EP0555155B1 - Cosmetic composition containing a surfactant such as an alkylpolyglycoside and/or polyglycerol and an urethanpolyether - Google Patents

Abstract

The invention relates to a cosmetic composition containing, in a cosmetically acceptable medium, at least one non-ionic surfactant of the family of alkyl polyglycosides and/or one polyglycerolated non-ionic surfactant and at least one urethane polyether, as well as a process of cosmetic treatment consisting in applying to the skin or the hair a cosmetically effective quantity of this composition.

Description

The invention relates to cosmetic compositions containing at least one nonionic surfactant of the alkylpolyglycoside and / or polyglycerolated type and at least one urethane-polyether.

US Pat. No. 4,155,892 essentially describes the use of certain polyether urethanes for thickening latex-based paint compositions.

Urethane polyethers are also known as thickeners for compositions containing surfactants. European application EP 260 430 describes urethane polyethers which can be used in cosmetics to thicken the oxyethylenated fatty alcohols containing 8.5 to 15 moles of ethylene oxide, and the oxyethylenated sorbitan monoester to 20 moles of oxide. ethylene.

Surfactants of the family of alkylpolyglycosides or polyglycerolates have already been recommended in washing compositions for the hair or the skin. They are mild detergents, well tolerated and biodegradable.

Hair, attacked by atmospheric agents such as light or chemical treatments, and washed with conventional washing bases is difficult to disentangle and this drawback is further accentuated in the case of fine hair. The compositions containing urethane polyethers and nonionic surfactants described in European application EP 260 430 do not confer detangling properties.

The Applicant has just discovered, surprisingly, that the combination, in washing and / or treating compositions for keratin materials, of urethanes-polyethers with particular nonionic surfactants of the alkylpolyglycoside and / or polyglycerolated type confers on these compositions. considerably improved detangling properties. Furthermore, the combination according to the invention makes it possible to obtain a very soft foam compared to the generally rough foam resulting from the use of non-ionic agents.

In addition, the Applicant has found that the compositions containing such a combination have good cosmetic properties such as softness, a pleasant touch.

The present invention therefore relates to cosmetic compositions containing at least one nonionic surfactant of the alkylpolyglycoside and / or polyglycerolated type and at least one polyether urethane.

Another subject of the invention consists of the use of these compositions for the treatment and / or washing of keratin materials such as the hair or the skin, the hair being particularly preferred.

Another subject of the invention consists in a method of cosmetic treatment of the hair, or of the skin by means of the compositions in accordance with the invention; the method of washing and treating the hair being particularly preferred.

Other objects of the invention will appear on reading the description and the examples which follow.

The cosmetic compositions according to the invention contain, in a cosmetically acceptable medium, at least one non-ionic surfactant of the alkylpolyglycoside and / or polyglycerolated type and at least one urethane-polyether.

dans laquelle,
[(C₃ H₆ O) (C₂ H₄ O)]_{(bi, ai)}, avec (bi, ai) désignant (b, a) ou (b', a') signifie qu'il s'agit d'un polymère statistique d'oxyde de propylène et d'oxyde d'éthylène contenant a mole d'oxyde d'éthylène et b mole d'oxyde de propylène réparties de manière aléatoire dans la chaîne polymérique,
   A désigne un radical divalent dérivé d'un diisocyanate aliphatique, cycloaliphatique ou aromatique, de préférence un radical divalent dérivé d'un polyméthylène diisocyanate, toluylène diisocyanate ou méthanediphénylène diisocyanate;
R₁ et R₂, identiques ou différents, désignent un radical alkyle ou alcènyle en C₈-C₃₀, de préférence C₁₀-C₂₀, et plus particulièrement C₁₂-C₁₈;
   a_i et b_i, identiques ou différents, étant tels que la somme a_i + b_i varie de 20 à 200 moles et de préférence de 60 à 120 moles;
le rapport molaire a_i/b_i est compris entre $\frac{\text{30}}{\text{70}}$

et $\frac{\text{90}}{\text{10}}$

, de
préférence entre $\frac{\text{50}}{\text{50}}$

et $\frac{\text{90}}{\text{10}}$

et plus particulièrement entre $\frac{\text{70}}{\text{30}}$

et $\frac{\text{85}}{\text{15}}$

.Among the urethane-polyethers which can be used according to the invention, mention may be made of those corresponding to the following formula (I):

in which,
[(C ₃ H ₆ O) (C ₂ H ₄ O)] _{(bi, ai)} , with (bi, ai) denoting (b, a) or (b ', a') means that it is d a random polymer of propylene oxide and ethylene oxide containing a mole of ethylene oxide and b mole of propylene oxide randomly distributed in the polymer chain,
A denotes a divalent radical derived from an aliphatic, cycloaliphatic or aromatic diisocyanate, preferably a divalent radical derived from a polymethylene diisocyanate, toluylene diisocyanate or methanediphenylene diisocyanate;
R ₁ and R ₂ , identical or different, denote a C ₈ -C ₃₀ alkyl or alkenyl radical, preferably C ₁₀ -C ₂₀ , and more particularly C ₁₂ -C ₁₈ ;
a _i and b _i , identical or different, being such that the sum a _i + b _i varies from 20 to 200 moles and preferably from 60 to 120 moles;
the molar ratio a _i / b _i is between $\frac{\text{30}}{\text{70}}$

and $\frac{\text{90}}{\text{10}}$

, of
preference between $\frac{\text{50}}{\text{50}}$

and $\frac{\text{90}}{\text{10}}$

and more particularly between $\frac{\text{70}}{\text{30}}$

and $\frac{\text{85}}{\text{15}}$

.

The compounds of formula (I) which are more particularly preferred are those where A denotes the hexamethylene diisocyanate residue; R ₁ and R ₂ denote a lauryl radical or a mixture of radicals derived from tallow; the radicals R _i - [(C ₂ H ₄ O) - (C ₃ H ₆ O)] _{(ai, bi)} preferably have a molecular weight of the order of 4000, with Ri denoting R ₁ or R ₂ and a _i and b _i denoting a and b or a 'and b' defined above.

dans laquelle R_i, a_i et b_i désigent R₁ ou R₂, a ou a' et b ou b' qui ont les significations indiquées ci-dessus, utilisé (s) en excès par rapport au diisocyanate afin que ce dernier soit totalement consommé.The compounds of formula (I) can be obtained by reaction of a diisocyanate with one or two polyoxyethylenated and polyoxypropylenated fatty alcohols, of formula

in which R _i , a _i and b _i denote R ₁ or R ₂ , a or a 'and b or b' which have the meanings indicated above, used in excess with respect to the diisocyanate so that the latter is totally consumed.

Compounds of formula (I) which can be used according to the invention are described in European application EP 260 430 and marketed under the names DAPRAL T210 and DAPRAL T212 by AKZO.

• Groupe I
     Les uréthannes polyéthers répondant à la formule suivante :
  
          A-B_p-E_q-(B-E)_n-B_r-E_t-A
  
  dans laquelle,
  n est un nombre compris entre 1 et 10, p, q, r et t, indépendamment l'un de l'autre, valent soit 0 soit 1, avec au moins l'un de q ou r valant 1, et t valant zéro lorsque r égal 0, sous réserve que lorsque q vaut 1, alors
  soit p, r et t valent 0,
  soit p vaut 0 et r et t valent 1,
  soit t vaut 0 et r et p valent 1, et
  lorsque q vaut 0, alors r vaut 1 et p et t valent 0;
• Groupe II
     Les uréthannes polyéthers répondant à la formule suivante II
  
          (H-E-OCH₂)_sL[Q_v-(D_u-E-A)_w-R_z]_m
  
  dans laquelle,
     m est un nombre entier variant entre 2 et 4 et s un nombre entier variant entre 0 et 2, la somme de m et s variant entre 2 et 4, w est un nombre entier variant entre 1 et 3, et chacun de u, v et z est, indépendamment l'un de l'autre, 0 ou 1; L représente X, Y ou -O-, X étant un radical hydrocarboné hydrophobe contenant au moins un atome de carbone et de préférence un à quatre atomes de carbone, et Y un radical hydrophobe trivalent choisi parmi les groupements suivants:
  -OCONH(CH₂)₆N[CONH(CH₂)₆NHCO-O-]₂,
  CH₃C[CH₂O-OCNHC₇H₆NHCO-]₃, et
  CH₃CH₂C[CH₂O-OCNHC₇H₆NHCO-]₃;
  Q représente le groupe -CH₂C-, et D le groupe -CH₂O-, sous réserve que,
  • a) lorsque L représente X, alors u et w valent chacun 1, v et z valent 0, m vaut au moins 2 et la somme de m et s est 4;
  • b) lorsque L représente Y, alors u, v et s valent chacun 0, m vaut 3, w est 2 ou 3 et z est 0 ou 1; et
  • c) lorsque L représente -O-, alors v et u valent chacun 1, w varie entre 1 et 3, m vaut 2, et s et z valent chacun 0;
  dans chacune des formules de ces deux groupes, A et R représentent un radical organique hydrophobe; B un groupe divalent hydrophobe de formule :
  
  dans laquelle G est un radical divalent dérivé d'un di- ou d'un tri-isocyanate organique dont tous les groupes isocyanate ont réagi; et E représente un groupe polyéther hydrophile divalent, non ionique.
• Groupe III
  Les uréthannes polyéthers sont obtenus par réaction (a) d'un réactif polyfonctionnel choisi parmi les polyols organiques possédant au moins trois groupements hydroxyl, les polyisocyanates organiques possédant au moins trois groupements isocyanates, et leur mélange ;
  (b) un réactif difonctionnel choisi parmi les diols organiques, les diisocyanates organiques, et leur mélange, le diol étant présent dans le mélange de la réaction lorsque le polyisocyanate est présent et le diisocyanate étant présent lorsque le polyol est présent ;
  (c) un composé monofonctionnel hydroxyl ou amino en une quantité suffisante pour piéger tout groupement isocyanate n'ayant pas réagi lors de la réaction entre (a) et (b), et pour prévenir la coagulation du mélange réactionnel; et éventuellement (d) un monoisocyanate organique pour piéger les groupements hydroxyl restant après réaction entre (a) et (b); réaction dans laquelle, au moins l'un du polyol et du diol contient au moins un segment polyéther soluble dans l'eau d'un poids moléculaire d'au moins 1 500, la somme des atomes de carbone dans les réactifs contenant des groupements isocyanate, des groupements hydroxyl et des groupements amino, est d'au moins 20, et le poids moléculaire moyen des composants de la composition est environ 10 000 à 200 000.

Other polyether urethanes which can be used according to the invention have at least three urethane groups. Among these, mention may be made of those belonging to one of the following three groups of polyether urethanes:

• Group I
  Polyether urethanes corresponding to the following formula:
  
  AB _p -E _q - (BE) _n -B _r -E _t -A
  
  in which,
  n is a number between 1 and 10, p, q, r and t, independently of one another, are worth either 0 or 1, with at least one of q or r being 1, and t being zero when r is 0, provided that when q is 1, then
  let p, r and t be 0,
  either p is 0 and r and t are 1,
  let t be 0 and r and p are 1, and
  when q is 0, then r is 1 and p and t are 0;
• Group II
  Polyether urethanes corresponding to the following formula II
  
  (HE-OCH ₂ ) _s L [Q _v - (D _u -EA) _w -R _z ] _m
  
  in which,
  m is an integer varying between 2 and 4 and s an integer varying between 0 and 2, the sum of m and s varying between 2 and 4, w is an integer varying between 1 and 3, and each of u, v and z is, independently of one another, 0 or 1; L represents X, Y or -O-, X being a hydrophobic hydrocarbon radical containing at least one carbon atom and preferably one to four carbon atoms, and Y a trivalent hydrophobic radical chosen from the following groups:
  -OCONH (CH ₂ ) ₆ N [CONH (CH ₂ ) ₆ NHCO-O-] ₂ ,
  CH ₃ C [CH ₂ O-OCNHC ₇ H ₆ NHCO-] ₃ , and
  CH ₃ CH ₂ C [CH ₂ O-OCNHC ₇ H ₆ NHCO-] ₃ ;
  Q represents the group -CH ₂ C-, and D represents the group -CH ₂ O-, provided that,
  • a) when L represents X, then u and w are each worth 1, v and z are worth 0, m is at least 2 and the sum of m and s is 4;
  • b) when L represents Y, then u, v and s are each 0, m is 3, w is 2 or 3 and z is 0 or 1; and
  • c) when L represents -O-, then v and u are each 1, w varies between 1 and 3, m is 2, and s and z are each 0;
  in each of the formulas of these two groups, A and R represent a hydrophobic organic radical; B a divalent hydrophobic group of formula :
  
  in which G is a divalent radical derived from an organic di- or tri-isocyanate in which all the isocyanate groups have reacted; and E represents a divalent, nonionic hydrophilic polyether group.
• Group III
  The polyether urethanes are obtained by reaction (a) of a polyfunctional reagent chosen from organic polyols having at least three hydroxyl groups, organic polyisocyanates having at least three isocyanate groups, and their mixture;
  (b) a difunctional reagent chosen from organic diols, organic diisocyanates, and their mixture, the diol being present in the reaction mixture when the polyisocyanate is present and the diisocyanate being present when the polyol is present;
  (c) a hydroxyl or amino monofunctional compound in an amount sufficient to trap any isocyanate group unreacted during the reaction between (a) and (b), and to prevent coagulation of the reaction mixture; and optionally (d) an organic monoisocyanate to trap the hydroxyl groups remaining after reaction between (a) and (b); reaction in which at least one of the polyol and the diol contains at least one water-soluble polyether segment with a molecular weight of at least 1,500, the sum of the carbon atoms in the reactants containing isocyanate groups , hydroxyl groups and amino groups, is at least 20, and the average molecular weight of the components of the composition is approximately 10,000 to 200,000.

The compounds of groups I, II and II which can be used according to the invention are more fully described in US Pat. No. 4,155,892, and marketed under the name ACRYSOL by the company ROHM and HAAS.

dans laquelle,
R désigne un radical ou un mélange de radicaux alkyles ou alcényles à chaîne droite ou ramifiée en C₈-C₂₄;
x est un nombre compris entre 1 et 15.The alkylpolyglycosides which can be used in accordance with the invention correspond in particular to the following formula (II):

R (C ₆ H ₁₀ O ₅ ) _x -H (II)

corresponding to the developed structure (III)

in which,
R denotes a radical or a mixture of C ₈ -C ₂₄ straight or branched chain alkyl or alkenyl radicals;
x is a number between 1 and 15.

The alkylpolyglycoside compounds of structural formula (III) defined above, used in accordance with the invention, are preferably represented by the products sold by the company HENKEL under the name APG, such as the products APG 300, APG 350, APG 500 , APG 550, APG 625, APG base 10-12; the products sold by SEPPIC under the names TRITON CG 110 (or ORAMIX CG 110) and TRITON CG 312 (or ORAMIX NS 10); those sold by the BASF Company under the name LUTENSOL GD 70.

• (A) Les composés répondant à la formule (IV) :
  
  dans laquelle le groupement [C₃H₅ (OH)] représente les structures suivantes; prises ensemble ou séparément
  
  et R et n ont une des significations ci-après :
  • a) R représente un radical ou un mélange de radicaux alkyle en C₁₀-C₁₄ et n est un nombre entier ou décimal de 2 à 10 et de préférence 3 à 6.
  • b) R représente un reste :
    
            R₂ CONH CH₂ - CH₂O CH₂ - CH₂ -     (V)
    
    où R₂ désigne un radical ou un mélange de radicaux alkyle et/ou alcényle en C₁₁-C₁₇ et n désigne un nombre entier ou décimal de 1 à 5 et de préférence de 1,5 à 4.
  • c) R représente un reste :
    
            R₃ - CHOH - CH₂ -     (VI)
    
    où R₃ désigne un radical aliphatique, cycloaliphatique, arylaliphatique en C₇-C₂₁ et leurs mélanges, les chaînes aliphatiques désignant en particulier des chaînes alkyle pouvant comporter de 1 à 6 groupements éther, thioéther et/ou hydroxyméthylène et n désigne un nombre entier ou décimal de 1 à 10.
  
  Ces tensioactifs de formule (IV) peuvent être préparés selon les procédés décrits dans les brevets FR 1 477 048, 2 328 763 et 2 091 516;
• (B) Les composés préparés par condensation, en catalyse acide, de 2 à 10 et de préférence de 2, 5 à 6 moles de glycidol par mole d'alcool ou d'alpha-diol contenant 10 à 14 atomes de carbone, à une température de 50 à 120°C, le glycidol étant ajouté lentement à l'alcool ou à l'alpha-diol. Le procédé de préparation de ces composés est décrit dans le brevet FR-A-2 169 787;
• (C) Les composés polyhydroxypropyléthers préparés par polyaddition de monochlorhydrine du glycérol sur un composé organique polyhydroxylé en présence d'une base forte, avec élimination au fur et à mesure de l'eau par distillation. Ces composés sont décrits dans le brevet français FR-A-2 574 786.

Nonionic surfactants of the polyglycerolated type used in accordance with the present invention, are preferably chosen from the following polyhydroxypropylether compounds:

• (A) The compounds corresponding to formula (IV):
  
  in which the group [C ₃ H ₅ (OH)] represents the following structures; taken together or separately
  
  and R and n have one of the following meanings:
  • a) R represents a radical or a mixture of C ₁₀ -C ₁₄ alkyl radicals and n is an integer or decimal number from 2 to 10 and preferably 3 to 6.
  • b) R represents a remainder:
    
    R ₂ CONH CH ₂ - CH ₂ O CH ₂ - CH ₂ - (V)
    
    where R ₂ denotes a radical or a mixture of C ₁₁ -C ₁₇ alkyl and / or alkenyl radicals and n denotes an integer or decimal number from 1 to 5 and preferably from 1.5 to 4.
  • c) R represents a remainder:
    
    R ₃ - CHOH - CH ₂ - (VI)
    
    where R ₃ denotes a C ₇ -C ₂₁ aliphatic, cycloaliphatic, arylaliphatic radical and their mixtures, the aliphatic chains denoting in particular alkyl chains which may contain from 1 to 6 ether, thioether and / or hydroxymethylene groups and n denotes an integer or decimal from 1 to 10.
  
  These surfactants of formula (IV) can be prepared according to the methods described in patents FR 1 477 048, 2 328 763 and 2 091 516;
• (B) Compounds prepared by condensation, in acid catalysis, from 2 to 10 and preferably 2.5 to 6 moles of glycidol per mole of alcohol or alpha-diol containing 10 to 14 carbon atoms, at a temperature of 50 to 120 ° C, the glycidol being added slowly to the alcohol or alpha-diol. The process for the preparation of these compounds is described in patent FR-A-2,169,787;
• (C) The polyhydroxypropyl ethers compounds prepared by polyaddition of glycerol monochlorohydrin on a polyhydroxylated organic compound in the presence of a strong base, with elimination as water progressively distilled. These compounds are described in French patent FR-A-2,574,786.

• (α)
  
  où R₁ désigne un mélange de radicaux alkyles en C₁₀H₂₁ et C₁₂ H₂₅;
• (β) les composés préparés par condensation en catalyse alcaline, de 3, 5 moles glycidol sur un alphadiol ayant 12 atomes de carbone, selon le procédé décrit dans le brevet FR-A-2 091 516;
• (γ) les composés répondant à la formule :
  
  où R₂ désigne un mélange de radicaux comprenant les radicaux alkyle et alcényle suivants :
  C₁₁H₂₃,C₁₃H₂₇, les radicaux dérivés des acides gras du coprah et le radical dérivé de l'acide oléique;
• (δ) les composés préparés par condensation de 3,5 moles de glycidol sur un mélange d'alphadiols en C₁₁-C₁₄, décrits dans le brevet FR-A-2 091 516.

Among the nonionic surfactants of the family of polyhydroxypropyl ethers described in paragraphs (A), (B) and (C) above, the preferred compounds are represented by the formulas:

• (α)
  
  where R ₁ denotes a mixture of C ₁₀ H ₂₁ and C ₁₂ H ₂₅ alkyl radicals;
• (β) the compounds prepared by condensation in alkaline catalysis, of 3.5 moles glycidol on an alphadiol having 12 carbon atoms, according to the process described in patent FR-A-2,091,516;
• (γ) the compounds corresponding to the formula:
  
  where R ₂ denotes a mixture of radicals comprising the following alkyl and alkenyl radicals:
  C ₁₁ H ₂₃ , C ₁₃ H ₂₇ , the radicals derived from coconut fatty acids and the radical derived from oleic acid;
• (δ) the compounds prepared by condensation of 3.5 moles of glycidol on a mixture of C ₁₁ -C ₁₄ alphadiols, described in patent FR-A-2,091,516.

The nonionic polyhydroxypropyl ether surfactant obtained by condensation of glycerol monochlorohydrin (2.5 moles) in the presence of sodium hydroxide on 1,2-dodecanediol is more particularly preferred.

The urethane-polyethers are used in the compositions in accordance with the invention, in proportions of between 0.1 and 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition and preferably between 0.3 and 5% by weight.

If the compositions according to the invention are not used for washing keratin materials, the nonionic surfactant (s) of alkylpolyglycoside and / or polyglycerolated type are used in such compositions in proportions of between 0.5 and 10 % by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. These compositions are used in particular as rinsing compositions, applied after shampooing, coloring, bleaching, perming, straightening.

If the compositions according to the invention are washing compositions, they contain the nonionic surfactant (s) in proportions of between 3 and 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition and more particularly between 5 and 30% by weight. weight.

The pH of the compositions according to the invention is generally between 2 and 9, more particularly between 3 and 6.

Insofar as the cosmetically acceptable medium of composition according to the invention is an aqueous medium, it may consist solely of water or of a mixture of water and a cosmetically acceptable solvent, such as lower alcohols. C ₁ -C ₄ , such as ethanol, isopropanol, n-butanol; alkylene glycols, such as ethylene glycol, glycol ethers.

The compositions according to the invention may be in the form of more or less thickened liquids, gels, emulsions (milks or creams), hydroalcoholic lotions, dispersions, or foams aerosol.

The compositions are, for example, lotions, milks or emollient creams, lotions, milks or creams for the care of keratin materials, makeup-removing creams or milks, foundations of foundations, lotions, milks or sunscreen creams, lotions, artificial tanning milks or creams, shaving creams or foams, after shave lotions, eye makeup products, face shadows and foundations, shampoos , bath or shower products, rinse-off compositions, to be applied after shampooing, coloring, bleaching, perming or straightening.

The compositions in accordance with the invention may optionally contain, in addition, various additives which do not alter the properties of the compositions, such as anionic, cationic, amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants, nonionic surfactants other than those described above, anionic, nonionic, cationic or amphoteric polymers, proteins, hydrocarbon oils such as synthetic oils such as isoparaffins or mineral, vegetable or animal oils, oils, waxes, resins and / or silicone gums, agents acidifying or basifying agents, preservatives, active ingredients, other thickeners, suspending agents, softeners, sunscreens, perfumes or other adjuvants commonly used in cosmetics.

The compositions according to the invention are applied to the skin or the hair in a cosmetically effective amount, depending on the nature of the composition.

A particular application of the compositions according to the invention is the application as a composition for washing and cosmetic treatment of keratin materials, preferably of the skin and hair and more particularly as a shampoo. In this case, the shampoo is applied to damp or dry hair in amounts effective for washing it, this application being followed by rinsing.

The following examples are intended to illustrate the invention without, however, being limiting in nature.

EXAMPLE 1

A shampoo of the following composition is prepared: Alkyl (C ₉ -C ₁₀ -C ₁₁ / 20-40-40) polyglycoside (1,4) sold at 50% of MA by the company HENKEL under the name APG 300 15gMA Polyether urethane sold under the name DAPRAL T210 by AKZO 2.5g Perfume, preservative qs spontaneous pH 6.2 Water qs 100g

EXAMPLE 2

A shampoo of the following composition is prepared Alkyl (C ₁₀ -C ₁₂ -C ₁₄ / 85-10-5) polyglycoside (1,4) sold at 55% of MA under the name ORAMIX NS 10 by the company SEPPIC 15 gMA Polyether urethane sold under the name DAPRAL T212 by AKZO 2 g Perfume, preservative qs spontaneous pH 6.2 Water qs 100g

EXAMPLE 3

dans laquelle :

R = chaîne alkyle en C₁₂-C₁₄
n = valeur moyenne de 4,5

vendu sous la dénomination AKYPO RLM 45 par la société CHEM Y 5gMA Copolymère de chlorure de diallyl diméthyl ammonium et d'acrylamide vendu en solution aqueuse à 8 % de MA sous la dénomination MERQUAT S par la société MERCK 0,5 gMA Parfum, conservateur   qs pH spontané   4,5 Eau   qsp 100 g A shampoo of the following composition is prepared Alkyl (C ₁₀ -C ₁₂ -C ₁₄ / 85-10-5) polyglycoside (1,4) sold at 55% of MA under the name ORAMIX NS 10 by the company SEPPIC 10gMA Polyether urethane sold under the name DAPRAL T210 by AKZO 2 g Polyoxyethylenated carboxylic ether type surfactant of formula:

R (OCH ₂ CH ₂ ) _n OCH ₂ COOH

in which :

R = C ₁₂ -C ₁₄ alkyl chain
n = average value of 4.5

sold under the name AKYPO RLM 45 by the company CHEM Y 5gMA Copolymer of diallyl dimethyl ammonium chloride and acrylamide sold in aqueous solution at 8% of MA under the name MERQUAT S by the company MERCK 0.5 gMA Perfume, preservative qs spontaneous pH 4.5 Water qs 100g

EXAMPLE 4

A shampoo of the following composition is prepared Nonionic poly (hydroxypropylether) surfactant prepared by condensation, in alkaline catalysis, of 3.5 moles of glycidol on a mixture of alphadiols having 10 to 14 carbon atoms, according to the process described in French patent n ° 2,091,516 15g Polyether urethane sold under the name DAPRAL T212 by AKZO 2.5g Perfume, preservative qs spontaneous pH 6.8 Water qs 100g

EXAMPLE 5

A conditioner of the following composition is prepared Alkyl (C ₉ -C _10- C ₁₁ / 20-40-40) polyglycoside (1,4) sold at 50% of MA by the company HENKEL under the name APG 300 2 gMA Polyether urethane sold under the name DAPRAL T210 by AKZO 7 g Cetyltrimethylammonium chloride sold in aqueous solution at 25% of MA under the name DEHYQUART A by the company HENKEL 1 gMA Conservative qs Sodium hydroxide qs pH 6 Water qs 100g

This composition is applied to damp and clean hair. After a few minutes of laying the hair is rinsed and dried.

EXAMPLE 6

A shampoo of the following composition is prepared: Alkyl (C ₉ -C ₁₀ -C ₁₁ / 20-40-40) polyglycoside (1,4) sold at 50% of MA by the company HENKEL under the name APG 300 10 gMA Polyether urethane sold under the name DAPRAL T212 by AKZO 2.5g Ammonium lauryl sulfate at 30% MA 3 gMA Amphoteric polymer derived from chitosan described in French Patent No. 2,137,684 1 g Perfume, preservative qs spontaneous pH 3.8 Water qs 100g

EXAMPLE 7

A shampoo of the following composition is prepared: Alkyl (C ₉ -C ₁₀ -C ₁₁ / 20-40-40) polyglycoside (1,4) sold at 50% of MA by the company HENKEL under the name APG 300 15 g MA Polyether urethane, sold in 20% aqueous dispersion under the name ACRYSOL RM8 by the company ROHM and HAAS 5 g MA Perfume, preservative qs HCl qs pH 7.3 Water qs 100g

EXAMPLE 8

A shampoo of the following composition is prepared: Alkyl (C ₉ -C ₁₀ -C ₁₁ / 20-40-40) polyglycoside (1,4) sold at 50% of MA by the company HENKEL under the name APG 300 15 g MA Polyether urethane, sold in 20% aqueous dispersion under the name ACRYSOL RM2020 by the company ROHM and HAAS 5 g MA Perfume, preservative qs HCl qs pH 6.7 Water qs 100g

EXAMPLE 9

A shampoo of the following composition is prepared: Nonionic poly (hydrocypropylether) surfactant prepared by condensation, in alkaline catalysis, of 3.5 moles of glycidol on a mixture of alphadiols having 10 to 14 carbon atoms, according to the process in French patent n ° 2,091,516 10 g Polyether urethane, sold in 20% aqueous dispersion under the name ACRYSOL RM8 by the company ROHM and HAAS 5 g MA Perfume, preservative qs NaOH qs pH 7 Water qs 100g

EXAMPLE 10

A shampoo of the following composition is prepared: Alkyl C ₈ -C ₁₀ (50/50) polyglycoside (2) sold at 60% of MA by the company SEPPIC under the name TRITON CG110 48 g MA Polyether urethane, sold in 20% aqueous dispersion under the name ACRYSOL RM2020 by the company ROHM and HAAS 3 g MA Perfume, preservative qs NaOH qs pH 7 Water qs 100g

Claims (18)

1. Cosmetic composition characterized in that it contains in a cosmetically acceptable medium at least one nonionic surface-active agent of the family of alkyl polyglycosides and/or one glycerolated nonionic surface-active agent and at least one polyetherurethane.
2. Composition according to Claim 1, characterized in that the polyetherurethane is of the following formula:

   

   in which:
   [(C₃H₆O) (C₂H₄O)]_(bi,ai), with (b_i, a_i) denoting (b, a) or (b', a'), means that it is a random polymer of propylene oxide and ethylene oxide containing a mole of ethylene oxide and b mole of propylene oxide distributed in a random manner in the polymeric chain,
      A denotes a divalent radical derived from an aliphatic, cycloaliphatic or aromatic diisocyanate, R₁ and R₂, which are identical or different, denote a C₈-C₃₀, preferably C₁₀-C₂₀, alkyl or alkenyl radical;
      a_i and b_i, which are identical or different, are such that the sum of between a_i + b_i is a number between 20 to 200 moles, and preferably between 60 to 120 moles; the molar ratio a_i/b_i is between $\frac{\text{30}}{\text{70}}$

   

   and $\frac{\text{90}}{\text{10}}$

   

   , preferably between $\frac{\text{50}}{\text{50}}$

   

   and $\frac{\text{90}}{\text{10}}$

   

   .
3. Composition according to Claim 2, characterized in that A denotes a divalent radical derived from a polymethylene diisocyanate, tolylene diisocyanate or methanediphenylene diisocyanate.
4. Composition according to either of Claims 1 or 3, characterized in that A denotes the divalent radical derived from hexamethylene diisocyanate and that R₁ and R₂ denote a lauryl radical or a mixture of radicals derived from tallow.
5. Composition according to Claim 1, characterized in that the polyetherurethane has at least three urethane groups.
6. Composition according to Claim 5, characterized in that the polyetherurethane is chosen from those represented by the following groups:

   Group I
      The polyetherurethanes of the following formula:
   
           A-B_p- E_q- (B-E) _n-B_r-E_t-A
   
   in which,
   n is a number between 1 and 10, p, q, r and t, independently of each other, are equal to either 0 or 1, with at least one of g or r being equal to 1, and t being equal to zero when r is equal to 0, provided that when q is equal to 1, then
   either p, r and t are equal to 0,
   or p is equal to 0 and r and t are equal to 1,
   or t is equal to 0 and r and p are equal to 1, and
   when q is equal to 0, then r is equal to 1 and p and t are equal to 0;

   Group II
      The polyetherurethanes of the following formula II
   
           (H-E-OCH₂)_sL[Q_v-(D_u-E-A)_w-R_z]_m
   
   in which,
      m is an integer ranging from 2 to 4 and s is an integer ranging from 0 to 2, the sum of m and s ranging from 2 to 4, w is an integer ranging from 1 to 3, and each of u, v and z is, independently of each other, 0 or 1; L represents X, Y or -O-, X being a hydrophobic hydrocarbon radical containing at least one carbon atom, and preferably one to four carbon atoms, and Y a trivalent hydrophobic radical chosen from the following groups:
   -OCONH(CH₂)₆N[CONH(CH₂)₆NHCO-O-]₂,
   CH₃C[CH₂O-OCNHC₇H₆NHCO-]₃
   and CH₃CH₂C[CH₂O-OCNHC₇H₆NHCO-]₃;
   Q represents the group -CH₂C-, and D the group -CH₂O-, provided that,

   • a) when L represents X, then u and w are each equal to 1, v and z are equal to 0, m is equal to not less than 2 and the sum of m and s is 4;

   • b) when L represents Y, then u, v and s are each equal to 0, m is equal to 3, w is 2 or 3 and z is 0 or 1; and

   • c) when L represents -O-, then v and u are each equal to 1, w ranges from 1 to 3, m is equal to 2, and s and z are each equal to 0;

   in each of the formulae for both of these groups, A and R represent a hydrophobic organic radical; B a hydrophobic divalent group of formula:

   

   in which G is a divalent radical derived from an organic di- or triisocyanate all of whose isocyanate groups have reacted; and E represents a nonionic, divalent hydrophilic polyether group.

   Group III
      The polyetherurethanes are obtained by reaction

   (a) of a polyfunctional reagent chosen from organic polyols having at least three hydroxyl groups, organic polyisocyanates having at least three isocyanate groups, and mixtures thereof;

   (b) a difunctional reagent chosen from organic diols, organic diisocyanates, and mixtures thereof, the diol being present in the reaction mixture when the polyisocyanate is present and the diisocyanate being present when the polyol is present;

   (c) a hydroxyl or amino monofunctional compound in a quantity sufficient to trap any isocyanate group which did not react during the reaction between (a) and (b), and to prevent coagulation of the reaction mixture; and, optionally, (d) an organic monoisocyanate for trapping the hydroxyl groups remaining after reaction between (a) and (b); a reaction in which at least either the polyol or the diol contains at least one water-soluble polyether segment with a molecular weight of not less than 1500, the sum of the carbon atoms in the reagents containing isocyanate groups, hydroxyl groups and amino groups is not less than 20, and the average molecular weight of the components of the composition is about 10,000 to 200,000.
7. Composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 6, characterized in that the nonionic surface-active agents of the family of alkyl polyglycosides are of the following formula:
   
           R(C₆H₁₀O₅)_x-H     (II)
   
   which corresponds to the following structural formula

   

   in which,
   R denotes an alkyl or alkenyl radical or a mixture of alkyl or alkenyl radicals containing a linear or branched C₈-C₂₄ chain;
   x is a number between 1 and 15.
8. Composition according to one of Claims 1 to 7, characterized in that the polyglycerolated nonionic surface-active agents are chosen from the following polyhydroxypropyl ethers:

   (A) The compounds of the formula (IV):

   

   in which the group [C₃H₅(OH)] represents the following structures taken together or separately
   
           -[CH₂CHOH - CH₂ -O⁆     (IVa),
   
   and

   

   and R and n have one of the meanings below:

   a) R represents a C₁₀-C₁₄ alkyl radical or a mixture of C₁₀-C₁₄ alkyl radicals and n is an integer or a decimal from 2 to 10, preferably 3 to 6.

   b) R represents a residue:
   
           R₂CONHCH₂-CH₂OCH₂-CH₂-     (V)
   
   where R₂ denotes a C₁₁-C₁₇ alkyl and/or alkenyl radical or a mixture of C₁₁-C₁₇ alkyl and/or alkenyl radicals and n denotes an integer or a decimal from 1 to 5, and preferably from 1.5 to 4.

   c) R represents a residue:
   
           R₃-CHOH-CH₂-     (VI)
   
   where R₃ denotes an aliphatic, cycloaliphatic or arylaliphatic C₇-C₂₁ radical and mixtures thereof, the aliphatic chains denoting in particular alkyl chains which may contain from 1 to 6 ether, thioether and/or hydroxymethylene groups and n denotes an integer or decimal from 1 to 10.

   (B) The compounds prepared by condensation, using acid catalysis, of 2 to 10, preferably 2.5 to 6 moles of glycidol per mole of alcohol or alpha-diol containing 10 to 14 carbon atoms, at a temperature of 50 to 120°C, the glycidol being slowly added to the alcohol or alpha-diol.

   (C) The polyhydroxypropyl ether compounds prepared by polyaddition of glycerol monochlorohydrin to a polyhydroxylated organic compound in the presence of a strong base, with constant removal of water by distillation.
9. Composition according to Claim 8, characterized in that the polyglycerolated nonionic surface-active agents are chosen from the following polyhydroxypropyl ethers:

   (α)

   

   where R₁ denotes a mixture of C₁₀H₂₁ and C₁₂H₂₅ alkyl radicals;

   (β) the compounds prepared by condensation, using alkaline catalysis, of 3.5 moles of glycidol with an alpha-diol having 12 carbon atoms;

   (γ) the compounds of the formula:

   

   where R₂ denotes a mixture of radicals comprising the following alkyl and alkenyl radicals: C₁₁H₂₃, C₁₃H₂₇, the radicals derived from fatty acids from copra and the radical derived from oleic acid;

   (δ) the compounds prepared by condensation of 3.5 moles of glycidol with a mixture of C₁₁-C₁₄ alpha-diols;

   (ε) the compounds obtained by condensation of 2.5 moles of glycerol monochlorohydrin with 1,2-dodecanediol in the presence of sodium hydroxide.
10. Composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 9, characterized in that it contains between 0.1 and 10% by weight, and preferably between 0.3 and 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, of polyetherurethanes.
11. Composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 10, characterized in that it contains 0.5 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, of nonionic surface-active agents of the family of alkyl polyglycosides and/or polyglycerolated agents.
12. Composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 10, characterized in that it contains 3 to 50% by weight, preferably 5 to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of nonionic surface-active agents of the family of alkyl polyglycosides and/or polyglycerolated agents.
13. Composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 12, characterized in that the cosmetically acceptable medium is an aqueous medium composed of water alone or of a mixture of water and a cosmetically acceptable solvent.
14. Composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 13, characterized in that it is provided in the form of a liquid which is more or less thickened, a gel, emulsion, dilute alcoholic lotion, dispersion or aerosol foam.
15. Composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 14, characterized in that it contains anionic, cationic, amphoteric or zwitterionic surface-active agents, other nonionic surface-active agents, anionic, cationic, nonionic or amphoteric polymers, proteins, hydrocarbon-containing oils, silicone oils, waxes, resins or gums, acidifying or alkalinizing agents, preserving agents, active ingredients, other thickeners, suspending agents, emollients, sunscreen agents, perfumes or other adjuvants commonly used in cosmetics.
16. Use of the composition as defined in any one of Claims 1 to 15 for cosmetically treating and/or washing keratinous materials consisting of the hair or the skin.
17. Process for cosmetic treatment characterized in that it consists in applying to the skin or the hair a cosmetically effective amount of the composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 15.
18. Process for the cosmetic washing and treatment of hair characterized in that it consists in applying to wet or dry hair, an effective amount, so as to wash it, of the composition as described in any one of Claims 1 to 10 and 12 to 15 and that the hair is then rinsed with water.