CN101357113A - Use of lipophilic extract of long-eared odontoid algae in skin regeneration, combination and cosmetic method using the extract - Google Patents

Use of lipophilic extract of long-eared odontoid algae in skin regeneration, combination and cosmetic method using the extract Download PDF

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Publication number
CN101357113A
CN101357113A CNA2008101357966A CN200810135796A CN101357113A CN 101357113 A CN101357113 A CN 101357113A CN A2008101357966 A CNA2008101357966 A CN A2008101357966A CN 200810135796 A CN200810135796 A CN 200810135796A CN 101357113 A CN101357113 A CN 101357113A
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skin
eared
long
sargassum
dentate
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CN101357113B (en
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杰勒德·雷济尼克
戴尔芬·东吉
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Amorepacific Corp
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PACIFIC CREATION SOC PAR ACTIO
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    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/96Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
    • A61K8/99Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution from microorganisms other than algae or fungi, e.g. protozoa or bacteria
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00Preparations for care of the skin
    • A61Q19/08Anti-ageing preparations
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/04Dispersions; Emulsions
    • A61K8/06Emulsions
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/14Liposomes; Vesicles
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/73Polysaccharides
    • A61K8/738Cyclodextrins
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61PSPECIFIC THERAPEUTIC ACTIVITY OF CHEMICAL COMPOUNDS OR MEDICINAL PREPARATIONS
    • A61P17/00Drugs for dermatological disorders
    • A61P17/16Emollients or protectives, e.g. against radiation
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61PSPECIFIC THERAPEUTIC ACTIVITY OF CHEMICAL COMPOUNDS OR MEDICINAL PREPARATIONS
    • A61P43/00Drugs for specific purposes, not provided for in groups A61P1/00-A61P41/00
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/41Particular ingredients further characterized by their size
    • A61K2800/413Nanosized, i.e. having sizes below 100 nm
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/56Compounds, absorbed onto or entrapped into a solid carrier, e.g. encapsulated perfumes, inclusion compounds, sustained release forms

Abstract

The invention relates to a cosmetic use of composition having at least one lipophilic extract of odontella aurita for restructuring or avoiding destructuration of skin. The invention further relates to a new prescription comprising lipophilic natural extract of odontella aurita as active ingredient and transdermic vector of nano-colloid type for a cosmetic or dermatological composition, as well as cosmetic nursing method for preventing aging or destructuration of skin and/or for restructuring of skin.

Description

The cosmetic method of purposes, compositions and use this extract of the lipophilic extract of long-eared dentate Sargassum in skin regeneration
Technical field
At least a lipophilic extract that the present invention relates in the long-eared dentate Sargassum (Odontella Aurita) is used for the application of the make-up composition of skin regeneration in preparation, particularly as the purposes of age resistor.
Background technology
Skin is the cell aggregation that is gathered into the firm and softish tissue that covers whole body.Its major function is to set up the protection barrier of antagonism environmental stimuli, allows exchange certain between the inside and outside medium simultaneously.This is the place that a lot of metabolic processes are regulated by the physiological situation and the environmental aspect of organ.Skin is formed by two continuous layers (epidermis and corium), and each layer all is connected with subcutaneous tissue.
The major function of epidermis is the protection health, and it constitutes the top layer of skin and provides impermeability and intensity for skin.Its per approximately 4 all self renewal once.Various cell types coexist as in the epidermis; Be mainly keratinocyte (90%).Its feature activity is keratic synthetic, and keratin accounts for 95% of epidermis total protein.Keratin is water-fast fibrous protein, and it is the composition of horny layer of epidermis, and protection skin is not subjected to environmental stimuli, for example hot, cold, dehydration etc.
Epidermis is connected by the zone that is called dermo-epidermal junction or epidermal basement membrane (epidermal basalmembrane) with corium.This structure makes corium combine with epidermis, and provides part to participate in the machinery support of skin anxiety.It comprises substrate keratinocyte and corium fabric archeocyte, and contains a large amount of IV Collagen Type VIs, and described collagen relates to anchor speckle (anchoring plaques), and basement membrane is connected with anchor speckle in the mastoid process corium (papillarydermis).
Corium, promptly the internal layer of skin is a FECT, is made up of cell, fibroblast, is dispersed in the complex media that is called extracellular matrix.This substrate is made up of collagen and elastin fiber, glycoprotein (just fiber adhesion albumen and laminin) and Dan Baijutang (forming by add glycosaminoglycans or GAGS on core protein).
The mechanical property of the property quality and quantity of these components control skin, and as the improved source of the observed obvious Pathophysiology of skin when aging.Fiber provides hardness, intensity, elasticity and tonicity for skin.Glycoprotein and Dan Baijutang constitute volume and participate in hydration.
Collagen, particularly from the fiber collagen I and the III of corium fabric net, it is for constituting the protein of 75% corium.It plays the part of role on the mechanics by giving most support of skin and elasticity.Its special spatial arrangements provides certain rigid for dermis, therefore its mechanical performance is contributed.It is derived from precollagen (promptly by the synthetic precursor of fibroblast).
The Dan Baijutang that is dispersed between the fiber of corium connective tissue provides skin main tonicity.Its structure (polymer that glycosaminoglycans and long-chain polysaccharide form) is for Dan Baijutang provides the negative electricity of catching ion, water and various metabolite, thus mainly to skin preserve moisture and resistance to compression and tension are made contributions.
When aging, the skin crumple, lax, water content reduces and be difficult to self repairs.These influence outward appearance or cause that dermopathic clinical marker is the stack result that is caused by external process and intrinsic procedure, external process is caused by the infringement of UV effect and environmental factors (for example polluting) substantially, and intrinsic procedure is worn out by beginning in 20 years old chronic and caused.
The aging epidermis that occurs at the beginning.The splitting ability of keratinocyte in its basal layer descends, and the surface horny layer recovery time prolongs.The epidermis cell splitting ability descends and also causes enzyme (SIR2s) the family particularly reduction of enzyme SIRT1 relevant with " cell longevity ".
Cell maturation not exclusively and keratinization no longer produce normal horny layer uniformly, cause epidermal thickness minimizing, drying and rough surface.Simultaneously, the deep skin systematism reduces.Corium provides cohesion and basic function nutrition for skin, and it is the main target of skin damage.When aging, fibroblast (the component source of skin) disappears or changes fibrocyte into.The result observes the proteic amount of fiber adhesion and reduces (1).Fiber adhesion albumen is played the part of main role in bonding and cell function and aspect the quality and quantity of reduction elastin fiber:
The minimizing of elastic reduction of corium and skin thickness has been explained in the minimizing of following material: collagen (1%/year) (2), glycosaminoglycans (3) and TIMP1 (inhibitor of the metalloproteases relevant with the skin degeneration) (4).
The loss that makes the junctional complex pliability that hypodermal cell links together is the observed various contusion and the root of tearing in the old man.This has also explained increasing the weight of that corium damages when eye pouch and skin microgroove and little wound occurring.
Life-saving desire simultaneously keeps the idea of youthful appearance to impel the research that skin texture in the ageing process is changed.The structural tissue of studying carefully in skin is mainly returned in the appearance of wrinkle and microgroove, just connective tissue, horny layer and fibroblast tissue.In its composition, collagen, elastin laminin and keratin are being played the part of important role aspect the skin surface form improving.The defying age cosmetic product works to above-mentioned some.The purpose of facial processing of many " the lifting " on the market and project is to reduce wrinkle and improves skin elasticity.These are usually in effect on the skin surface or only effect on one of above-mentioned target protein; Its effect is temporary transient and only partly satisfactory.And the chemical compound of much using is not that totally nontoxic and its chronic use can cause skin problem, for example stimulates.It is general to use chemosynthesis or from the natural materials extraction and obtain, however chemosynthesis or extract that both are all very time-consuming and with high costs.
Owing to these reasons, need there be the chemical compound or the compositions of above-mentioned shortcoming, that is, nontoxic, be easy to get and act on simultaneously on several target proteins.
Summary of the invention
Astoundingly, the applicant finds that the lipophilic extract of long-eared dentate Sargassum can act on several target spots in corium and the epidermis simultaneously, and thereby can play a role on several levels simultaneously.Such extract also has can simple separation and the simple advantage of using.And, because its character, i.e. lipotropy, it especially is rich in sterin, and such extract is very low or do not have toxicity for organism toxicity.
The lipid-soluble extract of long-eared dentate Sargassum is known (CTFA 12540), and its purposes aspect obesity has been described in french patent documents FR-A-2 795 958.
Therefore, at least a lipophilic extract that the present invention relates in the long-eared dentate Sargassum is used for skin regeneration or prevents the purposes of degeneration of skin reagent in preparation.
Particularly, the lipophilic extract that the present invention relates to long-eared dentate Sargassum preparation be used for preventing in the skin or the purposes of external aged combination of agents thing, particularly improve skin elasticity and tonicity and/or prevent, reduce and/or overcome and occur wrinkle or microgroove on the skin.
On the other hand, the lipophilic extract that the present invention relates to long-eared dentate Sargassum after preparation is used for grinding skin, chemical peeling or laser grinding skin regeneration or improve the purposes of the reagent of skin regeneration.
Or rather, the lipophilic extract that the present invention relates to long-eared dentate Sargassum is used for improving and/or stimulating the purposes of precollagen, fiber adhesion albumen, glycosaminoglycans and/or the synthetic reagent of SIRT1 in preparation.
And then, the present invention relates to cosmetic composition or dermatological composition, it comprises the lipophilic extract and the transdermal carrier medium (transdermal vector vehicle) of long-eared dentate Sargassum.Transdermal media medium is nanometer colloid type or nanoparticle form, preferred nanometer colloid type.The example of the nanometer colloid type transdermal carrier that can mention is nanoemulsions, liposome and cyclodextrin.
At last, the invention still further relates to the cosmetic method that is used to nurse and/or handle and/or prevent skin aging or degeneration of skin, wherein make-up composition is applied on the skin, described make-up composition comprises at least a lipid-soluble extract in the long-eared dentate Sargassum and the acceptable media of making up.Preferably, the lipid-soluble extract of long-eared dentate Sargassum is present in the media with the nanometer colloid form.
Preferred forms of the present invention
By following detailed description, embodiment particularly, the purposes of the cosmetic composition of the lipophilic extract that comprises long-eared dentate Sargassum or such extract is described, its can irritate human skin epidermal structure, the increase of living cells number of layers and the increase of epidermal thickness in the explant (treated explants) that causes being subject to processing.
And then; in the concrete test of the expression of measuring mitotic index or GAGs, fiber adhesion albumen or deacetylase (sirtuins); utilize lipophilic extract of the present invention to obtain positive result; promptly; mitotic index is along with the control on mastoid process corium or effect and increase; particularly in the zone along dermo-epidermal junction, and the GAGs in fibroblast increases SIRT1 and fiber adhesion protein density height in the biopsy that is subject to processing skin.This means that epidermis and corium regenerates under the effect of the lipophilic extract of long-eared dentate Sargassum.
According to the present invention, can use the lipophilic extract of any long-eared dentate Sargassum, it is cyanobacterium, microalgae or plankton.The plankton that obtains is handled with common method, obtains lipophilic extract.
The lipophilic extract of these long-eared dentate Sargassum can for example utilize conventional extraction of organic solvents such as hexane or dichloromethane to obtain.Can also use any method or any method of extracting lipophilic extract from plankton that can extract long-eared dentate Sargassum lipid phase.Therefore, FR-A-2 795 958 has illustrated the extracting process that utilizes supercritical fluid (for example carbon dioxide).At last, long-eared dentate Sargassum oil can be available from Codif.
These lipid-soluble extracts are lipophilic.Other lipophilic extracts in any oil or silicone oil or other acceptable lipophilic substances of making up all are applicable to the present invention.
The amount of the lipophilic extract of long-eared dentate Sargassum in compositions of the present invention is 0.001~50wt% of compositions gross weight, is preferably 0.5~20wt%, is preferably 0.1~10wt% especially.
Used term " transdermal carrier medium " refers to make the media of extract skin permeation among the present invention.Particularly, such media is a nanometer colloid.
Term " nanometer colloid " is meant the non-solid form of any nano level, monodispersed, size less than about 200nm.Its normally surfactant-based emulsion.Nanometer colloid generally includes nanoemulsions (monolayer surfactant), but also can comprise small size liposome (at least one natural phospholipid class double-layer surface-active agent) or caged molecule, for example α-, β-or gamma-cyclodextrin, it can form inclusion complex.
The used cosmetic composition of the present invention is local application, and can be any this class use in Galenic formula form (galenical forms) commonly used particularly O/w emulsion (O/W), water-in-oil emulsion (W/O), oil/water/oily triple emulsion (O/W/O) or water/oil/aqueous emulsion (W/O/W), hydrogel or aqueous solution, water-alcohol solution or oil solution are provided.Therefore, the transdermal carrier can comprise O/W, W/O, W/O/W, O/W/O emulsion, gel or lipophile liquid.It more or less is a fluid, is white or coloured cream, brilliantine (or pomade (pomade)), emulsion (milk), washing liquid (lotion), serosity (serum), paste, foam or biphase liquid.It can be for solid-state, and is for example bar-shaped, or is aerosol form.
Except the lipophilic long-eared dentate Sargassum, compositions for use of the present invention also comprises one or more excipient, its be selected from and fill a prescription in active component the chemical compound of excellent compatibility is arranged.Example is the water-soluble natural polymer, and for example polysaccharide (xanthan gum, carob, pectin etc.) or polypeptide, the plain derivant of methylcellulose fibrid, hydroxypropyl cellulose, hydroxypropyl emthylcellulose or synthetic polymer, poloxamer (poloxamers), carbomer (carbomers) or polyvinylacrylate (PVA) or polyethylene are than pyrrolidone (PVP) class gellant.
At last, compositions of the present invention can also contain various other cosolvent class excipient (for example ethanol, glycerol, benzyl alcohol), wetting agent (for example glycerol), diffusion auxiliary agent (for example carbamide) or antibiotic antiseptic (for example 0.15% methyl parahydroxybenzoate).It can also contain surfactant, stabilizing agent, emulsifying agent, thickening agent, other can have and replenish or possible synergistic active substance, upright multielement difficult to understand, quintessence oil, aromatic, coloring agent, antiseptic, collagen protein, chemical filter or mineral filter, humidizer or warm water (thermal water), above-mentioned excipient can be chosen adding wantonly, if add fashionable, can add wherein one or more, those skilled in the art can select its addition as required.
The long-eared dentate Sargassum extract can with at least a other active substance combination, for example hydrated agent.
Method of the present invention is carried out in mode commonly used by local application compositions of the present invention, for example once a day, and twice of every day or behind each skin clean, use, or after decortication, wearing and tearing and laser treatment, strengthen using.
This method is applicable to all skins: compositions of the present invention can be coated on the face, still also can be coated in other positions of health; Prescription can be according to the difference in zone and different and/or can be specific for a certain zone.
Following examples only are used to illustrate the present invention, but do not limit its scope.
Active testing
Study the regeneration and the activity of fighting against senium of the preparation of the lipophilic extract that contains long-eared dentate Sargassum.
This research can be carried out at 36 human skin explants that obtain from the skin of abdomen plastic operation that 49 years old women carried out.
All explants are kept survival 4 days in culture medium.With oil solvent (caprylic/capric triglyceride (caprylic capric triglyceride), " Myritol 318 Neutral Oil ", COGNIS produces) in dilution and the lipid-soluble extract (Codif) that is deposited on the 30ul long-eared dentate Sargassum on aseptic paper surface be coated on the explant every day.At the 0th day that handles and the 4th day (D0 and D4), get 3 explants (contrast: 10% lipid-soluble extract, 1% lipid-soluble extract) from every batch and prepare and be used for fabric study.Carry out gross morphology explanation, promptly mitotic index and do not contain the evaluation of the glycosaminoglycans expression of acidic group obtains following result.
I. gross morphology
Utilize P Ganter and G Jolles, disclosed method is observed among the pub.Gautier Villars (1970) " Histochimienormale et pathologique " [normal and pathological tissue chemistry].All explants are observed and are shown from the 4th day that handles, the lipid-soluble extract of the long-eared dentate Sargassum of the dilution of 2 kinds of test concentrations use the stimulation of having induced to epithelial structure, cause the increase of living cells layer.Behind the lipid-soluble extract that has been coated with 10% long-eared dentate Sargassum, the thickness of epidermis increases manyly.
The II mitotic index
Utilize " Effect of raloxafene on breast cancer cells-Ki67 apoptosis ", MDowsett, the method of explanation is measured mitotic index among the published in Cancer Epidemiology Bio markers, September (2001).
Detect in the section in living tissue, the cell in the mitosis is cloned 7B11, mice IgG1 labelling with anti--Ki67, monoclonal antibody.After in acetone, fixing, in the enterprising row labels of frozen section.In PBS, will resist-Ki67 is diluted to 1/100 and at room temperature it is coated with 2 hours.Show with Vectastain RTUuniversal vector revealing kit (the omnipotent carrier display box of Vectastain RTU), with reference to PK-7200.With object lens is 40 observation by light microscope, and the result is average every centimetre of epidermis length.
At G1, S, G2 is middle mutually with anti--Ki67 labeled cell with M
Table I
Handle Do not have (contrast) Solvent OA 1% OA 10%
Mitotic index 35 35 80 115
As shown in Table I, at D4, the value of the observed mitotic index of biopsy of the skin of handling with the lipid extracts long-eared dentate Sargassum is higher than by untreated matched group and the value that obtained by the solvent of dilution extract.This value increases along with the increase of extract doses.
III. the expression of glycosaminoglycans (GAGs)
Use Jean Chevreau, Jacqueline Bellot and Marie-Jose Cabanier, publishersMaloine, 1956 expression of disclosed method research GAGs in " Formulaire de techniques histologiques " [histological techniques collected works].
With alcian blue PAS (GAGs that does not have acidic group is had specificity) tissue slice of skin explant is dyeed, after demonstration was handled explant with the lipid-soluble extract of the long-eared dentate Sargassum of 2 kinds of test concentrations, these components significantly increased on the skin.In the increase of (particularly being with) PAS stained positive fibroblast number in the mastoid process corium at dermoepidermal junction one of the clear effect that shows of D4, and the increase of GAGs characterizes in the fibroblast.
The expression of IV fiber adhesion albumen and deacetylase sirtuins (SIRT1)
With Fyrand O at Acta Derm Venereol 1979; 59 (6): 487-92 " " middle disclosed method is estimated the proteic expression of fiber adhesion to Studies onfibronectin in the skin.III.Indirect imrnunofluorescence studies in lichen planus (the proteic research of fiber adhesion in the skin; III. lichen planus indirect immunofluorescence research); with the detection fibers Fibronectin; with Dal Farra C and Domloge N at Soc Cosm Chem Annual Sci Meeting; " SIRT1; the humanhomologue to Sir 2 etc (SIRT1; the human congener of Sir 2 grades) "; 2005; disclosed method is estimated the expression of deacetylase (SIRT1) among the 65-66, to detect SIRT1.
Result with anti-SIRT1 of specificity and anti-fiber adhesion protein antibodies labelling shows, with tissue detection section or untreated comparing with solvent processing, when D4, the density of these SIRT1 and fiber adhesion protein molecular is higher in the tissue detection section that the skin of handling with the lipid-soluble extract of long-eared dentate Sargassum obtains.
Conclusion
Above-mentioned observation shows that under the effect of the lipid-soluble extract of long-eared dentate Sargassum, epidermis and corium are rebuild.
The standard of younger or restorative skin has been represented in these improvement.
Formulation examples
According to those skilled in the art's the following prescription of standard mode preparation, the percentage ratio in the prescription (%) expression is based on the percentage by weight of each component of composition total weight.In embodiment 1-4, be heated to 80 ℃ after, under strong agitation, mix water and oil phase usually, with its emulsifying.
The lipid-soluble extract of long-eared dentate Sargassum is provided by Codif.
Embodiment 1: the regeneration frost that is used for aging skin
The A-water
Water qsp (sufficient
quantity to)
100%
Glycerol 2.0%
Pentanediol 3.0%
Xanthan gum 0.5%
Antiseptic qs (sufficient
quantity)
Carbomer 0.35%
The B-oil phase
Isotriacontane (Squalane) 15%
Hexadecanol 2%
Eicosanol/docosanol/eicosyl glucoside 1%
Tristerin 5%
The lipid-soluble extract 1% of long-eared dentate Sargassum
Water 1.5%
NaOH 0.35%
Antiseptic+aromatic qs
Embodiment 2: the moisturiser that is used for the neutral skin
The A-oil phase
Ceteareth-2 (Ceteareth-2) 3.5%
Ceteareth-21 2~4%
Wheat germ oil 3%
Cyclomethicone (cyclomethicone) 7%
Octyl palmitate 8%
The lipid-soluble extract 0.01% of long-eared dentate Sargassum
The B-water
Water qsp 100%
Glycerol 7.0%
Pentanediol 3.0%
Antiseptic qs
C-under being lower than 40 ℃ of temperature adds the composition in the emulsion
Hyaluronate sodium 0.1%
Water 5%
Tocopherol 0.05%
Vitamin A palmitate 0.1%
Phosphatidase 10 .5%
Ceramide 3 (stearoyl-C18-phytosphingosine) 0.1%
Embodiment 3: the frost and the emulsion that are used to be exposed to the aging skin of daylight
The A-oil phase
Glyceryl monostearate 2%
The PEG-100 stearate 3%
The C12-C15 alkyl benzoate 10%
The lipid-soluble extract of long-eared dentate Sargassum 5%
Dimethicone 5%
Tocopherol acetate 1%
Diethylamino (2-hydroxybenzoyl)-hexyl-benzoate 4.0%
The ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate 5.0%
Cetostearyl alcohol (Cetostearyl alcohol) 1%
The B-water
Water qsp 100%
Antiseptic 0.6%
Glycerol 7%
Pentanediol 3.0%
Carbomer 0.5%
EDTA four sodium 0.2%
Hyaluronate sodium 0.1%
Water 5%
NaOH 0.5%
Antiseptic+aromatic qs
Embodiment 4: anti-wrinkle cream
The A-oil phase
The lipid-soluble extract of long-eared dentate Sargassum 10%
Isotriacontane 5%
Hexadecanol 2%
Dimethicone 5%
Octyl palmitate 5%
The B-water
Water qsp 100%
Butanediol 0.5-4%
Glycerol 2.0%
Pentanediol 3.0%
Xanthan gum 0.5%
Antiseptic qs
C-under being lower than 40 ℃ of temperature adds the composition in the emulsion
Tocopherol acetate 0.1%~1%
Vitamin B6 0.01~0.05%
Vitamin A palmitate 0.01~1%
The d-pantothenylol 0.1~1%
Citric acid 0.1~0.5%
Zinc gluconate 0.1~1%
Trisodium citrate 1~2.5%
Water 5%
Embodiment 5: the makeup removing water that is used for ripe skin
Water qsp 100%
Polysorbate 20 1.0%
Decoyl/caprinoyl glucoside 2.0%
The lipid-soluble extract of long-eared dentate Sargassum 0.1%
Pentanediol 4-5%
The d-pantothenylol 0.1%
Mannitol 0.02%
Embodiment 6: be used for reclaimed oil fragile and skin shortage nutrition
Oleum Glycines qsp 100%
The ethylhexyl cetylate 45%
The cyclohexyl methyl siloxanes 30%
The lipid-soluble extract of long-eared dentate Sargassum 2%
Tocopherol acetate 0.5%
Dipropylene glycol 0.5%
Linolein 0.1%
Embodiment 7: long-eared dentate Sargassum nanometer colloid anti-senility liquid
The preparation of-1-long-eared dentate Sargassum lipid extracts nanometer colloid:
To be dissolved in lipid-soluble extract (10%) emulsifying agent (the Axol C62-stearic acid citric acid glyceride of the long-eared dentate Sargassum in the oil (the sad tricaprin of Myritol 318-), Degussa produces, food stage, plant base (on a vegetable base), HLB is 12) stable.Emulsifying agent is 0.1 with respect to the ratio of oil phase.(Source Ste Alix Brittany) dilutes sea water/mineral water water (Haiquan water (marine spring water), SOMAIG produces, Ile Grande) in 1: 3 ratio with the mineral water that contains 10% glycol and 0.1% sodium ascorbate.
It is according to following production: (RAYNERI VMI TURBOTEST) was distributed to hot aqueous phase 3 minutes with emulsifying agent with rotor/stator.Under high pressure with this first mixture homogenization: (Lab 1000, APV) for 700 crust (1 time).Cool to room temperature.Add the lipophilic extract of additive and heat sensitive long-eared dentate Sargassum, use the rotor/stator homogenization.Again with mixture homogenization (700 crust, 1 time) under high pressure.
With light diffraction techniques (MASTERSIZER HYDRO 2000S, MALVERNINSTRUMENTS laser particle size meter) checking grain diameter and monodispersity.
Grain diameter is the 200nm order of magnitude.
The composition of-2-long-eared dentate Sargassum nanometer colloid anti-senility liquid:
Hyaluronate sodium (2.7 megadaltons) 1%
Long-eared dentate Sargassum nanoemulsions (cf-1-) after stable 5%
Glycol 10%
Haiquan water 21%
Mineral water 63%
Embodiment
The human trial of long-eared dentate Sargassum nanometer colloid anti-senility liquid.Two group of 15 people (30~60 years old) studied:
One group (mean age: 41 years old) sooner or later uses placebo (is that embodiment 7 (excipient of long-eared dentate Sargassum nanometer colloid liquid 2-)) 49 days is uninterrupted;
One group (45 years old mean age) sooner or later uses embodiment 7, and (long-eared dentate Sargassum nanometer colloid anti-senility liquid 2-) 49 days is uninterrupted.
That handles is last, and the people is done questionnaire survey, and the gained reaction is shown in the Table II, is expressed as a%.
Table II
Figure A20081013579600141
List of references
(1) Ageing of the extracellular matrix and its pathology (the aging and pathology of extracellular matrix), Labat-Robert J and Robert L, Exp Gerontol 1988,23 (1): 5-18.
(2) The ageing dermis:the main cause for the appearance of old skin (aged corium: old and feeble main cause appears in skin), by Lapiere C M, Br J dermatol 1990,122, Suppl 35:5-11.
(3) Age-related changes of water content in the rat skin (variation that the water content of muroid skin is relevant with the age), by Jung J W et al, J Dermatol Sci 1997,145 (1): 12-9.
(4) Down regulation of Tissue Inhibitor of Matrix metalloprotease-1 (TIMP-1) in aged human skin contributes to matrix degradation and impairedcell growth and survival (regulating contribution) to substrate degeneration and damaged cell growth and survival in the decrement of the tissue depressant of old people's skin matrix metalloproteinase-1 (TIMP-1), Homebeck W, Pathol Biol 2003,51 (10): 569-73.

Claims (12)

1. the lipophilic extract of long-eared dentate Sargassum is used for the purposes that the reagent of degeneration of skin was rebuild or prevented to skin in preparation.
2. purposes according to claim 1, it is aging for anti-inherent skin or external skin.
3. purposes according to claim 1 and 2, it is to improve the elasticity and/or the tonicity of skin and/or prevent, reduce and/or stop skin wrinkle or microgroove to occur.
4. purposes according to claim 1, it is the skin regeneration after improvement mill skin, chemical peeling or the laser grinding.
5. according to each described purposes in the claim 1~4, it is for improving and/or stimulating synthesizing of precollagen, fiber adhesion albumen, glycosaminoglycans and/or SIRT1.
6. cosmetic composition or dermatological composition, it comprises the lipophilic extract and the nanometer colloid class transdermal carrier medium of long-eared dentate Sargassum.
7. cosmetic composition according to claim 6 or dermatological composition, it comprises the lipophilic extract and the nanoemulsions class transdermal carrier medium of long-eared dentate Sargassum.
8. cosmetic composition according to claim 6 or dermatological composition, it comprises the lipophilic extract and the liposome class transdermal carrier of long-eared dentate Sargassum.
9. according to claim 6 or 7 described cosmetic composition or dermatological compositions, it comprises the lipophilic extract and the cyclodextrin transdermal carrier of long-eared dentate Sargassum.
10. according to each described cosmetic composition or dermatological composition in the claim 6~9, wherein said transdermal carrier comprises Water-In-Oil, oil-in-water, water/oil/water or oil/water/fat liquor, gel or lipophile liquid.
11. according to each described cosmetic composition or dermatological composition in the claim 6~10, the amount of the lipophilic extract of wherein said long-eared dentate Sargassum is 0.01~10wt% of compositions gross weight, be preferably 0.05~5wt%, more preferably 0.1~2wt%.
12 are used to nurse and/or handle and/or prevent the cosmetic method of skin aging or degeneration of skin, wherein apply cosmetic composition on skin, and described cosmetic composition comprises the lipophilic extract of at least a long-eared dentate Sargassum and the acceptable media of making up.
CN2008101357966A 2007-07-13 2008-07-14 Use of lipophilic extract of long-eared odontoid algae in skin regeneration, combination and cosmetic method using the extract Expired - Fee Related CN101357113B (en)

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