DE10057769A1 - Use of a composition for cosmetic or dermatological hair care products, comprises dispersed liquid crystals forming a cubic phase as a base - Google Patents

Abstract

A composition comprising dispersed liquid crystals forming a cubic phase comprising lipid, water and surfactant, together with cosmetic oils, sterols, phospholipids, polyols, antioxidants and active ingredients and optionally a thickener, is used as a base for cosmetic or dermatological hair care products.

Description

The present invention relates to hair care products which disperse liquid contain crystals, as well as processes for their preparation. In particular, the above concerns underlying invention hair cosmetic preparations for the care of the hair and the head skin. In a preferred embodiment, the present invention relates to Zuberei tions that serve to strengthen the individual hair and / or the overall hairstyle Stop, give fullness and shine.

The whole human body except the lips, the palms and The soles of the feet are hairy, but for the most part with scarcely visible woolly hairs. Because of the many nerve endings on the hair root hair is sensitive to External influences such as wind or touch and are therefore not to be underestimated the part of the sense of touch. The most important function of the human head hair However, today it should consist in the appearance of man in characteristic to participate in the creative process. Similar to the skin, it fulfills a social function as it about his appearance significantly to interpersonal relationships and to Self-esteem of the individual contributes.

The hair consists of the hair shaft which protrudes freely from the skin - the keratini sated (dead) part, which represents the actually visible hair - and in the skin sticking hair root - the living part where the visible hair is constantly new is formed. The hair shaft in turn is composed of three layers: one cent ral part - the so-called Haarmark (medulla), which, however, in humans and is often completely absent - also the marrow (cortex) and the outer, to to ten layers strong cuticle (cuticle), which covers the whole hair.  

The human hair is, if there are no pathological changes, is in A freshly regenerated condition is virtually impossible to improve. The nearby The scalp part of a hair accordingly has a nearly closed scale layer on. However, especially the cuticle layer as the outer shell of the hair, but also the inner area below the cuticle especially exposed to environmental stress.

It is known that the hair is affected by external influences of various kinds in their physical, chemical and morphological characteristics are damaged can. Thus, the hair is affected by intense sunlight and other Kli influences such as humidity and temperature differences, mechanical Exposure to intensive combing or brushing, cosmetic hair treatments, such as repeated hair coloring and in particular bleaching and hair shaping (eg perms), but also by frequent washing with ent greasy surfactants, especially in the area of the hair tips, are heavily stressed and strained paziert. Especially oxidative stress often leads to damage of the hair.

The hair becomes brittle and loses its shine; the hair surface is raised roughened, and there are tangles and knots. A consequence is an exception neat bad combing and entanglement of the hair.

Hair care products with a combability-improving and nourishing effect usually applied in the form of rinses and can be a significant Improvement of the hair condition. They can be formulated so that they not only the care of the individual hair, but also the look of the hairstyle improve overall, for example by giving the hair more fullness, Fix the hairstyle over a longer period of time or improve its hairstyle. Such hair care products are generally emulsions or suspensions, which u. a. Fatty alcohols, waxes and oils, and quaternary ammonium compounds contain. Quaternary ammonium compounds are hair-borne and often still detectable on the hair after several washes.  

The shine of the hair depends on its surface texture. The rougher its surface is, the greater the proportion of diffusely reflected light and the more less the shine. Damage to the hair leads to damage to the cuticle in the way that the Cuticulaschuppen irregularly protrude from the hair and dement generating roughness on the hair surface. To smooth out the rough Hair surface so far cosmetic preparations are used, which in particular special oils, waxes or resins. The main disadvantages of these preparations lie in a partly poor biodegradability of the ingredients, the greasy appearance of the hair resulting from their application as well as in occasent compatibility problems. Furthermore, such formulations only one glossy coating on the hair creates a sticky feel to the user can generate. In addition, the gloss produced in this way naturally only until the next hair wash.

Task was therefore to remedy the disadvantages of the prior art remedy.

Certain, structurally not uniform biomolecules are used in the biochemical terminology under the term "lipids" summarized. In the original meaning "lipids" are fats, ie carboxylic esters of glyce rins.

In a broader sense, this term refers to a group of water-insoluble sols understood, which is characterized by at least one distinctly hydrophilic molecule area and at least a pronounced lipophilic molecular area distinguished. The Phosphoric acid esters of acylated glycerols, the so-called "phospholipids" and others Compounds belong to this rather inhomogeneous group of chemical compounds Links.

Of the utmost importance among the phosphatidylcholines are, for example, the lecithins, which are distinguished by the general structure

in which R 'and R "typically have unbranched aliphatic radicals of 15 or 17 carbon atoms and up to 4 cis double bonds.

Due to the structural conditions, lipids form in vitro, for example in the Mixture with water, usually no true molecular solutions. Much more For example, they form so-called micelles, in which the lipophilic molecular regions of the lipid molecules are directed to the interior of the micelle and the hydrophilic areas of the lipid molecules represent the outer area of the micelles.

Of further biological importance is the ability of the lipids to penetrate the to arrange known lipid bilayers. For example, lipid membranes can linear, curved (cubic phases, L3 phases) or self-contained (vesicles, L4 phases) Phases) are present.

Disperse liquid crystals, which are cubic or inverse cubic phases, are known per se. They can be derived formally from crystallographic sphere packings in which the spheres represent micelles ( FIG. 1) which can regularly be arranged in a grid ( FIG. 2). In addition to these micellar cubic or inverse micellar cubic structures, there are so-called bicontinuous cubic structures in which instead of micelles lipid double membranes are involved. These can bend into spheres (liposomes, vesicles) or form extensive three-dimensional structures, which have been mathematically described, for example, by Schwarz. In the case of the cubic bicontinuous phase, the imaginary minimal surface is the bilayered bilayer membrane, which due to the regular structure allows the formation of two independent water channels. The total curvature of such a structure is, however, zero, it requires no energy to form derarti ger structures except for mixing the components such. B. glyceryl monooleate and water. Bicontinuity is created by the water channels that occur in three dimensions as well as by the continuous bilayer membrane.

These structures are sometimes highly complex interpenetrating cavity structures, but their inner surfaces can often be described by simple mathematical formulas, as the following examples from the cubic (isometric) crystal system demonstrate:
for the cubic primitive structure: cos x + cos z + cos y = 0
for the diamond structure: sin x.sin y.sin z + sin x.cos y.cos z + cos x.sin y.cos z + cos x.cos y.sin z = 0
for the "gyroid" structure: cos x.sin y + cos y.sin z + cos z.sin x = 0

Cubic phases can also occur in three-phase systems of lipid phase, water phase and surfactant phase occur.

In FIG. 4 is a simplified phase diagram for a three-component system of water, surfactant and oil phase is exemplified. The symbols H denote a hexagonal phase, C a cubic phase, L a lamellar phase and _i H a hexagonal phase.

Cubic phases have already been described in the literature, such. In Biochem. Biophys. Acta 1190 (1994) 9; Biochemistry 29 (1990) 7997; Biochemistry 29 (1990) 7999; Biophys. Journal 70 (1996) 1407; Biophys. Journal 68 (1995) 1856; Biophys. Journal 70 (1996) 2299; Biophys. Journal 68 (1995) 1423; Chemistry and Physics of Lipids 84 (1996) 123; Europ. J. Pharm. Sci. 6 (1998) 231; FEBS Letters 368 (1995) 143; FEBS Letters 369 (1995) 13; Int. J. Pharm. 147 (1997) 135; Int. J. Pharm. 173 (1998) 51; J. Contr. Release 46 (1997) 215; J. Contr. Release 60 (1999) 67; J. Phys. Chem. B 102 (1998) 7262; J. Phys. Chem. 100 (1996) 11766; Langmuir 14 (1998) 4503; long muir 13 (1997) 5476; Langmuir 12 (1996) 4611; Langmuir 12 (1996) 1419; Langmuir 12 (1996) 5250; Langmuir 13 (1997) 3706; Yukagaku 44 (1995) 1004; Yukagaku 44 (1995) 997; Zoological Studies 34 Supplement I (1995) 175; Zoological Studies 34 Supplement I (1995) 241; Journal of Crystallography 211 (1996) 875.

The use of cubic phases in cosmetic preparations is also per se known.

For example, document WO 97/14394 describes cosmetic compositions which contain at least one amphiphilic material which is capable of  water insoluble liquid crystalline phase with a multidimensional periodicity too as soon as this composition is applied to the skin.

WO 97/13528 describes pharmaceutical preparations containing active ingredients and fatty acid esters which can form liquid crystalline phase, wherein the Preparations either already contain liquid crystalline phases or precursor this, which form in contact with moisture in situ these phases.

WO 96/27364 describes formulations for anhydrous dosage forms with acety lated monoglycerides, which are characterized by occlusive films.

WO 95/34287 describes preparations for the controlled release of active substances, which contain diacylglycerides and phospholipids which are cubic phases with each other form.

WO 99/56725 likewise describes preparations for the controlled release of Active ingredients, these preparations are liquid, characterized by a content of Phospholipids, pharmaceutically acceptable solvents and fatty acids and form gel phases in the presence of water.

WO 94/24993 and US 5593663 describe antiperspirant preparations which are incorporated herein by reference Contact with sweat to form cubic phases. These preparations have dement speaking sweat-absorbing properties.

Moreover, WO 94/06400 discloses lipsticks which are cubic structures WO 94/04122 describes diacylglycerides for increasing melanin in melanocytes and WO 92/20377 describes preparations of glyceryl monoline oleates for transdermal applications. Furthermore, the use of glyceryl monolinoleates for the treatment of winter xerosis in WO 92/10995. According to WO 89/11872 can ethanol-containing glyceryl monooleate formulations for the purpose of enhanced Drug penetration and cubic phases also apply in WO 84/02076 described.  

Furthermore, WO 98/47487 discloses pharmaceutical preparations for the controlled release tion of active substances which are in the form of liquid-crystalline phases and for use on injured and uninjured skin and nails and Can serve mucous membranes.

US 5756108 and EP 968704 disclose cosmetic, dermatological or pharmaceutical ceutical preparations which ent ent an oil phase dispersed in a water phase hold, whereby the oil droplets are stabilized by cubic gel particles.

Dispersed cubic phases ("cubosomes")

Although fragmented cubic phases are known per se. EP B 0 643 620 For example, describes the preparation and pharmacological use of colloids Particles based on cubic phases. Furthermore, dispersed cubic phases based on phytantriol in US Pat. No. 5,834,013 and EP 686,386. dispersions at least two amphiphilic components are also described in EP 968 704 ben.

The prior art knows various possibilities, liquid crystalline or cubic disperse or fragment. Dispersed cubic phases are also called "cubosomes".

For example, glyceryl oleate may be dispersed in the presence of suitable fragmenters form cubic phases.

Further, it is described in WO 93/06921 (page 12, line 51 to page 14, line 5) that a cubic phase can be converted into a fragmented cubic phase

• a) block copolymers,
• b) polymers (such as alginates, propylene glycol alginates, gum, arabic, xanthan, carragenan, PVP and carboxymethylcellulose),
• c) ultrasound in the presence of surfactants with an HLB value of 15 or greater or
• d) lamellar phase-forming fragmenters.

Further disclosed herein (page 20, line 24) is a series of suitable amphiphiles Polymers and nonionic, anionic, cationic or zwitterionic frag mentors that can be used to advantage. It is also described ben (page 23, lines 25-34) that by addition of a polymer (alginates, amylopectin, Dextran) of the instability of the cubosomes can be counteracted and that Additives such as sucrose and glycerol can be used without compromising the integrity of the protein Destroying particles (page 23, line 55 to page 24, line 1). In addition to many use The application for dermatological applications is also described.

WO 99/15171 describes nicotine-containing preparations, the u. a. in the form of cubic Liquid crystals or may be present as appropriate dispersions.

However, none of the mentioned writings could open the way to the present invention point.

Disadvantages of the prior art with respect to the dispersed cubic phases, that the systems described are often not sufficiently stable.

For cosmetic, dermatological and pharmaceutical applications need into the dispersed membrane system additives - such as active ingredients, perfume, cosmetic oil components, preservatives, antioxidants and the like - be inserted. However, each of these additives changes the membrane properties depending on its concentration and chemical nature in not present be seen, so that the preparations easily disintegrate. In addition, that too Membrane system of per se (physically) stable particles by oxidation of unge saturated lipids (such as glyceryl oleate, linoleate etc.) are destroyed.

Another disadvantage of the preparations of the prior art is that they are from a are very liquid, milk-like consistency. Desirable for cosmetic and the But matological applications would be especially (thicker) lotions or products with a creamy consistency. However, the state of the art does not exist Any indications as to how known preparations could be thickened. The simple incorporation of a thickening polymer (thickener) is therefore kri table, as well as per se stable particle dispersions by addition of a thickener zer can be disturbed. Another major disadvantage of the formulations described  The prior art is that these are compatible when used per se nonionic or anionic fragmenter are not sufficiently tolerated by the skin, which z. B. can be shown by patch tests.

Object of the present invention was therefore to the disadvantages of the illustrated State of the art remedy.

It has surprisingly been found, and therein is the solution of all of these tasks ben justified that the
Use of cosmetic or dermatological preparations containing disperse liquid crystals containing cubic phases

• a) a periodic membrane system comprising at least one particle and optionally one or more natural or synthetic Lipids, and
• b) one or more water areas and
• c) represent one or more fragmentators,

and an additional salary

• a) one or more compatible with the components according to a), b) and c) skin tolerated additive (s) selected from the group formed is made from cosmetic oils, sterols, phospholipids, polyols, antioxidants dantien and active ingredients

as a galenic base formulation for cosmetic or dermatological hair care geprodukte
to remedy the disadvantages of the prior art.

The preparations according to the invention are extremely satisfactory in every respect Preparations that surprisingly show excellent cosmetic properties and are characterized by excellent skin compatibility. It was over surprisingly found that by the additives according to d) the disadvantages of the prior art technology and the integrity of the cubic particles are still safe is placed. In particular, by the additives according to the invention the Hautverträg ability of the delivery system to be significantly improved.  

The content of skin-compatible additives according to the invention according to d) (one or several compounds) in the preparations is preferably from 0.01 to 20% by weight, particularly preferably 0.01 to 10 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the Zube reitung.

If cosmetic oil components, such as macadamia oil, and / or Ste role, such as B. cholesterol, the skin-tolerable additive or the invention represent their respective concentrations in the range of 0.01 to 3.0 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the formulation to choose.

If phospholipids, such as phosphatidylcholine, the or the invention represent appropriate skin-friendly additives, it is advantageous to their respective Concentrations in the range of 0.01 to 3.0 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the formulation to choose.

If glycerol is the skin-compatible additive according to the invention, it is advantageous, its concentrations in the range of 0.5 to 20 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the formulation to choose.

If antioxidants, the skin-compatible additives according to the invention represent, it is advantageous, their respective concentrations in the range of 0.01 to 0.5 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the formulation to choose. Geeig Nete antioxidants are z. Butylhydroxytoluene, propyl gallate and tocopherols and Derivatives (for example vitamin E acetate), in particular those which are available under the trade name Drawing Mixed tocopherols MTS 70 are available from the company ADM.

Furthermore, it is particularly advantageous to treat the individual skin-friendly ones described above To combine additives and in this way one over the state of the art To obtain a particularly skin-friendly composition.

It was particularly surprising that preparations according to the invention already with low addition of a moisturizer - such as glycerin in one concentration of 3% by weight - for continuous use on the skin over four weeks excellent skin moisturizing (+ 33% against untreated control areas) and  Skin smoothing effects and therefore many traditional dosage forms, such as z. As emulsions, with an analogous Moisturizergehalt are clearly superior. This skin Nursing effects can be increased even further if the moisturizer content continues to increase becomes.

Moisturizers are substances or mixtures of substances which are cosmetic or dermatological preparations, after application or distributing on the skin surface the moisture release of the horny layer (also transepidermal water loss (TEWL)) and / or hydration of the Horny layer to influence positively.

Advantageous moisturizers for the purposes of the present invention are, for example, glyce rin, lactic acid, pyrrolidonecarboxylic acid and urea. Furthermore, it is in particular of Advantage, polymeric moisturizers from the group of water-soluble and / or in water swellable and / or water-gellable polysaccharides. For example, hyaluronic acid, chitosan and / or a particularly advantageous fucose-rich polysaccharide, which in the Chemical Abstracts under the Registry number 178463-23-5 filed and z. B. under the name Fucogel1000 of the Company SOLABIA S.A. is available.

Surprisingly, it is also possible skin care effects without the addition of a Moisturizers, for example, by integration of ceramides (in particular Ceramide III) or phosphatidylcholine or combinations of both in the dispersed cubic membrane of the preparations according to the invention.

Furthermore, it has surprisingly been found that the skin care effects (such as, for example, the skin Smoothing) with the content of dispersed cubic particles or the content of unsaturated glyceryl ester in the preparations according to the invention increases.

It was further demonstrated that after topical application of the dispersed cubic free fatty acids - such as linoleic acid (when using Glyceryl linoleate as structuring agent), linolenic acid (when using glyceryl linolines nat) or oleic acid (when using glyceryl oleate) - enriched in the skin who the. In persons with a deficit of these fatty acids can be accordingly  Such deficiencies by using the Zuberei invention remedies. This is particularly beneficial for people who have a sensitive Scalp or suffering from seborrheic dermatitis. Therefore are suitable the preparations according to the present invention especially as Basisfor formulations for the prevention and treatment of dandruff and dry and / or sensitive scalp.

It could also be demonstrated that the use of cosmetic or cosmetic dermatological preparations for the purposes of the present invention to a combing Power reduction of the hair - both in the wet and in the dry state - leads. This favors the use of these preparations for the hair care sector in the art of shampoos, conditioners, cures, fluids, gels, hair lotions, tonics, hair sprays. It is particularly advantageous and equally astonishing that in this case the use of quaternary compounds commonly used in hair care can be waived.

Furthermore, it could be demonstrated that the unsaturated glycerol esters on the hair remain even if the preparations under so-called rinse-off conditions the hair applied, d. H. be rinsed out after use. This Substanti In general, the presence of substances on hair surfaces becomes particularly irritating gene and cures exploited to obtain the desired care properties. These Substantivness of the ingredients usually leads to a weighting of the Individual hairs and thus to an (unwanted) decrease in hair volume and the Hair full of a hairstyle.

Surprisingly, in the formulations according to the present inventions Despite its substantivity, it has an excellent body and an excellent volume the hairstyle determined. Furthermore, it could be demonstrated that by the one a brief shampoo treatment with formulations in the sense of the present invention tion of previously treated hair to restore the original hair condition can. It has also been demonstrated that the use of formulations in the According to the present invention lead to a more homogeneous hair surface, as the Application of a hair shampoo of the prior art. This surprising and unexpected effect is a prerequisite for a good hair shine, which  an important parameter for cosmetic and dermatological hair care products in the Represents the user's sense.

Particularly advantageous embodiments of the cosmetic and dermatological Hair care preparations according to the present invention, which in turn to invent deric activity, in addition to the above-mentioned characteristics a) to d) one or more with the components of a), b), c) and d) compatible thickener.

By combination with thickeners are lotion / cream-like (ie higher viscosity) Dosage forms available. Inventive low-viscosity (sprayable) Zuberei tions which do not contain thickeners, preferably have viscosities of less than 2,000 mPa.s, in particular less than 1,500 mPa.s; flowable lotions in the Sense of the present invention typically have viscosities of about 2,000 mPa.s. up to about 6,000 mPa.s. The viscosity of the formulations according to the invention but can also be significantly greater than 6,000 mPa.s advantageous; so z. B. advantage "soft" creams having a viscosity of about 6,000 mPa.s up to about 10,000 mPa.s getting produced. Furthermore, formulations with viscosities are greater than 10,000 mPa.s advantageous in the context of the present invention. (All viscosities determinable with a Haake Viscotester VT-02 at 25 ° C.)

For the purposes of the present invention, lotion / cream-like formulations preferably comprise at least one thickener, preferably in a concentration of up to about 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparations. Advantageously can be used:
Celluloses and their derivatives, polyacrylic acids and their derivatives, acrylic acid copolymers and their derivatives, starches and their derivatives, pectins and their derivatives, alginates and their derivatives, keratins and derivatives thereof, guar and their derivatives, collagens and their derivatives, hyaluronic acid and their derivatives, chitosans and their derivatives, carrageenans and their derivatives, phyllosilicates and their derivatives, siloxanes and their derivatives, polyethylene glycols and their derivatives, in particular of the ABA type (A: hydrophobic, B: hydrophilic), polyethylene glycol / polypropylene glycol block copolymers, polyquaternium compounds and their derivatives, polyvinylpyrrolidones and their derivatives, polyvinylpyrrolidone copolymers and their derivatives.

Particularly advantageous for the purposes of the present invention are hydroxyethyl cellulose, Hydroxypropylmethylcellulose, cetylhydroxyethylcellulose, carboxymethylcellulose, Sodium carboxymethylcellulose, PEG 150 distearate, xanthan gum and carbomers.

It was surprising that only selected thickeners are suitable, the integrity of To ensure particle dispersion with simultaneous creamy consistency and thereby preventing phase separation in various stability load tests.

Preferred for the purposes of the present invention is xanthan (CAS No. 11138-66-2), also called xanthan gum, which is an anionic heteropolysaccharide, which in usually formed by fermentation of corn sugar and isolated as potassium salt. It is under aerobic of Xanthomonas campestris and some other species Conditions having a molecular weight of 2 × 10 6 to 24 × 10 6 produced. xanthan is formed from a chain of -1,4-linked glucose (cellulose) with side chains. The structure of the "repeated units" consists of glucose, mannose, glu curonic acid, acetate and pyruvate.

Thickeners which are advantageous according to the invention are also polymers of acrylic acid, in particular those selected from the group of the so-called carbomers or carbopols (Carbopol is actually a registered trademark of the BF Goodrich Company). Carbopols are compounds of the general structural formula

whose molecular weight can be between about 400,000 and more than 4,000,000. Also included in the group of carbopols are acrylate-alkyl acrylate copolymers, for example those characterized by the following structure:

In this R 'represents a long-chain alkyl radical and x and y are numbers which deni symbolize stoichiometric proportion of the respective comonomers. These too Carbopols are advantageous in the context of the present invention.

Advantageous carbopols are, for example, the types 907, 910, 934, 940, 941, 951, 954, 980, 981, 1342, 1382, 2984, 5984 and ETD 2001, these compounds being single or may be present in any combination with each other. Especially before Carbopol 981, 1382 and 5984 (both individually and in combination with additional hydrocolloids).

Also advantageous for the purposes of the present invention are the acrylate-alkyl acrylate Copolymers comparable copolymers of C10-30-alkyl acrylates and one or several monomers of acrylic acid, methacrylic acid or their esters. The INCI Designation for such compounds is "Acrylates / C 10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspoly In particular advantageous are those under the trade names Pemulen TR1 and Pemulen TR2 at B.F. Goodrich Company available.

The total amount of one or more thickeners is used in the finished cosmeti or dermatological preparations particularly advantageous smaller than or equal to 3.0 wt .-%, especially between 0.01 and 1.5 wt .-%, based on the Total weight of the preparations chosen.

It was particularly surprising that by adding thickeners to moisturizer Containing cubic dispersions further increase skin hydration and Skin smoothing could be achieved compared to the low viscous dispersion.  

Particularly advantageous preparations in the context of the present invention, which surprisingly good short-term skin moisturizing effects (+ 10% compared to untreated skin areas) and be completely free from moisturizers can contain, for example, in addition to the unsaturated glycerol phosphatidyl choline and cholesterol, and as thickeners, for example, cetylhydroxyethylcellulose.

Also preparations according to the invention, which - for example by addition of carbomer - thickened, show excellent skin moisturization after topical application. and skin smoothing effects and have a scaling-reducing effect. Accordingly are These preparations also clearly superior to those of the prior art.

It is particularly advantageous to the already described advantageous additional and / or To combine active ingredients with the thickeners described as advantageous.

Particularly advantageous preparations are also obtained if as additional or Active ingredients antioxidants are used. According to contain the Zuberei advantageous one or more antioxidants. As cheap, but still facult tative antioxidants can all be used for cosmetic and / or dermatologi applications suitable or conventional antioxidants are used.

Advantageously, the antioxidants are selected from the group consisting of amino acid ren (eg glycine, histidine, tyrosine, tryptophan) and their derivatives, imidazoles (eg Uro caninsäure) and their derivatives, peptides such as D, L-carnosine, D-carnosine, L-carnosine and their derivatives (eg anserine), carotenoids, carotenes (eg carotene, carotene, lycopene) and their derivatives, lipoic acid and its derivatives (eg dihydrolipoic acid), Aurothioglu cose, propylthiouracil and other thiols (eg thioredoxin, glutathione, cysteine, cystine, Cystamine and its glycosyl, N-acetyl, methyl, ethyl, propyl, amyl, butyl and Lauryl, palmitoyl, oleyl, linoleyl, cholesteryl and glyceryl esters) and salts thereof, Di-lauryl thiodipropionate, distearyl thiodipropionate, thiodipropionic acid and its derivatives (Esters, ethers, peptides, lipids, nucleotides, nucleosides and salts) as well as sulfoximine ver compounds (eg, buthionine sulfoximines, homocysteinesulfoximine, buthionine sulfones, penta-, Hexa-, heptathionine sulfoximine) in very low tolerated dosages (eg pmol to mol / kg), furthermore (metal) chelators (for example hydroxyfatty acids, palmitic acid, phytin acid, lactoferrin), hydroxy acids (eg, citric acid, lactic acid, malic acid), humic acid  acid, bile acid, bile extracts, bilirubin, biliverdin, EDTA, EGTA and their deri vate, unsaturated fatty acids and their derivatives (eg, linolenic acid, linoleic acid, oil acid), folic acid and its derivatives, ubiquinone and ubiquinol and their derivatives, Vitamin C and derivatives (eg ascorbyl palmitate, Mg - ascorbyl phosphate, ascorbyl acetate), Tocopherols and derivatives (eg Vitamin E - acetate), Vitamin A and derivatives (Vitamin A - palmitate) as well as Konyferylbenzoat of Benzoeharzes, Rutinsäure and their derivatives, Ferulic acid and its derivatives, butylhydroxytoluene, butylhydroxyanisole, Nordihydro guaiacolic acid, nordihydroguiaretic acid, trihydroxy-butyrophenone, uric acid and their derivatives, mannose and its derivatives, zinc and its derivatives (eg ZnO, ZnSO4) selenium and its derivatives (eg selenium methionine), stilbenes and their derivatives (eg, stilbene oxide, trans-stilbene oxide) and the derivatives useful in this invention (Salts, esters, ethers, sugars, nucleotides, nucleosides, peptides and lipids) of these called active ingredients.

Particularly advantageous in the context of the present invention, water-soluble anti oxidants are used.

An amazing feature of the preparations according to the invention is that these being very good vehicles for cosmetic or dermatological agents, being before The active ingredients are antioxidants which protect the skin / hair from oxidative stress protect. Preferred antioxidants are vitamin E and its Derivatives as well as vitamin A and its derivatives.

The amount of antioxidants (one or more compounds) in the preparations is preferably 0.001 to 30 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.05 to 20 wt .-%, in particular 0.1 to 10 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the preparation.

If vitamin E and / or its derivatives are the antioxidant (s) advantageous, the respective concentrations of which range from 0.001 to 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the formulation to choose.

If vitamin A or vitamin A derivatives, or carotenes or their derivatives, the or which are antioxidants is advantageous, their respective concentrations from the  Range from 0.001 to 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the formulation, to choose.

According to the invention, the active compounds (one or more compounds) can also be chosen very advantageously from the group of lipophilic active compounds, in particular from the following group:
Acetylsalicylic acid, atropine, azulene, hydrocortisone and its derivatives, e.g. B. Hydrocor tison-17-valerate, vitamins, eg. As ascorbic acid and its derivatives, vitamins of the B and D series, very favorable the vitamin B1, the vitamin B12 the vitamin D1, but also bisabolol, unsaturated fatty acids, especially the essential fatty acids (often called vitamin F), especially the gamma-linolenic acid, oleic acid, eicosapentaenoic acid, docosahexaenoic acid and its derivatives, chloramphenicol, caffeine, prostaglandins, thymol, camphor, extracts or other products of herbal and animal origin, eg. B. evening primrose oil, borage oil or currant seed oil, fish oils, cod liver oil but also ceramides and ceramide-like compounds and so on.

It is also advantageous to the active ingredients from the group of lipid-replaceable substances select, for example Purcellinöl, Eucerit and Neocerit.

The active substance or agents are furthermore advantageously selected from the group of NO synthase inhibitors, in particular when the preparations according to the invention for Treatment and prophylaxis of the symptoms of intrinsic and / or extrinsic Skin aging and for the treatment and prophylaxis of the harmful effects ultraviolet radiation to the skin.

Preferred NO synthase inhibitor is nitroarginine.

Further advantageously, the active ingredient (s) are selected from the group which cate chine and bile acid esters of catechins and aqueous or organic extracts Plants or parts of plants containing catechins or bile acids catechins such as the leaves of the plant family Theaceae, in particular the species Camellia sinensis (green tea). In particular  advantageous are their typical ingredients (such as, for example, polyphenols or catechins, Caffeine, vitamins, sugars, minerals, amino acids, lipids).

Catechins represent a group of compounds known as hydrogenated flavones or Anthocyanidins and derivatives of "catechin" (catechol, 3,3 ', 4', 5,7- Flavanpentaol, 2- (3,4-dihydroxyphenyl) chroman-3,5,7-triol). Also epicate quin ((2R, 3R) -3,3 ', 4', 5,7-flavanpentaol) is an advantageous active ingredient in the sense of underlying invention.

Also advantageous are herbal extracts containing catechins, in particular extracts of green tea, such as. B. Extracts from leaves of the plants of the species Camellia spec., Especially Camellia sinenis, C. assamica, C. talien sis or C. irrawadiensis and crosses of these with, for example, Camellia japo nica.

Preferred active substances are also polyphenols or catechins from the group (-) - Catechin, (+) - catechin, (-) - catechin gallate, (-) - gallocatechin gallate, (+) - epicatechin, (-) - Epicatechin, (-) - epicatechin gallate, (-) - epigallocatechin, (-) - epigallocatechin gallate.

Also, flavone and its derivatives (often collectively called "flavones") are beneficial agents within the meaning of the present invention. They are identified by the following basic structure (substitution positions specified):

Some of the more important flavones, which can also preferably be used in preparations according to the invention, are listed in the following table:

In nature, flavones usually occur in glycosidated form.

According to the invention, the flavonoids are preferably selected from the group of sub stances of the generic structural formula

where Z1 to Z7 are selected independently of one another from the group H, OH, Atkoxy- and hydroxyalkoxy, wherein the alkoxy or hydroxyalkoxy groups branches and may be unbranched and have from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and wherein Gly is selected is selected from the group of mono- and oligoglycoside radicals.  

According to the invention, however, the flavonoids can also be chosen advantageously from the group of substances of the generic structural formula

where Z1 to Z6 are selected independently of one another from the group H, OH, Alkoxy- and hydroxyalkoxy, wherein the alkoxy or hydroxyalkoxy groups branches and may be unbranched and have from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and wherein Gly is selected is selected from the group of mono- and oligoglycoside radicals.

Preferably, such structures can be selected from the group of substances of the generic structural formula

where Gly1, Gly2 and Gly3 independently represent monoglycoside residues or. Gly2 or Gly3 can also individually or together saturations by water represent atoms of matter.

Preferably Gly1, Gly2 and Gly3 are independently selected from the Group of hexosyl radicals, in particular the rhamnosyl radicals and glucosyl radicals. But also other hexosyl radicals, for example allosyl, altrosyl, galactosyl, gulosyl, idosyl, Mannosyl and talosyl may be advantageous to use. It can also be advantageous according to the invention to use Pentosylreste.  

Advantageously, Z1 to Z5 are independently selected from the group consisting of H, OH, methoxy, ethoxy and 2-hydroxyethoxy, and the flavone glycosides have the structure

The flavone glycosides according to the invention are particularly advantageous from the group which are represented by the following structure:

where Gly1, Gly2 and Gly3 independently represent monoglycoside residues or. Gly2 or Gly3 can also individually or together saturations by water represent atoms of matter.

Preferably Gly1, Gly2 and Gly3 are independently selected from the Group of hexosyl radicals, in particular the rhamnosyl radicals and glucosyl radicals. But also other hexosyl radicals, for example allosyl, altrosyl, galactosyl, gulosyl, idosyl, Mannosyl and talosyl may be advantageous to use. It can also be advantageous according to the invention to use Pentosylreste.  

Particularly advantageous in the context of the present invention, the or the Flavongly coside to choose from the group Glucosylrutin, Glucosylmyricetin, Glucosylisoquer citrin, glucosylisoquercetin and glucosylquercitrin.

Particularly preferred according to the invention is glucosylrutin.

Also advantageous according to the invention are naringin (aurantiine, naringenin 7-rhamnogluco sid), hesperidin (3 ', 5,7-trihydroxy-4'-methoxyflavanone-7-rutinoside, hesperidoside, Hespe retin-7-O-rutinoside). Rutin (3,3 ', 4', 5,7-pentahydroxyfly of 3-rutinoside, quercetin-3-ruthene noside, sophorin, birutane, rutabion, taurutine, phytomelin, melin), troxerutin (3,5- Dihydroxy-3 ', 4', 7-tris (2-hydroxyethoxy) flavone-3- (6-O- (6-deoxyL-mannopyranosyl) D-glu copyranoside), monoxerutin (3,3 ', 4', 5-tetrahydroxy-7- (2-hydroxyethoxy) -flavone-3- (6-O) (6-deoxy-L-mannopyranosyl) D-glucopyranoside), dihydro-robinine (3,3 ', 4', 5 ', 7-penta hydroxyflavanone), taxifolin (3,3 ', 4', 5,7-pentahydroxyflavanone), eriodictyol-7-glucoside (3 ', 4', 5,7-tetrahydroxyflavanone-7-glucoside), flavanomarein (3 ', 4', 7,8-tetrahydroxyflava non-7-glucoside) and isoquercetin (3,3 ', 4', 5,7-pentahydroxyflavanone-3 - (- D-glucopyrano sid).

It is also advantageous, the one or more agents from the group of ubiquinones and To choose plastoquinones.

Ubiquinones are characterized by the structural formula

and make the most widely used and thus best-studied organic quinones. Ubiquinones are added depending on the number of side chain linked Isoprene units as Q-1, Q-2, Q-3, etc. or by number of C atoms as U-5, U-10, U-15 and so on. They preferably occur with certain chain lengths, eg. In  some microorganisms and yeasts with n = 6. Included in most mammals In humans, Q10 is predominant.

Particularly advantageous is coenzyme Q10, which is characterized by the following structural formula:

Plastoquinones have the general structural formula

on. Plastoquinones differ in the number of isoprene residues and are correspondingly designated, for. Eg PQ-9 (n = 9). Furthermore, there are other Plastochinone with different substituents on the quinone ring.

Creatine and / or creatine derivatives are also preferred active ingredients in the sense of the present invention. Creatine is characterized by the following structure:

Preferred derivatives are creatine phosphate as well as creatine sulfate, creatine acetate, creatine ascorbate and those on the carboxyl group with mono- or polyfunctional alcohols esterified derivatives.  

Another beneficial agent is L-carnitine [3-hydroxy-4- (trimethylammonio) -butyrate-acid betaine]. Also acyl-carnitines, which are selected from the group of substances of the following general structural formula

wherein R is selected from the group of branched and unbranched alkyl radicals Up to 10 carbon atoms are advantageous active ingredients in the sense of the present Invention. Preference is given to propionyl carnitine and in particular acetyl carnitine. Both Entantiomers (D and L form) are advantageous in the context of the present invention use. It may also be advantageous to any Enantiomerengemische, for example example, a racemate of D- and L-form to use.

Other beneficial agents are sericoside, pyridoxol, vitamin K, biotin and flavor substances.

The list of active substances or combinations of active substances mentioned in the Invention appropriate preparations can be used, of course, not limitie be his. The active ingredients may be present alone or in any combination used on other.

Furthermore, the solubility of poorly soluble drugs such as biotin in significantly increased the preparations of the invention. The preparations can Both low-viscosity and lotion or cream-like.

In addition, the bioavailability of lipophilic drugs such as Q-10, Tocophe role, lipoic acid, ceramide III, ascorbyl palmitate, sericoside and / or nitroarginine clearly higher than from dosage forms of the prior art.

Advantages achieved according to the invention, which had to surprise the person skilled in the art, are the good adhesion of active ingredients or active principles to the skin.  

The bioadhesiveness of the formulations may, for. B. be used to a styling effect receive. It is believed that after topical application the product water ver evaporates, whereby the dispersed cubic phase in a cubic phase (or other colloid chemical phases). This cubic lipid film (or the film of others colloid chemical phases) protects against environmental noxae. Such products could Accordingly, they are also used as novel barrier creams.

Finally, cosmetic or dermatological preparations according to the present invention by very good skin compatibility.

Particularly skin-friendly and long-term stable formulations are in the sense of before available invention, if instead of the Glycerylmonooleats Glycerylinoleat or Glyceryllinolenat, preferably in a concentration of 0.1 to 7.5 wt .-% is used, based on the total weight of the preparations.

The disperse liquid crystals according to the invention, which represent cubic phases are z. B. prepared by the following methods:

• a) The oil phase comprises the particle or the particle or the advantageous fat-soluble fragmentary and optionally other fat-soluble additives. The mixture is stirred until homogenous melt with heating.

The water phase comprises water and optionally other water-soluble additives.

To the water phase at room temperature, the warm oil phase is added por tionwise with vigorous stirring. Thereafter, with a dispersing device (such as an Ultra-Turrax, Becomischer, warmer mixer) or other conventional methods of homogenization, for example, the Hochdruckhomogenisie tion homogenized.

• a) The oil phase comprises the particle or the particle formers, and possibly other fat soluble additives. The mixture is heated to homogeneous melt under heating touched.

The water phase comprises water, or the advantageously water-soluble fragments animal and, where appropriate, other water-soluble additives. To the room temperature Water phase is the warm oil phase in portions with vigorous stirring added. Thereafter, preferably with a dispersing device (such as an Ultra-Turrax, Becomischer or warmer mixer) homogenized. Others too conventional methods of homogenization, such as high pressure homogeneity tion, are advantageous in the context of the present invention.

I. Particle former

For the purposes of the present invention, the base lipid of the cubic phase (im Within the scope of the disclosure also called "particle former") preferably selected from the Group of unsaturated fatty acid monoglycerides such as glyceryl mono oleate, glyceryl monolinoleate, fatty acid diglycerides such as diglyceryl dioleate or diglyceryldilinoleate, as well as mixtures of the abovementioned sub such as mixtures of diglyceryl monooleate with diglyceryl dioleate, Mixtures of diglyceryl monooleate with diglyceryldilinoleate, etc. But also others lipoid substances such as phytantriol, and also from the gennische before standing designated substances are suitable particle formers in the sense of the present ing invention.

The particle formers can be used in amounts of 0.1 to 50 wt .-%, based on the Total weight of the cubic phases are present.

II. Fragmenter

The fragmenters can be used in amounts of 0.01 to 45 wt .-%, based on the Total weight of the cubic phases are present.

The fragmenters are surfactants or emulsifiers, which may be both ionic and nonionic in nature. Accordingly, the terms "surfactants" and "emulsifiers" will hereafter often be used as synonyms for the term "fragmenter". The hydrophilic moieties of a surfactant molecule are usually polar functional groups, for example COO, OSO ₃ , -SO ₃ , while the hydrophobic moieties generally represent nonpolar hydrocarbon moieties. Surfactants are generally classified according to the nature and charge of the hydrophilic part of the molecule. Here four groups can be distinguished:

• Anionic surfactants (= anionic fragmenters),
• Cationic surfactants (= cationic fragmenters),
• - amphoteric surfactants (= amphoteric fragmenters) and
• - nonionic surfactants (nonionic fragmenters).

a) ionic fragmenter

Anionic surfactants generally have carboxylate, sulfate or sulfonate groups as functional groups. In aqueous solution they form negatively charged organic ions in an acidic or neutral medium. Cationic surfactants are almost exclusively characterized by the presence of a quaternary ammonium group. In aqueous solution, they form positively charged organic ions in an acidic or neutral environment. Amphoteric surfactants contain both anionic and cationic groups and behave accordingly in aqueous solution depending on the pH as anionic cal or cationic surfactants. They have a positive charge in a strongly acidic environment and a negative charge in an alkaline environment. In the neutral pH range, however, they are zwitterionic, as the following example is intended to illustrate:
RNH ₂ + CH ₂ CH ₂ COOH X- (at pH = 2) X- = any anion, e.g. Cl
RNH ₂ + CH ₂ CH ₂ COO- (at pH = 7)
RNHCH ₂ CH ₂ COO-B + (at pH = 12) B + = any cation, e.g. Na +

A. Anionic surfactants

Advantageously used anionic surfactants are
Acylamino acids (and their salts), such as

• 1. acylglutamates, for example sodium acylglutamate, di-TEA-palmitoylaspartate and Sodium caprylic / capric glutamate, acylglycinate, for example sodium cocoyl glycinate,  
• 2. Acyl peptides, for example palmitoyl hydrolyzed milk protein, sodium cocoyl hydrolyzed soy protein and sodium / potassium cocoyl hydrolyzed collagen,
• 3. sarcosinates, for example myristoyl sarcosine, TEA lauroyl sarcosinate, sodium lauroyl sarcosinate and sodium cocoyl sarcosinate,
• 4. taurates, for example sodium lauroyl taurate and sodium methyl cocoyl taurate,
• 5. acyl lactylates, for example sodium lauroyl lactylate, sodium caproyl lactylate,
• 6. alaninates,
• 7. Salts of hyaluronic acid, pyrrolidonecarboxylic acid,

Carboxylic acids and derivatives, such as

• 1. Carboxylic acids, for example lauric acid, aluminum stearate, magnesium alkoxide and zinc undecylenate,
• 2. Ester carboxylic acids, for example, calcium stearoyl lactylate, laureth-6 citrate and Sodium PEG-4 lauramide carboxylate,
• 3. Ether carboxylic acids, for example sodium laureth-13 carboxylate and sodium PEG-6 cocamide carboxylate,

Phosphoric acid esters and salts such as DEA-oleth-10-phosphate and Dilaureth-4 phosphate,
Sulfonic acids and salts, such as

• 1. acyl isethionates, z. B. sodium / ammonium cocoyl isethionate,
• 2. alkylarylsulfonates,
• 3. Alkyl sulfonates, for example sodium coconut monoglyceride sulfate, sodium C12-14 Olefinsulfonate, sodium lauryl sulfoacetate and magnesium PEG-3 cocamide sulfate,
• 4. Sulfosuccinates, for example dioctylsodium sulfosuccinate, disodium laurethsulfo succinate, disodium lauryl sulfosuccinate and disodium undecylenamido MEA sulfo succinate

such as
Sulfuric acid esters, such as

• 1. Alkyl ether sulfate, for example sodium, ammonium, magnesium, MIPA-TIPA Laureth sulfate, sodium myrethsulfate and sodium C12-13 pareth sulfate,
• 2. Alkyl sulfates, for example sodium, ammonium and TEA lauryl sulfate.

Furthermore, it is also possible to use anionic fragmenting aids, for example sodium Lauroyl Lactylate or Sodium Cococyl Glutamate or Sodium Cocoamphoacetate produce the cubosomes according to the invention.

B. Cationic surfactants

Advantageously to use cationic surfactants

• 1. alkylamines,
• 2. Alkylimidazoles,
• 3. Ethoxylated amines and
• 4. Quaternary surfactants,
• 5. esterquats.

Quaternary surfactants contain at least one N-atom, which with 4 alkyl or aryl Grup pen is covalently connected. This leads - regardless of the pH - to a positive Charge. Advantageous are alkylbetaine, alkylamidopropylbetaine and alkylamidopropyl hydroxysulfain. The cationic surfactants used according to the invention can furthermore are preferably selected from the group of quaternary ammonium compounds, in particular Benzyltrialkylammoniumchloride or bromides, such as Ben cyldimethylstearylammonium chloride, further alkyltrialkylammonium salts, for example Cetyltrimethylammonium chloride or bromide, alkyldimethylhydroxyethylammonium chlorides or bromides, dialkyldimethylammonium chlorides or bromides, alkylamide ethyltrimethylammonium ether sulfates, alkylpyridinium salts, for example lauryl or Cetylpyrimidinium chloride, imidazoline derivatives and compounds with cationic cha such as amine oxides, for example alkyldimethylamine oxides or alkylaminoethyl dimethyl amine oxides. In particular, cetyltrimethylammonium salts are advantageous turn.

C. Amphoteric surfactants

Advantageously used amphoteric surfactants

• 1. acyl / dialkylethylenediamine, for example, sodium acylamphoacetate, disodium acyl amphodipropionate, disodium alkyl amphodiacetate, sodium acylamphohydroxy pro pylsulfonate, disodium acylamphodiacetate and sodium acylamphopropionate,  
• 2. N-alkylamino acids, for example aminopropylalkylglutamide, alkylaminopropion acid, sodium alkylimidodipropionate and lauroamphocarboxyglycinate,
• 3. N-alkyl or N-Alkenylbetaine having at least 12 carbon atoms, such as. Lauryl-ami dopropylbetaine and oleylamidopropylbetaine.

b) nonionic fragmenters

Typical of nonionic surfactants are polyether chains. Nonionic surfactants form in aqueous medium no ions.

Polyethoxylated or polyethoxylated and polypropoxylated O / W emulsifiers are or will be used (one or more compounds), preferably selected from the following groups

• the fatty alcohol ethoxylates of the general formula RO - (- CH ₂ -CH ₂ -O-) n H, where R is a branched or unbranched alkyl or alkenyl radical having at least 12 C atoms and n is a number of at least 20,
• - the ethoxylated wool wax alcohols,
• - The polyethylene glycol ether of the general formula RO - (- CH ₂ -CH ₂ -O-) n-R ', where R and R' independently of one another branched or unbranched alkyl or Alke nylreste having at least 12 carbon atoms and n is a number of at least 20 represent,
• The fatty acid ethoxylates of the general formula
• - R-COO - (- CH ₂ -CH ₂ -O-) n H, where R is a branched or unbranched alkyl or alkenyl radical having at least 12 C atoms and n is a number of at least 20,
• - The etherified fatty acid ethoxylates of the general formula R-COO - (- CH ₂ -CH ₂ -O-) n-R ', where R and R' independently branched or unbranched alkyl or alkenyl radicals having at least 12 carbon atoms and n a Number of at least 20 represent
• - the esterified fatty acid ethoxylates of the general formula R-COO - (- CH ₂ -CH ₂ -O-) nC (O) -R ', where R and R' independently of one another branched or unbranched alkyl or alkenyl radicals having at least 12 C Atoms and n represent a number of at least 20,
• - The Polyethylenglycolglycerinfettsäureester saturated and / or unsaturated, ver branched and / or unbranched fatty acids containing at least 12 C atoms and a degree of ethoxylation of at least 15,
• The ethoxylated sorbitan ester having a degree of ethoxylation of at least 20,
• The cholesterol ethoxylates having a degree of ethoxylation of at least 20,
• - the ethoxylated triglycerides with a degree of ethoxylation of at least 20,
• - The alkyl ether carboxylic acids of the general formula RO - (- CH ₂ -CH ₂ -O-) n-CH ₂ -COOH or their cosmetically or pharmaceutically acceptable salts, wherein R is a branched or unbranched alkyl or alkenyl radical having at least 12 carbon atoms and n represent a number of at least 10,
• The polyoxyethylene sorbitol fatty acid ester based on branched or unreacted branched alkane or alkenoic acids having at least 12 carbon atoms and an ethoxy at least 20, for example of the sorbeth type,
• - The alkyl ether sulfates or these sulfates underlying acids of the general formula RO - (- CH ₂ -CH ₂ -O-) n-SO ₃ -H, wherein R is a branched or unbranched alkyl or alkenyl radical having at least 12 carbon atoms and n represent a number of at least 20,
• - The alkyl ether carboxylic acids of the general formula RO - (- CH ₂ -CH (CH ₃ ) O-) n-CH ₂ -COOH or their cosmetically or pharmaceutically acceptable salts, wherein R is a branched or unbranched alkyl or alkenyl radical having at least 10 C. Atoms and n represent a number of at least 2,
• - The alkyl ether sulfates or these sulfates underlying acids of the general formula RO - (- CH ₂ -CH (CH ₃ ) -O-) n-SO ₃ -H with cosmetically or pharma ceutically acceptable cations, wherein R is a branched or unbranched Alkyl or alkenyl radical having at least 5 C atoms and n represents a number of at least 2,
• The fatty alcohol ethoxylates / propoxylates of the general formula R-O-Xn-Ym-H, wherein R is a branched or unbranched alkyl or alkenyl with at least 12 carbon atoms, Y is an oxyethylene group and X is an oxypropyl and n and m independently of one another represent integers from 5 to 50 are,
• - The polypropylene glycol ether of the general formula  R-O-Xn-Ym-R ', where R and R' independently or branched branched alkyl or alkenyl radicals having at least 12 carbon atoms, Y is an oxyethylene group and X represent an oxypropylene group, and n and m are independently other integers are from 5 to 100,
• - The etherified fatty acid propoxylates of the general formula R-COO-Xn-Ym-R ', wherein R and R' independently branched or unreacted branched alkyl or alkenyl radicals having at least 12 carbon atoms, Y is an oxyethylene group and X represent an oxypropylene group, and n and m are independently other integers are from 5 to 100,
• - The fatty acid ethoxylates / propoxylates of the general formula R is -COO-Xn-Ym-H, where R is a branched or unbranched alkyl or alken nylrest having at least 12 C atoms, Y is an oxyethylene group and X is an oxypro and n and m are independently integers of 5 are up to 50,
• - the polyglycerol ester of the general formula R-COO (CH ₂ CH (OH) CH ₂ OH) x where R is a branched or unbranched alkyl or alkenyl radical having at least 12 C atoms and x number of at least 10 glycerol units,
• The polysiloxane-polyether copolymer (eg DC 193 from Dow Corning).

In particular, it is advantageous if the polyethoxylated or polyethoxylated and polypropoxylated O / W emulsifier (one or more compounds) is selected from the groups

• the fatty alcohol ethoxylates of the general formula RO - (- CH ₂ -CH ₂ -O-) n H, where R is a branched or unbranched alkyl or alkenyl radical having at least 12 carbon atoms and n is a number of at least 12,
• - the ethoxylated wool wax alcohols with HLB values of 14 to 19, very special advantageous with HLB values from 15 to 17,
• - The polyethylene glycol ether of the general formula RO - (- CH ₂ -CH ₂ -O-) n-R ', where R and R' independently of one another branched or unbranched alkyl or Alke nylreste having at least 12 carbon atoms and n is a number of at least 20 represent,
• the fatty acid ethoxylates of the general formula R-COO - (- CH ₂ -CH ₂ -O-) n H, where R is a branched or unbranched alkyl or alkenyl radical having at least 12 C atoms and n is a number of at least 12,
• - The etherified fatty acid ethoxylates of the general formula R-COO - (- CH ₂ -CH ₂ -O-) n-R ', where R and R' independently branched or unbranched alkyl or alkenyl radicals having at least 12 carbon atoms and n a Number of at least 20 represent
• - The esterified fatty acid ethoxylates of the general formula R-COO - (- CH ₂ -CH ₂ -O-) n -C (O) -R ', where R and R' independently ver branched or unbranched alkyl or alkenyl radicals having at least 12th C atoms and n represent a number of at least 20,
• - The Polyethylenglycolglycerinfettsäureester saturated and / or unsaturated, ver branched and / or unbranched fatty acids containing at least 12 C atoms and a degree of ethoxylation of at least 20,
• The ethoxylated sorbitan ester having a degree of ethoxylation of at least 20,
• The cholesterol ethoxylates with HLB values of 14 to 19, very particularly advantageous liable with HLB values from 15 to 17,
• - the ethoxylated triglycerides with HLB values of 14 to 19, very special advantageous with HLB values from 15 to 17,
• - The alkyl ether carboxylic acids of the general formula RO - (- CH ₂ -CH ₂ -O-) n-CH ₂ -COOH or their cosmetically or pharmaceutically acceptable salts, wherein R is a branched or unbranched alkyl or alkenyl radical having at least 12 atoms and n a figure of at least 15,
• The polyoxyethylene sorbitol fatty acid ester based on branched or unreacted branched alkane or alkenoic acids and a degree of ethoxylation of at least 20 having, for example, the sorbeth type,
• - The alkyl ether sulfates or these sulfates underlying acids of the general formula RO - (- CH ₂ -CH ₂ -O-) n -SO ₃ -H with cosmetically or pharmazeu table acceptable cations, wherein R is a branched or unbranched alkyl or Alkenyl radical having at least 12 C atoms and n represent a Zahrl of at least 5.

According to the invention, the polyethoxylated or polyethoxylated and polypropoxylated O / W emulsifiers selected from the group of Substances with HLB values of 14 to 19, especially advantageous with HLB values from 15 to 17, provided that the O / W emulsifiers have saturated radicals R and R '. Wei the O / W emulsifiers unsaturated radicals R and / or R ', or are isoalkyl derivatives, the preferred HLB value of such emulsifiers may also be lower or above.

III. Oil components

As part of the membrane system of the disperse cubic phase one or several oil components are chosen, although this is not mandatory for all systems necessary is. Oil components can usually advantageously up to 3 wt .-% of Assume total weight of the cubic phase.

Moreover, the following oil components are equally suitable, the oil phase to form or participate in an overall formulation.

The oil components are advantageously chosen from the group of esters of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkanecarboxylic acids Chain length of 3 to 30 carbon atoms and saturated and / or unsaturated, branched th and / or unbranched alcohols of a chain length of 3 to 30 carbon atoms, from the group of esters of aromatic carboxylic acids and saturated and / or unge saturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols of a chain length of 3 to 30 C-atoms. Such ester oils can then be advantageously selected from the group Isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate, isopropyl oleate, n-butyl stearate, n- Hexyl laurate, n-decyl oleate, isooctyl stearate, isononyl stearate, isononyl isononanoate, 2- Ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl laurate, 2-hexyldecyl stearate, 2-octyl dodecyl palmitate, Oleyl oleate, oleyl erucate, erucyl oleate, erucyl erucate and synthetic, semisynthetic and natural mixtures of such esters, e.g. B. jojoba oil.

Furthermore, the oil components can be selected advantageously from the group of ver branched and unbranched hydrocarbons and waxes, silicone oils, Dialkyl ethers, dialkyl, the group of saturated or unsaturated, ver  branched or unbranched alcohols, and the fatty acid triglycerides, namely the Triglycerol esters of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched Alkanecarboxylic acids of a chain length of 8 to 24, in particular 12 to 18 carbon atoms. The fatty acid triglycerides can be selected, for example, advantageously from Group of synthetic, semi-synthetic and natural oils, e.g. B. olive oil, Son flowering oil, soybean oil, peanut oil, rapeseed oil, almond oil, palm oil, coconut oil, palm kernel oil, maca damia oil, avocado oil, evening primrose oil, canola oil, castor oil and the like.

Any mixtures of such oil and wax components are advantageous in Use of the present invention.

It may also be advantageous to add waxes to the oil components inflict.

Advantageously, the oil components are selected from the group 2-ethylhexyl isostearate, Octyldodecanol, isotridecyl isononanoate, isoeicosane, 2-ethylhexyl cocoate, C12-15 alkyl benzoate, caprylic / capric triglyceride, dicacapryl carbonate, dicaprylyl ether.

Of the hydrocarbons, paraffin oil, squalane and squalene are advantageous in the sense to use the present invention.

Advantageous for the purposes of the present invention are used: sterols, such as Choleste rol, lecithins, hydrogenated lecithins and various mixtures of these components.

Advantageously, the oil components can also contain a content of cyclic or linear Have silicone oils or consist entirely of such oils.

Advantageously, cyclomethicone (octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane) is used as the invention used silicone oil. But other silicone oils are also beneficial For purposes of the present invention, for example Hexamethylcyclotri siloxane, polydimethylsiloxane, poly (methylphenylsiloxane).

The preparations according to the invention may also contain film-forming polymers. Of such polymers with at least partially quaternized nitrogen groups (referred to below as "film formers"), preference is given to those which are selected from the group of substances which carry the name "Polyquaternium" according to the INCI nomenclature (International Nomenclature Cosmetic Ingredient) , for example:
Polyquaternium-2: Chemical Abstracts-No. 63451-27-4, z. Mirapol® A-15,
Polyquaternium-5: Copolymer of the acrylamide and the methacryloxyethyl tri methylammonium methosulfate, CAS no. 26006-22-4,
Polyquaternium-6: homopolymer of N, N-dimethyl-N-2-propenyl-2-propene-1-aminium chloride, CAS-No. 26062-79-3, z. Eg Merquat® 100,
Polyquaternium-7: N, N-dimethyl-N-2-propenyl-2-propene-1-aminium chloride, polymer with 2-propenamide, CAS-No. 26590-05-6, z. Eg Merquat® S,
Polyquaternium-10: Quaternary ammonium salt of hydroxyethylcellulose, CAS-No. 53568-66-4, 55353-19-0, 54351-50-7, 68610-92-4, 81859-24-7, e.g. Celquat® SC-230M,
Polyquaternium-11: vinylpyrrolidone / dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate copolymer / diethyl sulfate reaction product, CAS-No. 53633-54-8, z. Gafquat® 755N,
Polyquaternium-16: vinylpyrrolidone / vinylimidazolinium methochloric copolymer, CAS No. 29297-55-0, e.g. Luviquat® HM 552,
Polyquaternium-17: CAS-No. 90624-75-2, z. Mirapol® AD-1,
Polyquaternium-19: Quaternized water-soluble polyvinyl alcohol,
Polyquaternium-20: water-dispersible quaternized polyvinyl octadecyl ether,
Polyquaternium-21: polysiloxane polydimethyldimethylammonium acetate copolymer, e.g. B. Abil® B 9905,
Polyquaternium-22: dimethyldiallylammonium chloride / acrylic acid copolymer, CAS-No. 53694-7-0, z. Eg Merquat® 280,
Polyquaternium-24: Polymeric quaternary ammonium salt of hydroxyethylcellulose, reaction product with an epoxide substituted with lauryldimethylammonium, CAS-No. 107987-23-5, e.g. Eg Quatrisoft® LM-200,
Polyquaternium-28: vinylpyrrolidone / methacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride copolymer, e.g. Gafquat® HS-100,
Polyquaternium-29: z. Lexquat® CH,
Polyquaternium-31: CAS-No. 136505-02-7, e.g. Hypan® QT 100,
Polyquaternium-32: N, N, N-trimethyl-2 - [(2-methyl-1-oxo-2-propenyl) oxy] ethane amonium chloride, polymer with 2-propenamide, CAS-No. 35429-19-7,
Polyquaternium-37: CAS-No. 26161-33-1.

It can be assumed that sophisticated cosmetic preparations are usually not Without the usual auxiliaries and additives are conceivable. Accordingly, the Cosmetic and dermatological formulations of the invention adjuvants contain, as they are commonly used in such preparations, for. B. Kon alcohol, fillers, perfume, dyes, pigments that have a coloring effect, Emulsifiers, additional active ingredients such as vitamins or proteins, light stabilizers, Sta bilisatoren, water, antimicrobial substances, preservatives, bacteri zide, virucides, substances to prevent foaming, others, not among the Definition of the thickener according to the invention falling thickeners, surfaces active substances, softening, moistening and / or moisturizing Substan zen, anti-inflammatory substances, medicines, oils or other common Ingredients of a cosmetic or dermatological formulation such as alcohols, Diols or polyols of low C number, and their ethers, preferably ethanol, Isopro panol, propylene glycol, glycerol, ethylene glycol, ethylene glycol monoethyl or mono butyl ether, propylene glycol monomethyl, monoethyl or monobutyl ether, di-ethylene glycol monomethyl or monoethyl ether and analogous products, also polymers, Foam stabilizers, electrolytes, salts and / or organic solvents.

As further ingredients can be used fats, waxes and other naturli che and synthetic fatty bodies, preferably esters of fatty acids with alcohols nied Riger C number, z. With isopropanol, propylene glycol or glycerol, or esters of fat alcohols with alkanoic acids of low C number or with fatty acids.

If the cosmetic or dermatological preparation in the sense of the present invention is a solution or dispersion, it is possible to use as solvent:

• - water or aqueous solutions,
• - Alcohols, diols or polyols low C number, and their ethers, preferably Ethanol, isopropanol, propylene glycol, glycerol, ethylene glycol, ethylene glycol mono ethyl or monobutyl ether, propylene glycol monomethyl, monoethyl or  monobutyl ether, diethylene glycol monomethyl or monoethyl ether and analogous Products.

In particular, mixtures of the abovementioned solvents are used. For alcoholic solvents, water can be another ingredient.

According to the use according to the invention, the inventive Formulations in the form of aerosols, ie from aerosol containers, squeeze bottles or by a pump device sprayable preparations or in the form of By means of Rollon devices coatable liquid compositions and in the form of customizable from normal bottles and containers formulations, eg. B. as Creams or lotions. Furthermore, they can be advantageous in the form of tinctures, Intimrei detergents, shampoos, shower or bath preparations, powders or powder sprays available.

As a propellant for sprayable from aerosol containers cosmetic and / or dermatolo gische preparations for the purposes of the present invention are the usual known Volatile, liquefied propellants, for example hydrocarbons (propane, Butane, isobutane) which are used alone or in admixture with each other can. Also, compressed air is advantageous to use.

Of course, the expert knows that there are nontoxic propellants per se, the reason in addition to the realization of the present invention in the form of Aerosolpräpara would be suitable, but nevertheless because of their detrimental effect on the environment or other accompanying circumstances should be waived, in particular fluorocarbon and chlorofluorocarbons (CFCs).

The incorporation of active ingredients can for example take place in an advantageous manner, that oil-soluble or oil-dispersible active ingredients dispersed the oil components of the cubic phase, and / or that water-soluble or water dispersible active substances of the water phase of the dispersed cubic phase added will beat.  

However, it may also be advantageous to disperse such active ingredients Phase surrounding medium. Is it the inventive Preparation for example, a preparation, which is one in the water or oil contains phase-dispersed cubic phase, for example, the water and / or the oil phase of the preparation comprises an active ingredient either as the sole active ingredient or as an active ingredient in addition to those in the cubic phase Agents.

The concentration of the active ingredients can be chosen almost arbitrarily, about However, usually not about 80 wt .-%, based on the total weight of dispersed cubic phase or about 40% by weight of the total weight of the invention Cosmetic or dermatological preparation according to the invention.

Following are advantageous embodiments of the present invention.  

example 1 hair conditioner

Wt .-% Glyceryl Oleate 1.9500 Sodium cocoyl glutamate 0.0500 Xanthan gum 0.7500 glycerin 23.2600 antioxidant 0.0100 Trisodium EDTA 0.5000 Fragrance (perfume) 0.1000 Propylparaben 0.1000 methylparaben 0.2500 Water (aqua) 73.0300

The oil phase comprises the particle former (s) and other fat-soluble additives. The Mixture is stirred until homogenous melt with heating.

The water phase comprises water, the water-soluble fragmenter and all others water-soluble additives. To the water phase at room temperature the warm oil phase is added in portions with vigorous stirring. After that will Homogenized with an Ultra-Turrax stirrer, a Beco or Krieger mixer.

Example 2 conditioner

Wt .-% Glyceryl linoleates 1.9200 Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate 0.0800 Xanthan gum 0.7500 glycerin 17.4400 BHT 0.0100 Trisodium EDTA 0.5000 cholesterol 0.2000 Propylparaben 0.1000 methylparaben 0.2500 Water (aqua) 78.7500

The oil phase comprises the particle former or particles, and other fat-soluble additives, as well as the fragmenter. The mixture is submerged to homogeneous melt Heating stirred.

The water phase includes water and any other water-soluble additives. To the on Room temperature water phase is the warm oil phase in portions added with vigorous stirring. Thereafter, with an Ultra-Turrax stirrer, a Beco or a Krieger mixer homogenized.

Example 3 hair gel

Wt .-% Glyceryl linoleates 1.9500 Sodium cocoyl glutamate 0.0500 Guar gum 0.7500 glycerin 17.4400 BHT 0.0100 Trisodium EDTA 0.5000 Fragrance (perfume) 0.0500 Propylparaben 0.1000 methylparaben 0.2500 Water (aqua) 78.9000

The oil phase comprises the particle former (s) and other fat-soluble additives. The Mixture is stirred until homogenous melt with heating.

The water phase comprises water, the water-soluble fragmenter and all others water-soluble additives. To the water phase at room temperature the warm oil phase is added in portions with vigorous stirring. After that will Homogenized with an Ultra-Turrax stirrer, a Beco or Krieger mixer.  

Example 4

Wt .-% Glyceryl linoleates 1.9500 Sodium cocoyl glutamate 0.0500 Locus Bean Gum 0.7500 glycerin 17.4400 BHT 0.0100 Trisodium EDTA 0.5000 Fragrance (perfume) 0.0500 Propylparaben 0.1000 methylparaben 0.2500 Water (aqua) 78.9000

The oil phase comprises the particle former (s) and other fat-soluble additives. Dis Mixture is stirred until homogenous melt with heating.

The water phase comprises water, the water-soluble fragmenter and all others water-soluble additives. To the water phase at room temperature the warm oil phase is added in portions with vigorous stirring. After that will Homogenized with an Ultra-Turrax stirrer, a Beco or Krieger mixer.

Example 5

Wt .-% Glyceryl linoleates 1.8000 Sodium cocoamphoacetate 0.6000 Xanthan gum 0.1500 Locus Bean Gum 0.6000 glycerin 17.4400 BHT 0.0100 Trisodium EDTA 0.5000 Fragrance (perfume) 0.0500 Propylparaben 0.1000 methylparaben 0.2500 Water (aqua) 78.5000

The oil phase comprises the particle former (s) and other fat-soluble additives. The Mixture is stirred until homogenous melt with heating.

The water phase comprises water, the water-soluble fragmenter and all others water-soluble additives. To the water phase at room temperature the warm oil phase is added in portions with vigorous stirring. After that will Homogenized with an Ultra-Turrax stirrer, a Beco or Krieger mixer.

Example 6

Wt .-% Glyceryl linoleates 1.9500 Sodium cocoyl glutamate 0.0500 Xanthan gum 0.7500 glycerin 17.4400 Trisodium EDTA 0.5000 tocopherol 0.0400 Fragrance (perfume) 0.0500 Propylparaben 0.1000 methylparaben 0.2500 Water (aqua) 78.8700

The oil phase comprises the particle former (s) and other fat-soluble additives. The Mixture is stirred until homogenous melt with heating.

The water phase comprises water, the water-soluble fragmenter and all others water-soluble additives. To the water phase at room temperature the warm oil phase is added in portions with vigorous stirring. After that will Homogenized with an Ultra-Turrax stirrer, a Beco or Krieger mixer.  

Example 7

Wt .-% Glyceryl linoleates 1.9200 Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate 0.0800 Xanthan gum 0.7500 BHT 0.0100 Trisodium EDTA 0.5000 Fragrance (perfume) 0.0500 Propylparaben 0.1000 methylparaben 0.2500 Water (aqua) 96.3400

The oil phase comprises the particle former or particles, and other fat-soluble additives, as well as the fragmenter. The mixture is submerged to homogeneous melt Heating stirred.

The water phase includes water and any other water-soluble additives. To the on Room temperature water phase is the warm oil phase in portions added with vigorous stirring. Thereafter, with an Ultra-Turrax stirrer, a Beco or a Krieger mixer homogenized.

Example 8

Wt .-% Glyceryl linoleates 1.9500 Sodium cocoyl glutamate 0.0500 Carbomer 0.3000 glycerin 0.5800 BHT 0.0100 Trisodium EDTA 0.5000 Fragrance (perfume) 0.0500 Propylparaben 0.1000 methylparaben 0.2500 Water (aqua) 96.2100

The oil phase comprises the particle former (s) and other fat-soluble additives. The Mixture is stirred until homogenous melt with heating.

The water phase comprises water, the water-soluble fragmenter and all others water-soluble additives. To the water phase at room temperature the warm oil phase is added in portions with vigorous stirring. After that will Homogenized with an Ultra-Turrax stirrer, a Beco or Krieger mixer.

Example 9 Low viscosity milk for hair treatment

Wt .-% Glyceryl linoleates 2.25 PEG-40 Stearates 0.75 Macadamia Ternifolia Seed Oil 12:06 glycerin 10:00 cholesterol 12:30 Preservation, antioxidants q.s. Aqua ad 100.00

The oil phase comprises the particle former or particles, and other fat-soluble additives, as well as the fragmenter. The mixture is submerged to homogeneous melt Heating stirred.

The water phase includes water and any other water-soluble additives. To the on Room temperature water phase is the warm oil phase in portions added with vigorous stirring. Thereafter, with an Ultra-Turrax stirrer, a Beco or a Krieger mixer homogenized.  

Example 10 Low-viscosity milk, (hair / scalp tonic)

Wt .-% Glyceryl Oleate 3.75 PEG-40 Stearates 1.25 Macadamia Ternifolia Seed Oil 12:10 glycerin 3:00 cholesterol 12:50 Preservation, antioxidants q.s. Aqua ad 100.00

The oil phase comprises the particle former or particles, and other fat-soluble additives, as well as the fragmenter. The mixture is submerged to homogeneous melt Heating stirred.

The water phase includes water and any other water-soluble additives. To the on Room temperature water phase is the warm oil phase in portions added with vigorous stirring. Thereafter, with an Ultra-Turrax stirrer, a Beco or a Krieger mixer homogenized.

Example 11 Hair / scalp care lotion

Wt .-% PEG-40 Stearates 1.25 Glyceryl linoleates 3.75 Macadamia Ternifolia Seed Oil 12:10 Sodium hyaluronate 0.60 glycerin 10:00 cholesterol 12:50 Preservation, antioxidants q.s. Aqua ad 100.00

The oil phase comprises the particle former (s) and other fat-soluble additives. The Mixture is stirred until homogenous melt with heating.  

The water phase comprises water, the water-soluble fragmenter and others water-soluble additives. To the water phase at room temperature is the warm oil phase added in portions with vigorous stirring. After that is with Homogenized in an Ultra-Turrax stirrer, Beco or Krieger mixer. The resulting dispersion is incorporated in the parallel thickener phase.

Example 12 Low-viscosity milk, (shine spray)

Weight% Glyceryl linoleates 2.25 PEG-25 stearates 0.75 Macadamia Ternifolia Seed Oil 12:06 glycerin 15:00 cholesterol 12:30 Preservation, antioxidants q.s. Aqua ad 100.00

The oil phase comprises the particle former or particles, and other fat-soluble additives, as well as the fragmenter. The mixture is submerged to homogeneous melt Heating stirred.

The water phase includes water and any other water-soluble additives. To the on Room temperature water phase is the warm oil phase in portions added with vigorous stirring. Thereafter, with an Ultra-Turrax stirrer, a Beco or a Krieger mixer homogenized.  

Example 13 Low viscosity milk, (Stay-in cure)

Wt .-% Decylglucoside 1:50 Glyceryl Oleate 3:50 Avocado oil 12:10 glycerin 5:00 cholesterol 12:20 lecithin 12:15 Preservation, antioxidants q.s. Aqua ad 100.00

The oil phase comprises the particle former (s) and other fat-soluble additives. The Mixture is stirred until homogenous melt with heating.

The water phase comprises water, the water-soluble fragmenter and others water-soluble additives. To the water phase at room temperature is the warm oil phase added in portions with vigorous stirring. After that is with Homogenized in an Ultra-Turrax stirrer, Beco or Krieger mixer.

Example 14 Antimicrobial hair tonic

Wt .-% sodium lauroyl 0200 glyceryl 4560 glycerin 15,000 2-butyl octanoic 0200 Preservation, antioxidants, perfume q.s. water ad 100,000

The oil phase comprises the particle former (s) and other fat-soluble additives. The Mixture is stirred until homogenous melt with heating.  

The water phase comprises water, the water-soluble fragmenter and others water-soluble additives. To the water phase at room temperature is the warm oil phase added in portions with vigorous stirring. After that is with Homogenized in an Ultra-Turrax stirrer, Beco or Krieger mixer.

Example 15 Low viscosity milk, (Stay-in cure)

Wt .-% Glyceryl linoleates 0.75 phytantriol 0.75 PEG-40 Stearates 1:50 glycerin 6:00 am Preservation, antioxidants q.s. Aqua ad 100.00

The oil phase comprises the particle former or particles, and other fat-soluble additives, as well as the fragmenter. The mixture is submerged to homogeneous melt Heating stirred.

The water phase includes water and any other water-soluble additives. To the on Room temperature water phase is the warm oil phase in portions added with vigorous stirring. Thereafter, with an Ultra-Turrax stirrer, a Beco or a Krieger mixer homogenized.

Claims (10)

1. Use of cosmetic or dermatological preparations with a content of disperse liquid crystals, which cubic phases

• a) a periodic membrane system comprising at least one particle and optionally one or more natural or synthetic lipids, and
• b) one or more water areas and
• c) represent one or more fragmentators,

and an additional salary

• a) one or more compatible with the components of a), b) and c) skin compatible additive (s) selected from the group consisting of cosmetic oils, sterols, phospholipids, polyols, Antioxi dantien and active ingredients

as a galenic base formulation for cosmetic or dermatological hair care geprodukte. 2. Use according to claim 1, characterized in that the or the Parti kelbildner be selected from the group, which is formed from phytantriol, unsaturated fatty acid monoglycerides such as glyceryl monooleate, Glyceryl monolinoleate, glyceryl monolinolenate, fatty acid diglycerides such as example, diglyceryldioleate or diglyceryldilinoleate, and / or mixtures of the above-mentioned substances. 3. Use according to one of the preceding claims, characterized net, that the particle or the particle formers are present in amounts of 0.01 to 50 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the cubic phases. 4. Use according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the one or more fragmenters are selected from the group of

• anionic surfactants (= anionic fragmenter),
• cationic surfactants (= cationic fragmenter),
• - amphoteric surfactants (= amphoteric fragmenter) and
• - nonionic surfactants (nonionic fragmenter).

5. Use according to one of the preceding claims, characterized net, that the one or more fragmenters are present in amounts of 0.01 to 45 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the cubic phases. 6. Use according to one of the preceding claims, characterized net, that the content of skin-compatible additives according to d) (one or more Rere compounds) in the preparations 0.01 to 20 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the preparation. 7. Use of cosmetic or dermatological preparations with a content of disperse liquid crystals, which cubic phases

• a) a periodic membrane system comprising at least one particle and optionally one or more natural or synthetic lipids, and
• b) one or more water areas and
• c) represent one or more fragmentators,

and an additional salary

• a) one or more compatible with the components of a), b) and c) skin compatible additive (s) selected from the group consisting of cosmetic oils, sterols, phospholipids, polyols, antioxidants Antanti and agents and
• b) one or more thickeners compatible with the components according to a), b), c) and d)

as a galenic base formulation for cosmetic or dermatological hair care geprodukte. 8. Use according to claim 7, characterized in that the total amount on one or more thickeners in the finished cosmetic or dermatolo gical preparation less than or equal to 3.0 wt .-%, preferably between 0.5 and 1.5% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation. 9. Use according to one of claims 7 or 8, characterized in that the thickener or thickeners from the group of hydrophobically modified wasserlösli  polymers such as PEG-150 distearate, xanthan gum, hydroxyethyl cellulose, Hydroxypropylmethylcellulose, cetylhydroxyethylcellulose, carboxymethylcellu loose, sodium carboxymethylcellulose and carbomers are chosen. 10. Use according to one of the preceding claims, characterized net, that the viscosity of this preparation is greater than 2,000 mPa.s, in particular between 2,000 and 10,000 mPa.s (determinable with a Haake Viskotester VT-02 at 25 ° C) is selected.