: Sophie Bodelin
Original assignee: LOreal SA
Current assignee: LOreal SA
Priority date: 2006-04-21
Filing date: 2007-04-12
Publication date: 2007-10-25
Also published as: FR2900036A1; EP1847254A1; FR2900036B1; JP2007296331A

Abstract

The present invention relates to a kit for making up and/or caring for the eyelashes, characterized in that it comprises:

at least one composition (i) with a total content of wax(es) and of hydrophilic polymer(s) of less than or equal to 26% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition,

at least one composition (ii) with a total content of wax(es) and of hydrophilic film-forming polymer(s) of greater than 26% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition,

at least one of said compositions (i) and (ii) comprising a continuous aqueous phase, and in that it comprises a means for applying to the eyelash fringe, comprising a plurality of application members (6; 60) arranged on a support (5) in the form of at least one row whose length is such that the application members (6; 60) can at best simultaneously contact at most a quarter of the eyelashes of the fringe.

Description

This non provisional application claims the benefit of French Application No. 06 51410 filed on Apr. 21, 2006 and U.S. Provisional Application No. 60/797,670 filed on May 5, 2006.
The present invention relates to a kit for making up and/or caring for the eyelashes, comprising at least one cosmetic composition for making up and/or caring for the eyelashes and at least one charging cosmetic composition for making up and/or caring for the eyelashes, comprising a means for applying said charging cosmetic composition to only a portion of the eyelash fringe, and in particular at most the outer third of the eyelash fringe.
There is a need to obtain novel makeup effects on the eyelashes and especially to deposit mascara more substantially on only a portion of the eyelash fringe.
Using an applicator of standard brush or comb type, it may prove difficult to place a precise deposit of material on only a portion of the eyelashes, while avoiding the formation of lumps.
It may in fact be interesting, in order to obtain particular makeup effects, to work on deposits of contrasted material on unconnected areas of the eyelash fringe.
The inventors have found that by applying a larger amount of makeup on part of the eyelashes, in particular a large deposit of material on at most one third of the eyelash fringe, and more particularly on the outer part of the eyelash fringe, a particular makeup result is afforded which opens the gaze and enlarges the eyes, optically modifying the perception of the shape of the eyes. Such makeup comprising a larger deposit of material on at most a third of the fringe, on the exterior of the fringe, gives an impression of almond-shaped and elongated eyes, the outer corner of which is raised (“lifting” effect on the gaze).
The invention is thus directed toward a means for easily achieving this particular makeup objective.
According to one of its aspects, one subject of the present invention is thus a kit for making up and/or caring for the eyelashes, characterized in that it comprises:
at least one composition (i) with a total content of wax(es) and of hydrophilic polymer(s) of less than or equal to 26% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition,
at least one composition (ii) with a total content of wax(es) and of hydrophilic film-forming polymer(s) of greater than 26% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition,
at least one of said compositions (i) and (ii) comprising a continuous aqueous phase, and in that it comprises a means for applying to the eyelash fringe, comprising a plurality of application members (6; 60) arranged on a support (5) in the form of at least one row whose length is such that the application members (6; 60) can at best simultaneously contact at most a quarter of the eyelashes of the fringe.
The inventors have thus observed that the application to the eyelashes of composition (i) and of composition (ii), at least one of which is applied using this particular application means, and more preferentially composition (ii), makes it readily possible to produce a more volumizing or charging deposit on only part of the eyelash fringe, for example on at most the outer third of the eyelash fringe.
In particular, composition (i) makes it possible to obtain a smooth, uniform deposit, which is easy to apply, and which coats, separates and/or lengthens the eyelashes. Composition (i) makes it possible to obtain sparingly charging makeup, i.e. it does not thicken the eyelashes: a natural makeup result is thus obtained. It is thus possible to easily produce, on this first film of makeup, a more volumizing or charging deposit on only part of the eyelash fringe, for example on at most the outer third of the eyelash fringe, by applying composition (ii), which, by virtue of its total content of waxes and of hydrophilic polymer(s), makes it possible to obtain a larger deposit of material.
Thus, this kit makes it possible to accentuate the contrast between the makeup afforded by the deposit of composition (i) and that afforded by the deposit of composition (ii), while at the same time avoiding the formation of “blobs”, which are considered unaesthetic.
According to a second aspect, the present invention relates to a process for making up and/or for the non-therapeutic care of the eyelashes, characterized in that it comprises:
at least one step of applying to the eyelashes at least one coat of a composition (i) with a content of wax(es) and of hydrophilic polymer(s) of less than or equal to 26% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and
at least one step of applying at least one coat of a composition (ii) with a total content of wax(es) and of hydrophilic film-forming polymer(s) of greater than 26% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition,
at least one of said compositions (i) and (ii) comprising a continuous aqueous phase, and the step of applying composition (ii) being performed using the application means comprising a plurality of application members (6; 60) arranged on a support (5) in the form of at least one row whose length is such that the application members (6; 60) can at best simultaneously contact at most a quarter of the eyelashes of the fringe.
According to a third aspect, a subject of the present invention is a made-up support, such as false eyelashes, comprising a makeup that may be obtained according to the process as defined above.
The makeup kits in accordance with the invention comprise a physiologically acceptable medium, especially a cosmetically acceptable medium, i.e. a medium that is compatible in particular with the eyelashes and the area of the eyes.
The user may obtain the makeup effect by contrasted deposit of material by means of at least two application actions.
The order of application of composition (i) and of composition (ii) can vary. However, it is preferred to apply composition (i) before composition (ii).
Depending on the order of application, one or the other of the cosmetic compositions may be termed a “base coat” or a “top coat”.
In the context of the present invention, the term “cosmetically acceptable” means a compound whose use is compatible with application to the eyelashes.
For the purposes of the present invention, the term “fringe” denotes the eyelashes of the upper eyelid or those of the lower eyelid, from the inner corner to the outer corner of the eyelid, or the eyebrows of the eyebrow arch of one or other of the user's eyes.
The term “comprising one” should be understood as being synonymous with the expression “comprising at least one”, and the term “between” should be understood as including the limits, unless otherwise specified.
All the contents of components are expressed as solids.
The terms “application means” and “applicator” are used without preference in the rest of the description.
The term “composition with an aqueous continuous phase” means that the composition has a conductivity, measured at 25° C., of greater than 23 μS/cm (microSiemens/cm), the conductivity being measured, for example, using an MPC227 conductimeter from Mettler Toledo and an Inlab730 conductivity measuring cell. The measuring cell is immersed in the composition so as to remove the air bubbles that might be formed between the two electrodes of the cell. The conductivity reading is taken once the conductimeter value has stabilized. A mean is determined on at least three successive measurements.
According to one preferred embodiment, the two compositions (i) and (ii) comprise an aqueous continuous phase.
The compositions (i) in accordance with the invention have a total content of wax(es) and of hydrophilic polymer(s) of less than or equal to 26% by weight, preferably less than or equal to 24% by weight and better still less than or equal to 23.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
They may comprise a total content of wax(es) and of hydrophilic polymer(s) of greater than or equal to 10% by weight and preferably greater than or equal to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of composition (i).
According to one exemplary embodiment, compositions (ii) in accordance with the invention, preferably with an aqueous continuous phase, have a total content of wax(es) and of hydrophilic polymer(s) of greater than 26% by weight, preferably greater than or equal to 27% by weight and better still greater than or equal to 28% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
They may have a total content of wax(es) and of hydrophilic polymer(s) ranging up to 50% by weight relative to the total weight of composition (ii).
According to one particular embodiment of the invention, the kit is such that the difference between the total content of wax(es) and of hydrophilic polymer(s) of composition (ii) and the total content of wax(es) and of hydrophilic polymer(s) of composition (i) is greater than or equal to 2%, or even 3%, and better still 4% as an absolute value.
Waxes
For the purposes of the present invention, the term “wax” means a lipophilic compound, which is solid at room temperature (25° C.), with a reversible solid/liquid change of state, which has a melting point of greater than or equal to 30° C., which may be up to 120° C.
The melting point of the wax may be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example the calorimeter sold under the name DSC 30 by the company Mettler.
The waxes may be hydrocarbon-based waxes, fluoro waxes and/or silicone waxes and may be of plant, mineral, animal and/or synthetic origin. In particular, the waxes have a melting point of greater than 25° C. and better still greater than 45° C.
The wax may be present in a content ranging from 0.1% to 50% by weight, better still from 1% to 40% and even better still from 5% to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of each composition (i) and (ii).
According to one exemplary embodiment of the invention, the content of wax(es) in composition (i) ranges from 1% to 40%, preferably from 5% to 30%, and better still from 8% to 25% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
According to one exemplary embodiment of the invention, the content of wax(es) in composition (ii) ranges from 5% to 40%, preferably from 15% to 30% and better still from 18% to 25% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
Thus, in a most particularly preferred manner, the kit comprises a composition (i) with a content of wax(es) of between 8% and 25% by weight relative to its total weight and a composition (ii) with a content of wax(es) of between 18% and 25% by weight relative to its total weight.
Hydrocarbon-based waxes, for instance beeswax, lanolin wax or Chinese insect wax; rice wax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, ouricury wax, esparto grass wax, cork fiber wax, sugarcane wax, Japan wax and sumach wax; montan wax, microcrystalline waxes, paraffins and ozokerite; polyethylene waxes, the waxes obtained by Fisher-Tropsch synthesis and waxy copolymers, and also esters thereof, may especially be used.
Mention may also be made of waxes obtained by catalytic hydrogenation of animal or plant oils containing linear or branched C₈-C₃₂fatty chains.
Among these waxes that may especially be mentioned are hydrogenated jojoba oil, isomerized jojoba oil such as the trans-isomerized partially hydrogenated jojoba oil manufactured or sold by the company Desert Whale under the commercial reference Iso-Jojoba-50®, hydrogenated sunflower oil, hydrogenated castor oil, hydrogenated coconut oil, hydrogenated lanolin oil and bis(1,1,1-trimethylolpropane)tetrastearate sold under the name Hest 2T-4S by the company Heterene, bis(1,1,1-trimethylolpropane)tetrabehenate sold under the name Hest 2T-4B by the company Heterene.
Mention may also be made of silicone waxes, for instance alkyl or alkoxy dimethicones containing from 16 to 45 carbon atoms, and fluoro waxes.
The wax obtained by hydrogenation of olive oil esterified with stearyl alcohol, sold under the name Phytowax Olive 18 L57 or else the waxes obtained by hydrogenation of castor oil esterified with cetyl alcohol sold under the names Phytowax ricin 16L64 and 22L73 by the company Sophim may also be used. Such waxes are described in patent application FR-A-2 792 190.
According to one particular embodiment, the compositions (i) or (ii) in accordance with the invention may comprise at least one “tacky” wax, i.e. a wax with a tack of greater than or equal to 0.7 N.s and a hardness of less than or equal to 3.5 MPa.
The use of a tacky wax may especially allow the production of a cosmetic composition that is easy to apply to the eyelashes, that attaches well to the eyelashes and that leads to the formation of a smooth, uniform and thickening makeup.
The tacky wax used may especially have a tack ranging from 0.7 N.s to 30 N.s, in particular greater than or equal to 1 N.s, especially ranging from 1 N.s to 20 N.s, in particular greater than or equal to 2 N.s, especially ranging from 2 N.s to 10 N.s and in particular ranging from 2 N.s to 5 N.s.
The tack of the wax is determined by measuring the change in force (compression force or stretching force) as a function of time, at 20° C., using the texturometer sold under the name TA-TX2i® by the company Rheo, equipped with a conical acrylic polymer spindle forming an angle of 45°.
The measuring protocol is as follows:
The wax is melted at a temperature equal to the melting point of the wax+10° C. The molten wax is poured into a container 25 mm in diameter and 20 mm deep. The wax is recrystallized at room temperature (25° C.) for 24 hours such that the surface of the wax is flat and smooth, and the wax is then stored for at least 1 hour at 20° C. before measuring the tack.
The texturometer spindle is displaced at a speed of 0.5 mm/s then penetrates the wax to a penetration depth of 2 mm. When the spindle has penetrated the wax to a depth of 2 mm, the spindle is held still for 1 second (corresponding to the relaxation time) and is then withdrawn at a speed of 0.5 mm/s.
During the relaxation time, the force (compression force) decreases greatly until it becomes zero, and then, during the withdrawal of the spindle, the force (stretching force) becomes negative and then rises again to the value 0. The tack corresponds to the integral of the curve of the force as a function of time for the part of the curve corresponding to negative values of the force (stretching force). The tack value is expressed in N.s.
The tacky wax that may be used generally has a hardness of less than or equal to 3.5 MPa, in particular ranging from 0.01 MPa to 3.5 MPa, especially ranging from 0.05 MPa to 3 MPa or even ranging from 0.1 MPa to 2.5 MPa.
The hardness is measured according to the protocol described previously.
A tacky wax that may be used is a C₂₀-C₄₀alkyl(hydroxystearyloxy)stearate (the alkyl group containing from 20 to 40 carbon atoms), alone or as a mixture, in particular a C₂₀-C₄₀alkyl 12-(12′-hydroxystearyloxy)stearate, of formula (II):
in which m is an integer ranging from 18 to 38, or a mixture of compounds of formula (II).
Such a wax is especially sold under the names Kester Wax K 82 P® and Kester Wax K 80 P® by the company Koster Keunen.
The waxes mentioned above generally have a starting melting point of less than 45° C.
The microcrystalline wax sold under the reference SP18 by the company Strahl & Pitsch, which has a hardness of about 0.46 MPa and a tack value of about 1 N.s, may also be used.
The wax(es) may be in the form of an aqueous microdispersion of wax. The expression “aqueous microdispersion of wax” means an aqueous dispersion of wax particles in which the size of said wax particles is less than or equal to about 1 μm.
Wax microdispersions are stable dispersions of colloidal wax particles, and are described especially in “Microemulsions Theory and Practice”, L. M. Prince Ed., Academic Press (1977) pages 21-32.
In particular, these wax microdispersions may be obtained by melting the wax in the presence of a surfactant, and optionally of a portion of water, followed by gradual addition of hot water with stirring. The intermediate formation of an emulsion of the water-in-oil type is observed, followed by a phase inversion, with final production of a microemulsion of the oil-in-water type. On cooling, a stable microdispersion of solid wax colloidal particles is obtained.
The wax microdispersions may also be obtained by stirring the mixture of wax, surfactant and water using stirring means such as ultrasound, high-pressure homogenizers or turbomixers.
The particles of the wax microdispersion preferably have mean sizes of less than 1 μm (especially ranging from 0.02 μm to 0.99 μm) and preferably less than 0.5 μm (especially ranging from 0.06 μm to 0.5 μm).
These particles consist essentially of a wax or a mixture of waxes. However, they may comprise a small proportion of oily and/or pasty fatty additives, a surfactant and/or a common liposoluble additive/active agent.
Hydrophilic Polymer
The hydrophilic polymer may be chosen in particular from hydrophilic film-forming polymers and hydrophilic gelling agents, and mixtures thereof, certain hydrophilic film-forming polymers also possibly serving as gelling agent.
In composition (i), the total content of hydrophilic polymer solids may be between 0.5% and 15% and preferably between 1% and 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
In composition (ii), the total content of hydrophilic polymer solids may be between 1% and 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
Kits containing a composition (i) with a total content of hydrophilic polymer(s) of between 1% and 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition and a composition (ii) with a total content of hydrophilic polymer(s) of between 1% and 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition are most particularly preferred in the context of the present invention.
I) Film-Forming Polymer
In the present invention, the term “film-forming polymer” means a polymer that is capable, by itself or in the presence of an auxiliary film-forming agent, of forming a macroscopically continuous film that adheres to the eyelashes, and preferably a cohesive film, and better still a film whose cohesion and mechanical properties are such that said film can be isolated and manipulated in isolation, for example when said film is made by pouring onto a nonstick surface, for instance a Teflon-coated or silicone-coated surface.
In general, the content of film-forming polymer solids in each of the compositions (i) or (ii) may range from 0.1% to 40%, preferably from 0.5% to 30% and better still from 1% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. The hydrophilic film-forming polymer may be a water-soluble polymer or may be in dispersion in an aqueous medium.
Among the film-forming polymers that may be used in the composition of the present invention, mention may be made of synthetic polymers, of free-radical type or of polycondensates type, and polymers of natural origin, and mixtures thereof.
Examples of water-soluble film-forming polymers that may be mentioned include:
proteins, for instance proteins of plant origin such as wheat or soybean proteins; proteins of animal origin such as keratins, for example keratin hydrolyzates and sulfonic keratins;
cellulose polymers such as hydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose, methylcellulose, ethylhydroxyethylcellulose and carboxymethylcellulose, and also quaternized cellulose derivatives;
acrylic polymers or copolymers, such as polyacrylates or polymethacrylates;
vinyl polymers, for instance polyvinylpyrrolidones, copolymers of methyl vinyl ether and of maleic anhydride, the copolymer of vinyl acetate and of crotonic acid, copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone and of vinyl acetate; copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone and of caprolactam; polyvinyl alcohol;
anionic, cationic, amphoteric or nonionic chitin or chitosan polymers;
gum arabics, guar gum, xanthan derivatives and karaya gum;
alginates and carrageenans;
glycoaminoglycans, and hyaluronic acid and derivatives thereof;
shellac resin, sandarac gum, dammar resins, elemi gums and copal resins;
deoxyribonucleic acid;
mucopolysaccharides such as chondroitin sulfates; and mixtures thereof.
The film-forming polymer may also be present in the composition in the form of particles dispersed in an aqueous phase, which is generally known as a latex or pseudolatex. The techniques for preparing these dispersions are well known to those skilled in the art.
Aqueous dispersions of film-forming polymer that may be used include the acrylic dispersions sold under the names Neocryl XK-90®, Neocryl A-1070®, Neocryl A-1090®, Neocryl BT-628, Neocryl A-1079® and Neocryl A-523® by the company Avecia-Neoresins, Dow Latex 432® by the company Dow Chemical, Daitosol 5000 AD® or Daitosol 5000 SJ® by the company Daito Kasey Kogyo; Syntran 5760® by the company Interpolymer, Allianz Opt® by the company Rohm & Haas or the aqueous polyurethane dispersions sold under the names Neorez R-981® and Neorez R-974® by the company Avecia-Neoresins, Avalure UR-405®, Avalure UR-410®, Avalure UR-425®, Avalure UR-450®, Sancure 875®, Avalure UR-445® and Sancure 2060® by the company Noveon, Impranil 85® by the company Bayer, Aquamere H-1511® by the company Hydromer; the sulfopolyesters sold under the brand name Eastman AQ® by the company Eastman Chemical Products, vinyl dispersions, for instance Mexomer PAM®, aqueous polyvinyl acetate dispersions, for instance Vinybran® from the company Nisshin Chemical or those sold by the company Union Carbide, aqueous dispersions of vinylpyrrolidone, dimethylaminopropylmethacrylamide and lauryldimethylpropylmethacrylamidoammonium chloride terpolymer, such as Styleze W from ISP, aqueous dispersions of polyurethane/polyacrylic hybrid polymers such as those sold under the references Hybridur® by the company Air Products or Duromer® from National Starch, and dispersions of core/shell type: for example those sold by the company Atofina under the reference Kynar (core: fluoro; shell: acrylic) or alternatively those described in document U.S. Pat. No. 5,188,899 (core: silica; shell: silicone), and mixtures thereof.
According to one particular embodiment, composition (i) or (ii) in accordance with the invention comprises, as hydrophilic film-forming polymers at least, a combination of a cationic polymer and an anionic polymer.
The cationic polymer may be chosen from quaternary cellulose ether derivatives, copolymers of cellulose with a water-soluble quaternary ammonia monomer, cyclopolymers, cationic polysaccharides, cationic silicone polymers, vinylpyrrolidone/dialkylaminoalkyl acrylate or methacrylate quaternized or non-quaternized copolymers, quaternary polymers of vinylpyrrolidone and of vinylimidazole, and polyaminoamides, and mixtures thereof.
Preferably, the cationic polymer is a hydroxy(C₁-C₄)alkylcellulose comprising quaternary ammonium groups.
The anionic polymer is advantageously chosen from:
A) homopolymers or copolymers of acrylic or methacrylic acid or salts thereof, copolymers of acrylic acid and of acrylamide and salts thereof, and the sodium salts of polyhydroxycarboxylic acids such as the copolymers of acrylic acid and of acrylamide sold in the form of their sodium salt under the names Reten® by the company Hercules, sodium polymethacrylate sold under the name Darvan No. 7 by the company Vanderbilt, and the sodium salts of polyhydroxycarboxylic acids sold under the name Hydagen F® by the company Henkel;
B) copolymers of acrylic or methacrylic acid with a monoethylenic monomer such as ethylene, styrene, vinyl esters, acrylic or methacrylic acid esters, optionally grafted onto a polyalkylene glycol such as polyethylene glycol; copolymers of this type comprising in their chain an optionally N-alkylated and/or hydroxyalkylated acrylamide unit, copolymers of acrylic acid and of a C₁-C₄alkyl methacrylate, and terpolymers of vinylpyrrolidone, of acrylic acid and of a C₁-C₂₀alkyl methacrylate;
C) copolymers derived from crotonic acid, such as those comprising in their chain vinyl acetate or propionate units and optionally other monomers such as allylic or methallylic esters, a vinyl ether or vinyl ester of a linear or branched saturated carboxylic acid with a long hydrocarbon-based chain, such as those comprising at least 5 carbon atoms, these polymers possibly being grafted;
D) polymers derived from maleic, fumaric or itaconic acid or anhydride with vinyl esters, vinyl ethers, vinyl halides, phenylvinyl derivatives or acrylic acid and esters thereof; copolymers of maleic, citraconic or itaconic anhydride and of an allylic or methallylic ester optionally comprising an acrylamide or methacrylamide group, an (x-olefin, acrylic or methacrylic esters, acrylic or methacrylic acid or vinylpyrrolidone in their chain, the anhydride functions being monoesterified or monoamidated;
E) polyacrylamides comprising carboxylate groups,
F) deoxyribonucleic acid;
G) copolymers of at least one dicarboxylic acid, of at least one diol and of at least one difunctional aromatic monomer bearing a group —SO₃M with M representing a hydrogen atom, an ammonium ion NH₄ ⁺ or a metal ion;
and mixtures thereof.
The anionic polymers that are more particularly preferred are chosen from non-crosslinked anionic polymers such as the methyl vinyl ether/monoesterified maleic anhydride copolymers sold under the name Gantrez ES 425 by the company ISP, the acrylic acid/ethyl acrylate/N-tert-butylacrylamide terpolymers sold under the name Ultrahold Strong by the company BASF, the copolymers of methacrylic acid and of methyl methacrylate sold under the name Eudragit L by the company Rohm Pharma, the vinyl acetate/vinyl tert-butylbenzoate/crotonic acid terpolymers and the crotonic acid/vinyl acetate/vinyl neododecanoate terpolymers sold under the name Resin 28-29-30 by the company National Starch, the copolymers of methacrylic acid and of ethyl acrylate sold under the name Luvimer MAEX or MAE by the company BASF, the vinylpyrrolidone/acrylic acid/lauryl methacrylate terpolymers sold under the name Acrylidone LM by the company ISP and the acrylic or methacrylic acid homopolymers sold, for example, under the name Versicol E 5 or poly(sodium methacrylate) sold under the name Darvan 7 by the company Vanderbilt, and mixtures thereof.
The anionic polymer is preferably a sodium polymethacrylate.
Each of the compositions (i) or (ii) in accordance with the invention may comprise a plasticizer that promotes the formation of a film with the film-forming polymer. Such a plasticizer may be chosen from any of the compounds known to those skilled in the art as being capable of filling the desired function.
II) Hydrophilic Gelling Agent
The hydrophilic gelling agents that may be used in the compositions according to the invention may be chosen from:
acrylic or methacrylic acid homopolymers or copolymers or salts and esters thereof and in particular the products sold under the names Versicol F® or Versicol K by the company Allied Colloid, Ultrahold 8® by the company Ciba-Geigy, and polyacrylic acids of Synthalen K type,
the copolymers of acrylic acid and of acrylamide sold in the form of the sodium salt thereof under the name Reten® by the company Hercules and the sodium salts of polyhydroxycarboxylic acids sold under the name Hydagen F® by the company Henkel,
polyacrylic acid/alkyl acrylate copolymers of Pemulen type,
AMPS (polyacrylamidomethylpropanesulfonic acid partially neutralized with aqueous ammonia and highly crosslinked) sold by the company Clariant,
AMPS/acrylamide copolymers of Sepigel® or Simulgel® type sold by the company SEPPIC, and
AMPS/polyoxyethylenated alkyl methacrylate copolymers (crosslinked or noncrosslinked), and mixtures thereof.
Certain water-soluble film-forming polymers mentioned above may also act as water-soluble gelling agent:
associative polyurethanes such as the polymer C₁₆-OE₁₂₀-C₁₆from the company Servo Delden (sold under the name SER AD FX1100, which is a molecule containing a urethane function and having a weight-average molecular weight of 1300), OE being an oxyethylene unit, Rheolate 205 containing a urea function sold by the company Rheox, or alternatively Rheolate 208 or 204 (these polymers being sold in pure form) or DW 1206B from Rohm & Haas, with a C₂₀alkyl chain and a urethane bond, sold at 20% active material in water. Solutions or dispersions of these associative polyurethanes, especially in water or in aqueous-alcoholic medium, may also be used. Examples of such polymers that may be mentioned include SER AD FX1010, SER AD FX 1035 and SER AD 1070 from the company Servo Delden, and Rheolate 255, Rheolate 278 and Rheolate 244 sold by the company Rheox. The products DW 11206F and DW 1206J, and also Acrysol RM 184 or Acrysol 44 from the company Rohm & Haas, or Borchigel LW 44 from the company Borchers, may also be used,
and mixtures thereof.
The hydrophilic gelling agents may be present in each of the compositions (i) and (ii) according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.05% to 40%, preferably from 0.5% to 20% and better still from 1% to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
Additional Film-Forming Polymer
Each of the compositions (i) or (ii) in accordance with the invention may also comprise at least one additional lipophilic polymer that may be soluble in a nonaqueous solvent phase or dispersed in a nonaqueous solvent phase.
According to one particular embodiment, the composition comprises a particular acrylic terpolymer as additional film-forming polymer. This terpolymer has the advantage of affording good attachment to the eyelashes during application, especially deposition of material at the end of the eyelashes so as to obtain a lengthening effect, and allows smooth and uniform deposition of material when it is applied to the eyelashes.
According to one particular embodiment, the kit comprises a composition (i) containing this terpolymer, and a composition (ii) without such a terpolymer.
Such a type of polymer and a mascara comprising it are more particularly described in document EP 1 647 268.
The teaching of said document is incorporated by reference into the present patent application.
However, the particular terpolymer is described hereinbelow in detail.
The terpolymer polymer is a polymer resulting from the copolymerization:
of at least one monomer A chosen from esters resulting from the reaction of (meth)acrylic acid with a monoalcohol containing from 2 to 20 carbon atoms,
of at least one monomer B chosen from esters resulting from the reaction of methacrylic acid with a monoalcohol containing from 1 to 10 carbon atoms,
of at least one monomer C chosen from N-vinyllactams.
Monomer A
The monomer A is chosen from esters resulting from the reaction of (meth)acrylic acid with a monoalcohol containing from 2 to 20 to carbon atoms.
According to one embodiment, the copolymer comprises at least one monomer A resulting from the reaction of methacrylic acid with a monoalcohol containing from 5 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably from 7 to 18 carbon atoms and better still from 10 to 18 carbon atoms.
In particular, the monoalcohol may be chosen from: 3-heptanol, 1-octanol, 2-octanol, isooctyl alcohol, 2-ethyl-1-hexanol, 1-decanol, 1-dodecanol, 1-tridecanol, 1-tetradecanol and 1-octadecanol, and mixtures thereof.
The polymer according to the invention may also comprise at least one monomer A resulting from the reaction of acrylic acid with a monoalcohol containing from 2 to 15 carbon atoms and preferably from 4 to 14 carbon atoms.
In particular, the C2-C15 monoalcohol may be chosen from: ethanol, 1-butanol, 2-butanol, 1-pentanol, 2-pentanol, 3-pentanol, 2-methyl-1-butanol, 1-hexanol, 2-hexanol, 2-methyl-1-pentanol, 3-methyl-1-pentanol, 2-ethyl-1-butanol, 3,5,5-trimethyl-1-hexanol, 3-heptanol, 1-octanol, 2-octanol, isooctyl alcohol, 2-ethyl-1-hexanol, 1-decanol, 1-dodecanol, 1-tridecanol and 1-tetradecanol, and mixtures thereof.
Advantageously, monomer A is chosen from n-butyl acrylate, isooctyl acrylate and lauryl methacrylate (derived from the reaction of methacrylic acid and 1-dodecanol), and mixtures thereof.
Advantageously, monomer A is present in a numerical proportion ranging from 15% to 80% to and better still from 40% to 60% relative to the total number of monomers of the polymer.
Monomer B
The monomer B is chosen from esters derived from the reaction of methacrylic acid with a monoalcohol containing from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 6 and better still from 1 to 4 carbon atoms.
In particular, the monoalcohol may be chosen from methanol, ethanol, 1-propanol, 2-propanol, 1-butanol, 2-butanol, 1-pentanol, 2-pentanol and 3-pentanol, and mixtures thereof.
Preferably, monomer B is chosen from methyl methacrylate and n-butyl methacrylate, and mixtures thereof.
Advantageously, monomer B is present in a numerical proportion ranging from 20% to 70% and better still from 25% to 50% relative to the total number of monomers of the polymer.
Monomer C
The monomer C is advantageously chosen from N-vinyllactams (N-substituted lactam derivatives) such as those described in document U.S. Pat. No. 3,907,720, and in particular from the N-vinyllactams having the following formula:
in which:
R1 and R2 independently represent a hydrogen atom, a C₁-C₅alkyl group such as methyl, ethyl or propyl, or an aryl group,
Y is chosen from O, S, —SO2—,
and n and n1 range from 0 to 5, with the proviso that n and n1 are not simultaneously equal to 0.
Preferably, R1 and R2 independently represent a hydrogen atom or a C₁-C₅alkyl group such as methyl, ethyl or propyl, and Y represents
As N-vinyllactams that may be used as monomers C, mention may be made of N-vinylpyrrolidone and the N-vinyl-substituted derivatives of the following lactams: 3,3-dimethyl-1-pyrrolidone, 4,4-dimethyl-2-pyrrolidone, 3,4-dimethyl-2-pyrrolidone, 3-ethyl-2-pyrrolidone and 3,5-dimethyl-2-pyrrolidone. Preferably, the monomer C is N-vinylpyrrolidone.
Advantageously, the monomer C is present in a numerical proportion ranging from 1% to 15% and better still from 5% to 15% relative to the total number of monomers of the polymer.
Advantageously, the polymer is in solution or in dispersion in an organic solvent, which is preferably the “first organic solvent” of the organic solvent phase of composition (i) in accordance with the invention.
The copolymer of the composition according to the invention may be prepared via the conventional methods of free-radical polymerization, in particular in a solvent in which the monomers are soluble.
Such copolymers and antimicrobial compositions containing them are especially described in document U.S. Pat. No. 4,584,192.
The additional film-forming polymer may represent from 0.01% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 15% by weight and better still from 0.05% to 10% by weight of solids (or active material) relative to the total weight of composition (i) or (ii).
Aqueous Phase
At least one of the compositions (i) or (ii) in accordance with the invention, preferably each composition (i) and (ii), comprises a continuous aqueous phase comprising water and/or at least one water-soluble solvent.
The continuous aqueous phase comprises water and/or at least one water-soluble solvent, which may form the continuous phase of the composition.
In the present invention, the term “water-soluble solvent” denotes a compound that is liquid at room temperature and miscible with water (miscibility in water of greater than 50% by weight at 25° C. and atmospheric pressure).
The water-soluble solvents that may be used in the compositions according to the invention may also be volatile.
Among the water-soluble solvents that may be used in compositions (i) or (ii) in accordance with the invention, mention may be made especially of lower monoalcohols containing from 1 to 5 carbon atoms such as ethanol and isopropanol, glycols containing from 2 to 8 carbon atoms such as ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol and dipropylene glycol, C₃and C₄ketones and C₂-C₄aldehydes.
The aqueous phase (water and optionally the water-miscible solvent) may be present in each composition (i) and (ii) in a content ranging from 1% to 95% by weight, preferably ranging from 3% to 80% by weight and preferentially ranging from 5% to 60% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
Other Components Contained in Compositions (i) and (ii)
Emulsifying System
Each of the compositions (i) or (ii) in accordance with the invention may contain emulsifying surfactants present especially in a proportion ranging from 0.1% to 30% by weight, better still from 1% to 15% and better still from 2% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
According to the invention, an emulsifier appropriately chosen to obtain an oil-in-water emulsion is generally used. In particular, an emulsifier having at 25° C. an HLB (hydrophilic-lipophilic balance), in the Griffin sense, of greater than or equal to 8 may be used.
The HLB value according to Griffin is defined in J. Soc. Cosm. Chem. 1954 (volume 5), pages 249-256.
These surfactants may be chosen from nonionic, anionic, cationic and amphoteric surfactants or emulsifying surfactants. Reference may be made to the document “Encyclopedia of Chemical Technology, Kirk-Othmer”, volume 22, pp. 333-432, 3rd edition, 1979, Wiley, for the definition of the properties and (emulsifying) functions of surfactants, in particular pp. 347-377 of this reference, for anionic, amphoteric and nonionic surfactants.
The surfactants preferably used in the composition according to the invention are chosen from:
a) nonionic surfactants with an HLB of greater than or equal to 8 at 25° C., used alone or as a mixture; mention may be made especially of:
oxyethylenated and/or oxypropylenated ethers (which may comprise from 1 to 150 oxyethylene and/or oxypropylene groups) of glycerol;
oxyethylenated and/or oxypropylenated ethers (which may comprise from 1 to 150 oxyethylene and/or oxypropylene groups) of fatty alcohols (especially of C8-C24 and preferably C12-C18 alcohol), such as oxyethylenated cetearyl alcohol ether containing 30 oxyethylene groups (CTFA name “Ceteareth-30”) and the oxyethylenated ether of the mixture of C12-C15 fatty alcohols comprising 7 oxyethylene groups (CTFA name “C12-15 Pareth-7” sold under the name Neodol 25-7® by Shell Chemicals);
fatty acid esters (especially of a C8-C24 and preferably C16-C22 acid) of polyethylene glycol (which may comprise from 1 to 150 ethylene glycol units), such as PEG-50 stearate and PEG-40 monostearate sold under the name Myij 52P® by the company ICI Uniqema;
fatty acid esters (especially of a C8-C24 and preferably C16-C22 acid) of oxyethylenated and/or oxypropylenated glyceryl ethers (which may comprise from 1 to 150 oxyethylene and/or oxypropylene groups), for instance PEG-200 glyceryl monostearate sold under the name Simulsol 220 TM™ by the company SEPPIC; glyceryl stearate polyethoxylated with 30 ethylene oxide groups, for instance the product Tagat S® sold by the company Goldschmidt, glyceryl oleate polyethoxylated with 30 ethylene oxide groups, for instance the product Tagat O® sold by the company Goldschmidt, glyceryl cocoate polyethoxylated with 30 ethylene oxide groups, for instance the product Varionic LI 13® sold by the company Sherex, glyceryl isostearate polyethoxylated with 30 ethylene oxide groups, for instance the product Tagat L® sold by the company Goldschmidt, and glyceryl laurate polyethoxylated with 30 ethylene oxide groups, for instance the product Tagat I® from the company Goldschmidt;
fatty acid esters (especially of a C8-C24 and preferably C16-C22 acid) of oxyethylenated and/or oxypropylenated sorbitol ethers (which may comprise from 1 to 150 oxyethylene and/or oxypropylene groups), for instance polysorbate 60 sold under the name Tween 60® by the company Uniqema;
dimethicone copolyol, such as the product sold under the name Q2-5220® by the company Dow Corning;
dimethicone copolyol benzoate (Finsolv SLB 101® and 201® by the company Finetex);
copolymers of propylene oxide and of ethylene oxide, also known as EO/PO polycondensates;
and mixtures thereof.
The EO/PO polycondensates are more particularly copolymers consisting of polyethylene glycol and polypropylene glycol blocks, for instance polyethylene glycol/polypropylene glycol/polyethylene glycol triblock polycondensates. These triblock polycondensates have, for example, the following chemical structure:
H—(O—CH₂—CH₂)_a—(O—CH(CH₃)—CH₂)_b—(O—CH₂—CH₂)_a—OH,
in which formula a ranges from 2 to 120 and b ranges from 1 to 100.
The EO/PO polycondensate preferably has a weight-average molecular weight ranging from 1000 to 15 000 and better still ranging from 2000 to 13 000. Advantageously, said EO/PO polycondensate has a cloud point, at 10 g/l in distilled water, of greater than or equal to 20° C. and preferably greater than or equal to 60° C. The cloud point is measured according to ISO standard 1065. As EO/PO polycondensates that may be used according to the invention, mention may be made of the polyethylene glycol/polypropylene glycol/poly-ethylene glycol triblock polycondensates sold under the name Synperonic®, for instance Synperonic PE/L44® and Synperonic PE/F127®, by the company ICI.
b) nonionic surfactants with an HLB of less than 8 at 25° C., optionally combined with one or more nonionic surfactants with an HLB of greater than 8 at 25° C., such as those mentioned above, such as:
saccharide esters and ethers, such as sucrose stearate, sucrose cocoate and sorbitan stearate, and mixtures thereof, for instance Arlatone 21210 sold by the company ICI;
fatty acid esters (especially of a C8-C24 and preferably C16-C22 acid) of polyols, especially of glycerol or of sorbitol, such as glyceryl stearate, glyceryl stearate such as the product sold under the name Tegin M® by the company Goldschmidt, glyceryl laurate such as the product sold under the name Imwitor 312® by the company Hüls, polyglyceryl-2 stearate, sorbitan tristearate or glyceryl ricinoleate;
the mixture of cyclomethicone/dimethicone copolyol sold under the name Q2-3225C® by the company Dow Corning,
c) anionic surfactants such as:
salts of C₁₆-C₃₀fatty acids, especially those derived from amines, for instance triethanolamine stearate and/or 2-amino-2-methylpropane-1,3-diol stearate;
polyoxyethylenated fatty acid salts, especially those derived from amines or alkali metal salts, and mixtures thereof;
phosphoric esters and salts thereof, such as “DEA oleth-10 phosphate” (Crodafos N 10N from the company Croda) or monocetyl monopotassium phosphate (Amphisol K from Givaudan);
sulfosuccinates such as “Disodium PEG-5 citrate lauryl sulfosuccinate” and “Disodium ricinoleamido MEA sulfosuccinate”;
alkyl ether sulfates, such as sodium lauryl ether sulfate;
isethionates;
acylglutamates such as “Disodium hydrogenated tallow glutamate” (Amisoft HS-21 R® sold by the company Ajinomoto), and mixtures thereof.
Triethanolamine stearate is most particularly suitable for use in the invention. This amine is generally obtained by simple mixing of stearic acid and triethanolamine.
Each of the compositions (i) and (ii) in accordance with the invention may also contain one or more amphoteric surfactants, for instance N-acylamino acids such as N-alkylaminoacetates and disodium cocoamphodiacetate, and amine oxides such as stearamine oxide, or alternatively silicone surfactants, for instance dimethicone copolyol phosphates such as the product sold under the name Pecosil PS 100® by the company Phoenix Chemical.
Oils
Each of the compositions (i) and (ii) in accordance with the invention may comprise one or more oils or organic solvent.
The term “oil or organic solvent” means a nonaqueous substance that is liquid at room temperature and atmospheric pressure. The oil may be volatile or nonvolatile.
For the purposes of the invention, the term “volatile oil or organic solvent” means any nonaqueous medium that is capable of evaporating on contact with the skin or the eyelashes in less than one hour, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure. The volatile organic solvent(s) and volatile oils of the invention are volatile organic solvents and cosmetic oils that are liquid at room temperature, with a non-zero vapor pressure at room temperature and atmospheric pressure, ranging in particular from 0.13 Pa to 40 000 Pa (10⁻³to 300 mmHg), in particular ranging from 1.3 Pa to 13 000 Pa (0.01 to 100 mmHg), and more particularly ranging from 1.3 Pa to 1300 Pa (0.01 to 10 mmHg). The term “nonvolatile oil” means an oil that remains on the skin or the keratin fiber at room temperature and atmospheric pressure for at least several hours and that especially has a vapor pressure of less than 10⁻³mmHg (0.13 Pa).
The oil may be present in the composition in a content ranging from 1% to 30% and preferably from 1% to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Composition (i) or (ii) may comprise volatile oils or nonvolatile oils, and mixtures thereof.
The volatile oils (or organic solvents) may be hydrocarbon-based oils, silicone oils or fluoro oils, or mixtures thereof.
The term “hydrocarbon-based oil” means an oil mainly containing hydrogen and carbon atoms and optionally oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur or phosphorus atoms. The volatile hydrocarbon-based oils may be chosen from hydrocarbon-based oils containing from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, and especially branched C₈-C₁₆alkanes, for instance C₈-C₁₆isoalkanes of petroleum origin (also known as isoparaffins), for instance isododecane (also known as 2,2,4,4,6-pentamethylheptane), isodecane and isohexadecane, for example the oils sold under the trade names Isopar or Permethyl, branched C₈-C₁₆esters and isohexyl neopentanoate, and mixtures thereof. Other volatile hydrocarbon-based oils, for instance petroleum distillates, especially those sold under the name Shell Solt® by the company Shell, may also be used.
Volatile oils that may also be used include volatile silicones, for instance volatile linear or cyclic silicone oils, especially those with a viscosity ≦6 centistokes (6×10⁻⁶m²/s) and especially containing from 3 to 6 silicon atoms, these silicones optionally comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups containing from 1 or 2 carbon atoms. As volatile silicone oils that may be used in the invention, mention may be made especially of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, heptamethylhexyltrisiloxane, heptamethyloctyltrisiloxane, hexamethyldisiloxane, octamethyltrisiloxane, decamethyltetrasiloxane and dodecamethylpentasiloxane, and mixtures thereof.
Volatile fluoro solvents such as nonafluoromethoxybutane or perfluoromethylcyclopentane may also be used.
Each of the compositions (i) and (ii) in accordance with the invention may also comprise at least one nonvolatile oil or organic solvent, which may be chosen in particular from nonvolatile hydrocarbon-based oils and/or silicone oils and/or fluoro oils.
Nonvolatile hydrocarbon-based oils that may especially be mentioned include:
hydrocarbon-based oils of plant origin, such as triglycerides consisting of fatty acid esters of glycerol, the fatty acids of which may have varied chain lengths from C₄to C₂₄, these chains possibly being linear or branched, and saturated or unsaturated; these oils are especially wheatgerm oil, sunflower oil, grapeseed oil, sesame seed oil, corn oil, apricot oil, castor oil, shea oil, avocado oil, olive oil, soybean oil, sweet almond oil, palm oil, rapeseed oil, cottonseed oil, hazelnut oil, macadamia oil, jojoba oil, alfalfa oil, poppy oil, pumpkin oil, sesame seed oil, marrow oil, rapeseed oil, blackcurrant oil, evening primrose oil, millet oil, barley oil, quinoa oil, rye oil, safflower oil, candlenut oil, passion flower oil and musk rose oil; or alternatively caprylic/capric acid triglycerides such as those sold by the company Stéarineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol 810®, 812® and 818® by the company Dynamit Nobel,
synthetic ethers containing from 10 to 40 carbon atoms;
linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin, such as petroleum jelly, polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as parleam, and squalane, and mixtures thereof;
synthetic esters such as oils of formula R₁COOR₂in which R₁represents a linear or branched fatty acid residue containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms and R₂represents an in particular branched hydrocarbon-based chain containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms, on condition that R₁+R₂≧10, for instance purcellin oil (cetostearyl octanoate), isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, C₁₂-C₁₅alkyl benzoate, hexyl laurate, diisopropyl adipate, isononyl isononanoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, isostearyl isostearate, alkyl or polyalkyl octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates such as propylene glycol dioctanoate; hydroxylated esters such as isostearyl lactate and diisostearyl malate; and pentaerythritol esters;
fatty alcohols that are liquid at room temperature, containing a branched and/or unsaturated carbon-based chain containing from 12 to 26 carbon atoms, for instance octyldodecanol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-butyloctanol or 2-undecylpentadecanol;
higher fatty acids such as oleic acid, linoleic acid or linolenic acid; and mixtures thereof.
The non-volatile silicone oils that may be used in either of the compositions (i) or (ii) according to the invention may be non-volatile polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMSs), polydimethylsiloxanes comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups, that are pendent and/or at the end of a silicone chain, the groups each containing from 2 to 24 carbon atoms, phenyl silicones, for instance phenyl trimethicones, phenyl dimethicones, phenyltrimethylsiloxydiphenylsiloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, diphenylmethyl-diphenyltrisiloxanes and 2-phenylethyl trimethylsiloxysilicates.
The fluoro oils that may be used in either of the compositions (i) or (ii) according to the invention are, in particular, fluorosilicone oils, fluoro polyethers or fluorosilicones, as described in document EP-A-847 752.
The content of nonvolatile oil or organic solvent in either of the compositions (i) or (ii) in accordance with the invention may range from 0.01% to 30% by weight, in particular from 0.1% to 25% by weight and better still from 0.1% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
Dyestuff
Each of the compositions (i) or (ii) in accordance with the invention may also comprise at least one dyestuff, for instance pulverulent dyes, liposoluble dyes and water-soluble dyes.
According to one embodiment, compositions (i) and (ii) have the same shade.
According to another embodiment, compositions (i) and (ii) have different shades, so as to reinforce the makeup effect obtained.
It is possible, for example, to apply a light-colored composition to the entire eyelash fringe or an inner portion of the eyelash fringe, and a darker-colored composition to the outer portion of the eyelash fringe.
The pulverulent dyestuffs may be chosen from pigments and nacres.
The pigments may be white or colored, mineral and/or organic, and coated or uncoated. Among the mineral pigments that may be mentioned are titanium dioxide, optionally surface-treated, zirconium oxide, zinc oxide or cerium oxide, and also iron oxide or chromium oxide, manganese violet, ultramarine blue, chromium hydrate and ferric blue. Among the organic pigments that may be mentioned are carbon black, pigments of D&C type, and lakes based on cochineal carmine or on barium, strontium, calcium or aluminum.
The nacres may be chosen from white nacreous pigments such as mica coated with titanium or with bismuth oxychloride, colored nacreous pigments such as titanium mica with iron oxides, titanium mica with, especially, ferric blue or chromium oxide, titanium mica with an organic pigment of the abovementioned type, and also nacreous pigments based on bismuth oxychloride.
The liposoluble dyes are, for example, Sudan Red, D&C Red 17, D&C Green 6, β-carotene, soybean oil, Sudan Brown, D&C Yellow 11, D&C Violet 2, D&C Orange 5, quinoline yellow and annatto.
These dyestuffs may be present in a content ranging from 0.01% to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of each composition (i) and (ii).
Fillers
Each of the compositions (i) or (ii) in accordance with the invention may also comprise at least one filler.
The fillers may be chosen from those that are well known to those skilled in the art and commonly used in cosmetic compositions. The fillers may be mineral or organic, and lamellar or spherical. Mention may be made of talc, mica, silica, kaolin, polyamide powders, for instance the Nylon® sold under the trade name Orgasol® by the company Atochem, poly-β-alanine powders and polyethylene powders, powders of tetrafluoro-ethylene polymers, for instance Teflon®, lauroyllysine, starch, boron nitride, expanded polymeric hollow microspheres such as those of polyvinylidene chloride/acrylonitrile, for instance the products sold under the name Expancel® by the company Nobel Industrie, acrylic powders, such as those sold under the name Polytrap® by the company Dow Corning, polymethyl methacrylate particles and silicone resin microbeads (for example Tospearls® from Toshiba), precipitated calcium carbonate, magnesium carbonate and magnesium hydrocarbonate, hydroxyapatite, hollow silica microspheres (Silica Beads® from Maprecos), glass or ceramic microcapsules, metal soaps derived from organic carboxylic acids containing from 8 to 22 carbon atoms and in particular from 12 to 18 carbon atoms, for example zinc, magnesium or lithium stearate, zinc laurate and magnesium myristate.
It is also possible to use a compound that is capable of swelling on heating, and especially heat-expandable particles such as non-expanded microspheres of copolymer of vinylidene chloride/acrylonitrile/methyl methacrylate or of acrylonitrile homopolymer copolymer, for instance those sold, respectively, under the references Expancel® 820 DU 40 and Expancel® 007WU by the company Akzo Nobel.
The fillers may represent from 0.1% to 25% and in particular from 1% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
Each of the compositions (i) and (ii) in accordance with the invention may also comprise any additive usually used in cosmetics, such as antioxidants, preserving agents, fibers, fragrances, neutralizers, gelling agents, thickeners, vitamins, coalescers and plasticizers, and mixtures thereof.
Fibers
Each of the compositions (i) or (ii) in accordance with the invention may also comprise fibers that allow an improvement in the lengthening effect.
The term “fiber” should be understood as meaning an object of length L and diameter D such that L is very much greater than D, D being the diameter of the circle in which the cross section of the fiber is inscribed. In particular, the ratio L/D (or shape factor) is chosen in the range from 3.5 to 2500, especially from 5 to 500 and in particular from 5 to 150.
The fibers that may be used in the composition of the invention may be mineral or organic fibers of synthetic or natural origin. They may be short or long, individual or organized, for example braided, and hollow or solid. They may have any shape, and may especially have a circular or polygonal (square, hexagonal or octagonal) cross section, depending on the intended specific application. In particular, their ends are blunt and/or polished to prevent injury.
In particular, the fibers have a length ranging from 1 μm to 10 mm, preferably from 0.1 mm to 5 mm and better still from 0.3 mm to 3.5 mm. Their cross section may be within a circle of diameter ranging from 2 nm to 500 μm, preferably ranging from 100 nm to 100 μm and better still from 1 μm to 50 μm. The weight or yam count of the fibers is often given in denier or decitex, and represents the weight in grams per 9 km of yam. In particular, the fibers according to the invention may have a yarn count chosen in the range from 0.15 to 30 denier and better still from 0.18 to 18 denier.
The fibers that may be used in the composition of the invention may be chosen from rigid or non-rigid fibers, and may be of synthetic or natural, mineral or organic origin.
Moreover, the fibers may or may not be surface-treated, may be coated or uncoated, and may be colored or uncolored.
As fibers that may be used in the composition according to the invention, mention may be made of non-rigid fibers such as polyamide (Nylon®) fibers or rigid fibers such as polyimideamide fibers, for instance those sold under the names Kermel® and Kermel Tech® by the company Rhodia or poly(p-phenyleneterephthalamide) (or aramid) fibers sold especially under the name Kevlar® by the company DuPont de Nemours.
The fibers may be present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.01% to 10% by weight, in particular from 0.1% to 5% by weight and more particularly from 0.3% to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
Cosmetic Active Agents
As cosmetic active agents that may be used in compositions (i) or (ii) in accordance with the invention, mention may be made especially of antioxidants, preserving agents, fragrances, neutralizers, emollients, moisturizers, vitamins and screening agents, in particular sunscreens.
Needless to say, a person skilled in the art will take care to select the optional additional additives and/or the amount thereof such that the advantageous properties of the composition according to the invention are not, or are not substantially, adversely affected by the envisioned addition.
According to one particular embodiment of the invention:
composition (i) comprises a continuous aqueous phase, at least one tacky wax with a tack of greater than or equal to 0.7 N.s and a hardness of less than or equal to 3.5 MPa, at least the combination of a cationic hydrophilic polymer and an anionic hydrophilic polymer and at least one acrylic terpolymer as described above, and
composition (ii) comprises a continuous aqueous phase, at least one tacky wax with a tack of greater than or equal to 0.7 N.s and a hardness of less than or equal to 3.5 MPa, at least the combination of a cationic hydrophilic polymer and an anionic hydrophilic polymer and at least one film-forming polymer dispersed in an aqueous phase.
The two compositions (i) and (ii) may also differ in at least one optical characteristic that is visible to the naked eye, other than the shade afforded by the presence of dyestuffs. It may especially be the sheen.
Kit
The kit according to the present invention may advantageously comprise one or more means for applying the cosmetic compositions (i) and (ii) in accordance with the invention.
Composition (ii) is applied using the application means described more particularly hereinbelow.
Composition (i) may be applied using any brush or any comb commonly used for making up the eyelashes and/or the eyebrows.
In the present case, it is particularly advantageous to apply composition (i) with a makeup brush as described in patents FR 2 701 198, FR 2 605 505, EP 792 603 and EP 663 161.
The makeup kit according to the invention may, according to one particular embodiment, comprise at least two separate packagings, one comprising composition (i) defined above and the other comprising composition (ii) also defined above, either one possibly being, without preference, a “top coat” or “base coat” composition depending on the order of application, as has been described hereinabove.
The kit according to the invention may comprise a wiping member. This wiping member may comprise, for example, a block of an alveolar material such as an open-cell or closed-cell foam, with or without flocking. As a variant, the wiping member may comprise an optionally flocked, non-alveolar material, for example an elastomer or a polyolefin. In this case especially, the wiping member may comprise, for example, at least one slit and/or may comprise a lip arranged to wipe the stem.
Since the application of makeup to the eyelashes or the eyebrows is performed by means of a multiple action by the user, i.e. in at least two steps, the first consisting in applying the “base coat” composition and the second consisting in applying the “top coat” composition totally or partially over said cosmetic composition, a makeup kit conditioned in one and the same packaging is particularly suitable. This alternative constitutes a preferred embodiment of the invention.
When the kit is in the form of one and the same packaging, it may be presented as a container delimiting at least one compartment or reservoir that comprises composition (i), said compartment being closed by means of a closing member, and at least one compartment or reservoir that comprises composition (ii), also being closed by means of a closing member.
Again, when the kit is in the form of one and the same packaging, this packaging preferably comprises at least one application means or applicator for the composition (i), especially in the form of a brush comprising an arrangement of bristles maintained by a twisted wire. Such a twisted brush is especially described in patent U.S. Pat. 4,887,622. It may also be in the form of a comb comprising a plurality of application members, obtained especially by molding. Such combs are described, for example, in patent FR 2 796 529. The applicator may be solidly attached to the container, as described, for example, in patent FR 2 761 959. Advantageously, the applicator is solidly attached to a stem, which is itself solidly attached to the closing member.
The closing member may be coupled to the container by screwing. Alternatively, the coupling between the closing member and the container takes place other than by screwing, especially via a bayonet mechanism, by click-fastening or by tightening. The term “click-fastening” in particular means any system involving the passing of a rim or bead of material by elastic deformation of a portion, especially of the closing member, followed by return to the elastically unstressed position of said portion after the rim or bead has been passed.
The container, advantageously comprising two compartments or reservoirs, may be at least partly made of thermoplastic material. Examples of thermoplastic materials that may be mentioned include polypropylene and polyethylene.
Alternatively, the container is made of a non-thermoplastic material, especially of glass or metal (or alloy).
The container is preferably equipped with a drainer located in the region of at least one aperture of the container. Such a drainer makes it possible to wipe the applicator and, optionally, the stem to which it may be solidly attached. Such a drainer is described, for example, in patent FR 2 792 618.
The content of the patents or patent applications mentioned previously are incorporated by reference into the present patent application.
According to one particularly preferred embodiment, the makeup kit comprises two reservoirs each comprising one among the “base coat” and “top coat” compositions, one of the reservoirs being equipped with a makeup brush, especially of mascara brush type as described above, and the other reservoir being equipped with a means for applying composition (ii) described hereinbelow.
Application Means
The application means included in the kit according to the present invention comprises a plurality of application members arranged on a support in the form of at least one row whose length is such that the application members can at best simultaneously contact not more than a quarter of the eyelashes of the fringe.
According to one preferred embodiment, the application means included in the kit according to the present invention comprises:
a stem,
a support connected to the stem and extending along a longitudinal axis, and
a plurality of application members, being only two in number, where appropriate, arranged on the support and extending substantially transversely to the longitudinal axis of the support.
Thus, according to one most particularly preferred embodiment, the application means comprises:
a plurality of application members (6; 60) arranged on a support (5) in the form of at least one row whose length is such that the application members (6; 60) can at best simultaneously contact at most a quarter of the eyelashes of the fringe.
The application members can extend over a distance along the longitudinal axis of the support, which is such that the application members can at best simultaneously contact at most a quarter, or even a fifth or a sixth of the eyelashes or of the eyebrows of the fringe, while the longitudinal axis of the support is oriented substantially tangentially to the fringe.
A portion of made-up eyelashes or eyebrows may, for example, correspond to at most a quarter, or even a fifth or a sixth of the length of the fringe.
The application members may comprise teeth and/or bristles.
This applicator makes it possible to conveniently charge the eyelashes while at the same time exerting a possible combing action.
The application members extend on the support over a distance that is short enough to be able to make up one or more locks of eyelashes, which makes it possible to obtain novel makeup effects.
This applicator makes it possible to deposit in a supported manner material on only at most a third, or even a quarter of the eyelash fringe to be made up, the portion preferably being at the exterior of the eyelash fringe.
The application members may extend, for example, on the support over a distance of between about 0.1 and 1 cm, for example less than or equal to 8 mm, or even 7 mm or 6 mm, for example a distance ranging from 2 mm to 5 mm approximately, for example between 2 mm and 3 mm.
The applicator included in the kit according to the present invention may comprise:
a stem,
a support connected to the stem and extending along a longitudinal axis,
at least one row of application members, consisting especially of teeth, arranged on the support, the application members of the row each extending substantially transversely to the longitudinal axis of the support and having free ends whose distance to the longitudinal axis varies non-monotonously on moving between the extreme application members of the row.
The presence of a maximum in the row of application members may allow gradual penetration of the application members into the eyelashes and thus facilitate the makeup of a portion of eyelash fringe according to the invention.
The number of application members of the row, especially the number of teeth, may be, for example, between 3 and 9, preferably between 3 and 8 and especially between 3 and 7.
According to one embodiment, the support and the application members are made as a single piece, especially by molding or machining. As a variant, the application members may be connected to the support.
The support and the stem may be made as a single piece, especially by molding, or, as a variant, the support may be connected to the stem. In this case, the support may comprise a tip arranged so as to engage in housing for the stem, or the stem may comprise a tip arranged so as to engage in housing for the support.
The stem may extend along a longitudinal axis different than the longitudinal axis of the support. In this case, the longitudinal axis of the stem may form with the longitudinal axis of the support, especially for the portion thereof that bears the application members, an angle of between 5° and 45°, especially between 15° and 25°, for example equal to 20° about. This configuration may allow more comfortable handling of the applicator during the application of a makeup composition in accordance with the invention to the eyelashes. The longitudinal axis of the support may be, for example, curvilinear or rectilinear.
As a variant, the stem may extend along a longitudinal axis that is identical to the longitudinal axis of the support.
The applicator and/or the support may be at least partially made of a supple or rigid material, especially at least partially of thermoplastic, elastomeric or elastomeric-thermoplastic material, especially by molding. It would not constitute a departure from the context of the present invention if the applicator were at least partially made of wood, metal or other materials, especially by machining.
When the support is made of an elastically deformable material, this may make it possible to perform preferential wiping of one side of the support.
The stem and the support may or may not be made of different materials.
When the applicator is observed from the side, the line connecting the free ends of the application members may have a distance to the longitudinal axis of the support that passes through at least one extremum, especially a maximum, which may make the penetration of the applicator into the eyelashes more gradual.
The abovementioned line may especially have at least partially a pointed shape, especially triangular, or a rounded shape, especially circular or ogival.
Irrespective of the profile of the abovementioned line, when there is a maximum and a minimum, the angle formed between, on the one hand, the straight line connecting the free ends of an application member of the greatest length associated with this maximum and of an application member of smallest length associated with the closest minimum of the application member of the longest length, and, on the other hand, the normal to the longitudinal axis of the support, this normal passing through the free ends of the application member of greatest length, is, for example, between 25° and 60° approximately, especially between 25° and 50°, especially between 25° and 45°, for example between 30° and 45°, for example equal to 43° about.
The distance from the abovementioned line to the longitudinal axis of the support may also pass through two or even more extremes.
The application members may be arranged in a single row or in at least two rows. In the latter case, the application members of a first row and those of a second row may extend in different directions or, as a variant, in parallel directions. The two rows may be, for example, arranged substantially opposite each other relative to the support.
The height of the application members may be, for example, between 0.5 and 10 mm approximately and especially between 1 and 3 mm approximately.
When these application members are arranged in at least one row, this row may comprise a succession of application members extending alternately, at least partially, on either side of a geometrical separating surface.
The application members may or may not have aligned bases.
When the application members are arranged in at least one row, the row may extend along a non-rectilinear axis. The application members may also be made alternately on either side of a median core.
Again when the application members are arranged in at least one row, this row may comprise a succession of application members located alternately, at least partially, on either side of a geometrical separating surface, two consecutive application members having adjacent parts that are connected or that overlap when the applicator is observed from the side, and forming between them a groove for receiving an eyelash.
The applicator may comprise a comb or a brush.
When the applicator comprises a brush, the support may comprise two twisted wires of small diameter, especially less than 0.7 mm, for example between 0.2 and 0.6 mm and better still between 0.35 and 0.50 mm.
Still in the case where the applicator comprises a brush, the application members may be bristles of small diameter, for example less than or equal to 8/100 mm and better still 6/100 mm.
When the brush comprises a twisted core, the number of spires of the brush may be between 3 and 6, for example. In the case of a brush with a twisted core, the bristles extend from the core in two helical courses. The number of spires of the brush corresponds to the sum of the revolutions around the core of the two courses. Part of the twisted core may be free of bristles, especially close to the junction between the support and the stem.
The cross section of the envelope surface of the brush may be circular, square or another shape.
The brush may have a biconical envelope surface. The envelope surface may also be conical or frustoconical with the base of the cone located on the side of the distal or proximal end of the brush.
The applicator included in the kit according to the invention may take the form of a brush for the application of a product to the eyelashes, comprising a twisted core and bristles extending from the core, the number of spires being less than or equal to 6.
The applicator included in the kit according to the invention may also take the form of a brush for the application of a product to the eyelashes, comprising a core and bristles extending from the core, the length of the portion of the brush bearing the bristles being less than or equal to 8 mm, better still 7 mm or even 6 mm.
The applicator included in the kit according to the invention may also take the form of a composition in accordance with the invention, comprising a core and bristles extending from the core, contained in an envelope surface of substantially frustoconical, conical or biconical shape, in which the smallest angle formed between a plane containing the largest cross section of the brush and a tangent to the envelope surface of the brush at the intersection with this plane is between 20° and 60°, especially between 25° and 50°, for example between 30° and 35°.
The applicator included in the kit according to the invention may also take the form of a composition in accordance with the invention for the eyelashes, comprising a core and bristles extending from the core, in which the envelope surface of the brush has a substantially biconical shape, with an apex angle at the junction of the cone frustums of less than or equal to 120°, or even less than or equal to 90°.
The applicator included in the kit according to the invention may also take the form of a comb for the application of a product to the eyelashes, comprising a support and teeth extending transversely to the longitudinal axis of the support, the distance between the extreme teeth along the longitudinal axis being less than or equal to 8 mm, better still 7 mm, or even 6 mm.
The applicator included in the kit according to the invention may also take the form of a comb for the application of a product to the eyelashes, comprising a support and teeth extending transversely to the longitudinal axis of the support, comprising a tooth of greatest length having a first length and a tooth of shortest length having a second length, in which comb the ratio of the first length to the second length is greater than or equal to 1.3.
The applicator included in the kit according to the invention may also take the form of a comb for the application of a product to the eyelashes, comprising a support and teeth extending transversely to the longitudinal axis of the support, in which the angle formed between a straight line joining the free end of a tooth of shortest length and the free end of a tooth of longest length and the perpendicular to the longitudinal axis of the support passing through the free end of the tooth of longest length is between 20° and 60°.
When the kit comprises a wiping member, the applicator support is profiled so as to facilitate passage into the wiping member and may comprise for this purpose, for example, a rounded nose at the front and a bump at the back.
The applicator stem may be connected to a cap for closing the container, which may also serve as a handling member, and the applicator may be housed inside the container when it is in the closed position.

The invention may be understood more clearly on reading the detailed description that follows, of non-limiting examples of implementation of the application means included in the kit and of kits per se, and on examining the attached drawing, in which:

FIG. 1 is a schematic view in elevation with partial cutaway of a part of the kit, when the kit is in the form of two separate packagings, namely the packaging comprising the application means in accordance with the invention, and also one of the two compositions in accordance with the invention,

FIG. 2 illustrates the use of an applicator in accordance with the invention,

FIG. 3 is a schematic and partial side view of the applicator of FIG. 1,

FIG. 4 is a schematic and partial view in perspective of the applicator of FIG. 1,

FIG. 5 is a view similar to that of FIG. 3, of an applicator variant,

FIG. 6 is a view similar to that of FIG. 4, showing the applicator of FIG. 5,

FIGS. 7 to 9 show, in schematic and partial side view, other variants of the applicator of FIG. 1,

FIGS. 10 and 11 show schematically, with partial cutaway, examples of attachment of the support to the applicator stem,

FIG. 12 shows in schematic and partial side view an embodiment variant of the applicator,

FIGS. 13 to 17 show, in schematic and partial side view, various profiles of applicators in accordance with the invention,

FIG. 18 shows, in schematic and partial side view, an applicator variant comprising two rows of application members,

FIGS. 19 to 22 show in schematic axial cross section various applicators comprising one or more rows of application members,

FIGS. 23 and 24 show in side view various configurations of application members,

FIG. 25 shows a variant of the part of the kit of FIG. 1 comprising another wiping member,

FIGS. 26 and 27 show in schematic and partial axial cross section other examples of wiping members that may be used in a kit according to the invention,

FIG. 28 is a view similar to that of FIG. 1 of a variant comprising a brush,

FIGS. to 29 to 35 are schematic and partial views of brush variants,

FIG. 36 is a schematic cross section of the brush of FIG. 28,

FIG. 37 is a partial view in perspective of an implementation example in which a composition in accordance with the invention is deposited on the application member using a flexible tube,

FIGS. 38 to 42 are schematic axial cross sections of kits according to the invention in the form of one and the same packaging, and

FIG. 43 illustrates the type of makeup that may be obtained according to the makeup process of the invention.

The device 1, shown in FIG. 1, which corresponds to a part of the kit when this kit is conditioned in two separate packagings, comprises a container 2 containing a reserve of a cosmetic product P, in the present case one of the compositions (i) or (ii), and an applicator 3 comprising a stem 4 of longitudinal axis X. Only the device comprising the application means in accordance with the invention and one of the compositions in accordance with the invention is shown therein.
The stem 4 is fitted at one end with a support 5 comprising a plurality of application members 6 and the stem 4 is connected at the opposite end to a cap 7 for closing the container 2, which also constitutes a handling member.
The closing cap 7 comprises inner threading, not shown, for screwing onto the externally threaded neck 11 of the container 2.
The container 2 comprises, in the example described, a wiping member 8 engaged in the neck 11 and comprising a wiping lip 9 arranged so as to wipe the stem 4 and the support 5 equipped with the application members 6.
The wiping member 8 can, where appropriate, be arranged such that it can become deformed on passage of the application members 6.
The wiping member 8 may be made by injection molding, for example of a polyolefin.
The container 2 is hermetically closed when not in use, by screwing the closing cap 7 onto the neck 11.
In the example shown, the applicator 3 comprises a comb, the application members 6 consisting of teeth. The support 5 extends along a longitudinal axis Y forming with the longitudinal axis X of the stem 4 a non-zero angle a, as illustrated especially in FIG. 3. This angle α may be between 5° and 45°, for example.
The application members 6, of which there are six, for example, are arranged in the example under consideration in a row 10.
The application members 6 may be positioned on the support 5 in various configurations.
In the example illustrated, the row 10 comprises a first series of teeth 6 a and a second series of teeth 6 b, which are respectively located on either side of a geometrical separating surface S, which is in this case a midplane of symmetry of the comb, parallel to the plane of FIG. 3, and may also constitute a joint plane for the molding of the comb.
In the example illustrated, the teeth 6 a and 6 b are produced alternately on either side of a common core 15 of the support 5, which serves basically as a backbone on which the teeth are connected at the bottom.
The support 5 is provided at the front with a rounded nose 17, for facilitating its return into the container 2.
The support 5 comprises, at the rear, a bump 18 for facilitating the crossing of the wiping member 8 during its removal from the container 2.
The application members 6 each comprise a top part 20 ending with a free end 30 and a bottom part 22 connected to the core 15 of the support 5.
In the example under consideration, the application members 6 extend substantially perpendicularly to the axis Y of the support 5.
The free end 30 of the application members are at a distance from the longitudinal axis Y that varies non-monotonously on moving between the end application members of the row 10, i.e. from left to right in FIG. 3.
For the purposes of the present invention, the term “varying non-monotonously” should be understood as meaning that the line connecting the free ends of the application members has a distance to the longitudinal axis of the support that passes through at least one extremum, for example a maximum.
In the example illustrated, the line L connecting the free ends 30 has, when the applicator is observed from the side, in a direction perpendicular to the longitudinal axis of the stem 4 and to the abovementioned geometrical separating surface, as illustrated in FIG. 3, a substantially triangular shape, with two rectilinear segments forming between them an angle substantially equal to 90° in the drawing.
In the example under consideration, the succession of application members 6 comprises two larger teeth 6 a and 6 b of the same length.
The straight line D₁passing through the free end of the shortest member starting from the distal end of the applicator and through the free end of the longest member that is closest to this longest member is identical in the example under consideration to the first rectilinear segment of the line L.
The angle γ₁formed between the straight line D₁and the perpendicular N₁to the axis Y passing through the free end of the abovementioned longest application member is, for example, between 25° and 60°, for example about 43°.
The straight line D₂passing through the shortest application member from the proximal end of the support 5 and the longest application member that is closest to this member is identical to the second rectilinear segment of the line L.
The angle γ₂formed between the straight line D₂and the perpendicular N₂to the axis Y passing through the free end of this longest application member may be within the same ranges of values as the angle γ₁, for example substantially equal to γ₁. The apex angle between the segments of the line L is, for example, less than or equal to 120°, or even less than or equal to 90°.
The application members 6 extend on the support 5 over a relatively short distance d, especially a distance d of between 0.1 and 1 cm approximately. Thus, as illustrated in FIG. 2, it is possible, using the applicator 3, to make up only a portion of the eyelash fringe at a time without touching all of the eyelashes of the eyelid. For example, the application members can simultaneously contact, at most, less than a quarter of the eyelashes of the upper eyelid, as illustrated.
The support 5 and the application members 6 are made as a single piece in the example illustrated, by molding plastic. The support 5 is connected to the stem 4 in a manner that will be detailed later, with regard to FIGS. 10 and 11.
In the example described, the top parts 20 of two consecutive application members 6 form between them a groove 21 extending substantially down to the core 15, when the comb is observed from the side, as in FIG. 3. The grooves 21 allow the eyelashes to be captured more easily, for example so as to separate them, comb them or spread out product deposited on their surface.
It is understood that by varying the length and interval of the application members, it is easily possible to modify the amount of product that the applicator takes up.
The gap between the peaks of two successive application members 6 a or 6 b located on the same side of the geometrical separating surface is, in the example under consideration, markedly larger than the width of an application member, measured at approximately mid-height of the applicator 3, parallel to the axis Y of the support 5.
Each application member 6 a extends substantially at mid-distance, when the applicator 3 is observed from the side, from two adjacent application members 6 b, and vice versa.
In the example under consideration, the top parts 20 of the application members 6 all point in substantially the same direction.
The bottom parts 22 of two successive application members located on the same side of the core 15 form between them and with the core 15 a cavity 23 that can constitute a product reserve.
The spacing between the application members 6 a or 6 b may be relatively large to improve the amount of product that the applicator takes up, without, however, the applicator losing any capacity to grip the eyelashes, by virtue of the staggering of the application members and by the fact that the grooves 21 formed by the top parts 20 of the application members remain sufficiently straight.
The application members 6 may have many configurations without departing from the context of the present invention, especially differently oriented top parts.
It would not constitute a departure from the context of the present invention if the application members 6 were to be arranged differently on the support 5.
FIGS. 5 and 6 show another example of an applicator comprising a plurality of teeth 6, for example seven teeth, extending in a row 10. The teeth 6, as may be seen in FIG. 6, have aligned bases 22, whereas the top parts 20 of two consecutive teeth 6 a and 6 b diverge.
FIG. 7 illustrates the possibility of producing the stem 4 with a longitudinal axis X that is identical to that Y of the support 5.
In FIG. 8, the support 5 is shown with a longitudinal axis Y forming a non-zero angle α with the longitudinal axis X of the stem 4, the sense of the incline of the support in FIG. 8 being opposite that of the support in FIGS. 1 to 4.
The support 5 may be made as a single piece with the stem 4, for example by molding plastic as illustrated in FIG. 9. However, the support 5 may also be connected to the stem 4.
In the example shown in FIG. 10, the support 5 comprises a substantially cylindrical tip 35 comprising an annular channel 36. The stem 4 comprises a corresponding housing 37, fitted with an annular rim 38 arranged so as to click into the channel 36.
The tip 35 may also be configured so as to be force-fitted into the stem 4.
In the example in FIG. 11, the stem 4 comprises a substantially cylindrical tip 40, arranged so as to house in a corresponding housing 41 of the support 5.
The applicator 3 may comprise a number of teeth of less than six or seven, and may especially comprise only two teeth 6 as illustrated in FIG. 12. The teeth may or may not have the same width.
The line L connecting the free ends 30 of the application members 6 may have various shapes other than that of FIGS. 1 to 11, as illustrated in FIGS. 13 to 17.
In particular, the line L may have a rounded shape, especially a substantially circular shape as illustrated in FIG. 13, or an ogival shape as illustrated in FIG. 14. The extremum may be located substantially in the middle of the support 5 as illustrated previously, may be closer to the stem 4 as illustrated in FIG. 15 or may be closer to the distal end of the applicator as illustrated in FIG. 16. The distance from the line L to the longitudinal axis Y of the support 5 may pass through two extreme as illustrated in FIG. 17.
It may be seen in FIG. 13 that the support may be without the rounded nose 17 and/or the bump 18.
This figure also shows the straight lines D₁and D₂and the normal N to the longitudinal axis Y of the support 5 that passes through the free end of the longest application member, which is unique in the example under consideration.
The angles γ₁formed between the straight line D₁and this normal N and γ₂formed between the straight line D₂and this normal N may be identical or different, for example being within the ranges of values given previously.
In the example in FIG. 17, angles γ₁and γ₂relative to the normal N passing through the free end of the application member associated with the first relative extremum and γ′₁and γ′₂relative to the normal N′ passing through the free end of the application member corresponding to the second relative extremum may be defined, these angles also being, for example, within the ranges of values given previously.
FIG. 18 illustrates the possibility of producing on the support 5 two rows of application members, for example two rows located opposite each other relative to the core 15 of the support 5. The application members may extend differently from one row to the other and especially, as illustrated in FIG. 18, may have different profiles when the applicator 3 is observed from the side.
The core 15 may have in cross section a circular shape as illustrated in FIGS. 19, 20 and 22, or another shape, for example flattened, especially substantially rectangular, as illustrated in FIG. 21.
The support 5 may comprise a row of aligned teeth, as illustrated in FIG. 19, or several rows of teeth extending in different directions, for example divergent as illustrated in FIG. 20 or in parallel directions as illustrated in FIG. 21.
An applicator comprising a plurality of rows 10, arranged around the entire periphery of the core 15 of the support 5, is illustrated in FIG. 22.
The application members 6 may have, when the applicator is observed from the side, over at least part of their length, a profile of substantially constant width, as illustrated in FIGS. 1 to 22. The application members 6 may also have a different profile, especially substantially triangular, as illustrated in FIG. 23, or yet another profile.
The application members may be arranged in zigzag, as illustrated in FIG. 24.
The wiping member 8 may be different than that illustrated in FIG. 1, without departing from the scope of the present invention. A device whose wiping member 8 consists of an alveolar material, especially an open-cell or closed-cell foam, is shown by way of example in FIG. 25.
As a variant, the wiping member 8 may be made of elastomer and may comprise at least one slit 50 as illustrated in FIG. 26. The wiping member 8 may comprise an annular lip 51 as illustrated in FIG. 27, other than at its lower end.
The application members may be other than teeth, and may comprise bristles, for example, connected to the support as illustrated in FIG. 28. The applicator 3 then comprises, for example, a brush whose bristles 60 extend substantially transversely to the longitudinal axis Y of the support, which may be identical to the longitudinal axis X of the stem 4 as illustrated.
In the example under consideration, the bristles extend over a distance d along the longitudinal axis Y of the support, which is such that the bristles cannot simultaneously contact more than a quarter of the eyelashes or eyebrows of the eyelash or eyebrow fringe that it is desired to make tip. The distance d may be, for example, between 2 and 3 mm approximately, and the number of spires may be between 3 and 6, for example.
When the applicator 3 is observed from the side, as illustrated in FIG. 28, the line L connecting the free ends of the bristles may have a distance to the axis Y that passes through at least one extremum.
When the applicator 3 comprises a brush, the bristles 60 used are preferably relatively fine, for example about 6/100 mm in diameter.
The bristles 60 may have a solid, substantially circular cross section.
The core 61 may be formed by a metal wire folded into a U and whose arms are twisted about themselves so as to grip the bristles between them.
The metal wire used is preferably relatively fine, for example with a diameter of less than 0.7 mm and especially between 0.35 and 0.5 mm.
FIGS. 29 to 35 show applicator variants.
In FIG. 29, the applicator 3 comprises a brush with a substantially conical or frustoconical envelope surface, the longest bristles being on the side of the stem 4.
The angle δ formed between the perpendicular to the longitudinal axis Y of the brush passing through the largest cross section and the tangent to the envelope surface is, for example, between 20° and 60°.
The applicator 3 of FIG. 30 comprises a brush of substantially biconical envelope surface, whereas that in FIG. 31 comprises a brush of substantially conical or frustoconical envelope surface, the shortest bristles being on the side of the stem 4.
The longitudinal axis Y of the brush may or may not be aligned with the axis X of the stem.
The axis Y may form an angle a with the axis X of the stem, as illustrated in FIGS. 32 to 35. The angle α may be, for example, between 5° and 45° approximately, for example equal to 20° approximately.
The envelope surface E of the brush may be of circular cross section as illustrated in FIG. 36, or of other cross section, especially polygonal or oblong or with notches or gaps.
When the twisted core is bent, the bend may be more or less close to the stem 4, as illustrated in FIGS. 32 to 35.
In variants that are not illustrated, the core is curved.
FIG. 37 shows another implementation variant of the invention.
FIG. 37 shows a part of the kit according to the invention in which one of the compositions in accordance with the invention is contained in a container 2 in the form of a flexible tube.
Other distribution modes may be used to deposit to said composition onto the applicator 3, for example a pump distributor, without departing from the scope of the present invention.
FIG. 38 shows a kit in accordance with the invention, in the form of one and the same packaging, comprising a container 2 containing a composition in accordance with the invention and the applicator 3, and also a second container 70 containing the second composition in accordance with the invention and a second applicator 71 that may be different than the applicator 3. For example, the applicator 71 may comprise a conventional mascara brush.
In the example illustrated in FIG. 38, the container 2 comprises a lower skirt 72 fitted with threading and constituting a closing cap for the container 70.
The applicator 71 can make it possible, for example, to apply to the eyelashes the first composition, and the user can then use the applicator 3 to make up only a portion of the eyelash fringe, advantageously at most a third of said fringe, and even more preferably, the outer portion of the eyelash fringe, over at most a third of the fringe.
Other examples of devices comprising two containers and two applicators have been shown in FIGS. 39 to 42.
The applicators in these examples are oriented in opposite directions such that each container can serve as a gripping member for the applicator associated with the other container.
In FIG. 39, the device comprises a mascara brush and an applicator 3 in accordance with the invention comprising a comb, whereas the applicator 3 of the device in FIG. 40 comprises a brush. The mascara brush may be chosen, for example, from those described in U.S. Pat. No. 5,937,870 or FR 2 605 505, for example, the content of which is incorporated into the present patent application by reference.
The device in FIG. 41 comprises a comb and an applicator 3 in accordance with the invention, also consisting of a comb. The applicator in FIG. 42 comprises a comb and an applicator in accordance with the invention, consisting of a brush. The comb of the applicators 71 in FIGS. 41 and 42 is chosen, for example, from those described in U.S. Pat. No. 6,581,610, WO 01/05271 or U.S. Pat. No. 6,539,950, the content of which is incorporated into the present patent application by reference.
The devices in FIGS. 39 to 42 comprise a tubular sleeve 80 connecting together the closing caps 82 and 7 associated, respectively, with the containers 70 and 2. The closing caps 82 and 7 may be retained, for example, by friction, bonding or click-fastening inside the sleeve 80.
FIG. 43 shows an eye made up according to the process of the invention, using a kit according to the invention. It is observed that the outer portion of the eyelash fringe comprises more deposited material. There is no regrettable formation of lumps, and a particular makeup effect is obtained.
Needless to say, the invention is not limited to the implementation examples that have just been described. The characteristics of the various embodiments may especially be combined.
In the implementation examples of the invention, the application members may extend transversely to the stem or to the wiping member.
Process
A subject of the invention is a nontherapeutic process for making up and/or caring for the eyelashes, characterized in that it comprises:
at least one step of applying to the eyelashes at least one coat of a composition (i) with a content of wax(es) and of hydrophilic polymer(s) of less than or equal to 26% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and
at least one step of applying at least one coat of a composition (ii) with a total content of wax(es) and of hydrophilic film-forming polymer(s) of greater than 26% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition,
at least one of said compositions (i) and (ii) comprising a continuous aqueous phase, the step of applying composition (ii) being performed using the application means described above.
According to a preferred embodiment, composition (i) is applied before composition (ii). Advantageously, composition (ii) is furthermore applied to only a portion of the eyelash fringe. In this way, the production of contrast in terms of differential charging is optimum.
Thus, the makeup process may comprise the steps consisting in:
applying the first composition (i) in accordance with the invention to substantially all of the eyelash fringe, so as to form a first deposit, and
on the first deposit of the portion formed by at most the outer third of the eyelash fringe, forming a second deposit by means of a one second composition (ii) in accordance with the invention.
It is possible, for example, to form the second deposit before the first composition has fully dried.
The second portion may extend over at least a sixth of the total length of the eyelash fringe.
The made-up fringe may be that of the eyelashes of the upper eyelid.
According to another particular embodiment, composition (i) is applied to the entire eyelash fringe and composition (ii) is applied only to at most a third of the eyelash fringe, preferably to at most the outer third of the eyelash fringe, or even to at most a quarter of said fringe. The portion of eyelash fringe on which composition (i) may be deposited may represent from an eighth to a third and preferably from a quarter to a third of the total length of the eyelash fringe.
The present invention is illustrated by the examples that follow. Unless otherwise mentioned, the amounts indicated are expressed as mass percentages relative to the total weight of the composition.
The hydrophilic polymers are indicated as such in the examples that follow.

EXAMPLE 1 TO 4

Compositions (i)


Example 1	Example 2	Example 3	Example 4

Carnauba wax	7.3	2.9	5.35	3.5
Beeswax	—	3.7	—	7.4
Candelilla wax	2.5	—	—	—
Paraffin wax	—	11.8	—	—
Rice bran wax	7.45	—	—	—
Microcrystalline wax	—	—	5	—
Polytetrafluoroethylene wax	—	2	—	—
Wax obtained by hydrogenation of olive oil esterified	6.3	—	6.45	—
with stearyl alcohol (Phytowax Olive 18 L 57 from
Sophim)
C18–C38 alkyl (hydroxystearyloxy)stearate (Kester	—	0.2	—	—
K82 P from Koster Keunen)
Hydroxyethylcellulose quaternized with 2,3-	—	0.08	—	—
epoxypropyltrimethylammonium chloride
HYDROPHILIC POLYMER
Hydroxyethylcellulose	0.22	0.93	0.2	—
HYDROPHILIC POLYMER
Sodium polymethacrylate in water at 25% AM*	—	0.9	—	—
(Darvan 7 from Vanderbilt)
HYDROPHILIC POLYMER
Gum arabic	1.52	3.46	—	—
HYDROPHILIC POLYMER
Hydroxypropyl chitosan	—	0.12	—	—
HYDROPHILIC POLYMER
Polyvinyl alcohol	0.2	—	—	—
HYDROPHILIC POLYMER
Crosslinked ethyl acrylate/methyl methacrylate	—	—	4.5	—
copolymer as an aqueous dispersion containing 50%
AM* (Daitosol 5000 AD from Daito)
HYDROPHILIC POLYMER
Acrylamide/Na AMPS copolymer at 40% solids in	—	—	—	3.5
isohexadecane with polysorbate 80 (Simulgel 600 ®
from SEPPIC)
HYDROPHILIC POLYMER
Styrene/acrylates/ammonium methacrylate	—	—	—	20
copolymer at 40% AM in water with butylene glycol
and sodium laureth-12 sulfate (Syntran 5760)
HYDROPHILIC POLYMER
Polyvinylpyrrolidone	—	—	1	—
HYDROPHILIC POLYMER
Ethylenediamine/stearyl dilinoleate copolymer	—	—	5	—
(Uniclear 100 VG ® from Arizona Chemical)
Trimethylpentanediol/adipic acid/glycerol	—	—	1	—
crosslinked copolymer (Lexorez 200 from Inolex)
Ammonium acrylate/methacrylate copolymer at 50%	—	—	5.6	—
AM in water with sodium lauryl sulfate (Ultragel
2075C from GANZ Chem.)
HYDROPHILIC POLYMER
Mixture of cyclopentasiloxane, dimethicone/vinyl	—	—	1.19	—
dimethicone crosslinked copolymer and laureth-4 in
water at 17% AM (Jeesil LTX from JEEN Int)
Acrylic copolymer (ACP 10 from 3M) in phenyl	—	0.2	—	—
trimethicone (sold under the reference MSX 5381 by
3M)
Butylene glycol	—	—	—	3.9
Pentylene glycol	—	—	2	—
Oxypropylenated (20 OP)/oxyethylenated (20 OE)	0.2	—	—	—
polydimethylsiloxane (DC Q2-5220 Resin Modifier
from Corning)
Stearic acid	5.45	5.82	3.4	—
PEG-40 stearate (Myrj 52P from Uniqema)	—	0.5	—	—
PEG-200 glyceryl stearate	—	—	—	4
Triethanolamine	2.4	2.4	1.6	—
Aminomethylpropanediol	—	0.5	—	—
Polyimide-amide fibers (Kermel Tech. 2Dtex. 2 mm	—	—	0.1	—
from Kermel)
Cellulose fibers (Natural rayon flock fiber RC1BE -	—	0.25	0.75	1
N003 - M04 from Claremont Flock)
Black iron oxide	8	7.2	6	7
Talc	—	2	—	—
Simethicone	0.12	0.13	0.10	0.10
BHT	0.1	—	—	—
Disodium EDTA	—	—	0.1	0.2
Sodium dehydroacetate	—	—	—	0.2
Panthenol	1	0.45	—	—
Preserving agents	qs	qs	qs	qs
Alcohol	—	—	—	3
Water	qs 100	qs 100	qs 100	qs 100
Total wax content	23.5	18.6	16.8	10.9
Total content of hydrophilic polymers	1.94	4.79	6.25	9.40

*AM = active material

EXAMPLE 5 TO 7

Compositions (ii)


Example 5	Example 6	Example 7

Carnauba wax	3.2	3.4	6
Beeswax	4.7	4.37	5.2
Candelilla wax	0.3	—	2
Paraffin wax	13.81	13.82	—
Wax obtained by hydrogenation of olive oil esterified with stearyl	0.1	0.2	—
alcohol (Phytowax Olive 18 L57 from Sophim)
Totally hydrogenated palm oil (GV60 from Sio)	—	0.2	—
Rice bran wax	0.1	—	5.6
C18–C38 alkyl (hydroxystearyloxy)stearate (Kester K82 P from	—	—	4.1
Koster Keunen)
Hydroxyethylcellulose quaternized with 2,3-epoxypropyltrimethyl-	0.1	0.1	0.1
ammonium chloride
HYDROPHILIC POLYMER
Hydroxyethylcellulose	0.89	0.89	0.88
HYDROPHILIC POLYMER
Sodium polymethacrylate in water at 25% AM* (Darvan 7 from	1	1	1
Vanderbilt)
HYDROPHILIC POLYMER
Gum arabic	3.39	3.39	3.38
HYDROPHILIC POLYMER
Crosslinked ethyl acrylate/methyl methacrylate copolymer as an	—	—	1
aqueous dispersion containing 50% AM* (Daitosol 5000 AD from
Daito)
HYDROPHILIC POLYMER
Oxypropylenated (20 OP)/oxyethylenated (20 OE) polydimethyl-	—	—	0.2
siloxane (DC Q2-5220 Resin Modifier from Corning)
Mixture of cyclopentasiloxane and dimethiconol (DC1501 Fluid)	8	—	—
Stearic acid	5.65	6.6	5.82
Triethanolamine	2.4	2.4	2.4
PEG-40 stearate (Myrj 52P from Uniqema)	—	0.5	1.5
Simethicone	0.13	0.13	0.13
Black iron oxide	7	7.14	7.14
Ultramarines	—	2.1	—
Palmitic acid	0.2	—	—
Aminomethylpropanediol	0.39	0.8	0.5
BHT	0.1	0.1	0.1
Panthenol	0.5	0.01	0.5
Preserving agents	qs	qs	qs
Water	qs 100	qs 100	qs 100
Total wax content	21.90	22.04	22.90
Total content of hydrophilic polymers	4.63	4.63	5.11

All the combinations of compositions (i) and (ii) as described above may be envisioned.
According to one particular embodiment, the composition described in Example 2 is applied as composition (i), and the composition described in Example 7 is applied as composition (ii). A particular makeup effect in accordance with that shown in FIG. 43, i.e. which opens the gaze and enlarges the eyes, optically modifying the perception of the shape of the eyes, is thus obtained, in particular when composition (ii) is applied to at most the outer third of the eyelash fringe.
Although the present invention herein has been described with reference to particular embodiments, it is to be understood that these embodiments are merely illustrative of the principles and applications of the present invention. It is therefore to be understood that numerous modifications may be made to the illustrative embodiments and that other arrangements may be devised without departing from the spirit and scope of the present invention as defined by the appended claims.

Claims

1. A kit for making up and/or caring for the eyelashes, comprising:

at least one of said compositions (i) and (ii) comprising a continuous aqueous phase, and

an application device for applying to the eyelash fringe, comprising a plurality of application members arranged on a support in the form of at least one row whose length is such that the application members can at best simultaneously contact at most a quarter of the eyelashes of the fringe.

2. The kit as claimed in claim 1, in which the application device comprises:

a stem,

a support connected to the stem and extending along a longitudinal axis (Y),

a plurality of application members arranged on the support and extending substantially transversely to the longitudinal axis (Y), the application members extending over a distance along the longitudinal axis (Y) of the support which is such that the application members can at best simultaneously contact at most a quarter of the eyelashes of the fringe, the longitudinal axis (Y) being oriented substantially tangentially to the fringe.

3. The kit as claimed in claim 1, in which the application members have free ends whose distance to the longitudinal axis (Y) varies non-monotonously on moving between the end application members of the row.

4. The kit as claimed in claim 1, in which the number of application members of the row is between 3 and 9.

5. The kit as claimed in claim 1, in which the application members comprise teeth.

6. The kit as claimed in claim 1, in which the application members comprises bristles.

7. The kit as claimed in claim 1, in which the application members extend on the support over a distance (d) of between 0.1 and 1 cm approximately.

8. The kit as claimed in claim 1, in which the application members are arranged in at least two rows.

9. The kit as claimed in claim 8, in which the application members of a first row and those of a second row extend in different directions.

10. The kit as claimed in claim 8, in which the application members of at least a first row and those of a second row extend in parallel directions.

11. The kit as claimed in claim 8, in which the rows are arranged opposite each other relative to the support.

12. The kit as claimed in claim 1, in which the height of the application members is between 0.5 and 10 mm approximately.

13. The kit as claimed in claim 1, in which it comprises a comb.

14. The kit as claimed in claim 1, in which it comprises a brush.

15. The kit as claimed in claim 1, in which the two compositions (i) and (ii) comprise an aqueous continuous phase.

16. The kit as claimed in claim 1, in which composition (i) has a total content of wax(es) and of hydrophilic polymer(s) of less than or equal to 24% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

17. The kit as claimed in claim 1, in which composition (ii) has a total content of wax(es) and of hydrophilic polymer(s) of greater than or equal to 27% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

18. The kit as claimed in claim 1, in which composition (i) has a total content of wax(es) and of hydrophilic polymer(s) of greater than or equal to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

19. The kit as claimed in claim 1, in which composition (ii) has a total content of wax(es) and of hydrophilic polymer(s) ranging up to 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

20. The kit as claimed in claim 1, in which the wax is present in each of the compositions (i) and (ii) in a content ranging from 0.1% to 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

21. The kit as claimed in claim 1, in which the content of wax(es) in composition (i) ranges from 1% to 40% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

22. The kit as claimed in claim, in which the content of wax(es) in composition (ii) ranges from 5% to 40% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

23. The kit as claimed in claim 1, in which the total content of hydrophilic polymer solids in composition (i) is between 0.5% and 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

24. The kit as claimed in claim 1, in which the total content of hydrophilic polymer solids in composition (ii) is between 1% and 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

25. The kit as claimed in claim 1, in which each of the compositions (i) and (ii) also comprises at least one additional lipophilic polymer that is soluble in a nonaqueous solvent phase or in dispersion in a nonaqueous solvent phase.

26. The kit as claimed in claim 1, in which composition (i) or (ii) contains a terpolymer resulting from the copolymerization:

of at least one monomer A chosen from esters derived from the reaction of (meth)acrylic acid with a monoalcohol containing from 2 to 20 carbon atoms,

of at least one monomer B chosen from esters derived from the reaction of methacrylic acid with a monoalcohol containing from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, of at least one monomer C chosen from N-vinyllactams.

27. The kit as claimed in claim 1, in which the difference between the total content of wax(es) and of hydrophilic polymer(s) of composition (ii) and the total content of wax(es) and of hydrophilic polymer(s) of the composition (i) is greater than or equal to 2% as an absolute value.

28. The kit as claimed in claim 26, in which:

composition (i) comprises a continuous aqueous phase, at least one tacky wax with a tack of greater than or equal to 0.7 N.s and a hardness of less than or equal to 3.5 MPa, at least the combination of a cationic hydrophilic polymer and an anionic hydrophilic polymer and at least one acrylic terpolymer as described according to claim 26, and

composition (ii) comprises a continuous aqueous phase, at least one tacky wax with a tack of greater than or equal to 0.7 N.s and a hardness of less than or equal to 3.5 MPa, at least the combination of a cationic hydrophilic polymer and an anionic hydrophilic polymer and at least one film-forming polymer dispersed in an aqueous phase.

29. The kit as claimed in claim 1, in which compositions (i) and (ii) also comprise at least one oil and/or one emulsifying system and/or one dyestuff and/or one filler and/or fibers and/or cosmetic active agents.

30. The kit as claimed in claim 1, in which it is in one and the same packaging.

31. The kit as claimed in claim 30, in which it is in the form of a container delimiting at least one compartment that comprises composition (i) and at least one compartment that comprises composition (ii), said compartments being optionally closed by a closing member.

32. A nontherapeutic process for making up and/or caring for the eyelashes, comprising:

at least one step of applying to the eyelashes at least one coat of a composition (i) with a content of wax(es) and of hydrophilic polymer(s) of less than or equal to 26% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and

at least one step of applying at least one coat of a composition (ii) with a total content of wax(es) and of hydrophilic film-forming polymer(s) of greater than 26% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition,

at least one of said compositions (i) and (ii) comprising a continuous aqueous phase, and the step of applying composition (ii) being performed using an application device for applying to the eyelash fringe, comprising a plurality of application members arranged on a support in the form of at least one row whose length is such that the application members can at best simultaneously contact at most a quarter of the eyelashes of the fringe.

33. The process as claimed in claim 32, in which composition (i) is applied before composition (ii).

34. The process as claimed in claim 33, in which composition (ii) is applied to only a portion of the eyelash fringe.

35. The process as claimed in claim 32, in which composition (i) is applied to the entire eyelash fringe and composition (ii) is applied only to at most a third of the eyelash fringe.

36. The process as claimed in claim 32, in which the application members are arranged in at least two rows and the application members of at least a first row and these of a second row extend in parallel directions.

37. The process as claimed in claim 32, in which the means for applying to the eyelash fringe comprises a comb.

38. A made-up support comprising a makeup obtained according to the process as defined according to claim 32.