US1861422A - Art of shrinking fabrics - Google Patents

Description

May 31, 1932. L s. l.. cLuETT 1,861,422

ARQ,` 0F SHRINKING FABRICS Filed April 18.1930 4 sheets-sheet 1 ZZ Y W /zJA 3 f 2014 l f May 3l, 1932. s CLUETT 1,861,422

ART OF SHRINKING FABRICS Filed April V18, 1930 4 Sheets-Sheet 2 May 31, 1932. s CLUETT 1,861,422

ART 0F SHRINKING FABRICS Filed April 18. 1930 4 Sheets-Sheet 3 May 31 1932 s. L. cLur-:T'r v 1,861,422

ART OF SHRINKING FABRICS Filed April 18. 1950 4 Sheets-Sheet 4 I? efe 7 2&2?"

Patented May 31, 1932 PATENT OFFICE s aNroan L.

CLUETT, l' TBOY, NEW YORK ABT 0F SHRINKING FABRICS Application illed April 18,

This invention relates to an art or method of shrinking textile fabrics.

The dominant characteristic of my method is, that shrinkage or dimensional contraction 6" of a textile fabric, is produced by subjecting it, while in a plastic or internally mobile condition (induced for instance by moistening) to, com ressive forces or components of force applied tothe cloth from without, acting in directions everywhere parallel to the cloth surfaces, to condense or crowd toether the yarn components so as to enhance 1n degree the yarn undulation or crinkle originali produced by the weaving operation. en this contraction in web areain one or both dimensions (warp and/or weft) has been imposed on the fabric, it is set in its determined state of shrinkage by drying, preferably under heat and pressure.

One object of the present invention is to provide for o erating upon the cloth, which may already e finished in the sense of havin been bleached, mercerized, printed, d ed, ca endered, starched, ironed or polishe or any ofl these, either in the yarn or on a 1inished web, or both, in such a way as to secure and set in the cloth a maximum contraction in at least one dimension of the web. Another object of my invention is thus to provide for subjecting ing. it to take'up in at least one dimension, and then to submit the cloth to steps causing the ixation of the shrinkage in that dimension,` and to do thiswithout stretching or destroying the crinkle of the yarns of the cieth which extend in theI other direction. In a preferred series of steps which can be carried out b mechanism, the invention may be exempli ed b causing cloth to be subjected to a humi ifyng or moiste'nng treatment tending to soften adhesions or stinesses caused y the inclusion of starchy or gummy dressings, and then to operate upon the cloth to cause it in a shorter extent in one dimension upon a suitable carrier; and concbmitantly or thereafter to fix the collapsed 'state of the cloth in that dimension, preferably by heat and pressure. Y

The invention will now be explained in cloth to treatment caus-4 A ng the state of the cloth illustrated by Fig. 1

.2 showing modified apparatus; and

to collapse or lie Kexemplified by operations which may direction only.

1930. sei-m no. 445,500.

connection with the accompanying drawings showing preferred ste s by way of illustration of the steps of t e process or art, and preferred mechanisms, and in which Fig. 1 is a diagram in elevation of one form of apparatus upon which the method or art may be carried out;

Fi 2is an enlarged detaill partly in 1on gitu inal vertical section of apparatus shown in Fig. 1;

Fig. 3 is an enlarged diagram side elevation explanatory of certain steps of the treatment and of certain features of the apparatus;

Fig. 4 is an enlarged a carrier belt relied upon inafter explained;

Fig. 5 is a diagram side elevation of apparatus for practicing certain steps of the art or process according to a different mode of operation from that of the apparatus shown transverse section of for functions here- -in Figs. 1, 2 and 3;

Fig. 6 is an enlar diaglram inl elevation of an instrument o the sai ap aratus;

Fig. 7 is a diagram in side e evation of a modified apparatus practicing a modified step of the method or art;

Fig. 8 is a diagram section of .the fabric comparing its condition in two stages of the treatment;

Figs. 9 and 10'are res ctively com arative iafgrams in plan of c oth'not treate and cloth a ter it has been treated;

Fig. 9n is a section either warpwise or weft-4 wise of the said cloth in the state illustrated by Fig. 9;

Fig. 10 is a section warpwise showi Fig.

detail of Fig. 11 is a diagram corresponding to Fig. 12de an enlarged dlagram the apparatus shown in Fi 11.

The art or process in its reader as ects is conducted with the aid of apparatus shown in Figs. 1, 2 and 3, and carried out on cloth which has not been subjected to any shrinkage operation, or hasibeen only partially shrunken, or which has been shrunken in one For comparison, as shown 2 :,eeam

in Figs. 9 and 9*, a typical cloth w of simple '20 tion is true whatever t each other,

weave may present a warp or weft system of yarns y1 intereniaged with a crossin system of yarns y, t e relative lie, erin e or arrangement of the said yarns in res ect to whether they are lon `-tu inally extendin warps or laterally exten ing wefts, being suc that the yarns are bent over members of the other series of yarns so as to extend 4from side to side of the superficial faces of the fabric and to be substantially evenly distributed on either side of a medial longitudinal plane of symmetry. If such a piece of cloth w shoul have laid oil' upon it at m1 a marked square, the dimensions of the marked area would be chan ed by shrinkage. Such a change will not be eicted in any manner without causin some diiferent relation of the yarns y* tot e arns y'. This condie weave-construction of the fabric may be. n

ferring now to Fig. 1, a web w may be caused toL enter the apparatus from the right of the figure, whereupon, as in apparatus diragrammatically illustrated at 1, the cloth may be operated upon to cause it to shrink laterally. To this end the a paratus 1 may comprise any ordinary liindP of tenter havlng webfmargin asping devices approach ingveachother dirirring travel. from the entrance to the exit end of the device 1, the web being moist and dried before leaving the dc.

may comprise such a tenter,

vice 1 which and means for moistening and means for drylng the goods during its progress from its entering width 1where the eiect of moistening and dryin without stretching will be to fix in the clot a narrower width than its original or normal condition illustrated in Fig. 9. There might be substituted for the apparatus mentioned, and for the steps of treatment carried out on the said apparatus,the apparatus and steps of treatment of m copendin a lication filed of even date erewith, ase Ser'al No. 445,299the effect of which is to set in the fabric a shrunken width-by improved means. It is not, however, anynecessa part of the present art or apparatus to su ject the web w to any treatment whatever prior to the practice of the treatment about to heV de-4 scribed, which is, in specificillustration directed to securing a sh .y in longitudinal dimension of a cloth web capable of any such shrinkage.

The web au is worked upon to secure loncase is a shrink, to .a degree m ing to that resulting from repeatedA lan treatments in-`use; one y ment is to provide cloth' for cutting ing into garments which its original longitudinal dimension in and under repeated laundry L i w: exemplified by operations performed use As Yeryof the machine to the exit end of said device 'ing re extent' of y 4 collar and shitting cloths. gitudinal shrinkage, which inthepreferred Y operation by softening it; a subsidiary Apt nposenfthi 'attained is a relaxation of any stressed condian will reliably retain paratus best shown in Figs. 2 and 3, this longitudinal shrink treatment may comprise advancin the wieto gravitational engagement wit a carrier 5, which may be an endless textile fabric` belt capable of resisting tensionl in the direction of its length, but having at least a substantial portion of its thickness capable of longitudinal colla se so as to occupy a shorter longitudinal dimen-l sion when the belt is flexed in one direction than it occupies when the belt is iexed in another direction or is straight.

` As indicated in Fi lithe web of cloth 'w may be received on be t 5 by the operation of driven rolls 2, which advance it without substantial stress lengthwise of the cloth. A very light tension may be placed upon the cloth by the weight roller 3; the operation of the rolls 2 may be aided by the top roll 4;

the rolls 2, 3 an 4 bein to deliver it at a predetermined rate, whc when the o eration is continuous, may be the rate of cliv- 1 on to the belt 5 upon which the web w lies, free to adjust itself on the said belt 5, hereinafter referred to as a carrier for the cloth, except as its weight and friction hold it in contact with belt 5.

A referred treatment of the cloth as indicatedD at 10, F'gs. 1 and 2, comprises the direct ap lication to the web,'as shown, to its upper ace, of a fine spray or mist of water, steam or other suitable saturant capable of entering the capillary spaces of the yarns. A preferred form of molstening device indicated in the'drawings, is a-form of air-blast atomizer using water, and adapted to apply a predetermined quantity according to the of the cloth in order to accomplish the esired moistenin or capillary filling of the yarns, 'and not to aveany permanent detrimental eil'ect on the attained finish of the goods, so as to leave its trade finish substantially unimpaired. I have deterby experience that these quantities can be ascertained for any particular cloth, havrd to its contained moisture when delive to the apparatus, the temperatures of subsequent treatment, and especially the distance separating the moistemng station at 10 fronrthe place where the cloth is dried, for expampleby application of heat, to secure the degree of eect desired. Added water to the from 5 to 10 per centum of the the cloth is usuall suicient for e primary object pf thus moistenng the cloth 1s to preplalre 1t for the subsequent longitudinal shrin lg resu t llC weight vof of warp or weft elements of the cloth new lying loosely on the belt 5 and some take upor of these elements depending u their vious condition. However the t Y0th is ad uately 'prepared for the subse- 1-3 the said yarn mately the `in accordance with a as a whole.

quent longitudinal shrinking operation if moistened to loosen adhesions and soften stilienin substances but not caused or allowed tore ax or take up in either direction at this stage.

. he eii'ect desired is to'shrinlr 'the longitudinally extending or warp system of yarns y by causing take-up of the yarns y2 and contraction of the distances separating wefts y1 (Figs. 8 and 10B) to or slightl beyond the degree which would be attaine by repeatedl laundry washings of the fabric. Referring to Fig. 8, th's is accomplished by so operating upon the cloth as to take-up the crinkled warp yarns illustrated by the typical warp system member y2 at I in said ligure, through a desireddegree to occupy the shorter s ace for as shown at II` in said gure, in order to cause the cloth, as shown in Figs. 9 and 9, to be longitudinally shrunken as il; lustrated inFigs. 10 and 10.

In the preferred forms of the invention, such shrinking of the cloth in one direction does not necessitate a stretching and elongation of the cloth in the opposite direction. Referring to Fig. 1'0" it will be observed that while the Warps y2 of the preshrunken cloth have been given an abnormal amount of crinkle, the wefts y1 have not beeen caused to lose their normal crinkle, but on the contrary retain whatever degree of crinkle they had when warpwise condensation of the cloth began. Comparing Figs. 10 and 9, the distance between the planes of the crests of the undulations in the weft yarns is approxisame before. and after Warpwise shrinking. These conditions obtain in the cloth when it is in its finished preshrunken state, and without any subsequent laundering. To this end, after the applied moisture has sufficiently acted ,upon the cloth lying upon the carrier belt 5 to loosen adhesions and soften stiiening substances, the Icloth is caused to adhere to or lie'in frictional contact iirmly everywhere with one face of the carrier belt; and the surface of the carrier belt and the cloth carried by it is then contracted in a longitudinal sense; the cloth is then acted upon to dry it while it is in this contracted or condensed state to fix it in that condition, as may be done by the operation of heat and transverse pressure.

Referring now to Figs. 2 and 3, bnc device to carry out these steps with the aid of a carrier belt may be constructed as in said figures, a preferrred belt being shown in Fig. 4, which is atransverse The object is to provide a `belt 5 in which the portion 5B is iexble and resistant to tensile stress, Whereas th`portion 5* is equally or more iiexible, is not necessarily resistant to tensile stresses, upontitself to occupy shorter or longer length flexed state of the belt Suitable structures of the belt 5 crate, the surfaces detail section of the said belt.

and is capable of collapse may comprise multiple-pl of yarns o for the portion 5* an -ordinary connected woven fa ric, made suiiicient size, elasticity, tensile resistance and flexibility to serve the indicated purpose. Stout cotton yarns of good quality, if desired accompanied by a lon 1- tudinal and/or transverse system of stu er yarns, provide within the old and common knowledge of weavers a suitable fabric having the indicated qualifications. The portion 5b may be united in any usual manner, as indicated by weft floats, to the portion 5, and may differ from it structurally only in materials from which it is made, or the weave structure of the woven fabric constituting it; or in both these particulars. The portion 5" may be a fabric having one or both systems of woolen or worsted yarns, or of cotton treated to cause fluffy softness; or having a Weave structure characterized by compressibility with flexibility and thickness, which qualities, however secured, will accomplish the desired effect. For example, the section 5'1 may be a two-ply multipleinterconnected by warp or weft section 5b may be a four, multiple-ply tion 5b ma oats; the six or more ply float-connected fabric; the secbe woven of a coarser gauge and have relatively a larger number of transverse or weftwise stuier yarns than the section 5" or the section 5* may be principally composed of longitudinally extensible stuffer yarns held between the plies of the multiple-ply structure by mere inclusion betvyeen them; in any case the portion 5 and theplortion 5h may be interconnected by floats of t e yarn system of one extending into the yarn system of the other. The belt 5 may, of course, be constructed of two separate fabrics of the specified kinds respectively not conjoined, or occasionally conjoined by sewed stitches. Where the degree of shrinkage to be secured is modof any thick cloth belt may be depended upon to contract on `the concavity and stretch on the convexity of a bend in respect to a median portion which neither contracts nor stretches so that the concave face carrying the cloth frictionally or compressi vely adhering to it; will constrain the cloth to contract also.

Apparatus operating substantially according to the behavior of that illustrated in Fig. 2, comprises a bed or support 12 for the carrier 5, which bed 12 is preferably of metal, has a plane upper surface at 13, rising to a maximum height at a point 14, preferably in a gradual curve; the bed 12 may be hollow as at 15, perforated as at 16, and the space within it may be exhausted by any suitable suction appszrratus working through a duct indicated at In this form shown the carrier 5 runs about cylindrical rolls 20, 21 and 22, one of which is suitably delivery of the goods in the direction of the ly fabric' driven at the prescribed speed of i i 30 belt 5 andthe band 25 after passing the roll A by action of the'roll 27.

4 :,semes arrow a. One of the rolls, such as 20, may be order to accommodate itself to this bend the subjected to spring or gravity stress in the least extensible com onent of the belt 5, which direction of the arrow to keep the carrier is at section 5", an which is outside on the belt 5 taut. passage of roll 27, imposes u n the part 5'* 5 Above the table or bed 12 there is arranged of the relatively thick carrier t necessity to 70 an endle metallic, preferably polished and collapse. The web w which is by friction and very thin band 25 o a strong heatsconductpressure uniforml adherent to the contracting metal. If a smooth, liat surface is deing side of the het 5 necessarily partakes of sired for the material treated, band 25 is of the collapsing motion of the inner surface of strong, heat-conducting metal, suitabl polthe carrier belt 5 which subjects the web to 75 ished; but if a flat polished surface is not com ression exerted parallel toits surfaces desired, this band may be a woven textile or con ensing or shrinki it.- The degree of wire cloth, or of metal having an engraved or this collapse is measurelby the dierence be# rou hened texture. The band 25 may travel tween the length of any stratum of belt 5 l5 on t e surfaces of a cylindrical roll 26 which which remains unaltered throughout the pas 30 may be stressed in the direction of tne arrow sage about roll 27 in' this case the portion 5 c to maintain the band 25 taut, and a hollow of the carrier belt 5, and the interior cirroll 27 which may be suitably heated, as by cumferential extent of the inner surface of I steam ata predetermined pressure introduced ,the collapsed portion 5h of the belt 5. The

through its hollow axes, not shown. If deeffect of this is, as illustrated in FigJS to 85 sired, the band may be further heated by a crowd together the transversely extending radiating heater 28 which, as indicated, may ,yarn components of the web w, and to cause be an electric resistance heater, or might be the collapse by a greater amplitude of crinkle a steam box. of the longitudinal yarns y of the web w.

25 The carrier belt 5, the metal band 25 and The ratio of length of the web w after 90 the web under treatment pass around the hot treatment to its length before treatment is roller 27, after assing which the band 25 for these reasonsthe ratio between the like separates from t e carrier belt 5. The web arcs of the circumference ofthe roll 27 as may be delivered from the nip between the au ented by the thickness of the band 25,

annbf the bend about the roll of the taut 27 to a rotated ca roll 29 and carrier roll run of the relatively inextensible elementV 5` 30, Fig. 1,whichi desired may be associated of the belt 5. This in turn depends upon with a cloth piler 31, Fig. 1. the thickness about the roll 27 of the element In operation, the moistened web w grad- 5" ofthe belt 5. The expression 35 ually approaches the nip opposite the sumw1 R, mit 14 of the table 12 at and from which =F 'point it is under'transverse (i. e. normal) w,

ut not under any kind of lateral 01'10 tuis valid for this relation where 'wl is 4the un- `151ml Tpresure by the operatlon 0f the and treated length if the web, w' -is the treated travel at the same speed. Any mostened, band 25, and R is the radius of the inextenswelled and shrunken condition 0f the arnS sible ortion of belt 5 as it goes about the roll will, it willbe observed, be conserve and 27. '.'lthe ratio of fixed shrinks can be a1- maintained in the region between the band tered, therefore, by chan eit er the thick. 5 25 and the belt 5. By the application of heat ness of the portion 5" ofgx 5, or by substi- 11 through the heater 28 and the hollow roll 27, tuting a roll 27 of di rent diameter. the finall attained state of the web will be In the case of a belt of homogeneous conixed an preserved darin passage around struction, in which at a bend the internal face the roll 27. Having rega to the moisture colla andthe external face extends, there 9 of andthe speed o travel of the web, this will Iai'iintermediate stratum within the H5 ge about the roll 27 is throu h a sufbelt which neither extends nor collapses, and cient distance to set the fibers an dry off the ratio of shrinkage will be expressed by the moisture. .The dispositions of the appathe relation of the radii of the inner surface ratus are such that the ent-erin pressure opof said belt and of said stratum which neither posite the ummit Mis light ut upon asextends nor collapses. sage aroun the roll 27, the full tension o the When suicient heat isr'inaintained in the carrier belt 5 is available transversely to ress roll 27 the fabric is dried and seti-n this longithe web under eironing heat develope tudinally collapsed or shrunken state when Seizure of t e web between the aplproachleaving the nip between the roll 27 and the W ing runsI of the belt 5 and hand 25 in e manbelt 5.J The portion 5" at least of the belt 5 *25 ner indicated flattens out any small blisters is permeable to water vapor, and any excess o, wrinkleswhich otherwise might be'pressed moisture received into this part of the carrier belt 5 'ample opportunity to dry during I'Referring now to Fig. 3; the bend of the the longexterior run of. this portion of the V belt 5 rabout the roll 27 is relatively acute. In belt back to its receiving portion at the right- 139 o this end the band 25 and the belt 5 length, Rx is the radius of the roll 27 and 105 hand end of the apparatus, as shown in Fig. 2.

At and opposite the point 14, the heater 28 acting by conduction through belt 25 may be relied upon to relieve the web w of excess moisture to the point of leavin in the web 'w only enough moisture to ena le it to collapse along with the inner surface of the belt 5 prior to fixation by the ironing heat, also transmitted through the belt 25 at the last part of its passage around the roll 27. As indicated in Fig. 10 the eliect upon the goods is to cause lengthwise shrinkage, so that the longitudinal dimension se of the square marked at :n on the web, in its normal condiv tion, as shown in Fig. 9, will have become the lesser quantity indicated.

Referring now to Figs. 1l and 12, the belt 5 may be employed in a specifically different relation to a pressure and heating element to effect a longitudinal shrinkage. In this case the belt 5 may have its relatively inextensible element 5 within and its extensible and compressible element without, and be supported and operated by rolls 60 and 61, of which the roll 60 may be tensed in the direction of arrow c. The cylindrical roll 61 may be conv centric with the polished cylindrical concave surface 62 of a hollow heated ironing bed 63, which may also provide a cylindrical convex surface 64, an entering curved surface 65, and a delivery surface 66.- The bed 63 may be the top of a hollow casting tapped fpr a steam pipe 68 and condensation drain 6 In use, the web w is fed in the direction of the arrow, Fig. 11, past a moistenin device 10 by rolls 69, to the entrance s ope 65, whence it enters the nip between the outer, most expanded surface of belt 5 and the concave 62, by which the web is compressed against the surface 62. The lengthwise djmension of any unit length of the web corresponds tothe circumference of the arc of the belt 5 to which the cloth is applied by pressure, and is represented because of the liexure of belt 5, by the dimension d, which brackets a lesser length 'v of the inextensible part 5* of belt 5. The web fw is, by pressure and friction, made uniformly adherent to the convex outer surface 5" of the belt 5. Then travel of belt 5 toward the convex surface 64 first causes the belt 5 to straighten, and then to flex oppositely, whereupon the len h of cloth represented by dimension d rst is compreively forced to occupy the lesser dimension d1, and then the least dimension d o posite the convex surface 64.

The under face of the cloth carried by the belt 5 is rubbed against the polished surfaces of the hot bed 63` and is heated, dried and fixed in its shrunken condition after it has passed the convex surface 64, and is thence delivered from the apparatus, for instance over cage roll 29. It will be observed that tmf apparatus of Figs. 11 and 12 utilizes the extensible and collapsible surface of a carrier belt to shrink a moist web a plied to it while said surface is in a state ci) extension, the web being maintained in pressure-contact with said surface during its change of state to its normal and thence to a state of collapse, the web being dried and removed after completion of hot pressure in said lat ter state.

It will now be apparent that in o eration on a cloth web, the apparatus of F1 s. 1, 2 and 3, and Figs. 11 and 12, respective y, rform the same method of effecting shr1nkage of the web, and that this method is characterized by exerting on all portions of the web material a pressure, at all ints in directions parallel to the web sur aces, so that it is compressively condensed in the djmen slop in which the compressive forces are applied. By this means a yarn com onent, e. g., warp, is given enhanced unulation or crinkle, while another yarn component, e. g., weft, has its individual members crowded more closely together. The confinement of the web between the contractile support (surface 5" of belt 5) and an opposed abutting surface constrains the web to respond to the webwlse exerted compressive forces by internal rearrangement of its yarn components and prevents response by wrinkling of the web as a whole.

The method of shrinkage of cloth by webwise compression may be eected in a manner specifically different from that hereinabove described. Referrin to Figs. 5 and 6; the cloth web 'w is fed in t e direction of the arrow over a table 40, and moist/cned b a. spray device L0. It then passes throng a web-crinkli device, comprising rolls 41, 42 uipped wlth radial, parallel, roundedged vanes, and set so that the edges of the vanes intermesh, as shown in detail in Fig. 6, and produce undulations in the web, which is then passed to the endless belt 51 which travels at a rate slower than that at which the web is fed or drawn into the crinklng vane-rolls 41, 42, so that the undulations or rid s formed in the web shall not be distur either by extension or contraction. The carrier belt 51 travels over the surface of a convex bedV 12 and enters the nip between said surface and a tense, flexible, endless band 25, preferably of smooth metal, which presses the cloth against the belt 51, supported by the bed 12, the band and belt traveling Aat the same rate, so that the pressure exerted on the web fu: shall be transverse only, i. e.-normal toV its neral snrface. A heater, 28, is provid as in the apparatus illustrated in Fig. 2.

The crinkled or undulated web, in which the yarns have been softened and their contained starchy or sizing materials rendered plastic byv moistening, `is subjected to progreively increasing transverse (n. e. normally exerted pressure as it passes into the gradually re ucin space between the belt 51 and band 25. g1`he crests or salient fea. tures of these undulations are depressed, this depression develops a com. ressive component of force, exerted at a points in parallel with the surfaces of the web, which by reason of its frictional adhesion to the carrier belt 51,can not creep on the beltto any appreciable degree. The lengthwise (e. g. warp) yarn components are by this compressive force constrained to assume a more sinuous crinkle, while the widthwise (e. g. weft) yarn components are crowded more closely toether. The web as a whole is dimensiona y contracted, occupying in its flattened condition the same length asin its` previously undulatcd condition. When thus attened and compressively condensed, the moisture is eliminated, as by the heater 28..

The lon 'tudinal state of colla se and lixation of t is state of colla se o the longitudinal element of the clot may be secured by still other means. Referring now to Fig. 7, the web w may be delivered in the direction of the arrow on to the surface of a moistening and tractor roll to which the surface of said web adheres'inthe manner of wet cloth b the capillarity ofthe wetting uid.- Whi e in this condition of moist adhesion, a rapidly reciprocating doctor knife 62 worked by an eccentric 61 of very slight eccentricity ma act u on the cloth to detain it in fine crepe-` e ri ges which are retained during passage of the cloth over a doing knife 63 on to the carrier belt 51, which may be caused to at a rate which is less than the rate of elivery to the roll 60, so as to conserve the ridge formation, over a bed 12 and enter under a tense band 25, between which and the belt 51 the crepe-like ridges are flattened to effect a longitudinally colla sed arrangement of the web com nents, w ich arrangement is then fixed as y heat and ressure. The heat may be su phed by the eater 28 of the apparatus a ve described.

.'ected to endwisecompression as a result of attening the blisters or wrinkles. A deof wrinkling which would cause the cloth to lap on itself in folds on being sub# jectbd to transverse pressure is of course avoided.

Other modes of performing the steps of the generic method and other instances of apparatus capable of carrying out these steps will occur to those skilled in the art as a conseuence of the recommendations of this specication.

Apparatussuch as is illustrated in Figs. 1, 2, 3, 4, ll and 12 of this application forms the sub}ect matter of my copending divisional application Serial No. 605,648, filed April 16, 1932.

Apparatus Asuch as is illustrated in Fi. 5, 6 and 7 of this application forms the su ject matter of my copend' divisional application Serial No. 605,649, filed April 16, 1932.

I claim:

1. Art of treatin textile webs comprising causing the said we to adhere to a support while in a moist statez causin said support to decrease in len h 1n one imension, and fixing in the web t e resulting rearrangement of its component strands by drying the web with the aid of heat.

2. Art of treating textile webs comprising causi the said web to adhere to a support while 1n a moist state, causin said support to decrease in length in one imension, and fixing in the web the resulting rearrangement of its com onent strands by drying the web with the ai of heat and transverse pressure.

3. Art of treating textile webs comprising causing the web to adhere to a' support, moistening the web, collapsing the support, subjecting the web to p ure between the collapsed support and a hot surface to x the collapsed rearrangement of the component yarns, and separating the web from the support.

, 4. Art of treating textile webs comprising causing the web to adhere to a support, moistening the web, collapsing the support andthe web on it in the direction of the length of the web during travel of the web an support, fixing the collaipsed state of the web by dryingwhile in sai collapsed state, *and doing the web from the support.

5. Art of treatin textile webs for the purpose of imposing aqengthwise shrunken condition comprising as steps, applying the web to carrier belt having substantlal thickne, moistening the web, subjecting the web to Eeressure causing it to adhere to the carrier lt,and causing the web and the surface of the belt carrying the web to collapse longlitudinally by llexin said belt toward t e surface carrying e web concomitantly with actin upon the belt to it.

6. Arto vtreatin textile we for the purose of imposing a engthwise shrunken contion comprising as steps, applying the web toa carrier belt having substantial thickness, moistening thev web, subjecting the web to perpssure causing it to adhere to the carrier.

t, and causingthe web and the surface of the belt carrying the web to collapse longitudina-lly by movin said belt in a curved path, concave towardgthe surface carrying the web, concomitantly with upon the belt to dry it. n I

7. Art of treating textile webs for the purpose of imposing a lengthwise shrunken condition comprising as steps, applying the web to a carrier belt having substantial thickness, moistening the web, subjecting the web to ressure causing it to adhere to the carrier Eelt, and causing the web and the surface of the belt carrying the web to collapse longitudinally by Iiexlng said lbelt toward the surace cari-ying the web, concomitantly with actin face acting 8. Art of treatin textile webs pose of imposing aengthwise shrunken condition comprising as steps, applying the web to a carrier belt having substantlal thickness, moistening the web, subcting the web to pressure causing it to ad ere to the carrier belt, and causing the web and the surface of the belt carrying the web to collapse longitudinally by moving said belt in a path curved in respect to the surface carrying the 9. Art of shrinking textile webs comprising as steps, moistening the web, applying the web to an extended surface of a carrier belt having a surface capable of extension and collapse, subjecting the web on th to heat ing maintenance of said heat and pressure.

10. Art of treating textile webs, characterized by rendering the yarn components of a web plastic, diminishing the superficial extent o the web by compression exerted on its material in directions parallel with the surfaces of the web, and setting the web in its diminished superficies.

1 Art of treating textile webs, characby rendering the yarn components of a web plastic, diminishing the superiicial extent of the web by compression exerted on its parallel with the surtransverse pressure faces of the web, exert e web in its diminon the web, and setting t ished superficies.

g textile webs, characthe web, diminishing by compresdirections b, and setting the web in its dimin'mhed superficies by drying and heatin 13. A f treating textile webs, characterized by moistening the web, diminishing the superficial extent of the web b surfaces of the web, while b in and heatin yMpllrg of treatingg textile webs, characterized by rendering the yarn components of the web plastic, diminishing the web in warpwise dimension by compression exerted on its yarn components warpwise and parallel with the web surfaces, and setting the web in its diminished dimension.

l5. Art of treating textile webs, characterized by rendering the yarn components of the web plastic, dimlnishing the web in warpwise dimension by compression exerted on its yarn components warpwise and the web surfaces while exerting transverse diminished dimension.

16. Art of treating textile webs, characand that of the attached web, web in its altered state.

rt of treating textile webs, characterized by aiixing a moistened web at all points to a support alterable in its superficial extent, alterin tbe superficial extent of the support and t at of the attached web,l and fixing the web in its alteredstate. Y

18.V Art of treating textile webs, charactertractible support, contractin 'ng a web at all points to a conthe support and the web with it, and iixing t tracted state.

21. Art of treating textile webs, characterized by a ing a molstened web at all points to a contractible support, contractin the su pport and the web with it, and fixing t e web in its contracted state by drying.

2. Art of treating textile webs, characterby a xing a web at all points to a contractible support, contracting the support and the web with it while maintaining transverse' preure on the web, rnd fixing the web in its contracted state.

23. Art of ized by aflixin a moistened web at all points to a contraetib e support, contracting the supe web in its conl treating textile webs, characterport and the web with it while maintaining sure, and setting the web in its altered state. transverse pressure on the web and fixing the 34. Art of treating textile webs, comprisweb in its contracted state by rying. 'f ing aixing the web to a contractible vsu 24. Art of treating textile webs, characterport by ironing pressure then causin t e ized by diminishing the superficial extent of sup ort to contract, holding the web a xed 70 the web by compression exerted on its ma' to t e contracting and contracted sup ort terial in directions parallel with the surfaces by ironin pressure. and setting the we in of theweb, and setting the web in its diminits alte state. ished superficies. 35.l Art of treating textile webs, comprism 25. Art of treating textile webs, charac ing ailixing amoistened web to a contractible 'l5 tcrized by diminishing the superficial extent support by ironing pressure, then causln the of the web by compression exerted on its masup ort to contract, holding the web a xed teri al in directions parallel with the surfaces to t e contracting and contracted supprt by of the web, exerting transverse pressure on ironing pressure, and setting the web in its altheweb, and setting the web in its diminished tered state. 80 superficies. 36. A woven textile fabric of ordinarily 26. Art of treating textile webs characshrinkable material rendered substantially terized by layin the web, in undulations, non-shrinkable in one dimension by mechanupon a support, attenmg the undulations by ically rearranging its constituent yarns after pressure generally normal to the support, Weaving2 and having its original trade finish 85 thereby diminishing the superficial extent of substantially unimpaired, the yarns of one of the web, and setting the web in its diminits yarn components being crowded together ished superficies. closer than in the web as woven, the yarns of 27. Art of treating textile vwebs, characits other yarn component having an abnorterized by producing transverse undulations mal amount of crinkle sutiicient substantial- 90 in a web, laying the web in its undulated conl to prevent shrinkage of the fabric in the dition upon a support,flattening the undulairection of these abnormally crinkled yarns tions by pressure generally normal to the when the latter tend to shorten upon subsupport, thereby diminishing the superficial sequent laundering, and the said yarns which so area of the web, and setting the web in its are crowded together having at least approxie6 diminished superficies. mately a normal amount of crinkle.

28. Art of treating textile webs compris. y 37. A'woven textile fabric of ordinarily ing agixing the web to a contractible support shrinkable material rendered substantially by pressure, then causing the support to non-shrinkableinone dimension by mechanicontract while the web remains aiiixed therecally rearranging its constituent yarns .after 100 to, and setting the web in its altered state. Weaving, and having its original trade finish 29. Art of treating textile webs, comprissubstantxallV unimpaired, the weft yarns being ailixing the web to a contractible support ing crowde together closer than in the web by ironing pressure, then causing the su ort as wovenfthe warnpgfarns having an abnor- 1c to contract while, the web remains a e mal amount GCI' esullelt Substantially 105 thereto, and setting the web in its altered t0 prevent Shrmka 0f the fabric in the di- State, rection of these a normally crinkled yarns 30. Art of treating textile webs, compriswhen the latter tend to shorten upon subseingaixingamoistened web to a contractible qlelt laundering, and the Said Weit yarn! u.; support by pressure, then causing the suphaving at least approximately a normal ort to contract while the web remains afamount Ofc e.

ed thereto, and setting the web in its al- A Wven textile fabric of ordinarily tered state. shrinkable material rendered substantially 31. Art of treating textile webs, comprisnon-shrinkable in one dimension' by mechamraing aixing a moistened web to a contractible cally rearranging its constituent yarns after support by ironing ressure, then causing the weaving, the yarns of one' of its arn comsupport to contract while the web remains afponents Vbeing crowded together c oser than fixed thereto, and setting the web in its al- 1n the web as woven, the yarns of its other tered state. t yarn component. having an abnormal amount t5 3 Art oftreating textile webs compris'- of crinkle suiliclent substantially to prevent 120 ing aiiixing the webto acontractible support shrin of the fabric. in the direction of by pressure, then causi the support to conthese a normally crinkled yarns when .the tract, holding the web ed to t e contractr latter tend to shortenupon subsequent launing and contracted sup rt by pressure, and dering, and the said yarns which are crowd C) `setting the web in its tered state. together having in the finished preshrunken 33. Art oit .ting telxtilc webs, com risstate of the fabric and before subsequent mg aflixmg a moistened web to a contrae ible laundering at least approximately. a normal support by pressure,then causi ,the support amounto crinkle.' t to contract, holding the web a ed to the 39. A woven textiley fabricof ordinarily ur contracting and contracted support by presshnkeble mlterial rendered substantially 189 Ving atlixing the web non-shrinkable in one dimension by mechanically rearranging its constituent yarns after weaving, the weft arns being crowded together closer than 1n the web as woven, the war yarns having an abnormal amount of crin le sufficient substantially to prevent shrinkage of the fabric in the direction of these abnormally crinkled yarns when the latter tend to shorten u 0n subsequent laundering, and the said Wefix) yarns having in the iinished preshrunken state of the fabric and before subsequent laundering `at least approximately a normal amount of crinkle.

40. Art of treating textile webs compristo a contractible support by pressure maintained until the support is Contracted, then causing the su port to contract with the web remaining axed thereon and lixing the web in its altered state.

41. Art of treating textile webs comprising alixing the web to a contractible support by ironing pressure Vmaintained until the support is contracted, then causing the support to contract with the web remaining affixed thereon and fixing the web in its altered state.

42. Art of treating textile webs comprising ailixing a moistenedweb to a eontractible support by pressure maintained until the support is contracted, then causing the sup ort to contract with the web remaining a. ed thereon and m'ng the web in its altered state.

43. Art of treating textile webs comprising ing a moistened web to a contractible `support by ironing pressure maintained until the support is contracted, then causing the support to Acontract with the web remaining aixed thereon and fixing the web in its altered state.

44. Art of-treatng textile ing as steps: exerting com the web in directions pa el with the surface thereof, and restr the web against undulatory lexure of its surface while prowebs comprislessive stress on ducin by said compressive stress increased unmu ation of the component yarns of the we l45. Art of treating textile webs comprising as steps: exerting com .eve stress on the web in 'ons el with the surface thereof, and co sure exerted normally toits surface toY prevent undulatlon of the web, while producin by stress an increased un ula- 46. git of 8b e webscompris- 1n as pszaixmg aw toamovmg' su rcally contractible carrier and maintainliig pressure on the webmntil surface of the carrier 1s made to contract, and durin and n fter contraction thereof, causing sai rlled to contract in p u ponentcngl'lgirns of the we while undulato distortion of the web 47. Me od of preventing as such. treating textile webs comof the weft yarn comen causing take-up of the warp components b compression exerted on the webparallel wit its surface, and setting the web in its altered state.

48. Method of treatin textile webs comprising causing take-up o the weft yarn components of the web, conning the web against a support contracti ble in its superficial extent, diminishing the superficial extent of the support while the web is confined thereagalnst, and settin the web in its altered state.

Signed y me at Troy, New York, this first day of April, 1930.

SANFORD L. CLUETT.

prising causing take-u ponents of the web, t

P nlining the web by preslos

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