US1842729A - Semisoft collar and fabric therefor - Google Patents

Description

Jan. 26, 1932.. .J. v. MOORE 1,342,729

SEMISOFT COLLAR AND FABRIC THEREFOR Filed July 28, 1926 2 Sheets-Sheet l Jan. 26, 1932. .1. v. MOORE 1,842,729

SEMISOFT COLLAR AND FABRIC THEREFOR Filed July 28, 1926 2 Sheets-Sheet 2 fiu e rzzar 7072;: V. More Patented Jan. 26, 1932 STAT ES PATENT OFFICE.

HUI-IN V. M00333, OF PAWTUCKET, RHODE; ISLAND, ASSIGNOR TO FIGURE FABRIC UOMPANY, 013 PA'WTUCKET, RHODE ISLAND, A CORPORATION OF RHODE ISLAND SEMISOFT COLLAR AND FABRIC THEREFOR Application filed July 23, 19536.

This invention relates to a semi-soft collar and to fabric for making the same.

it is the general object of my invention to provide a fabric from which semi-soft collars may be manufactured, in which fabric such combinatioi s of weave and material are used that the fabric may be cheaply and rapidly produced and that the collars formed therefrom will fold naturally to the shape required for use.

A further object of my invention is to provide a fabric for a semi-soft collar in which the band and face portions are woven in one piece but with weaves having difi crent shrinkage characteristics. More specifically the band portion so woven that it will shrink substantially more than the face portion during the process of finishing the collar thus caus ng a curvilinear set to appear therein.

The distinctive face and band portions may appear as strips extending crosswise or as strips extending lengthwise of the fabric, both of which forms are within the scope of my broad invention but this application is particularly directed to the form in which the strips extend crosswise of the fabric, so that the filling threads extend lengthwise of the collar. The other form in which the strips extend lengthwise of the fabric and the warp threads extend lengthwise of the collar will be more specifically described and claimed in another application about to be filed by me.

Elnothcr object of my invention is to provide a collar having distinctive weaves for the face and band portions, in which a fold portion is provided which lends itself naturally to its intended purpose, but which is not weakened to produce the fold effect. On the other hand 1 preferably provide an even firmer fabric at the fold portion but of a greatly unbalanced weave which causes a natural hinge action when folding in use.

in the preferred form of my invention the fabric is woven flat with straight warp and filling threads, and the number and size of both warp and filling threads are uniform througlnnit the width and length of the fabric. In certain forms of the invention, however, a difference in filling size may appear. lVhile l have described certain preferred Serial No. 125,545.

forms, I may employ variations or modifications of these constructions. For instance in one embodiment of my invention, I provide filling threads having different characteristics for different parts of the fabric, such as a slack twisted filling for the face portion, and a tight twisted filling for the band portion. While the fabric is preferably woven straight and fiat, it may in some cases be woven with the filling threads curved in the direction of their length. The fabric may also be subjected to increased tension toward the middle of its width between the point of weaving and the point of winding the fabric on the cloth roll.

My invention further relates to arrangements and combinations of parts which will be hereinafter.described and more particularly pointed out in the appended claims.

A preferred form of the invention is shown in the drawings, in which Fig. 1 is a plan view of a portion of a fabric embodying my invention;

Fig. 2 is a diagrammatic longitudinal sectional view taken along the line 22 in Fig. 1

Fi g. 3 isa plan view of a portion of my improved fabric before finishing and shrink- Fig: i is a plan view of a collar out therefrom and after the process of finishing has been completed;

Fig. 5 is a transverse sectional view of the finished collar when folded;

Fig. 6 is a plan view of a slightly modified fabric; and

Fig. 7 is a longitudinal sectional view showing a further modification.

Referring to the drawings, my improved fabric is formed of warp threads W extending lengthwise of the fabric in the usual manner, and preferably of uniform size and spacing throughout the width of the fabric. Filling threads F extend crosswise of the fabric in the usual manner and these threads also are preferably of uniform size and spacing throughout the length of the fabric. v

While both the warp and filling is prefer ably kept uniform in the Weaving of the fabric, the weave itself or the manner of interlacing the warp and filling threads is varied,

and the fabric is preferably woven in distinctive strips providing a collar face portion or flap 10, a fold portion 11, and a band portion 12 successively, this design being repeated throughout the length of the fabric.

The collar blanks are cut'from the fabric in such a way that the filling threads F extend lengthwise of the collar, and the parts 10, 11 and 12 are of widths sufficient to provide the desired width of band 14, fold 15 and flap or face portion 16 for the collar, as indicated in Figs. 3 and 4.

In the preferred form of my invention, the fabric is woven flat with the warp and filling threads extending in straight lines throughoutthe fabric as woven, except as the threads areslightly diverted from straight lines by the interlacings thereof.

I will now describe the distinctive weaves provided for the different strips 10, 11 and 'erably formed with a weave of substantial firmness, and in which the fabric is well balanced. By the term balanced I means that the'distribution of floats and ties of the warp threads is substantially the'same on the two faces of the fabric.

While the weaves may be considerably var-ied within the limits of my invention, I have indicated in Fig. 2 a weave for the face portion known as'a three andone weave, in which each warp thread is bound under or over a single filling thread for-one pick in every four. r

- In the fold portion 11, I-have shown a oneup and three-down weave-which is also of afirm composition, but in which the upper and lowersu'rfaces of the fabric are unbalanced, as allof the floatsappear upon the inmi or under face of the fabric. A weave -of this type has a natural tendency to act "as a hinge, with the floats on the concave side of the fabric when folded.

Instead of a one-up and three-down weave, as indicated in Fig; 2,1 may make a still firmer fabric'at' the fold line, by adopting a-o ne up' and two-down weave as-"indicated in Fig. 7, in which the hinge effect is even more-marked.

It will be noted that this fold portion is not in any way weakened over other portions of the fabric, but is preferably equally firm and may be evenmore firm than the outer or face portion. It is not any weakening or lightening of the fabric which produces the hinge action but the manner of interlacing the threads which causes the fold portion to have awnatural hinge-like action when folded, particularly after going through the process of shrinking and finishing.

In the band portion 10, the number and spacing of thewarp and filling threads is preferably the sameaspr'eviously described,

a reduced number of interlacings.

but the manner of interlacing the threads is different from either the face portion 12 or the fold portion 11. In the band portion 10 the fabric is less firmly woven and, as indicatedin the drawings, each warp thread passes through the fabric in the same direction only once in eight picks. I have indicated a five-up and three-down weave in which each warp thread floats on the surface for five" picks and is thenbound under the fabric for three picks, thus producing a very loosely woven fabric, in which there is A fabric of this loose construction is subject to much greater shrinkage during the processing and finishing of the cloth.

VVhile the weaves indicated in Fig. 2 are particularly well adapted for use in my improved fabric and for producing satisfactory collars having all portions woven in a single piece, it should be understood that the weaves shown are illustrative only and that they may be widely varied within the scope of my invention. For instance, a seven-up and one-down weave may be adopted for the bandportion. I V V In the preferred form of my invention the filling threads extend straightacross the fabric as indicated in- Fig. 1, but the advantage of my invention may also be utilized in a fabric in which the filling is beaten up with a curved reed so that the filling threads extend in curved lines across the fabric as indicated in Fig. 6. 7

Also inthe preferred form of my invention I rely entirely u-pon the difference in weaves toprOduce -the desired curvilinear set ofthe-collar and the desired relation of the parts when-folded to produce a smooth and-*well-fitting collar, but for very small collars or-for special purposes I may find it advisable to increase the shrinkage effect due to the difference in weaves by using a relatively slack twisted filling for the flap or face portion, and using a relatively hard twisted filling for theband portion, this latter filling being subject to greater shrinkage than the slack twisted filling, and increasing'the shrinkage in the band portion produced during the finishing operation.

Figs. 3'and' l illustrate the effect on the fabric of the shrinking or processing in the finishing of the collars. In Fig. 3, I have indicated a portion of the fabric as woven, and in Fig. 4,-I have indicated the shape of a collar formed by use of-this fabric after it has been subjected to the finishing processes,showing the curvilinear set of the collar occasioned by'the greater-shrinkage of the band portion.

In actual practice, the cloth is preferably shrunk and processed for finishing while in the piece and before theblanks are out there from. Increased shrinkage is apparent as soon as the'blanks are severed.

lll

It is desirable also that the band portion should be unbalanced, having the shorter floats on the under face of the band, as this construction when shrunk and folded naturally produces the concave shape of the band indicated at in Fig. 5. This form gives a smoother fold and eliminates fullness in the band, causing the collar to fit better than would otherwise be possible.

lWhile 1 preferably weave the fabric flat and straight, as indicated in Fig. 1, it is sometimes desirable to subject the center portion of the fabric to a greater tension between the weaving and the winding up of the fabric on the cloth roll, and for this purpose I may provide a tapered guide roll, as indicated at 22 in Fig. 1, over which the cloth s drawn by the cloth roll, not shown. The cloth roll itself, however, is preferably cylindrical.

in the following claims I use the term active warps to designate such warps as are actively used in weaving the exposed surface of the fabric as distinguished from staffer, hinder or reinforcing warps.

While l have described a collar having distinctive face, band and fold portions, I may also attain some of the advantages of my invention by using my improved face and band portions, directly joined to each other.

Having thus described my invention and the advantages thereof, I do not wish to be limited to the details herein disclosed otherwise than as set forth in the claims.

i l hat I claim is l. A single-ply semi-soft collar having the band and face portions of the collar woven in one piece and comprising filling and active warp threads only but woven in distinctive weaves so that the band portion will have su'iiistantially greater shrinkage than the face portion during the finishing operation thereby ving said collar a curvilinear set.

2-. A semi-soft collar having the filling threads extending lengthwise of the collar and having the band and face portions of the collar woven in one piece but woven in distinctive weaves so that the band portion will have substantially greater shrinkage than the face portion during the finishing operation, thereby giving said collar a curvilinear set.

3. A semi-soft collar having the filling tl'ui'eads extending lengthwise of the collar and having the band and face portions of the collar woven in one piece, and both woven with straight warp and straight filling threads but with distinctive weaves in said two portions having substantially different shrinkage characteristics.

rt. A semi-soft collar having the band and :lace portions of the collar woven in one piece and woven with a uniform number of warp threads and a uniform number of filling threads per unit of surface area throughout the length and width of the fabric, but having the Warp and filling threads differently interlaced in said two portions, so that the band will shrink more readily and to a greater extent than the face portion.

threads extending lengthwise ofthe collar and having the band and face portions of the collar woven in one piece and woven with a uniform number of warp threads anda uniform number of filling threads per unit of surface area throughout the length and width of the fabric, but having the Warp and filling threads differently interlaced in said two portions, so that the band will shrink more readily and to a greater extent than the face portion.

6. A single-ply semi-soft collar having the band and face portions of the collar woven in onepiece and comprising filling and active warp threads only, said parts being woven with straight warp and straight filling threads but in distinctive weaves effective to cause a collar cut therefrom to take a curvilinear form upon shrinkage and finishin 7. A single-ply semi-soft collar having the band and face portions of the collar woven in one pieceand comprising filling and active warp threads only, said collar having a relatively larger number of interlacings of warp and filling threads per unit of surface area in the face portion anda substantially less number of interlacings per unit of area in the bandportion, whereby greater shrinkage in the band portion is effected.

8. A semi-soft collar having the filling threads extending lengthwise of the collar and having the band and face portions of the collar woven in one piece and woven in distinctive weaves at substantially different shrinkage characteristics, the filling in the face portion being subject to relatively slight shrinkage and the filling in the band portion being subject to relatively greatershrinkage during finishing.

9. A semioft collar having the filling threads extending lengthwise of the collar and having the band and face portions of the collar woven in one piece and woven in. distinctive -weaves at substantially different shrinkage characteristics, the filling in the face portion being relatively slack twisted and the filling in the band portion being relatively tight twisted.

10. A single-ply semi-soft collar having the band and face portions of the collar woven in one piece and comprising filling and active warp threads only, and having the band portion formed with an unbalanced and more open weave effective to cause greater shrinkage of said band portion relative to said face portion and to cause an outwardly concave transverse displacement of the band portion when the collar is finished and folded for wear.

.70 5. A semi-soft collar having the filling lOl] 11. 'A single-ply semi-soft collar having the band and face portions of the collar woven in onepiece and comprising filling and active warp threads only, and woven with substantially different shrinkage characteristics, whereby the band portion shrinks more than the face portionand gives said collar a curvilinear set, said collar also having a hinge portion at the fold'with-further different weaving characteristics. a

12. A fabric for semi-soft collars so woven that thefilling threads will extend lengthwise of the collar, said fabric being woven in successive strips extending crosswise of" the fabric being formed of filling-and active warp threads only and designed for band, fold, and face portions having distinctive weaves effective to cause-greater relative shrinkage in the band portion and give said collar a curvilinear set, said fold portion being of the full strength ofthe other portions but having its elements so interlaced to produce a natural hinge efifect on folding for use.

13. A single-ply-semi-soft collar having band,fold and face portions woven in one piece and comprising filling and active warp threads only with a uniform number of warp threads and a uniform number of' filling threads perzunit of surface area but said parts having diiferent shrinkage characteristics, and said fold portion having a distinctive unbalanced weave producinga marked hinge effect upon folding after shrinkage, but being of the full strength of the other portions of the fabric. a g

14. A semi-soft collar having the filling threads extending"lengthwise of the collar and having band, fold and face portions woven with a uniform number of Warp threads and a uniform number of filling thread-s per unit of surface area but said parts having different shrinkage characteristics, and said fold' portion being more firmly woven than said face and band portions but with a distinctive unbalanced weave, producinn: a marked'hing-e effect upon folding after shrinkage. I I

15. A fabric for semi-soft collars so woven that the filling threads will extend lengthwise of the collar, said fabricbeing'weven in suc' cessive'strips extending crosswise of the fabno and design-edfoi' band, fold, and face portions each having a distinctive weave produc ing different shrinkage ratio, said three portions all containing a uniform number of warp and fillinggthreads but beingsubject to increased tension toward the middle-0f its,

width between the point of weaving and the cloth roll. a i a i 16; A single ply'semi-soft collar having the filling threads extending lengthwise ofthe fixed my signature.

JOHN V. MOORE.

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