CN1326519A - Two-way warp knitted fabric - Google Patents
Two-way warp knitted fabric Download PDFInfo
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- CN1326519A CN1326519A CN99813300A CN99813300A CN1326519A CN 1326519 A CN1326519 A CN 1326519A CN 99813300 A CN99813300 A CN 99813300A CN 99813300 A CN99813300 A CN 99813300A CN 1326519 A CN1326519 A CN 1326519A
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
- D04B—KNITTING
- D04B21/00—Warp knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
- D04B—KNITTING
- D04B21/00—Warp knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
- D04B21/14—Fabrics characterised by the incorporation by knitting, in one or more thread, fleece, or fabric layers, of reinforcing, binding, or decorative threads; Fabrics incorporating small auxiliary elements, e.g. for decorative purposes
- D04B21/18—Fabrics characterised by the incorporation by knitting, in one or more thread, fleece, or fabric layers, of reinforcing, binding, or decorative threads; Fabrics incorporating small auxiliary elements, e.g. for decorative purposes incorporating elastic threads
Abstract
A two-way warp knitted fabric of warp knit structure prepared by cross-knitting a polytrimethylene terephthalate fiber as a front yarn and an elastomer fiber as a back yarn, which has a knitted fabric density ratio represented by the following formula (I): knitted fabric density ratio = number of course/2.54 cm / number of wale/2.54 cm of 1.55 to 2.35. This knitted fabric is a stretchable ground material of knitted fabric for clothes which is suppressed in curl, has a soft feeling and suffers no yellowing.
Description
Technical field
The present invention relates to the tricot that on 2 directions, demonstrates flexibility.
Background technology
Stockinette (knitted fabric) prolonging direction exists on warp-wise and broadwise, be called the tricot that bi-directional stretch fabrics (knitted fabric) (referring to " fiber brief guide " [the 2nd edition: fiber association opinion: the kind K.K. Hiranari of ball published on February 15th, 7] 139-140 page or leaf, the 139th page table 1.74, compile " rudimentary knowledge of fibre " Japanese dress material management association, 41-49 page or leaf [1985] referring to Japanese fiber management association) elastic yarn interweaves and be commonly referred to as two-way warp knitted fabric.Nylon fiber and elastomer interweave, the warp knitting fabrics that elastic yarn forms maille is used for following goods more: as pants, lingerie, suspenders, the brassiere that underwear is used, and the coating that the elasticity diving clothes of sporting swimming suit, skating anorak, diving usefulness, bicycle use pants, coat are used, the jacket of lamination process etc.The general two-way warp knitted fabric of using is respectively through the elongation of broadwise: warp-wise 100-300%, broadwise 50-200%.
NOX gas effect etc. easily made the fabric flavescence when tricot that the nylon elastic yarn interweaves existed HEAT SETTING processing in the distinctive shortcoming of nylon fiber, the dyeing processing or product keeping, owing to use ACID DYES, the metachromatism that chlorinated water causes can occur.In order to prevent these shortcomings, the method for the employing low temperature HEAT SETTING that has, have in order to reach the purpose that prevents the final products flavescence, adopt the method for complete closed packing, the employing sticking agent that has prevents the metachromatism that chlorinated water produces.The processing of product, the arrangement very loaded down with trivial details.
For the nylon fiber of avoiding using easy flavescence, meeting the easy variable color of chlorinated water, also tried out the two-way warp knitted fabric that utilizes pet fiber and elastomer to interweave.But adopt poly-ly during to stupid dioctyl phthalate glycol ester fiber, although can avoid the flavescence of fiber, the style of the distinctive softness of nylon fiber has also lost, the style hardening.In order to obtain soft fabric, adopt loose shape braiding, arrangement density is pine also, but can produce the shortcoming of crimping, can not obtain the fabric of soft style.
As everyone knows, polyester fiber that Young's modulus is low and pet fiber do not have the flavescence problem equally.
The knitted fabric defect of terminals of fabrics curling (crimping) appears in two elasticity tricots that the polytrimethylene terephthalate fiber constitutes especially easily.The appearance of crimping can reduce the working (machining) efficiency when making, and situation about can not process is also arranged sometimes.Generation when this rigidity that curl to be the fiber that braiding is entered makes the flexible balance of needle loop and sinker loop destroy on single surface of tricot as the power that makes the distortion that occurs when forming coil turn back to stable state, can adopt the density of knitted fabric to improve greatly in order to remove edge-curl phenomenon, but style hardening elasticity is reduced.In addition, other method has the hot property of utilizing fiber with the stability of about 180 ℃ HEAT SETTING controlling fiber.But when the HEAT SETTING of polytrimethylene terephthalate fiber was insufficient, the high-temperature shaping more than 180 ℃ can destroy flexible balance, thereby edge-curl phenomenon occurred.
The general introduction of invention
The purpose of this invention is to provide two-way warp knitted fabric.This kind two-way warp knitted fabric has solved aforesaid problem, and not flavescence has soft style, can substantially suppress the generation of edge-curl phenomenon with simple means.
The method that the present invention realizes is that the ratio of line number and the stringer number of tricot that the polyester fiber of polytrimethylene terephthalate and elastomer are interweaved is limited in the specific scope.
The feature of two-way warp knitted fabric of the present invention is the warp knitting fabrics that is interweaved and formed by front polytrimethylene terephthalate filament and back side elastomer silk.The density ratio of the tricot of following formula (1) expression is 1.55～2.35.
Below the present invention is described in more detail.
Polytrimethylene terephthalate fiber among the present invention is with the polyester fiber of propylene glycol ester terephthalate for main repetitive.The content of terephthaldehyde's acid propylene glycol unit will be at about 50 moles more than the %, and preferred 70 moles of % are above, more preferably 80 moles more than the %, and is preferred again more than 90 moles.Other remaining compositions, the total amount of hereinafter described sour composition and/or diol component are about 50 moles below the %, and preferred 30 moles below the %, more preferably 20 moles below the %, preferred again 10 moles below the %.
The polytrimethylene terephthalate fiber form, the long fiber staple fibre can, length direction evenly inhomogeneous can, the cross section can be the multiangular, Multiblade, hollow type, indefinite form of circle, triangle, L type, T type, Y type, W type, eight blade profiles, platypelloid type, dumbbell shape etc.Make underwear, sportswear or coat time spent, the profiled-cross-section fiber of the most handy long fiber, the uniform triangle of length direction etc.Filamentary fiber number can be that filament denier is 0.1～5.6 dtex.About 33～110 dtexs of the rugosity of yarn.
Polypropylene terephthalate's fiber is used for the form of the stocking yarn of two-way warp knitted fabric, can be textile strands such as ring spun yarn, open-end spinning, can be multifilament precursor (comprising extra fine filament), sweet twisted filament～-high twist yarn, combined yarn, false twist yarn (comprising POY drafting false twisting silk), fluid jet processing silk etc.Even, two-way warp knitted fabric of the present invention in the scope of not damaging purpose of the present invention, usually in the scope of quality 30% with wool be representative other fiber blends such as natural fabric (short bulk fibre or diffusing long filament (サ ィ ロ Off ィ Le) etc.), can adopt interlacing mix fine (high-shrinkage filament and different contractile filaments are mixed fibre etc.), hand over twist with the fingers, the gas of composit false twisting (elongation difference false twisting etc.), two feedings sprays processing thread etc. method uses with.
The elastomer that interweaves with the polytrimethylene terephthalate series fiber among the present invention, can be the elastic shrinkage sex expression be breaking ductility more than 100%, fiber number 11～78 dtexs, preferably any elastomer of the polyurethane series of 17～44 dtexs, polyether ester system etc.So long as common polyurethane series elastomer, there is no particular limitation for its condensate, spinning process.
Elastomer preferably adopts near common treatment temperature retractility 190 ℃ not have the condition of the fiber of damage in the processing of dyeing and finishing HEAT SETTING.The form of elastomer can be that there is no particular limitation to yarn (ベ ア silk), cladded yarn, twist yarn.
Two-way warp knitted fabric of the present invention, be that front at the warp knitting machine with a slice needle-bar is with the denting of polytrimethylene terephthalate fiber, the back side is the elastomer denting, the knitted fabric that the 2 sley bar tissues of coil that constitute with remain silent coil and/or open stich are woven into.Therefore two-way warp knitted fabric of the present invention is the tissue that can weave with 2 yarn guiding chase combs.Representational tissue has: two sley bar warp plain stitch, two sley bar are through suede tissue, half furrow tissue (aminanthine), the back side half furrow tissue, through suede tissue, satin tissue (サ テ Application), two sley bar satin.Two-way warp knitted fabric Telescopic and crimpiness are with organizing different altering a great deal.For example: below underlap 1 needle gage of positive covering weave is flimsy material, curls easily.Be heavy weave more than 3 needle gages, the style hardening, retractility is low.Broadwise does not have retractility during underlap 0 needle gage of back side tissue, and contact site in fabric and crosspoint place's dyeing and finishing added and can meet heat man-hour and merge the style hardening elastic yarn of adjacency each other when 2 needle gages were above.Therefore, the selection of underlap combination is satin, half furrow preferably, are more preferably half furrow tissue, but without limits.
Below the unqualified intention of expression is the example of preferred knit stitches.(1) sley bar 2 needle gage tissues in front are generally called half furrow knitted fabric
The half furrow tissue that front 10/23, the back side 12/10 (2) positive covering weave and back side tissue stagger
Half furrow of positive 10/23 back side 10/12 (3) open stich, the coil combination of remaining silent distortion
Positive 10/23 back side 21/01
The formation line number of the final knitted fabric unit are of the present invention is 1.55～2.35 with the knitted fabric density ratio that the ratio of columns is adjusted to formula (1) expression, can form the positive soft style that keeps polytrimethylene terephthalate fiber uniqueness, and the two-way warp knitted fabric that can suppress to curl.
Knitted fabric density is than the density ratio that is the knitted fabric after the dyeing arrangement among the present invention, must consider the fabric shrink after the fabric lopping when carrying out the knitted fabric design.This density is than being to represent with the number of turns of every 2.54cm, and the columns/2.54cm of warp-wise density is obtained with line number/2.54cm removal of latitudinal density.
Knitted fabric density is during than less than 1.55, and curling appears in end easily about the horizontal direction of two-way warp knitted fabric, and in addition, knitted fabric density occurs curling than the warp direction upper and lower end parts greater than 2.35 o'clock two-way warp knitted fabrics easily.Preferred knitted fabric density ratio is 1.65-2.25.
Utilize density of the present invention when carrying out the design of knitted fabric, the pin that changes knitting machine basically number also can reach purpose of the present invention.For example: the occasion of 28 pins, most preferred knitted fabric density ratio is: the occasion of the knitting machine of 1.56～1.93,36 pins, most preferred knitted fabric density ratio is: 1.85-2.35, pin number density of fine needle fabric more tend to become big than most preferred scope.
The method for designing of bidirectional elastic knitted fabric density ratio when 1.55～2.35 scopes are carried out the knitted fabric design is: for example: the length of the yarn feeding of elastic yarn during knitting lopping (ラ Application Na-) (is also referred to as the warp let-off, it is the length index that expression forms the silk of 1 coil, the coil that the big more expression of the fabric numeral of homologue forms is big more, is representing with the filament length of 480 row through the volume field) need be bigger than the amount in the knitted fabric that interweaves at nylon fiber, pet fiber and elastomer.And, the columns on braiding opportunity (during the expression lopping amount of curl row of the height marker knitted fabric of 1 coil more multilist show the density height.) need greatly.Two-way warp knitted fabric after knitting adopts 90 ℃ of 1 minute lax concise, during concise back pre-setting tentering, adopt nervous typing to make to shrink and be controlled at density of the present invention than within the scope, for fabric width, length after the just dyeing roughly are equal densities or employing and the same density ratio of HEAT SETTING is finally finalized the design, to obtain the fixed density ratio of designing institute, must design the yarn feeding length and the last machine columns of polytrimethylene terephthalate fiber and elastomer with this.
The condition of typing can be selected in 150～200 ℃, 30～60 seconds the condition and range.Preferably during pre-setting about 190 ℃, about 170 ℃, carry out when finally finalizing the design.Can obtain the tricot that constancy is good, dyefastness is no problem like this.About dyeing, can use dyeing machine arbitrarily, preferably use the liquid-flow dyeing machine that is not easy to produce dyeing defect.
Two-way warp knitted fabric of the present invention can use tricot warp knitting machine, Raschel looms.The pin of warp knitting machine number does not have special qualification.Can select the warp knitting machine of 18-40 pins/2.54cm according to the thickness of using fiber arbitrarily.
More than, by adjusting the density of tricot, overcome the phenomenon of crimping, and obtained soft style.The two-way warp knitted fabric that further can obtain there is not wash shrinkage, flatiron is shunk.
Knitted fabric density can utilize nylon fiber or pet fiber to make in the two-way warp knitted fabric front of 1.55-2.35.But, when using the knitted fabric density manufacturing of the scope of the invention, there is the problem of flavescence in the two-way warp knitted fabric of use nylon fiber, is the knitted fabric that can not be satisfied with, on the other hand, use the knitted fabric of pet fiber can only obtain the hard fabric of style.For the style softness, adopt loose weave to occur edge-curl phenomenon again.
The polytrimethylene terephthalate fiber that adopts among the present invention is set forth as the front, can be made of the copolymer of the 3rd monomer beyond the repetitive of polytrimethylene terephthalate.The 3rd monomer can be other the sour composition and/or terephthalic acid (TPA) and functional derivatives and 1, ammediol and the functional derivatives thereof of diol component.The polyester of this copolymer can be the copolymer of adding the 3rd monomer of suitable one or more in building-up process.In addition, can be the synthetic respectively back blending of polyester, nylon and polytrimethylene terephthalate beyond the polytrimethylene terephthalate such as polyethylene terephthalate, the polymer (core-sheath-type, " shoulder to shoulder " type etc.) of composite spinning.The 3rd monomer that adds can be an aliphatic dicarboxylic acid (ethanedioic acid, adipic acid etc.), alicyclic dicarboxylic acid's (cyclohexane dicarboxylic acid etc.), aromatic dicarboxylic acid (m benzene dicarboxylic acid, sulfoisophthalic acid sodium etc.), aliphatic diol (ethylene glycol, 1,2 propylene glycol, 1,4-butanediol etc.), alicyclic diol (cyclohexanedimethanol etc.), contain aromatic aliphatic diol (1, two (beta-hydroxy ethyoxyl) benzene of 4-etc.), PTMEG (polyethylene glycol, polypropylene glycol etc.), aliphatic hydroxyl carboxylic acid (ω-hydroxycaproic acid etc.), aromatic hydroxy-carboxylic (P-hydroxybenzoic acid etc.).In addition, having the polymer that forms the compound (benzoic acid etc. or glycerol etc.) of ester group functional group more than 1 or 3 also can use in substantial wire scope.
After the spinning process of polytrimethylene terephthalate fiber can adopt the winding speed that divides with 1500m/ to obtain undrawn yarn, the method of 2～3.5 times of draw-teistings, also can adopt the direct drawing process (stretch spinning method) of direct fabrics～draw-teisting, can also adopt winding speed 5000m/ to divide above high speed spinning method (coiling spin processes), adopt any method can.Antioxidant, fire retardant, antistatic additive, pigment, fluorescent whitening agent, infrared absorbent, defoamer that can contain the lubricant, hindered phenol derivative etc. of the agent of one-tenth nucleus, ア ェ ロ ジ Le etc. of the ultra-violet absorber, talcum etc. of the stabilizing agent, hydroxyl benzophenone derivant etc. of the delustering agent, phosphoric acid etc. of titanium dioxide etc. during the polytrimethylene terephthalate fibre spinning etc. carries out spinning.
The optimal morphology that carries out an invention
Further know by the following examples and set forth imagination of the present invention.But the embodiment that the invention is not restricted to put down in writing.And the evaluation method of the fiber number determination method of the autofrettage of used fiber, elastomer, two-way warp knitted fabric performance is as described below among the embodiment.(1) manufacture method of the polytrimethylene terephthalate fiber of Shi Yonging
The polytrimethylene terephthalate of η sp/c=0.8 is obtained undrafting wire under 265 ℃ of spinning temperatures, spinning speed 1200m/ branch condition, then draw-teisting under the condition that 60 ℃ of heat roller temperatures, 140 ℃ of hot plate temperatures, 3 times of draw ratios, draw speed 800m/ divide obtains two kinds of drawn yarns of 40dtex/34f and 56d/36f.The intensity of 40d/34f drawn yarn, ductility, the elastic restoration ratio when initial stage fracture strength and 10% is extended are respectively 2.7cN/dtex, 44%, 25cN/dtex and 97%.The intensity of 56d/36f drawn yarn, ductility, the elastic restoration ratio when elastic modelling quantity and 10% extends are respectively 2.8cN/dtex, 46%, 26cN/dtex and 98%.Wherein the elastic restoration ratio assay method of 10% elongation is: the initial load that applies 0.01cN/dtex on test portion, be stretched to 10% elongation with a certain proportion of speed of per minute 20% elongation after, make its contraction with same speed, load-deformation curve draws, during stress is reduced to initial load equates in shrinking 0.01cN/dtex, residual elongation L can calculate with following formula.
Elastic restoration ratio=(10-L)/10 * 100 (%) during 10% elongation
The assay method of degree of polymerization viscosities il sp/c is that polymer is being dissolved under 90 ℃ of conditions in the orthomonochlorphenol solution of 1g/dL in addition, the solution that obtains is moved in Ostwald's viscosity tube (capillary) then, measures under 35 ℃ of conditions, calculates by following formula.(wherein: T: the time [second] that sample solution falls, C: solution concentration [g/dL])
The mensuration of η sp/c=(T/T0-1)/C (2) elastomer fiber number
Under the condition of 20 ℃ of temperature, relative humidity 65%RH, make that elastomer is in no tension force, zero load, linear state is lax leaves standstill.Thereafter, get 10 on the long sample of 1m and weigh, be converted into the weight of 10000m, this value is the fiber number of fiber.(3) among the embodiment two-way warp knitted fabric in order to down method evaluation.
[1] evaluation of curling phenomenon
Get two on two-way warp knitted fabric warp-wise 100mm * broadwise 100mm square sample, with sample needle loop face and sinker loop on the quiet platform that is placed under 20 ℃ of temperature, relative humidity 65% condition of last expansion.Curl situation according to following standard rating through the limit portion of sample after 4 hours.Add that at the position of rolling the calibration instrument tries to achieve the angle that forms between fabric ends wiring and horizontal stand.Angle is made when using and can be gone wrong when 90 degree are above.
The 5 angle deficiencies of curling, 30 degree
The 4 angle deficiencies of curling, 45 degree
The 3 angle deficiencies of curling, 90 degree
The 2 angle deficiencies of curling, 130 degree
More than 1 angle of curling, 130 degree
[2] evaluation of style
Mean value according to the feel of 10 people groups is evaluated.
To use the fabric feeling of same tissue of nylon as the benchmark of estimating style.The fabric that pliability is good comprehensively is divided into the 4-5 branch, does not have be decided to be 3 fens of what variation, and the fabric of difference is decided to be the 2-1 branch.
Judge with following benchmark according to feel.
Style was extremely soft in 5 minutes, and smooth
Style was soft and smooth in 4 minutes
Style was with suitable with the nylon fabrics of tissue in 3 minutes
Style was hard in 2 minutes
Style was hard in 1 minute, was not suitable for makeing underwear
[3] evaluation of flavescence
Sample is prepared according to the weak test method of JIS-L-0855 nitrogen oxide gas dyefastness.Decision method is to compare according to yellow chromaticity YI value and untreated sample that Ma Gupeisi (マ Network ベ ス) colour examining machine (Ma Gupeisi corporate system) is measured.The YI value is big more to show that flavescence is big.
[4] evaluation of HEAT SETTING
Adopt the HEAT SETTING testing machine of ダ ィ ト company.The square fabric of each 300mm of clip longitude and latitude is a sample, under the condition that does not add tension force, sample is fixed on the ryce, (through 200mm latitude 200mm) is after the central part of sample is pressed into heated mold, put into 20 ℃ of temperature, under the environment of relative humidity 60%, place the variation of the style of 24 hours post-evaluation deflections and fabric.
The kind ダ ィ ト corporate system drawing and setting machine of HEAT SETTING testing machine
The shape metal rounding post of heating mould
(the high 30cm of diameter 50em)
180 ℃ of temperature
30 seconds time
Compression distance 20mm
Evaluation criteria
Above and the not variation of style of good deflection 18mm
Not enough 18mm of bad deflection and style change
The evaluation of [5] fluffing property
Use the KU-50 type fluffing property testing machine of golden well important meals corporate system.The uniformity when estimating the fluffing of sedimentation cambered surface under the condition of coil fluffing usefulness and the thickness of mensuration fabric.The big more fabric of evaluation root thickness represents that fluffing property is good.(embodiment 1)
The polytrimethylene terephthalate of 40dtex/34f is used in the front, what used at the back side is polyurethanes elastomer (Asahi Chemical Industry's industry (strain) corporate system of 22dtex, trade name ロ ィ カ) elastomer of warping under the condition of degree of draft 80% is made into half furrow tissue.
Knitting machine: section's knitting machine in 28 pins/2.54cm spy (カ-Le マ ィ ャ-company)
Tissue: front 10/23, the back side 12/10
Yarn feeding length: the 160mm back side, front 90mm
Columns on the machine: 76 row/2.54cm
The knitted fabric that obtains under this braiding condition carries out 90 ℃ of 1 minute concise, 190 ℃ of pre-settings of 45 seconds.Density setting during pre-setting is that the density ratio of setting columns/line number is 1.83.Utilize liquid-flow dyeing machine to dye after the HEAT SETTING.Thereafter, identical 110 row/2.54cm with pre-setting, 60 row/2.54cm are to finalize the design at last in fixed length tentering ground.This final tricot grammes per square metre is 170g/m
2, thickness 0.61mm.Its various rerum naturas are estimated, and the result is illustrated in the table 1.The not flavescence of two-way warp knitted fabric that obtains, style softness, do not produce the phenomenon of crimping, and mouldability is good, is best suited for the tricot that underwear is used.(embodiment 2-5)
Relatively embodiment 1 shortens positive yarn feeding and makes highdensity fabric, and the density ratio of the row/row of setting is 1.93, in addition with the embodiment 1 making sample that is as the criterion.Embodiment 3 is relative embodiment 1 with the elongated fabric that reduces density of making of the yarn feeding in front, and the density ratio of the row/row of setting is 1.55, is benchmark making sample with embodiment 1 in addition.To be relative embodiment 1 with the yarn feeding of fabric backing shorten embodiment 4 makes highdensity fabric, and the density ratio of the columns/line number of setting is 1.81, is that benchmark is made sample with embodiment 1 in addition.Embodiment 5 is that relative embodiment 1 is elongated with the reverse side yarn feeding of fabric, is made into low-density fabric, and the density ratio of the columns/line number of setting is 1.70, is that benchmark is made sample with embodiment 1 in addition.Respectively above final knitted fabric is carried out crimpiness, style, flavescence, mouldability and estimate, its result is illustrated in the table 1.
Final not flavescence of two-way warp knitted fabric, style softness, do not have edge-curl phenomenon, mouldability is good, is best suited for the tricot of using as underwear.(comparative example 1)
Embodiment 1 shortens the yarn feeding length of back side denting relatively, makes highdensity fabric.The density ratio of the columns/line number the during pre-setting set is 2.37, changes the density of final fabric, is that benchmark is made final knitting sample with embodiment 1 in addition, estimates it and crimping, style, flavescence, mouldability etc. occur.Its result is illustrated in the table 1.The not flavescence of two-way warp knitted fabric that obtains, style are soft similar to nylon, but the phenomenon of crimping occurred, are to be not suitable for makeing the tricot that underwear is used.(comparative example 2)
Embodiment 1 shortens the yarn feeding length of positive denting relatively, makes low density fabric.The density ratio of the columns/line number during HEAT SETTING is set in 1.5, has changed the density of final fabric.Be that benchmark is made sample with embodiment 1 in addition, estimate edge-rolling, style, flavescence, mouldability to occur that its result is illustrated in the table 1.
Not flavescence of two-way warp knitted fabric that obtains and style softness, but owing to edge-curl phenomenon occurs, be the tricot that is unsuitable for being used in underwear.In addition, the mouldability of this knitted fabric is also poor.(embodiment 6)
The polytrimethylene terephthalate fiber of 40dtex/34f is done the front, and the back side is made into half furrow tissue with the polyurethanes elastomer (Asahi Chemical Industry's industry (strain) system, trade name ロ ィ カ) of degree of draft warping under 80% condition of 22dtex.
Section's knitting machine in knitting machine 36 pins/2.54cm spy
Positive 10/23 back side 12/10 of fabric tissue
The positive 126mm back side 76mm of yarn feeding length
Columns 80 row/2.54cm on the machine
Fabric is carried out 90 ℃ of 1 minute lax concise, 190 ℃ of 45 seconds pre-settings.Density during pre-setting is set at: the density of columns/line number is than 2.25,180 row/2.54cm * 80 row/2.54cm.Dye with liquid-flow dyeing machine after the HEAT SETTING.Adopt the condition 157 row/2.54cms * 70 row/2.54cms identical to finalize the design at last with pre-setting thereafter.The grammes per square metre of the two-way warp knitted fabric that obtains is 138g/m
2, thickness 0.51mm.The evaluation result of the various rerum naturas of this fabric is illustrated in the table 1.(embodiment 7-8)
The positive length with back side yarn feeding of embodiment 6 embodiment, 7 shortenings is made fabric closely relatively.The positive length with back side yarn feeding of embodiment 8 lengthenings is made loose fabric.The density of columns/line number becomes 2.35 and 1.85 than setting during pre-setting.Changed the density of last fabric.Be the sample that benchmark prepares final fabric with embodiment 6 in addition.Final sample is appearred in the evaluation of crimpiness, style, flavescence, mouldability.Its result is illustrated in the table 1.The not flavescence of two-way warp knitted fabric that obtains, style softness, and do not produce the phenomenon of crimping, mouldability is good, is to make the optimum tricot that underwear, swimming suit are used.(comparative example 3)
The density ratio of the columns/line number the when length of relative embodiment 6 reduction yarn feedings, pre-setting is set at 1.54, has changed the density of last fabric, is that benchmark is made sample with embodiment 6 in addition.Final sample is appearred in the evaluation of crimpiness, style, flavescence, mouldability.Its result is illustrated in the table 1.The not flavescence of two-way warp knitted fabric that obtains, style softness, but the phenomenon of crimping produced, be the tricot that is not suitable for using.(comparative example 4)
Embodiment 6 shortens the length of back side yarn feeding relatively, makes highdensity fabric, and the density ratio of the row/row when improving pre-setting is set at 2.38.Having changed the density of last fabric, is that benchmark is made sample with embodiment 6 in addition.Final sample is appearred in the evaluation of crimpiness, style, flavescence, mouldability.Its result is illustrated in the table 1.The not flavescence of two-way warp knitted fabric that obtains, style softness, but the phenomenon of crimping produced, and insufficient formability is the tricot that is not suitable for using.(embodiment 9)
The polytrimethylene terephthalate fiber of 56dtex/36f is done the front, and the back side is made into half furrow tissue with the polyurethanes elastomer (Asahi Chemical Industry's industry (strain) system, trade name ロ ィ カ) of degree of draft warping under 80% condition of 44dtex.
Section's knitting machine in knitting machine 28 pins/2.54cm spy
Positive 10/23 back side 12/10 of fabric tissue
The positive 165mm back side 80mm of yarn feeding length
Columns 81 row/2.54cm on the machine
Fabric is carried out 90 ℃ of 1 minute lax concise, 190 ℃ of 45 seconds pre-settings.Density during pre-setting is set at: the density of columns/line number is than 1.92,115 row/2.54cm * 60 row/2.54cm.Dye with liquid-flow dyeing machine after the HEAT SETTING.Thereafter adopt and pre-setting same column/2.54cm, identical row/2.54cm finalizes the design at last.Obtain two-way warp knitted fabric.The grammes per square metre of this knitted fabric is 227g/m
2, thickness 0.66mm.The evaluation result of its various rerum naturas is illustrated in the table 1.
Final not flavescence of two-way warp knitted fabric, style softness, do not have edge-curl phenomenon, also mouldability is good, and fluffing property is good, is best suited for doing the tricot that underwear, swimming suit are used.(comparative example 5)
Nylon fiber with 56dtex/36f is made front, other condition and the embodiment 9 identical fabrics that are woven into.Evaluation table to the fabric that obtains is shown in the table 1.The phenomenon of crimping has also appearred in the style softness of fabric, but easily flavescence, insufficient formability, and the lack of homogeneity during fluffing is unworkable fabric.(comparative example 6)
Pet fiber with 56dtex/36f is made front, other condition and the embodiment 9 identical fabrics that are woven into.
Evaluation table to the fabric that obtains is shown in the table 1.This not flavescence of fabric, the phenomenon of curling do not occur, but style is hard.The good moldability of fabric, but fluffing property is poor, is not suitable for doing underwear, swimming suit is used.(embodiment 10)
Polytrimethylene terephthalate fiber with 56dtex/36f is done the front, and the back side is made into half furrow tissue with the polyurethanes elastomer (Asahi Chemical Industry's industry (strain) system, trade name ロ ィ カ) of degree of draft warping under 80% condition of 44dtex.
Section's knitting machine fabric tissue in knitting machine 28 pins/2.54cm spy
Positive 10/23 back side 12/10 of fabric tissue
The positive 206mm back side 80mm of yarn feeding length
Columns 81 row/2.54cm on the machine
Fabric is carried out 90 ℃ of 1 minute lax concise, 190 ℃ of 45 seconds pre-settings.Density during pre-setting is set at: the density of columns/line number is than 1.88,113 row/2.54cm * 60 row/2.54cm.Dye with liquid-flow dyeing machine after the HEAT SETTING.Thereafter adopt and HEAT SETTING same column/2.54cm, identical row/2.54cm finalizes the design at last.Obtain two-way warp knitted fabric.The grammes per square metre of this knitted fabric is 250g/m
2, thickness 0.70mm.Carry out the evaluation of various rerum naturas, the result is illustrated in the table 1.
Final not flavescence of two-way warp knitted fabric, style softness, do not have edge-curl phenomenon, and mouldability is good, fluffing property is good, is best suited for doing the tricot that underwear, swimming suit are used.(embodiment 11)
Polytrimethylene terephthalate fiber with 56dtex/36f is done the front, and the back side is made into half furrow tissue with the polyurethanes elastomer (Asahi Chemical Industry's industry (strain) system, trade name ロ ィ カ) of degree of draft warping under 80% condition of 44dtex.
Section's knitting machine in knitting machine 28 pins/2.54cm spy
Positive 10/45 back side 12/10 of fabric tissue
The positive 250mm back side 80mm of yarn feeding length
Columns 81 row/2.54cm on the machine
Fabric is carried out 90 ℃ of 1 minute lax concise, 190 ℃ of 45 seconds pre-settings.Density during pre-setting is set at: the density of columns/line number is than 1.88,110 row/2.54cm * 60 row/2.54cm.Dye with liquid-flow dyeing machine after the HEAT SETTING.Thereafter adopt and pre-setting same column/2.54cm, identical row/2.54cm finalizes the design at last.Obtain two-way warp knitted fabric.The grammes per square metre of this knitted fabric is 280g/m
2, thickness 0.72mm.Carry out the evaluation of various rerum naturas, the result is illustrated in the table 1.
Final not flavescence of two-way warp knitted fabric, style softness and do not have edge-curl phenomenon, moulding, fluffing property is good, is best suited for doing the elasticity tricot that underwear, swimming suit are used.(comparative example 7)
Nylon fiber with 56dtex/36f is made front, other condition and the embodiment 10 identical fabrics that are woven into.To the style softness of the fabric that obtains, but flavescence easily, the phenomenon of crimping has also appearred, can not get the sufficient degree of depth, insufficient formability, fluffing property is poor, is unworkable knitted fabric.(comparative example 8)
Pet fiber with 56dtex/36f is made front, other condition and the embodiment 10 identical fabrics that are woven into.This fabric formability is good, but fluffing property is poor, and style is hard, is unfavorable knitted fabric.(comparative example 9)
Do positively with the pet fiber of 56dtex/36f,, make the fabric that pine is organized with the length of example 6 lengthening front coils relatively with backside loop.Density during pre-setting is set at 94 row/2.54cm and 60 row/2.54cm, other and the embodiment 9 identical fabrics that are woven into.
The evaluation table of final fabric is shown in the table 1.This not flavescence of fabric, style have still lost the distinctive soft and smooth sense of nylon than comparative example 6 softnesses.Mouldability, fluffing character are poor, occur to curl, and be the tricot that is not suitable for doing underwear, swimming suit.
Table 1 knitted fabric constitutes fiber, braiding condition, property amount and performance evaluation
| Use kinds of fibers (F) | Pin root/2.5cm | Yarn feeding length | The property amount of knitted fabric | Style | Play crimpiness | Xanthochromia YI value poor | Mouldability | Fluffing property | ||||||||||
| Fiber | Fiber number dtex | Amplitude | (F) the rigid fiber of mm | (B) mm elastomer | Grammes per square metre g/m 2 | Thickness mm | ??C/ ??2.5 ??cm | ???W/ ???2.5 ???cm | C/W density ratio | Thickness | Uniformity | |||||||
| Embodiment | ??1 | ????PTT | ???40 | 2 pins | ???28 | ??160 | ???90 | ??170 | ??0.61 | ??110 | ???60 | ???1.83 | ??5 | ??5 | ????0.6 | ???○ | ???- | ??- |
| ??2 | ????PTT | ???40 | 2 pins | ???28 | ??155 | ???90 | ??158 | ??0.57 | ??116 | ???60 | ???1.93 | ??5 | ??5 | ????0.6 | ???○ | ???- | ??- | |
| ??3 | ????PTT | ???40 | 2 pins | ???28 | ??170 | ???90 | ??190 | ??0.64 | ???94 | ???60 | ???1.55 | ??4 | ??4 | ????0.6 | ???○ | ???- | ??- | |
| ??4 | ????PTT | ???40 | 2 pins | ???28 | ??160 | ???80 | ??181 | ??0.62 | ??109 | ???60 | ???1.81 | ??5 | ??5 | ????0.6 | ???○ | ???- | ??- | |
| ??5 | ????PTT | ???40 | 2 pins | ???28 | ??160 | ???95 | ??177 | ??0.65 | ??102 | ???60 | ???1.70 | ??5 | ??5 | ????0.6 | ???○ | ???- | ??- | |
| ??6 | ????PTT | ???40 | 2 pins | ???36 | ??126 | ???76 | ??138 | ??0.51 | ??180 | ???80 | ???2.25 | ??5 | ??5 | ????0.6 | ???○ | ???- | ??- | |
| ??7 | ????PTT | ???40 | 2 pins | ???36 | ??122 | ???75 | ??149 | ??0.56 | ??188 | ???80 | ???2.35 | ??5 | ??4 | ????0.6 | ???○ | ???- | ??- | |
| ??8 | ????PTT | ???40 | 2 pins | ???36 | ??135 | ???80 | ??135 | ??0.51 | ??148 | ???80 | ???1.85 | ??5 | ??5 | ????0.6 | ???○ | ???- | ??- | |
| ??9 | ????PTT | ???56 | 2 pins | ???28 | ??165 | ???80 | ??227 | ??0.66 | ??115 | ???60 | ???1.92 | ??5 | ??5 | ????0.6 | ???○ | ??0.78 | ??○ | |
| ??10 | ????PTT | ???56 | 3 pins | ???28 | ??190 | ???80 | ??250 | ??0.70 | ??113 | ???60 | ???1.88 | ??4 | ??5 | ????0.6 | ???○ | ??0.83 | ??○ | |
| ??11 | ????PTT | ???56 | 4 pins | ???28 | ??220 | ???80 | ??280 | ??0.72 | ??110 | ???60 | ???1.83 | ??4 | ??5 | ????0.6 | ???○ | ???- | ??- | |
| Comparative example | ??1 | ????PTT | ???40 | 2 pins | ???28 | ??160 | ???70 | ??191 | ??0.67 | ??142 | ???60 | ???2.37 | ??3 | ??1 | ????0.6 | ???○ | ???- | ??- |
| ??2 | ????PTT | ???40 | 2 pins | ???28 | ??186 | ???90 | ??162 | ??0.58 | ???91 | ???60 | ???1.52 | ??4 | ??2 | ????0.6 | ???× | ???- | ??- | |
| ??3 | ????PTT | ???40 | 2 pins | ???36 | ??141 | ???98 | ??132 | ??0.50 | ??123 | ???80 | ???1.54 | ??3 | ??1 | ????0.6 | ???○ | ???- | ??- | |
| ??4 | ????PTT | ???40 | 2 pins | ???36 | ??120 | ???71 | ??155 | ??0.58 | ??190 | ???80 | ???2.38 | ??4 | ??2 | ????0.6 | ???× | ???- | ??- | |
| ??5 | ????NY | ???40 | 2 pins | ???28 | ??160 | ???90 | ??161 | ??0.67 | ??110 | ???60 | ???1.83 | ??3 | ??1 | ???10.4 | ???× | ??0.77 | ??× | |
| ??6 | ????PET | ???40 | 2 pins | ???28 | ??160 | ???90 | ??162 | ??0.68 | ??115 | ???60 | ???1.92 | ??1 | ??4 | ????0.6 | ???○ | ??0.70 | ??× | |
| ??7 | ????NY | ???56 | 3 pins | ???28 | ??190 | ???80 | ??251 | ??0.71 | ??113 | ???60 | ???1.88 | ??3 | ??1 | ???10.4 | ???× | ??0.80 | ??× | |
| ??8 | ????PET | ???56 | 3 pins | ???28 | ??190 | ???80 | ??253 | ??0.70 | ??112 | ???60 | ???1.87 | ??1 | ??4 | ????0.6 | ???○ | ??0.75 | ??× | |
| ??9 | ????PET | ???56 | 2 pins | ???28 | ??170 | ???90 | ??130 | ??0.64 | ???94 | ???60 | ???1.56 | ??3 | ??1 | ????0.6 | ???× | ??0.70 | ??× | |
The possibility of utilizing on the industry
Not flavescence of two-way warp knitted fabric of the present invention, style are soft, have the surface of the unavailable uniqueness of nylon fiber, and are the WARP-KNITTINGs that can suppress a crimping, so the serviceability of making etc. is good. It is the WARP-KNITTING that is suitable for makeing the retractility that gym suit, the coats such as underwear, swimming suit use most.
Claims (3)
1. two-way warp knitted fabric is characterized in that: front polytrimethylene terephthalate fiber and the back side elastomer formation warp knitting fabrics that interweaves, the knitted fabric density ratio of representing with following formula is 1.55～2.35.(formula)
2. the two-way warp knitted fabric of claim 1 record, the back side is that elastic yarn forms needle loop.
3. the two-way warp knitted fabric of claim 1 record, warp knitting fabrics is half furrow tissue.
Applications Claiming Priority (4)
| Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
|---|---|---|---|
| JP325338/1998 | 1998-11-16 | ||
| JP32533898 | 1998-11-16 | ||
| JP78937/1999 | 1999-03-24 | ||
| JP7893799 | 1999-03-24 |
Publications (1)
| Publication Number | Publication Date |
|---|---|
| CN1326519A true CN1326519A (en) | 2001-12-12 |
Family
ID=26419986
Family Applications (1)
| Application Number | Title | Priority Date | Filing Date |
|---|---|---|---|
| CN99813300A Pending CN1326519A (en) | 1998-11-16 | 1999-11-16 | Two-way warp knitted fabric |
Country Status (6)
| Country | Link |
|---|---|
| EP (1) | EP1152079A1 (en) |
| JP (1) | JP3231306B2 (en) |
| KR (1) | KR100385783B1 (en) |
| CN (1) | CN1326519A (en) |
| AU (1) | AU1181500A (en) |
| WO (1) | WO2000029653A1 (en) |
Cited By (7)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| CN1324181C (en) * | 2005-09-20 | 2007-07-04 | 王启明 | Poly fleece textile using polypropylene glycol terephthalate as material and its production method |
| CN1962983B (en) * | 2006-12-14 | 2011-04-13 | 王启明 | Method for making polar fleece fabrics with polypropylene as raw materials and products thereof |
| CN1953674B (en) * | 2004-05-06 | 2011-09-07 | 华哥尔株式会社 | Garment |
| CN101619199B (en) * | 2008-07-03 | 2012-11-28 | 李俊辉 | Manufacture technique of easy tear tape |
| CN103097598A (en) * | 2010-08-03 | 2013-05-08 | 全球商标有限责任公司 | Fabric with equal modulus in multiple directions |
| CN103205859A (en) * | 2012-01-16 | 2013-07-17 | 杜邦公司 | Warp knitting fabric comprising polytrimethylene terephthalate |
| CN109415856A (en) * | 2016-08-31 | 2019-03-01 | 东丽纤维研究所（中国）有限公司 | A kind of fabric with movement tracing ability |
Families Citing this family (13)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| US6576340B1 (en) | 1999-11-12 | 2003-06-10 | E. I. Du Pont De Nemours And Company | Acid dyeable polyester compositions |
| TR200103145T1 (en) | 2000-03-03 | 2002-08-21 | E. I. Du Pont De Nemours & Company | Poly (trimethylene terephthalate) yarn. |
| US6383632B2 (en) | 2000-03-03 | 2002-05-07 | E. I. Du Pont De Nemours And Company | Fine denier yarn from poly (trimethylene terephthalate) |
| US6287688B1 (en) | 2000-03-03 | 2001-09-11 | E. I. Du Pont De Nemours And Company | Partially oriented poly(trimethylene terephthalate) yarn |
| KR20020001924A (en) * | 2000-06-08 | 2002-01-09 | 조 정 래 | Manufacture of polyester warp knitted fabric |
| JP3869415B2 (en) * | 2001-07-04 | 2007-01-17 | 旭化成せんい株式会社 | Warp knitted fabric |
| JP4129506B2 (en) * | 2001-11-13 | 2008-08-06 | インビスタ テクノロジーズ エス エイ アール エル | Heat set method |
| US6688143B2 (en) * | 2001-12-05 | 2004-02-10 | Milliken & Company | Elastomeric knit fabric with antiflame properties |
| WO2004001112A1 (en) * | 2002-06-21 | 2003-12-31 | Asahi Kasei Fibers Corporation | Cloth |
| CA2592150C (en) | 2004-12-24 | 2012-03-13 | Okamoto Industries, Inc. | Synthetic resin leather |
| JP2008144288A (en) * | 2006-12-07 | 2008-06-26 | Teijin Fibers Ltd | Polyester warp knitted fabric, method for producing the same, and fiber product |
| ATE431867T1 (en) * | 2007-01-05 | 2009-06-15 | Carvico S P A | METHOD FOR PRODUCING AN ELASTIC, STRENGTH TEXTILE |
| US20120297840A1 (en) * | 2011-05-24 | 2012-11-29 | Solid Ally International Limited | Warp knitted fabric and method of manufacturing the same |
Family Cites Families (4)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| US3069885A (en) * | 1959-03-16 | 1962-12-25 | Du Pont | Knitted fabric |
| JPS58104216A (en) * | 1981-12-14 | 1983-06-21 | Teijin Ltd | Preparation of polytrimethylene terephthalate fiber |
| DE3309311A1 (en) * | 1983-03-16 | 1984-09-20 | Bayer Ag, 5090 Leverkusen | BI-ELASTIC CHAINWEAR AND THEIR PRODUCTION |
| JPH1181096A (en) * | 1997-07-08 | 1999-03-26 | Asahi Chem Ind Co Ltd | Knit fabric of interknitting |
-
1999
- 1999-11-16 WO PCT/JP1999/006399 patent/WO2000029653A1/en not_active Application Discontinuation
- 1999-11-16 EP EP99972270A patent/EP1152079A1/en not_active Withdrawn
- 1999-11-16 KR KR10-2001-7005791A patent/KR100385783B1/en not_active IP Right Cessation
- 1999-11-16 AU AU11815/00A patent/AU1181500A/en not_active Abandoned
- 1999-11-16 CN CN99813300A patent/CN1326519A/en active Pending
- 1999-11-16 JP JP2000582628A patent/JP3231306B2/en not_active Expired - Lifetime
Cited By (12)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| CN1953674B (en) * | 2004-05-06 | 2011-09-07 | 华哥尔株式会社 | Garment |
| CN1324181C (en) * | 2005-09-20 | 2007-07-04 | 王启明 | Poly fleece textile using polypropylene glycol terephthalate as material and its production method |
| CN1962983B (en) * | 2006-12-14 | 2011-04-13 | 王启明 | Method for making polar fleece fabrics with polypropylene as raw materials and products thereof |
| CN101619199B (en) * | 2008-07-03 | 2012-11-28 | 李俊辉 | Manufacture technique of easy tear tape |
| CN103097598A (en) * | 2010-08-03 | 2013-05-08 | 全球商标有限责任公司 | Fabric with equal modulus in multiple directions |
| US8726700B2 (en) | 2010-08-03 | 2014-05-20 | Global Trademarks, Llc | Fabric with equal modulus in multiple directions |
| CN105696184A (en) * | 2010-08-03 | 2016-06-22 | 全球商标有限责任公司 | Fabric with equal modulus in multiple directions |
| CN103097598B (en) * | 2010-08-03 | 2016-09-07 | 全球商标有限责任公司 | There is the fabric of equal modulus in a plurality of directions |
| USRE47397E1 (en) | 2010-08-03 | 2019-05-21 | Global Trademarks, Llc | Fabric with equal modulus in multiple directions |
| CN103205859A (en) * | 2012-01-16 | 2013-07-17 | 杜邦公司 | Warp knitting fabric comprising polytrimethylene terephthalate |
| CN103205859B (en) * | 2012-01-16 | 2014-08-06 | 杜邦公司 | Warp knitting fabric comprising polytrimethylene terephthalate |
| CN109415856A (en) * | 2016-08-31 | 2019-03-01 | 东丽纤维研究所（中国）有限公司 | A kind of fabric with movement tracing ability |
Also Published As
| Publication number | Publication date |
|---|---|
| KR20010100992A (en) | 2001-11-14 |
| EP1152079A1 (en) | 2001-11-07 |
| WO2000029653A1 (en) | 2000-05-25 |
| AU1181500A (en) | 2000-06-05 |
| JP3231306B2 (en) | 2001-11-19 |
| KR100385783B1 (en) | 2003-06-02 |
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