CA2222223C - Method and apparatus for hair color characterization and treatment - Google Patents

Abstract

Methods and apparatus for determining accurate hair color classifications an d appropriate coloring agents to bring about a selected change of color includ e a table of hair color classifications, a color measuring instrument to arriv e at Hunter L, a and b for use in identifying a particular classification from the table and a database that identifies appropriate coloring agents based o n a selection of coloring actions from a menu and the classifications of hair color.

Description

Description Method And Apparatus For Hair Color Characterization And Treatment Specification This is a continuation-in-part of U.S. patent application Serial No. 08/239,733 filed May 9, 1994, which is a continuation in part of patent application Serial No. 08/021,657, now patent No. 5,313,267.
Serial No. 08/021,657 is a continuation of Serial No.
204,938, filed June 6, 1988, a continuation of Serial No., 904,369, filed September 8, 1986 a continuation--in-part of U.S. patent application Serial No. 833,661, filed February 21, 1986, which is a continuation of U.S. patent application Serial No. 514,618, filed July 18, 1983.
Background of the Invention This invention relates to a method and apparatus for the categorizing of hair color and hair color treatment agents for their interrelationship, and more particularly to a process and instrument for measuring three color characteristics of hair color and catego-rizing it and determining the effect of a wide variety of hair coloring agents thereon.
Hair coloring agent choices are often made by a consumer based on relatively vague indications of the color to be expected as a result of the use of the agent on an individual person's hair. This approach does not take into consideration the color of the hair that is to be treated and how interaction of that particular individual's hair color with the coloring agent will affect the resultant color.

No reliable source of information has been avail-able to a private consumer regarding what the actual color of her or his hair is and what hair coloring agent will provide the hair color alteration that consumer seeks.
Consequently it can be seen there exists a need for procedures and apparatus that will accurately characterize an individual's hair color to enable selection of appropriate coloring agents for a desired color result. Likewise there exists a need for a reliable process and instrumentation to permit the use of the accurate color-characterization of an individ-ual's hair color in the selection of hair coloring agents to effect hair color alterations of a type desired by the individual.
Brief Summary of the Invention According to this invention there is provided a method and apparatus for accurately characterizing the hair color of individuals to enable identification of the hair color and products suitable to achieve a desired change in hair color, and more particularly to a method and apparatus for measuring color factors in an individual's hair color to assign that hair color to a classification previously determined to interact with identified hair coloring agents to bring about predict-able color changes.
Through experimentation over a prolonged period, the applicants were able to compile a vast amount of information relating to coloration of virtually every imaginable hair color. Thousands of individual hair samples were treated with many various coloring agents.
The hair color before and after such treatment was accurately, scientifically measured and characterized using known, reliable color measurement. Hair color was then assembled into a large number of categories based on ranges of the measured color factors. A
database was assembled comprising the desired changes available through various hair coloring agents and the particular agents that would effect those changes in human hair to the various categories.
Instrumentation was implemented to measure from an individual's hair the color factors that operate to place the hair color in one of the numerous hair color classifications and to identify that classification to the individual or the individual's hair specialist. In addition, the instrumentation was arranged to allow for selection of a desired alteration in hair color, and on the basis of the gathered empirical data, hair coloring agents capable of effecting the desired change were located from within a database.
In an embodiment of the invention, the process for hair color analysis is carried out by measuring with a measuring instrument the value of a number of color factors in the color of an individual's hair at various sites, and then providing an indicator or table having a large number of hair color classifications defining ranges of those same color factors, and finally compar-ing the color factors of the indicator or table to the measured color factors to arrive at a classification of the individual's hair color.
In a preferred embodiment of the invention just described the color factors were Hunter h, a and b.
In an instrumentation implementing the process just described, a colorimeter was used to measure the color factors. The indicator or table having a large number of color classifications was retained in comput-er memory, and the comparison was made electronically between the memory-retained classifications and the measured color factors.
To use the process just described a list or menu of possible choices for varying hair color was present-ed. Upon selection of that choice, along with the hair color classification as previously determined, is used together with a database of hair color classifications and associated product identifications empirically determined to effect the presented choices of color changes to locate in that database previously tested hair coloring agents capable of effecting the chosen action.
In one further embodiment of the process described, the color factors measured in an ~individ-ual's hair color were Hunter L, a and b. Classifica-tions of hair color provided in the indicator or table were percentages of grey in the hair of the individual.
This embodiment enables the coloring of grey hair or partially grey hair to obtain an individual's natural hair coloring or another preferred hair color. This procedure required the selection of one of a number of categories of hair colors such as "light brown,"
"darkest blond," "light red," etc. The indicator or table that identified various hair color classifica-tions was divided among broad hair color families or groups of categories, and for an individual the partic-ular hair family division of the indicator associated with that individual's broad family of hair color was found. The ranges of color factors in that division were then compared with the factors measured in the individual's hair to arrive at a classification.
In another embodiment of the invention, to arrive - at ~--hair- color- tre-ai.~-nent--agent;--a database of hair color treatment agents and classifications of color characteristics of individuals was compiled and an individual's color characteristics were determined by measurement of color factors, followed by comparison of those color factors with ranges contained in the database. In one embodiment the color characteristic of the individual that provided the basis for compari-son was skin color.
Brief Description of the Drawings In the Drawings:
Figure la is a block diagram illustration of an instrument for determining hair color Hunter L, a and b values and for those with hair color classifications previously determined and stored in memory.
Figure lb is a diagrammatic illustration of exemplary memory content in an instrument like that of Fig. la.
Figure 2 is a schematic illustration in block diagram form illustrating the steps in the process of arriving at hair color classification of an individual.
Figure 3 is a schematic illustration in block diagram form illustrating the steps in the process of using hair color classification and a database to arrive at a coloring agent for making a selected alteration in hair color.
Figure 4 is a schematic illustration in block diagram form illustrating the steps in the process of arriving at hair color classification of a greying individual.
Figure 5 is a schematic illustration in block diagram form illustrating the steps in the process of using hair color classification of a greying individual and a database to arrive at a coloring agent for making selected alteration in hair color.
Figure 6 is a schematic illustration in block diagram form illustrating the steps in the process of arriving at hair color treatment agents based upon a database of agents and individual skin color character-istics.
SUBSTITUTE SHEET (RULE 26) Detailed Description of the Preferred Embodiment Any modern version of two general types of color-measuring instruments, colorimeters and spectrophoto-meters, is an example of instruments suitable for the hair color measurement according to a preferred embodi-ment of this invention. The basic components of either type of instrument are a light source, a sample illumi-nation and viewing arrangement, a means of selecting certain wavelengths of light for the measurement, a detector of the light reflected from the sample, and some relatively simple computing capacity. In commer-cially available instruments the main purposes of the computing capacity are to store and apply calibration inforniation and to calculate various color coordinates for later use. In Fig. la, a color measuring instru-ment 10 is illustrated. An individual person's hair 11 is illuminated by the instrument as generally indicated by the broken line arrow 12, and the instrument re-ceives illumination reflected from the hair 11 as generally indicated by the broken line arrow 13. Based on the illumination received by reflection from the hair, the instrument 10 develops the coordinates Y, x and y. In Fig. la the instrument 10 is a colorimeter, commercially available and suitable for development of the values Y, x and y.
Another type of instrument that can be used in the hair color categorization method according to this invention is the spectrophotometer that measures the hair reflectance at discrete wavelengths and from these data derives tristimulus values, from which can be computed the Hunter color values used to measure hair color for the purposes discussed below.
Important to the use of a commercial colorimeter of the kind employed for the color measurement instru-ment 10 of Fig. la is the calibration of the instrument using a standard. In the early use of an instrument of SUBSTITUTE SHEET (RULE 26) _7_ this kind by the inventors, the "Light Skin" sample from the Macbeth Color Checker, described in the publication of C.S. McCamy, H. Marcus, and J.G.
Davidson, "A Color-Rendition Chart," J. Appl. Photogr.
Eng. 2, 95-99 (1976) was used. A tile of this approxi-mate color was selected for its greater durability as an instrument standard. It was found, however, that the use of the "Light Skin" painted paper as the primary standard did not adequately avoid the phenome-non known as metamerism, by which objects that look alike (have the same perceived color) under some kinds of light sources or to some observers do not match under other types of light sources or to other observ-ers. By this phenomenon colorimeters may not read their colors the same as the average human observer would under the daylight type light source usually employed for visual observation. This, then could lead to an error in colorimeter calibration.
As an improved primary standard, the skin of a subject whose skin color measurements were highly reproducible and in the approximate center of the range of skin colors of the human population was selected.
The spectral reflectance factors of the skin of this subject were carefully measured on a Macbeth 1500 Plus spectrophotometer (Macbeth, New Windsor, New York);
these data are given in column 2 of Table I at the wavelengths listed in column 1. By using well-estab-lished techniques of computer color matching, carried out on an ACS 1800 system equipped with an ACS Spectro-Sensor II color measuring instrument (Datacolor Inter-national, Lawrenceville, New Jersey) a colorant formu-lation matching this skin color was developed. The spectral reflectance factors for this match are given in column 3 of Table I. It may be seen that the data closely match those of column 2, indicating the absence ofmetamerism. Calculations according to the CIE 1976 _g_ CIELAB system showed that the two data sets match to within 0.27-0.36 units, less than can be perceived by human color vision,, for daylight, incandescent light, and cool white fluorescent light, the three most commonly used light sources for the proposed applica-tions.
The above-mentioned formulation was made up in a stable, durable material, and tiles were prepared as instrument standards. The spectral reflectance factors of one of these tiles are given in column 4 of Table I.
It was found, however, that the improvement in calibra-tion resulted in.color coordinates that were signifi-cantly different from those obtained in the many studies made with the earlier system. A decision was made to adjust the calibration values of the new tiles in order to achieve consistent results between the new and old methods of calibration. Column 5 of Table I
gives the adjusted set of spectral reflectance factors for the tile of column 4. The CIE and Hunter color coordinates, for measurement with the specular compo-nent excluded and calculated for CIE standard illumi-nant C and the 1931 2° CIE standard observer, are also tabulated for each of the samples in the table.
TABLE I
Wave-lengths, Skin FormulationTile, Tile, nm. Standard correct adjusted 400 19.03 20.70 21.51 16.67 420 18.96 20.69 21.10 16.93 440 21.53 21.68 20.99 17.65 460 25.36 24.43 23.27 20.56 480 28.06 28.30 27.82 25.67 500 30.13 30.77 29.03 27.94 520 31.19 31.31 29.38 28.24 _g_ Wave-lengths, Skin FormulationTile, Tile, nm. Standard correct adjusted 400 19.03 20.70 21.51 16.67 540 30.01 30.84 28.48 27.59 560 31.41 30.76 28.22 27.33 580 32.85 34.01 31.49 30.12 600 44.37 43.54 42.58 40.52 620 51.24 51.57 51.27 47.93 640 54.56 55.09 55.56 51.10 660 57.09 57.60 59.22 53.82 680 58.67 60.41 61.82 56.55 700 59.95 62.69 63.93 58.87 X 37.14 37.28 36.14 33.76 Y 34.66 34.89 33.07 31.53 Z 28.50 28.54 27.63 24.20 x 0.3703 0.3702 0.3732 0.3732 y 0.3456 0.3464 0.3415 0.3523 L 58.87 59.07 57.51 56.15 a 9.31 9.02 11.54 9.05 b 12.51 12.70 11.77 13.75 With a suitable standard, basically, calibration a.s carried out by forcing the colorimeter 10 to give the desired color coordinates Y, x and y mentioned above, while utilizing the colorimeter with the stan-dard tile chosen. The method of calibration is known for particular instruments and follows a series of steps prescribed by the manufacturer that need not be detailed here.
In hair color analysis, prior to each test of a subject the subject's hair should be free of dirt. The site should be well dried to avoid any wetnesswhich.
may interfere with the reflection of light from the hair 11 to the instrument 10. In all cases with the instrument correctly calibrated, the instrument's measuring head or instrument orifice is placed against the site to be measured. Care is taken to avoid the admission of ambient light to the instrument. Pressing the instrument head firmly against the measurement site prevents the entry of ambient light. Additionally, it was determined that best results are obtained if one removes the instrument from the measurement site briefly, between illuminations. This can die provided for in software by a conventional delaying routine and, if desired, with an appropriate display instnicting the user to remove the instrument briefly well away from the subject's hair.
In a colorimeter of the type shown in Fig. la, at block 10 the instrument has an internal microprocessor or other computing capability so that it is able to develop the color coordinates Y, x and y from the measured values X, Y and Z (Y being the same in each case). Certain colorimeters develop the Hunter color coordinates L, a and b. Since the degree of computa-tion that the color measuring device 10 (i.e. colorime-ter or spectrophotometer) internally performs varies, the manner of calculating the Hunter values from the tristimulus coordinates is useful to an understanding and practice of the invention and will enable correct use of a CPU by appropriate calculation to perform the invention with any commercially available colorimeter or spectrophotometer. Most modern color measuring instruments begin with measurement of the tristimulus values X, Y and Z. From these can be derived the CIE
chromaticity coordinates x and y:
x = x / (X + Y + Z) (1) y = Y / (X + Y + Z) (2) The instrument 10 of Fig. la outputs the triplet of values x, y and Y as the starting point for further SUEST(TUTE SHEET (RULE 26) calculations by a central processing unit which can be dedicated microprocessor circuitry or personal computer 15. The remaining two tristimulus values X and Z are available by computation as follows:
X = xY/y, and (3) Z = (1-x-y)Y/y (4) In the preferred embodiment, in any event, the CPU
according to Fig. la develops the Hunter value L, a and b. The Hunter L,a and b values are the three values derived by Richard S. Hunter in 1958. Richard S.
Hunter, "Photoelectric Color Difference Meter," J. Opt.
Soc. Am. 48, 985-995 (1958). The equations for these are:
L = 10 (Y)ln (5) a = 17.5 (1.02 X - Y) / yl~z (f,) b = 7.0 (Y - 0.847 Z) / YIn (7) where L is a lightness coordinate whose values corre-late better with the visual perceptions of the light-ness of object colors than do values of Y; a is a coordinate denoting redness or greenness, for which positive values denote that the color is red rather than its opponent color green, and negative values of a denote the opposite; and b is a yellowness-blueness coordinate, for which positive values denote that the color is yellow rather than the opponent color blue, and negative values of b denote the opposite. For yellow colors, starting with a = b = 0 and an appropri-ate high value of L, which would be a light grey, increasing positive values of b result in a series of colors that may be described as light yellowish grey, pale yellow, light yellow, brilliant yellow and vivid yellow, in turn. Thus b is a measure of the "intensi-ty" of the yellow color.
In the particular arrangement of Fig. la, wherein the colorimeter 10 produces the values Y, x and y, the computer 15 derives the Hunter values L, a and b.
SUBSTITUTE SHEET (RULE 26~

Following the procedure represented in Fig. 2, the colorimeter is calibrated as described above. The values of Y, x and y are measured for each of multiple sites on the subject's hair. Preferably the top, each side, the back of the subject's head, the color of the hair at the roots and at its ends, are measured. Three measurements are taken at each site and are averaged to arrive at an Y, x and y for each site and, from the average for each site, Hunter L, a and b for each site is calculated.
The values of Hunter L, a and b are compared to the values of Hunter L, a and b of the color categories 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6 etc. of the Hair Categories table of Appendix A. This, then, identifies the category of the subject's hair coloring at each of the measured sites.
Each Hair Category in the table of Appendix A has in association with it the hair color name, such as Black-Cool, Darkest Dark Brown-Cool, etc., an identification of one or more manufacturer's "Levels" which are commonly indicated upon a manufacturer's product to indicate products recommended for individuals with particular hair color. In other words, the identifica-tion of hair category or classification can also indicate to the subject or the subject's hair special-ist the designation or level that the subject should seek out in a particular manufacturer's line of prod-ucts. The Hair Categories table of Appendix A may further identify for the subject or his or her special-ist the pigment designation given by the manufacturers to the particular color.
The hair color categories for the several measured sites, then, can be used by the subject or her or his hair specialist to allow for accurate assessment of the hair color to be dyed and to choose product for hair coloring. As will be appreciated, the category or classification may vary from site to site and this will inform the subject or specialist whether it will be necessary to use varying products or longer or shorter periods of application at varying sites to achieve a hair coloration desired. In other words, dark roots might be treated differently than light ends.
In accordance with the further method according to Fig. 3, a hair coloring agent recommendation is made to achieve a subject's desired coloration change. Once having determined the correct color categories for each measured site, a menu of possible actions (Appendix B) affecting hair color is displayed and one such action is chosenby the subject or hair specialist. Using that selection and the hair color category, a database (Appendix C) is consulted as indicated at step 7 and at step 8 products are identified from Appendix D of a given manufacturer that will accomplish the sought-after result.
The menu of hair color action choices available in step 6 is appended as Appendix B.
The database used in step 7 to arrive at a partic- -ular product that will effect the chosen hair color option for the particular person's hair category is attached as Appendix C. Certain codes in this appendix that are used by this database require explanation.
The same 75 hair color categories 1, 2, 3, 4, etc., and category names as appear in the table of Appendix A are listed under the heading "Category Name." Also under "Category Name" the Category Group, A, B, C, D, etc. is designated as in the Appendix A table. Next, the ranges of Hunter L, a and b defining the category appear. Under the heading "CW Level" one of four levels of cool to warm is listed. In these the numeral "1" is coolest, "2" is a border color on the cool side of the cool-warm boundary, !'3" is a warm color on the warm side of the cool-warm boundary, and "4" is a warm color. The "Level" column lists again the product WO 96/41139 . PCT/IB96/00731 manufacturer's "Level" designations like those listed in Appendix A.
In the Appendix C database, two manufacturers are listed for each category. Opposite each appears a series of numbers such as -1:01 -2:01 +1:02 +2:02. In each of these numbers the first digit represents an action which may be chosen from the menu of hair color options. For example in -1:01, the number "-1" making hair color slightly darker. The number "-2" means "darker," which is somewhat more darkening than "sligh-tly darker." The number "+1" means "slightly lighter"
and the number "+2" means "lighter," e.g. somewhat more lightening than "slightly lighter." The number after the (:), "O1," is a direction to go to category group A. In category Group A, then, are identified the manufacturer products of :011. An index,, Appendix D
hereto, identifies products of each manufacturer.
These are the products that will have the desired effect .
From the database of Appendix C it W 11 be seen, then, that, for example, to darken hair of Categories 2, 3, 4 and 5, "O1" appears, making reference to Category Group A1.
The database appended as Appendix B was developed empirically by, first, measuring the Hunter L, a and b of an enormous number of sample hairs from the numer-ous Categories, then applying the colorants of the manufacturers to these hairs and again measuring the Hunter L, a and b to determine the color change effect of the hairs thus colored. This was done as well for the lighter ends of these hairs and for darker roots.
This was also done for greying hair for use in the grey hair program described below. In this fashion the database of Appendix B was built.
Turning to the block diagram of Fig. 4 character-ization of greying hair can be accomplished, following calibration of the instrument at step one, by selecting one's natural color from the following List Of Natural Hair Color Options. (Appendix E) LIST OF NATURAL HAIR COLOR OPTIONS

1. If Grey is present in Black, Dark Brown, Medium Brown or Brown Hair, please press #1.

2. If Grey is present in Light Brown/Darkest 10 Blonde Hair, please press #2.

3. If Grey is present in Dark Red, Medium Red, or Medium Light Red Hair, please press #3.

4. If Grey is present in Light Red or Red Blonde hair, please press #4.

15 5. If Grey is present in Medium to medium Dark Blonde Hair, please press #5.

6. If Grey is present in Light Blonde Hair, please press #6.

Again, at step three Y, x and y for the natural hair is identified, either by measurement at a natural hair color site on the individual or by the individual's identifying hair swatches considered to be his or her natural color. From Y, x and y, Hunter L, a and b -- three measurements are taken and then~averaged to reach average Hunter L, a and b, or in the case of the swatch this may already have been done so that Hunter L, a and b for the swatch is known.
Further sites containing grey are then measured at step 4 to arrive at Y, x and y for these additional sites, which again may be the sides, top, back of the head, roots and ends. The same procedure is followed with three measurements per site to reach average Y, x and y for each site and thereafter calculating average L, a and b for each site. With the Hunter L, a and b for natural hair and the Hunter L, a and b for the _Z~_ greying hair determined, the table entitled "Calcula-tion of Percentage of Grey Hair," Appendix F, a.s consulted, which defines the grey hair categories on the basis of percentage of grey.
The percentage grey thus identified is displayed and this represents the category for an individual with greying hair. This characterization is used similarly to the previously described characterization or catego-ry of the table of hair categories attached at Appendix A.
In Figure 5 the use of the grey hair identifica-tion as just described in a-procedure for identifying colorants to achieve a desired result is indicated.
After calibration of the instrument as described, the steps previously discussed in connection with Fig. 4 are followed to identify the category of greying hair.
Then, at step 7 from the menu of options appearing above, a selection of one of the 35 choices is made.
With that, now the database of Appendix C can be used in exactly the same manner as described previously.
That is to say, the category of hair is found, the option selected is chosen as -1, -2, +1 or +2. The Category Group designator, 01, 02, 03, etc. is used to identify the appropriate category family to go to and in that category family is found the identifier of manufacturer's hair colorants that will produce the desired result which is found in Appendix D.
In Figure 6 a method of using an indicator table to choose hair coloring agents for compatibility with skin coloration entails taking 5 measurements for the subjects right cheek and calculating Y, x and y, following calibration of the instrument. Out of range readings are discarded prior to calculation of Hunter L, a and b based on the remaining three averaged Y, x and y readings. Using the value of Hunter b at step 5 it is determined whether the skin tone type is less than 11.5 and consequently cool or equal to or higher than 11.5 and therefor warm. Using this cool or warm designation the Table attached as Appendix F is con-sulted to arrive at hair color recommendations.
Appendix F is developed by assessment of Hunter b in the products listed to assess the warmness or coolness of those products and products are recommended that have the same proportion of yellow to blue as does the measured skin color.
In-Fig. la the colorimeter 10 provided Y, x and y to the computer 15. The computer's memory 17 is divided into RAM and ROM.
In the system of Fig. la, following the routine of Fig. 2, the CPU or central processing unit of the computer calculates the Hunter values L, a and b and stores these at selected addresses of the data portion or RAM~of memory 17. The data RAM (or nonprogram) portion 18 of the memory 17 is indicated in Fig. lb.
A relatively permanent section 18a of RAM 18 stores the data of Table I. A more often revised memory segment stores the results of the measurements performed with the instrument. Based on a relatively straightforward program retained in the permanent ROM memory, from the measurements taken at intervals, the CPU calculates new values of L, a and b. The CPU compares these to the L, a and b values in Table I and indicates the appropriate hair color category from Table I, for example on the display 20.
To perfozin the procedure according to Fig. 3, the RAM memory 18 contains as well the information of the menu of options in Table II, Appendix B. These are called up and displayed at display 20 and, using an input device such as a keyboard 22 or a mouse, a selection is made. The selection is retained in the more temporary portion 18b of the RAM 18.
SUBSTITUTE SHEET (RJLE 26) The CPU consults the Table III database of Appen-dix C, in the more permanent RAM section 18a and pulls up the appropriate manufacturer's product identifica-tions in the Table IV, Appendix D for the choice of menu items and the hair color category. These are displayed on the display 20.
To accomplish the procedure of Fig. 4 the computer 15's RAM 18 retains the Table I information which includes the greying hair categories 61 to 68 and the Table VI, Appendix F information giving the manner of arriving at percentage of grey hair. The CPU inquires of the user via the display or measurement and is given the natural hair color via the input. The CPU uses the Hunter L, a and b values and Table I to determine Color Category or if Table I does not yield a category the Table VI information is employed with L to arrive at a Category using Table VI. The category is displayed.
To perform the procedures of Fig. 5 the CPU
determines the category-percentage of grey hair as above, from either Table I or Table VI. The menu of selections, Table II is displayed and a choice is indicated. Using the choice and the category identi-fied the Table III database is used to indicate a group or "file" of manufacturer's products in Table IV, which are then displayed on the display 20.
For the choice of hair coloring agent based on skin color the CPU determines if Hunter b is above or below 11.5 and based on this available selections from Table VII, Appendix G are chosen and displayed.
While particular preferred embodiments of the invention have been described and illustrated, it will be apparent to those skilled in the art that revisions can be made without departure from the spirit and scope of the invention as defined in the appended claims.

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m e r m SUBSTITUTE SHEET (RULE 26) TABLE II
MENU OF HAIR COLOR OPTIONS Appendix B

1. Match r Natural Hair Colo 2. Make Natural Hair ColorWanner 3. Make Natural Hair ColorCooler 4. Highlight Hair Color Natural 5. Make Natural Hair ColorSlightly Darker 6. Make Natural Hair ColorSlightly Lighter 7. Make Natural Hair ColorDarker 8. Make Natural Hair ColorLighter 9. Make Natural Hair ColorWarmer and Slightly Darker 10. Make Natural Hair ColorWarmer and Slightly Lighter 11. Make Natural Hair ColorWarmer and Darker 12. Make Natural Hair ColorWarmer and Lighter 13. Make Natural Hair ColorCooler and Slightly Darker 14. Make Natural Hair ColorCooler and Slightly Lighter 15. Make Natural Hair ColorCooler and Darker 16. Make Natural Hair ColorCooler and Lighter 17. Make Natural Hair ColorWarmer with Highlights 18. Make Natural Hair ColorCooler with Highlights 19. Make Tinted Hair ColorWarmer 20. Make Tinted Hair ColorCooler 21. Highlight nted Hair Ti Color 22. Make Tinted Hair ColorSlightly Darker 23. Make Tinted Hair ColorSlightly Lighter 24. Make Tinted Hair ColorDarker 25. Make Tinted Hair ColorLighter 26. Make Tinted Hair ColorWarmer and Slightly Darker 27. Make Tinted Hair ColorWarmer and Slightly Lighter 28. Make Tinted Hair ColorWarmer and Darker 29_ Make Tinted Hair ColorWarmer and Lighter 30. Make Tinted Hair ColorCooler and Slightly Darker 31. Make Tinted Hair ColorCooler and Slightly Lighter 32. Make Tinted Hair ColorCooler and Darker 33. Make Tinted Hair ColorCooler and Lighter 34. Make Tinted Hair ColorWarmer wits Highlights 35. Make Tinted Hair ColorCooler with Highlights SUBSTITUTE SHEET (RULE 26) .n .r .~ r .r r O ~ O ~ .r .r .r .r ~ ~ ~ ~ ..~ r ~ ~ .n ~
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WO 96/41139 - 3 4 . PCT/IB96/00731 Appendix D
TABLE IV - MANUFACTURERS PRODUCTS

CLAIROL FILES

011:

Logics Violet - 1V Black Miss Clairol - 82N Dk. Neutral Brown Miss Clairol - 52D Black Azure 5 Miss Clairol - 51D Black Velvet 014:

Logics Blue - 3B Medium Brown Miss Clairol - 84N Lt Neutrl Brown Logics Violet - 3V Medium Brown Miss Clairol - 39G Sunset Brown Miss Clairol - 95D-N Nightfall Brown Miss Clairol - 46D Chestnut Brown Loving Care - 80 Auburn Miss Clairol - 56R Cinnamon Miss Clairol ~ - 37D Iced Brown 021:

Logics Violet - 2V Dark Brown Logics Neutral - 2N Dark Brown Logics Red Violet - 2RV Deep Miss Clairol - 57D Coffee Brown Miss Clairol - 48D Sable Brown 031:

Logics Blue - 3H Medium Brown Logics Neutral - 3N Medium Brown Logics Red Violet - 3RV Medium Logics Violet - 3V Medium Brown Loving Care - 79 Dark Brown 034:

Logics Gold - 3G Medium Brown 041:

Logics Blue - 4B Light Brown Logics Violet - 4V Light Brown Logics Red Violet - 4RV Light Logics Neutral - 4N Light Hro~rn Miss Clairol - 84~T Lt Neutrl Brown Miss Clairol - 39G Sunset Brown Miss Clairol - 95D-N Nightfall Brown Miss Clairol - 46D Chestnut Brown Loving Care - 80 Auburn Miss Clairol - 56R Cinnamon Miss Clairol - 37D Iced Brown SUBSTITUTE SHEET (RULE 26) 044:

Logics Gold - 4G Light Brown Logics Red Orange - 4R0 Deep Bright Loving Care - 77 Medium Ash Brown Miss Clairol - 75R Sunsparked Brown Miss Clairol - 47R Red Ginger Loving Care - 83 Natural Black Miss Clairol - 46D Chestnut Brown Loving Care - 80 Auburn Miss Clairol - 56R Cinnamon Loving Care - 82 Dark Warrn Brown Miss Clairol - 37D Iced Brown 051:

Logics Neutral - 5N Lightest Brown Logics Violet - 5V Lightest Brown Miss Clairol - 94D-N Twilight Brown Miss Clairol - 86N Dk Neutral Brown Born Blonde Toner - 360 Moonlight Mink Miss Clairol - 36D Moonlit Brown Beautiful Browns - 18D Darkest Brown Beautiful Browns - 20D Black Beautiful Browns - 15W Dark Warm Brown Miss Clairol - 32D Moon Haze 054:

Beautiful Browns - 12D Medium Ash Brown Loving Care - 76 Lt Golden Brown Creme Toner - 345D True Camel Beige Creme Toner - 346D True Taupe Beige Loving Care - 78 Med Golden Brown Loving Care - 75 Light Ash Brown Loving Care - 74 Reddish Blonde Miss Clairol - 42D Moongold Loving Care - 775 Smokey Ash Brown Miss Clairol - 35G Sunlit Brown Beautiful Browns - 20D Black Beautiful Browns - 15W Dark Warn Brown Miss Clairol - 32D Moon Haze 061:

Beautiful Browns - 11W Med Golden Brown Jazzing - 78 Creme Soda Born Blonde Toner - 354 Baby Blush Creme Toner - 343D True Ash Blonde Born Blonde Toner - 357 Beautiful Beige Beautiful Browns - 131D Med Smokey Brown Miss Clairol - 28D Autumn Mist Miss Clairol - 25G Sunblonde Brown Beautiful Browns - 13W Med Warm Brown Miss Clairol - 74G Sunwashed Blonde Beautiful Browns - 121W Med Honey Brown SUBSTITUTE SHEET (RULE 26) WO 96/41139 - 3 6 , PCT/IB9610073I
064:

Beautiful Browns - lOW Bronzed Brown Miss Clairol - 28D Autumn Mist Miss Clairol - 25G Sunblonde Brown Beautiful Browns - 13W Med Way Brown Miss Clairol - 74G Sunwashed Blonde Beautiful Browns - 121W Med Honey Brown ' Beautiful Browns - 131D Med Smokey Brown 071:

Horn Blonde Toner - 356 Innocent Ivory Logics Blue - 6V Dark Blonde Horn Blonde Toner - 358 Winsome Wheat Beautiful Browns - SD Light Ash Brown Born Blonde Toner - 355 Blissfully Blonde Jazzing - 76 Sandstorm Born Blonde Toner - 359 Fair Fawn Miss Clairol - 93D-N Dusk Blonde Miss Clairol - 34D Hazy Mist Miss Clairol - 88N Lt Neutral Blnde Miss Clairol - 34D Hazy Mist Creme Toner - 342D True Brown Blonde Creme Toner - lOB Sandy Blonde Creme Toner - 341D True Tan Blonde 074:

Beautiful Blondes - 6D Blonde Brown Miss Clairol - 41G Golden Apricot Beautiful Reds - 9W Lt Reddish Brown Creme Toner - 344R True Tawny Beige Loving Care - 73 Ash Blonde Miss Clairol - 88N Lt Neutral Blnde Miss Clairol - 34D Hazy Mist Creme Toner - 342D True Brown Hlnde Creme Toner - 108 Sandy Blonde Creme Toner - 341 True Tan Blonde 081:

Horn Blonde Toner - 352 Precious Platnm Born Blonde Toner - 353 Sweet Silver Horn Blonde Toner - 361 Happy Honey Jazzing - 72 Icicle Creme Toner - 311D 9A Towhead Creme Toner - 309D Champgn Parfait Creme Toner - 331G Tan Pearl Miss Clairol - 92D-N Daybreak Blonde Logics Violet - 7V Medium Blonde 084:

Beautiful Blondes - 4W Med Golden Blonde Creme Toner - 307D Champagne Ice Logics Gold - 8G Light Blonde Creme Toner - 303G Champgn Beige SUBSTITUTE SHEET (RULE 26) WO 96/41139 - 3 ,~ - PCT/IB96/00731 Loving Care - 72 Golden Blonde Beautiful Hrights - 30W 14FC Gold Miss Clairol - 27G Spring Honey Beautiful Blondes - 5D Light Ash Blonde Creme Toner - 311D 9A Towhead Creme Toner - 309D Champgn Parfait Creme Toner - 311G Tan Pearl Logics Violet - 7V Medium Blonde Miss Clairol - 92DN Daybreak Blonde Miss Clairol - 71R-G Sunrise Gold 091:
Jazzing - 10 Clear Hairglosser Logics Blue - 8B Light Blonde_ Horn Blonde Toner - 351 Silent Snow Creme Toner - 310D Champgn Toast 094:
Beautiful Blondes - 2W Lt Golden Blonde 101:

Logics Violet - i2V Ultra Lt Blond Miss Clairol - 20D Arctic Blonde Creme Toner - 302D Platinum Beige Creme Toner - 319G Ivory Chiffon Creme Toner - 315G X-Lite H

Logics Hlue - 12B Ultra Lt Blonde Logics Violet - 8V Light Blonde Miss Clairol - 91D-N Starlit Blonde Creme Toner - 314G x-Lite A

Creme Toner - 332R Strawberry Blnde Miss Clairol - 40D Topaz Miss Clairol - 26D Winter Wheat Logics Gold - lOG Lightest Blonde 104:

Creme Toner - 340G True Golden Blonde Creme Toner - 332R Strawberry Blnde Miss Clairol - 40D Topaz Miss Clairol - 26D Winter Wheat Logics Gold - lOG Lightest Blonde 111:

Creme Toner - 301D White Beige Logics Blue - lOB Lightest Blonde Creme Toner - 323D X-Lite Platinum Miss Clairol - 30D Flaxea Blonde Logics Violet - lOV Lightest Hlande Logics Gold - 12G Ultra Lt. Blonde SUBSTITUTE SHEET (RULE 26) WO 96/41139 - 3 $ _ -- PCT/IS96/00731 114:

Miss Clairol - 12G Blondest Blonde Jazzing - 20 Bold Gold Logics Violet - lOV Lightest Blonde Logics Gold - 12G Ultra Lt Blonde 131:

Beautiful Reds - 175W
Wine Brown Beautiful Hrights - 17W Rosewood Brown Beautiful Hrights - 40W Amethyst 134:

Beautiful Reds - 14W Cedar Red Brown Miss Clairol - 33R Flame Miss Clairol - 45R Sparkling sherry Beautiful Brights - 38W Ruby Logics Red Orange - 4R0 Deep Bright Miss Clairol - 44R Coppertone Beautiful Reds - 17W Rosewood Brown 141:

Logics Red Violet - 3RV Medium Logics Red Violet - 4RV Light 144:

Logics Red Violet - 4RV Light Miss Clairol - 64R Red Oak 151:

Miss Clairol - 68R Berrywood Miss Clairol - 70R Plum Brown Logics Red Violet - 2RV Deep 164:

Logics Red Orange - lORO
Ltst Bright Logics Red Orange - 8R0 Light Bright Miss Clairol - 29R Honey Red Miss Clairol - 43R Sun Bronze Miss Clairol - 72R Sunberry Beautiful Reds - 91W Copper Red Jazzing - 40 Red Hot Beautiful Brights - 34W Spiced Topaz Beautiful Brights - 32W Amber Jazzing - 30 Spiced Cognac Logics Red Orange - 6R0 Med Bright Miss Clairol - 31R Sunny Auburn Miss Clairol - 73R-G
Apricot Glaze SUBSTITUTE SHEET (RULE 26) L'OREAL FILES
011:

Maj irel - Ml Black Crescendo - 1 Black Diacolor - Darkest Brown Diacolor - pl~

021:

Crescendo - 3 Darkest Brown Majirel - M3 Darkest Brown Majirel - M5.12 Medium Ash Iridescent Hrown Majirel - M4 Dark Brown 024:
~

- Dark Brown Diacolor Diacolor - Medium Natural Ash Hrown 031:

Crescendo ~ 4 Dark Brown -Crescendo - 5.1 Ash Brown Crescendo - 5 Brown Diacolor - Medium Brown Majirel - M6.12 Light Ash Iridescent Hrown Majirel - M6.1 Light Ash Hrown Majirel - M5.1 Ash Brown Majirel - M5 Brown 034:

Diacolor - Light Brown Diacolor - Light Natural Ash Blonde Majirel - M5 Hrown 041:

Crescendo - 5 Brown Majirel - 6.2 Light Iridescent Brown Majirel - M4.51 Ash Mahogany Brown Crescendo - 6 Light Brown Crescendo - 6_01 Light Natural Ash Brown Crescendo - 6.12 Light Ash Iridescent Brown Majirel - M6.23 Light Iridescent Golden Brown Majirel - M5.15 Mahogany Ash Light Brown Crescendo - 5.3 Golden Hrown 044:

Diacolor - Dark Blonde Majirel - M5.3 Golden Brown Majirel - M7.01 Dark Natural Ash Blonde Crescendo - 6.52 Lt Mahogany Irid Hrown Majirel - M6 Light Brown Majirel - M7_1 Dark Ash Blonde Majirel - M6.01 Light Natural Amber Brown SUBSTITUTE SHEET (RULE 26) WO 96/41139 - 4 p , PCT/IB96/00731 Majirel - M6.23 Light Iridescent Golden Brown Majirel - M5.15 Mahogany Ash Light Brown Crescendo - 5.3 Golden Hro~rn 051:
Majirel - M7.23 Dark Iridescent Golden Blonde Crescendo - 7.01 Dark Natural Ash Blonde Crescendo - 7.1 Dark Ash Blonde Diacolor - Natural Ash 054:

Majirel - Color Mixer Dark Ash Crescendo - 8.31 Golden Ash Blonde Crescendo - 7.31 Dk Golden Ash Blonde Majirel - M6.52 Light Mahogany Irid Brown Majirel - M7 Dark Blonde Crescendo - 7 Dark Blonde Crescendo - 8.52 Mahogany Irid Blonde Crescendo - 8.42 Copper Irid Blonde 061:

Majirel - Color Mixer Light Ash Majirel - M9.01 Natural Ash Blonde Crescendo - 8.13 Ash Beige Blonde Crescendo - 8.01 Natural Ash Blonde Crescendo - 10.1 Very Light Ash Blonde Crescendo - 10.01 Very Light Natural Blonde Crescendo - 9.1 Light Ash Blonde Diacolor - Dark Natural Ash Blonde Crescendo - 9.12 Light Ash Iridescent Blonde Crescendo - 9.13 Light Ash Beige Blonde 064:

Majirel - M7.3 Dark Golden Blonde Majirel - M8.3 Golden Blonde Majirel - M8 Blonde 071:

Majirel - M9.12 Light Ash Iridescent Blonde Crescendo - 9.01 Lt Natural Ash Blonde Majirel - Color Mixer Light Ash Majirel - M8.1 Ash Blonde Crescendo - 8 Blonde 074:

Crescendo - 9.04 Lt Natural Copper Blonde Crescendo - 8.3 Golden Blonde Majirel - M8.1 Ash Blonde Crescendo - 8 Blonde SUBSTITUTE SHEET (RULE 2fi) 081:

Crescendo - 10.1 Very Light Ash Blonde Crescendo - 10.01 Very Light Natural Blonde Crescendo - 9.1 Light Ash Blonde Crescendo - 9.12 Light Ash Iridescent Blonde Crescendo - 9.13 Light Ash Beige Blonde 084:

Crescendo - 9.31 Lt Golden Ash Blonde Crescendo - 9 Light Blonde Crescendo - 9.12 Lt Ash Irid Blonde Crescendo - 9.13 Lt Ash Beige Blonde 091:

Majirel - M10.1 Very Lt Ash Blonde Crescendo - P10A Pearl Ash Majirel - M9.01 Lt Natural Ash Blonde Crescendo - 10.21 Very Light Iridescent Ash Blonde Diacolor - Light Beige Majirel - M10.01 Very Light Natural Ash Blonde Crescendo - P10A Shimmer Beige Diacolor - Light Ash Blonde Crescendo - 10 Very Light Blonde 094:

Crescendo - 9.3 Light Golden Blonde Majirel - M9 Light Blonde Majirel - M9.3 Light Golden Blonde Majiblond - 901X Extra Lt Ash Blonde Diacolor - Light Beige Majirel - M10.01 Very Light Natural Ash Blonde Crescendo - P10A Shimmer Beige Diacolor - Light Ash Blonde Crescendo - 10 Very Light Blonde 101:

Majiblond - 901 Light Light Natural Ash Blonde Majiblond - Lightest Light Ash Irid Blonde 104:

Majirel - M10 Very Light Blonde Majirel - M9.13 Lt Ash Beige Blonde Majiblond - 900 Lt Lt Natural Blonde Majiblond - 911 Lightest Light Int Ash Blonde 111:

Crescendo - P10E Iridescent Ivory Discolor - Clear S! !RSTlTUTE SHEET (RULE 26) WO 96/41139 - 42 _ PCT/IB96/00731 114:

Majiblond - 913X Lightest Lt Natural Beige Blonde Majiblond - 900X Extra Light Platinum Blonde Discolor - Clear 131:

Majirel - M6.6 Light Auburn Brown 134:

Majirel - M6.64 Light Auburn Copper Brown Discolor - Copper Majirel - M6.6 Light Auburn Brown Crescendo - 7.43 Dk Copper Golden Blonde Diacolo= - Golden Copper Crescendo - 6.46 Light Copper Auburn Brown 141:

Discolor - Red Mahogany Discolor - Dark Auburn Majirel - M7.62 Dark Auburn Iridescent Blonde Discolor - Auburn Discolor - Light Auburn 144:

Crescendo - 4.56 Dark Mahogany Auburn Brown Majirel - M7.62 Dark Auburn Irid Blonde Discolor - Auburn Discolor - Light Auburn Crescendo - 4.45 Dark Copper Mahogany Brown 151:
Majirel - M5.62 Auburn Iridescent Brown Majirel - M5.20 Int Iridescent Brown 164:

Majirel - M8.34 Golden Copper Blonde Majirel - M9.04 Light Natural Copper Blonde Majirel - M7.4 Dark Copper Blonde Majiblond - 903 Light Light Natural Golden Blonde Majirel - M7.40 Dark Int Copper Blonde Discolor - Gold Crescendo - 7.44 Dark Tp Copper Blonde Crescendo - 8.34 Golden Copper Blonde Crescendo - 4.56 Dark Mahogany Auburn Blonde SUBSTITUTE SHEET (RULE 26) WO 96/41139 _ 43 _ PCT/IB96/00731 TABLE V Appendix E

LIST OF NATURAL HAIR COLOR OPTIONS

FOR GREY HAIR PROGRAM

1. If Grey is present in Black, Dark Brown, Medium Brown or Brown Hair, please press #1.

2. If Grey is present in Light Brown/Darkest Blonde Hair, please press #2.

3. If Grey is present in Dark Red, Medium Red or Medium Light Red Hair, please press #3.

4. If Grey is present in Light Red or Red Blonde Hair, please press #4.

5. If Grey is present in Medium to Medium Dark Blonde Hair, please press #5.

6. If Grey is present in Light Blonde Hair, please press #6.

SUBSTITUTE SHEET (,RULE 26) Appendix F
TABLE vI
CALCULATION OF PERCENTAGE OF GREY HAIR
For Color Categories in Table I having grey , (e. g. 61-68):
The "L" value of the natural hair (Site #1) and the value of the "L" from another site. If the other site's "L" value is from 1 to 2 points higher than the "L" of the natural hair, the category is: 40% to 60% Grey Hair.
If the other site's "L" value is above 2 points higher than the "L" of the natural hair, the category is: 70% to 90% Grey Hair.
If the "L" value is under 1 point increase from the most natural site (Site #1), then the category is: Low percentage of Grey Hair.
For Color Categories containing grey, not listed in Table I:
LIGHT BROWN/DARKEST BLOND HAIR:
If "L" - +4 to +10 and hair is 40% - 60% Grey "a" - -10.00 to -.80 If "L" - +10 or higher and hair is 70% - 90% Grey "a" - -10.00 to .80 DARK RED. MEDIUM RED OR MEDIUM LIGHT RED HAIR:
If "L" - +6 to +11 and hair is 40% - 60% Grey "a" - -10.00 t0 .80 If "L" - +11 or higher and hair is 70% - 90% Grey "a" _ -10.00 to .80 LIG~iT RED OR RED BLONDE HAIR:
If "L" - +5 to +7 and hair is 40% - 60% Grey "a" - -10.00 t0 .80 If "L" - +7 or higher and hair is 70% - 90% Grey "a" - -10.00 to .80 SUBSTITUTE SHEET (RULE 26) MEDIUM TO MEDIUM DARK BLONDE HAIR:

If "L" _ +2 to +4 hair is 40% 60% Grey -If "L" - +4 or higher hair is 70% 90% Grey -LIGHT ~3LONDE HAITI

If "L" - .25 or less and hair is 40% 60% Grey -"a" - -1.50 to -2.00 If "L" _ .25 or less and hair is 70% - Grey 90%

"a" - -2.00 or higher SUSSTiTUTE SHEET (RULE 26) TABLE vII
Appendix G
CLAIROL PRODUCT RECOMMENDATIONS FOR COOL SRIN
BLACK

Miss Clairol - 82N Dk. Neutral Brown Miss Clairol - 52D Black Azure Logics Violet - 1V Black Miss Clairol - 51D Black Velvet GRAY

Glorious Grays - G07 Glorious, Silver Glorious Grays - G05 Glorious Platinum Glorious Grays - G11 Glorious Smoke Glorious Grays - G09 Glorious Slate DARREST DARR BROWN

Miss Clairol - 57D Coffee Brown Miss Clairol - 48D Sable Brown Logics Violet - 2V Dark Brown DARK BROWN

Logics Neutral - 3N Medium Brown Loving Care - 79 Dark Brown LIGHTEST DARK BROWN

Logics Blue - 3B Medium Brown Miss Clairol - 84N Lt Neutrl Brown Logics Violet - 3V Medium Brown Miss Clairol - 39G Sunset Brown Miss Clairol - 95D-N Nightfall Brown LIGHTEST DARK BROWN COOL/ WARM BORDERLINE SHADES

Miss Clairol - 46D Chestnut Brown Loving Care - 80 Auburn Miss Clairol - 56R Cinnamon Miss Clairol - 37D Iced Brown DARK MEDIUM BROWN

Miss Clairol - 94D-N Twilight Brown Miss Clairol - 86N Dk Neutral Brown Logics Neutral - 4N Light Brown MEDIUM BROWN

Born Blonde Toner - 360 Moonlight Mink Logics Blue - 4B Light Brown Logics Neutral - 5N Lightest Brown Miss Clairol - 36D Moonlit Brown Beautiful Browns - 18D Darkest Brown SUBSTI T UTE SHEET (RULE 26) MEDIUM BROWN COOL/WARM BORDERLINE SHADES
Beautiful Browns - 20D Black Beautiful Browns - 15W Dark Warm Brown Miss Clairol - 32D Moon Haze DARK RED

Miss Clairol - 68R Berrywood Miss Clairol - 70R Plum Brown Logics Red Violet - 2RV Deep MEDIUM RED

Logics Red Violet - 3RV Medium MEDIUM RED COOL/WARM
BORDERLINE SHADE

Logics Red violet - 4RV Light LIGHT RED/LIGHT AUBURN

Beautiful Reds - 17W Rosewood Brown LIGHT RED/LIGHT AUBURN COOL/WARM BORDERLINE SHADE

Beautiful Brights - 17W Rosewood Brown DARK AUBURN COOL/WARM
BORDERLINE SHADES

Beautiful Brights - 40W Amethyst Miss Clairol - 64R Red Oak LIGHTEST LIGHT BLONDE

Creme Toner - 301D White Beige Logics Blue - 10B Lightest Blonde Creme Toner - 323D X-Lite Platinum Miss Clairol - 30D Flaxen Blonde LIGHTEST LIGHT BLONDE
COOL/WARM BORDERLINE
SHADES

Logics Violet - lOV Lightest Blonde Logics Gold - 12G Ultra Lt. Blonde LIGHT BLONDE

Logics Violet - 12V Ultra Lt Blonde Miss Clairol - 20D Arctic Blonde Creme Toner - 302D Platinum Beige Creme Toner - 319G Ivory Chiffon Creme Toner - 315G X-Lite B

Logics Blue - 12B Ultra Lt Blonde Logics Violet - 8V Light Blonde Miss Clairol - 91D-N Starlit Blonde Creme Toner - 314G X-Lite A

LIGHT BLONDE COOL/WARM BORDERLINE SHADE

Creme Toner - 332R Strawberry Blonde Miss Clairol - 40D Topaz Miss Clairol - 26D Winter Wheat Logics Gold - lOG Lightest Blonde SUBSTITUTE SHEET (RULE 26) DARKEST LIGHT BLONDE

Jazzing - 10 Clear Hairglosser Logics Blue - SB Light Blonde Horn Blonde Toner - 351 Silent Snow Creme Toner - 310D Champgn Toast LIGHTEST MEDIUM BLONDE

Born Blonde Toner - 352 Precious Platnm Born Blonde Toner - 353 Sweet Silver Born Blonde Toner - 361 Happy Honey Jazzing - 72 Icicle LIGHTEST MEDIUM BLONDE COOL/WARM BORDERLINE SHADES

Creme Toner - 311D 9A Towhead Creme Toner - 309D Champgn Parfait Creme Toner - 331G Tan Pearl Miss Clairol - 92D-N Daybreak Blonde Logics Violet - 7V Medium Blonde MEDIUM BLONDE

Born Blonde Toner - 356 Innocent Ivory Logics Hlue - 6V Dark Blonde Born Blonde Toner - 358 Winsome Wheat Beautiful Browns - 8D Light Ash Brown Born Blonde Toner - 355 Blissfully Blonde Jazzing - 76 Sandstorm Born Blonde Toner - 359 Fair Fawn Miss Clairol - 93D-N Dusk Blonde Miss Clairol - 34D Hazy Mist MEDIUM BLONDE COOL/WARM BORDERLINE SHADES

Miss Clairol - 89N Lt Neutral Blnde Miss Clairol - 34D Hazy Mist Creme Toner - 342D True Brown Blnde Creme Toner - lOB Sandy Blonde Creme Toner - 341D True Tan Blonde DARKEST MEDIUM BLONDE LIGHTEST BROWN ' &

Beautiful Browns - I1W Med Golden Brown Jazzing - 78 Creme Soda Born Blonde Toner - 354 Baby Blush Creme Toner - 343D True Ash Blonde Born Blonde Toner - 357 Beautiful Beige Beautiful Browns - 131D Med Smokey Brown DARKEST MEDIUM BLONDE LIGHTEST BROWN COOL/WARM
&

BORDERLINE SHADES

Miss Clairol - 28D Autumn Mist Miss Clairol - 25G Sunblonde Brown Beautiful Browns - 13W Med Warzn Brown Miss Clairol - 74G Sunwashed Blonde Beautiful Browns - 121W Med Honey Brown ~U9STITUTE SHEET (RULE 26) BLACK

Majirel - M1 Black Crescendo - 1 Black Discolor - pl~

BLACK BORDERLINE SHADE

Discolor - Darkest Brown DARKEST DARK BROWN

Crescendo - 3 Darkest Brown Majirel - M3 Darkest Brown Majirel - M5.12 Medium Ash Iridescent Brown Maj~rel - M4 Dark Brown MEDIUM DARK BROWN

Crescendo - 4 Dark Brown Crescendo - 5.1 Ash Brown Crescendo - 5 Brown Discolor - Medium Brown Majirel ~ - M6.12 Light Ash Iridescent Brown Majirel - M6.1 Light Ash Brown Majirel - M5.1 Ash Brown MEDIUM DARK BROWN COOL/WARM BORDERLINE SHADE

Majirel - M5 Brown LIGHTEST DARK BROWN

Crescendo - 5 Brown Majirel - 6.2 Light Iridescent Brown Majirel - M4.51 Ash Mahogany Brown Crescendo - 6 Light Brown Crescendo - 6.01 Light Natural Ash Brown Crescendo - 6.12 Light Ash Iridescent Brown LIGHTEST DARK BROWN COOL/WARM
BORDERLINE SHADE

Majirel - M6.23 Light Iridescent Golden Brown Majirel - M5.15 Mahogany Ash Light Brown Crescendo - 5.3 Golden Brown MEDIUM BROWN

Majirel - M7.23 Dark Iridescent Golden Blonde Crescendo - 7.01 Dark Natural Ash Blonde Crescendo - 7.1 Dark Ash Blonde Discolor - Natural Ash SUBSTITUTE SHEET (RULE 26) DARK RED

Majirel - M5.62 Auburn Iridescent Brown Majirel - M5.20 Int Iridescent Brown ' MEDIUM RED

Discolor - Red Mahogany Discolor - Dark Auburn MEDIUM RED COOL/WARM BORDERLINE SHADE

Majirel - M7.62 Dark Auburn Iridescent Blonde Discolor - Auburn Discolor - Light Auburn .

LIGHT RED COOL/WARM B ORDERLINE SHADE

Majirel - M6.6 Light Auburn Brown LIGHTEST LIGHT BLONDE

Crescendo - P10E Iridescent Ivory LIGHTEST LIGHT BLONDE COOL/WARM BORDERLINE SHADE

Discolor - Clear MEDIUM LIGHT BLONDE

Majiblond - 901 Light Light Natural Ash Blonde Majiblond - Lightest Light Ash Irid Blonde DARKEST LIGHT BLONDE

Majirel - M10.1 Very Lt Ash Blonde Crescendo - P10A Pear Ash Majirel - M9.01 Lt Natural Ash Blonde Crescendo - 10.21 Very Light Iridescent Ash Blonde DARKEST LIGHT BLONDE COOL/WARM BORDERLINE SHADE

Discolor - Light Beige Majirel - M10.01 Very Light Natural Ash Blonde Crescendo - P10A Shinuner Beige Discolor - Light Ash Blonde Crescendo - 10 Very Light Blonde LIGHTEST MEDIUM BLONDE

Crescendo - 10.1 Very Light Ash Blonde Crescendo - 10.01 Very Light Natural Blonde Crescendo - 9.1 Light Ash Blonde SUBSTITUTE SHEET (RULE 26) WO 96/41139 - - 51, PCT/IS96/00731 LIGHTEST MEDIUM BLONDE
COOL/WARM BORDERLINE
SHADE

Crescendo - 9.12 Light Ash Iridescent Blonde Crescendo - 9.13 Light Ash Beige Blonde MEDIUM BLONDE

Majirel - M9.12 Light Ash Iridescent Blonde Crescendo - 9.01 Lt Natural Ash Blonde Majirel - Color Mixer Light Ash MEDIUM BLONDE COOL/WARM BORDERLINE SHADE

Majirel - M8.1 Ash Blonde Crescendo - 8 Blonde DARKEST MEDIUM BLONDE

Majirel - Color Mixer Light Ash Majirel - M9.01 Natural Ash Blonde Crescendo - 8.13 Ash Beige Blonde Crescendo - 8.01 Natural Ash Blonde Discolor - Dark Natural Ash Blonde REDDISH BLONDE

Crescendo - 4.56 Dark Mahogany Auburn Blonde S~ ~3STITUTE SHEET (RULE 26) CLAIROL PRODUCT RECOMMENDATIONS FOR WARM SKIN
DARK BROWN
Logics Gold - 3G Medium Brown BROWN WITH AUBURN TONES
Miss Clairol - 75R Sunsparked Brown Miss Clairol - 47R Red Ginger LIGHTEST DARK BROWN
Logics Gold - 4G Light Brown LIGHTEST-DARK BROWN WARM/COOL BORDERLINE SHADES
Loving Care - 83 Natural Black Miss Clairol - 46D Chestnut Brown Loving Care - 80 Auburn Miss Clairol - 56R Cinnamon Loving Care - 82 Dark Warm Brown Miss Clairol - 37D Iced Brown DARK MEDIUM BROWN
Loving Care - 77 Medium Ash Brown MEDIUM BROWN
Loving Care - 76 Lt Golden Brown Loving Care - 78 Med Golden Brown Creme Toner - 346D True Taupe Beige Logics Gold - 6G Dark Blonde Loving Care - 75 Light Ash Brown Logics Violet - 6V Dark Blonde Logics Violet - 4V Light Brown Loving Care - 74 Reddish Blonde Miss Clairol - 42D Moongold Miss Clairol - 35G Sunlit Brown Beautiful Browns - 12D Medium Ash Brown Creme Toner - 345D True Camel Beige Logics violet - 5V Lightest Brown Loving Care - 775 Smokey Ash Brown MEDIUM BROWN WARM/COOL BORDERLINE SHADES

Beautiful Browns - 20D Black Beautiful Browns - 15W Dark Warn Brown Miss Clairol - 32D Moon Haze MEDIUM RED WARM/COOL BORDERLINE SHADE
Logics Red Violet - 4RV Light SC.I3STlTUTE SHEET (RULE 26) LIGHT RED/LIGHT AUBURN
Miss Clairol - 33R Flame Miss Clairol - 45R Sparkling Sherry Beautiful Hrights - 38W Ruby Logics Red Orange - 4R0 Deep Bright Miss Clairol - 44R Coppertone Beautiful Reds - 14W Cedar Red Brown LIGHT RED/LIGHT AUBURN WARM/COOL BORDERLINE SHADE
Beautiful Reds - 17W Rosewood Brown DARK AUBURN WARM/COOL BORDERLINE SHADE
Beautiful Brights - 40W Amethyst Miss Clairol - 64R Red Oak LIGHTEST LIGHT BLONDE
Miss Clairol - 12G Blondest Blonde Jazzing - 20 Bold Gold LIGHTEST LIGHT BLONDE WARM/COOL BORDERLINE SHADES
Logics Violet - lOV Lightest Blonde Logics Gold - 12G Ultra Lt Blonde LIGHT BLONDE
Creme Toner - 340G True Golden Blonde LIGHT BLONDE WARM/COOL BORDERLINE SHADES
Creme Toner - 332R Strawberry Blnde Miss Clairol - 40D Topaz Miss Clairol - 26D Winter Wheat Logics Gold - lOG Lightest Blonde DARKEST LIGHT BLONDE
Beautiful Blondes - 2W Lt Golden Blonde LIGHTEST MEDIUM BLONDE

Beautiful Blondes - 4W Med Golden Blonde Creme Toner - 307D Champagne Ice Logics Gold - 8G Light Blonde Loving Care - 72 Golden Blonde Beautiful Brights - 30W 14k Gold Miss Clairol - 27G Spring Honey Beautiful Blondes - 5D Light Ash Blonde Creme Toner - 303G Champgn Beige LIGHTEST MEDIUM BLONDE WARM/COOL BORDERLINE SHADES

Creme Toner - 311D 9A Towhead Creme Toner - 309D Champgn Parfait Creme Toner - 331G Tan Pearl Logics Violet - 7V Medium Blonde Miss Clairol - 92DN Daybreak Blonde SUBSTITUTE SH EET (RULE 26) LIGHTEST MEDIUM BLONDE W/REDDISH TONES
Miss Clairol - 71R-G Sunrise Gold MEDIUM BLONDE

Beautiful Blondes - 6D Blonde Brown Miss Clairol - 41G Golden Apricot Beautiful Reds - 9W Lt Reddish Brown Loving Care - 73 Ash Blonde Creme Toner - 344R True Tawny Beige MEDIUM BLONDE WARM/COOL BORDERLINE SHADES

Miss Clairol - 88N Lt. Neutral Blnde Miss Clairol - 34D Hazy Mist Creme Toner - 342D True Brawn Blnd Creme Toner - lOH Sandy Blonde Creme Toner - 341D True Tan Blonde DARKEST MEDIUM BLONDE LIGHTEST BROWN
&

Beautiful Browns - 10W Bronzed Brown DARKEST MEDIUM BLONDE LIGHTEST BROWN
&

WARM/COOL BORDERLINE SHADES

Miss Clairol - 28D Autumn Mist Miss Clairol - 25G Sunblonde Brown Beautiful Browns - 13W Med Warm Brown Miss Clairol - 74G Sunwashed Blonde Beautiful Browns - 121W Med Honey Brown Beautiful Browns - 131D Med Smokey Brown REDDISH BLONDE

Logics Red Orange - 10R0 Ltst Bright Logi.cs Red Orange - SRO Light Bright Miss Clairol - 29R Honey Red Miss Clairol - 43R Sun Bronze Miss Clairol - 72R Sunberry Beautiful Reds - 91W Copper Red Jazzing - 40 Red Hot Beautiful Hrights - 34W Spiced Topaz Beautiful Brights - 32W Amber Jazzing - 30 Spiced Cognac Logics Red Orange - 6R0 Med Bright Miss Clairol - 31R Sunny Auburn Miss Clairol - '73R-G Apricot Glaze BLACK WARM/COOL BORDERLINE
SHADE

Diacolor - Darkest Brown DARKEST DARK BROWN

Diacolor - Dark Brown Diacolor - Medium Natural Ash Brown SUBSTITUTE SHEET (RULE 26) WO 96/41139 - 5 5 , PCT/IB96/00731 MEDIUM DARK BROWN

Discolor - Light Brown Discolor - Light Natural Ash Blonde MEDIUM DARK BROWN WARM/COOL BORDERLINE SHADE

Majirel - M5 Brown LIGHTEST DARK BROWN

Discolor - Dark Blonde Majirel - M7.01 Dark Natural Ash Blonde Crescendo - 6.52 Light Mahogany Irid Brown Majirel - M6 Light Brown ~

Majirel - Brown M5.3 Golden Majirel - M7.1 Dark Ash Blonde Majirel - M6.01 Light Natural Amber Brown LIGHTEST DARK BROWN WARM/COOL
BORDERLINE SHADE

Majirel - M6.23 Light Iridescent Golden Brown Majirel - M5.15 Mahogany Ash Light Brown ~ Crescendo - 5.3 Golden Brown MEDIUM BROWN

Crescendo - 8.31 Golden Ash Blonde Crescendo - 7.31 Dk Golden Ash Blonde Majirel - M6.52 Light Mahogany Irid Brown Majirel - M7 Dark Blonde Crescendo - 7 Dark Blonde Crescendo - 8.52 Mahogany Irid Blonde Crescendo - 8.42 Copper Irid Blonde Majirel - Color Mixer Dark Ash MEDIUM RED

Crescendo - 4.56 Dark Mahogany Auburn Brown MEDIUM RED WARM/COOL BORDERLINE
SHADE

Majirel - M7.62 Dark Auburn Irid Blonde Discolor - Auburn Discolor - Light Auburn LIGHT RED
Majirel - M6.64 Light Auburn Copper Brown Discolor - Copper SUBSTITUTE SHEET (RULE 26) WO 96/41139 _ 56 _ PCT/IB96/00731 LIGHT RED WARM/COOL BORDERLINE SHADE
Majirel - M6.6 Light Auburn Brown DARK AUBURN
Crescendo - 4.45 Dark Copper Mahogany Brown LIGHT AUBURN
Crescendo - 7.43 Dk Copper Golden Blonde Diacolor - Golden Copper Crescendo - 6.46 Light Copper Auburn Brown LIGHTEST LIGHT BLONDE
Majiblond - 913X Lightest Lt Natural Beige Blonde Majiblond - 900X Extra Light Platinum Blonde LIGHTEST LIGHT BLONDE WARM/COOL BORDERLINE SHADE

Diacolor - Clear MEDIUM LIGHT BLONDE

Majirel - M10 Very Light Blonde Majirel - M9.13 Lt Ash Beige Blonde Majiblond - 900 Lt Lt Natural Blonde Majiblond - 911 Lightest Light Int Ash Blonde DARKEST LIGHT BLONDE

Crescendo - 9.3 Light Golden Blonde Majirel - M9 Light Blonde Majirel - M9.3 Light Golden Blonde Majiblond - 901X Extra Lt Ash Blonde DARKEST LIGHT BLONDE WARM/COOL BORDERLINE SHADE

Diacolor - Light Beige Majirel - M10.01 Very Light Natural Ash Blonde Crescendo - P10A Shiuuner Beige Diacolor - Light Ash Blonde Crescendo - 10 Very Light Blonde LIGHTEST MEDIUM BLONDE

Crescendo - 9.31 Lt Golden Ash Blonde Crescendo - 9 Light Blonde LIGHTEST MEDIUM BLONDE
WARM/COOL BORDERLINE
SHADE

Crescendo - 9_12 Lt Ash Irid Blonde Crescendo - 9.13 Lt Ash Beige Blonde ' SUBSTITUTE SHEET (RULE 2fi) WO 96/41139 _ 57 _ PCT/IB96/00731 MEDIUM BLONDE

Crescendo - 9.04 Lt Natural Copper Blonde Crescendo - 8.3 Golden Blonde MEDIUM BLONDE WARM/COOL BORDERLINE SHADE

Majirel - M8.1 Ash Blonde Crescendo - 8 Blonde DARKEST MEDIUM BLONDE

Majirel - M7.3 Dark Golden Blonde Majirel - M8.3 Golden Blonde Majirel - M8.13 Ash Beige Blonde Majirel - M8 Blonde REDDISH BLONDE

Majirel - M8.34 Golden Copper Blonde Majirel - M9.04 Light Natural Copper B londe Majirel - M7.4 Dark Copper Blonde Majiblond - 903 Light Light Natural Golden Blonde Majirel - M7.40 Dark Int Copper Blonde Discolor - Gold Crescendo - 7.44 Dark Tp Copper Blonde SUBSTITUTE SHEET (RULE 26)

Claims (35)

THE EMBODIMENTS OF THE INVENTION IN WHICH AN EXCLUSIVE
PROPERTY OR PRIVILEGE IS CLAIMED ARE DEFINED AS FOLLOWS:

1. A process for analyzing the hair color of a subject, said process being characterized by the steps of:
(a) measuring with a measuring instrument a value of a first color factor in the coloration of said subject's hair, said first color factor being a measure of lightness of the coloration of said subject's hair: and (b) measuring with a measuring instrument a value of at least one further color factor in the coloration of said subject's hair, wherein at least one of the values measured in steps (a) and (b) correlates to a measure of preestablished ranges of values of said color factor in hair coloration.

2. The process according to claim 1, wherein step (b) further comprises providing an indicator having a plurality of hair color classifications defining ranges of said color factors, further characterized by the step of:
(c) comparing the measured values of said first and further color factors in the coloration of said subject's hair to said ranges of said color factors of said indicator, to indicate a classification of the hair color of said subject.

3. The process according to claim 1, wherein at least one of steps (a) and (b) comprises arriving at the value of said first color factor or said at least one further color factor that correlates to a measure of preestablished ranges of hair coloration in subjects having hair colorations of substantially varying degrees of lightness or darkness.

4. The process according to claim 1, 2 or 3, wherein at least one of steps (a) and (b) comprises arriving at the value of said first color factor or said at least one further color factor that correlates to a measure of preestablished ranges of hair coloration having established laboratory utility.

5. The process according to any one of claims 1 to 4, further characterized by the step of comparing the measured values of said first color factor and said at least one further color factor with a preestablished range of values of said color factors, to determine where within said range the measured values of said color factors lie.

6. A process for analyzing the hair color of a subject, said process being characterized by the steps of:
(a) compiling a group of lightness measure color factor value ranges in the hair color of subjects other than said subject: and (b) associating with each lightness measure color factor value range a value of at least one further color factor for use in comparison with a measurement of the value of that color factor in the hair color of a subject having a lightness measure color factor value in said range, and the relationship between the lightness measure and the further color factor value ranges being substantially equivalent to:

CATEGORY NAME L a b Min Max Min Max Min Max Black 0.00 14.00 -10.00 3.00 -10.00 5.00 Darkest Dark Brown 14.00 16.00 -10.00 ~3.00 -10.00 ~ 1.00 Darkest Dark Brown 14.00 16.00 -10.00 ~3.00 1.00 1.15 Darkest Dark Brown 14.00 16.00 -10.00 3.00 1.15 1.25 Darkest Dark Brown 14.00 16.00 -10.00 3.00 1.25 3.00 Darker Dark Brown 16.00 19.00 -10.00 3.00 -10.00 2.70 Darker Dark Brown 16.00 19.00 -10.00 3.00 2.70 2.95 Darker Dark Brown 16.00 19.00 -10.00 3.00 2.95 3.20 Darker Dark Brown 16.00 19.00 -10.00 3.00 3.20 10.00 Darker Dark Brown 16.00 19.00 2.00 3.00 -10.00 2.70 (Cool Auburn Tones) Darker Dark Brown 16.00 19 00 2.00 3.00 3.20 10.00 (Warm Auburn Tones) Brown 19.00 22.00 0.00 6.00 -10.00 2.95 Brown 19.00 22.00 0.00 6.00 2.95 3.20 Brown 19.00 22.00 0.00 6.00 3.20 3.45 Brown 19.00 22.00 0.00 6.00 3.45 10.00 Brown 19.00 22.00 3.50 6.00 3.45 10.00 (Warm Auburn Tones) Brown 19.00 22.00 3.50 6.00 -10.00 3.45 (Cool Auburn Tones) Medium Brown 22.00 27.00 1.00 6.00 -10.00 3.75 Medium Brown 22.00 27.00 1.00 6.00 3.75 4.00 Golden Med. Brown 22.00 27.00 1.00 6.00 4.00 4.25 Golden Med. Brown 22.00 27.00 1.00 6.00 4.25 10.00 Medium Brown 22.00 27.00. 3.50 6.00 4.25 10.00 (Warm Auburn Tones) Medium Brown 22.00 27.00 3.50 6.00 -10.00 4.25 (Cool Auburn Tones) Darkest Med. Blonde 27.00 28.00 1.80 6.00 -5.00 6.00 Darkest Med. Blonde 27.00 28.00 1.80 5.00 6.00 6.50 Darkest Med. Blonde 27.00 28.00 5.00 6.00 6.00 6.50 Darkest Med. Blonde 27.00 28.00 1.80 6.00 6.50 15.00 Medium Blonde 28.00 31.00 1.80 6.00 -5.00 6.00 Medium Blonde 28.00 31.00 1.80 5.00 6.00 6.50 Med. Golden Blonde 28.00 31.00 5.00 6.00 6.00 6.50 Med. Golden Blonde 28.00 31.00 1.80 6.00 6.50 15.00 CATEGORY NAME L a b Min Max Min Max Min Max Lightest Med. 31.00 33.00 1.80 6.00 -5.00 6.00 Blonde Lightest Med. 31.00 33.00 1.80 5.00 6.00 6.50 Blonde Lightest Med. 31.00 33.00 5.00 6.00 6.00 6.50 Blonde Lightest Med. 31.00 33.00 1.80 6.00 6.50 15.00 Blonde Light Blonde 33.00 36.00 1.80 6.00 -5.00 7.00 Light Blonde 33.00 36.00 1.80 5.00 7.00 7.50 Light Blonde 33.00 36.00 5.00 6.00 7.00 7.50 Light Blonde 33.00 36.00 1.80 6.00 7.50 20.00 Lighter Blonde 36.00 40.00 1.80 6.00 -5.00 8.00 Lighter Blonde 36.00 40.00 1.80 5.00 8.00 8.50 Lighter Blonde 36.00 40.00 5.00 6.00 8.00 8.50 Lighter Blonde 36.00 40.00 1.80 6.00 8.50 20.00 Lightest Blonde 40.00 80.00 1.80 7.00 -5.00 9.00 Lightest Blonde 40.00 80.00 1.80 5.00 9.00 10.00 Lightest Blonde 40.00 80.00 5.00 7.00 9.00 10.00 Lightest Blonde 40.00 80.00 1.80 7.00 10.00 30.00 Light Red 22.00 28.00 6.00 30.00 -5.00 3.50 Light Red 22.00 28.00 6.00 30.00 3.50 3.75 Light Red 22.00 28.00 6.00 30.00 3.75 4.00 Light Red 22.00 28.00 6.00 30.00 4.00 30.00 Medium Red 19.00 22.00 6.00 30.00 -10.00 3.50 Medium Red 19.00 22.00 6.00 30.00 3.50 3.75 Med. Golden Red 19.00 22.00 6.00 30.00 3.75 4.00 Med. Golden Red 19.00 22.00 6.00 30.00 4.00 30.00 Dark Red 14.00 19.00 3.00 30.00 -10.00 2.50 Dark Red 14.00 19.00 3.00 30.00 2.50 2.75 Dark Red 1.00 19.00 3.00 30.00 2.75 3.00 Dark Red 14.00 19.00 3.00 30.00 3.00 30.00 Red Blonde 27.00 40.00 6.00 30.00 6.00 30.00 Red Blonde 40.00 80.00 7.00 30.00 6.00 30.00 CATEGORY NAME L a b Min Max Min Max Min Max Black/Dk Brown/Med 27.00 50.00 -10.00 1.80 -10.00 3.75 Brown/Brown w/ 70% - 90% Grey Black/Dk Brown/Med 27.00 50.00 -10.00 1.80 3.75 4.00 Brown/Brown w/ 70% - 90% Grey Black/Dk Brown/Med 27.00 50.00 -10.00 1.80 4.00 4.25 Brown/Brown w/ 70% - 90% Grey Black/Dk Brown/Med 17.00 50.00 -10.00 1.80 ~ 4.25 10.00 Brown/Brown w/ 70% - 90% Grey Black/Dk Brown/Med 23.00 27.00 -10.00 1.00 -10.00 3.75 Brown/Brown w/ 40% - 60% Grey Black/Dk Brown/Med 23.00 27.00 -10.00 1.00 3.75 4.00 Brown/Brown w/ 40% - 60% Grey Black/Dk Brown/Med 23.00 27.00 -10:00 1.00 4.00 4.35 Brown/Brown w/ 40% - 60% Grey Black/Dk Brown/Med 23.00 27.00 -10.00 1.00 4.25 10.00 Brown/Brown w/ 40% - 60% Grey Grey Hair Light Brown/Darkest Blonde 40% - 60% Grey 4.00 10.00 -10.00 -0.08 70% - 90% Grey 10.00 99.99 -10.00 -0.08 Dark Red. Medium Red or Medium Light Red 40% - 60% Grey 6.00 10.00 -10.00 -0.80 70% - 90% Grey 10.00 99.99 -10.00 -0.80 Light Red or Red Blonde 40% - 60% Grey 5.00 7.00 -10.00 -0.80 70% - 90% Grey 7.00 99.99 -10.00 -0.80 Medium to Medium Dark Blonde 40% - 60% Grey 1:70 4.00 0.00 0.00 70% - 90% Grey 4.00 99.99 0.00 0.00 Light Blonde Hair 40% - 60% Grey -99.99 -0.25 -1.75 -1.25 70% - 90% Grey -99.99 -0.25 -91.99 -1.75 Wherein negative values denote values less than zero.

7. The process according to claim 6, wherein step (a) comprises assembling the group of lightness measure color factor value ranges in machine-readable, tangible form and step (b) comprises associating said further color factor value with each lightness measure color factor value range in said machine-readable, tangible form.

8. The process according to claim 1, wherein step (b) comprises measuring with a measuring instrument the value of a color factor that is dependent on the relative content of opponent colors in the coloration of said subject's hair.

9. The process according to claim 8, wherein step (b) comprises measuring the value of a color factor that is dependent on relative content of red and green in the coloration of said subject's hair.

10. The process according to claim 8, wherein step (b) comprises measuring the value of a color factor that is dependent on relative content of blue and yellow in the coloration of said subject's hair.

11. The process according to any one of claims 2 to 4, wherein step (b) comprises measuring with a measuring instrument the value of a color factor that is dependent on relative content of blue and yellow in the coloration of said subject's hair.

12. The process according to any one of claims 2 to 4, wherein step (b) comprises measuring with a measuring instrument the value of a color factor that is dependent on relative content of red and green in the coloration of said subject's hair.

13. The process according to claim 2, further characterized by the step of:
(d) providing an indicator table of at least one classification of a hair coloring agent identified with the classification of the hair color of said subject indicated in step (c).

14. The process according to claim 2, wherein step (b) comprises the step of providing said indicator in computer memory and step (c) comprises comparing electronically the measured values of said plurality of color factors in the coloration of said subject's hair to said ranges of color factors indicating at least one hair color classification contained in said memory.

15. The process according to any one of claims 2, 13 or 14, further characterized by the steps of indicating a menu of actions affecting hair color, providing a database of the hair color classifications, menu action items and associated hair coloring agent identifications empirically determined to effect said menu actions, and locating in the database hair coloring agent identifications associated with the selected menu action item and indicated classification of the hair color of said subject.

16. The process according to any one of claims 2, 13 or 14, wherein said indicator and indicator table comprise hair color classifications, hair coloring agent classifications and commercially available products falling within each hair coloring agent classification.

17. The process according to claim 2, further characterized by the steps of identifying at least one of a broad family of hair colors corresponding to values of a plurality of said color factors in the coloration of said subject's hair, said indicator being arranged in at least one division corresponding to said broad family of hair colors;
comparing the plurality of said color factor values to indicate a classification of said subject, including locating the division of the indicator associated with the identified one of a broad family of hair colors and matching the measured color factors in the division.

18. The process according to claim 1 or 6, wherein the color factors are selected from at least two of a lightness color factor, a yellowness color factor and a redness color factor.

19. The process according to claim 1 or 6, wherein the color factors are selected from at least two of a color factor which is substantially that of color factor Hunter L, a color factor which is substantially that of color factor Hunter b and a color factor which is substantially that of color factor Hunter a.

20. The process according to claim 2, wherein said first color factor is a color factor which is substantially that of color factor Hunter L, said at least one further color factor is a color factor which is substantially that of color factor Hunter a, and the classifications are percentages of grey.

21. The process according to claim 2, wherein said first color factor is a color factor which is substantially that of color factor Hunter L, said at least one further color factor is a color factor which is substantially that of color factor Hunter b, and the classifications are percentages of grey.

22. The process according to claim 1 or 2, wherein measuring with a measuring instrument includes measuring each said color factor value at different locations of the hair of said subject.

23. The process according to claim 1 or 2, wherein measuring with a measuring instrument includes making a set of multiple measurements of each said color factor and averaging each set of multiple measurements.

24. The process according to claim 15, wherein said menu of actions affecting hair color is substantially as follows:

MENU OF HAIR COLOR OPTIONS

1. Match Natural Hair Color

2. Make Natural Hair Color Warmer

3. Make Natural Hair Color Cooler

4. Highlight Natural Hair Color

5. Make Natural Hair Color Slightly Darker

6. Make Natural Hair Color Slightly Lighter

7. Make Natural Hair Color Darker

8. Make Natural Hair Color Lighter

9. Make Natural Hair Color Warmer and Slightly Darker

10. Make Natural Hair Color Warmer and Slightly Lighter

11. Make Natural Hair Color Warmer and Darker

12. Make Natural Hair Color Warmer and Lighter

13. Make Natural Hair Color Cooler and Slightly Darker

14. Make Natural Hair Color Cooler and Slightly Lighter

15. Make Natural Hair Color Cooler and Darker

16. Make Natural Hair Color Cooler and Lighter

17. Make Natural Hair Color Warmer with Highlight

18. Make Natural Hair Color Cooler with Highlights

19. Make Tinted Hair Color Warmer

20. Make Tinted Hair Color Cooler

21. Highlight Tinted Hair Color

22. Make Tinted Flair Color Slightly Darker

23. Make Tinted Hair Color Slightly Lighter

24. Make-Tinted Hair Color Darker 25. Make Tinted Hair Color Lighter 26. Make Tinted Hair Color Warmer and Slightly Darker 27. Make Tinted Hair Color Warmer and Slightly Lighter 28. Make Tinted Hair Color Warmer and Darker 29. Make Tinted Hair Color Warmer and Lighter 30. Make Tinted Hair Color Cooler and Slightly Darker 31. Make Tinted Hair Color Cooler and Slightly Lighter 32. Make Tinted Hair Color Cooler and Darker 33. Make Tinted Hair Color Cooler and Lighter 34. Make Tinted Hair Color Warmer with Highlights 35. Make Tinted Hair Color Cooler with Highlights

25. An apparatus for analyzing the hair color of a subject, said apparatus characterized by:
(a) means for measuring with a measuring instrument the values of a first color factor and at least one further color factor in the coloration of said subject's hair, the first color factor being a measure of the lightness of the coloration of said subject's hair.
(b) a memory having a plurality of hair color classifications defining ranges of values of said first and further color factors in hair coloration of subjects other than said subject; and (c) means responsive to said values of the first and further color factors measured by said means for measuring for comparing the values of said first and further color factors in the coloration of said subject's hair to said ranges of values of said color factors of said hair color classifications in memory, to indicate a classification of the hair color of said subject.

26. The apparatus according to claim 25, further characterized by a table in memory of comparisons of a classification of hair coloring agent identifications with said indicated classification of the hair color of said subject.

27. The apparatus according to claim 25, said apparatus being further characterized by:
(d) an indicator for indicating a menu of actions affecting hair color;
(e) memory containing:
(i) a database of the hair color classifications, (ii) a menu of action items, and (iii) associated hair coloring agent identifications empirically determined to effect said menu action items; and (f) means for locating in the database hair coloring agents associated with a selected menu action item and said classification of the hair of said subject as determined by said means for comparing.

28. The apparatus according to claim 25, wherein the color factors are selected from at least two of a lightness color factor, a yellowness color factor and a redness color factor.

29. The apparatus according to claim 25, wherein the color factors are a lightness color factor and a redness color factor, and the hair color classifications are percentages of grey.

30. The apparatus according to claim 25, wherein the color factors are a lightness color factor and a yellowness color factor, and the hair color classifications are percentages of grey.

31. The apparatus according to claim 25, wherein the color factors are selected from at least two of a color factor having a value which is substantially that of color factor Hunter L, a color factor having a value which is substantially that of color factor Hunter b, and a color factor having a value which is substantially that of color factor Hunter a.

32. The apparatus according to claim 25, wherein the color factors are a color factor having a value which is substantially that of color factor Hunter L and a color factor having a value which is substantially that of color factor Hunter a, and the hair color classifications are percentages of grey.

33. The apparatus according to claim 25, wherein the color factors are a color factor having a value which is substantially that of color factor Hunter L and a color factor having a value which is substantially that of color factor Hunter b, and the hair color classifications are percentages of grey.

34. The apparatus according to claim 25, further characterized by means for identifying at least one of a broad family of hair colors corresponding to values of a plurality of said color factors in the coloration of said subject s hair, said classifications in memory being arranged in at least one division corresponding to said at least one broad family of hair colors: and said means responsive to said values for comparing the values of said plurality of color factor values to determine a classification of said subject including means for locating the division of the hair color classifications in memory associated with an identified family of hair colors and matching the measured color factors in the division corresponding to the identified family.

35. The apparatus according to claim 25, further characterized by a display for displaying a menu of action items affecting hair color, a database of the hair color classifications, menu action items and associated hair coloring agent identifications empirically determined to effect said menu actions, and means for locating in the database hair coloring agents associated with a selected menu action item and a determined classification of the hair color of said subject.