EP0019295A2 - Method and apparatus for finishing textile fabrics - Google Patents

Abstract

1. Method for finishing textile fabrics, especially parts having a waistband for vests, pullovers or similar knitted goods, which, placed side by side or possibly one behind the other, assembled in a web of fabrics in transversely stretched position, are fed to a steaming zone and separated again along the connecting seams running parallel to the longitudinal direction of the web, characterized in that the web stretched in transverse direction to a predetermined width in a stretching zone is cut into longitudinal strips along the connecting seams while still being in the stretching zone and that, while they are being cut longitudinally and until they enter the steaming zone, the edges of these strips are held down to prevent them from rolling up.

Description

The invention relates to a method and a device for equipping pieces of textile goods, in particular parts provided with a collar for vests, pullovers or the like. Knitwear, which is assembled into a web in a cross-tensioned position, fed to a steaming zone and separated again along the connecting seams.

Textile goods for sweaters, vests or the like. Knitwear is usually provided with a waistband. In order not to let them run individually through the relatively wide steaming machines for finishing, such as steaming, shrinking, smoothing, etc., two or more sections are connected side by side by means of drop stitches to form a web, which can also include several pieces in length. This connection is usually made using meltable separating threads that are melted in the steaming zone. Up to now, a single web of material for equipping has been introduced into a damping and separating device, so that it is laterally gripped at its edges to prevent curling and the formation of folds or waves and stretched in the transverse direction. Thereby also the Bundles recorded and extended to the width of the goods. A web of material thus formed is then passed through the damping device as a continuously flat web of the same width. With sufficient heating, the separating threads that may be present also melt in order to separate the pieces of goods arranged one behind the other. The lateral connection of the goods is finally released only after steaming by cutting the drop stitches. This shows, however, that the individual goods no longer take the desired shape. Above all, the bundles of the goods, which have been dampened under increased stretching and have thereby been fixed, no longer revert to their original shape and usually have to be assembled again before they are processed further.

The invention is therefore based on the object of providing a method and a device for finishing textile, in particular provided with a collar, pieces of goods in order to equip the pieces of goods fed to a steaming device in a composite web in a form-fitting manner.

To achieve this object, the method of the type mentioned according to the invention is characterized in that the web stretched in transverse direction to a predetermined width is still cut into longitudinal strips in the tensioning field and the longitudinal strip edges during the longitudinal cutting up to the entry into the damping zone to prevent curling to be held down.

After separation, for example, pieces of goods treated by this method can, for example, be cut back into the desired shape and inserted essentially stress-free, but nevertheless in a flat, extended position into the steaming device, in which the pieces of goods can then be inserted steamed, smoothed and fixed while maintaining their shape. By separating into the longitudinal strips prior to the heat treatment, well-shaped and congruent goods are again obtained in a simple manner. By holding down the cut longitudinal strip edges, they essentially maintain their transverse tension and extension until they enter the steaming zone. If a certain relaxation and re-development of the goods, in particular the bundles, already occurs during this transfer, this does not harm as long as it is ensured that the longitudinal strips can be subjected to further treatment in the stripped state and, if appropriate, also pulled out to a slight transverse tension. However, if the longitudinal strips are transferred while maintaining their transverse tension, the relaxation in transverse distortion, in particular in the more elastic bundles, will take place at the latest when inserted between the transport cloths of the damping device.

An advantageous device for carrying out the method is characterized in that the cutting devices for the material web are arranged near the passage end of a clamping field, that a hold-down device is provided for the cutting edges of the goods on both sides of each cutting device, and that extensions of this hold-down device are placed on a transport cloth of a damping and overlap device.

The hold-down devices advantageously work together with a cutting base, in which a cutting gap is formed, in which the cutting edge of a circular knife rotating about an axis of rotation transverse to the direction of travel of the web is lowered.

With a cutting device designed in this way, the material webs can be run at high throughput speeds along the separating seams, which are usually marked by drop stitches slit longitudinally and the longitudinal strips thus separated can immediately run into the steaming and separating device. The cut edges of the product line are still guided and held in the desired position by the hold-down devices and their extensions.

In order to keep the web to be cut under a uniform transverse tension and to remove this transverse tension after the longitudinal cutting, lateral needle chains equipped with needles standing down are provided in the inlet.

Further features of the invention are claimed in further subclaims.

• Fig. 1 eine Seitenansicht einer am Ende eines Spannfeldes und unmittelbar vor einer Dämpf- und Trennvorrichtung angeordneten Schneidvorrichtung,
• Fig. 2 eine Draufsicht zur Fig. 1 mit zwei nebeneinander angeordneten Sohneidvorrichtungen,
• Fig. 3 eine Seitenansicht eines in den Figuren i und 2 angedeuteten Richtgerätes in vergrößerter Darstellung,
• Fig. 4 eine Seitenansicht einer Schneidvorrichtung mit einem verlängerten Niederhalter und
• Fig. 5 eine Stirnansioht hierzu.

The invention is described in more detail below with reference to exemplary embodiments which are also shown in the drawing. They represent:

• 1 is a side view of a cutting device arranged at the end of a clamping field and immediately in front of a damping and separating device,
• 2 shows a top view of FIG. 1 with two adjacent cutting devices,
• 3 shows a side view of a straightening device indicated in FIGS. I and 2 in an enlarged view,
• Fig. 4 is a side view of a cutting device with an extended hold-down and
• 5 shows a front view of this.

The equipment machine shown in the drawing brings, according to FIG. 1, a product strand W to be treated (in FIG. 3) via an inlet (not shown) into a clamping field 1, from here to a needling and transition zone 2 and finally to a steaming and Isolation device 3, which is then connected to a cooling zone and subsequent goods acceptance (not shown). At the end

of the clamping field 1, but before the needling point 4, the cutting devices 5 are arranged. These cutting devices are used for the longitudinal cutting of a web or a strand of goods, for example from pieces sewn together by means of drop stitches and pieces of goods connected one behind the other by means of fusible separating threads, such as parts for body parts from the west, pullovers or the like. Knitwear, usually with a waistband. In this way, the overall width of an equipment machine can be loaded with several sections lying side by side and any number one behind the other, making work more economical. The material web is first fed by shrinking brushes (not visible) and automatically needled onto laterally extending needle chains 7. Because the needles of these needle chains are directed downwards onto a transport cloth 8, it is possible to guide the material web tightly and without sagging over the transport cloth. The material web and thus the goods are stretched to a predetermined width in this clamping field. The bundles, which consist of a firmer but also more elastic knitwear and which in the initial shape are more strongly drawn towards the center than the other areas of the fabric, experience an increased stretching. The needling of the material web from these needle chains takes place downwards and only after the longitudinal cutting immediately before the entry into the subsequent steaming and separating device, so that the goods are taken over without warping and curling of the edges. The material web can be untreated, that is, it can only be stretched and fed to the cutting device under tension. On the other hand, pre-steaming is also possible before cutting, provided that this should be advantageous for the items to be extracted, for example for items made of acrylic threads.

The machine shown in FIGS. 1 and 2 is equipped with two cutting devices 5 between the two needle chains 7. This means that the web is divided by two Longitudinal cuts are divided into three longitudinal strips. If a web consists of only two or more than three pieces of fabric sewn together, then either only one or more cutting devices must be provided.

The cutting device 5 shown according to FIGS. 1 to 3 consists of a stationary cutting shoe 10, over which the material web W to be cut is guided, a circular knife 12 rotating about an axis 11 which is transverse to the direction of movement of the material web, which engages in a cutting gap 13 of the cutting shoe and on both sides of the circular knife arranged on the surface of the cutting shoe 10 hold-down 15, which in the embodiment shown consist of one behind the other rollers 17, 18 and a Andrüokband 20 running thereon. The pressure tapes extend to the area of the cutting shoe, so they start a noticeable piece in front of the circular knife and only end after this. A straightening device 21 is arranged in front of the hold-down devices and consists of an optical scanner 22 and one in front of it, but also in the area of the cutting shoe = the straightening wheel 23. The circular knife and the hold-down device on each side of each cutting device are fastened, for example, to a support block 25 which is mounted so as to be laterally displaceable on support tubes 36 by means of longitudinal supports 24. The circular knife is carried by a holder 26. The rollers 17, 18 of each hold-down device 15, around which the two pressure tapes 20 run closely over the surface of the sole cutting shoe, hold the material web to be cut both at the interface and before and after cutting at the sonite edges, so as to warp and curl the to prevent cut longitudinal strips. Transfer belts 27 directly adjoin the pressure belts 20, which likewise run around rollers 28 and hold the cut edges taken over onto the transport base. Such transfer belts are not only in connection with the bottom cutting devices or

the hold-down devices, but also on the outside of the needle chains 7 (FIG. 2) as needle straps 29, in order to pull the needle-edge of the web down from the needles downward when the needle chain rises to the front needle chain planet wheel 30 at the same time. The transfer belts are so long in the embodiment shown that they ensure the passage of the longitudinal strips onto the transport cloth 31 with the rotating roller 32 of the connected steaming and separating device 3.

A straightening device, as can be seen, for example, in FIG. 3, is expedient when several pieces of goods are connected next to one another in a web and drop or hollow meshes are available for scanning. The optical scanner 22 of the straightening device 21 is of a known type. It controls the falling stitches of the incoming material web by means of a light beam. A recess 34 is therefore provided in the cutting shoe. The scanner can also be attached to the support block 25 by means of a support arm 35 (FIG. 3). For its installation, on the other hand, it is still mounted on the support tube 36 arranged transversely above the clamping field, on which the straightening wheel 23 is also mounted by means of a linkage 37. This rear wheel is driven by a control motor 38 which responds to the pulses emitted by the scanner and which rotates the straightening wheel to a greater or lesser extent either in one direction or in the other direction. The straightening wheel can therefore be rotated on both sides about an axis of rotation 39 extending in the direction of movement of the material web. It is approximately vertical on the surface 40 of the cutting shoe underneath. For precise setup and above all for moving the straightening wheel, a support roller 43 of the straightening wheel linkage 37 is placed on a further support tube 42 in a freely movable manner. The Riohtrad can consist of a number of circumferential wheels arranged in a ring shape, which are radially aligned with the rotating sleeve 39 and are mounted in bearing cages and on one circumference circular axes are rotatable (not shown). The straightening wheel can also be equipped with a gripping or scraping belt in order to exert the necessary transverse thrusts on the web.

Instead of the straightening wheel shown, other straightening members can also be provided. Straightening rollers with counter-rotating gripping rings or steerable wheels can align the web in the same way.

If the transport cloth 8 of the clamping field is not longitudinally divided and therefore it is not possible to hold the cutting shoe from below or from the side between the transport cloth and the web, the circular knife axis 11 can serve as a supporting element for the cutting shoe. On both sides of the circular knife, support supports 80 are mounted on the axis, which support a support plate 81 that can be screwed onto the cutting shoe. The hold-down devices with their pressure bands 20 running around the rollers 17, 18 are held on the support block 25 by means of support arms 83, for example. Legs 84 of these support arms serve to support the roller axles and to keep them spaced (FIG. 3). The drive of the pressure tapes can be derived from a higher drive shaft (not shown).

If the existing support tubes 36, 42 or other hangers for the straightening device and / or the entire cutting device cross the entire span, several devices can be attached to one another. In this case, the cutting devices can be easily moved as required for precise adjustment to a certain cutting line or to a web width. The cutting and straightening device are then expediently manufactured as a structural unit. The entire unit is adjustable. It is expedient to swivel into a non-operational position when it is not needed.

Instead of a circular knife, a band knife or a stitch knife can also be used if the cutting shoe and / or the transport tube are designed accordingly. Finally, the drop stitches can also be separated in a way other than by cutting. A glow or heating rod can be used, for example, if the drop stitches consist of a corresponding thread for annealing or melting.

In another cutting device 50 according to FIGS. 4 and 5, the circular knife 12 is also lowered into the cutting shoe. However, this cutting shoe 51 is extended until it enters the steaming and separating device 3. It therefore offers a downholder 55, which is also extended, a resistant support. In this case, the cutting shoe and holding-down device bridge the connection point 56 of the deflection rollers 57 and 58 of the lower transport cloths 59 and 60 of the clamping field or the steam device. At the end of the elongated hold-down device there is a stripping spindle 62 which extends over the cutting edges of the longitudinal strips and with its inclined stripping rings (not visible) strips out the adjacent cutting edges in the direction of the cutting line. In order to increase the wrap angle and thus the effectiveness of this spindle, a deflection strip 63 is installed between the stripping spindle and the damping device, which must be overrun by the longitudinal strips. With 65 a drive shaft for the stripping spindle is designated. The hold-down device is driven by a wheel 66. As can be seen in particular in FIG. 5, the hold-down device is equipped with a needle or scraper belt 68 as a pressure belt. The approximately 3 cm to 4 cm wide scraper band is equipped on the side adjacent to the knife with a width of approximately 1 or 2 om with scratches or needles 69 which engage in the longitudinal strips and hold the edges thereof. So that the scraper belts 68 cannot be warped along their length, _f it en over rotating roll 70 with lateral guide flanges 71. Zwisohenführungen may additionally be present. With this design of the hold-down device, the cut longitudinal strips of a web of material relax only slightly and only assume the tension state with which they are to be damped at the inlet into the damping device.

Claims (11)

1. Method for equipping textile goods, in particular parts with a waistband for vests, pullovers or the like. Knitwear, which is assembled into a web in a cross-tensioned position of a steaming zone and separated again along the connecting seams, characterized in that the web stretched to a predetermined width in the transverse direction is still cut into longitudinal strips in the tensioning field and the longitudinal strip edges during the longitudinal cutting up to the inlet be held in the steaming zone to avoid curling. 2. Device for performing the method according to claim 1, characterized in that near the through end of a clamping field (1), the cutting devices (5, 50) for the web are arranged that on both sides of a cutting device a hold-down (15, 55) for the cutting edges the longitudinal strip is provided and that extensions of these hold-downs overlap a transport cloth (31, 60) of a damping and separating device. 3. Apparatus according to claim 2, characterized in that the hold-down device (15, 55) cooperate with a cutting shoe (10, 51) in which a cutting gap (13) is formed, in which the cutting edge one by one for transporting the web ( W) transverse axis of rotation (11) of rotating circular knife (12) is lowered. 4. Apparatus according to claim 2 or 3, characterized in that the hold-down devices are formed by rollers (17, 18 or 70) arranged one behind the other in the transport direction and endless pressure belts (20, 68) rotating around these rollers. 5. Device according to one of claims 2 to 4, characterized in that directly transfer belts (27) connect to the hold-down device (15). 6. Device according to one of claims 2 to 4, characterized in that the hold-down device (55) are extended to the damping device (3). 7. Device according to one of claims 2 to 6, characterized in that the pressure tapes (20, 70) of the hold-down device (15, 55) are equipped with scratches or needles at least over part of their width. 8. Device according to one of claims 2 to 7, characterized in that the cutting shoe (69) extends to the full length of the hold-down device (55). 9. Device according to one of claims 2 to 8, characterized in that a stripping spindle (62) is provided immediately before entering the damping device (3). 10. Device according to one of claims 2 to 9, characterized in that for guiding the web (W) through the tensioning field (1) and at the sole cutting device (5, 50) past lateral needle chains (7) are provided, which with their Engage the needles directed below into the edges of the material web, these needle chains rise at the end of the tensioning field and each needle chain on the inside has at least one needling or overlay lying on the needled material web and extending beyond the tensioning field guide belt (29) is assigned. 11. Device according to one of claims 2 to 10, characterized in that each cutting device (5, 50) has a straightening device (21) upstream of an optical scanner (22) and an aligner which is dependent on electrical pulses emitted by the scanner the underlying web exercises cross-strokes.

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