EP1622580A2

EP1622580A2 - Dyeing composition for human keratinous fibers comprising a fluorescent dye and a particular sequestering agent, method and use

Info

Publication number: EP1622580A2
Application number: EP04758927A
Authority: EP
Inventors: Grégory Plos; Luc Gourlaouen
Original assignee: LOreal SA
Current assignee: LOreal SA
Priority date: 2003-04-01
Filing date: 2004-04-01
Publication date: 2006-02-08
Also published as: BRPI0405648A; WO2004091556A3; MXPA05009082A; WO2004091556A2; JP2006522077A; FR2853231B1; FR2853231A1

Abstract

The invention concerns a composition comprising at least one fluorescent dye and at least one particular sequestering agent, methods using said composition and device. The invention also concerns the use of a composition comprising at least one fluorescent dye and at least one particular sequestering agent for dyeing with lightening effect human keratinous fibers and more particularly artificially pigmented or dyed hair and dark skin.

Description

COLORING COMPOSITION FOR HUMAN KERATINIC MATERIALS

COMPRISING A FLUORESCENT DYE AND A SEQUESTRING AGENT

PARTICULARLY, PROCESS AND USE

The invention relates to a composition comprising at least one fluorescent dye and at least one particular sequestering agent, as well as the methods and device using these compositions. It likewise relates to the use of a composition comprising at least one fluorescent dye and at least one particular sequestering agent, for coloring with a lightening effect human keratin materials and more particularly keratin fibers such as pigmented or artificially colored hair , as well as dark skin.

It is common for people with dark skin to want to lighten the skin and for this purpose use cosmetic or dermatological compositions containing bleaching agents.

The substances most used as a bleaching agent are hydroquinone and its derivatives, kojic acid and its derivatives, azelaic acid, arbutin and its derivatives, alone or in combination with other active agents. However, these agents are not without drawbacks. In particular, it is necessary to use them for a prolonged period and in high amounts, in order to obtain a whitening effect on the skin. An immediate effect is not observed on the application of compositions comprising them.

In addition, hydroquinone and its derivatives are used in an effective amount to see a whitening effect appear. In particular, hydroquinone is known for its cytotoxicity towards the melanocyte.

Furthermore, kojic acid and its derivatives have the disadvantage of being costly and of not being able, for this reason, to be used in large quantities in products with wide commercial distribution.

There therefore remains the need for cosmetic compositions making it possible to obtain a clearer, uniform, homogeneous complexion, of natural appearance, these compositions having a satisfactory transparency after application to the skin.

In the hair field, there are mainly two main types of hair coloring.

The first is semi-permanent coloring or direct coloring which uses dyes capable of bringing to the natural coloring of the hair, a more or less marked modification resistant to several shampoos. These dyes are called direct dyes and can be used in two different ways. The colorings can be carried out by direct application to the keratin fibers of the composition containing the direct dye (s) or by application of a mixture produced extemporaneously with a composition containing the direct dye (s) with a composition containing an oxidizing bleaching agent which is preferably hydrogen peroxide. We then speak of lightening direct coloring. The second is permanent coloring or oxidation coloring. This is carried out with precursors of so-called "oxidation" dyes which are colorless or weakly colored compounds which, when mixed with oxidizing products, at the time of use, can give rise to a process of oxidative condensation. colored and coloring compounds. It is often necessary to combine with the oxidation bases and couplers, one or more direct dyes in order to neutralize or reduce the shades too much in red, orange or golden reflections, or on the contrary to accentuate these red, orange or golden reflections .

Among the direct dyes available, the benzene nitro direct dyes are not sufficiently powerful, the indoamines, the quinone dyes as well as the natural dyes have a low affinity for keratin fibers and therefore lead to dyes which are not sufficiently resistant with respect to the different treatments that the fibers can undergo, and in particular with respect to shampoos.

In addition, there is a need to obtain a lightening effect on human keratin fibers. This lightening is conventionally obtained by a process of bleaching the melanins of the hair by an oxidizing system, generally consisting of hydrogen peroxide associated or not with persalts. This bleaching system has the disadvantage of degrading keratin fibers and altering their cosmetic properties.

The object of the present invention is to solve the problems mentioned above and in particular to provide a composition which has good dye affinity for keratin materials and in particular keratin fibers, with good toughness property with respect to external agents, and in particular vis-à-vis shampoos, and which also make it possible to obtain a lightening without alteration of the treated material, more particularly the keratin fiber.

It was therefore unexpectedly and surprisingly found that the use of fluorescent dyes, in particular those in the range of oranges, in the presence of particular sequestering agents, made it possible to achieve these objectives.

The present invention therefore has for first object a composition, comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable medium, at least one fluorescent dye soluble in said medium and at least one complexing agent chosen from hydroxycarboxylic acids, polycarboxylic acids, and their monovalent or divalent salts of alkali metal, alkaline earth metal, transition metal, organic amine or ammonium, alone or in combination mixtures; the composition not comprising, as fluorescent agent, 2- [2- (4- dialkylamino) phenyl ethenyl] -1 alkyl pyridinium in which the alkyl radical of the pyridinium nucleus represents a methyl, ethyl radical, that of the benzene nucleus represents a methyl radical and in which the counter ion is a halide.

A second subject of the invention relates to a process for coloring with a lightening effect human keratin fibers, in which the following steps are carried out: a) a composition according to the invention is applied to said fibers, for a time sufficient to develop the desired coloring and lightening, b) optionally rinsing the fibers, c) optionally washing with shampoo and rinsing the fibers, d) drying or allowing the fibers to dry.

Another subject of the invention relates to the use of a composition comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable medium, at least one fluorescent dye soluble in said medium and at least one complexing agent chosen from hydroxycarboxylic acids, polycarboxylic acids, and their monovalent or divalent salts of alkali metal, alkaline earth metal, transition metal, organic amine or ammonium, alone or in mixtures, to color with a lightening effect human keratin materials.

A device with several compartments for coloring and lightening keratin fibers, comprising at least one compartment containing the composition according to the invention, and at least one other compartment containing a composition containing at least one oxidizing agent, constitutes a final object of the invention.

The compositions of the invention allow in particular an increased fluorescence and lightening effect greater than that obtained with the fluorescent dye used alone.

There is also a better tenacity of the result vis-à-vis washes or shampoos.

However, other characteristics and advantages of the present invention will appear more clearly on reading the description and the examples which follow.

Unless otherwise indicated, the limits of the ranges of values which are given in the description are included in these ranges.

As indicated previously, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one fluorescent dye and at least one particular sequestering agent. By fluorescent dye is meant within the meaning of the present invention a dye which is a molecule which colors by itself, and therefore absorbs light from the visible spectrum and possibly from the ultraviolet (wavelengths ranging from 360 to 760 nanometers ) but which, unlike a conventional dye, transforms the absorbed energy into fluorescent light of longer wavelength emitted in the visible part of the spectrum.

A fluorescent dye according to the invention is to be distinguished from an optical lightening agent. Optical lightening agents generally called optical brighteners, or "brighteners", or "fluorescent brighteners", or "fluorescent brightening agents", or "fluorescent whitening agents", or "whiteners", or even "fluorescent whiteners" in English terminology , are transparent colorless compounds, which do not color, because they do not absorb in visible light, but only in Ultra Violets (wavelengths ranging from 200 to 400 nanometers), and transform the absorbed energy into light longer wavelength fluorescent emitted in the visible part of the spectrum; the color impression is then only generated by purely fluorescent light predominantly blue (wavelengths ranging from 400 to 500 nanometers).

Finally, the fluorescent dye used in the composition is soluble in the medium of the composition. Note that the fluorescent dye is different in this respect from a fluorescent pigment which is not soluble in the medium of the composition.

More particularly, the fluorescent dye used in the context of the present invention, optionally neutralized, is soluble in the medium of the composition at least 0.001 g / l, more particularly at least 0.5 g / l, preferably at least 1 g / l and according to an even more preferred embodiment, at least 5 g / l at the temperature between 15 and 25 ° C.

Furthermore, according to a characteristic of the invention, the composition does not comprise, as fluorescent dye, a 2- [2- (4-dialkylamino) phenyl ethenyl] -1 alkyl pyridinium in which the alkyl radical of the pyridinium nucleus represents a methyl, ethyl radical, that of the benzene nucleus represents a methyl radical and in which the counter ion is a halide.

In accordance with an even more particular embodiment of the invention, the composition does not comprise, as fluorescent dye, a compound chosen from azo, azomethine or methine monocyclic heterocyclic fluorescent dyes.

The fluorescent dyes preferably used according to the present invention are dyes in the range of oranges. 2004/091556

Preferably, the fluorescent dyes of the invention lead to a maximum of reflectance lying in the wavelength range from 500 to 650 nanometers, and preferably in the wavelength range from 550 to 620 nanometers .

Some of the fluorescent dyes according to the present invention are compounds known in themselves.

As examples of fluorescent dyes that can be used, mention may be made of fluorescent dyes belonging to the following families: naphthalimides; cationic or non-cationic coumarins; xanthenodiquinolizines (such as in particular sulforhodamines); azaxanthenes; naphtholactams; azlactones; oxazines; thiazines; dioxazines; polycationic fluorescent dyes of azo, azomethine or methine type, alone or in mixtures, preferably from the following families: naphthalimides; cationic or non-cationic coumarins; azaxanthenes; naphtholactams; azlactones; oxazines; thiazines; dioxazines; polycationic fluorescent dyes of the azo, azomethine or methine type, alone or in mixtures.

More particularly, we can cite among them:

- the Brilliant Yellow B6GL marketed by the company SANDOZ and of the following structure:

-The Basic Yellow 2, or Auramine O marketed by the companies PROLABO, ALDRICH or CARLO ERBA and with the following structure:

4,4 'monohydrochloride - (imidocarbonyl) bis (N, N-dimethylaniline) - CAS number 2465- 27-2.

Mention may also be made of the compounds of the following formula: 2004/091556

in which :

R1, R2, identical or different, represent: • a hydrogen atom; "An alkyl radical, linear or branched, comprising 1 to 10 carbon atoms, preferably 1 to 4 carbon atoms, optionally interrupted and / or substituted by at least one heteroatom and / or group comprising at least one heteroatom and / or substituted with at least one halogen atom; »An aryl or arylalkyl radical, the aryl group having 6 carbon atoms and the alkyl radical having 1 to 4 carbon atoms; the aryl radical being optionally substituted by one or more linear or branched alkyl radicals comprising 1 to 4 carbon atoms optionally interrupted and or substituted by at least one heteroatom and / or group comprising at least one heteroatom and / or substituted by at least one atom halogen; o R-) and R2 may optionally be linked so as to form a heterocycle with the nitrogen atom and comprise one or more other heteroatoms, the heterocycle being optionally substituted by at least one linear or branched alkyl radical, preferably comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms and being optionally interrupted and / or substituted by at least one heteroatom and / or group comprising at least one heteroatom and / or substituted by at least one halogen atom; • R1 or R2 can optionally be engaged in a heterocycle comprising the nitrogen atom and one of the carbon atoms of the phenyl group carrying said nitrogen atom; R3, R4, which may or may not be identical, represent a hydrogen atom, an alkyl radical comprising 1 to 4 carbon atoms;

R5, which may or may not be identical, represent a hydrogen atom, a halogen atom, a linear or branched alkyl radical comprising 1 to 4 carbon atoms optionally interrupted by at least one heteroatom; RQ, identical or not, represent a hydrogen atom; a halogen atom; a linear or branched alkyl radical comprising 1 to 4 carbon atoms, optionally substituted and / or interrupted by at least one heteroatom and / or group carrying at least one heteroatom and / or substituted by at least one halogen atom; X represents:

• an alkyl radical, linear or branched comprising 1 to 14 carbon atoms, or alkenyl comprising 2 to 14 carbon atoms, optionally interrupted and / or substituted by at least one heteroatom and / or group comprising at least one heteroatom and / or substituted by at least one halogen atom;

• a heterocyclic radical comprising 5 or 6 members, optionally substituted by at least one linear or branched alkyl radical comprising 1 to 14 carbon atoms, optionally substituted by at least one heteroatom; by at least one aminoalkyl radical, linear or branched, comprising 1 to 4 carbon atoms, optionally substituted by at least one heteroatom; by at least one halogen atom;

• an aromatic or diaromatic radical condensed or not, separated or not by an alkyl radical comprising 1 to 4 carbon atoms, the aryl radical (s) being optionally substituted by at least one halogen atom or by at least one alkyl radical comprising 1 with 10 carbon atoms optionally substituted and / or interrupted by at least one heteroatom and / or group carrying at least one heteroatom; o a dicarbonyl radical;

• group X can carry one or more cationic charges; a being equal to 0 or 1;

Y ^" , which may or may not be identical, representing an organic or mineral anion; n being an integer at least equal to 2 and at most equal to the number of cationic charges present in the fluorescent compound.

Recall that the terms heteroatoms represent an oxygen or nitrogen atom. Among the groups carrying such atoms, there may be mentioned, inter alia, hydroxyl, alkoxy, carbonyl, amino, ammonium, amido (-N-CO-), carboxyl (-0-CO- or -CO-0-) groups.

As regards the alkenyl groups, the latter comprise one or more unsaturated carbon-carbon bonds (-C = C-), and preferably a single carbon-carbon double bond.

In this general formula, the radicals R1 and R2, which may or may not be identical, more particularly represent:

• a hydrogen atom;

• an alkyl radical comprising 1 to 10 carbon atoms, in particular 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably 1 to 4 carbon atoms, optionally interrupted by an oxygen atom or optionally substituted by at least one hydroxyl, amino or ammonium radical , a chlorine or fluorine atom; a benzyl, phenyl radical, optionally substituted by an alkyl or alkoxy radical comprising 1 to 4 carbon atoms, preferably 1 or 2 carbon atoms; with the nitrogen atom, a heterocylic radical of the pyrrolo, pyrrolidino, imidazolino, imidazolo, imidazolium, pyrazolino, pipérazino, morpholino, morpholo, pyrazolo, triazolo type, optionally substituted with at least one linear or branched alkyl radical comprising 1 to 4 carbon atoms optionally interrupted and / or substituted by a nitrogen and / or oxygen atom and / or group carrying a nitrogen and / or oxygen atom.

As regards the aforementioned amino or ammonium radicals, the radicals carried by the nitrogen atom may or may not be identical and more particularly represent a hydrogen atom, a C1-C10 alkyl radical. preferably C1-C4, an arylalkyl radical in which, more especially, the aryl radical comprises 6 carbon atoms and the alkyl radical 1 to 10 carbon atoms, preferably 1 to 4 carbon atoms.

According to an advantageous embodiment of the invention, the radicals R1 and R2, identical or not, represent a hydrogen atom; a linear or branched C-j-Cβ alkyl radical; a C2-C6 alkyl radical substituted by a hydroxyl radical; a C2-Cβ alkyl radical bearing an amino or ammonium group; a C2-C6 chloroalkyl radical; a C2-C6 alkyl radical interrupted by an oxygen atom or group carrying a (for example ester); an aromatic radical such as phenyl, benzyl, 4-methylphenyl; a heterocyclic radical such as the pyrrolo, pyrrolidino, imidazolo, imidazolino, imidazolium, pipérazino, morpholo, morphollino, pyrazolo, triazolo radicals, optionally substituted with at least one Cι-C-6 alkyl or aromatic radical.

Preferably, the radicals Ri and R2, identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom, a linear or branched C -CQ alkyl radical such as methyl, ethyl, n-butyl, n-propyl radicals; 2-hydroxyethyl; an alkyltrimethylammonium or aikyltriethylammonium radical, the alkyl radical being linear in C2-C6; a (di) alkylmethylamino or (di) alkylethylamino radical, the alkyl radical being linear in C2-C6; - CH2CH2CI; - (CH2) n-OCH3 or - (CH2) n-OCH2CH3 with n integer varying from 2 to 6; -CH2CH2-OCOCH3; -CH2CH2COOCH3. Preferably the radicals R1 and R2, identical or not, and preferably identical, represent a methyl radical, an ethyl radical.

The radicals R ^ and R2, identical or different, can also represent a heterocyclic radical of the pyrrolidino, 3-amino pyrrolidino, 3- (dimethyl) amino pyrrolidino, 3- (trimethyl) amino pyrrolidino, 2,5-dimethylpyrrolo, 1H type. -imidazole, 4-methyl piperazino, 4-benzyl piperazino, morpholo, 3,5- (ter-butyl) -1 H-pyrazolo, 1H-pyrazolo, 1H-1, 2,4-triazolo. The radicals Ri and R2, identical or different, can also represent be linked so as to form a heterocycle of formulas (I) and (II) below:

in which R 'represents a hydrogen atom, a C1-C3 alkyl radical, -CH2CH2OH, -CH2CH2OCH3.

In accordance with a more particular embodiment of the invention, R5, which may or may not be identical, represents a hydrogen atom, a fluorine or chlorine atom, a linear or branched alkyl radical comprising 1 to 4 carbon atoms optionally interrupted by an oxygen or nitrogen atom. It is specified that the substituent R5, if it is different from hydrogen, is advantageously in position (s) 3 and / or 5 relative to the carbon of the ring carrying nitrogen substituted by the radicals Ri and R2, and preferably in position 3 relative to this carbon.

Advantageously, the radicals R5, identical or not, represent a hydrogen atom; a linear or branched C1-C4 alkyl radical; -O-R51 with R51 representing a linear C1-C4 alkyl radical; -R52-O-CH3 with R52 representing a linear C2-C3 alkyl radical; -R53 - N (R54) 2 in which R53 represents a linear C2-C3 alkyl radical, R54, identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a methyl radical.

Preferably R5, identical or not, represent hydrogen, methyl, methoxy, and preferably, R5 represents a hydrogen atom.

According to a particular embodiment, the radicals RQ, identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom; a linear or branched C1-C4 alkyl radical; -X with X representing a chlorine, bromine or fluorine atom; -R61-0-R62 ^with c R61 representing a linear C2-C3 alkyl radical and Rβ2 represents the methyl radical; -R63 ^_ N (R64) 2 with Rβ3 representing a linear C2-C3 alkyl radical, Rβ4, identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a methyl radical, -N (R65) 2 in which R65, identical or different , represent a hydrogen atom, a linear C2-C3 alkyl radical; -NHCO RQQ with RQQ representing a C1-C2 alkyl radical, a C1-C2 chloroalkyl radical, a -R67-NH2 or -R67-NH (CH3) or -R67-N (CH3) 2 or -R67-N radical ⁺ (CH3) 3 or -R67-N ⁺ (CH2CH3) 3 with R67 representing a C1-C2 alkyl radical.

It is specified that the substituent RQ, if it is different from hydrogen, is preferably in position 2 and / or 4 with respect to the nitrogen atom of the pyridinium ring, and preferably in position 4 with respect to to this nitrogen atom. More particularly, these radicals R6, which may or may not be identical, represent a hydrogen atom or a methyl or ethyl radical, and preferably, RQ represents a hydrogen atom.

As regards the radicals R3, R4, the latter, identical or not, advantageously represent a hydrogen atom, an alkyl radical comprising 1 to 4 carbon atoms, more especially a methyl radical. Preferably, R3 and R4 each represent a hydrogen atom.

As indicated above, X represents:

• an alkyl radical, linear or branched comprising 1 to 14 carbon atoms, or alkenyl comprising 2 to 14 carbon atoms, optionally interrupted and / or substituted by at least one heteroatom, by at least one group carrying at least one heteroatom and or by at least one halogen atom; • a heterocyclic radical comprising 5 or 6 members, optionally substituted by at least one linear or branched alkyl radical comprising 1 to 14 carbon atoms, by at least one aminoalkyl radical, linear or branched, comprising 1 to 4 carbon atoms, optionally substituted by at least one heteroatom; by at least one halogen atom; o an aromatic or diaromatic radical condensed or not, separated or not by an alkyl radical comprising 1 to 4 carbon atoms, the aryl radical (s) being optionally substituted by at least one halogen atom or by at least one alkyl radical comprising 1 with 10 carbon atoms optionally substituted and / or interrupted by at least one heteroatom and / or group comprising at least one heteroatom;

• a dicarbonyl radical.

In addition, it is indicated that the group X can carry one or more cationic charges.

Thus, X can represent an alkyl radical, linear or branched, comprising 1 to 14 carbon atoms, or alkenyl comprising 2 to 14 carbon atoms, and can be substituted and / or interrupted by one or more oxygen atoms and / or nitrogen, and / or by one or more groups carrying at least one heteroatom, and / or by a fluorine, chlorine atom. Mention may very particularly be made, among groups of this type, of hydroxyl, alkoxy (with in particular a radical R of C1-C4 alkyl type), amino, ammonium, amido, carbonyl, carboxyl (-COO-, -O-CO -) with in particular an alkyloxy type radical.

Note that the nitrogen atom, if present, can be in a quaternized form or not. In this case, the one or two other radicals carried by the quaternized nitrogen atom or not, are identical or not and can be a hydrogen atom, a C1-C4 alkyl radical, preferably methyl.

According to another variant, the group X represents a heterocyclic radical comprising 5 or 6 members, of the imidazolo, pyrazolo, triazino, pyridino type, optionally substituted by at least one linear or branched alkyl radical comprising 1 to 14 carbon atoms, more particularly 1 with 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 4 carbon atoms; with at least one aminoalkyl radical, linear or branched, comprising 1 to 10 carbon atoms, preferably 1 to 4 carbon atoms, optionally substituted by a group comprising at least one heteroatom (preferably a hydroxyl radical), or by a halogen atom. Note that the amino group is preferably linked to the heterocycle.

According to another possibility, the group X represents an aromatic (preferably comprising 6 carbon atoms) or diaromatic radical, condensed or not (notably comprising from 10 to 12 carbon atoms), separated or not by an alkyl radical comprising 1 to 4 carbon atoms, the aryl radical (s) being optionally substituted by at least at least one halogen atom and / or by at least one alkyl radical comprising 1 to 10 carbon atoms, preferably 1 to 4 carbon atoms, optionally interrupted by at least one oxygen and / or nitrogen atom, and / or group comprising at least one heteroatom (such as a carbonyl, carboxyl, amido, amino, ammonium radical).

It should be noted that the aromatic radical, preferably a phenyl radical, is linked to the CR3R4 groups via bonds in positions 1, 2; 1, 3 or 1; 4, preferably in positions 1, 3 and 1.4. If the phenyl radical linked via bonds in positions 1,4 carries one or two substituents, this or these are preferably located in position 1,4 with respect to one of the groups CR3R4. If the phenyl radical linked via bonds in positions 1, 3 carries one or two substituents, this or these are preferably located in position 1 and / or 3 relative to one of the groups CR3R4.

In the case where the radical is diaromatic, it is preferably non-condensed and comprises two phenyl radicals separated or not by a single bond (either a carbon of each of the two rings) or by an alkyl radical, preferably of the CH2 or C type ( CH3) 2- Preferably, the aromatic radicals do not carry a substituent. It should be noted that said diaromatic radical is linked to the CR3R4 groups by means of bonds in positions 4,4 ′.

As examples of suitable X groups, mention may be made in particular of linear or branched alkyl radicals comprising 1 to 13 carbon atoms such as methylene, ethylene, propylene, isopropylene, n-butylene, pentylene, hexylene; the 2- hydroxypropylene, 2-hydroxy n-butylene; C1-C13 alkylene radicals, substituted or interrupted by one or more nitrogen and / or oxygen atoms, and / or groups carrying at least one heteroatom (hyroxyl, amino, ammonium, carbonyl, carboxyl, for example) such than -CH2CH2OCH2CH2-. 1,6-dideoxy-d-mannitol, -CH2N ⁺ (CH3) 2CH2-, -CH2CH2N + (CH3) 2- (CH2) 6N ⁺ (CH3) 2-CH2CH2-, CO-CO-, 3,3- dimethylpentylene, 2-acetoxyethylene, butylene, 2,3,4 tetraol; -CH = CH-; aromatic or diaromatic radicals substituted by one or more alkyl radicals, by one or more groups carrying at least one heteroatom and / or by one or more halogen atoms, such as 1, 4-phenylene, 1, 3-phenylene , 1, 2-phenylene, 2,6-fluorobenzene, 4,4'-biphenylene, 1, 3- (5-methyl benzene), 1, 2-bis (2-methoxy) benzene, bis (4-phenyl) methane, methyl 3,4 benzoate, 1,4-bis (amido methyl) phenyl; heterocyclic radicals such as pyridine, or derivative such as 2,6-bispyridine, imidazole, imidazolium, triazine.

X represents, according to a more particular embodiment of the invention, a linear or branched C1-C13 alkyl radical; -CH2CH (OH) CH2-; -CH2CH (CI) CH2-; -CH2CH2- OCOCH2-; -CH2CH2COOCH2-; -Ra-O- Rb- with Ra representing a linear C2-C6 alkyl radical and Rb represents a linear C1-C2 alkyl radical; - Rc-N (Rd) -Re- with Rc representing a C2-C8 alkyl radical, Rd representing a hydrogen atom, a C1-C2 alkyl radical and Re representing a C1-C6 alkyl radical; - Rf-N ⁺ (Rg) 2-Rh- with Rf representing a linear C2-C9 alkyl radical, Rg, preferably identical, represent a C1-C2 alkyl radical, Rh represents a linear C- alkyl radical | G6; CO-CO-.

X can also represent an imidazole radical, optionally substituted by at least one alkyl radical comprising 1 to 14 carbon atoms, more particularly 1 to 10 carbon atoms, preferably 1 to 4, and for example the divalent radicals of the following formula :

in which Ri and Rj, identical or not, represent a linear Ci-Cβ alkyl radical

X can likewise be chosen from the following divalent radicals derived from triazine

CH ₂ CH ₂

OH

According to another possibility, X can represent the following aromatic divalent radicals:

In the general formula of these fluorescent compounds, Y "represents an organic or inorganic anion. If there are several Y- anions, these may or may not be identical.

Among the anions of mineral origin, there may be mentioned without intending to be limited thereto the anions originating from halogen atoms, such as preferably chlorides, iodides, sulfates or bisulfates, nitrates, phosphates, hydrogenophosphates, dihydrogenophosphates, carbonate, bicarbonates.

Among the anions of organic origin, there may be mentioned the anions originating from the salts of mono- or polycarboxylic acids, sulfonic, sulfuric, saturated or unsaturated, aromatic or not, optionally substituted by at least one hydroxyl, amino or 'halogen. By way of nonlimiting examples, suitable are the acetates, hydroxyactetates, aminoacetates, (tri) chloroacetates, benzoxyactetates, propionates and derivatives carrying a chlorine atom, fumarates, oxalates, acrylates, malonates, succinates, lactates, tartrates, glycollates citrates, benzoates and derivatives carrying a methyl or amino radical, alkyl sulfates, tosylates, benzenesulfonates, toluenesulfonates, etc.

Preferably, the anion (s) Y, which may or may not be identical, are chosen from chlorine, sulfate, methosulfate, ethosulfate.

Finally, the number n, whole, is at least equal to 2 and at most equal to the number of cationic charges present in the fluorescent compound.

Preferably the fluorescent compounds which have just been detailed are symmetrical compounds.

These compounds can be synthesized by reacting in a first step of α-picoline with a reagent comprising two leaving groups which can be chosen from halogen atoms, preferably bromine, optionally chlorine, or groups of the type tolylsulfonyl or methylsulfonyl.

This first step can take place in the presence of a solvent, although it is not compulsory, such as for example dimethylformamide.

The number of moles of α-picoline is generally close to 2 for one mole of reagent comprising the leaving groups.

In addition, the reaction is usually carried out at reflux of the reagent and / or of the solvent if it is present. The product resulting from this first stage is then contacted with a corresponding aldehyde of the following formula:

in which Ri, R2 and RQ have the same meanings as previously indicated. Again, the reaction can be carried out in the presence of an appropriate solvent, preferably at reflux.

It should be noted that the radicals Ri and R2 of the aldehyde may have the meaning indicated in the general formula detailed above. It is also possible to use an aldehyde for which said radicals represent hydrogen atoms and to carry out, in accordance with conventional methods, the substitution of these hydrogen atoms by suitable radicals as described in the general formula once the second step completed.

Reference may in particular be made to syntheses as described in US 4,256,458.

The fluorescent dye (s) present in the composition according to the invention advantageously represent from 0.01 to 20% by weight, more particularly from 0.05 to 10% by weight, and preferably from 0.1 to 5% by weight, of the total weight of the composition.

As mentioned before, the composition also comprises at least one complexing agent chosen from hydroxycarboxylic acids, polycarboxylic acids, and their alkali metal, alkaline earth metal, transition metal, organic amine or ammonium salts, alone or in mixtures.

As examples of monovalent cations, mention may be made of cations of alkali metals, such as sodium, potassium.

Mention may also be made of monovalent cations derived from organic amines, such as primary, secondary or tertiary amines, or also from alkanolamines. Said amines have one or more radicals, identical or not, of alkyl type, linear or branched in C1-C20, optionally comprising a heteroatom such as oxygen. Also suitable are cations from quaternary ammonium, more particularly comprising four radicals, identical or not, corresponding to the definition given above. By way of examples of divalent cations, mention may be made of divalent cations of alkaline earth metals such as calcium, magnesium, of transition metals (metals comprising an incomplete sublayer d), more particularly in the oxidation state. II, like the divalent cation of cobalt, iron, manganese, zinc, copper.

More particularly, the sequestering agents of the hydroxycarboxylic type correspond to the following formula (A): R- (CHOH) ₄ -C0 ₂ X, in which R represents a CH ₂ OH or C0 ₂ X group, and X represents a hydrogen or a monovalent or divalent cation. This formula includes all enantiomers and all diastereoisomers of these compounds.

As for polycarboxylic type sequestering agents, they correspond more particularly to compounds of the following formula (B): RN (Y) (CH (R ') C02X), in which Y represents a hydrogen atom or a CH (R ') Cθ2X; R represents a hydrogen atom or a group (a) -CH (Cθ2X) - (CH2) nC0 ₂ X, (b) - (CH ₂ ) _n OH, (c) -CH (R ") C0 ₂ X, (d) - (CH2) nN (COR ") - CH ₂ C0 ₂ X, (e) - (CH ₂ ) nN (CH2C0 ₂ X) CH2C02X and (f) - (CH2) _n NH-CH (Cθ2X) CH2Cθ2X , in which R 'represents a hydrogen atom or a CH2CO2X group; R "represents a linear or branched C1-C30 or cyclic C3-C30 alkyl group, n is an integer between 1 and 5, X represents a hydrogen atom or a monovalent or divalent cation as defined in the box of formula (A).

According to a particular embodiment, n is equal to 2.

Among the sequestering compounds which can be used, the following are particularly suitable: Formula (A): gluconic acid, mucic acid, (or galactaric acid), glucaric acid, mannaric acid, their salts, their mixtures; Formula (B):

• the compounds comprising four carboxylic acid or salt functions, when R represents a hydrogen atom and R 'represents a group -CH ₂ -C0 ₂ X, or when R represents the group -CH (C0 ₂ X) - (CH ₂ ) ₂ -C0 ₂ X and R 'represents a hydrogen atom;

• compounds comprising three carboxylic acid or salt functions, when R represents the group -CH (CH ₃ ) -C0 ₂ X and R 'represents a hydrogen atom, or when R represents a group - (CH ₂ ) ₂ -N (COR ") - CH ₂ -C0 ₂ X and R 'represents a hydrogen atom. Methylglycine diacetic acid, N-lauroyl-N, N', N'-tri-acetic ethylene ine, l iminodisuccinic acid, N, N-dicarboxymethyl L-glutamic acid, ethylenediamine N, N 'disuccinic acid, their salts, their mixtures, are preferred examples of compounds of formula (B).

It should be noted that by mixing is meant the mixture of several acids, that of several salts of an acid or of several of them, or also that of an acid and one or more of its salts.

Preferably, the polycarboxylic acids used are of formula (B) in which R represents a hydrogen atom or a group chosen from groups (a) to (d) and (f).

The content of sequestering agent advantageously represents 0.0001 to 20% by weight relative to the weight of the composition, more particularly between 0.001 to 10% by weight relative to the weight of the composition, preferably between 0.01 and 5% by weight. weight relative to the weight of the composition.

The cosmetically acceptable medium generally consists of water or a mixture of water and one or more usual organic solvents. Among the suitable solvents, there may be mentioned more particularly, alcohols such as ethyl alcohol, isopropyl alcohol, benzyl alcohol, and phenylethyl alcohol, or glycols or glycol ethers such as, for example, monomethyl, monoethyl and monobutyl ethers of ethylene glycol, propylene glycol or its ethers such as, for example, propylene glycol monomethyl ether, butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol as well as diethylene glycol alkyl ethers such as, for example, monoethyl ether or monobutyl ether also polyols such as glycerol. Polyethylene glycols and polypropylene glycols and mixtures of all these compounds can also be used as solvent.

The usual solvents described above, if present, usually represent

I to 40% by weight, more preferably from 5 to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The pH of the composition according to the invention is generally between 3 and 12 approximately, and preferably between 5 and 11 approximately.

It can be adjusted to the desired value by means of acidifying or basifying agents.

Among the acidifying agents, there may be mentioned, by way of example, mineral or organic acids such as hydrochloric acid, orthophosphoric acid, sulfuric acid, acetic acid.

Among the basifying agents, there may be mentioned, by way of example, ammonia, alkali carbonates, alkanolamines such as mono-, di- and triethanolamines as well as their derivatives, sodium or potassium hydroxides and compounds of formula (C) below:

^R 1 \ / ^R 3

N W N

R ₂ R

² (C) in which W is a propylene residue optionally substituted by a hydroxyl group or a C1-C6 alkyl radical; Ri, R2, R3 and R4, identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom, a C1-C6 alkyl or C1-hydroxyalkyl radical

C6.

The composition in accordance with the invention may also comprise various adjuvants conventionally used, such as anionic, cationic, nonionic, amphoteric, zwitterionic surfactants or their mixtures, hair dyes, polymers, mineral thickening agents, antioxidant agents , penetrating agents, perfumes, buffers, dispersing agents, packaging such as, for example, cations, silicones, film-forming agents, preserving agents, stabilizing agents.

When one or more surfactants are present, preferably of the nonionic, anionic or amphoteric type, their content represents from 0.01 to 30% by weight relative to the weight of the composition.

Of course, those skilled in the art will take care to choose this or these optional additional compounds in such a way that the advantageous properties intrinsically attached to the composition according to the invention are not, or not substantially, altered by the addition (s) considered.

The composition according to the invention can be in various forms, such as in the form of liquids, shampoos, creams, gels, or in any other suitable form.

A particularly preferred form according to the present invention, the composition is in the form of a coloring and lightening shampoo comprising in a cosmetically acceptable aqueous medium.

The composition according to the invention may likewise contain at least one oxidizing agent. The latter can be chosen, for example, from hydrogen peroxide, urea peroxide, alkali metal bromates, persalts such as perborals and persulfates, and enzymes such as peroxidases and oxidoreductases with two or more with four electrons. The use of hydrogen peroxide or enzymes is particularly preferred.

A subject of the invention is also the use, for coloring with a lightening effect of human keratin materials, of a composition comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable medium, at least one fluorescent dye soluble in said medium, and at least one complexing agent chosen. among hydroxycarboxylic acids, polycarboxylic acids, and their monovalent or divalent salts of alkali metal, alkaline earth metal, transition metal, organic amine or ammonium, alone or in mixtures.

In the context of this use, the fluorescent compound can be chosen from fluorescent compounds belonging to the following families: naphthalimides; cationic or non-cationic coumarins; xanthenodiquinolizines (such as in particular sulforhodamines); azaxanthenes; naphtholactams; azlactones; oxazines; thiazines; dioxazines; monocentic or polycationic fluorescent dyes of the azo, azomethine or methine type, alone or in mixtures. As more specific compounds, mention may be made of the compounds of formulas F1, F2 and F3 already detailed above.

It is likewise possible to use the compounds of structure (F4) below:

formula in which R represents a methyl or ethyl radical; R 'represents a methyl radical, X- an anion of the chloride, iodide, sulfate, methosulfate, acetate, perchlorate type. As an example of a compound of this type, mention may be made of Photosensitiving Dye NK-557 sold by the company UBICHEM, for which R represents an ethyl radical, R 'a methyl radical and X- an iodide.

All that has been described previously on the natures and contents of the various additives present in the composition remains valid and will not be repeated in this part.

According to the present invention, the term “human keratin materials” means the skin, the hair, the nails, the eyelashes, and the eyebrows, and more particularly the dark skin and the artificially pigmented or colored hair.

For the purposes of the invention, the term “dark skin” is intended to mean a skin whose luminance L * encrypted in the CIEL system L ^* a ^* b * is less than or equal to 45 and preferably less than or equal to 40, knowing moreover that L * = 0 is equivalent to black and L * = 100 to white. The skin types corresponding to this luminance are African skin, African-American skin, Hispanic-American skin, Indian skin and North African skin. For the purposes of the invention, the term “artificially pigmented or dyed hair” means hair whose pitch is less than or equal to 6 (dark blonde) and preferably less than or equal to 4 (chestnut).

The lightening of the hair is evaluated by the "height of tone" which characterizes the degree or the level of lightening. The notion of "tone" is based on the classification of natural shades, a tone separating each shade from that which follows it or This definition and classification of natural shades are well known to professionals in hairdressing and published in the book "Sciences des treatments capillaires" by Charles ZVIAK 1988, Ed.Masson, pp. 215 and 278. The heights of tone range from 1 (black) to 10 (light blonde), a unit corresponding to a tone; the higher the number, the lighter the shade. Another object of the present invention therefore relates to a dyeing process with lightening effect of human keratin fibers consisting in carrying out the following steps: a) applying to the keratin fibers, for a time sufficient to develop coloring and lightening desired, the composition according to the invention, b) optionally rinsing said fibers, c) optionally washing with shampoo and rinsing said fibers, d) drying or allowing the fibers to dry.

The present invention further relates to a method for coloring with a lightening effect a dark skin in which the composition which has just been described is applied to the skin, then drying or allowing the skin to dry. Preferably, this composition is not used in the presence of an oxidizing agent

All that has been previously described concerning the various constituent elements of the composition remains valid and may be referred to.

In particular, the methods according to the invention are suitable for treating human keratin fibers, and in particular the hair, pigmented or artificially colored, or even dark skin.

More particularly, the fibers which can be advantageously treated by the method according to the invention have a pitch is less than or equal to 6

(dark blonde) and preferably less than or equal to 4 (chestnut). In addition, dark skin capable of being treated in accordance with the invention has a luminance L *, encrypted in the C.I.E.L. L * a * b *, less than or equal to 45 and preferably less than or equal to 40.

According to a first embodiment of the invention, the dyeing process with lightening effect of the fibers is carried out with a composition not comprising an oxidizing agent.

According to a second embodiment of the invention, the dyeing process with lightening effect of the fibers is carried out with a composition comprising an oxidizing agent.

According to a first variant of these coloring methods in accordance with the invention, at least one composition as defined above is applied to the fibers, and in particular the hair, for a time sufficient to develop the desired coloring and lightening, after what is rinsed, optionally washed with shampoo, rinsed again and dried. According to a second variant of these dyeing methods in accordance with the invention, at least one composition as defined above is applied to the fibers, and in particular the hair, without final rinsing.

According to a third variant of the coloring process in accordance with the invention, the coloring process comprises a preliminary step consisting in storing in separate form, on the one hand, a composition according to the invention and, on the other hand, a composition comprising , in a cosmetically acceptable medium, at least one oxidizing agent, then to mix them at the time of use before applying this mixture to the keratin fibers, and in particular the hair, for a time sufficient to develop the desired coloration , after which the fibers are rinsed, optionally washed with shampoo, rinsed again and dried.

The time necessary for the development of the coloration and for obtaining the lightening effect on the fibers, in particular the hair, is approximately 5 to 60 minutes and more particularly approximately 5 to 40 minutes.

The temperature necessary for the development of the coloration and for obtaining the lightening effect is generally between ambient temperature (15 to 25 ° C) and 80 ° C and more particularly between 15 and 40 ° C.

Another object of the invention is a device with several compartments for coloring with lightening effect keratin fibers and in particular hair, comprising at least one compartment containing a composition according to the invention, and at least one other compartment containing a composition comprising at least one oxidizing agent. This device can be equipped with a means making it possible to deliver the desired mixture onto the fibers, such as the devices described in patent FR 2 586 913.

It should be noted that the composition according to the invention, if it is used to treat keratin fibers, such as brown hair for example, makes it possible to achieve the following results:

If we measure the reflectance of the hair when it is irradiated with visible light in the wavelength range from 400 to 700 nanometers, and compare the reflectance curves as a function of the length d wave, hair treated with the composition of the invention and untreated hair, it is found that the reflectance curve corresponding to the treated hair, in a wavelength range from 500 to 700 nanometers, is greater than that corresponding to untreated hair. This means that, in the wavelength range from 500 to 700 nanometers, and preferably from 540 to 700 nanometers, there is at least one range where the curve of reflectance corresponding to the treated hair is greater than the reflectance curve corresponding to the untreated hair. The term "higher" means a difference of at least 0.05% of reflectance, and preferably of at least 0.1%.

It is specified, however, that there may exist in the wavelength range from 500 to 700 nanometers, and preferably from 540 to 700 nanometers, one or more ranges where the reflectance curve corresponding to the fibers treated is either superimposable, or less than the reflectance curve corresponding to the untreated fibers.

Preferably, the wavelength where the difference is maximum between the reflectance curve of the treated hair and that of the untreated hair, is in the wavelength range from 500 to 650 nanometers, and preferably in the wavelength range from 550 to 620 nanometers.

In addition, and preferably, the composition according to the invention is capable of lightening the hair and the skin in a shade which, quantified in the CIEL system L * a * b * has a variable b * greater than or equal to 6, with a ratio b * / absolute value of a *, greater than 1.2 according to the selection test described below. Selection test The composition is applied to brown keratin fibers, more particularly hair, at the rate of 10 grams of composition per 1 gram of brown fibers. The composition is spread out so as to cover all of the fibers. The composition is left to act for 20 minutes at room temperature (20 to 25 ° C). The fibers are then rinsed with water and then washed with a shampoo based on lauryl ether sulfate. They are then dried. The speclrocolorimetric characteristics of the fibers are then measured to determine the coordinates L * a * b *.

In the CIEL system L * a * b *, a * and b * indicate two color axes, a * indicates the green / red color axis (+ a * is red, -a * is green) and b * l 'blue / yellow color axis (+ b * is yellow and -b * is blue); values close to zero for a * and b * correspond to gray shades.

The examples which follow are intended to illustrate the invention without however limiting its scope.

EXAMPLES

Fluorescent compound

93 g of 2-picoline are reacted with 120 g of 1.6 dibromohexane in dimethylformamide at 110 ° C for 5 hours. The precipitated product is recovered and filtered. 109 g of the product obtained above are dissolved in methanol and 82.82 g of p-dimethylaminobenzaldehyde are added twice, in the presence of pyrrolidine. It is then left for 30 minutes. The product is recovered in precipitated form.

Mass spectroscopy analysis: 266.

Elemental analysis: C: 62.43%; H: 6.40%; Br: 23.07%; N: 8.09%. The formula is as follows C36H44N4.2Br.

compositions

Coloring

Each composition is applied to a lock of natural brown hair (tone height 4) with an exposure time of 20 minutes.

The wick is then rinsed and dried with a helmet for 30 minutes.

A clear effect of lightening of the locks is obtained.

Claims

Composition, characterized in that it comprises, in a cosmetically acceptable medium, at least one fluorescent dye soluble in said medium, and at least one complexing agent chosen from hydroxycarboxylic acids, polycarboxylic acids, and their monovalent or divalent metal salts alkaline, alkaline earth, transition metal, organic amine or ammonium, alone or in mixtures; the composition not comprising, as fluorescent agent, 2- [2- (4-dialkylamino) phenyl ethenyl] -1 alkyl pyridinium in which the alkyl radical of the pyridinium nucleus represents a methyl, ethyl radical, that of the benzene nucleus represents a methyl radical and in which the counter ion is a halide.

Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the fluorescent dye leads to a maximum of reflectance lying in the wavelength range from 500 to 650 nanometers, and preferably in the length range wave ranging from 550 to 620 nanometers.

Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the fluorescent dye is chosen from fluorescent compounds belonging to the following families: naphthalimides; cationic or non-cationic coumarins; xanthenodiquinolizines; azaxanthenes; naphtholactams; azlactones; oxazines; thiazines; dioxazines; polycationic fluorescent dyes of the azo, azomethine or methine type, alone or in mixtures.

4. Composition any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the fluorescent compound has the following formula:

in which :

R1, R2, identical or different, represent:

• a hydrogen atom;

• an alkyl radical, linear or branched, comprising 1 to 10 carbon atoms, preferably 1 to 4 carbon atoms, optionally interrupted and / or substituted by at least one heteroatom and / or group comprising at least one heteroatom and or substituted by at least one halogen atom; o an aryl or arylalkyl radical, the aryl group having 6 carbon atoms and the alkyl radical having 1 to 4 carbon atoms; the aryl radical being optionally substituted by one or more linear or branched alkyl radicals comprising 1 to 4 carbon atoms optionally interrupted and / or substituted by at least one heteroatom and / or group comprising at least one heteroatom and / or substituted by at least one halogen atom; o Ri and R2 may optionally be linked so as to form a heterocycle with the nitrogen atom and comprise one or more other heteroatoms, the heterocycle being optionally substituted by at least one linear or branched alkyl radical, preferably comprising 1 having 4 carbon atoms and being optionally interrupted and / or substituted by at least one heteroatom and / or group comprising at least one heteroatom and / or substituted by at least one halogen atom;

• R1 or R2 can optionally be engaged in a heterocycle comprising the nitrogen atom and one of the carbon atoms of the phenyl group carrying said nitrogen atom;

R3, R4, which may or may not be identical, represent a hydrogen atom, an alkyl radical comprising 1 to 4 carbon atoms;

R5, which may or may not be identical, represent a hydrogen atom, a halogen atom, a linear or branched alkyl radical comprising 1 to 4 carbon atoms optionally interrupted by at least one heteroatom;

R6, identical or not, represent a hydrogen atom; a halogen atom; a linear or branched alkyl radical comprising 1 to 4 carbon atoms, optionally substituted and / or interrupted by at least one heteroatom and / or group bearing at least one heteroatom and / or substituted by at least one halogen atom;

X represents: • an alkyl radical, linear or branched comprising 1 to 14 carbon atoms, or alkenyl comprising 2 to 14 carbon atoms, optionally interrupted and / or substituted by at least one heteroatom and / or group comprising at least one heteroatom and / or substituted by at least one halogen atom;

• a heterocyclic radical comprising 5 or 6 members, optionally substituted by at least one linear or branched alkyl radical comprising 1 to 14 carbon atoms, optionally substituted by at least one heteroatom; by at least one aminoalkyl radical, linear or branched, comprising 1 to 4 carbon atoms, optionally substituted by at least one heteroatom; by at least one halogen atom; • an aromatic or diaromatic radical condensed or not, separated or not by an alkyl radical comprising 1 to 4 carbon atoms, the aryl radical (s) being optionally substituted by at least one halogen atom or by at least one alkyl radical comprising 1 with 10 carbon atoms optionally substituted and / or interrupted by at least one heteroatom and / or group carrying at least one heteroatom;

• a dicarbonyl radical;

• group X can carry one or more cationic charges; a being equal to 0 or 1;

5. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the fluorescent dye (s) are present in a weight concentration between 0.01 and 20% by weight, more particularly between 0.05 and 10% by weight , preferably between 0.1 to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

6. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the sequestering agent of hydroxycarboxylic type corresponds to the formula

(A) following: R- (CHOH) ₄ -C0 ₂ X, in which R represents a CH ₂ OH or C0 ₂ X group, and X represents a hydrogen or a monovalent or divalent cation.

7. Composition of the preceding claim, characterized in that the sequestering agent is chosen from gluconic acid, mucic acid, glucaric acid, mannaric acid, their salts, their mixtures.

. Composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 5, characterized in that the sequestering agent of polycarboxylic type corresponds to the following formula (B): RN (Y) (CH (R ') Cθ2X), in which Y represents a hydrogen atom or a CH (R ') Cθ2X group; R represents a hydrogen atom or a group (a)

-CH (C0 ₂ X) - (CH2) nC0 ₂ X, (b) - (CH ₂ ) _n OH, (c) -CH (R ") C0 ₂ X, (d) - (CH ₂ ) _n -N (COR ") - CH ₂ C0 ₂ X, (e) - (CH ₂ ) nN (CH2C02X) CH2C0 ₂ X and (f) - (CH ₂ ) _n NH- CH (Cθ2X) CH2Cθ2X, in which R 'represents a hydrogen atom or a CH2CO2X group; R "represents a linear or branched C1-C30 or cyclic C3-C30 alkyl group, n is an integer between 1 and 5, and preferably is equal to 2, X represents a hydrogen atom or a monovalent cation or divalent.

9. Composition of the preceding claim, characterized in that the sequestering agent is chosen from:

• the compounds comprising four carboxylic acid functions or their salts, when R represents a hydrogen atom and R 'represents a group -CH ₂ - C0 ₂ X, or when R represents the group -CH (C0 ₂ X) - (CH ₂ ) ₂ -C0 ₂ X and R 'represents a hydrogen atom; o the compounds comprising three carboxylic acid functions or their salts, when R represents the group -CH (CH ₃ ) -C0 ₂ X and R 'represents a hydrogen atom, or when R represents a group - (CH ₂ ) ₂ - N (0C0R ") - CH ₂ -C0 ₂ X and R 'represents a hydrogen atom.

10. Composition one of claims 8 or 9, characterized in that the sequestering agent is chosen from methylglycine diacetic acid, N-lauroyl-N, N ', N'-tri-acetic ethylenediamine, l iminodisuccinic acid, N, N-dicarboxymethyl L-glutamic acid, ethylenediamine N, N 'disuccinic acid, their salts, their mixtures.

11. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the content of sequestering agent represents 0.0001 to 20% by weight relative to the weight of the composition, more particularly between 0.001 to 10% by weight relative to the weight of the composition, preferably between 0.01 and 5% by weight relative to the weight of the composition.

12. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises at least one nonionic, anionic or amphoteric surfactant.

13. Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the surfactant content represents 0.01 to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

14. Composition, characterized in that it comprises the composition according to one of claims 1 to 13, and at least one oxidizing agent.

15. Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the oxidizing agent is chosen from hydrogen peroxide, urea peroxide, bramates of alkali metals, persalts such as perborates and persulfates, and enzymes such than peroxidases and oxidoreductases with two or four electrons, and preferably hydrogen peroxide.

16. Method for coloring with a lightening effect human keratin fibers, characterized in that the following steps are carried out: a) a composition as defined according to any one of claims 1 to 15 is applied to said fibers , for a time sufficient to develop the desired coloring and lightening, b) optionally rinsing the fibers, c) optionally washing with shampoo and rinsing the fibers, d) drying or allowing the fibers to dry.

17. The method of claim 16, characterized in that it comprises a preliminary step consisting in storing in separate form, on the one hand, a composition according to one of claims 1 to 13, and on the other hand, a composition containing, in a cosmetically acceptable medium, at least one oxidizing agent, then mixing them at the time of use before applying this mixture to the fibers for a time sufficient to develop the desired coloration, after which they are rinsed , they are optionally washed with shampoo, rinsed again and dried.

18. Method according to any one of claims 16 or 17, characterized in that the composition is applied to hair having a tone height less than or equal to 6 and preferably less than or equal to 4.

19. Method according to one of claims 16 to 18, characterized in that the human keratin fibers are artificially pigmented or colored.

20. A method of coloring with a lightening effect on dark skin, characterized in that a composition according to any one of claims 1 to 13 is applied to the skin, then the skin is dried or allowed to dry.

21. Device with several compartments for dyeing and lightening keratin fibers, comprising at least one compartment containing a composition according to one of claims 1 to 13, and at least one other compartment containing a composition containing at least one oxidizing agent .

22. Use for coloring with lightening effect of keratin materials, of a composition comprising in a cosmetically acceptable medium, at least one fluorescent dye soluble in said medium, and at least one complexing agent chosen from hydroxycarboxylic acids, polycarboxylic acids, and their monovalent or divalent alkali metal, alkaline earth metal, transition metal, organic amine or ammonium salts, alone or in mixtures.

23. Use according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the fluorescent dye leads to a maximum of reflectance lying in the wavelength range from 500 to 650 nanometers, and preferably in the wavelength range going from 550 to 620 nanometers.

24. Use according to any one of claims 22 or 23, characterized in that the fluorescent dye is chosen from fluorescent compounds belonging to the following families: naphthalimides; cationic or non-cationic coumarins; xanthenodiquinolizines; azaxanthenes; naphtholactams; azlactones; oxazines; thiazines; dioxazines; monocentic or polycationic fluorescent dyes of the azo, azomethine or methine type, alone or in mixtures.

25. Use according to any one of claims 22 to 24, characterized in that the fluorescent dye is chosen from the group formed by dyes of the following structures:

in which :

R1, R2, identical or different, represent: o a hydrogen atom;

An alkyl radical, linear or branched, comprising 1 to 10 carbon atoms, preferably 1 to 4 carbon atoms, optionally interrupted and / or substituted by at least one heteroatom and / or group comprising at least one heteroatom and / or substituted with at least one halogen atom; o an aryl or arylalkyl radical, the aryl group having 6 carbon atoms and the alkyl radical having 1 to 4 carbon atoms; the aryl radical being optionally substituted by one or more linear or branched alkyl radicals comprising 1 to 4 carbon atoms optionally interrupted and / or substituted by at least one heteroatom and / or group comprising at least one heteroatom and or substituted by at least one atom halogen;

• R1 and R2 can optionally be linked so as to form a heterocycle with the nitrogen atom and comprise one or more other heteroatoms, the heterocycle being optionally substituted by at least one linear or branched alkyl radical, preferably comprising 1 having 4 carbon atoms and being optionally interrupted and / or substituted by at least one heteroatom and / or group comprising at least one heteroatom and / or substituted by at least one halogen atom;

R3, R4, which may or may not be identical, represent a hydrogen atom, an alkyl radical comprising 1 to 4 carbon atoms; R5, which may or may not be identical, represent a hydrogen atom, a halogen atom, a linear or branched alkyl radical comprising 1 to 4 carbon atoms optionally interrupted by at least one heteroatom; R6, identical or not, represent a hydrogen atom; a halogen atom; a linear or branched alkyl radical comprising 1 to 4 carbon atoms, optionally substituted and / or interrupted by at least one heteroatom and / or group carrying at least one heteroatom and / or substituted by at least one halogen atom; X represents: “an alkyl radical, linear or branched comprising 1 to 14 carbon atoms, or alkenyl comprising 2 to 14 carbon atoms, optionally interrupted and / or substituted by at least one heteroatom and / or group comprising at least one heteroatom and / or substituted by at least one halogen atom;

• a heterocyclic radical comprising 5 or 6 members, optionally substituted by at least one linear or branched alkyl radical comprising 1 to 14 carbon atoms, optionally substituted by at least one heteroatom; by at least one aminoalkyl radical, linear or branched, comprising 1 to 4 carbon atoms, optionally substituted by at least one heteroatom; by at least one halogen atom; o an aromatic or diaromatic radical condensed or not, separated or not by an alkyl radical comprising 1 to 4 carbon atoms, the aryl radical (s) being optionally substituted by at least one halogen atom or by at least one alkyl radical comprising 1 with 10 carbon atoms optionally substituted and / or interrupted by at least one heteroatom and / or group carrying at least one heteroatom;

• a dicarbonyl radical;

• group X can carry one or more cationic charges; a being equal to 0 or 1;

Y ^" , identical or not, representing an organic or inorganic anion; n being an integer at least equal to 2 and at most equal to the number of cationic charges present in the fluorescent compound;

formula in which R represents a methyl or ethyl radical; R 'represents a methyl radical, X- a chloride, iodide, sulfate, methosulfate, acetate, perchlorate type anion.

26. Use according to any one of claims 22 to 25, characterized in that the keratin materials are keratin fibers pigmented or artificially colored, in particular hair, or dark skin.

27. Use according to claim 26, characterized in that the hair has a tone height less than or equal to 6 and preferably less than or equal to 4.