DE10140538A1 - Cosmetic or dermatological compositions useful for treating inflammatory skin conditions and dry skin comprise a Pongamia pinnata extract - Google Patents

Abstract

Cosmetic or dermatological compositions comprise an optionally freeze-dried aqueous-alcoholic extract of Pongamia pinnata or one or more substances present in such an extract.

Description

The present invention relates to the use of aqueous-alcoholic extracts Pongamia pinnata for the manufacture of cosmetic or dermatological preparations for the prophylaxis and treatment of inflammatory skin conditions and / or for skin protection for sensitive, determined dry skin.

The invention further relates to the use of aqueous-alcoholic extracts Pongamia pinnata and preparations containing these extracts for immune stimulation the skin, also advantageous for immune stimulation in the sense of treating the broken skin, especially for the treatment of wounds.

In addition, the invention relates to preparations with extremely low so-called "Stinging potential".

The skin, especially the epidermis, is in as the barrier organ of the human organism subject to particular external influences. After today Scientific understanding represents the skin as an immunological organ immunocompetent peripheral compartment has its own role in inductive, effective and regulative immune processes of the whole organism plays.

The epidermis is rich with nerves and nerve endings like Vater-Pacini lamellar bodies, Merkel-cell neurite complexes and free nerve endings for pain, cold, Sensation of heat and itching.

The problem of "sensitive skin" affects an increasing number of adults and children. With Sensitive skin is called a combination of different symptoms, such as hyper-reactive and intolerant skin. But atopic skin can also be subsumed under it. These skin conditions are often, but not entirely correctly, called "allergic" by those affected Skin. Although an allergic disease causes symptoms of sensitive skin the appearance of "sensitive skin" is not limited to allergy sufferers.

For people with sensitive, sensitive or vulnerable skin, using "stinging" (<engl.> "to sting" = injure, burn, pain) designated neurosensory Phenomenon can be observed. This "sensitive skin" differs fundamentally from "dry skin" with thickened and hardened horny layers.

Typical reactions of "stinging" to sensitive skin are redness, tension and burning the skin as well as itching.

The itching in atopic skin is to be regarded as a neurosensory phenomenon, as well Itching with skin diseases.

"Stinging" phenomena can be viewed as cosmetic disorders become. In contrast, severe itching, especially severe itching of the skin, can also be called a more serious dermatological disorder.

Typical associated with the terms "stinging" or "sensitive skin" disturbing neurosensory phenomena are reddening of the skin, tingling, tingling, tension and Burning skin and itching. You can by stimulating environmental conditions z. B. massage, surfactant, weather influences such as sun, cold, dryness, but also moist heat, heat radiation and UV radiation, e.g. B. the sun.

In "Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists" 28, pp. 197-209 (May 1977) P. J. Frosch and A. M. Kligman a method for estimating the "stinging potential" topically administered substances. As positive substances z. B. lactic acid and Pyruvic acid used. When measuring using this method, however, Amino acids, especially glycine, are determined to be neurosensory active (such substances are Called "Stinger").

According to previous knowledge, such a sensitivity towards entirely occurs certain substances individually different. This means a person who is in contact Experienced with a substance "stinging effects", it is highly likely with everyone experience further contact repeatedly. Contact with other "stingers" can just as well go without any reaction.

Many more or less sensitive people have even when using some Deodorant or antiperspirant preparations under erythematous Suffering from skin symptoms.

Erythematous skin symptoms also appear as side effects in certain Skin diseases or irregularities. For example, the typical rash the appearance of acne regularly more or less reddened.

It was therefore the object of the present invention, the disadvantages of the prior art Remedy technology.

In particular, active substances and preparations containing such active substances should cosmetic and dermatological treatment and / or prophylaxis of erythematous, inflammatory, allergic or autoimmune reactive symptoms, especially dermatoses, but also the appearance of the "stinging".

Furthermore, such active substances or preparations containing such active substances should be used Are made available, which for the immune stimulation of the skin, advantageously also for Immune stimulation in the sense of the wound healing promoting effect can be used can.

According to the invention, the shortcomings of the prior art are eliminated by cosmetic and / or dermatological preparations containing aqueous-alcoholic extracts and / or lyophyllized aqueous-alcoholic extracts from Pongamia pinnata.

In particular, the shortcomings of the prior art are eliminated by the Use of aqueous-alcoholic extracts from Pongamia pinnata, especially those from the Extracts derived from seeds, for the production of cosmetic or dermatological Preparations for the prophylaxis and treatment of inflammatory skin conditions - including that atopic eczema - and / or for skin protection in sensitive, determined dry skin.

When using cosmetic or topical dermatological preparations with a effective content of aqueous-alcoholic extracts from Pongamia pinnata, in particular Extracts derived from the seeds are an effective treatment, however also prophylaxis of inflammatory skin conditions - including atopic eczema - and / or possible for skin protection with sensitive, determined dry skin. Cosmetic or topical dermatological preparations with an effective content of these Extracts are also used surprisingly to calm sensitive or irritated skin.

Pongamia pinnata is assigned to the leguminosa family. It is a Evergreen tree up to 18 meters high. The leaves are oval, the bark smooth and of brown to gray-green color. The seeds have a reddish brown color and are of kidney-shaped. Pongamia pinnata grows in tropical parts of the world, especially in India and Australia. The seeds are rich in flavones and furanoflavones like pongamol, Pongol, Pinnatin, Glabrin and Isopongaflavon. There are also various Chalcones and fatty acids. The more mature seeds also contain greasy oil.

Aqueous / ethanolic extracts from the seeds of Pongamia pinnata have an antibacterial effect, antifungal, antiprotozoal, anthelmimetic, antiviral and anticancerogenic. The antibacterial Effect is the focus of popular use.

Preferably contain cosmetic or dermatological preparations according to the invention 0.01 to 20% by weight, in particular 0.02 to 10% by weight, very particularly 0.1 to 3% by weight Extract, based on the total composition of the preparations.

It is advantageous according to the invention to use individual and / or a combination of several in the extract containing compounds in cosmetic and / or dermatological invention To use preparations. This applies in particular to flavones and furanoflavones such as Pongamol, Pongol, Pinnatin, Glabrin and Isopongaflavon. This also applies to the chalets and Fatty acids.

The preparations according to the invention advantageously contain substances that UV radiation absorb in the UV-A and / or UV-B range, the total amount of filter substances z. B. 0.1 wt .-% to 30 wt .-%, preferably 0.5 to 20 wt .-%, in particular 1.0 to 15.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparations, is cosmetic To provide preparations that cover the hair or skin before the whole Protect the area of ultraviolet radiation. You can also use it as a sunscreen Serve hair or skin.

Advantageous UV-A filter substances in the sense of the present invention are Dibenzoylmethane derivatives, especially the 4- (tert-butyl) -4'-methoxydibenzoylmethane (CAS no. 70356-09-1), which is sold by Givaudan under the Parsol® 1789 brand and by Merck under the Trade name Eusolex® 9020 is sold.

Other advantageous UV-A filter substances are phenylene-1,4-bis (2-benzimidazyl) -3,3'- 5,5'-tetrasulfonic acid


and their salts, especially the corresponding sodium, potassium or triethanolammonium salts, in particular the phenylene-1,4-bis (2-benzimidazyl) -3,3'-5,5'-tetrasulfonic acid bis-sodium salt


with the INCI name bisimidazylate, which is available, for example, from Haarmann & Reimer under the trade name Neo Heliopan AP.

Also advantageous are the 1,4-di (2-oxo-10-sulfo-3-bornylidenemethyl) benzene and its salts (especially the corresponding 10-sulfato compounds, especially the corresponding sodium, potassium or triethanolammonium salt) , which is also called benzene-1,4-di (2-oxo-3-bornylidenemethyl-10-sulfonic acid) and is characterized by the following structure:

Advantageous UV filter substances in the sense of the present invention are furthermore so-called broadband filters, d. H. Filter substances that contain both UV-A and UV-B radiation absorb.

Advantageous broadband filters or UV-B filter substances are, for example, bis-resorcinyltriazine derivatives with the following structure:


where R ¹ , R ² and R ^{3 are} independently selected from the group of branched and unbranched alkyl groups having 1 to 10 carbon atoms or represent a single hydrogen atom. Particularly preferred are the 2,4-bis - {(4- (2-ethylhexyloxy) -2-hydroxy] phenyl} -6- (4-methoxyphenyl) -1,3,5-triazine (INCI: Aniso triazine ), which is available under the trade name Tinosorb® S from CIBA-Chemicals GmbH, and the 4,4 ', 4 "- (1,3,5-triazine-2,4,6-triyltriimino) -tris-benzoic acid- tris (2-ethylhexyl ester), synonym: 2,4,6-tris [anilino- (p-carbo-2'-ethyl-1'-hexyloxy)] - 1,3,5-triazine (INCI: octyl triazone) , which is sold by BASF Aktiengesellschaft under the trade name UVINUL® T 150.

Also other UV filter substances, which the structural motif


are advantageous UV filter substances for the purposes of the present invention, for example the s-triazine derivatives described in European patent application EP 570 838 A1, the chemical structure of which is given by the generic formula


is reproduced, whereby
R represents a branched or unbranched C ₁ -C ₁₈ alkyl radical, a C ₅ -C ₁₂ cycloalkyl radical, optionally substituted by one or more C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl groups,
X represents an oxygen atom or an NH group,
R _{1 is} a branched or unbranched C ₁ -C ₁₈ alkyl radical, a C ₅ -C ₁₂ cycloalkyl radical, optionally substituted with one or more C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl groups, or a hydrogen atom, an alkali metal atom, an ammonium group or a group of formula


means in which
A represents a branched or unbranched C ₁ -C ₁₈ alkyl radical, a C ₅ -C ₁₂ cycloalkyl or aryl radical, optionally substituted by one or more C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl groups,
R _{3 represents} a hydrogen atom or a methyl group,
n represents a number from 1 to 10,
R _{2 represents} a branched or unbranched C ₁ -C ₁₈ alkyl radical, a C ₅ -C ₁₂ cycloalkyl radical, optionally substituted with one or more C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl groups, when X represents the NH group, and
a branched or unbranched C ₁ -C ₁₈ alkyl radical, a C ₅ -C ₁₂ cycloalkyl radical, optionally substituted with one or more C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl groups, or a hydrogen atom, an alkali metal atom, an ammonium group or a group of the formula


means in which
A represents a branched or unbranched C ₁ -C ₁₈ alkyl radical, a C ₅ -C ₁₂ cycloalkyl or aryl radical, optionally substituted by one or more C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl groups,
R _{3 represents} a hydrogen atom or a methyl group,
n represents a number from 1 to 10,
when X represents an oxygen atom.

A particularly advantageous UV filter substance in the sense of the present invention is also an asymmetrically substituted s-triazine, the chemical structure of which is represented by the formula


is reproduced, which is also referred to below as dioctylbutylamidotriazon (INCI: dioctylbutamidotriazone) and is available under the trade name UVASORB HEB from Sigma 3 V.

The European patent application 775 698 also describes bis-resorcinyltriazine derivatives which are to be used advantageously and whose chemical structure is represented by the generic formula


is reproduced, wherein R ₁ , R ₂ and A _{1 represent a} wide variety of organic radicals.

Also advantageous in the sense of the present invention are the 2,4-bis - {[(4- (3-sulfonato) -2- hydroxypropyloxy) -2-hydroxy] phenyl} -6- (4-methoxyphenyl) -1,3,5-triazine sodium salt, the 2,4-bis - {[4- (3- (2-propyloxy) -2-hydroxy-propyloxy) -2-hydroxy] phenyl} -6- (4-methoxyphenyl) - 1,3,5-triazine, the 2,4-bis - {[4- (2-ethylhexyloxy) -2-hydroxy] phenyl} -6- [4- (2-methoxyethylcarboxyl) phenylamino] -1,3,5-triazine, the 2nd , 4-bis - {[4- (3- (2-propyloxy) -2-hydroxy-propyloxy) - 2-hydroxy] phenyl} -6- [4- (2-ethylcarboxyl) phenylamino] -1,3,5-triazine, the 2,4-bis - {[4- (2- ethyl-hexyloxy) -2-hydroxyj-phenyl} -6- (1-methyl-pyrrol-2-yl) -1,3,5-triazine, the 2,4-bis - {[4- tris (trimethylsiloxysilylpropyloxy) -2-hydroxy] phenyl} -6- (4-methoxyphenyl) -1,3,5-triazine, the 2,4-bis - {[4- (2 "-methylpropenyloxy) -2-hydroxy] phenyl} -6- (4-methoxyphenyl) -1,3,5-triazine and the 2,4-bis - {[4- (1 ', 1', 1 ', 3', 5 ', 5', 5'-heptamethylsiloxy-2 "-methyl-propyloxy) -2-hydroxy] phenyl- 6- (4-methoxyphenyl) -1,3,5-triazine.

An advantageous broadband filter in the sense of the present invention is 2,2'-methylene-bis- (6- (2H-benzotriazol-2-yl) -4- (1,1,3,3-tetramethylbutyl) phenol) [INCI : Bisoctyltriazole], which is characterized by the chemical structural formula


is identified and is available under the trade name Tinosorb® M from CIBA Chemical GmbH.

Another advantageous broadband filter for the purposes of the present invention is 2- (2H-benzotriazol-2-yl) -4-methyl-6- [2-methyl-3- [1,3,3,3-tetramethyl-1 - [( trimethylsilyl) oxy] disiloxanyl] propyl] phenol (CAS no .: 155633-54-8) with the INCI name Drometrizole Trisiloxane, which is characterized by the chemical structural formula


is marked.

• - 3-Benzylidencampher-Derivate, vorzugsweise 3-(4-Methylbenzyliden)campher, 3-Benzylidencampher;
• - 4-Aminobenzoesäure-Derivate, vorzugsweise 4-(Dimethylamino)-benzoesäure(2-ethylhexyl)ester, 4-(Dimethylamino)benzoesäureamylester;
• - 2,4,6-Trianilino-(p-carbo-2'-ethyl-1'-hexyloxy)-1,3,5-triazin;
• - Ester der Benzalmalonsäure, vorzugsweise 4-Methoxybenzalmalonsäuredi(2-ethylhexyl)- ester;
• - Ester der Zimtsäure, vorzugsweise 4-Methoxyzimtsäure(2-ethylhexyl)ester, 4-Methoxyzimtsäureisopentylester;
• - Derivate des Benzophenons, vorzugsweise 2-Hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenon, 2- Hydroxy-4-methoxy-4'-methylbenzophenon, 2,2'-Dihydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenon
• - sowie an Polymere gebundene UV-Filter.

The UV-B filters can be oil-soluble or water-soluble. Advantageous oil-soluble UV-B filter substances are e.g. B .:

• - 3-benzylidene camphor derivatives, preferably 3- (4-methylbenzylidene) camphor, 3-benzylidene camphor;
• - 4-aminobenzoic acid derivatives, preferably 4- (dimethylamino) benzoic acid (2-ethylhexyl) ester, 4- (dimethylamino) benzoic acid amyl ester;
• - 2,4,6-trianilino- (p-carbo-2'-ethyl-1'-hexyloxy) -1,3,5-triazine;
• Esters of benzalmalonic acid, preferably 4-methoxybenzalmalonic acid di (2-ethylhexyl) ester;
• - Esters of cinnamic acid, preferably 4-methoxycinnamic acid (2-ethylhexyl) ester, 4-methoxycinnamic acid isopentyl ester;
• - Derivatives of benzophenone, preferably 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxy-4'-methylbenzophenone, 2,2'-dihydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone
• - As well as UV filters bound to polymers.

• - Salze der 2-Phenylbenzimidazol-5-sulfonsäure, wie ihr Natrium-, Kalium- oder ihr Triethanolammonium-Salz, sowie die Sulfonsäure selbst;
• - Sulfonsäure-Derivate des 3-Benzylidencamphers, wie z. B. 4-(2-Oxo-3-bornylidenmethyl)benzolsulfonsäure, 2-Methyl-5-(2-oxo-3-bornylidenmethyl)sulfonsäure und deren Salze.

Advantageous water-soluble UV-B filter substances are e.g. B .:

• - Salts of 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid, such as its sodium, potassium or triethanolammonium salt, and the sulfonic acid itself;
• - Sulfonic acid derivatives of 3-benzylidene camphor, such as. B. 4- (2-oxo-3-bornylidene methyl) benzenesulfonic acid, 2-methyl-5- (2-oxo-3-bornylidene methyl) sulfonic acid and salts thereof.

Another light protection filter substance which can advantageously be used according to the invention is ethylhexyl-2-cyano-3,3-diphenylacrylate (octocrylene), which is available from BASF under the name Uvinul® N 539 and is distinguished by the following structure:

It can also be of considerable advantage to be polymer-bound or polymeric To use UV filter substances in preparations according to the present invention, in particular those as described in WO-A-92/20690.

Furthermore, it may be advantageous to add further UV-A and / or Incorporation of UV-B filters in cosmetic or dermatological preparations for example certain salicylic acid derivatives such as 4-isopropylbenzyl salicylate, 2-ethylhexyl salicylate (= Octyl salicylate), homomenthyl salicylate.

The list of UV filters mentioned, used in the sense of the present invention of course, should not be limiting.

It is advantageous according to the invention to adjust the concentration of UV filter in a range of 0.1 to 30% by weight, preferably 0.5 to 20% by weight, in particular 1.0 to 15% by weight choose.

It is particularly advantageous according to the invention, cosmetic or topical dermatological preparations with an effective content of aqueous-alcoholic extracts from Pongamia pinnata, especially the seed extracts, for cosmetic or use dermatological treatment or prophylaxis of undesirable skin conditions.

According to the invention, preparations containing the inventive Contain active ingredient combinations, usual antioxidants are used.

The antioxidants are advantageously selected from the group consisting of amino acids (e.g. glycine, histidine, tyrosine, tryptophan) and their derivatives, imidazoles (e.g. urocanic acid) and their derivatives, peptides such as D, L-carnosine, D- Carnosine, L-carnosine and their derivatives (e.g. anserine), carotenoids, carotenes (e.g. α-carotene, β-carotene, lycopene) and their derivatives, aurothioglucose, propylthiouracil and other thiols (e.g. thioredoxin , Glutathione, cysteine, cystine, cystamine and their glycosyl, N-acetyl, methyl, ethyl, propyl, amyl, butyl and lauryl, palmitoyl, oleyl, γ-linoleyl, cholesteryl and Glyceryl esters) as well as their salts, dilauryl thiodipropionate, distearyl thiodipropionate, thiodipropionic acid and their derivatives (esters, ethers, peptides, lipids, nucleotides, nucleosides and salts) as well as sulfoximine compounds (e.g. buthioninsulfoximines, homocysteine sulfoximine, buthionine sulfones, peptides, hexathinsine sulfones, pentane) in very low tolerable doses (e.g. pmol to µmol / kg), also (metal) chelators (e.g. B. α-hydroxy fatty acids, palmitic acid, phytic acid, lactoferrin), α-hydroxy acids (e.g. citric acid, lactic acid, malic acid), humic acid, bile acid, bile extracts, bilirubin, biliverdin, EDTA, EGTA and their derivatives, unsaturated fatty acids and their derivatives (e.g. γ-linolenic acid, linoleic acid, oleic acid), folic acid and its derivatives, alanine diacetic acid, flavonoids, polyphenols, catechins, vitamin C and derivatives (e.g. ascorbyl palmitate, Mg ascorbyl phosphate, ascorbyl acetate), tocopherols and derivatives (e.g. B. Vitamin E acetate), and coniferyl benzoate of benzoic resin, rutinic acid and its derivatives, ferulic acid and its derivatives, butylated hydroxytoluene, butylated hydroxyanisole, nordihydroguajak resinic acid, nordihydroguajaretic acid, trihydroxybutyrophenone, uric acid and its derivatives, zinc and its derivatives, mannose and its derivatives, zinc and mannose e.g. ZnO, ZnSO ₄ ) selenium and its derivatives (e.g. selenium methionine), stilbene and its derivatives (e.g. stilbene oxide, trans-stilbene oxide) and the derivatives suitable according to the invention (salts, esters, ethers, sugars, nucleotides, nucleosides, peptides and lipids) of these active substances.

The amount of antioxidants (one or more compounds) in the preparations is preferably 0.001 to 30% by weight, particularly preferably 0.05-20% by weight, in particular 1-10 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the preparation.

Prophylaxis or cosmetic or dermatological treatment with the cosmetic or topical dermatological preparations with an effective content of Extracts from Pongamia pinnata, in particular seed extracts, are carried out in the usual way, in such a way that the cosmetic or topical dermatological preparations is applied to the affected skin with an effective extract content.

The extracts can advantageously be incorporated into conventional cosmetic and dermatological preparations, which can be in various forms. So you can z. B. a solution, an emulsion of the water-in-oil (W / O) or oil-in-water type (O / W), or a multiple emulsion, for example of the water-in-oil-in-water type (W / O / W) or oil-in-water-in-oil (O / W / O), a hydrodispersion or lipodispersion Gel, a solid stick or an aerosol.

Emulsions according to the invention in the sense of the present invention, for. B. in the form of a Cream, a lotion, a cosmetic milk are advantageous and contain z. B. fats, oils, Waxes and / or other fat bodies, as well as water and one or more emulsifiers, as are commonly used for such a type of formulation.

It is also possible and advantageous for the purposes of the present invention to extract the extracts Pongamia pinnata in aqueous systems or surfactant preparations for cleaning the skin and insert the hair.

It is of course known to the person skilled in the art that sophisticated cosmetic Compositions are usually not conceivable without the usual auxiliaries and additives. The Cosmetic preparations according to the invention can therefore contain cosmetic auxiliaries, such as they are usually used in such preparations, e.g. B. preservatives, Bactericides, deodorising substances, antiperspirants, insect repellents, Vitamins, anti-foaming agents, dyes, pigments with coloring Effect, thickener, softening substances, moisturizing and / or moisturizing substances, fats, oils, waxes or other usual components of a cosmetic formulation such as alcohols, polyols, polymers, foam stabilizers, electrolytes, organic solvents or silicone derivatives.

Mutatis mutandis, corresponding requirements apply to the formulation of medical Preparations.

Contain medical topical compositions in the sense of the present invention usually one or more drugs in effective concentration. The simplicity for the sake of a clean distinction between cosmetic and medical Application and corresponding products to the legal requirements of Federal Republic of Germany (e.g. cosmetics regulation, food and Drugs Act).

Cosmetic and dermatological preparations according to the invention advantageously also contain inorganic pigments based on metal oxides and / or other metal compounds which are sparingly soluble or insoluble in water, in particular the oxides of titanium (TiO ₂ ), zinc (ZnO), iron (e.g. Fe ₂ O ₃ ), Zirconium (ZrO ₂ ), silicon (SiO ₂ ), manganese (e.g. MnO), aluminum (Al ₂ O ₃ ), cerium (e.g. Ce ₂ O ₃ ), mixed oxides of the corresponding metals and mixtures such oxides. Pigments based on TiO _{2 are} particularly preferred.

It is particularly advantageous in the sense of the present invention, although not mandatory, when the inorganic pigments are in hydrophobic form, i.e. that is, they are superficial are treated to be water-repellent. This surface treatment can consist in that the pigments according to methods known per se with a thin hydrophobic layer be provided.

One such method is, for example, that the hydrophobic surface layer after a reaction

n TiO ₂ + m (RO) ₃ Si-R '→ n TiO ₂ (surface)

is produced. n and m are stoichiometric parameters to be used at will, R and R 'are the desired organic radicals. For example, hydrophobized pigments shown in analogy to DE-OS 33 14 742 are advantageous.

Advantageous TiO ₂ pigments are available, for example, under the trade names MT 100 T from TAYCA, M 160 from Kemira and T 805 from Degussa.

Preparations according to the invention can, especially if crystalline or microcrystalline Solids, for example inorganic micropigments in the inventive Preparations are to be incorporated, including anionic, nonionic and / or amphoteric Contain surfactants. Surfactants are amphiphilic substances that contain organic, non-polar substances Can dissolve water.

• - anionische Tenside,
• - kationische Tenside,
• - amphotere Tenside und
• - nichtionische Tenside.

The hydrophilic parts of a surfactant molecule are mostly polar functional groups, for example -COO ^- , -OSO ₃ ^2- , -SO ₃ ^- , while the hydrophobic parts generally represent non-polar hydrocarbon radicals. Surfactants are generally classified according to the type and charge of the hydrophilic part of the molecule. There are four groups:

• - anionic surfactants,
• - cationic surfactants,
• - amphoteric surfactants and
• - nonionic surfactants.

Anionic surfactants generally have carboxylate, sulfate or sulfonate groups as functional groups. In an aqueous solution they form negatively charged organic ions in an acidic or neutral environment. Cationic surfactants are characterized almost exclusively by the presence of a quaternary ammonium group. In aqueous solution they form positively charged organic ions in an acidic or neutral environment. Amphoteric surfactants contain both anionic and cationic groups and therefore behave like anionic or cationic surfactants in aqueous solution depending on the pH. They have a positive charge in a strongly acidic environment and a negative charge in an alkaline environment. In the neutral pH range, however, they are zwitterionic, as the following example should illustrate:

RNH ₂ ⁺ CH ₂ CH ₂ COOH X ^- (at pH = 2); X ^- = any anion, e.g. B. Cl ^- ;

RNH ₂ ⁺ CH ₂ CH ₂ COO ^- (at pH = 7);

RNHCH ₂ CH ₂ COO ^- B ⁺ (at pH = 12); B ⁺ = any cation, e.g. B. Na ⁺ .

Polyether chains are typical of non-ionic surfactants. Non-ionic surfactants form in aqueous medium no ions.

A. Anionic surfactants

• 1. Acylglutamate, beispielsweise Natriumacylglutamat, Di-TEA-palmitoylaspartat und Natrium Caprylic/Capric Glutamat,
• 2. Acylpeptide, beispielsweise Palmitoyl-hydrolysiertes Milchprotein, Natrium Cocoylhydrolysiertes Soja Protein und Natrium-/Kalium Cocoylhydrolysiertes Kollagen,
• 3. Sarcosinate, beispielsweise Myristoyl Sarcosin, TEA-lauroyl Sarcosinat, Natriumlauroylsarcosinat und Natriumcocoylsarkosinat,
• 4. Taurate, beispielsweise Natriumlauroyltaurat und Natriummethylcocoyltaurat,
• 5. Acyl/Lactylate, Lauroyllactylat, Caproyllactylat
• 6. Alaninate

Carbonsäuren und Derivate, wie

• 1. Carbonsäuren, beispielsweise Laurinsäure, Aluminiumstearat, Magnesiumalkanolat und Zinkundecylenat,
• 2. Ester-Carbonsäuren, beispielsweise Calciumstearoyllactylat, Laureth-6 Citrat und Natrium PEG-4 Lauramidcarboxylat,
• 3. Ether-Carbonsäuren, beispielsweise Natriumlaureth-13 Carboxylat und Natrium PEG-6 Cocamide Carboxylat,

Phosphorsäureester und Salze, wie beispielsweise DEA-Oleth-10-Phosphat und Dilaureth-4 Phosphat,
Sulfonsäuren und Salze, wie

• 1. Acyl-isethionate, z. B. Natrium-/Ammoniumcocoyl-isethionat,
• 2. Alkylarylsulfonate,
• 3. Alkylsulfonate, beispielsweise Natriumcocosmonoglyceridsulfat, Natrium C_12-14 Olefinsulfonat, Natriumlaurylsulfoacetat und Magnesium PEG-3 Cocamidsulfat,
• 4. Sulfosuccinate, beispielsweise Dioctylnatriumsulfosuccinat, Dinatriumlaurethsulfosuccinat, Dinatriumlaurylsulfosuccinat und Dinatriumundecylenamido MEA-Sulfosuccinat

sowie
Schwefelsäureester, wie

• 1. Alkylethersulfat, beispielsweise Natrium-, Ammonium-, Magnesium-, MIPA-, TIPA-Laurethsulfat, Natriummyrethsulfat und Natrium C_12-13 Parethsulfat,
• 2. Alkylsulfate, beispielsweise Natrium-, Ammonium- und TEA-Laurylsulfat.

Anionic surfactants to be used advantageously
Acylamino acids (and their salts), such as

• 1. acylglutamates, for example sodium acylglutamate, di-TEA-palmitoylaspartate and sodium caprylic / capric glutamate,
• 2. acyl peptides, for example palmitoyl-hydrolyzed milk protein, sodium cocoyl-hydrolyzed soy protein and sodium / potassium cocoyl-hydrolyzed collagen,
• 3. sarcosinates, for example myristoyl sarcosin, TEA lauroyl sarcosinate, sodium lauroyl sarcosinate and sodium cocoyl sarcosinate,
• 4. taurates, for example sodium lauroyl taurate and sodium methyl cocoyl taurate,
• 5. Acyl / lactylates, lauroyl lactylate, caproyl lactylate
• 6. Alaninate

Carboxylic acids and derivatives, such as

• 1. carboxylic acids, for example lauric acid, aluminum stearate, magnesium alkanolate and zinc undecylenate,
• 2. ester carboxylic acids, for example calcium stearoyl lactylate, laureth-6 citrate and sodium PEG-4 lauramide carboxylate,
• 3. ether carboxylic acids, for example sodium laureth-13 carboxylate and sodium PEG-6 cocamide carboxylate,

Phosphoric acid esters and salts, such as DEA-oleth-10-phosphate and dilaureth-4-phosphate,
Sulfonic acids and salts such as

• 1. acyl isethionates, e.g. B. sodium / ammonium cocoyl isethionate,
• 2. alkylarylsulfonates,
• 3. alkyl sulfonates, for example sodium coconut monoglyceride sulfate, sodium C _12-14 olefin sulfonate, sodium lauryl sulfoacetate and magnesium PEG-3 cocamide sulfate,
• 4. Sulfosuccinates, for example dioctyl sodium sulfosuccinate, disodium laureth sulfosuccinate, disodium lauryl sulfosuccinate and disodium undecylenamido MEA sulfosuccinate

such as
Sulfuric acid esters, such as

• 1. alkyl ether sulfate, for example sodium, ammonium, magnesium, MIPA, TIPA laureth sulfate, sodium myreth sulfate and sodium C _12-13 pareth sulfate,
• 2. Alkyl sulfates, for example sodium, ammonium and TEA lauryl sulfate.

B. Cationic surfactants

• 1. Alkylamine,
• 2. Alkylimidazole,
• 3. Ethoxylierte Amine und
• 4. Quaternäre Tenside.
• 5. Esterquats.

Cationic surfactants to be used advantageously

• 1. alkylamines,
• 2. alkylimidazoles,
• 3. Ethoxylated amines and
• 4. Quaternary surfactants.
• 5. Esterquats.

Quaternary surfactants contain at least one N atom that has 4 alkyl or aryl groups is covalently linked. Regardless of the pH value, this leads to a positive charge. Alkyl betaine, alkyl amidopropyl betaine and alkyl amidopropyl hydroxysulfain are advantageous. The cationic surfactants used according to the invention can furthermore preferably be selected are from the group of quaternary ammonium compounds, in particular Benzyltrialkylammoniumchloride or bromide, such as Benzyldimethylstearylammoniumchlorid, further alkyltrialkylammonium salts, for example Cetyltrimethylammonium chloride or bromide, alkyldimethylhydroxyethylammonium chloride or bromides, dialkyldimethylammonium chlorides or bromides, Alkylamidethyltrimethylammonium ether sulfates, alkylpyridinium salts, for example lauryl or cetylpyrimidinium chloride, Imidazoline derivatives and compounds with a cationic character such as amine oxides, for example alkyldimethylamine oxides or alkylaminoethyldimethylamine oxides. Are advantageous in particular to use cetyltrimethylammonium salts.

C. Amphoteric surfactants

• 1. Acyl-/dialkylethylendiamin, beispielsweise Natriumacylamphoacetat, Dinatriumacylamphodipropionat, Dinatriumalkylamphodiacetat, Natriumacylamphohydroxypropylsulfonat, Dinatriumacylamphodiacetat und Natriumacylamphopropionat,
• 2. N-Alkylaminosäuren, beispielsweise Aminopropylalkylglutamid, Alkylaminopropionsäure, Natriumalkylimidodipropionat und Lauroamphocarboxyglycinat.

Amphoteric surfactants to be used advantageously

• 1. acyl- / dialkylethylenediamine, for example sodium acylamphoacetate, disodium acylamphodipropionate, disodium alkylamphodiacetate, sodium acylamphohydroxypropylsulfonate, disodium acylamphodiacetate and sodium acylamphopropionate,
• 2. N-alkylamino acids, for example aminopropylalkylglutamide, alkylaminopropionic acid, sodium alkylimidodipropionate and lauroamphocarboxyglycinate.

D. Non-ionic surfactants

• 1. Alkohole,
• 2. Alkanolamide, wie Cocamide MEA/ DEA/ MIPA,
• 3. Aminoxide, wie Cocoamidopropylaminoxid,
• 4. Ester, die durch Veresterung von Carbonsäuren mit Ethylenoxid, Glycerin, Sorbitan oder anderen Alkoholen entstehen,
  • -
• 5. Ether, beispielsweise ethoxylierte/propoxylierte Alkohole, ethoxylierte/propoxylierte Ester, ethoxylierte/propoxylierte Glycerinester, ethoxylierte/propoxylierte Cholesterine, ethoxylierte/propoxylierte Triglyceridester, ethoxyliertes propoxyliertes Lanolin, ethoxylierte/propoxylierte Polysiloxane, propoxylierte POE-Ether und Alkylpolyglycoside wie Laurylglucosid, Decylglycosid und Cocoglycosid.
• 6. Sucroseester, -Ether
• 7. Polyglycerinester, Diglycerinester, Monoglycerinester
• 8. Methylglucosester, Ester von Hydroxysäuren.

Non-ionic surfactants to be used advantageously

• 1. alcohols,
• 2. alkanolamides, such as cocamides MEA / DEA / MIPA,
• 3. amine oxides, such as cocoamidopropylamine oxide,
• 4. esters which are formed by esterification of carboxylic acids with ethylene oxide, glycerol, sorbitan or other alcohols,
  • -
• 5. ethers, for example ethoxylated / propoxylated alcohols, ethoxylated / propoxylated esters, ethoxylated / propoxylated glycerol esters, ethoxylated / propoxylated cholesterols, ethoxylated / propoxylated triglyceride esters, ethoxylated propoxylated lanolin, ethoxylated / propoxylated polysiloxanes, propoxylated POE ethers and alkylpolyglycosides such as lauryl polyglycosides cocoglycoside.
• 6. sucrose esters, ether
• 7. Polyglycerol esters, diglycerol esters, monoglycerol esters
• 8. Methyl glucose esters, esters of hydroxy acids.

It is also advantageous to use a combination of anionic and / or amphoteric surfactants with one or more nonionic surfactants.

The surface-active substance can have a concentration of between 1 and 95% by weight the preparations according to the invention are present, based on the total weight of the Preparations.

• - Mineralöle, Mineralwachse
• - Öle, wie Triglyceride der Caprin- oder der Caprylsäure, ferner natürliche Öle wie z. B. Rizinusöl;
• - Fette, Wachse und andere natürliche und synthetische Fettkörper, vorzugsweise Ester von Fettsäuren mit Alkoholen niedriger C-Zahl, z. B. mit Isopropanol, Propylenglykol oder Glycerin, oder Ester von Fettalkoholen mit Alkansäuren niedriger C-Zahl oder mit Fettsäuren;
• - Alkylbenzoate;
• - Silikonöle wie Dimethylpolysiloxane, Diethylpolysiloxane, Diphenylpolysiloxane sowie Mischformen daraus.

The lipid phase of the cosmetic or dermatological emulsions according to the invention can advantageously be selected from the following group of substances:

• - mineral oils, mineral waxes
• - Oils, such as triglycerides of capric or caprylic acid, as well as natural oils such. B. castor oil;
• - Fats, waxes and other natural and synthetic fat bodies, preferably esters of fatty acids with alcohols of low C number, e.g. B. with isopropanol, propylene glycol or glycerol, or esters of fatty alcohols with low C number alkanoic acids or with fatty acids;
• - alkyl benzoates;
• - Silicone oils such as dimethylpolysiloxanes, diethylpolysiloxanes, diphenylpolysiloxanes and mixed forms thereof.

The oil phase of the emulsions of the present invention is advantageously selected from the Group of esters from saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids with a chain length of 3 to 30 carbon atoms and saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols with a chain length of 3 to 30 C atoms, from the group of esters of aromatic carboxylic acids and saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols of a chain length from 3 to 30 carbon atoms. Such ester oils can then advantageously be chosen from the Group isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate, isopropyl oleate, n-butyl stearate, n-hexyl laurate, n-decyl oleate, isooctyl stearate, isononyl stearate, isononyl isononanoate, 2- Ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl laurate, 2-hexyldecyl stearate, 2-octyldodecyl palmitate, Oleyl oleate, Oleylerucat, Erucyloleat, Erucylerucat as well as synthetic, semi-synthetic and natural mixtures of such esters, e.g. B. Jojoba oil.

Furthermore, the oil phase can advantageously be selected from the group of branched and unbranched hydrocarbons and waxes, silicone oils, dialkyl ethers, the group the saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched alcohols, and the Fatty acid triglycerides, specifically the triglycerol esters of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids with a chain length of 8 to 24, especially 12-18 carbon atoms. The fatty acid triglycerides can be advantageous, for example are selected from the group of synthetic, semi-synthetic and natural oils, e.g. B. Olive oil, sunflower oil, soybean oil, peanut oil, rapeseed oil, almond oil, palm oil, coconut oil, palm kernel oil and the like.

Any mixtures of such oil and wax components are also advantageous in the sense to use the present invention. It may also be advantageous if Waxes, for example cetyl palmitate, as the sole lipid component of the oil phase use.

The oil phase is advantageously selected from the group 2-ethylhexyl isostearate, octyldodecanol, isotridecylisononanoate, isoeicosane, 2-ethylhexyl cocoate, C _12-15 alkyl benzoate, caprylic capric acid triglyceride, dicaprylyl ether.

Particularly advantageous are mixtures of C _12-15 -alkyl benzoate and 2-ethylhexyl isostearate, mixtures of C _12-15 -alkyl benzoate and isotridecyl isononanoate and mixtures of C _12-15 - benzoate, 2-ethylhexyl isostearate and isotridecyl isononanoate.

Of the hydrocarbons, paraffin oil, squalane and squalene are advantageous in the sense of to use the present invention.

The oil phase can advantageously also have a content of cyclic or linear silicone oils or consist entirely of such oils, although it is preferred to use an additional content of other oil phase components in addition to the silicone oil or the silicone oils. Such silicones or silicone oils can be present as monomers, which are generally characterized by structural elements, as follows:

Linear silicones with a plurality of siloxy units which can advantageously be used according to the invention are generally characterized by structural elements as follows:


wherein the silicon atoms can be substituted with the same or different alkyl radicals and / or aryl radicals, which are generally represented here by the radicals R ₁ -R ₄ (to say that the number of different radicals is not necessarily limited to up to 4). m can assume values of 2-200,000.

Cyclic silicones to be used advantageously according to the invention are generally characterized by structural elements as follows


wherein the silicon atoms can be substituted with the same or different alkyl radicals and / or aryl radicals, which are generally represented here by the radicals R ₁ -R ₄ (to say that the number of different radicals is not necessarily limited to up to 4). n can take values from 3/2 to 20. Broken values for n take into account that there may be odd numbers of siloxyl groups in the cycle.

Cyclomethicone (eg decamethylcyclopentasiloxane) is advantageous as according to the invention using silicone oil. But other silicone oils are also advantageous in the sense of to use the present invention, for example undecamethylcyclotrisiloxane, Polydimethylsiloxane, poly (methylphenylsiloxane), cetyldimethicone, behenoxydimethicone.

Mixtures of cyclomethicone and isotridecyl isononanoate and are also advantageous those made from cyclomethicone and 2-ethylhexyl isostearate.

However, it is also advantageous to use silicone oils of a constitution similar to that above to select designated compounds whose organic side chains are derivatized, for example are polyethoxylated and / or polypropoxylated. These include, for example Polysiloxane polyalkyl polyether copolymers such as the cetyl dimethicone copolyol, the (cetyl dimethicone Copolyol (and) polyglyceryl-4-isostearate (and) hexyl laurate).

Mixtures of cyclomethicone and isotridecyl isononanoate are also particularly advantageous. from cyclomethicone and 2-ethylhexyl isostearate.

The aqueous phase of the preparations according to the invention optionally advantageously contains Alcohols, diols or polyols of low C number, and their ethers, preferably ethanol, Isopropanol, propylene glycol, glycerin, ethylene glycol, ethylene glycol monoethyl or monobutyl ether, propylene glycol monomethyl, monoethyl or monobutyl ether, Diethylene glycol monomethyl or monoethyl ether and analog products, furthermore lower alcohols C number, e.g. As ethanol, isopropanol, 1,2-propanediol, glycerol and in particular one or several thickeners, which one or which can advantageously be chosen from the Silicon dioxide group, aluminum silicates.

Preparations according to the invention which are present as emulsions contain in particular advantageously one or more hydrocolloids. These hydrocolloids can advantageously be chosen are from the group of gums, polysaccharides, cellulose derivatives, layered silicates, Polyacrylates and / or other polymers.

Preparations according to the invention which are present as hydrogels contain one or more Hydrocolloids. These hydrocolloids can advantageously be selected from the aforementioned group become.

Gums include plant or tree sap that harden in the air and resins form or extracts from aquatic plants. This group can be advantageous in the sense of Gum arabic, carob flour, Tragacanth, Karaya, Guar Gum, Pectin, Gellan Gum, Carrageenan, Agar, Algine, Chondrus, xanthan gum.

Another advantage is the use of derivatized gums such. B. hydroxypropyl Guar (Jaguar® HP 8).

Among the polysaccharides and derivatives are e.g. B. hyaluronic acid, chitin and Chitosan, chondroitin sulfates, starch and starch derivatives.

Among the cellulose derivatives are e.g. B. methyl cellulose, carboxymethyl cellulose, Hydroxyethyl cellulose, hydroxypropyl methyl cellulose.

Layered silicates contain naturally occurring and synthetic clays such as B. montmorillonite, bentonite, hectorite, laponite, magnesium aluminum silicates such as Veegum®. These can be used as such or in a modified form such as. B. Stearylalkonium hektorite.

Furthermore, silica gels can also advantageously be used.

Among the polyacrylates are e.g. B. Carbopol types from Goodrich (Carbopol 980, 981, 1382, 5984, 2984, EDT 2001 or Pemulen TR2).

Among the polymers are e.g. B. polyacrylamides (Seppigel 305), polyvinyl alcohols, PVP, PVP / VA copolymers, polyglycols.

Preparations according to the invention as emulsions contain one or several emulsifiers. These emulsifiers can advantageously be selected from the group of nonionic, anionic, cationic or amphoteric emulsifiers.

• a) Partialfettsäureester und Fettsäureester mehrwertiger Alkohole und deren ethoxylierte Derivate (z. B. Glycerylmonostearate, Sorbitanstearate, Glycerylstearylcitrate, Sucrosestearate)
• b) ethoxylierte Fettalkohole und Fettsäuren
• c) ethoxilierte Fettamine, Fettsäureamide, Fettsäurealkanolamide
• d) Alkylphenolpolyglycolether (z. B. Triton X)

Among the nonionic emulsifiers are

• a) Partial fatty acid esters and fatty acid esters of polyhydric alcohols and their ethoxylated derivatives (e.g. glyceryl monostearates, sorbitan stearates, glyceryl stearyl citrates, sucrose stearates)
• b) ethoxylated fatty alcohols and fatty acids
• c) ethoxylated fatty amines, fatty acid amides, fatty acid alkanolamides
• d) alkylphenol polyglycol ether (e.g. Triton X)

• a) Seifen (z. B. Natriumstearat)
• b) Fettalkoholsulfate
• c) Mono-, Di- und Trialkylphosphosäureester und deren Ethoxylate

Among the anionic emulsifiers are

• a) soaps (e.g. sodium stearate)
• b) fatty alcohol sulfates
• c) mono-, di- and trialkylphosphonic acid esters and their ethoxylates

• a) quaternäre Ammoniumverbindungen mit einem langkettigen aliphatischen Rest z. B. Distearyldimonium Chloride

Among the cationic emulsifiers are

• a) quaternary ammonium compounds with a long-chain aliphatic radical z. B. Distearyldimonium Chloride

• a) Alkylamininoalkancarbonsäuren
• b) Betaine, Sulfobetaine
• c) Imidazolinderivate

Among the amphoteric emulsifiers are

• a) Alkylamininoalkane carboxylic acids
• b) betaines, sulfobetaines
• c) Imidazoline derivatives

There are also naturally occurring emulsifiers, including beeswax, wool wax, Lecithin and sterols belong to it.

• - der Fettalkoholethoxylate
• - der ethoxylierten Wollwachsalkohole,
• - der Polyethylenglycolether der allgemeinen Formel R-O-(-CH₂-CH₂-O-)_n-R',
• - der Fettsäureethoxylate der allgemeinen Formel R-COO-CH₂-CH₂-O-)_n-H,
• - der veretherten Fettsäureethoxylate der allgemeinen Formel R-COO-(-CH₂-CH₂-O-)_n-R',
• - der veresterten Fettsäureethoxylate der allgemeinen Formel R-COO-(-CH₂-CH₂-O-)_n-C(O)-R',
• - der Polyethylenglycolglycerinfettsäureester
• - der ethoxylierten Sorbitanester
• - der Cholesterinethoxylate
• - der ethoxylierten Triglyceride
• - der Alkylethercarbonsäuren der allgemeinen Formel R-O-(-CH₂-CH₂-O-)_n-CH₂-COOH nd n eine Zahl von 5 bis 30 darstellen,
• - der Polyoxyethylensorbitolfettsäureester,
• - der Alkylethersulfate der allgemeinen Formel R-O-(-CH₂-CH₂-O-)_n-SO₃-H
• - der Fettalkoholpropoxylate der allgemeinen Formel R-O-(-CH₂-CH(CH₃)-O-)_n-H,
• - der Polypropylenglycolether der allgemeinen Formel R-O-(-CH₂-CH(CH₃)-O-)_n-R',
• - der propoxylierten Wollwachsalkohole,
• - der veretherten Fettsäurepropoxylate R-COO-(-CH₂-CH(CH₃)-O-)_n-R',
• - der veresterten Fettsäurepropoxylate der allgemeinen Formel R-COO-(-CH₂-CH(CH₃)-O-)_n-C(O)-R',
• - der Fettsäurepropoxylate der allgemeinen Formel R-COO-(-CH₂-CH(CH₃)-O-)_n-H,
• - der Polypropylenglycolglycerinfettsäureester
• - der propoxylierten Sorbitanester
• - der Cholesterinpropoxylate
• - der propoxylierten Triglyceride
• - der Alkylethercarbonsäuren der allgemeinen Formel R-O-(-CH₂-CH(CH₃)O-)_n-CH₂-COOH
• - der Alkylethersulfate bzw. die diesen Sulfaten zugrundeliegenden Säuren der allgemeinen Formel R-O-(-CH₂-CH(CH₃)-O-)_n-SO₃-H
• - der Fettalkoholethoxylate/propoxylate der allgemeinen Formel R-O-X_n-Y_m-H,
• - der Polypropylenglycolether der allgemeinen Formel R-O-X_n-Y_m-R',
• - der veretherten Fettsäurepropoxylate der allgemeinen Formel R-COO-X_n-Y_m-R',
• - der Fettsäureethoxylate/propoxylate der allgemeinen Formel R-COO-X_n-X_m-H.

O / W emulsifiers can, for example, advantageously be selected from the group of polyethoxylated or polypropoxylated or polyethoxylated and polypropoxylated products, e.g. B .:

• - The fatty alcohol ethoxylates
• - the ethoxylated wool wax alcohols,
• the polyethylene glycol ether of the general formula RO - (- CH ₂ -CH ₂ -O-) _n -R ',
• the fatty acid ethoxylates of the general formula R-COO-CH ₂ -CH ₂ -O-) _n -H,
• the etherified fatty acid ethoxylates of the general formula R-COO - (- CH ₂ -CH ₂ -O-) _n -R ',
• the esterified fatty acid ethoxylates of the general formula R-COO - (- CH ₂ -CH ₂ -O-) _n -C (O) -R ',
• - The polyethylene glycol glycerol fatty acid ester
• - The ethoxylated sorbitan esters
• - the cholesterol ethoxylates
• - The ethoxylated triglycerides
• the alkyl ether carboxylic acids of the general formula RO - (- CH ₂ -CH ₂ -O-) _n -CH ₂ -COOH and n represent a number from 5 to 30,
• - the polyoxyethylene sorbitol fatty acid ester,
• - The alkyl ether sulfates of the general formula RO - (- CH ₂ -CH ₂ -O-) _n -SO ₃ -H
• the fatty alcohol propoxylates of the general formula RO - (- CH ₂ -CH (CH ₃ ) -O-) _n -H,
• the polypropylene glycol ether of the general formula RO - (- CH ₂ -CH (CH ₃ ) -O-) _n -R ',
• - the propoxylated wool wax alcohols,
• the etherified fatty acid propoxylates R-COO - (- CH ₂ -CH (CH ₃ ) -O-) _n -R ',
• the esterified fatty acid propoxylates of the general formula R-COO - (- CH ₂ -CH (CH ₃ ) -O-) _n -C (O) -R ',
• the fatty acid propoxylates of the general formula R-COO - (- CH ₂ -CH (CH ₃ ) -O-) _n -H,
• - the polypropylene glycol glycerol fatty acid ester
• - The propoxylated sorbitan esters
• - the cholesterol propoxylates
• - the propoxylated triglycerides
• - The alkyl ether carboxylic acids of the general formula RO - (- CH ₂ -CH (CH ₃ ) O-) _n -CH ₂ -COOH
• - The alkyl ether sulfates or the acids on which these sulfates are based, of the general formula RO - (- CH ₂ -CH (CH ₃ ) -O-) _n -SO ₃ -H
• the fatty alcohol ethoxylates / propoxylates of the general formula ROX _n -Y _m -H,
• the polypropylene glycol ether of the general formula ROX _n -Y _m -R ',
• the etherified fatty acid propoxylates of the general formula R-COO-X _n -Y _m -R ',
• - The fatty acid ethoxylates / propoxylates of the general formula R-COO-X _n -X _m -H.

According to the invention, the polyethoxylated or polypropoxylated or polyethoxylated and polypropoxylated O / W emulsifiers selected from the group of substances with HLB values of 11-18, particularly advantageous with HLB values of 14.5-15.5, provided the O / W emulsifiers are saturated radicals R and R ' exhibit. Do the O / W emulsifiers have unsaturated radicals R and / or R ', or are Isoalkyl derivatives before, the preferred HLB value of such emulsifiers can also be lower or lie above.

It is advantageous to choose the fatty alcohol ethoxylates from the group of the ethoxylated stearyl alcohols, cetyl alcohols, cetylstearyl alcohols (cetearyl alcohols). The following are particularly preferred:
Polyethylene glycol (13) stearyl ether (steareth-13), polyethylene glycol (14) stearyl ether (steareth-14), polyethylene glycol (15) stearyl ether (steareth-15), polyethylene glycol (16) stearyl ether (steareth-16), polyethylene glycol (17) stearyl ether ( Steareth-17), polyethylene glycol (18) stearyl ether (Steareth-18), polyethylene glycol (19) stearyl ether (Steareth-19), polyethylene glycol (20) stearyl ether (Steareth-20),
Polyethylene glycol (12) isostearyl ether (isosteareth-12), polyethylene glycol (13) isostearyl ether (isosteareth-13), polyethylene glycol (14) isostearyl ether (isosteareth-14), polyethylene glycol (15) isostearyl ether (isosteareth-15), polyethylene glycol (16) isostearyl ether ( Isosteareth-16), polyethylene glycol (17) isostearyl ether (isosteareth-17), polyethylene glycol (18) isostearyl ether (isosteareth-18), polyethylene glycol (19) isostearyl ether (isosteareth-19), polyethylene glycol (20) isostearyl ether (isosteareth-20),
Polyethylene glycol (13) cetyl ether (ceteth-13), polyethylene glycol (14) cetyl ether (ceteth-14), polyethylene glycol (15) cetyl ether (ceteth-15), polyethylene glycol (16) cetyl ether (ceteth-16), polyethylene glycol (17) cetyl ether ( Ceteth-17), polyethylene glycol (18) cetyl ether (ceteth-18), polyethylene glycol (19) cetyl ether (ceteth-19), polyethylene glycol (20) cetyl ether (ceteth-20),
Polyethylene glycol (13) isocetyl ether (isoceteth-13), polyethylene glycol (14) isocetyl ether (isoceteth-14), polyethylene glycol (15) isocetyl ether (isoceteth-15), polyethylene glycol (16) isocetyl ether (isoceteth-16), polyethylene glycol (17) isocetyl ether ( Isoceteth-17), polyethylene glycol (18) isocetyl ether (isoceteth-18), polyethylene glycol (19) isocetyl ether (isoceteth-19), polyethylene glycol (20) isocetyl ether (isoceteth-20),
Polyethylene glycol (12) oleyl ether (oleth-12), polyethylene glycol (13) oleyl ether (oleth-13), polyethylene glycol (14) oleyl ether (oleth-14), polyethylene glycol (15) oleyl ether (oleth-15),
Polyethylene glycol (12) lauryl ether (Laureth-12), polyethylene glycol (12) isolauryl ether (Isolaureth-12).
Polyethylene glycol (13) cetyl stearyl ether (ceteareth-13), polyethylene glycol (14) cetyl stearyl ether (ceteareth-14), polyethylene glycol (15) cetyl stearyl ether (ceteareth-15), polyethylene glycol (16) cetyl stearyl ether (ceteareth-16), polyethylene glycol (17) Ceteareth-17), polyethylene glycol (18) cetyl stearyl ether (Ceteareth-18), polyethylene glycol (19) cetyl stearyl ether (Ceteareth-19), polyethylene glycol (20) cetyl stearyl ether (Ceteareth-20).

It is also advantageous to choose the fatty acid ethoxylates from the following group:
Polyethylene glycol (20) stearate, polyethylene glycol (21) stearate, polyethylene glycol (22) stearate, polyethylene glycol (23) stearate, polyethylene glycol (24) stearate, polyethylene glycol (25) stearate,
Polyethylene glycol (12) isostearate, polyethylene glycol (13) isostearate, polyethylene glycol (14) isostearate, polyethylene glycol (15) isostearate, polyethylene glycol (16) isostearate, polyethylene glycol (17) isostearate, polyethylene glycol (18) isostearate, polyethylene glycol (19) isostearate, 20) isostearate, polyethylene glycol (21) isostearate, polyethylene glycol (22) isostearate, polyethylene glycol (23) isostearate, polyethylene glycol (24) isostearate, polyethylene glycol (25) isostearate,
Polyethylene glycol (12) oleate, Polyethylene glycol (13) oleate, Polyethylene glycol (14) oleate, Polyethylene glycol (15) oleate, Polyethylene glycol (16) oleate, Polyethylene glycol (17) oleate, Polyethylene glycol (18) oleate, Polyethylene glycol (19) oleate, Polyethylene glycol ( 20) oleate.

As ethoxylated alkyl ether carboxylic acid or its salt, sodium laureth- 11-carboxylate can be used.

Sodium laureth 1-4 sulfate can advantageously be used as alkyl ether sulfate.

Polyethylene glycol (30) cholesteryl ether can advantageously be used as the ethoxylated cholesterol derivative be used. Polyethylene glycol (25) soyasterol has also proven itself.

Polyethylene glycol (60) evening primrose can advantageously be used as ethoxylated triglycerides Glycerides can be used (Evening Primrose = evening primrose).

Another advantage is the polyethylene glycol glycerol fatty acid ester from the group Polyethylene glycol (20) glyceryl laurate, polyethylene glycol (21) glyceryl laurate, Polyethylene glycol (22) glyceryl laurate, polyethylene glycol (23) glyceryl laurate, polyethylene glycol (6) glyceryl caprate / caprinate, Polyethylene glycol (20) glyceryl oleate, polyethylene glycol (20) glyceryl isostearate, Polyethylene glycol (18) glyceryl oleate / cocoat to choose.

It is also cheap to use the sorbitan esters from the group Polyethylene glycol (20) sorbitan monolaurate, polyethylene glycol (20) sorbitan monostearate, Polyethylene glycol (20) sorbitan monoisostearate, polyethylene glycol (20) sorbitan monopalmitate, polyethylene glycol (20) sorbitan monooleate to choose.

Advantageous W / O emulsifiers that can be used are: fatty alcohols with 8 to 30 Carbon atoms, monoglycerol esters of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids with a chain length of 8 to 24, in particular 12-18 C- Atoms, diglycerol esters saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids with a chain length of 8 to 24, in particular 12-18 C atoms, monoglycerol ethers saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols with a chain length of 8 to 24, in particular 12-18, carbon atoms, Diglycerol ethers of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols a chain length of 8 to 24, especially 12-18 carbon atoms, propylene glycol ester saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids Chain length of 8 to 24, in particular 12-18 C atoms and saturated sorbitan esters and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids Chain length from 8 to 24, especially 12-18 C atoms.

Particularly advantageous W / O emulsifiers are glyceryl monostearate, Glyceryl monoisostearate, glyceryl monomyristate, glyceryl monooleate, diglyceryl monostearate, Diglyceryl monoisostearate, propylene glycol monostearate, propylene glycol monoisostearate, Propylene glycol monocaprylate, propylene glycol monolaurate, sorbitan monoisostearate, sorbitan monolaurate, Sorbitan monocaprylate, sorbitan monoisooleate, sucrose distearate, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, Arachidyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, isobehenyl alcohol, selachyl alcohol, chimyl alcohol, Polyethylene glycol (2) stearyl ether (steareth-2), glyceryl monolaurate, glyceryl monocaprinate, Glyceryl.

The aqueous-alcoholic extracts from Pongamia are used according to the invention pinnata for the manufacture of cosmetic or dermatological preparations for prophylaxis and / or treatment of inflammatory skin conditions and / or for skin protection sensitive and dry skin (such as atopic eczema, seborrheic Eczema, polymorphic light dermatosis, psoriasis, vitiligo, wound healing disorders, itching, sensitive or irritated skin, light-related skin damage and UV-induced Immunosuppression, changes in desquamation, changes in normal fibroblast and keratinocyte proliferation, changes in normal fibroblast and Keratinocyte differentiation deficit sensitive or hypoactive skin conditions or deficit sensitive or hypoactive conditions of skin appendages and to reduce the Skin thickness).

Furthermore, according to the invention, they are used for the production of cosmetic extracts or dermatological preparations for the prophylaxis and / or treatment of inflammatory skin conditions and / or for skin protection in sensitive and dry Skin (such as atopic eczema, seborrheic eczema, polymorphic light dermatosis, Psoriasis, vitiligo, wound healing disorders, itching, sensitive or irritated skin, light-induced skin damage and UV-induced immunosuppression, changes in Desquamation, changes in normal fibroblast and Keratinocyte proliferation, changes in normal fibroblast and keratinocyte differentiation deficient sensitive or hypoactive skin conditions or deficient sensitive or hypoactive conditions of skin appendages and to reduce skin thickness).

According to the invention, the extract or the extract from the seeds from Pongamia is advantageous pinnata used with a content of 0.01-20.0% by weight, preferably 0.02-10.0% by weight, particularly advantageous 0.1-3.0 wt .-%, accordingly, each based on the Total weight of the composition.

The extracts according to the invention are obtained as follows:
After the plant material has been comminuted, the extraction in the ratio of plant to extractant is from 0.5 g: 100 ml to 1.0 g: 1.0 ml, in particular from 2 g: 1 ml to 1 g: 1 ml. The extractants are ethanolic / aqueous solutions in the concentration range from 5: 100% by volume to 98: 100% by volume, in particular from 25: 100% by volume to 95: 100% by volume, especially 25: 100% by volume and 95 : 100 vol .-%, each based on the total volume of the extractant used. The extraction temperature can be in the range from + 4 ° C to + 100 ° C, but is preferably carried out at + 25 ° C using a mixer, stirrer or other comminution apparatus. The extracted plant material is separated from the extractant by filtration, centrifugation, decantation or another suitable conventional method.

To obtain a dry extract, the ethanolic / aqueous phase is used Lyophilization, evaporation or other suitable method is evaporated to dryness.

The preferred form according to the invention of the aqueous-alcoholic extracts are Dry extracts.

The following examples are intended to illustrate, but not limit, the invention. The figures relate to% by weight, unless stated otherwise. 1. PIT emulsions



2. Examples of O / W cream



3. Examples of O / W cream

4. Examples of W / O emulsions



5. Examples of W / O emulsions



6. Examples of hydrodispersions



7th example (gel cream)

Example 8 (W / O cream)

Example 9 (W / O / W cream)

10. Example W / O pen

11. Example W / O pen

Claims (5)

1. Cosmetic and / or dermatological preparations containing aqueous alcoholic Extracts and / or lyophyllized aqueous-alcoholic extracts from Pongamia pinnata. 2. Cosmetic and / or dermatological preparations containing individual and / or one Combination of several compounds in the aqueous-alcoholic extract occurring substances. 3. Use of aqueous-alcoholic extracts and / or lyophyllized aqueous alcoholic extracts from Pongamia pinnata for the production of cosmetic and / or dermatological preparations for the prophylaxis and treatment of inflammatory Skin conditions - including atopic eczema - and / or for skin protection in sensitive determined dry skin. 4. Use of aqueous-alcoholic extracts and / or lyophyllized aqueous alcoholic extracts from the seeds of Pongamia pinnata for production cosmetic and / or dermatological preparations for the prophylaxis and treatment of inflammatory skin conditions - including atopic eczema - and / or for skin protection for sensitive, determined dry skin. 5. Cosmetic and / or dermatological preparations according to one of the preceding Claims, characterized in that they have an extract content of 0.01 to 20% by weight, preferably 0.02 to 10% by weight and very particularly preferably 0.1 to 3% by weight, each based on the total weight of the preparations.