EP2885988A1 - Shaping garment of clothing - Google Patents

Shaping garment of clothing Download PDF

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Publication number
EP2885988A1
EP2885988A1 EP14199444.2A EP14199444A EP2885988A1 EP 2885988 A1 EP2885988 A1 EP 2885988A1 EP 14199444 A EP14199444 A EP 14199444A EP 2885988 A1 EP2885988 A1 EP 2885988A1
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EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
elastic
article
stitches
equal
thread
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Granted
Application number
EP14199444.2A
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German (de)
French (fr)
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EP2885988B1 (en
Inventor
Bertrand Avio
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Individual
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Individual
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Publication date
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Publication of EP2885988A1 publication Critical patent/EP2885988A1/en
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Publication of EP2885988B1 publication Critical patent/EP2885988B1/en
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    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A41—WEARING APPAREL
    • A41C—CORSETS; BRASSIERES
    • A41C1/00—Corsets or girdles
    • A41C1/02—Elastic corsets
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04B—KNITTING
    • D04B21/00—Warp knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
    • D04B21/14—Fabrics characterised by the incorporation by knitting, in one or more thread, fleece, or fabric layers, of reinforcing, binding, or decorative threads; Fabrics incorporating small auxiliary elements, e.g. for decorative purposes
    • D04B21/18—Fabrics characterised by the incorporation by knitting, in one or more thread, fleece, or fabric layers, of reinforcing, binding, or decorative threads; Fabrics incorporating small auxiliary elements, e.g. for decorative purposes incorporating elastic threads
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A41—WEARING APPAREL
    • A41B—SHIRTS; UNDERWEAR; BABY LINEN; HANDKERCHIEFS
    • A41B2400/00—Functions or special features of shirts, underwear, baby linen or handkerchiefs not provided for in other groups of this subclass
    • A41B2400/38—Shaping the contour of the body or adjusting the figure
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2501/00—Wearing apparel
    • D10B2501/02—Underwear

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to the technical field of clothing items shaping and sculpting intended to reduce in volume and smooth the part of the body of the user covered with said article of clothing.
  • These garment garment articles can be made seamlessly on circular knitting machines from a mesh yarn and an elastic yarn inserted in weft, the knitted articles thus obtained belong to the family of gathered stitches. These knitted articles are then finalized by the addition of one or more reinforcing textile panels intended to improve the support of the areas of the covered body. These articles of clothing can also be made by assembling several elastic textile panels.
  • JP 2005 320,643 relates to a garment such as a panty, comprising a component A, comprising a textile panel with knit stitches, obtained by knitting an inelastic yarn described as having a title between 33 dtex and 231 dtex and a yarn elastic described as having a titer between 15 dtex and 154 dtex.
  • the textile panel may comprise two knitted yarns in knit mesh extending over at least two columns of stitches on a simple Raschel loom [0028]. The textile panel will therefore not present different faces and places intermittently connected by closed and / or open meshes.
  • the textile panel obtained will not present high elasticity and the same order in the warp and weft directions at the expense of comfort and conformability to the area of the body to be carved.
  • EP 2.017.380 A1 discloses the manufacture of a knitted textile panel knitted with a single guide bar supporting two son namely an elastic thread 10a and an inelastic thread 10b having titles described as between 22 dtex and 60 dtex on a single needle knitting loom [0026].
  • the resulting textile panel will not have satisfactory elastic properties in the warp and weft directions, nor satisfactory properties of nervousness and conformability. Indeed, the inelastic wire being supported on the same guide bar that the elastic wire will tend to block the elastic wire, which will not form loops alone but always accompanied by the inelastic wire that follows.
  • US 4,817,400 relates to a jerseys knit formed with an inelastic yarn and comprising a first elastic yarn, optionally a second elastic yarn, arranged (s) according to stitches picked in the weft direction of the knitted stitch knit.
  • the title of the elastic yarn is described as being between 10dtex and 960 dtex. Nevertheless, in the only embodiment cited, the textile panel is knitted on a Raschel loom with a single needle bed using a single guide bar supporting the inelastic yarn and, the elastic yarn, the title of the elastic yarn being of 160 dtex.
  • the elasticities indicated in the warp and weft directions are of the same order; nevertheless the elastic thread is very big.
  • the textile panel will therefore probably not have good conformability properties to the area of the body to be sculpted and may have a compressive effect too important.
  • US 7,555,922 relates to a knit stitch knit, obtained by knitting three son with the aid of three separate guide bars on a knitting machine Raschel.
  • the wire supported on the third guide bar forms weft jets which are different from a thread inserted into the weft along the entire width of the textile panel.
  • the textile panel obtained will not have satisfactory elasticity in the warp and weft directions and good conformability. Indeed, the weft jets tend to block the elasticity of the textile panel because of the many back and forth made in the chain direction.
  • US 2012/0297840 relates to a knitted fabric knit stitch comprising non-elastic son A and elastic son B on a single needle loom.
  • the elasticities obtained in the warp and weft directions according to the exemplary embodiments are of the same order. Nevertheless, these elasticities are low given the proportion by weight of elastic threads used. If an excessive amount of elastic threads is used, the textile panel may have an excessive compressive effect, or even a tourniquet effect, on the area of the body to be carved.
  • an article of clothing shaping, sculpting that is comfortable for the user.
  • One of the aims of the present invention is to provide an article of clothing that is sheathing and sculpting that is as comfortable as a conventional undergarment while providing sculpting effects of clothing articles sheathing the state of the art. technical.
  • the subject of the present invention is, according to a first aspect, an article of sculpting clothing comprising an anterior part and / or a posterior portion comprising at least one elastic knitted fabric panel with knit stitches in a weave pattern from at least one first yarn and a second yarn, said first yarn being less than or equal to 40 dtex, said second yarn being elastic and has a titre less than or equal to 70 dtex.
  • said first and second yarns form knit stitches extending over at least two stitching columns and are knitted on two different guide bars.
  • the combination of a knit weave with strands, at least one thread is elastic, and low titre allows to form a textile panel having a low basis weight (g / m 2 ), very flexible and very resistant at a time.
  • the knitted textile panels comprise elastic weft yarns having a titer of between about 156 dtex and about 310 dtex. This large size of the elastic weft yarn is retained to impart a significant compressive effect to the knitted panel but also for these weft son are sufficiently resistant to be implemented on the knitting looms, especially easier to weave.
  • the elastic yarns knitted in the state of the art generally comprise cover yarns in order to facilitate their implementation. These weft yarns having a titration greater than or equal to 156 dtex also show good nervousness because of their important section.
  • One of the merits of the invention is to combine knitted stitches in a knit armor, with low-titre yarns (dtex), in particular a second low-titre elastic yarn (dtex), to obtain a knitted panel having equal performances.
  • dtex low-titre yarns
  • dtex second low-titre elastic yarn
  • the armor leachable indeed has the advantage of blocking the second elastic wire at regular intervals which improves its nervousness despite its weak title, and therefore its small section.
  • said at least one textile panel according to the invention (especially before dyeing) has a basis weight less than or equal to 150 g / m 2 , preferably less than or equal to 100 g / m 2 , and even more preferably less than or equal to at 80 g / m 2 .
  • the dyeing increases the basis weight (g / m 2 ) of the elastic textile panel by only about 10% to 20%.
  • the textile panel according to the invention comprises a proportion by weight of yarn (s) elastic (s) relative to its total basis weight less than or equal to 50%, still preferably less than or equal to 40%, particularly lower or equal to 35%, more particularly less than or equal to 30%, in particular less than or equal to 25%.
  • the article of clothing sculpting and sheathing according to the invention may be a panty, a sheath, a panty, a body, a bra, a combination or a T-shirt comprising anterior and / or posterior parts (S), in particular opposed (s), and arranged (s) so as to cover worn respectively one or more areas (s) and / or posterior (s) of the trunk and / or thighs.
  • said part (s) front (s) and / or posterior (s) each comprise at least one elastic textile panel according to the invention.
  • article of clothing sculpting and sheathing is meant an article of clothing molding one or more areas of the body which it covers in order to smooth and redraw the curves of said zones of the body, and possibly to bring a functional aspect, in particular compressive.
  • the article of clothing according to the invention may comprise at least an anterior part and at least a posterior part, each of said parts comprising at least one elastic textile panel according to the invention.
  • Said anterior and posterior parts may be arranged so as to cover at least 60%, for example 75% of the circumference of the zone of the body to be smoothed and carved, in particular as regards a panty, a sheath, a panty, a body, a jumpsuit or a T-shirt.
  • a demaillable textile panel comprises indifferently picked stitches or stitches which can be unraveled in the warp and / or in the weft direction.
  • a textile panel knitted in a wearable armor comprises stitches which are produced by needles individually fed by a separate yarn in the longitudinal direction (also referred to as warp or stitch) of the knitted panel.
  • Each needle of the knitting machine receives a yarn and each yarn produces its mesh alternately.
  • Each row shifts the wires so that each of them feeds a needle other than the one he fed in the previous row to obtain interlaced columns of stitches, and completely unmountable.
  • Said at least one textile panel according to the invention can be knitted on one of the following knitting machines: Rashel, Chaine, Simplex or Trameur, preferably a Simplex loom or a loom Tram (which by definition are straight knitting machines) ).
  • double needles needle of a knitting machine is meant the two needle bars of this trade.
  • the Simplex loom includes by definition two needle bars or needle bars while the loom includes only one needle bar.
  • the first yarn according to the invention is preferably a monofilament (or single filament) or multifilament yarn but with a reduced number of filaments, preferably less than or equal to 20, in particular less than or equal to 5.
  • elastic textile panel any textile panel having an elongation under a force of 14Newtons applied at a speed of 200 meters / min, in the warp and / or weft direction, greater than or equal to 70%, preferably greater than or equal to 70%. equal to 100%. This value can be measured on the bare elastic textile panel or after dyeing.
  • said characteristic according to which said first and second yarns form knitted stitches extending over at least two columns of stitches advantageously makes it possible to bring more elasticity and conformability to said textile panel if the stitches were spread over a column of stitches. , which would correspond to chain stitches that block the elasticity.
  • the first yarn and the second yarn are therefore knitted on two different guide bars, i.e a wire guide bar.
  • the characteristic according to which the textile panel is knitted on a knitting machine comprising two needle beds confers on the textile panel according to the invention different faces and places connected intermittently by open and / or closed meshes. Said meshes then form somehow points of connection between the back face and the face of said panel at which the sliding of the first wire and / or the second wire is possible which promotes the flexibility of the elastic textile panel and therefore the comfort of the wearer of the article of clothing.
  • the insertion of a third yarn which is elastic in weft, in addition to the second elastic yarn makes it possible to impart considerable deformability and flexibility to the textile panel while adjusting the sculpting and sheathing effect of said panel.
  • the textile panels certainly have an elasticity in the weft direction but which is very much lower than that obtained in the warp direction.
  • the first yarn and / or the second yarn form knit stitches extending over at least three columns of stitches, preferably on at least four stitch columns.
  • the number of mesh columns on which the second wire extends should not be too important so that the textile panel has a good nervousness and sculpting properties.
  • the second elastic thread is naked.
  • bare elastic wire is meant a wire that does not include a cover wire.
  • the second elastic thread is transparent or allows light rays to pass so that the textile panel according to the invention has a certain transparency which improves the aesthetics and breathability of said panel.
  • This arrangement also has the advantage that only the knitting armor can control the nervousness of the second elastic thread, which gives more flexibility to said textile panel. Indeed, when the cover son are arranged around an elastic core wire, these son block the core wire during its elongation.
  • the first yarn, and optionally the second yarn form closed meshes extending over at least three columns of stitches, preferably on at least four stitched stitches, and even more preferably on at least five stitched stitches. .
  • the first yarn, and possibly the second yarn form (s) open meshes arranged between closed meshes, said closed and open stitches extending over at least three columns of stitches, preferably form (n) at minus one open mesh for two closed meshes, said open and closed meshes extending over at least three columns of meshes.
  • the textile panel is for example knitted on a simplex loom.
  • the textile panel according to the invention thus advantageously has different faces and locations connected intermittently by said open and / or closed meshes.
  • Said open and / or closed meshes form, as it were, points of connection between the face back and the face of said panel at which the sliding of the first wire and / or the second wire is possible which promotes the flexibility of the elastic textile panel and therefore the comfort of the wearer of the article of clothing.
  • the closed meshes, opposite the open meshes, block the threads that pass at their level, which promotes the nervousness and conformability of the textile panel.
  • the two guide bars receiving respectively the first wire and the second wire are threaded to full.
  • said at least one elastic textile panel comprises a third elastic thread inserted in a naked frame.
  • the third elastic thread has a titre of less than or equal to 70 dtex.
  • the textile panel is knitted on a knitting machine.
  • elastic yarn in the context of the present invention is understood to mean any yarn having an elongation at break of greater than or equal to 100%, preferably greater than or equal to 200%, more preferably greater than or equal to 300%, and especially greater than or equal to 300%. equal to 400%.
  • the second elastic thread, and optionally the third elastic thread has a titre of less than or equal to 50 dtex, more preferably less than or equal to 30 dtex, even more preferably less than or equal to 20 dtex, and even more preferably lower or equal to 15 dtex.
  • the second elastic yarn, and optionally the third elastic yarn may be made of elastane, that is to say based on polyurethane, by examples such as those marketed under the trademark Dorlastan®, Glospan®, Linel®, Creora® or Lycra®.
  • the second elastic yarn, possibly the third elastic yarn may also be of latex, that is to say based on natural or synthetic gum, such as for example elastodiene, or in any other equivalent material known from the art. state of the art.
  • the third yarn is inserted in weft all the rows of stitches or all of the two or one of three rows of stitches in the textile panel.
  • the second elastic yarn extends over a number of columns of meshes p greater than at least one column of stitches to the number of columns of meshes n over which the first yarn extends, the numbers n and p being integers greater than or equal to 2.
  • This arrangement gives flexibility and therefore conformability to the elastic textile panel according to the invention.
  • the first yarn has a titer (dtex) of less than or equal to 25 dtex, more preferably less than or equal to 20 dtex, and comprises a number of filaments of less than or equal to 10, preferably less than or equal to 5.
  • the first thread is a synthetic thread.
  • the elastic textile panel according to the invention has a gauge greater than or equal to 20, preferably greater than or equal to 25, more preferably greater than or equal to 28.
  • the gauge according to the invention means the number of columns of mesh per inch (or 2.54 cm).
  • the first thread is made of polyamide 6 or 6-6.
  • the first wire could also be polyethylene terephthalate, polypropylene or in a cellulosic material, such as cotton, viscose or bamboo, for example.
  • the front part comprises two superimposed textile panels and / or the rear part comprises two superimposed textile panels, said two superposed textile panels being integral along their peripheries.
  • the textile panels are secured in their peripheries for example by sewing or any other equivalent means known from the state of the art.
  • This arrangement improves comfort by avoiding stiffening the front part and / or the front part.
  • the subject of the present invention is, according to a second aspect, a method of manufacturing a sculpting clothing article as defined according to any one of the embodiments described above, said article of clothing comprising a front part and / or or a posterior portion comprising at least one elastic knitted fabric panel with knit stitches in a wearable armor.
  • said method comprises a step of knitting said textile panel on a Simplex loom comprising two needle beds from at least a first yarn and a second yarn, said first yarn having a titre of less than or equal to 40 dtex said second yarn is elastic and has a titre of less than or equal to 70 dtex, said first and second yarns form knit stitches extending over at least two stitching columns and are knitted on two different guide bars so as to obtain a textile panel having faces facing and place intermittently connected by knit meshes open and / or closed.
  • the subject of the present invention is, according to a third aspect, a method of manufacturing a sculpting clothing article as defined according to any one of the embodiments described above, said article of clothing comprising an anterior portion and / or a posterior portion comprising at least one elastic knitted fabric panel with knit stitches in a wearable armor.
  • said method comprises a step of knitting said textile panel on a loom from at least a first yarn, a second yarn and a third yarn, said first yarn having a titre of less than or equal to 40 dtex said second yarn is elastic and has a titre of less than or equal to 70 dtex, said first and second yarns form knit stitches extending over at least two stitching columns and are knitted on two different guide bars, and said third yarn is elastic and inserted in a frame so that said third elastic thread is disposed in the textile panel substantially parallel to the rows of stitches.
  • the article of clothing 1 represented in figure 1 comprises an anterior portion 2 and a posterior portion 3 opposite and arranged so as to cover in operation the anterior and posterior areas of the body of the corresponding user.
  • the article of clothing 1 is a panty having a sculpting effect and a smoothing effect of the anterior and posterior areas of the body that it covers.
  • the article of clothing 1 comprises a holding elastic band 4 on said anterior and posterior areas of the trunk of the user.
  • the front part 2 comprises an elastic textile panel 5 according to the invention, likewise the posterior part 3 comprises an elastic textile panel 6 according to the invention.
  • the figure 2 represents an article of clothing 7 which differs from the article of clothing 1 shown in figure 1 in that the front part 8 comprises two elastic textile panels 9, 10 according to the invention superimposed. Similarly, the posterior portion 11 comprises two elastic textile panels according to the invention superimposed 12,13.
  • the elastic textile panels 9 and 10 on the one hand and the elastic textile panels 12 and 13 on the other hand are secured in their common peripheral zones 14 and 15 by seams 16 and 17.
  • the textile panels 12 and 13 forming the anterior portion 11 and the textile panels 9 and 10 forming the rear portion 8 are integral only in the peripheral areas 14 and 15 which improves the conformability of the article of clothing 7.
  • the provision of two elastic textile panels 9,10 and 12,13 superimposed improves the sculpting effect and the smoothing effect of the article of clothing 7 compared to the article of clothing 1.
  • the knitting armor 18 shown in FIG. figure 4 corresponds to the knitting armor of textile panels 5,6,9,10,12 and 13.
  • Said textile panels 5, 6, 9, 10, 12 and 13 are knitted knitwear in a knit weave, for example knitted on a simplex knitting machine, which implicitly comprises two needle beds, also referred to herein as two needle bars.
  • Said textile panels 5, 6, 9, 10, 12 and 13 are knitted with a first yarn 19 having a titer of less than or equal to 40 dtex and a second elastic yarn 20 having a titer of less than or equal to 70 dtex.
  • Said first 19 and second 20 yarns form knitted stitches extending over at least two columns of stitches 21.
  • the second elastic yarn 20 is bare, that is to say that it is not covered with a covering thread. , arranged for example by wrapping.
  • the first wire 19 and the second wire 20 form closed meshes 22 extending respectively over five columns of mesh 21 and four columns of mesh 21.
  • first wire 19 and the second wire 20 form open meshes 23 arranged between closed meshes 22, said closed meshes 22 and open 23 extending over at least three columns of stitches 21.
  • first thread 19 and the second thread 20 form at least one open stitch 23 for two closed meshes 22, said open meshes 23 and closed 22 extending over at least three columns of mesh 21.
  • the first 19 and the second son 20 are threaded for example full, ie on all the needles of the two bars to guards supporting them, a wire guide bar.
  • the gauge is preferably greater than or equal to 25, preferably greater than or equal to 28.
  • the second wire 20 has for example a title less than or equal to 30 dtex, especially less than or equal to 15 dtex.
  • the first thread 19 is a single filament synthetic thread, for example, having a titre of less than or equal to 25 dtex, especially less than or equal to 20 dtex.
  • the undyed textile panels 5 , 6 , 9 , 10, 12 and 13 have a basis weight of less than or equal to 70 g / m 2 , within +/- 10%.
  • the elongations obtained under a force of 14N and a tensile speed of 200 meters / min in the warp and weft directions measured on the textile panels 5, 6, 9, 10, 12 and 13 after dyeing are greater than 100%.
  • the elongation at break in the warp direction is from 205% to +/- 10% and the elongation in the weft direction is of the order of 265% to +/- 10%.
  • elongations at break in the warp and weft directions of substantially the same order are obtained.
  • the article of clothing 24 shown in figure 5 comprises an anterior portion 25 and a posterior portion 26.
  • the posterior portion 26 comprises a textile panel 27.
  • the anterior portion 25 comprises an elastic textile panel 28.
  • the anterior portion 25 also comprises two elastic textile panels 29 and 30 superimposed X-shaped on the elastic textile panel 28. These elastic textile panels 29 and 30 according to the invention provide additional reinforcement at the abdominal area of the article of clothing 24 and are identical to the panels 5,6,9,10,12 , and 13.
  • the figure 6 represents the knitting tack 31 of the elastic textile panels 27 and 28.
  • a first thread 32 and a second elastic thread 33 form closed knit meshes 34 extending respectively over three columns of stitches 35 and two columns of stitches 35.
  • textiles 27 and 28 also comprise a third elastic thread 36 inserted in frame, in this example on all rows of stitches.
  • the third elastic thread 36 is arranged in a direction substantially parallel to the rows of stitches of the elastic textile panels 27 and 28.
  • the first thread 32 and the second thread 33 are threaded for example fully, ie on all the hands of the two guide bars. supporting them, a wire guide bar.
  • the gauge is preferably greater than or equal to 25, more preferably greater than or equal to 28.
  • the second wire 33 and the third wire 36 are preferably bare, ie they do not include cover wires.
  • the second yarn 33 and the third yarn 36, both elastic, have a titer of less than or equal to 20 dtex, preferably less than or equal to 15 dtex.
  • the first wire 32 is identical to the first wire 19.
  • the undyed textile panel 28 has a basis weight less than or equal to 80 g / m 2 , within +/- 10%.
  • the elongations obtained under a force of 14 N and a tensile speed of 200 meter / min in the warp and weft direction measured on the textile panel 28 after dyeing are greater than 100%, preferably greater than 120%.
  • the textile panels 27 and 28 comprise 80% by weight of said first yarn 32 and 20% by weight of said second yarn 33 and the third yarn 36
  • the elongation at break in the warp direction is of the order of 275 % to +/- 10%
  • the elongation in the weft direction is of the order of 275% to +/- 10%.
  • elongations at break in the warp and weft directions of substantially the same order are obtained.
  • the figure 7 represents the article of clothing 1 represented in figure 1 superimposed with an article of clothing 37 of the state of the art, said articles 1 and 37 being intended for a size 40-42. It can thus be seen that, thanks to the conformability and elasticity of the article of clothing 1 according to the invention, the quantity of elastic textile panels necessary for making an article of a given cutter is considerably less than that required in the invention. state of the art for the same cutting. It has thus been observed a reduction of more than 30% of the patronage necessary to make an article of clothing according to the invention compared to an article of the prior art, which represents a very important saving. In addition, the performances in terms of the sculpting effect and the smoothing effect of the articles of clothing 1 and 24 are similar, or even higher, for a clearly improved comfort compared to the articles of sculpting clothing of the state of the art.
  • Table 1 shows the average measurements obtained on a panel of 10 testers who tested the articles of clothing 1 and 24 compared to two different articles of the state of the art.
  • Table ⁇ b> 1 ⁇ / b> Initial measurements (cm) Measurements wearing the article of clothing 1 (cm) Measurements wearing the article of clothing 24 (cm) Measurements wearing a first article of clothing of the state of the art (cm) Measurements wearing a second article of clothing of the state of the art (cm) Waist 71 cm 68.5 69 67.5 69 Round measured at the navel 89 cm 87 87 86 88.5 Hipster 97.5 cm 93 94.5 97 95.5

Abstract

La présente invention a pour objet un article d'habillement (1) sculptant comprenant une partie antérieure (2) et/ou une partie postérieure (3) comprenant au moins un panneau textile élastique tricoté à mailles jetées selon une armure indémaillable (5,6) à partir au moins d'un premier fil et d'un second fil, ledit premier fil ayant un titre inférieur ou égal à 40 dtex, ledit second fil est élastique et a un titre inférieur ou égal à 70 dtex.The subject of the present invention is a sculpting article of clothing (1) comprising an anterior part (2) and / or a posterior part (3) comprising at least one elastic knitted textile panel with knit stitches in a tear-resistant weave (5,6). ) from at least a first thread and a second thread, said first thread having a title less than or equal to 40 dtex, said second thread is elastic and has a title less than or equal to 70 dtex.

Description

La présente invention concerne le domaine technique des articles d'habillement gainant et sculptant destinés à réduire en volume et lisser la partie du corps de l'usager recouvert dudit article d'habillement.The present invention relates to the technical field of clothing items shaping and sculpting intended to reduce in volume and smooth the part of the body of the user covered with said article of clothing.

Arrière-plan de l'inventionBackground of the invention

Ces articles d'habillement gainant peuvent être confectionnés sans couture sur des métiers à tricoter circulaires à partir d'un fil de maille et d'un fil élastique inséré en trame, les articles tricotés ainsi obtenus appartiennent à la famille des mailles cueillies. Ces articles tricotés sont ensuite finalisés par l'ajout d'un ou plusieurs panneaux textiles de renfort destinés à améliorer le soutien des zones du corps recouvertes. Ces articles d'habillement peuvent également être confectionnés par l'assemblage de plusieurs panneaux textiles élastiques.These garment garment articles can be made seamlessly on circular knitting machines from a mesh yarn and an elastic yarn inserted in weft, the knitted articles thus obtained belong to the family of gathered stitches. These knitted articles are then finalized by the addition of one or more reinforcing textile panels intended to improve the support of the areas of the covered body. These articles of clothing can also be made by assembling several elastic textile panels.

Ces articles d'habillement gainant ont pour inconvénients qu'ils sont très inconfortables et compriment très fortement les zones du corps qu'ils recouvrent. La compression exercée est tellement forte qu'on observe la formation de plis ou bourrelets disgracieux en périphérie desdits articles d'habillement lorsqu'ils sont portés. De plus, la compression est si importante que ce type d'article d'habillement n'est porté que quelques heures et retiré au cours de la journée. Ces articles d'habillement, bien qu'étant destinés à être portés sous les vêtements, sont en outre, lourds, épais et peu respirant.These clothing items have the disadvantage that they are very uncomfortable and very strongly compress the areas of the body they cover. The compression exerted is so strong that we observe the formation of unsightly folds or bulges on the periphery of said articles of clothing when they are worn. In addition, the compression is so important that this type of article of clothing is worn only a few hours and removed during the day. These articles of clothing, although intended to be worn under clothing, are also heavy, thick and little breathable.

JP 2005 320 643 a pour objet un vêtement tel qu'un panty, comprenant un composant A, comprenant un panneau textile à mailles jetées, obtenu par tricotage d'un fil inélastique décrit comme pouvant avoir un titre compris entre 33 dtex et 231 dtex et d'un fil élastique décrit comme pouvant avoir un titre compris entre 15 dtex et 154 dtex. Le panneau textile peut comprendre deux fils tricotés selon des mailles tricots s'étendant sur au moins deux colonnes de mailles sur un métier Raschel simple fonture [0028]. Le panneau textile ne présentera donc pas des faces envers et endroit différentes reliées par intermittence par des mailles fermées et/ou ouvertes. Le panneau textile obtenu ne présentera pas des élasticités élevées et du même ordre dans les sens chaine et trame au détriment du confort et de la conformabilité à la zone du corps à sculpter. JP 2005 320,643 relates to a garment such as a panty, comprising a component A, comprising a textile panel with knit stitches, obtained by knitting an inelastic yarn described as having a title between 33 dtex and 231 dtex and a yarn elastic described as having a titer between 15 dtex and 154 dtex. The textile panel may comprise two knitted yarns in knit mesh extending over at least two columns of stitches on a simple Raschel loom [0028]. The textile panel will therefore not present different faces and places intermittently connected by closed and / or open meshes. The textile panel obtained will not present high elasticity and the same order in the warp and weft directions at the expense of comfort and conformability to the area of the body to be carved.

EP 2.017.380 A1 décrit la fabrication d'un panneau textile à mailles jetées, tricoté à l'aide d'une seule barre à passettes supportant deux fils à savoir un fil élastique 10a et un fil inélastique 10b ayant des titres décrits comme compris entre 22 dtex et 60 dtex sur un métier à tricoter simple fonture [0026]. Le panneau textile obtenu ne présentera pas des propriétés d'élasticité dans les sens chaine et trame satisfaisantes, ni des propriétés de nervosité et de conformabilité satisfaisantes. En effet, le fil inélastique étant supporté sur la même barre à passettes que le fil élastique aura tendance à bloquer le fil élastique, lequel ne formera pas des boucles seules mais toujours accompagnées du fil inélastique qui le suit. EP 2.017.380 A1 discloses the manufacture of a knitted textile panel knitted with a single guide bar supporting two son namely an elastic thread 10a and an inelastic thread 10b having titles described as between 22 dtex and 60 dtex on a single needle knitting loom [0026]. The resulting textile panel will not have satisfactory elastic properties in the warp and weft directions, nor satisfactory properties of nervousness and conformability. Indeed, the inelastic wire being supported on the same guide bar that the elastic wire will tend to block the elastic wire, which will not form loops alone but always accompanied by the inelastic wire that follows.

US 4 817 400 a pour objet un tricot à mailles jetées formé avec un fil inélastique et comprenant un premier fil élastique, éventuellement un second fil élastique, disposé(s) selon des mailles cueillies dans la direction trame du tricot à mailles jetées. Le titre du fil élastique est décrit comme pouvant être compris entre 10dtex et 960 dtex. Néanmoins, dans le seul exemple de réalisation cité, le panneau textile est tricoté sur un métier Raschel à une seule fonture à l'aide d'une seule barre à passettes supportant le fil inélastique et, le fil élastique, le titre du fil élastique étant de 160 dtex. US 4,817,400 relates to a jerseys knit formed with an inelastic yarn and comprising a first elastic yarn, optionally a second elastic yarn, arranged (s) according to stitches picked in the weft direction of the knitted stitch knit. The title of the elastic yarn is described as being between 10dtex and 960 dtex. Nevertheless, in the only embodiment cited, the textile panel is knitted on a Raschel loom with a single needle bed using a single guide bar supporting the inelastic yarn and, the elastic yarn, the title of the elastic yarn being of 160 dtex.

Les élasticités indiquées dans les sens chaine et trame sont du même ordre ; néanmoins le fil élastique est très gros. Le panneau textile ne présentera donc probablement pas de bonnes propriétés de conformabilité à la zone du corps à sculpter et risque de présenter un effet compressif trop important.The elasticities indicated in the warp and weft directions are of the same order; nevertheless the elastic thread is very big. The textile panel will therefore probably not have good conformability properties to the area of the body to be sculpted and may have a compressive effect too important.

US 7 555 922 a pour objet un tricot à mailles jetées, obtenu par tricotage de trois fils à l'aide de trois barres à passettes distinctes sur un métier à tricoter Raschel. Le fil supporté sur la troisième barre à passettes forme des jetées de trame qui sont différentes d'un fil inséré en trame selon toute la largeur du panneau textile. Le panneau textile obtenu ne présentera pas des élasticités dans les sens chaine et trame satisfaisantes ainsi qu'une bonne conformabilité. En effet, les jetées de trame ont tendance à bloquer l'élasticité du panneau textile du fait des nombreux allers et retours effectués dans la direction chaine. US 7,555,922 relates to a knit stitch knit, obtained by knitting three son with the aid of three separate guide bars on a knitting machine Raschel. The wire supported on the third guide bar forms weft jets which are different from a thread inserted into the weft along the entire width of the textile panel. The textile panel obtained will not have satisfactory elasticity in the warp and weft directions and good conformability. Indeed, the weft jets tend to block the elasticity of the textile panel because of the many back and forth made in the chain direction.

US 2012/0297840 a pour objet un textile tricoté à mailles jetées comprenant des fils non élastiques A et des fils élastiques B sur un métier simple fonture. Les élasticités obtenues dans les sens chaine et trame d'après les exemples de réalisation sont du même ordre. Néanmoins, ces élasticités sont faibles compte tenu de la proportion en poids de fils élastiques utilisés. Si une quantité trop importante de fils élastiques est utilisée, le panneau textile risque d'avoir un effet compressif trop important, voire un effet garrot, sur la zone du corps à sculpter. US 2012/0297840 relates to a knitted fabric knit stitch comprising non-elastic son A and elastic son B on a single needle loom. The elasticities obtained in the warp and weft directions according to the exemplary embodiments are of the same order. Nevertheless, these elasticities are low given the proportion by weight of elastic threads used. If an excessive amount of elastic threads is used, the textile panel may have an excessive compressive effect, or even a tourniquet effect, on the area of the body to be carved.

Il existe donc un besoin pour un article d'habillement gainant, sculptant qui soit confortable pour l'usager. En particulier, un article d'habillement léger, respirant, élastique, sans toutefois pocher, et qui assurent les mêmes performances de gainage qu'un article de l'état de la technique au moins à taillant égal.There is therefore a need for an article of clothing shaping, sculpting that is comfortable for the user. In particular, an article of light clothing, breathable, elastic, without poaching, and which provide the same cladding performance as an article of the state of the art at least equal cutting.

L'un des buts visés par la présente invention est de proposer un article d'habillement gainant et sculptant qui soit aussi confortable qu'un sous-vêtement classique tout en apportant les effets sculptant des articles d'habillement gainant de l'état de la technique.One of the aims of the present invention is to provide an article of clothing that is sheathing and sculpting that is as comfortable as a conventional undergarment while providing sculpting effects of clothing articles sheathing the state of the art. technical.

Résumé de l'inventionSummary of the invention

La présente invention a pour objet selon un premier aspect un article d'habillement sculptant, comprenant une partie antérieure et/ou une partie postérieure comprenant au moins un panneau textile élastique tricoté à mailles jetées selon une armure indémaillable à partir au moins d'un premier fil et d'un second fil, ledit premier fil ayant un titre inférieur ou égal à 40 dtex, ledit second fil est élastique et a un titre inférieur ou égal à 70 dtex.The subject of the present invention is, according to a first aspect, an article of sculpting clothing comprising an anterior part and / or a posterior portion comprising at least one elastic knitted fabric panel with knit stitches in a weave pattern from at least one first yarn and a second yarn, said first yarn being less than or equal to 40 dtex, said second yarn being elastic and has a titre less than or equal to 70 dtex.

Avantageusement, lesdits premier et second fils forment des mailles tricots s'étendant sur au moins deux colonnes de mailles et sont tricotés sur deux barres à passettes différentes.Advantageously, said first and second yarns form knit stitches extending over at least two stitching columns and are knitted on two different guide bars.

Ledit panneau textile est alors :

  • soit tricoté sur un métier à tricoter comportant deux fontures d'aiguilles en sorte que ledit panneau textile présente des faces envers et endroit reliées par intermittence par des mailles tricots ouvertes et/ou fermées,
  • soit tricoté sur un métier trameur avec un troisième fil élastique inséré en trame en sorte que ledit troisième fil élastique soit disposé dans le panneau textile de manière sensiblement parallèle aux rangées de mailles.
Said textile panel is then:
  • is knitted on a knitting machine having two needle beds so that said textile panel has faces facing and place intermittently connected by open and / or closed knit meshes,
  • is knitted on a framer's loom with a third elastic thread inserted into a weft so that said third elastic thread is arranged in the textile panel substantially parallel to the rows of stitches.

Avantageusement, la combinaison d'une armure de tricotage indémaillable avec des fils, dont au moins un fil est élastique, et de faible titre permet de former un panneau textile ayant une masse surfacique faible (g/m2), très souple et très résistant à la fois.Advantageously, the combination of a knit weave with strands, at least one thread is elastic, and low titre allows to form a textile panel having a low basis weight (g / m 2 ), very flexible and very resistant at a time.

Dans l'état de la technique, les panneaux textiles tricotés comprennent des fils de trame élastiques ayant un titre compris entre 156 dtex et 310 dtex environ. Cette grosseur importante du fil de trame élastique est retenue pour impartir un effet compressif important au panneau tricoté mais également pour que ces fils de trame soient suffisamment résistants pour être mis en oeuvre sur les métiers à tricoter, en particulier plus facile à ourdir. Les fils élastiques tricotés dans l'état de la technique comprennent généralement des fils de couverture afin de faciliter leur mise en oeuvre. Ces fils de trame ayant un titrage supérieur ou égal à 156 dtex présentent également une bonne nervosité du fait de leur section importante.In the state of the art, the knitted textile panels comprise elastic weft yarns having a titer of between about 156 dtex and about 310 dtex. This large size of the elastic weft yarn is retained to impart a significant compressive effect to the knitted panel but also for these weft son are sufficiently resistant to be implemented on the knitting looms, especially easier to weave. The elastic yarns knitted in the state of the art generally comprise cover yarns in order to facilitate their implementation. These weft yarns having a titration greater than or equal to 156 dtex also show good nervousness because of their important section.

Un des mérites de l'invention est de combiner des mailles jetées selon une armure indémaillable, avec des fils de faible titre (dtex), en particulier un second fil élastique de faible titre (dtex), pour obtenir un panneau tricoté ayant des performances égales en terme d'effet sculptant que les panneaux tricotés de l'état de la technique tout en ayant une plus grande élasticité, une nervosité équivalente voir supérieure, et améliorant ainsi le confort.One of the merits of the invention is to combine knitted stitches in a knit armor, with low-titre yarns (dtex), in particular a second low-titre elastic yarn (dtex), to obtain a knitted panel having equal performances. in terms of sculpting effect than the knitted panels of the state of the art while having greater elasticity, an equivalent or superior nervousness, and thus improving comfort.

Les armures indémaillables ont en effet pour avantage de bloquer le second fil élastique à intervalles réguliers ce qui permet d'améliorer sa nervosité malgré son faible titre, et donc sa faible section.The armor leachable indeed has the advantage of blocking the second elastic wire at regular intervals which improves its nervousness despite its weak title, and therefore its small section.

Avantageusement, ledit au moins un panneau textile selon l'invention (notamment avant teinture) a une masse surfacique inférieure ou égale à 150 g/m2, de préférence inférieure ou égale à 100 g/m2, et encore de préférence inférieure ou égale à 80 g/m2.Advantageously, said at least one textile panel according to the invention (especially before dyeing) has a basis weight less than or equal to 150 g / m 2 , preferably less than or equal to 100 g / m 2 , and even more preferably less than or equal to at 80 g / m 2 .

Si le panneau textile est teint, la teinture n'augmente la masse surfacique (g/m2) du panneau textile élastique que d'environ 10% à 20%.If the textile panel is dyed, the dyeing increases the basis weight (g / m 2 ) of the elastic textile panel by only about 10% to 20%.

De préférence, le panneau textile selon l'invention comprend une proportion en poids de fil(s) élastique(s) par rapport à sa masse surfacique totale inférieure ou égale à 50%, encore de préférence inférieure ou égale à 40%, particulièrement inférieure ou égale à 35%, plus particulièrement inférieure ou égale à 30%, notamment inférieure ou égale à 25%.Preferably, the textile panel according to the invention comprises a proportion by weight of yarn (s) elastic (s) relative to its total basis weight less than or equal to 50%, still preferably less than or equal to 40%, particularly lower or equal to 35%, more particularly less than or equal to 30%, in particular less than or equal to 25%.

L'article d'habillement sculptant et gainant selon l'invention peut être une culotte, une gaine, un panty, un body, un soutien-gorge, une combinaison ou un tee-shirt comprenant des parties antérieure(s) et/ou postérieure(s), notamment opposée(s), et agencée(s) en sorte de recouvrir au porté respectivement un ou des zones antérieure(s) et/ou postérieure(s) du tronc et/ou des cuisses. De préférence, lesdites partie(s) antérieure(s) et/ou postérieure(s) comprennent chacune au moins un panneau textile élastique selon l'invention.The article of clothing sculpting and sheathing according to the invention may be a panty, a sheath, a panty, a body, a bra, a combination or a T-shirt comprising anterior and / or posterior parts (S), in particular opposed (s), and arranged (s) so as to cover worn respectively one or more areas (s) and / or posterior (s) of the trunk and / or thighs. Preferably, said part (s) front (s) and / or posterior (s) each comprise at least one elastic textile panel according to the invention.

On entend par article d'habillement sculptant et gainant selon l'invention, un article d'habillement moulant une ou des zones du corps qu'il recouvre afin de lisser et redessiner les courbes desdites zones du corps, et éventuellement apporter un aspect fonctionnel, en particulier compressif.By article of clothing sculpting and sheathing according to the invention is meant an article of clothing molding one or more areas of the body which it covers in order to smooth and redraw the curves of said zones of the body, and possibly to bring a functional aspect, in particular compressive.

L'article d'habillement selon l'invention peut comprendre au moins une partie antérieure et au moins une partie postérieure, chacune desdites parties comprenant au moins un panneau textile élastique selon l'invention. Lesdites parties antérieure et postérieure peuvent être agencées en sorte de recouvrir au moins 60%, par exemple 75% de la circonférence de la zone du corps à lisser et à sculpter, en particulier s'agissant d'une culotte, d'une gaine, d'un panty, d'un body, d'une combinaison ou d'un tee-shirt.The article of clothing according to the invention may comprise at least an anterior part and at least a posterior part, each of said parts comprising at least one elastic textile panel according to the invention. Said anterior and posterior parts may be arranged so as to cover at least 60%, for example 75% of the circumference of the zone of the body to be smoothed and carved, in particular as regards a panty, a sheath, a panty, a body, a jumpsuit or a T-shirt.

On entend par panneau textile tricoté selon une armure indémaillable, tout panneau textile comprenant des mailles jetées qui ne peuvent être détricotées sur une même rangée de mailles. A l'opposé, un panneau textile démaillable comprend indifféremment des mailles cueillies ou des mailles jetées qui peuvent être détricotées dans le sens chaine et/ou dans le sens trame.The term knitted textile panel according to a coat of armor, any textile panel comprising stitches which can not be unraveled on the same row of stitches. In contrast, a demaillable textile panel comprises indifferently picked stitches or stitches which can be unraveled in the warp and / or in the weft direction.

La définition ci-après d'un panneau textile tricoté selon une armure indémaillable est donnée à titre d'exemple préféré mais n'est pas limitative des panneaux tricotés indémaillables selon l'invention. Ainsi, un panneau textile tricoté selon une armure indémaillable comprend des mailles jetées qui sont produites par des aiguilles alimentées individuellement par un fil distinct dans le sens longitudinal (également qualifié de sens chaine ou de colonnes de mailles) du panneau tricoté. Chaque aiguille du métier à tricoter reçoit un fil et chaque fil produit sa maille alternativement. Chaque rangée décale les fils de telle sorte que chacun d'entre eux alimente une aiguille autre que celle qu'il alimentait à la rangée précédente pour obtenir des colonnes de mailles entrelacées entre elles, et complètement indémaillables.The following definition of a textile panel knitted in a wearable armor is given by way of preferred example but is not limited to the knit leathers according to the invention. Thus, a textile panel knitted in a tearproof weave comprises stitches which are produced by needles individually fed by a separate yarn in the longitudinal direction (also referred to as warp or stitch) of the knitted panel. Each needle of the knitting machine receives a yarn and each yarn produces its mesh alternately. Each row shifts the wires so that each of them feeds a needle other than the one he fed in the previous row to obtain interlaced columns of stitches, and completely unmountable.

On entend par colonnes de mailles du panneau textile élastique, le sens chaine de tricotage dudit panneau. A l'opposé, on entend par rangées de mailles, le sens trame de tricotage dudit panneau, lequel est perpendiculaire au sens chaine défini ci-dessus.The term "mesh columns" of the elastic textile panel means the knitting chain direction of said panel. In contrast, by rows of stitches is meant the knitting frame direction of said panel, which is perpendicular to the warp direction defined above.

Ledit au moins un panneau textile selon l'invention peut être tricoté sur l'un des métiers à tricoter suivants : Rashel, Chaine, Simplex ou Trameur, de préférence un métier Simplex ou un métier Trameur (qui par définition sont des métiers à tricoter rectilignes).Said at least one textile panel according to the invention can be knitted on one of the following knitting machines: Rashel, Chaine, Simplex or Trameur, preferably a Simplex loom or a loom Tram (which by definition are straight knitting machines) ).

On entend par double fontures d'aiguilles d'un métier à tricoter, les deux barres d'aiguilles de ce métier. En particulier, le métier Simplex comprend par définition deux barres à aiguilles ou fontures tandis que le métier Trameur ne comprend qu'une barre à aiguilles.By double needles needle of a knitting machine is meant the two needle bars of this trade. In particular, the Simplex loom includes by definition two needle bars or needle bars while the loom includes only one needle bar.

Le premier fil selon l'invention est de préférence un fil monofilamentaire (ou à un seul filament) ou multifilamentaire mais avec un nombre de filaments réduit, de préférence inférieur ou égal à 20, notamment inférieur ou égal à 5.The first yarn according to the invention is preferably a monofilament (or single filament) or multifilament yarn but with a reduced number of filaments, preferably less than or equal to 20, in particular less than or equal to 5.

On entend par panneau textile élastique, tout panneau textile ayant un allongement sous une force de 14Newtons appliquée à la vitesse de 200 mètre/min, dans le sens chaine et/ou le sens trame, supérieur ou égal à 70%, de préférence supérieur ou égal à 100%. Cette valeur peut être mesurée sur le panneau textile élastique nu ou après teinture.By elastic textile panel is meant any textile panel having an elongation under a force of 14Newtons applied at a speed of 200 meters / min, in the warp and / or weft direction, greater than or equal to 70%, preferably greater than or equal to 70%. equal to 100%. This value can be measured on the bare elastic textile panel or after dyeing.

La caractéristique selon laquelle lesdits premier et second fils forment des mailles tricots s'étendant sur au moins deux colonnes de mailles permet avantageusement d'apporter davantage d'élasticité et de conformabilité audit panneau textile que si les mailles s'étendaient sur une colonne de mailles, ce qui correspondrait à des mailles chainettes qui bloquent l'élasticité.The characteristic according to which said first and second yarns form knitted stitches extending over at least two columns of stitches advantageously makes it possible to bring more elasticity and conformability to said textile panel if the stitches were spread over a column of stitches. , which would correspond to chain stitches that block the elasticity.

Le premier fil et le second fil sont donc tricotés sur deux barres à passettes différentes, i.e une barre à passettes par fil.The first yarn and the second yarn are therefore knitted on two different guide bars, i.e a wire guide bar.

La caractéristique selon laquelle le panneau textile est tricoté sur un métier à tricoter comprenant deux fontures d'aiguilles confère au panneau textile selon l'invention des faces envers et endroit différentes reliées par intermittence par des mailles ouvertes et/ou fermées. Lesdites mailles forment alors en quelque sorte des points de liaison entre la face envers et la face endroit dudit panneau au niveau desquels le coulissement du premier fil et/ou du second fil est possible ce qui favorise la souplesse du panneau textile élastique et donc le confort du porteur de l'article d'habillement.The characteristic according to which the textile panel is knitted on a knitting machine comprising two needle beds confers on the textile panel according to the invention different faces and places connected intermittently by open and / or closed meshes. Said meshes then form somehow points of connection between the back face and the face of said panel at which the sliding of the first wire and / or the second wire is possible which promotes the flexibility of the elastic textile panel and therefore the comfort of the wearer of the article of clothing.

Avantageusement, l'insertion d'un troisième fil qui est élastique en trame, en plus du second fil élastique, permet de conférer une déformabilité et une souplesse très importantes au panneau textile tout en ajustant l'effet sculptant et gainant dudit panneau.Advantageously, the insertion of a third yarn which is elastic in weft, in addition to the second elastic yarn, makes it possible to impart considerable deformability and flexibility to the textile panel while adjusting the sculpting and sheathing effect of said panel.

La combinaison des caractéristiques définies ci-dessus, en particulier soit avec un métier comprenant deux fontures d'aiguilles ou un métier Trameur, permet d'obtenir un panneau textile à mailles jetées ayant une élasticité dans le sens chaine équivalente à l'élasticité dans le sens trame.The combination of the characteristics defined above, in particular with either a loom comprising two needle needle beds or a loom, provides a textile panel having a knit fabric having elasticity in the warp direction equivalent to the elasticity in the fabric. frame direction.

Dans l'état de la technique, en particulier lorsque des métiers à tricoter chaine simple fonture sont utilisés, les panneaux textiles présentent certes une élasticité dans le sens trame mais qui est très nettement inférieure à celle obtenue dans le sens chaine.In the state of the art, in particular when simple chain needle knitting machines are used, the textile panels certainly have an elasticity in the weft direction but which is very much lower than that obtained in the warp direction.

De préférence, le premier fil et/ou le second fil forme(nt) des mailles tricots s'étendant sur au moins trois colonnes de mailles, de préférence sur au moins quatre colonnes de mailles.Preferably, the first yarn and / or the second yarn form knit stitches extending over at least three columns of stitches, preferably on at least four stitch columns.

Plus le nombre de colonnes de mailles est important, plus le panneau textile aurait de l'allongement dans la direction des rangées de mailles.The more the number of mesh columns is important, the more the textile panel would have elongation in the direction of the rows of stitches.

Néanmoins, le nombre de colonnes de mailles sur lesquelles s'étend le second fil ne doit pas être trop important afin que le panneau textile ait une bonne nervosité et des propriétés sculptantes.However, the number of mesh columns on which the second wire extends should not be too important so that the textile panel has a good nervousness and sculpting properties.

Dans une variante, le second fil élastique est nu.In a variant, the second elastic thread is naked.

On entend par fil élastique nu, un fil ne comprenant pas de fil de couverture.By bare elastic wire is meant a wire that does not include a cover wire.

Avantageusement, le second fil élastique est transparent ou laisse passer les rayons lumineux de sorte que le panneau textile selon l'invention présente une certaine transparence ce qui améliore l'esthétique et la respirabilité dudit panneau. Cette disposition a également pour avantage que seule l'armure de tricotage permet de maitriser la nervosité du second fil élastique, ce qui confère davantage de souplesse audit panneau textile. En effet, lorsque les fils de couverture sont disposés autour d'un fil d'âme élastique, ces fils bloquent le fil d'âme lors de son allongement.Advantageously, the second elastic thread is transparent or allows light rays to pass so that the textile panel according to the invention has a certain transparency which improves the aesthetics and breathability of said panel. This arrangement also has the advantage that only the knitting armor can control the nervousness of the second elastic thread, which gives more flexibility to said textile panel. Indeed, when the cover son are arranged around an elastic core wire, these son block the core wire during its elongation.

Dans une variante, le premier fil, et éventuellement le second fil, forment des mailles fermées s'étendant sur au moins trois colonnes de mailles, de préférence sur au moins quatre colonnes de mailles, et encore de préférence sur au moins cinq colonnes de mailles.In a variant, the first yarn, and optionally the second yarn, form closed meshes extending over at least three columns of stitches, preferably on at least four stitched stitches, and even more preferably on at least five stitched stitches. .

Dans une variante, le premier fil, et éventuellement le second fil, forme(nt) des mailles ouvertes disposés entre des mailles fermées, lesdites mailles fermées et ouvertes s'étendant sur au moins trois colonnes de mailles, de préférence forme(n) au moins une maille ouverte pour deux mailles fermées, lesdites mailles ouverte(s) et fermées s'étendant sur au moins trois colonnes de mailles.In a variant, the first yarn, and possibly the second yarn, form (s) open meshes arranged between closed meshes, said closed and open stitches extending over at least three columns of stitches, preferably form (n) at minus one open mesh for two closed meshes, said open and closed meshes extending over at least three columns of meshes.

Le panneau textile est par exemple tricoté sur un métier simplex.The textile panel is for example knitted on a simplex loom.

Le panneau textile selon l'invention présente ainsi avantageusement, des faces envers et endroit différentes reliées par intermittence par lesdites mailles ouvertes et/ou fermées. Lesdites mailles ouvertes et/ou fermées forment en quelque sorte des points de liaison entre la face envers et la face endroit dudit panneau au niveau desquels le coulissement du premier fil et/ou du second fil est possible ce qui favorise la souplesse du panneau textile élastique et donc le confort du porteur de l'article d'habillement. Les mailles fermées, à l'opposé des mailles ouvertes, bloquent les fils qui passent à leur niveau, ce qui favorise la nervosité et la conformabilité du panneau textile.The textile panel according to the invention thus advantageously has different faces and locations connected intermittently by said open and / or closed meshes. Said open and / or closed meshes form, as it were, points of connection between the face back and the face of said panel at which the sliding of the first wire and / or the second wire is possible which promotes the flexibility of the elastic textile panel and therefore the comfort of the wearer of the article of clothing. The closed meshes, opposite the open meshes, block the threads that pass at their level, which promotes the nervousness and conformability of the textile panel.

De préférence, les deux barres à passettes recevant respectivement le premier fil et le second fil sont enfilées à plein.Preferably, the two guide bars receiving respectively the first wire and the second wire are threaded to full.

Dans une variante, ledit au moins un panneau textile élastique comprend un troisième fil élastique inséré en trame nu.In a variant, said at least one elastic textile panel comprises a third elastic thread inserted in a naked frame.

Dans une variante, le troisième fil élastique a un titre inférieur ou égal à 70 dtex.In a variant, the third elastic thread has a titre of less than or equal to 70 dtex.

De préférence, le panneau textile est tricoté sur un métier à tricoter Trameur.Preferably, the textile panel is knitted on a knitting machine.

L'insertion d'un troisième fil qui est élastique, en plus du second fil élastique, permet de conférer une déformabilité et une souplesse très importante au panneau textile tout ajustant l'effet sculptant et gainant dudit panneau.The insertion of a third yarn which is elastic, in addition to the second elastic yarn, makes it possible to impart considerable deformability and flexibility to the textile panel while adjusting the sculpting and sheathing effect of said panel.

On entend par fil élastique dans le cadre de la présente invention, tout fil ayant un allongement à rupture supérieur ou égal à 100%, de préférence supérieur ou égal à 200%, encore de préférence supérieur ou égal à 300%, tout particulièrement supérieur ou égal à 400%.The term "elastic yarn" in the context of the present invention is understood to mean any yarn having an elongation at break of greater than or equal to 100%, preferably greater than or equal to 200%, more preferably greater than or equal to 300%, and especially greater than or equal to 300%. equal to 400%.

Ces valeurs peuvent être déterminées par exemple à l'aide de la norme NF EN ISO 2062 de janvier 2010.These values can be determined for example using the NF EN ISO 2062 standard of January 2010.

De préférence, le second fil élastique, et éventuellement le troisième fil élastique, a un titre inférieur ou égal à 50 dtex, encore de préférence inférieur ou égal à 30 dtex, encore de préférence inférieur ou égal à 20 dtex, et encore de préférence inférieur ou égal à 15 dtex.Preferably, the second elastic thread, and optionally the third elastic thread, has a titre of less than or equal to 50 dtex, more preferably less than or equal to 30 dtex, even more preferably less than or equal to 20 dtex, and even more preferably lower or equal to 15 dtex.

Le second fil élastique, et éventuellement le troisième fil élastique, peut être en élasthanne, c'est-à-dire à base de polyuréthane, par exemples tels que ceux commercialisés sous la marque Dorlastan®, Glospan®, Linel®, Creora® ou encore Lycra®. Le second fil élastique, éventuellement le troisième fil élastique, peut être également en latex, c'est-à-dire à base de gomme naturelle ou synthétique, tel que par exemple l'élastodiène, ou dans tout autre matériau équivalent connu de l'état de la technique.The second elastic yarn, and optionally the third elastic yarn, may be made of elastane, that is to say based on polyurethane, by examples such as those marketed under the trademark Dorlastan®, Glospan®, Linel®, Creora® or Lycra®. The second elastic yarn, possibly the third elastic yarn, may also be of latex, that is to say based on natural or synthetic gum, such as for example elastodiene, or in any other equivalent material known from the art. state of the art.

Les titres (dtex) indiqués dans le présent texte peuvent être mesurés à l'aide de la norme NF EN ISO 2060 de juin 1995.The titles (dtex) indicated in this text can be measured using the standard NF EN ISO 2060 of June 1995.

Dans une variante, le troisième fil est inséré en trame toutes les rangées de mailles ou toutes les unes sur deux ou une sur trois rangées de mailles dans le panneau textile.In a variant, the third yarn is inserted in weft all the rows of stitches or all of the two or one of three rows of stitches in the textile panel.

Dans une variante, le second fil élastique s'étend sur un nombre de colonnes de mailles p supérieur au moins d'une colonne de mailles au nombre de colonnes de mailles n sur lesquelles s'étend le premier fil, les nombre n et p étant des entiers supérieurs ou égaux à 2.In a variant, the second elastic yarn extends over a number of columns of meshes p greater than at least one column of stitches to the number of columns of meshes n over which the first yarn extends, the numbers n and p being integers greater than or equal to 2.

Cette disposition donne de la souplesse et donc de la conformabilité au panneau textile élastique selon l'invention.This arrangement gives flexibility and therefore conformability to the elastic textile panel according to the invention.

Dans une variante, le premier fil a un titre (dtex) inférieur ou égal à 25 dtex, encore de préférence inférieur ou égal à 20 dtex, et comprend un nombre de filaments inférieur ou égal à 10, de préférence inférieur ou égal à 5.In a variant, the first yarn has a titer (dtex) of less than or equal to 25 dtex, more preferably less than or equal to 20 dtex, and comprises a number of filaments of less than or equal to 10, preferably less than or equal to 5.

Dans une sous-variante, le premier fil est un fil synthétique.In a sub-variant, the first thread is a synthetic thread.

La combinaison d'un faible titre (dtex) avec un nombre de filaments réduit permet de conférer de l'élasticité.The combination of a low titre (dtex) with a reduced number of filaments makes it possible to confer elasticity.

Dans une variante, le panneau textile élastique selon l'invention a une jauge supérieure ou égale à 20, de préférence supérieure ou égale à 25, encore de préférence supérieure ou égale à 28.In a variant, the elastic textile panel according to the invention has a gauge greater than or equal to 20, preferably greater than or equal to 25, more preferably greater than or equal to 28.

On entend par jauge selon l'invention, le nombre de colonnes de mailles par pouce (soit 2,54 cm).The gauge according to the invention means the number of columns of mesh per inch (or 2.54 cm).

Dans une variante, le premier fil est en polyamide 6 ou 6-6.In a variant, the first thread is made of polyamide 6 or 6-6.

Le premier fil pourrait être également en polyéthylène téréphtalate, en polypropylène ou encore dans une matière cellulosique, telle que le coton, la viscose ou le bambou par exemple.The first wire could also be polyethylene terephthalate, polypropylene or in a cellulosic material, such as cotton, viscose or bamboo, for example.

Dans une variante, la partie antérieure comprend deux panneaux textiles superposés et/ou la partie postérieure comprend deux panneaux textiles superposés, lesdits deux panneaux textiles superposés étant solidaires selon leurs périphéries.In a variant, the front part comprises two superimposed textile panels and / or the rear part comprises two superimposed textile panels, said two superposed textile panels being integral along their peripheries.

Les panneaux textiles sont solidarisés dans leurs périphéries par exemple par couture ou tout autre moyen équivalent connu de l'état de la technique.The textile panels are secured in their peripheries for example by sewing or any other equivalent means known from the state of the art.

Cette disposition améliore le confort en évitant de rigidifier la partie antérieure et/ou la partie antérieure.This arrangement improves comfort by avoiding stiffening the front part and / or the front part.

La présente invention a pour objet selon un second aspect un procédé de fabrication d'un article d'habillement sculptant tel que défini selon l'une quelconque des variantes de réalisation décrites ci-dessus, ledit article d'habillement comprenant une partie antérieure et/ou une partie postérieure comprenant au moins un panneau textile élastique tricoté à mailles jetées selon une armure indémaillable. Avantageusement, ledit procédé comprend une étape de tricotage dudit panneau textile sur un métier Simplex comprenant deux fontures d'aiguilles à partir au moins d'un premier fil et d'un second fil, ledit premier fil ayant un titre inférieur ou égal à 40 dtex, ledit second fil est élastique et a un titre inférieur ou égal à 70 dtex, lesdits premier et second fils forment des mailles tricots s'étendant sur au moins deux colonnes de mailles et sont tricotés sur deux barres à passettes différentes en sorte d'obtenir un panneau textile présentant des faces envers et endroit reliées par intermittence par des mailles tricots ouvertes et/ou fermées.The subject of the present invention is, according to a second aspect, a method of manufacturing a sculpting clothing article as defined according to any one of the embodiments described above, said article of clothing comprising a front part and / or or a posterior portion comprising at least one elastic knitted fabric panel with knit stitches in a wearable armor. Advantageously, said method comprises a step of knitting said textile panel on a Simplex loom comprising two needle beds from at least a first yarn and a second yarn, said first yarn having a titre of less than or equal to 40 dtex said second yarn is elastic and has a titre of less than or equal to 70 dtex, said first and second yarns form knit stitches extending over at least two stitching columns and are knitted on two different guide bars so as to obtain a textile panel having faces facing and place intermittently connected by knit meshes open and / or closed.

La présente invention a pour objet selon un troisième aspect un procédé de fabrication d'un article d'habillement sculptant tel que défini selon l'une quelconque des variantes de réalisation décrites ci-dessus, ledit article d'habillement comprenant une partie antérieure et/ou une partie postérieure comprenant au moins un panneau textile élastique tricoté à mailles jetées selon une armure indémaillable. Avantageusement, ledit procédé comprend une étape de tricotage dudit panneau textile sur un métier Trameur à partir au moins d'un premier fil, d'un second fil et d'un troisième fil, ledit premier fil ayant un titre inférieur ou égal à 40 dtex, ledit second fil est élastique et a un titre inférieur ou égal à 70 dtex, lesdits premier et second fils forment des mailles tricots s'étendant sur au moins deux colonnes de mailles et sont tricotés sur deux barres à passettes différentes, et ledit troisième fil est élastique et inséré en trame en sorte que ledit troisième fil élastique soit disposé dans le panneau textile de manière sensiblement parallèle aux rangées de mailles.The subject of the present invention is, according to a third aspect, a method of manufacturing a sculpting clothing article as defined according to any one of the embodiments described above, said article of clothing comprising an anterior portion and / or a posterior portion comprising at least one elastic knitted fabric panel with knit stitches in a wearable armor. Advantageously, said method comprises a step of knitting said textile panel on a loom from at least a first yarn, a second yarn and a third yarn, said first yarn having a titre of less than or equal to 40 dtex said second yarn is elastic and has a titre of less than or equal to 70 dtex, said first and second yarns form knit stitches extending over at least two stitching columns and are knitted on two different guide bars, and said third yarn is elastic and inserted in a frame so that said third elastic thread is disposed in the textile panel substantially parallel to the rows of stitches.

Brève description des dessinsBrief description of the drawings

La présente invention sera mieux comprise à la lecture des exemples de réalisation suivants cités à titre non limitatif et illustrés par les figures ci-après, annexées à la présente et dans lesquelles :

  • La figure 1 est une représentation schématique vue de face d'un premier exemple d'article d'habillement selon l'invention ;
  • La figure 2 est une représentation schématique vue de face d'une variante du premier exemple d'article représenté à la figure 1 ;
  • La figure 3 est une représentation schématique selon le plan de coupe III-III représenté à la figure 2 ;
  • La figure 4 est une représentation schématique de l'armure de tricotage des panneaux textiles élastiques selon l'invention utilisés dans la confection des articles d'habillement représentés aux figures 1 et 2 ;
  • La figure 5 est une représentation schématique et vue de face d'un second exemple d'article d'habillement selon l'invention ;
  • La figure 6 est une représentation schématique de l'armure de tricotage de panneaux textiles élastiques selon l'invention utilisés dans la confection de l'article d'habillement représenté à la figure 5 ;
  • La figure 7 est une représentation schématique et en perspective du premier exemple d'article d'habillement selon l'invention superposé avec un article d'habillement de l'état de la technique, lesdits articles étant destinés au même taillant.
The present invention will be better understood on reading the following exemplary embodiments given by way of non-limiting example and illustrated by the figures below, appended hereto and in which:
  • The figure 1 is a schematic front view of a first example of an article of clothing according to the invention;
  • The figure 2 is a schematic front view of a variant of the first example of an article shown in FIG. figure 1 ;
  • The figure 3 is a schematic representation along the sectional plane III-III shown in FIG. figure 2 ;
  • The figure 4 is a schematic representation of the knitting armor of the elastic textile panels according to the invention used in the manufacture of the articles of clothing represented in FIGS. Figures 1 and 2 ;
  • The figure 5 is a schematic representation and a front view of a second example of an article of clothing according to the invention;
  • The figure 6 is a schematic representation of the knitting weave of elastic textile panels according to the invention used in the manufacture of the article of clothing represented in FIG. figure 5 ;
  • The figure 7 is a schematic and perspective representation of the first example of an article of clothing according to the invention superimposed with an article of clothing of the state of the art, said articles being intended for the same cutting.

Description détaillée de l'inventionDetailed description of the invention

L'article d'habillement 1 représenté à la figure 1 comprend une partie antérieure 2 et une partie postérieure 3 opposées et agencées en sorte de recouvrir en fonctionnement les zones antérieure et postérieure du corps de l'usager correspondantes. L'article d'habillement 1 est une culotte ayant un effet sculptant et un effet lissant des zones antérieure et postérieure du corps qu'elle recouvre. L'article d'habillement 1 comprend une bande élastique de maintien 4 sur lesdites zones antérieure et postérieure du tronc de l'usager. La partie antérieure 2 comprend un panneau textile élastique 5 selon l'invention, de même la partie postérieure 3 comprend un panneau textile élastique 6 selon l'invention.The article of clothing 1 represented in figure 1 comprises an anterior portion 2 and a posterior portion 3 opposite and arranged so as to cover in operation the anterior and posterior areas of the body of the corresponding user. The article of clothing 1 is a panty having a sculpting effect and a smoothing effect of the anterior and posterior areas of the body that it covers. The article of clothing 1 comprises a holding elastic band 4 on said anterior and posterior areas of the trunk of the user. The front part 2 comprises an elastic textile panel 5 according to the invention, likewise the posterior part 3 comprises an elastic textile panel 6 according to the invention.

La figure 2 représente un article d'habillement 7 qui diffère de l'article d'habillement 1 représenté à la figure 1 en ce que la partie antérieure 8 comprend deux panneaux textiles élastiques 9, 10 selon l'invention superposés. De même, la partie postérieure 11 comprend deux panneaux textiles élastiques selon l'invention superposés 12,13. Les panneaux textiles élastiques 9 et 10 d'une part et les panneaux textiles élastiques 12 et 13 d'autre part sont solidarisées dans leurs zones périphériques communes 14 et 15 par des coutures 16 et 17. Tel que cela est visible à la figure 3 , les panneaux textiles 12 et 13 formant la partie antérieure 11 et les panneaux textiles 9 et 10 formant la partie postérieure 8 ne sont solidaires que dans les zones périphériques 14 et 15 ce qui améliore la conformabilité de l'article d'habillement 7. La disposition de deux panneaux textiles élastiques 9,10 et 12,13 superposés permet d'améliorer l'effet sculptant et l'effet lissant de l'article d'habillement 7 comparativement à l'article d'habillement 1. The figure 2 represents an article of clothing 7 which differs from the article of clothing 1 shown in figure 1 in that the front part 8 comprises two elastic textile panels 9, 10 according to the invention superimposed. Similarly, the posterior portion 11 comprises two elastic textile panels according to the invention superimposed 12,13. The elastic textile panels 9 and 10 on the one hand and the elastic textile panels 12 and 13 on the other hand are secured in their common peripheral zones 14 and 15 by seams 16 and 17. As can be seen in FIG. figure 3 , the textile panels 12 and 13 forming the anterior portion 11 and the textile panels 9 and 10 forming the rear portion 8 are integral only in the peripheral areas 14 and 15 which improves the conformability of the article of clothing 7. The provision of two elastic textile panels 9,10 and 12,13 superimposed improves the sculpting effect and the smoothing effect of the article of clothing 7 compared to the article of clothing 1.

L'armure de tricotage 18 représenté à la figure 4 correspond à l'armure de tricotage des panneaux textiles 5,6,9,10,12 et 13. The knitting armor 18 shown in FIG. figure 4 corresponds to the knitting armor of textile panels 5,6,9,10,12 and 13.

Lesdits panneaux textiles 5,6,9,10,12 et 13 sont des tricots à mailles jetées selon une armure indémaillable, par exemple tricotés sur un métier à tricoter simplex, qui implicitement comprend deux fontures d'aiguilles, également désignées dans le présent par deux barres à aiguilles.Said textile panels 5, 6, 9, 10, 12 and 13 are knitted knitwear in a knit weave, for example knitted on a simplex knitting machine, which implicitly comprises two needle beds, also referred to herein as two needle bars.

Lesdits panneaux textiles 5,6,9,10,12 et 13 sont tricotés avec un premier fil 19 ayant un titre inférieur ou égal à 40 dtex et un second fil élastique 20 ayant un titre inférieur ou égal 70 dtex. Lesdits premier 19 et second 20 fils forment des mailles tricots s'étendant sur au moins deux colonnes de mailles 21. Le second fil élastique 20 est nu, c'est-à-dire qu'il n'est pas recouvert de fil de couverture, disposé par exemple par guipage. Dans cet exemple précis, le premier fil 19 et le second fil 20 forment des mailles fermées 22 s'étendant respectivement sur cinq colonnes de mailles 21 et sur quatre colonnes de mailles 21. De plus, le premier fil 19 et le second fil 20 forment des mailles ouvertes 23 disposées entre des mailles fermées 22, lesdites mailles fermées 22 et ouvertes 23 s'étendant sur au moins trois colonnes de mailles 21. Dans cet exemple précis, le premier fil 19 et le second fil 20 forment au moins une maille ouverte 23 pour deux mailles fermées 22, lesdites mailles ouvertes 23 et fermées 22 s'étendant sur au moins trois colonnes de mailles 21. Le premier 19 et le second 20 fils sont enfilés par exemple à plein, i.e sur toutes les aiguilles des deux barres à passettes les supportant, une barre à passettes par fil. La jauge est de préférence supérieure ou égale à 25, encore de préférence supérieure ou égale à 28. Le second fil 20 a par exemple un titre inférieur ou égal à 30 dtex, notamment inférieur ou égal à 15 dtex. Le premier fil 19 est un fil synthétique à un seul filament par exemple, ayant un titre inférieur ou égal à 25 dtex, notamment inférieur ou égal à 20 dtex. Dans cet exemple, les panneaux textiles non teints 5,6,9,10,12 et 13 ont une masse surfacique inférieure ou égal à 70 g/m2, à +/- 10% près. Les allongements obtenus sous une force de 14N et une vitesse de traction de 200 mètre/min dans le sens chaine et le sens trame mesurés sur les panneaux textiles 5,6,9,10,12 et 13 après teinture sont supérieurs à 100%. En particulier, lorsque les panneaux textiles 5,6,9,10,12 et 13 comprennent 75% en poids dudit premier fil 19 et 25% en poids dudit second fil 20, l'allongement à rupture dans le sens chaine est de l'ordre de 205% à +/-10% et l'allongement à rupture dans le sens trame est de l'ordre de 265% à +/-10%. On obtient donc avantageusement des allongements à rupture dans les sens chaine et trame sensiblement du même ordre.Said textile panels 5, 6, 9, 10, 12 and 13 are knitted with a first yarn 19 having a titer of less than or equal to 40 dtex and a second elastic yarn 20 having a titer of less than or equal to 70 dtex. Said first 19 and second 20 yarns form knitted stitches extending over at least two columns of stitches 21. The second elastic yarn 20 is bare, that is to say that it is not covered with a covering thread. , arranged for example by wrapping. In this specific example, the first wire 19 and the second wire 20 form closed meshes 22 extending respectively over five columns of mesh 21 and four columns of mesh 21. In addition, the first wire 19 and the second wire 20 form open meshes 23 arranged between closed meshes 22, said closed meshes 22 and open 23 extending over at least three columns of stitches 21. In this specific example, the first thread 19 and the second thread 20 form at least one open stitch 23 for two closed meshes 22, said open meshes 23 and closed 22 extending over at least three columns of mesh 21. The first 19 and the second son 20 are threaded for example full, ie on all the needles of the two bars to guards supporting them, a wire guide bar. The gauge is preferably greater than or equal to 25, preferably greater than or equal to 28. The second wire 20 has for example a title less than or equal to 30 dtex, especially less than or equal to 15 dtex. The first thread 19 is a single filament synthetic thread, for example, having a titre of less than or equal to 25 dtex, especially less than or equal to 20 dtex. In this example, the undyed textile panels 5 , 6 , 9 , 10, 12 and 13 have a basis weight of less than or equal to 70 g / m 2 , within +/- 10%. The elongations obtained under a force of 14N and a tensile speed of 200 meters / min in the warp and weft directions measured on the textile panels 5, 6, 9, 10, 12 and 13 after dyeing are greater than 100%. In particular, when the textile panels 5, 6, 9, 10, 12 and 13 comprise 75% by weight of said first yarn 19 and 25% by weight of said second yarn 20, the elongation at break in the warp direction is from 205% to +/- 10% and the elongation in the weft direction is of the order of 265% to +/- 10%. Advantageously, therefore, elongations at break in the warp and weft directions of substantially the same order are obtained.

L'article d'habillement 24 représenté à la figure 5 comprend une partie antérieure 25 et une partie postérieur 26. La partie postérieure 26 comprend un panneau textile 27. La partie antérieure 25 comprend un panneau textile élastique 28. La partie antérieure 25 comprend également deux panneaux textiles élastiques 29 et 30 superposés en forme de X sur le panneau textile élastique 28. Ces panneaux textiles élastiques 29 et 30 selon l'invention apportent un renfort supplémentaire au niveau de la zone abdominale de l'article d'habillement 24 et sont identiques aux panneaux 5,6,9,10,12, et 13. The article of clothing 24 shown in figure 5 comprises an anterior portion 25 and a posterior portion 26. The posterior portion 26 comprises a textile panel 27. The anterior portion 25 comprises an elastic textile panel 28. The anterior portion 25 also comprises two elastic textile panels 29 and 30 superimposed X-shaped on the elastic textile panel 28. These elastic textile panels 29 and 30 according to the invention provide additional reinforcement at the abdominal area of the article of clothing 24 and are identical to the panels 5,6,9,10,12 , and 13.

La figure 6 représente l'amure de tricotage 31 des panneaux textiles élastiques 27 et 28. Un premier fil 32 et un second fil élastique 33 forment des mailles tricots fermées 34 s'étendant respectivement sur trois colonnes de mailles 35 et deux colonnes de mailles 35. Les panneaux textiles 27 et 28 comprennent également un troisième fil élastique 36 inséré en trame, dans cet exemple sur toutes les rangées de mailles. Le troisième fil élastique 36 est disposé selon une direction sensiblement parallèle aux rangées de mailles des panneaux textiles élastiques 27 et 28. Le premier fil 32 et le second fil 33 sont enfilés par exemple à plein, i.e sur toutes les aiguilles des deux barres à passettes les supportant, une barre à passettes par fil. La jauge est de préférence supérieure ou égale à 25, encore de préférence supérieure ou égale à 28. Le second fil 33 et le troisième fil 36 sont de préférence nus, i.e qu'ils ne comprennent pas de fils de couverture. Le second fil 33 et le troisième fil 36, tous deux élastiques, ont un titre inférieur ou égal à 20 dtex, de préférence inférieur ou égal à 15 dtex. Le premier fil 32 est identique au premier fil 19. Dans cet exemple, le panneau textile non teint 28 a une masse surfacique inférieure ou égal à 80 g/m2, à +/- 10% près. Les allongements obtenus sous une force de 14N et une vitesse de traction de 200 mètre/min dans le sens chaine et le sens trame mesurés sur le panneau textile 28 après teinture sont supérieurs à 100%, de préférence supérieurs à 120%.The figure 6 represents the knitting tack 31 of the elastic textile panels 27 and 28. A first thread 32 and a second elastic thread 33 form closed knit meshes 34 extending respectively over three columns of stitches 35 and two columns of stitches 35. textiles 27 and 28 also comprise a third elastic thread 36 inserted in frame, in this example on all rows of stitches. The third elastic thread 36 is arranged in a direction substantially parallel to the rows of stitches of the elastic textile panels 27 and 28. The first thread 32 and the second thread 33 are threaded for example fully, ie on all the hands of the two guide bars. supporting them, a wire guide bar. The gauge is preferably greater than or equal to 25, more preferably greater than or equal to 28. The second wire 33 and the third wire 36 are preferably bare, ie they do not include cover wires. The second yarn 33 and the third yarn 36, both elastic, have a titer of less than or equal to 20 dtex, preferably less than or equal to 15 dtex. The first wire 32 is identical to the first wire 19. In this example, the undyed textile panel 28 has a basis weight less than or equal to 80 g / m 2 , within +/- 10%. The elongations obtained under a force of 14 N and a tensile speed of 200 meter / min in the warp and weft direction measured on the textile panel 28 after dyeing are greater than 100%, preferably greater than 120%.

En particulier, lorsque les panneaux textiles 27 et 28 comprennent 80% en poids dudit premier fil 32 et 20% en poids dudit second fil 33 et du troisième fil 36, l'allongement à rupture dans le sens chaine est de l'ordre de 275% à +/-10% et l'allongement à rupture dans le sens trame est de l'ordre de 275% à +/-10%. On obtient donc avantageusement des allongements à rupture dans les sens chaine et trame sensiblement du même ordre.In particular, when the textile panels 27 and 28 comprise 80% by weight of said first yarn 32 and 20% by weight of said second yarn 33 and the third yarn 36, the elongation at break in the warp direction is of the order of 275 % to +/- 10% and the elongation in the weft direction is of the order of 275% to +/- 10%. Advantageously, therefore, elongations at break in the warp and weft directions of substantially the same order are obtained.

La figure 7 représente l'article d'habillement 1 représenté à la figure 1 superposé avec un article d'habillement 37 de l'état de la technique, lesdits articles 1 et 37 étant destinés à une taille 40-42. On observe ainsi que grâce à la conformabilité et à l'élasticité de l'article d'habillement 1 selon l'invention la quantité de panneaux textiles élastiques nécessaires pour confectionner un article d'un taillant déterminé est nettement moindre que celle nécessaire dans l'état de la technique pour un même taillant. Il a ainsi été observé une réduction de plus 30% du patronage nécessaire pour confectionner un article d'habillement selon l'invention comparativement à un article de l'état de la technique, ce qui représente une économie très importante. En outre, les performances en terme d'effet sculptant et d'effet lissant des articles d'habillement 1 et 24 sont similaires, voir supérieurs pour un confort nettement amélioré comparativement aux articles d'habillement sculptant de l'état de la technique.The figure 7 represents the article of clothing 1 represented in figure 1 superimposed with an article of clothing 37 of the state of the art, said articles 1 and 37 being intended for a size 40-42. It can thus be seen that, thanks to the conformability and elasticity of the article of clothing 1 according to the invention, the quantity of elastic textile panels necessary for making an article of a given cutter is considerably less than that required in the invention. state of the art for the same cutting. It has thus been observed a reduction of more than 30% of the patronage necessary to make an article of clothing according to the invention compared to an article of the prior art, which represents a very important saving. In addition, the performances in terms of the sculpting effect and the smoothing effect of the articles of clothing 1 and 24 are similar, or even higher, for a clearly improved comfort compared to the articles of sculpting clothing of the state of the art.

Le tableau 1 ci-après indique les mesures moyennes obtenues sur un panel de 10 testeuses ayant testé les articles d'habillement 1 et 24 comparativement à deux articles de l'état de la technique différents. Tableau 1 Mensurations initales (cm) Mensurations port de l'article d'habillement 1 (cm) Mensurations port de l'article d'habillement 24 (cm) Mensurations port d'un premier article d'habillement de l'état de la technique (cm) Mensurations port d'un second article d'habillement de l'état de la technique (cm) Tour de taille 71 cm 68.5 69 67.5 69 Tour mesuré au niveau du nombril 89 cm 87 87 86 88.5 Tour de hanches 97.5 cm 93 94.5 97 95.5 Table 1 below shows the average measurements obtained on a panel of 10 testers who tested the articles of clothing 1 and 24 compared to two different articles of the state of the art. Table <b> 1 </ b> Initial measurements (cm) Measurements wearing the article of clothing 1 (cm) Measurements wearing the article of clothing 24 (cm) Measurements wearing a first article of clothing of the state of the art (cm) Measurements wearing a second article of clothing of the state of the art (cm) Waist 71 cm 68.5 69 67.5 69 Round measured at the navel 89 cm 87 87 86 88.5 Hipster 97.5 cm 93 94.5 97 95.5

On observe ainsi que les mesures effectuées sur des articles d'habillement selon l'invention sont similaires, voire améliorées concernant le tour de hanches, comparativement aux mesures effectuées sur des articles d'habillement de l'état de la technique. En outre, les testeuses font part d'un confort nettement amélioré, les articles d'habillement 1 et 24 selon l'invention sont moins compressifs et donc moins étouffant que les articles d'habillement de l'état de la technique.It can thus be seen that the measurements made on clothing articles according to the invention are similar, or even improved, with respect to the hip circumference, as compared to measurements made on articles of clothing of the state of the art. In addition, the testers report a much improved comfort, clothing articles 1 and 24 according to the invention are less compressive and therefore less stuffy than the articles of clothing of the state of the art.

Claims (13)

Article d'habillement (1,7,24) sculptant comprenant une partie antérieure (2,8,26) et/ou une partie postérieure (3,11,25) comprenant au moins un panneau textile élastique tricoté à mailles jetées selon une armure indémaillable (5,6,9,10,12,13,27,28,29,30) à partir au moins d'un premier fil (19,32) et d'un second fil (20,33), ledit premier fil (19,22) ayant un titre inférieur ou égal à 40 dtex, ledit second fil (20,33) est élastique et a un titre inférieur ou égal à 70 dtex, lesdits premier (19,32) et second (20,33) fils forment des mailles tricots (22,23,34,35) s'étendant sur au moins deux colonnes de mailles (21,35) et sont tricotés sur deux barres à passettes différentes, caractérisé en ce que ledit panneau textile est tricoté sur un métier à tricoter comportant deux fontures d'aiguilles en sorte que ledit panneau textile présente des faces envers et endroit reliées par intermittence par des mailles tricots ouvertes et/ou fermées, ou ledit panneau textile est tricoté sur un métier Trameur avec un troisième fil élastique (36) inséré en trame en sorte que ledit troisième fil élastique (36) soit disposé dans le panneau textile de manière sensiblement parallèle aux rangées de mailles.A sculpting article of clothing (1,7,24) comprising an anterior part (2,8,26) and / or a posterior part (3,11,25) comprising at least one knit elastic knitted textile panel with an armor (5,6,9,10,12,13,27,28,29,30) from at least one first thread (19,32) and a second thread (20,33), said first thread wire (19,22) having a titre of less than or equal to 40 dtex, said second wire (20,33) is elastic and has a titre of less than or equal to 70 dtex, said first (19,32) and second (20,33 ) yarns form knitted stitches (22, 23, 34, 35) extending over at least two stitches (21, 35) and knitted on two different guide bars, characterized in that said textile panel is knitted on a knitting machine having two needle beds, so that said textile panel has faces facing and place intermittently connected by open and / or closed knit meshes, or said textile panel; is knitted on a loom Roller with a third elastic thread (36) inserted in weft so that said third elastic thread (36) is disposed in the textile panel substantially parallel to the rows of stitches. Article d'habillement (1,7,24) selon la revendication 1, caractérisé en ce que le second fil élastique (20,33) est nu.An article of clothing (1,7,24) according to claim 1, characterized in that the second elastic thread (20,33) is bare. Article d'habillement (1,7,24) selon l'une ou l'autre des revendications 1 et 2, caractérisé en ce que le premier fil (19,32), et éventuellement le second fil (20,33), forment des mailles fermées (22,34) s'étendant sur au moins trois colonnes de mailles (21,35), de préférence sur au moins quatre colonnes de mailles (21,35), et encore de préférence sur au moins cinq colonnes de mailles (21,35).Apparel article (1,7,24) according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that the first thread (19,32) and possibly the second thread (20,33) form closed meshes (22,34) extending over at least three columns of stitches (21,35), preferably at least four stitches (21,35), and preferably at least five stitches (21,35). Article d'habillement (1,7) selon l'une quelconque des revendications 1 à 3, caractérisé en ce que le premier fil (19), et éventuellement le second fil (20), forme(nt) des mailles ouvertes (23) disposées entre des mailles fermées (22), lesdites mailles fermées (22) et ouvertes (23) s'étendant sur au moins trois colonnes de mailles (21), de préférence forme(nt) au moins une maille ouverte (23) pour deux mailles fermées (22), lesdites mailles ouverte(s) (23) et fermées (23) s'étendant sur au moins trois colonnes de mailles (21).Apparel article (1,7) according to any one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that the first wire (19), and possibly the second wire (20), form (s) open meshes (23) arranged between closed meshes (22), said closed (22) and open meshes (23) extending over at least three columns of stitches (21), preferably form (s) at least one open stitch (23) for two closed meshes (22), said open meshes (23) and closed (23) extending over at least three columns of meshes (21). Article d'habillement (24) selon l'une quelconque des revendications 1 à 4, caractérisé en ce que ledit troisième fil élastique (36) inséré en trame est nu.Apparel article (24) according to any one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that said third elastic thread (36) inserted in the frame is naked. Article d'habillement (24) selon l'une quelconque des revendications 1 à 5, caractérisé en ce que le troisième fil (36) a un titre inférieur ou égal à 70 dtex.An article of apparel (24) according to any one of claims 1 to 5, characterized in that the third yarn (36) has a titre of less than or equal to 70 dtex. Article d'habillement (24) selon l'une quelconque des revendications 1 à 6, caractérisé que le troisième fil (36) est inséré en trame toutes les rangées de mailles ou toutes les une sur deux ou une sur trois rangées de mailles dans le panneau textile (27,28).An article of apparel (24) according to any one of claims 1 to 6, characterized in that the third yarn (36) is inserted in a pattern every stitch row or every second or third row of stitches in the stitch. textile panel (27,28). Article d'habillement (1,7,24) selon l'une quelconque des revendications 1 à 7, caractérisé en ce que le second fil élastique (20,33) s'étend sur un nombre de colonnes de mailles p (21,35) supérieure au moins d'une colonne de mailles au nombre de colonnes de mailles n (21,35) sur lesquelles s'étend le premier fil (19,32), les nombre n et p étant des entiers supérieurs ou égaux à 2.Apparel article (1,7,24) according to any one of claims 1 to 7, characterized in that the second elastic thread (20,33) extends over a number of columns of stitches (21,35). ) greater than at least one column of the number of columns of mesh n (21.35) over which the first wire (19.32) extends, the numbers n and p being integers greater than or equal to 2. Article d'habillement (1,7,24) selon l'un quelconque des revendications 1 à 8, caractérisé en ce que le premier fil (19,32) a un titre inférieur à 25dtex et ce qu'il comprend un nombre de filaments inférieur ou égal à 10, de préférence inférieur ou égal à 5.An article of apparel (1,7,24) according to any one of claims 1 to 8, characterized in that the first yarn (19,32) has a titre of less than 25dtex and that it comprises a number of filaments less than or equal to 10, preferably less than or equal to 5. Article d'habillement (1,7,24) selon l'une quelconque des revendications 1 à 9, caractérisé en ce que ledit au moins un panneau textile (5,6,9,10,12,13,27,28,29,30) a une jauge supérieure ou égale à 20, de préférence supérieure ou égale à 25, encore de préférence supérieure ou égale à 28.An article of apparel (1,7,24) according to any one of claims 1 to 9, characterized in that said at least one textile panel (5,6,9,10,12,13,27,28,29 30) has a gauge greater than or equal to 20, preferably greater than or equal to 25, more preferably greater than or equal to 28. Article d'habillement (7) selon l'une quelconque des revendications 1 à 10, caractérisé en ce que la partie antérieure (8) comprend deux panneaux textiles (9,10) superposés et/ou la partie postérieure (11) comprend deux panneaux textiles superposés (12,13), lesdits panneaux textiles (9,10,12,13) étant solidaires selon leurs périphéries (14,15).Apparel article (7) according to one of claims 1 to 10, characterized in that the front part (8) comprises two superposed textile panels (9, 10) and / or the rear part (11) comprises two panels superposed textiles (12,13), said textile panels (9,10,12,13) being integral along their peripheries (14,15). Procédé de fabrication d'un article d'habillement selon l'une quelconque des revendications 1 à 11, ledit article d'habillement sculptant comprenant une partie antérieure (2,8,26) et/ou une partie postérieure (3,11,25) comprenant au moins un panneau textile élastique tricoté à mailles jetées selon une armure indémaillable (5,6,9,10,12,13,27,28,29,30) caractérisé en ce qu'il comprend une étape de tricotage dudit panneau textile sur un métier Simplex comprenant deux fontures d'aiguilles à partir au moins d'un premier fil (19,32) et d'un second fil (20,33), ledit premier fil (19,22) ayant un titre inférieur ou égal à 40 dtex, ledit second fil (20,33) est élastique et a un titre inférieur ou égal à 70 dtex, lesdits premier (19,32) et second (20,33) fils forment des mailles tricots (22,23,34,35) s'étendant sur au moins deux colonnes de mailles (21,35) et sont tricotés sur deux barres à passettes différentes en sorte d'obtenir un panneau textile présentant des faces envers et endroit reliées par intermittence par des mailles tricots ouvertes et/ou fermées.A method of manufacturing an article of clothing according to any one of claims 1 to 11, said article of sculpting clothing comprising an anterior portion (2,8,26) and / or a posterior portion (3,11,25 ) comprising at least one elastic knitted textile panel with knit stitches in a weave (5,6,9,10,12,13,27,28,29,30) characterized in that it comprises a step of knitting said panel textile on a Simplex loom comprising two needles of needle from at least a first yarn (19,32) and a second yarn (20,33), said first yarn (19,22) having a lower title or equal to 40 dtex, said second yarn (20,33) is elastic and has a titre of less than or equal to 70 dtex, said first (19,32) and second (20,33) yarns form knitted stitches (22,23, 34,35) extending over at least two columns of stitches (21,35) and are knitted on two different guide bars so as to obtain a textile panel having facings The backing and location intermittently connected by open and / or closed knit stitches. Procédé de fabrication d'un article d'habillement selon l'une quelconque des revendications 1 à 11, ledit article d'habillement sculptant comprenant une partie antérieure (2,8,26) et/ou une partie postérieure (3,11,25) comprenant au moins un panneau textile élastique tricoté à mailles jetées selon une armure indémaillable (5,6,9,10,12,13,27,28,29,30) caractérisé en ce qu'il comprend une étape de tricotage dudit panneau textile sur un métier trameur à partir au moins d'un premier fil (19,32), d'un second fil (20,33) et d'un troisième fil (36), ledit premier fil (19,22) ayant un titre inférieur ou égal à 40 dtex, ledit second fil (20,33) est élastique et a un titre inférieur ou égal à 70 dtex, lesdits premier (19,32) et second (20,33) fils forment des mailles tricots (22,23,34,35) s'étendant sur au moins deux colonnes de mailles (21,35) et sont tricotés sur deux barres à passettes différentes, et ledit troisième fil est élastique (36) et inséré en trame en sorte que ledit troisième fil élastique (36) soit disposé dans le panneau textile de manière sensiblement parallèle aux rangées de mailles.A method of manufacturing an article of clothing according to any one of claims 1 to 11, said article of clothing sculptor comprising an anterior portion (2,8,26) and / or a posterior portion (3,11,25) comprising at least one elastic knitted fabric panel with knit stitches in a knit-proof armor (5,6,9,10,12 , 13,27,28,29,30) characterized in that it comprises a step of knitting said textile panel on a framer's craft from at least a first thread (19,32), a second thread ( 20,33) and a third wire (36), said first wire (19,22) having a title less than or equal to 40 dtex, said second wire (20,33) is elastic and has a title less than or equal to 70 dtex, said first (19,32) and second (20,33) yarns form knitted stitches (22,23,34,35) extending over at least two stitch columns (21,35) and are knitted on two different guide bars, and said third wire is elastic (36) and inserted in a frame so that said third elastic wire (36) is disposed in the textile panel substantially parallel to the row es of mail.
EP14199444.2A 2013-12-19 2014-12-19 Shaping garment of clothing Active EP2885988B1 (en)

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FR1363050A FR3015189B1 (en) 2013-12-19 2013-12-19 CLOTHING ARTICLE SCULPTANT

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Citations (5)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US4817400A (en) 1983-03-16 1989-04-04 Bayer Aktiengesellschaft Bielastic, warp-knit fabric and its production
JP2005320643A (en) 2004-05-06 2005-11-17 Wacoal Corp Bottom garment
EP2017380A1 (en) 2007-07-20 2009-01-21 Carvico S.p.A. Procedure for manufacturing ladderproof fabrics
US7555922B1 (en) 2005-12-28 2009-07-07 EFA Holdings, LLC Elastic fabric
US20120297840A1 (en) 2011-05-24 2012-11-29 Solid Ally International Limited Warp knitted fabric and method of manufacturing the same

Patent Citations (5)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US4817400A (en) 1983-03-16 1989-04-04 Bayer Aktiengesellschaft Bielastic, warp-knit fabric and its production
JP2005320643A (en) 2004-05-06 2005-11-17 Wacoal Corp Bottom garment
US7555922B1 (en) 2005-12-28 2009-07-07 EFA Holdings, LLC Elastic fabric
EP2017380A1 (en) 2007-07-20 2009-01-21 Carvico S.p.A. Procedure for manufacturing ladderproof fabrics
US20120297840A1 (en) 2011-05-24 2012-11-29 Solid Ally International Limited Warp knitted fabric and method of manufacturing the same

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